An assortment of ranches dot the green summer pastures below as our plane descends into the Sheridan, Wyo., airport. Curt, wearing a cap bearing the words Spear-O-Wigwam, the ranch where I will begin a three-day pack ride into the Bighorn Mountains of the Cloud Peak Wilderness area in Wyoming, greets me with a “Howdy, ma’am.”Photo by Shawn Hamilton
The steep uphill gravel road to the ranch is in rough shape.
“It’s only open from June to October,” Curt says while navigating the large ruts. “Hopefully it will be graded by next week when you head out.”
Passing pine forests and rolling green hills, we arrive at a reservoir reflecting the snowcapped mountains before entering the gates of Spear-O-Wigwam, which sport a 100th anniversary banner on the fence.
Founded in 1923 by Willis Spear, a local rancher, the 17-acre property with seven cabins continues its dude ranch legacy through investors with local ties.
The fire crackles in the lounge next to the dining area, where I enjoy a meal of lasagna and Caesar salad with some of the other other guests, here for day rides or kayaking, canoeing, and fishing. In my quaint riverside cabin, I organize my gear for tomorrow’s pack trip.The rustic lodge allows for dining and relaxing around a crackling fire. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Day 1
A moose, not bothered by my presence, wanders the grounds as I head for breakfast, a smorgasbord of fruit, quiche, pancakes and sausage. Our host, Mark Patterson of Cross Country Equine, introduces me to Gabby and Lydia, who will join me and returning guest Joleen on the pack ride.
As instructed, we arrive at the main corral with our bags where Pence, Claude and Pistol stand quietly as Mark meticulously weighs and loads every piece before placing it in their packs, checking constantly for even distribution.
“It’s key to not having to stop on the trail to fix anything,” he declares.
Mark chooses Canyon, a sturdy draft cross, for me, and two Norwegian Fjord crosses, Princess and Babydoll, for Lydia and Gabby. Joleen is given her favorite horse from last year’s ride, Chester, while Mark leads the pack on Swede (both their mounts are Norwegian Fjords).Photo by Shawn Hamilton
We head out of the corral, crossing the first creek of many, one with a spectacular backdrop of mountains. Green meadows full of colorful wildflowers lead us to an uphill path in the woods. Canyon carefully chooses his way through the narrow, rocky parts.
“Let the horses pick their way, and make sure they have forward momentum, especially on the steep parts,” Mark advises. “It’s harder for them to get their legs in front of them if they slip when going uphill.”The horses carefully pick their way up the steep, rocky hill to Crystal Lake. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
At 9,760 feet, the tree line opens to breathtaking views of Geneva Pass and Geneva Lake before arriving at the camp at Crystal Lake, where rocky cliffs reflect on the water’s surface.
We untack the horses and turn them out for a well-deserved roll and to graze in the fenced-in area surrounding camp. Several teepees, including one for cooking, spot the grounds. Mark unpacks the bags and I change into my bathing suit for a quick dip in the chilly yet refreshing water.Horses are turned out to graze in the fenced area around the Crystal Lake camp, where teepees dot the grounds. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
After a scrumptious steak dinner, I drift off to sleep on the cot in my teepee to the sound of the melting snow cascading over the rocks into the lake.
Day 2
The cliffs glow in the morning light behind the horses grazing at the lake shore.
A full day at camp allows for exploration deeper into the Cloud Peak Wilderness area, an expanse of 295 square miles in the Bighorn Mountain Range, which has been protected by the Wyoming Wilderness act since 1984.
Mark trims branches from fallen trees on the trail that climbs to spectacular views. The Solitude loop takes us to the high country of remote lakes, cascading waterfalls, fast-running streams and snow still lingering in the mountains crevices.
The shore of Cliff Lake across from its jagged rock edges provides a peaceful lunch stop. On the way back to camp, we cool off the horses in the deep water of a small lake, sometimes belly deep. I take advantage of the clear night sky to watch the shooting stars before heading to my teepee for the night.The horses cool off in belly-deep water during the day ride. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Day 3
In the early morning we help take down camp, as it will be the last trip here this season.
“The pasture is pretty much done,” Mark says. “And with any luck, the snow has melted enough to head to Beaver Creek camp for the next pack trip.”
Mark diligently weighs each box and bag before loading up the pack horses.Mark meticulously weighs and loads every piece before placing it in the packs, checking constantly for even distribution. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
With total confidence in Canyon, I’m now relaxed over the steep, rocky terrain and can simply enjoy the views of the Bighorn Mountains against the blue sky. We allow the horses to drink at each of the numerous creek crossings before arriving at the familiar green meadow just before the ranch.
At Spear-O-Wigwam, we have time to untack, say our goodbyes and head into Sheridan for the rodeo’s opening night—I truly feel like a cowgirl now!
To learn more, visit @crosscountryequine on Instagram or go to spearowigwam.com.
This article about a pack ride in Wyoming appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!