The Unicorn Trails ride in the mountainous jungle of Santa Fe, Panama, is one that dreams are made of. Galloping up mountains, swimming with horses, and riding to a waterfall to cool off in are just a few of the highlights.
Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one tops the charts for diverse scenery, unique culture, and local hospitality.
Panama City
My friend, Ali, and I spend a night in Panama City to enjoy a traditional Panamanian meal, including yucca and plantains, in the brightly decorated Sabroso restaurant on the Amador causeway. Colorfully lit buses drive the road beside the park where families walk enjoying the city lights reflecting in the water.
Lunch in El Valle, a town constructed in the middle of an extinct volcano, breaks up our five-hour drive to Santa Fe. We arrive just in time for dinner at Hotel Anachoreo and join our friends, Dawn and Tracy, for homemade fish soup, with fresh herbs from the hotels incredible garden.
Our host, Lizzie, a fit-looking young woman originally from Zimbabwe, arrives to introduce herself and let us know the plan for the morning.
“My farm is on the river, which isn’t always passable because of the rain, so the horses will be transported by road—the long way around—to a friend’s farm, where we’ll begin,” she says.
While handing out cushy saddle seat covers and saddle bags, she reminds us to pack our bathing suits and towels.
Meeting the Horses
After a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, crepes and bacon, we hop in Lizzie’s Jeep to a small corral where her helper, Jose, is just finishing tacking up the horses.
Ali is given Pali, a small palomino mare; Dawn is presented with Luca, a tall brown-and-white Paint Horse; and Tracy has a cute blue roan named Chombin.
Jose and Lizzie adjust the stirrups and I mount up on Capitan, a gaited chestnut Criollo. The western saddle is extremely comfortable.
“They are locally made,” Lizzy tells me. Some of the horses are also bitless, which is always a pleasant surprise.
Lizzie leads the way on a stallion named Calypso.
“He hasn’t been ridden in a while,” she tells us. “We’ll see what happens.”
Jose takes up the rear on a mule named Mr. Red, ponying Little Dude, a small gray Criollo gelding. Kids come out to greet us.
Calypso, eager to run uphill, takes the lead on a wonderful gallop up the mountain road. Resting at Cerro Tute, historically known as a rebel hideout, we tie the horses to a fence for a snack and enjoy the views of the small town of Santa Fe, population approximately 3,500.
Petroglyphs and Swimming
After crossing the peak, the pine trees turn into cactus plants and the dirt road turns to clay—from forest to desert just like that! We zig-zag through an array of round rocks displaying petroglyphs (see pg. 72). The wind cools us from the hot sun, but it’s so strong that it blows the sun brim off my helmet. Even Ali’s special brim with Velcro and hooks can’t fight it.
We cross a large river, tie the horses to trees and untack them.
“Time for a swim,” Lizzy announces.Lizzie on Calypso and Ali on Pali cool off by taking a dip as the climate goes from forest to desert. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Ali takes Pali right in, deep enough to swim. I hop on Capitan and he is eager to cool off. The current is strong, but the horses plunge through. It’s so much fun I can feel my smile growing from ear to ear the deeper I get. The water is just right—refreshing but not too cold.
Leaving the horses behind for Jose to take home, we head into town for a delightful late lunch at a local restaurant and have some yummy ginger chicken. We stop at a store where I purchase a wide-brim hat for under my helmet, and the others find shoes for swimming.
A vivid rainbow can be seen from our hotel, where we enjoy fresh cheese from the cheese shop before dinner.At the Hotel Anachoreo, a spectacular rainbow lights up the sky. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
A Steep Climb to the Cows
A local farmer, Wilson, has invited us to explore his land. We enjoy coffee and homemade muffins in his barn the next morning before heading out. This is the first time Lizzie has taken him up on his offer, and he seems excited to have us.Narrow, rocky paths climb up the mountainside to Wilson’s cattle farm. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Ali has decided to give the mule, Mr. Red, a try, and he turns out to be a good choice for the narrow, rocky paths clinging to the hillside. We dismount and follow Wilson to a hidden cave, complete with bats and human bones.
Steep climbs that lead to incredible vistas and long canters on the sandy footing are a treat. After a rest in the shade, Jose helps Wilson round up his cows, and we help herd them back to the ranch where a homemade picnic awaits us.
Dawn’s Paint Horse, Luca, is the perfect mount to practice roping cows while Wilson and Jose brand calves. What a day!Cattle farmer Wilson invites the group to explore his land, as he and Jose brand calves. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Tropical Forest Waterfall
Dawn’s sister, Danialle, has finally arrived (delayed due to passport issues), and she joins us for the rest of the week. Just when you think it can’t get any better, Lizzie keeps throwing surprises at us.Danialle rides up the freshly graded dirt road in the National Forest. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
We begin to explore the tropical forests of the Santa Fe National Park, a 290-square mile conservation area. Surrounded by hanging vines and tropical plants, a very steep climb takes us to a stunning waterfall, where we can jump in to cool off and swim around in its pools.
The newly purchased shoes for swimming come in handy. The current is strong in parts, so we have to be careful. At the end of a great ride we cross the river, dismount and enjoy a wonderful riverside BBQ, finished off with Ali’s special grilled pineapple.In the tropical forest, a steep climb takes the riders to a stunning waterfall, where they cool off with a swim. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
A freshly graded red dirt road on the side of a mountain allows for long gallops. At the top, we rest and take in the views, trying to spot our hotel below.
Organic Farm & Hanging Bridge
Deep in the forest, we ride to an organic farm for lunch, of which 90 percent of the ingredients are home-grown. The owner gives us a demonstration of how coffee is made. Everyone we meet is super friendly and accommodating.
The clouds continue to linger in the next valley, and we can feel the mist in the air, but the rain subsides for the entire week. Everyone has been happy with their mounts. Nothing seems to faze them: not the horses running in pastures next to us, cows coming to check us out, trucks on the road, or barking dogs.
They are put to the test when we have to cross a long, skinny hanging bridge hovering above the river. We dismount and walk them across. I am shaking in my boots, but Capitan doesn’t flinch. These horses are amazing—even at an old telephone booth, Dawn coaxes Luca right up to grab the receiver.All of the horses are calm while being led across the hanging bridge above the river bed. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Goodbyes & The Canopy Tower
Our last ride finishes at Lizzie’s farm, where we untack the horses and help Jose bathe them and turn them out. It is with sweet sorrow that we say goodbye to the horses, the farm, Wilson, Lizzie and Jose. The experience has been incredibly unique.
Ali and I finish the trip with a breakfast tour of The Canopy Tower, just outside of Panama City, where we get to watch various tropical birds and monkeys at the top of the rain forest. A nature walk rewards us with an anteater sighting, a first for me.Just outside Panama City, the Canopy Tower provides views of the rain forest wildlife. A nature walk turns up an anteater sighting. Photo by Shawn Hamilton
Panama has never been a destination at the top of my list, but Unicorn Trails Santa Fe Jungle Ride with Horseback Panama touched my heart. The horses, the people, the locally grown food, and the stunning scenery definitely won me over.
For more on the Santa Fe Jungle Ride, visit here.
Other Horseback Riding Destinations
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◆ The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch
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◆ Riding Camargue Horses in France
This article about a trail ride in Panama appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!