As winter approaches, it’s important to review our horse’s nutrition and make sure they’re well prepared to deal with the coming colder months. How do you know if you need to make changes to your horse’s diet in preparation for winter?

1. Changes In Workload

Often we ride our horses more during the summer months than we do during the winter months. Additionally, the type of work our horses do during summer can be very different than the work they do during the winter.

Both of these are reasons your horse would need a diet change. If your horse is going to be getting the winter months off, or is going to be doing less rigorous work, it’s important to adjust the energy (calories) in their diet. This can be a simple change, such as decreasing how many pounds of concentrate he gets. Always follow label recommendations for workload.

Your horse should always have plenty of forage, but you might look into something less rich in calories for the winter, such as switching from alfalfa hay to timothy.

2. The Hard Keeper

If you have a horse that struggles to maintain good weight in weather that’s not stressful, it’s going to be even more important to prepare for winter. This could be due to breed, age, or existing health issues.

I recommend beginning diet changes as soon as the weather starts to cool down. It’s difficult to bring a horse back up to the right weight after he’s lost it. It’s much easier to make gradual changes as needed and slightly over condition instead.

Feeding these types of horses plenty of high-quality hay in addition to an appropriate concentrate and/or supplementary fat (such as vegetable oil) works well for maintaining or increasing body condition. Paired with proper blanketing, making these nutritional changes should help your horse stay in good weight all winter long.

3. New To The Cold

Horses are very adaptable, but dealing with weather that’s more severe than they are used to can be stressful. These horses may need a short period of increased calorie intake as winter begins.

Once they are accustomed to the weather, it can be fine to adjust their diet back.

The post 3 Reasons To Adjust Your Horse’s Diet This Winter appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

As your horse ages, his nutritional needs will change. Providing your senior horse with the right nutrition is key in helping him stay healthy and happy for as long as possible.

Horses become less efficient at utilizing feed as they get older. The are a few reasons for this, and the first one is their teeth! Senior horses will obviously have more wear on their teeth than younger horses, which can make it difficult to consume the same feeds a younger horse would and get the same amount of energy out of them.

Feeding hay that is higher in important nutrients like protein is a great way to get your senior horse more nutrients in the same amount of feed. An example of this would be feeding alfalfa hay instead of grass hay. Another way to increase the amount of nutrients your senior horse is receiving from hay is by feeding higher quality hay. For example, alfalfa hay with smaller stems and more leaves is considered a high quality hay. Make sure you make any feed changes gradually.

Senior horses with more severe dental issues can still struggle to consume enough hay to meet their nutritional needs. Soaked hay cubes provide easy-to-chew forage for horses with dental problems. Additionally, feed supplements or mashes can be another great way to get your senior horse the nutrients they need in a form that is easier to consume.

If you do decide your senior horse needs a feed supplement or mash, it is important to feed one specifically formulated for senior horses. Just like our nutritional needs change as we age, a senior horse’s nutritional needs are going to be different than a young horse’s nutritional needs. For example, older horses actually need increased levels of amino acids in their diet compared with younger horses.

As horses age, their digestive systems become less efficient at absorbing nutrients and their bodies in general become less efficient at utilizing what is absorbed. This is why supplemental senior feeds and mashes can be a good option for older horses. They provide an efficient way to get a high amount of nutrients to your senior horse regularly, ensuring you’re meeting their nutritional needs.

As winter approaches, it is particularly important to re-evaluate your senior horse’s nutrition program and his body condition. The cold weather can be much more difficult for an older horse to deal with compared with a younger horse.

I often recommend getting senior horses just slightly over their ideal weight before winter. That way if they do start to struggle in the colder weather, you have a small buffer available while you figure out what diet changes need to happen to keep your horse at a healthy weight. Getting a senior horse back into the right body condition often takes longer than it does for a younger horse.

Nutrition for senior horses can be more involved than nutrition for a younger horse, but once you figure out your horse’s needs, it shouldn’t be hard to keep him healthy and happy!

Alli Kelley is the author of the blog,
Longbourn Farm where she tells
entertaining stories about country living while making sure her readers
get all the important information they need for taking care of their
horses and properties. She earned a BS in animal, dairy, and veterinary
science and a MS in animal nutrition. Her education and experience give
her a qualified and unique teaching style whether she is talking horses,
land, or food. You can follow Alli on
Instagram,
Pinterest,
Facebook, and Twitter.

The post Nutrition Tips for Senior Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

It has long been understood that when switching a horses feed the change should happen gradually. But do you know why? Sometimes switching feed can be tedious and tiresome so understanding the science behind why slow changes are important can help you determine if a change can be done more quickly or if a longer process is necessary.

Horses eat mostly forages. A forage is any type of high fiber feed – fresh grasses or legumes and dried grasses or legumes (aka “hay”) being the most common. In order to digest a diet composed mainly of forage, a horse needs some help. In addition to their stomach, small and large intestine, horses also have a cecum, and that’s where all the magic happens. There’s a village of microbes in your horse’s cecum and they are what actually digest a lot of the feed for your horse! It is a great symbiotic relationship. A cow’s rumen works in a similar way.

There isn’t just one kind of microbe. There are microbes that like fiber, microbes that like starch and many more kinds of microbes. This is important to know because when you feed your horse a certain feed, you’re really feeding a certain kind of microbe. When you feed an all-fiber diet of grass hay, you favor the fiber loving microbes and they become the largest population in the cecum. If you were to all of a sudden switch to a diet higher in sugar and starch, like fresh pasture grass, you would be starving the largest population of microbes in your horse’s cecum and there would simply not be enough of the starch loving microbes to handle the feed change. You would create a major digestive upset because the microbes can’t digest the feed – the wrong kinds of microbes are the biggest population in the cecum. This is why abrupt feed changes can lead to colic.

So, how does a gradual feed change help this situation? Let’s talk about a different way to handle the same scenario. You feed your horse grass hay and want to move him to pasture. You let him out on pasture for a few hours a day for several days. Then you increase the time on pasture by a few more hours a day for a couple more days. Within about a week your horse is just eating pasture. Perfect! This works because it gives the population of starch loving microbes time to grow and become large enough to handle the feed.

The microbes will adjust their population size based on the available feed – you just need to give them time. For major changes, like a high fiber diet to a higher starch diet, take it slower (7-10 days). For small diet changes, like grass hay to alfalfa hay, you can take it a little faster (3-5 days).

Additional Tips for Switching Feed:

1. If your horse is prone to colic, always make all feed changes very slowly and with frequent monitoring. Sometimes, an appropriate probiotic supplement can help this situation. A probiotic is a supplement of bacteria for your horse to aid in digestion.
2. When switching to pasture grass, turn out horses in the afternoon at first. The grass won’t be quite as rich and sugary.
3. Grazing in the afternoon also means the grass is drier (no dew) and your horse will produce more saliva. Increased saliva production is good because it helps maintain a healthy pH in your horse’s cecum, which in turn helps maintain healthy microbes.

Alli Kelley is the author of the blog,
Longbourn Farm where she tells
entertaining stories about country living while making sure her readers
get all the important information they need for taking care of their
horses and properties. She earned a BS in animal, dairy, and veterinary
science and a MS in animal nutrition. Her education and experience give
her a qualified and unique teaching style whether she is talking horses,
land, or food. You can follow Alli on
Instagram,
Pinterest,
Facebook, and Twitter.

The post The Science Behind Gradual Feed Changes appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Jumping back into riding isn’t as easy as I thought, but don’t get discouraged if you’re feeling the same way! Here are some challenges I’ve run into finding the right horse, and some solutions I’ve come up with as I continue the search!

Challenge #1: You’re not the same rider you used to be.

This may be disheartening and even discouraging. But just like you could get back on a bike and ride after time away, you’ll be able to do the same with riding a horse. It may just take more time and a little bit of patience.

Solution #1: Try a lot of different horses.

You’re going to be a different rider, but that’s OK! Trying a lot of different horses is going to give you a good idea of what you’re currently comfortable with and what you should be looking to purchase. I’ve even found that some bad riding habits I used to have are improved after time away. Trying a lot of horses is going to help you realize your new strengths and weaknesses and what kind of horse will be the best fit for where you’re at right now.

Don’t forget the pre-purchase exam! It’ll save you potential heartache down the road >>

Challenge #2: You may need a horse to accommodate more than just you.

Often when we take time away from riding, our life circumstances change. In my case, I now have a husband and soon to be two kids. For now, I will be the primary rider, but I want a horse that is going to be safe and fun for my family to ride occasionally as well.

Solution #2: Look for horses with qualities that will meet everyone’s most important need.

While it would be very difficult to find one horse that was the perfect fit for everyone in your family, it’s not difficult to find a horse that will meet the most important needs of your family. In my case, this means a horse that is calm and safe, but willing to go out for a good ride. Look at the big picture of what your horse will be used for and shop accordingly.

Challenge #3: You might have to learn how to care for a horse differently than you used too.

I always boarded horses when I was younger, but now I have my own land and barn where I will keep my horse. This wasn’t a huge transition for me because I have ample experience caring for horses, but if you’ve only ever paid board and want to start keeping your horse at home, you will need to learn how to do that properly. On that same note, boarding a horse can be a challenge if you’re used to keeping them yourself and doing things your own way.

Solution #3: Find a horse that is going to be happy with the living situation you provide.

Taking a horse that has always lived in a pasture and keeping him stabled (or vice-versa) can be a tough adjustment. A horse who has been in a herd may never get used to living alone. As you get back into riding, make things easy for yourself and shop for a horse who has been kept the way you plan to keep him. Or be adaptable and ready to provide a stall for a weather-phobic horse or a buddy for a social creature, if you have the means.

For all of these challenges—and the others you’ll encounter in your horse-owning adventures—Having a good mentor to guide you through issues you may need help with is very beneficial as well.

The post Re-Entering the World of Horse Ownership appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Horse shopping is not for the faint of heart. While it is a very fun process, it can also be a long process with bumps and frustrations along the way. This is especially true when parents are searching out the ideal mount for their young rider.

When horse shopping for your beginner’s first horse, it can be tempting (and easy!) to let excitement about breed, color, or looks get in the way of more important qualities. While there is nothing wrong with keeping an eye out for a particular color or breed, it’s more important to focus on the less exciting qualities. Here are six things parents should look for (and watch out for) when horse-hunting for a young beginning rider:

1. 1. Buy a very broke horse. The most important quality a young, beginning rider’s first horse needs to have is to be reliable and safe. Seek out a horse or pony they can have fun on without constantly worrying about spookiness or bad behavior. You want to set your young rider up for success; there will be plenty of riding challenges your child faces even with a trustworthy mount.

1. 1. Get a good-tempered horse. A beginner’s horse shouldn’t be hot, excitable, flighty or mean. Steady, stable and easygoing makes the perfect mount for a youngster.

1. 1. Buy a horse that is the right size. If you have a very small child, don’t buy a gigantic horse that they won’t be able to easily groom, tack up or handle on their own. If you have a very tall child, don’t buy a short pony that they’ll outgrow in a year. Buy a horse that fits your child now, with a little wiggle room for growth. The right size horse will suit your young rider for a long time.

1. 1. Get a horse that is a “schoolmaster.” If your beginning rider is interested in a specific discipline, get a horse that is well trained in that sport. The horse doesn’t have to be a seasoned show winner, but buying a horse that is a veteran of the sport ensures your young rider will have the right mount for the job they want to do. For example, if your beginner wants to try jumping, buying a horse that has proven experience over fences is going to make it much easier (and safer.) But remember that beginning riders usually want to try different things and have fun with horses. A horse or pony who can cart your child around a course of jumps, down the trail, and do mounted games is a better bet than a specialist who will win every jumper class but is untrustworthy in other situations.

1. 1. Don’t be afraid of a little maintenance. Often the perfect horse for a young beginner is an older horse with a lot of mileage behind him, and these horses sometimes require more health maintenance. While this can be limiting for your budget or the horse’s ability, usually minor age issues like special hoof care or joint maintenance won’t break the bank. It will be an extra management aspect and an extra expense, but when a senior horse is the perfect fit, it will be worth your time and money.

1. Beware of fraud. Unfortunately, there are many ways that people can cheat you when buying a horse. The best way to avoid these pitfalls is by taking a trusted professional with you to look at horses and always getting a vet check done by a veterinarian you trust. Doing both of these things will eliminate much of the guesswork when purchasing a horse for your young beginner.

Alli Kelley is the author of the blog, Longbourn Farm where she tells entertaining stories about country living while making sure her readers get all the important information they need for taking care of their horses and properties. She earned a BS in animal, dairy, and veterinary science and a MS in animal nutrition. Her education and experience give her a qualified and unique teaching style whether she is talking horses, land, or food. You can follow Alli on Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook, and Twitter.

The post Finding the Perfect Kid’s Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Nothing makes me cringe more than seeing tack that was once nice lying in a dirty heap on the bottom of the tack room floor, piled high with dust and bits caked with dried hay and slobber. So, to avoid that disastrous scene, how and when should you clean your tack?

Every time you use it, or close to that often. If this seems excessive to you, let me ask you a few questions:

• Do you wash your dishes every time you use them?
• Do you enjoy eating off of a dirty fork?
• Do you like to go for a run in a mud-caked jacket?
• Tell me the last time you waited 2 years to wash your clothes.

Is this starting to make sense? I hope so. Your horse does work for you. You should be doing everything you can to make that work comfortable! Here are some great tack cleaning methods for you to implement in your own tack room.

Tack Cleaning Supplies

For everyday cleaning, you will need a small bucket, a soft cloth, and some saddle soap. The kind of saddle soap you use it totally up to you, just be sure it is good quality.

You’ll want to condition your tack regularly, but the frequency depends on where you keep it, the weather, and how old it is. When conditioning, just use your favorite leather conditioner and rub it in well with a soft cloth or just your fingers.

You’ll also want to have a toothbrush and a toothpick handy to get in those hard to reach places on bits, bridles and saddles.

The Bit

Wipe the mouthpiece down with a damp cloth after every ride, scraping off any bits of feed. If you haven’t wiped it down in a while, let it soak for 15-30 minutes in very hot water and it should wipe clean pretty easily after that. If there is gunk stuck in the joints of the bit, use a toothbrush or toothpick to scrape it out. If your bit has rust on it, polish it away with a steel-wool pad, making sure to rinse and wipe it down very well afterwards.

The Bridle

Wipe down the leather with a damp cloth (ring out as much of the water as possible) and saddle soap after every ride, paying particular attention to buckle pieces and areas that accumulate dirt. You can also partially unbuckle any straps to make sure all the crevices are clean.

You should completely disassemble your bridle regularly and give it a really thorough cleaning and conditioning. How often you should disassemble and condition depends on how often it’s being used, the weather conditions it’s exposed to, et cetera. Give your tack a deep clean and condition before storing it for a long period of time. Make sure it’s completely dry before putting it away.

The Saddle

Wipe your saddle down with a damp cloth and saddle soap after every ride being sure to lift up all the flaps and get in all the crevices. Deep clean your saddles on the same schedule as you do your bridles.

If you notice tiny little dots of dirt building up under the flaps on your saddle, you’ll want to scrape those off. Using a putty knife can get this job done nicely, just be gentle so you don’t scrape the leather. These will stay away with regular cleaning.

Take some time to polish any metal on your saddle, including your stirrup irons. There are a lot of products out there that work really well; find one that you like and works for you.

Saddle Pads

Wash your saddle pads at least every couple of months. If your saddle pad has caked on dirt and hair you can’t get off – it’s been way too long! If there is a lot of hair on your saddle pad, you can gently run a metal curry down the pad to get off as much as possible before running it through the wash (for non-wool pads). Take some time to make sure there aren’t any small holes that need repairing or loose threads that need to be trimmed.

Horse Boots & Wraps

Use a stiff bristled brush to brush off your horse’s boots after every ride. Be sure to pay particular attention to Velcro or buckles and try to keep those areas as clean as possible.

For a thorough clean, don’t just throw your plastic or neoprene boots in the washing machine–that can be a little rough on them. One method is to use a top-loading washer as it’s filling up. When you are doing a load of barn laundry, let the water and soap fill up in the machine and than swish the boots around in there and rinse them in clean water. You can do the same thing using laundry detergent and water in a bucket. After they’re thoroughly rinsed, simply let them air dry.

Leather boots should be cared for the same way you care for your bridle. If they are fleece-lined, be sure to brush out the dirt after each ride. If they are lined on the inside with any other type of material, wipe it down with a damp cloth.

Polo wraps and other types of bandage wraps can go in the washing machine. To avoid a giant, Velcro mess, separate the wraps into groups of 2-3 and put them into their own mesh garment bags. This keeps them from getting tangled up.

There you have it! All the dirty details you need to keep your tack clean and have it last for years to come!

Alli Kelley is the author of the blog, Longbourn Farm (link to www.longbournfarm.com) where she tells entertaining stories about country living while making sure her readers get all the important information they need for taking care of their horses and properties. She earned a BS in animal, dairy, and veterinary science and a MS in animal nutrition. Her education and experience give her a qualified and unique teaching style whether she is talking horses, land, or food. You can follow Alli on
Instagram,
Pinterest,
Facebook, and Twitter.

The post The Dirty Details on Cleaning Your Tack appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.