As temperatures increase, so do the risks of heat-related ailments. According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), these are common summer dangers to watch for:

• Cats and dogs not getting enough water, resulting in dehydration.
• Hot asphalt, which can burn sensitive paws.
• Lawn and garden insecticides that are toxic to cats and dogs.
• Heat exhaustion and heatstroke in dogs and cats, which can result in brain damage, organ failure and death.

Heat exhaustion and heatstroke, which are life-threatening conditions caused by extreme elevations in body temperature, are perhaps the most dangerous heat-related risks for outdoor cats and dogs. Dr. Sally J. Foote, owner and head veterinarian of Okaw Veterinary Clinic in Tuscola, Illinois, explains heatstroke and heat exhaustion “causes changes in blood chemistry, brain damage, coma and death.”

Unfortunately, they’re also the most subtle to catch. It’s crucial to learn the symptoms of heat exhaustion and heatstroke so you take action and learn how to keep your barn cats and dogs cool. Better yet, you can prevent heatstroke and heat exhaustion by providing your barn cats and dogs with the proper shelter and supplies to keep them cool.

Signs of Heat Exhaustion and Heatstroke in Cats and Dogs

Heat exhaustion, also known as hyperthermia, occurs when the body temperature rises above normal. Normal body temperatures for dogs are about 101 degrees Fahrenheit to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit and 100.5 to 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit for cats, says Jo Pendergrass, DVM, founder of JPen Communications LLC in Sandy Springs, Georgia. Heatstroke occurs when an internal body temperature exceeds 106 degrees Fahrenheit.

While temperature marks one way to determine if a pet is experiencing heat exhaustion or heatstroke, there are physical signs as well.

Sandra C. Mitchell, DVM, owner of All Creatures Veterinary Services in Bangor, Maine, categorizes the signs of heat exhaustion and heatstroke in dogs and cats into two stages: Early and Late.

Early Stages of Heat Exhaustion/Heatstroke:

• Excessive panting (usually the first symptom)
• Excessive drooling; note that the drool may be thicker than usual.
• Restlessness

Later Stages of Heat Exhaustion/Heatstroke:

• Vomiting or diarrhea with blood present
• Collapse
• Shock

All dogs and cats can suffer from overheating and heatstroke, but some are especially susceptible, so it is detrimental that your barn cats and dogs keep cool during the heat. Pets with an underlying disease, like heart disease, or who are overweight are at increased risk for overheating or developing heatstroke, according to Dr. Mitchell. Dogs weighing more than 30 pounds and brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds also have a higher risk.

Overheated animals typically wind up with problems in multiple organs that ultimately can be fatal. According to Dr. Mitchell, other common complications include:

• Kidney failure
• Disorders involving blood coagulation
• Lung injury
• Respiratory and heart systems failure
• Destruction of the muscle fibers

Additionally, the nervous system and the gastrointestinal system can be damaged, Dr. Mitchell says. Once heatstroke starts, almost all of the body’s organs can end up damaged or destroyed. The failure of one organ can result in the failure of another one that tries to compensate for it, and so on. Immediate treatment is needed to help stop permanent damage to the body.

Treating Heat Exhaustion and Heatstroke in Cats and Dogs

“Heat exhaustion and heatstroke are treatable,” Dr. Pendergrass says. “However, this treatment must begin immediately to improve the chances of recovery.”

If you notice any signs of your pet overheating, even if you are unsure if it is heat exhaustion or heatstroke, Dr. Pendergrass says to call your veterinarian immediately for further instruction. She also recommends doing the following:

1. Immediately move your pet to a cooler environment, such as inside or to a shaded outdoor area.
2. Lower his body temperature by pouring cool (NOT cold) or lukewarm water over his entire body. Cold water will lower the body temperature too quickly, possibly throwing the body into shock.
3. Because a dog’s ears and paws have blood vessels that expand to dissipate heat when his body temperature rises, pay special attention to pouring cool water over these areas. This can assist in lowering his body temperature.
4. Dab paws with cotton balls soaked with rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol cools the paws and helps to lower the body temperature.
5. After pouring water on your pet, allow him to dry off in front of a fan.
6. Offer your pet cool (NOT cold) water to drink frequently, but DO NOT force him to drink.

Take your pet’s temperature every 30-60 seconds by inserting a digital thermometer into his rectum (place a lubricant, like petroleum jelly, on the thermometer first). If the temperature drops below 103.5 degrees Fahrenheit, you can stop the cooling procedures.

Monitor your pet closely for the next 24 hours. If his condition worsens, take him to your veterinarian immediately for further evaluation and treatment.

In the event that your pet’s temperature rises above 106 degrees Fahrenheit, heatstroke is imminent. This is why it is important to keep your barn cats and dogs cool during the summer season. Contact your veterinarian and immediately start heading to your veterinarian’s office for additional treatment. By the time you arrive, the veterinary staff should be ready to begin treating your pet.

Note: There are some instances when you should bypass first aid on your own and take your pet to your veterinarian immediately. In these situations, delaying veterinary treatment might prove life-threatening. These critical situations include:

• No access to a thermometer or cool water
• Pet is vomiting or has diarrhea
• Pet is demonstrating neurologic symptoms: collapse, seizures, unresponsive

The duration of treatment for heatstroke varies depending on the extent of organ damage, Dr. Pendergrass says. If organ damage is detected on bloodwork and urinalysis, your pet should be hospitalized to ensure continued monitoring and treatment.

Tips for Preventing Heatstroke and Heat Exhaustion

Barn cats and dogs typically spend more time outdoors compared to house pets, so it’s important to keep them cool—and there are plenty of ways. The ASPCA suggests the following to keep outdoor dogs and cats cool during the warm summer months:

• Make sure your barn pets have access to plenty of clean water. You may even want to provide more water dishes than usual since the heat can cause water to evaporate. Another option is cat and dog waterers that store large quantities of water. Or, if your pet is finicky, try some dog or cat water fountains.
• Add shaded areas for your barn cat or dog to rest in.
• For especially hot times, keep your barn cat or dog in a well-ventilated area to keep cool. You can provide your pup with an elevated dog bed for a cool place to lie.

For the barn, Dr. Foote recommends “keep the barn open, with fresh water daily—allow air flow, large fans help.”

Just because it’s hot doesn’t mean your barn pets can’t be out and about. By taking the proper precautions, you can help keep your barn cats and dogs comfortable and cool in hot weather.

The post Summer Safety: Keeping Barn Cats and Dogs Cool When the Weather Heats Up appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The Skunk and All Its Odorous Glory

Before diving into the stinky business of de-skunking, it’s helpful to know why skunks smell in the first place.

“The odor [of skunks] is produced in the anal glands, which all carnivores—including dogs and cats—have,” says Ted Stankowich, Ph.D., associate professor of biological sciences at California State University in Long Beach, California. “The anal glands of skunks are much larger though, and produce specialized molecules that contain sulfur, called ‘thiols,’ that are noxious.

“They also have specialized spraying ‘nipples’ inside the rectum that are pushed outward and spray the oil,” he continues. “The oil doesn’t get on the skunk itself, so skunks that aren’t actively spraying actually don’t smell any different from any other mammal.”

Skunks use their “superpower” of putrid odor to defend themselves. According to Dr. Stankowich, they commonly use their odors when they’re defending against hungry coyotes and cougars, which are their natural predators.

Though they are wild animals, that doesn’t stop skunks from wandering around beyond their natural habitat, which means there’s a possibility one might end up in your barn.

Though they are wild animals, that doesn’t stop skunks from wandering around beyond their natural habitat, which means there’s a possibility one might end up in your barn.

David Ramey, DVM, owner of Ramey Equine in Sunland, California, explains that if a skunk wanders by, preventing an attack is challenging.

“[Dogs and horses] both [usually] get skunked the same way—they let their curiosity get the best of them,” Dr. Ramey says.

Getting Rid of Skunk Smell on Your Horse and Dog

Did you find your horse or dog sprayed by a skunk? Keep calm, put on some old clothes that you don’t mind tossing and grab some gloves to get rid of the skunk smell on your horse or dog.

“First get the animal controlled and keep it outside,” Dr. Stankowich says.

By confining the animal in an enclosed outdoor space, you’re also controlling the odor and making sure it doesn’t spread around to places like your house or car.

Once your horse or dog is safe and contained, it’s time to begin the de-skunking process. Wash your pet with a mixture of soap, hydrogen peroxide and baking soda. Do not add water, as this can make it worse, says Liv Gude, founder of ProEquineGrooms.com and a former professional groom for Olympic dressage riders.

“This may cause the skunk oil to move to more places as well as dilute the cleaning solution,” she says.

Homemade Deskunker Recipe

Gude recommends this tried and true recipe:

• 1 quart of hydrogen peroxide (or vinegar if you don’t have any hydrogen peroxide)
• 1/4 cup of baking soda
• 1 teaspoon of dish soap

“That will oxidize the thiols and convert them into molecules that have no odor,” she says.

One batch may not cover all of the animal’s skunked parts. Or, the first wash might not eliminate the odor. Do not double up on ingredients to make a larger batch, Gude says, because hydrogen peroxide breaks down so quickly. You’ll have to make each batch one at time, and it is common to need several batches to completely eliminate the skunk smell.

“It may take a few rounds to get the scent out completely, and the fur will probably lighten a bit,” Gude explains, “but it’s the best way to neutralize the smell.”

Once you’ve mixed together a batch, use a rag to wipe the formula on the animal. Repeat until the odor is gone.

Always call your veterinarian for advice on dealing with any skunk oil that has gotten into your pet’s nose, eyes or other sensitive areas. Gude also warns that skunks can transmit rabies, so your vet might need to administer a rabies vaccination booster and check your dog or horse for any wounds.

Getting Rid of Skunk Smell Pet Supplies and Clothing

Once your pet is effectively de-skunked, it’s time to take care of any horse or dog supplies that might have been sprayed.

Should the dog collar and/or leash get sprayed, Dr. Ramey suggests using bleach because it helps oxidize the thiols. To help remove the skunk odor, soak the supplies in a ratio of 1:4 bleach solution—1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Note: Certain materials, such as cotton or leather, may be discolored by the bleach.

Getting Rid of Skunk Smell on Leather

Leather horse supplies may take more time. First, call the manufacturer of your saddle. Depending on the type of leather used, the manufacturer may be able to provide specific instructions.

Generally, you can use a paste of baking soda and water to de-skunk your leather tack, Gude says. To create the paste, mix the two ingredients together until you get the consistency of toothpaste. Coat your tack with the paste and let it sit and dry. Repeat as necessary. After the baking soda, deep clean and condition your tack according to the manufacturer’s suggestions.

Getting Rid of Skunk Smell on Your Clothes

If you happen to get sprayed yourself, or the odor spreads to your clothes, Dr. Stankowich recommends handwashing your clothes in very diluted bleach and repeat until the smell is gone. You can put more concentrated bleach on the precise spots with spray, but handwashing with diluted bleach is safest for your clothes, according to Dr. Stankowich.

He also recommends using OxyClean.

“I’ve used OxyClean on my own field clothes, and a few washings will usually get rid of a light skunk odor,” he says.

Skunk-Proofing Your Barn

While you can’t completely keep skunks from wandering to your barn, you can take precautions to make them less likely to approach.

The best way to skunk-proof your property is to not have any food, trash, or water outside, Dr. Stankowich says. Keep trash bins closed, make sure there are no openings under your house and remove any piles of rocks, branches or logs where skunks can burrow and make a den.

When protecting your barn, keep your tack room and feed rooms secure at all times. Stay active on all parts of your property so that critters know they are not welcome there, Gude says. Your local animal control can help you with any skunk-specific questions if you see one on your property.

Although a skunk spraying you, your horse or your dog is a stinky situation, you now know how to get rid of that awful skunk smell!

The post De-skunking: Getting Rid of Skunk Smell on Dogs and Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

What Are Barn Cats?

“Generally speaking, barn cats are independent cats who prefer to limit their interactions with humans,” says Angela Speed, vice president of communications at Wisconsin Humane Society in Milwaukee. “However, the degree to which they keep their distance varies from cat to cat and may change over time. Even those who prefer to keep their distance may develop bonds with their caregiver after positive encounters with people.”

And while these kitties might be shy around humans, they are not to be confused with feral cats.

“Feral cats are much less domesticated and socialized, and rarely develop bonds with humans,” Speed says.

Also unlike feral cats, barn cats are actually on the clock working. In fact, these cats can be referred to as “working cats.”

“The term ‘working cat,’ to us, is defined as a cat that provides a job—mousing/rodent control and/or companionship for barn animals and people—in return for the safety and care provided from an owner,” says Julia Doane, community animal welfare specialist and barn cat coordinator at Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (MSPCA) in Methuen, Massachusetts.

For these cats, their rodent-fetching talents aren’t limited to the farm. They also can provide mouse control in stables, warehouses, wineries, brewers and even garages.

Care for Barn Cats

While barn cats may spend most of their time outside, they still require care. Unlike caring for feral cats who truly rely on their environment for survival, these cats need food, shelter and veterinary care.

Feeding

Your barn cats might spend their days chasing mice, and even snacking on them, but with all the running around, it’s important to keep them nourished and healthy. Feeding these cats a high-quality cat food will help supply nutrients for those days they especially are hard at work.

“Because barn cats tend to live independent lifestyles, most have free-choice access to dry cat food, [so] pick a high-protein option,” says Jennifer Coates, DVM, from Fort Collins, Colorado. “Try to provide wet food from time to time (daily if at all possible) to promote adequate water intake.”

And if you think regularly feeding these cats will make them lazy when “on the job,” think again.

“Cats will continue to hunt, even if they have access to adequate amounts of food, so don’t worry about your rodent population exploding if you feed your barn cats well,” Dr. Coates adds.

In addition to food, barn cats need regular access to clean water to keep them hydrated, Dr. Coates says. During colder months, she recommends using a heated water bowl to prevent freezing.

Shelter

You’d think a barn would be a cat-napper’s dream shelter since they usually have cozy places to sleep in and horse supplies to cuddle up on. But it might be best to provide your kitty with her own personal space and shelter, especially if your barn is not climate-controlled.

“If your barn cats have access to a climate-controlled tack room or something similar, you can simply provide them a regular indoor cat bed—self-warming varieties are nice—or a simple, unheated cat house for them to rest in,” Dr. Coates says. “Cats who are more exposed to cold temperatures should have access to a well-insulated, heated cat house.”

When you first get a barn cat, experts suggest keeping him confined in a secure area in the barn until he’s had time to acclimate to his new environment, usually a couple weeks. The space should include all of the basic necessities: cat litter box, food, water and a bed. (Make sure the litter box is away from food and water bowls, as well as their cat bed.) This also will help teach your cat that the barn is his “home base,” according to the Kitsap Humane Society in Silverdale, Washington.

Veterinary Care

Providing regular veterinary care is another important necessity for your barn cats, especially preventative healthcare.

“They need to be kept up-to-date on their rabies, feline leukemia and FVRCP (feline viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus and panleukopenia) vaccines,” Dr. Coates says. “They should also be on monthly broad-spectrum parasite control that protects them against heartworms, fleas, ticks and intestinal parasites.”

In addition, you’ll want to get your barn cats spayed or neutered. This helps limit overpopulation and benefits their health, such as reducing the risk of cancer, according to the Amercian Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA).

Safety and Well-Being

Providing a healthy and safe environment is essential. That might be difficult to accomplish if you have too many cats or if some of the cats do not get along well with others.

If you find that your barn cats are overwhelming you and you can’t provide proper care, take a moment to decide what is best for you and your felines.

“If a cat is unable to return to [their] colony, or there are too many [barn cats] to maintain in this environment, they may be considered for direct rehoming to a new barn,” Doane says.

If you have an overpopulation problem, you may have to turn to Trap, Neuter, Return/Release (TNR). Many organizations and cat rescue groups organize local TNR clinics for barn cats to be fixed and then returned to their colonies at a low cost, Doane says.

If you find that your barn cats are not getting along or there is an aggression issue, reach out to a behaviorist and the rescue or shelter where you got your barn cats.

“Each case is different, and aggression can stem from different things,” Doane explains. “Some big questions to ask are: Have there been any changes to the environment? and Have you tried offering the cat a quiet space to restart?

“Depending on the behavior,” she says, “we would recommend different behavior plans.”

On top of that, Doane suggests consulting with your veterinarian to see if there are any medical issues that might be causing unusual behavior.

Life With Barn Cats

So, what’s life like with barn cats? Kathyrn Krische, a farm owner from Crossville, Tennessee, shares her experience.

“I currently have two barn cats,” she says.

Matilda is a 6-year-old female tabby, and T-Rex is a male cat in the Siamese family whose age is unknown. As far as personalities go, Matilda and T-Rex are polar opposites.

“Matilda is a little more standoffish but likes to meow loudly at me if I don’t feed them fast enough!” Krische says. “T-Rex loves to ride on the golf cart and follows me around when I do barn chores.”

For Krische, it’s hard to imagine a life without her barn cats.

“I don’t think you can have a proper barn without a couple cats in it,” she says. “A barn cat is really a valuable farm team member. They have a job to do, and a good barn cat is very valuable for rodent control!”

The post How to Care for Barn Cats appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.