Comments on: How to Break in a New Saddle

By: Mary

Mary — Fri, 18 Dec 2015 08:13:56 +0000

I enjoyed this article. Thank you.
Thought I would share my standard pattern of leather care for my saddlery – both English and western saddles and bridles:
Glycerine saddle soap all over. Get that dirt and sweat out and off of the piece. Wipe off excess foam from the soap. Allow to dry.
Heat pure Neatsfoot oil or Neatsfoot compound in a small crappy sauce pan designated just for that service. I get it pretty hot, too – NOT blazing hot, just really, really warm. Don’t walk away from the stove, oil can catch on fire. Heating the oil is extremely efficacious; i.e.: it is much, much more effective than applying at room temperature. The hot oil is much more penetrating. I’m not kidding.
I take a sponge – I prefer the dense kind that are made for grouting tile. I buy them from someplace like Home Depot and cut them into thirds (they work well for the Glycerine soaping, too). I take the heated oil and dip the sponge in it and liberally wipe it all over the saddle, underside, too, forcing it into the cracks and crevices. It soaks in very rapidly.
After a short time, whatever is going to soak in will have soaked in. I take an old cotton T-shirt (cotton jersey – lint free) and wipe and buff all over the saddle or bridle. Leather is left preserved, soft, supple.
You can wear heavy rubber cleaning gloves during the application if you don’t want to get the oil on your skin or the oil is too hot for you. I don’t bother with gloves. Oh, I’ve heard that some folks who use this method substitute a designated paint brush for application.
Considerations and comments:
• Pure Neatsfoot WILL darken the leather. So will the compound. Just sayin’.
• Pure Neatsfoot can be kind of sticky. I have found that the compound is much less sticky.
• I do not apply the Neatsfoot every single time I saddle soap the saddle. Depending on how much a saddle is used, I would say that I apply about every 2 to 3 months, more if the leather gets super wet during use.
• I live in a humid climate (western Oregon). If a Neatsfoot leather item is stored in a barn or tack room for a length of time and it is not climate controlled, sometimes a funky layer of mold shows up. It’s of no consequence. I just saddle soap as usual, an apply the hot Neatsfoot, and presto: good as new. I think the mold appears because Neatsfoot is a natural fat or product.
Some people hate Neatsfoot. I love the stuff and overwhelmingly the advantages outweigh the disadvantages. Try this method on one piece. See how you like it.

By: Anna

Anna — Sun, 09 Sep 2012 07:29:08 +0000

Good advice Horse Channel!

By: j

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 14:33:01 +0000

not my fav thing to do

By: tex

tex — Thu, 23 Jun 2011 01:55:53 +0000

ive been breaking horses and saddles for 45 years,quickest way to break in a saddle is to tie 20 ft of ropr arond the horn then throw it in the dam for 2 hrs pull it out strap it on your horse,go for a good ride,come back take it off and put it in a dry place for a week,then graese.

By: Brittany

Brittany — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:03:01 +0000

This was very helpful, but i was wondering if Lexol would work, or should i stick with an oil. Any comments?! thanks!

By: Angela

Angela — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 06:29:44 +0000

Article is great, exactly what we did last time with a new English saddle ( 9 years ago) BUT we were also advised to “roll” the leather flaps, both ways, each time to aid in softening and absorbtion of the WARMED neatsfoot oil. We are in the process of starting another new saddle and we will do the same as before

By: Dalila

Dalila — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 06:45:48 +0000

if you have a synithetic saddle it’s usually very stiff so a good idea is to buy a second hand one.but they don’t last as long i;ve had my experience.but lubricating a synithetic saddle will ruin it. so ride in at walk with your horse walk for about one week then trot for one week or even less if you want then do what you want.

By: Dalila

Dalila — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 17:49:04 +0000

you should add in that you should use stirrup leather covers if it’s a trial saddle. That way you don’t rub markings and ruin it because if it dose’nt fit you might not be allowed to return it.
everything else is great i’m trying out this stuff on my new saddle.

By: Jessica

Jessica — Wed, 24 Sep 2008 19:52:10 +0000

good tips thanks! i just got a new saddle.

By: Martin

Martin — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 10:39:51 +0000

I’ve plenty experience riding but none with a new saddle. I now have 2 that I will be needing to break in for the coming riding season. I found the basics of what I need to do the job in this article and look forward riding my nice, new tack this Summer.