The decision to sell a horse can be a difficult one, part of which is making sure that your horse reaches a safe landing spot. But there are steps you can take to make sure that happens so you can rest easy knowing your horse is in responsible care.

Teach Essential Skills

Possessing a basic set of skills can create a greater likelihood that your horse will enjoy a wonderful new home, even if his next stop isn’t his permanent one.

The Basic Behaviors Profile, created by The Right Horse Initiative, was developed with the idea that the key to a successful placement for a horse in transition is matching the right horse to the right person. Because it assesses such skills as catching, haltering, leading, and tying, it can be used by any horse owner or potential horse owner as one of several tools in evaluating a prospective new horse.

“The Basic Behaviors Profile gives great confidence to the potential adopter or buyer of the animal that the seller really knows and understands that horse,” says Emily Weiss, Ph.D., vice president of ASPCA Equine Welfare. The ASPCA is the parent organization of The Right Horse Initiative.

While not all-inclusive, the BBP covers the following skills:

◆ Can the horse be approached when loose in turnout?
◆ Is he calm when haltered?
◆ Does he lead, turn, stop, and back?
◆ Can he be led through a gate?
◆ Can he stand calmly tied?
◆ Does he move his hindquarters away from pressure of the hand?
◆ Does he stand calmly while his body is brushed or while his legs are sprayed with water?
◆ Does he allow all feet to be picked up and stand calmly while each foot is held?
◆ Does he stand calmly for: blanket/fly sheet, oral administration of fluid from a syringe or tube, rectal temperature, fly spray?
◆ Does he calmly load and trailer?

When in place, these behaviors help to reduce risk during interactions between horses and humans while on the ground. While the lack of a skill should not automatically disqualify a horse from consideration, it can indicate an area in which a horse needs more work. The profile is key, because within its framework it provides a clear definition of calm exhibition of behaviors. To ensure a reasonable opportunity for success, it also specifies ideal locations for where the assessment should be performed.

Jen Roytz is executive director of the Retired Racehorse Project, an industry partner of The Right Horse Initiative. Roytz further expands on those simple skills.

“By putting a basic foundation of skills on a horse, such as teaching him to stand at a mounting block or in cross-ties, or to walk, trot, and canter without getting too quick or behind the leg, [you] will make a horse more marketable and essentially more appealing to potential buyers or adopters,” says Roytz. “To me, it’s like an insurance policy for that horse. In addition, if the horse isn’t in regular work, that is an investment of time, skill, and money the potential buyer/adopter will have to invest in the horse beyond the purchase price.”

Registration for All

Beyond skills, for some prospective buyers, an individual horse’s registration status may play an important role when deciding whether to purchase him. Feeling connected to a greater organization and the ability to show and participate in that organization’s programs are all part of the bigger picture. In the past, particularly for those horses with unknown backgrounds, registration wasn’t always possible. But times are changing.

The Right Horse Initiative industry partner, the Pinto Horse Association of America, Inc. (PtHA), now makes enjoying the benefits of horse registration available to all horses, regardless of background. Emily Wolf, corporate partner and special events coordinator with the PtHA, helps explain the program, also available on the association’s website.

The organization maintains multiple registries, most notably the Color and the Solid registries. Horses registered with the Color Registry must meet the association’s white marking requirements, with underlying pink skin in the qualifying zone requirement, but do not have to be of documented parentage. These horses may also hold dual registration with an approved outcross breed. Certain characteristics, however, such as those associated with Appaloosas, are excluded from registration in the Color Registry. But non-characteristic Appaloosas with qualifying, eligible white may be registered in the Color Registry, according to Wolf.

Like the Color Registry, the Solid Registry accepts horses without documented parentage. Horses registered in this division do not meet the Color Registry requirements. Characteristic Appaloosa horses and colored POAs can also be registered here.

Almost any non-colored horse fits into the Solid Registry, and the registration process for both divisions is easy. Simply fill out the Solid Registry form and submit the required paperwork and fees. While membership is not required to register a horse with the association, an additional fee is assessed to non-members.

Registered horses and current members can enjoy full privileges, including showing and participation in the organization’s Select Opportunities and Rewards (SOAR) program. SOAR includes opportunities to earn prizes for time spent riding, driving, or working in-hand with your registered horse.

By necessity, other registries have stricter requirements, but still work with owners in support of registration. For example, Debbie Fuentes, registrar and senior director of Registry Services with the Arabian Horse Association (AHA), says that a key area of focus is keeping registration and transfer fees affordable to encourage current owners to register their horses and new owners to transfer ownership.

The AHA also works in partnership with owners to bring lapsed registration papers current. Registration allows owners to join the horse with his history, along with the ability to participate in shows and other incentive programs, such as the AHA’s Frequent Rider Program.

Regardless of your chosen registry, deciding to register a horse can also be an invaluable way to keep track of his show record, especially when he competes in a breed association’s recognized events. It’s a relatively inexpensive option that improves a horse’s overall marketability.

Keeping in Touch

Beyond training and registration, there are other steps you can take to ensure that your horse lands in the best possible situation.

◆ Recordkeeping: Keeping updated records on vaccination, deworming, dental exams, hoof care, and other health issues can help a potential buyer feel safe in the knowledge you are being transparent and that the animal has been well taken care of and is, therefore, a sound investment of their time and money.

◆ Microchips: Another industry partner of The Right Horse Initiative, Microchip ID Equine, is a company that allows you to attach your contact information to an individual horse. This provides a safety net for a previous owner to purchase a horse, should he end up in an auction-type situation that may lead to the horse being purchased by a kill pen buyer. (For more on microchipping, see “Chips Ahoy!” in the Nov./Dec. 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated). However, it’s worth noting that if a buyer plans to compete with the horse at sanctioned shows, they should check with their discipline governing bodies to see what microchips are accepted so as to avoid inserting multiple chips.

◆ Minimum sale price: Weiss recommends doing your research and setting a price for the animal that is above the current meat price, therefore discouraging potential kill pen buyers from considering the animal for purchase.

While it’s important not to make the sale of a horse so difficult that a potential buyer chooses to pass on a horse and continue their search, Weiss recommends these additional approaches when feasible.

◆ Right of first refusal agreement: Sometimes even the best situations just don’t work out. Having a formal right of first refusal agreement in place so that you can have the option to buy the horse back should he come up for sale under his new owner can help ensure that he finds a safe landing.

◆ Keeping track of your horse once he’s sold: One thing you can do is ensure your continued availability to answer questions should the horse develop a training problem, or even simply check in at regular intervals post-sale. Or you can ask the new owner to share pictures via email or social media so that you can keep track of his progress. While it can be rewarding to watch success stories unfold, it can also provide a window of opportunity for you to reach out should something go wrong.

“The option to buy that horse back, and then staying in touch, is imperative,” Weiss says. “When that horse sells five or six years down the road, [the new owner] may not remember there is a contract they were supposed to honor. Staying in touch is important from that perspective. Relationships are vital.”

One of the many benefits of adopting a horse is the relationships built and support systems established between the adoption organization and the adopter, which will ensure your adopted horse always has a safe place to land. The same guardrails can also be applied whenever a horse is sold.

By taking these steps, you can help ensure that you reap the satisfaction of watching your sales horse enjoy a good life beyond the one he once enjoyed with you.

This article about safe landings for horses appeared in the January/February 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Even a small thing like spray bottles can provide plenty of spook-inducing stimuli. Your horse hears the bottle’s swoosh. He feels the mist on his skin. He smells the spray. All of those sensations are unnatural to your horse—until you teach him that it won’t hurt. He must understand that if he relaxes and accepts it, the stimulus will go away. I like to use the “advance and retreat” technique to teach a horse to accept unfamiliar things. Instead of running away, it activates his investigative behavior.

Advance and Retreat

The first method that can be used for desensitizing your horse can be the advance and retreat method. Using this method, you’ll approach your horse with something new (advance), then stop and turn away when he is calm (retreat). This “advance and retreat process” allows your horse the time he needs to think. He can study what you’re holding, decide how he should react, and receive a reward when he is calm and accepting. The process gives your horse a sense of power over his fears; he learns how to make anything scary go away.

As soon as your horse’s tension begins to dissipate, his fear will convert to a sense of curiosity. A curious horse will follow you when you turn your back and walk away. You may also notice a step toward acceptance when your horse stops moving or running away.

Timing is Everything

When desensitizing your horse, timing is everything. Be sure to watch your entire horse to notice the changes in his tension level. Watch his eyes and facial expressions, his posture, the height of his head, and any turns away. Make sure you advance slowly so that you don’t miss the exact moment that he shows fear.

Keep in mind that all horses react differently. Some are stoic with signs of tension that you can easily miss. Other horses are obvious and react quickly.

Be careful not to remove the stimulus when your horse is reacting negatively. Whatever your horse is doing at the moment you release pressure is what you’re training him to do. If you approach with spray and stop spraying when your horse reacts, you train him to react, not to relax.

Advance & Retreat: A Step-by-Step Guide

• Slowly advance toward your horse while holding the stimulus (the spray bottle, hose, et cetera).
• At the moment your horse tenses, stop but keep holding the stimulus and keep your body posture strong.
• Wait. Once your horse lowers his head or exhales to show his relaxation, remove the stimulus by turning your back and walking away.
• Then repeat. If your timing is good, you’ll be able to approach closer to your horse each time.

Desensitizing Your Horse: Case Study

To get your horse used to spray bottles, outfit him in a rope halter and a lead that is 12 to 15 feet long. For training purposes, use a spray bottle full of water. Work in an area with good footing and without obstacles. You want your horse to be able to safely move away from you.

Stand about 6 feet from your horse and face him. Hold the lead in your left hand and the spray bottle in your right hand. Spray the water to your side or behind you—away from the horse. If your horse tends to be fearful, you can make a spraying sound by saying “shhhh” instead of holding the bottle. You’ll find out if your horse is afraid of the sound alone. If your horse doesn’t react at all when you spray the bottle away from him, it’s time to slowly advance.

Slowly change your aim, triggering the spray bottle toward your horse. As soon as your horse tenses, stop. Keep the pressure of the spray without moving it closer. Wait for your horse to relax, then immediately stop spraying and turn your back.

If your horse reacts and moves away from the spray, move with him, keeping a consistent distance to show him that moving away does not stop the feeling. Movement does not help him. Allow your horse to move in a circle around you until he decides to stop. If he stops circling or stepping to the side, immediately stop and turn your back.

Give your horse a moment to relax and think, then slowly turn and advance again. Look for the first sign of tension, then stop. Hold your ground. Notice any change your horse’s relaxation, then immediately turn away when you see a change. This is the starting point of the desensitizing process for your horse.

If your timing is good, you should be able to advance farther with the stimulus on each approach. However, the horse always determines how far you advance.

Work on one side of your horse at a time instead of switching back and forth. Your horse can only think with one side of his brain at a time. Once your horse has fully accepted the spray on one side, start training on the other.

Remember that your horse sets the pace. If your horse has a lot of fear about spray bottles before you start, it will probably take longer than one session. However, when advance and retreat is done correctly, you can accomplish a lot. Work for about 20 minutes at a time and advance as your horse will allow.

Once you are completely finished with the desensitize process of your horse, you should be able to approach your horse with spray if he is haltered or free. In the beginning, you’ll need to be able to control your horse. If you start the process without a halter, your horse will learn that he can run away from you when he’s scared.

Desensitization happens rapidly. Horses are very fast-learning animals, and when you notice your horse’s tension and change your actions quickly, he’ll learn quickly. If you take your time do your work at each step, it should not take subsequent sessions.

This article originally appeared in the December 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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You teach your horse how much to respect you and your space each time you lead him. While you may mindlessly grab a halter and casually walk your horse to his next destination, he pays attention to which behaviors you allow or correct. He notices when he can get his way and take charge.

The simple, everyday act of leading can define or erode your relationship if your horse gets away with too much. I often hear horse owners complain, “My horse pushes and pulls me around.” And, “My horse pulls me toward the grass and wants to eat when I’m walking him in from the field.” Or, “My horse won’t keep up with me. He’s always lagging behind.”

These complaints come when horse handlers overlook common leading mistakes. They don’t defend their personal space, they allow their horse to choose the destination, or they don’t correct the painfully slow walk. I’ll help you get your horse’s attention, so you can maintain your personal space and teach your horse to lead with perfect manners.

Time for Change

If your horse is pulling, pushing, or lagging behind, it’s time to change how you lead him—and what behaviors you allow. I want my horse to walk willingly beside me and know that he must pay attention to my speed and direction.

When I lead my horse, I have a reason to get to a new destination. I want him to keep up without dragging me, bumping me or getting too far behind. To correct any of these common mistakes, outfit your horse in a rope halter and a lead that is at least 12 feet long. Have a training stick with a flag on hand to help you reinforce your new cues.

Mistake 1: Losing Your Space

Why it’s a Problem: It’s dangerous to allow your horse to walk into your space or lean his shoulder into you. Your horse should pay attention to your movements and know where to stay. I like my horse to walk so that my right shoulder is just in front of his left eye. He should walk beside me without being close enough to bump into me. In this position, he can see where I’m moving and when I stop.

Most horses will obey the rules you set about where to be. However, they must first know where to be and what the rules are.

Your horse should only move his feet when you request it, he should keep his nose in front of his chest, he must move in the direction and speed you ask at the time you request it, and he should keep doing whatever you asked him to do until you provide a new cue. He should have deference for your space and be willing to step away quickly if he gets too close.

The Fix: First, check how you’re holding the leadrope. If you’re holding tightly just under your horse’s chin, you may be pulling him into your space. You can’t teach him to maintain his own position if you’re pulling on him. Instead, hold your right hand about a foot and a half from the halter knot and keep both of your hands up and in front of you.

Practice leading your horse with your new hand and body position. With your hands forward, your horse will learn to follow your hands. He’ll have a visual cue to know where you’re going. When he stays behind your hand, he’ll have ample time to change gaits, direction and speed by watching how you move.

Ask your horse to move forward by leaning forward with your upper body, then moving your feet; your hands will lead the way. Ask your horse to stop by leaning back, then stopping your feet. Your hands will raise up and signal your horse to stop. He will learn to focus on your body movement for cues and be rewarded with a loose lead line when he stays in position.

If your horse is getting too close to you, practice turning him away. Each time you turn him to the right (away from your leading position), you move him out of your space. The dominant horse in a herd always commands space and the subordinate horses move away. Each time you practice turning your horse away, you remind him that you’re in charge.

To turn to the right, turn your feet toward your horse and raise your hands to apply mental pressure just behind your horse’s eye. While you shouldn’t need to touch your horse, he should move away as you move toward him.

If he still doesn’t turn away, you may need to carry a flag to help defend your personal space. Turn your feet toward your horse and raise the handle end of the flag as you hold it in your right hand. The flag will brush the ground and cue the horse to move his feet away while you also teach your horse to respect your hand cues. Holding the flag extends your arm and provides a way for you to defend your personal space.

Lead your horse forward, then ask him to turn away from you again. Any time you lead your horse, you can practice turning away and reinforce your authority.

Mistake 2: Allowing the Grass Grab

Why it’s a Problem: Grabbing an extra snack means that your horse isn’t paying attention to where you’re going. Instead, he’s focused on what he wants. If you’re with your horse, it’s time to move and he should be focused on you, not the vegetation.

Grabbing grass means that your horse is choosing the destination and you can’t get where you want to go. Plus, in a herd, the horse that controls the food is dominant. If your horse pulls away to eat when you’re present, it’s a sign that he is in control and has little deference for you.

The Fix: Make sure your horse knows the rules. It’s possible that he’s been allowed to graze (or take one final bite) after he’s haltered. If he’s otherwise calm and respectful, he may simply need a reminder that he’s not to eat once you’re ready to walk on.

Given the opportunity, even the sweetest, best-trained horse would choose to eat instead of work. But if you halter your horse and ask him to move forward, he should stay with you and look where you’re going.

Lead with your hands up in front of you, just as you did to claim your space in the first exercise. If your horse stops to grab for food, bump the lead rope and use your voice to correct him. Yell, hiss or make whatever noise is needed to get his attention.

If you merely pull on the rope and he pulls again, you didn’t apply enough pressure to motivate change. Simply pulling again will only wear out your muscles and you’ll start a tug-of-war match with your horse. Elevate your pressure until your horse realizes he must snap-to and listen to your request.

Sometimes you want or need to allow your horse to graze while you’re with him. If you want your horse to eat, make sure that you have a clear cue to differentiate leading time and hand grazing time. The horse must clearly understand that you are giving him permission to eat.

You may extend the lead line so that it lays on the ground, then give your horse a verbal cue, such as “OK.” When it’s time to walk back to the barn, pick up the lead and ask your horse to move forward. Once you’re in leading position and walking with a purpose, he shouldn’t reach down to grab one last snack. If he does, correct him by pulling up quickly on the lead and give him a verbal admonishment.

Mistake 3: Tolerating a Slow Pace

Why it’s a Problem: If your horse lags too far behind, he may switch leading sides and wrap you in the rope. Plus, lagging behind shows that he isn’t attentive to your speed and is doing what he wants. It’s a sign of quiet defiance: you want him to move and he has a way to tell you that’s really not what he’d like to do.

The Fix: First, make sure to give a clear cue that you intend to move forward and faster. Move your shoulders and hands forward first as you ask your horse to move forward. This visual cue will help your horse see that a speed change is coming.

After you move your shoulders, speed up your feet. Your hand stays up and because your body moves forward, the lead will move, too.

If the horse doesn’t speed up as you want, he’ll feel a pull on the rope halter. The pressure on his halter should move him forward. If you want to trot, pick up a jog yourself. Keep looking where you want to go and allow the leadrope to tighten until your horse responds. When he picks up speed, allow slack in the line to praise him—but keep moving.

If your horse doesn’t speed up with your body cue and the tug on the halter, add some mental pressure. Have a buddy shake the flag behind you to reinforce your cue to move. As soon as the horse speeds up and stays at your pace, make sure that your leadrope is loose and your friend stops flagging. He’ll be rewarded by the release of the lead pressure (and the release from the mental pressure of the flag) and learn what’s expected.

If your horse is having trouble with several of these leading issues, focus on fixing one at a time. Once your horse understands one new rule, move on to work on the next.

Don’t suddenly transition from allowing everything to suddenly correcting every step and change of focus. Work first on maintaining your leadership; change your body posture and your mindset.

Have determination and purpose each time you lead your horse. If you look determined and confident, your horse will know he should follow well.

This article originally appeared in the October 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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There are many important skills for when the vet visits for your horse to learn, including standing still. Read for tips on preparing your horse for such a visit.

When an emergency is happening, it’s too late to train your horse to cooperate with the veterinarian. It’s frustrating for everyone involved when your horse nervously pulls away, dodges his head or steps away when the veterinarian is attempting to help. Your worry increases as your horse’s misbehavior escalates. Your veterinarian has a job to do and must find a way to place a stitch, clean a deep cut, or check out an injured eye. If your horse won’t cooperate, the vet will have to pause and administer a sedative.

If your horse is emotional and riled up when the veterinarian is present, he may not react well to sedatives. He may also develop a fear of the veterinarian or a fear of being touched where his injury is. And if your horse acts up in a dramatic fashion, it can endanger your vet.

I prefer not to have my horses tranquilized unless absolutely necessary. For routine care or surface-level wound care, I rely on my horse’s training and willingness to focus on me. If my horse knows the rules and stays calm, the veterinarian can quickly get the job done. If I can do something ahead of time to train the horse to be cooperative, I want to do that instead of administering sedatives.

If your horse can stand still on command, pick up and hold up his hooves, and tolerate touch in and around his eyes, ears and mouth, you can help your vet and remind your horse of his training when needed.

Patient Skills

Standing Still: Your horse should stand as still as a statue on command: posed with all four hooves on the ground and his nose straight in front of his chest. Once you give the command to stand still, your horse shouldn’t move a hoof unless asked to move. Also, your horse shouldn’t move to place his nose or mouth on the veterinarian.

Touching and “lipping” the vet or farrier (or anyone leaning over to work on your horse’s legs or hooves) can quickly lead to biting. Your horse should keep his head in front of his chest any time you ask him to stand still.

Teach your horse to stand still on command by outfitting him in a rope halter with an attached long lead. Ask your horse to stop after you place yourself in position. Stand slightly in front of your horse’s nose and out to the side, so that you’re safely out of his way if he decides to run forward. Point your feet toward your horse’s shoulder as you hold the long line with some slack.

You aren’t holding your horse still with your muscles, but teaching him he must stand still on his own. If your horse turns his head past the corner of his chest or moves a foot, snap your wrist to send a wave through the lead line. If your corrections are timed close to the moment your horse moves, he’ll quickly associate the consequence with his movement and learn to stand still.

Spend time with your horse regularly and practice this skill each time you lead him. If you practice regularly, your horse will remember the cue (your body position) and perform his stand-still routine when the veterinarian needs to examine him.

Pick Up and Hold: Your horse may easily pick up each hoof on command, but will he keep that hoof in the air for examination and treatment? It’s easy to train a horse to pick up his hooves, but many horses aren’t taught to keep their hooves up.

Hoof handling is also important if you need to place your horse’s hoof on the right spot for a radiograph or to provide treatment. You’ll need your horse to allow you to place his hoof where you want if you need to soak a hoof abscess or ice a leg wound.

To make sure your horse won’t jerk his hoof away during an exam (or any time you’re working with him), make sure you gently place his hoof down each time you pick his feet. Don’t drop your horse’s hooves, but purposefully place them down once you’re done. Your horse balances on you as you hold up his hoof, so it’s jarring if you drop it quickly. Plus, dropping the hoof will teach your horse that he can pull away. He won’t learn to pull away if you cautiously place his hoof down every time you handle his feet.

Handling: As you’re getting a horse used to being handled, make sure that you handle his ears and mouth. Your horse should accept touch everywhere. Make sure to routinely pet your horse all over. Make sure that your horse will accept your touch on his gums (to check capillary refill) as well as around his eyes, inside his ears, and under his belly and back legs. An injury can occur anywhere, so your horse must not fear being touched in any location.

Make this touch part of your grooming time. Don’t be rude or abrupt, and don’t endanger yourself by putting your fingers between your horse’s teeth, but gently rub a new area then take away pressure when he accepts it. If your horse raises his head or pulls away, stay with him and continue the touch. Once he relaxes, stop and turn your back to give him a release of pressure.

In the Moment: What can you do to help the veterinarian and keep your horse calm when the veterinarian is present? First, know where to stand and what your veterinarian needs to do. It’s usually best for you and the veterinarian to stand on the same side of your horse. This positioning will allow your horse to focus on just one side—instead of worrying about what’s happening on both sides of his body. It will also allow a scared horse to have a place to move into without running into a person.

You may need to distract your horse. Scratching your horse on the forehead or neck and talking to him can help keep his attention on you instead of the veterinarian. Sometimes I’ll tap rhythmically on my horse’s forehead. This seems to soothe him and give him something to focus on. If you’ve asked your horse to stand still, simply wiggling the rope may hold his attention (as long as that isn’t also your cue to back up).

What to do if He Won’t Stand Still

There may be a time when I have to restrain a horse with a shoulder twitch or by holding the halter. I might just twist the noseband of the halter to tighten it a bit. I can also take a hold of the lead rope so that the horse has a little more tension and reminder that he’s being held.

If your horse becomes fearful or agitated, ask your veterinarian to pause while you reset your horse or correct him for moving around. Remind your horse of his training. While you don’t want to make your vet wait through a lengthy training session, it’s fine to ask for a break if you think your horse may settle down.

Keep in mind that even the most well-mannered horse can become fearful if he’s hurt. And sometimes pain can be so great that even the best distractions don’t work. If you’ve worked with your horse to teach him manners and you’ve done all you can to help him stay calm, know that you’ve done your best. Your vet’s safety (and your own) are important, and there is a time and place for sedation.

Communicate clearly with your veterinarian and ask what you can do to help. Keep in mind that you’re both working together for your horse’s safety and health. Together with consistent training and clear communication when an emergency strikes, you can help your horse be the best possible patient.

This article about teaching your horse to stand still originally appeared in the February 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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