How Fly Spray Works

Although fly spray is a familiar product to horse owners, you may not have given much thought to how it works or what’s in the bottle.

“Fly repellents work by either repelling flies or killing them upon contact,” says Erika T. Machtinger, Ph.D., assistant professor of entomology at Pennsylvania State University in State College, Penn. “Repellents contain active ingredients that emit an odor or taste that flies find unpleasant and will try to avoid. Some fly repellents work by combining both repelling and killing properties. These repellents contain a combination of active ingredients that repel flies and contain insecticides that kill them upon contact.”

Active Ingredients

Most companies will list features and benefits on the front of the label, says Casey White, an entomologist and senior director of technical services and innovation for Central Life Sciences, Farnam’s research and development division.

“If it’s something that kills and repels, it’ll say ‘kills and repels’ or ‘insecticide and repellent.’ Often, it’ll call out major species of insects or arthropods, such as ticks, that the product is effective against.”

The small print is where you should pay attention to the listed ingredients, including the number and type of active ingredients and their percent concentration. The active ingredients are what give the product its killing and repelling power.

Active ingredients can be either natural or synthetic. Pyrethrins are a natural insecticide derived from the chrysanthemum flower. These offer knockdown benefits but break down quickly when exposed to sunlight. Pyrethroids are synthetic versions designed to have longer-lasting action; these include permethrin, cypermethrin, tetramethrin, and others.

Essential oils such as citronella, geraniol, eucalyptus, thyme, cedar oil, lemongrass, rosemary oil, and clove oil are natural options to repel insects. Fatty acids are another type of natural repellent, including octonoic, nonanoic, and decanoic acid.

Other ingredients include synergists, which work to amplify the active ingredients to provide greater killing power and/or longer-lasting protection. One of the most common is piperonyl butoxide (PBO). Others include butoxypolypropylene glycol and n-octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide (MGK 264).

Comparing Products

Looking at the list of active ingredients and their percentages is one way to compare products and select the one that you think will work best for your needs.

“Formulas that use newer technology and a higher level of active ingredients cost more to make,” says Amy Cairy, vice president of marketing for W.F. Young, makers of Absorbine. For these reasons, you can expect many of the best-selling fly sprays to come with a higher price tag, she notes.

Along with comparing the levels of active ingredients, it’s also important to look at the recommended application rate, says White. A product may look like it’s half the concentration of a comparative product, but if you have to apply twice as much of it, he points out that you’re essentially applying the same amount of active ingredient—just in a more dilute form.

Fly Spray Formulation

In addition to the active ingredients, a product’s formulation is another difference to consider. Most fly sprays can be categorized as oil- or water-based, and there are pros and cons to each type.

Oil-based sprays have staying power, but can attract dirt and dust and may be irritating to horses with sensitive skin. If you see “contains petroleum distillate” on the list of ingredients, that’s the tipoff that it’s an oil-based spray.

Water-based sprays are non-irritating and less of a magnet for dust, but will likely need to be reapplied more frequently.

Many horse owners prefer all-natural formulas using essential oils and plant extracts as an alternative to chemical sprays.

Long-lasting sweat and water-resistant formulas contain ingredients that help the product stick to the hair shaft. These are designed to hold up well to rain and sweat under normal turnout and working conditions, says Cairy.

However, she notes that if you rinse your horse with a hose, sponge him off, or bathe him with shampoo, you are removing the product from the horse’s hair and should reapply the fly spray afterward.

Coat conditioners and sunscreen are other bonus ingredients you might find in a fly spray.

Choosing the Right Fly Spray

The right fly spray can depend on several factors.

“First, consider the type of flies that are prevalent in your area and choose a spray that targets those specific types of flies,” says Machtinger. “Next, consider your horse’s individual needs, such as any skin sensitivities or allergies. It’s also important to consider the spray’s effectiveness and how long it will last, and finally the ease of application and whether it requires dilution or not.”

The local climate and weather conditions, such as heat and humidity, as well as what you are doing with your horse also influence your choice of fly spray. You may want to have a few different kinds in your kit with different features and formulations. The fly spray you use right before you go in the show ring might be different than the one you’d use to turn your horse out in the field.

“For example, if you have a horse that is easily bothered by a wide variety of flies or is reactive to insect bites, you’ll want to find a long-lasting, broad-spectrum fly spray that both kills and repels insects,” says Cairy. “Or if you live where it’s hot and humid or have a horse that is prone to heavy sweating, you’ll want to reach for a fly spray that binds to the horse’s hair shaft and won’t sweat off.”

Not Enough

One of the biggest fly spray mistakes is simply user error. Either not applying enough, not using the product according to the directions, or selecting the wrong type of product for the insect species you are dealing with.

How do you know if you’re applying the recommended amount of fly spray? Cairy suggests counting sprays and measuring how many it takes to reach the recommended amount, then using that for future reference. (About 45 sprays is what she has found it takes to reach a typical 2-ounce application.)

Pest Resistance

If you find that your go-to fly spray doesn’t seem to be as effective, there may be a reason for that.

“In addition to the method of application, the effectiveness of these products can depend on the toxicity of the active ingredient to flies, and local pest resistance,” says Machtinger. “Flies can quickly develop a resistance to the active ingredients in many fly sprays (or already are resistant to them), reducing or in some cases eliminating their effectiveness.”

Pesky house flies are among the most affected by insecticide resistance. Fortunately, Machtinger reports, newer fly spray formulations using natural ingredients such as fatty acids and plant extracts have proven to be effective and longer-lasting in laboratory tests. The 2019 published study she led also suggests that formulation differences among pyrethroid products can significantly affect their efficacy.

“We do see some resistance to fly sprays, particularly permethrin,” says Cairy. “When horse owners start thinking, ‘My fly spray isn’t working the way it used to,’ we recommend that they rotate to one with a different formulation.”

When rotating products, look for something with an active ingredient that works differently than what you have been using, such as a different chemical class, advises White.

“Many of the on-animal sprays have the same mode of action, which makes incorporating other fly management tools even more important.”

Other Fly Management

There are many other things horse owners can do to help keep fly populations down, including good sanitation and manure management, and taking steps to eliminate fly breeding habitats and disrupt their life cycle.

“Scatterbaits, fly traps, feed-through larvicidal products and larvicides applied directly to fly development areas are other options that should be incorporated into a good integrated pest management (IPM) program,” says White.

It might seem like a fly is just a fly, but it’s important to try to identify what fly species you are dealing with, because they aren’t all created equal when it comes to fly control.

“To prevent flies on horses, it’s important to first understand which species of fly is the pest,” says Machtinger. “Each species will have different methods of control that are effective.”

She emphasizes the need to use a variety of tools in combination, such as good stable management and hygiene, fly masks and sheets, and species-specific fly traps.

Flies are a nuisance, but armed with the right knowledge and tools, it’s possible to fight back.

Further Reading
◆ Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things
◆ Using Parasitoids for Fly Control
◆ Understanding Fly Spray Labels

This article about fly spray appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fly Spray 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

1. Manure Management

Probably the single most important way of fly control is proper disposal of horse manure. Stable flies, the most annoying of all the biting flies that bother horses, breed in manure. Houseflies also prefer manure for reproduction.

The best way to keep these fly numbers down is to frequently remove manure from your horse’s stall or paddock. Barn aisles, turnout areas and riding arenas should also be cleaned. Clean at least once a day; more often if you can.

Once manure is scooped up, it should be taken to a manure pile far away from the barn or stored in a covered dumpster until you can remove it from your property.

Soiled bedding is another favorite spot for flies to lay their eggs. Remove wet shavings or straw from your horse’s stall every day to keep the fly population down.

2. Moisture Control

Flies love moisture and seek out wet areas to breed. Search your property for leaks from faucets, sprinklers and pipes. Look for areas where rain water gathers, too.

If your horse has a favorite spot in his stall or paddock to urinate, you can bet that flies are laying their eggs there. Put down moisture-absorbing materials to help soak up the urine. In box stalls, keep urine to a minimum with frequent cleanings and by using highly absorbent bedding.

3. Biological Controls

An eco-friendly way to combat flies is to use biological methods. Tiny parasitic wasps are widely available, and work by destroying the fly larvae before it can hatch. Signing up for a monthly delivery of these predatory insects during fly season can help keep the fly population down at your barn.

Harmless to humans and so small you can barely see them, the wasps are shipped still in the egg stage. Once a few of the wasps hatch in the plastic bag after delivery, you sprinkle the contents in and around your horse’s living area.

4. Traps

Available in a variety of different types, fly traps work by attracting flies, either through color or scent. Once the fly lands on or enters the trap, it can’t escape and eventually dies.

The simplest type of fly trap uses a sticky surface to capture flies. The flies are drawn to the color—usually orange or yellow—and land on it. The glue-covered surface sticks to their feet, keeping them from flying away. Other traps use bait to lure the fly inside. Some traps have water inside, and the flies drown because they can’t escape. Others simply trap them inside the container, where they die due to lack of food and water.

Sticky fly traps can be hung anywhere flies congregate, but should be safely out of reach of curious horses. Baited traps should be placed far from stalls since they will initially attract more flies to the area before the insects become trapped.

5. Barn Fans

Flies tend to be less active when there’s a strong breeze, as wind affects their ability to fly. So create your own wind! Barn fans hung from the ceiling over each stall and in the barn aisles can do wonders for keeping flies out of the area. Freestanding fans can also be used in barn aisles.

6. Stable Management

The environment surrounding your horses can have a big effect on the number of flies at your facility. Practicing good barn keeping will keep flies to a minimum.

Start by making sure all garbage cans are securely covered. An open trash can will draw flies from near and far. Keep feed storage containers covered as well since some grains and sweet feeds can attract flies. Clean up spilled feed right away, especially if it’s wet.

Be sure to dispose of any rotting hay on the property since this is the perfect breeding environment for flies. The combination of moisture and organic material is a haven for these pests. Also, avoid using straw as bedding since wet straw is a magnet for flies.

7. Fly Sprays

Both insecticidal sprays and repellents discourage flies from landing on your horse.

Oil-based sprays have more staying power on horses than water-based products, and both are best used in conjunction with other types of fly control. They should not be used in the vicinity of parasitoid wasps, however, since the beneficial insects are also susceptible to insecticides.

When applying fly sprays, be sure to use an adequate amount as directed on the label. If you don’t coat the horse’s hair with the spray, flies can still land and bite. For applying around the eyes, ears and muzzle, spray the product onto a washcloth and wipe it onto the horse’s face. You can also use a roll-on insecticide for these delicate areas.

8. Cover-Ups

No matter how good your fly control methods, it’s impossible to get rid of every single fly. To protect your horse from these biting pests, use cover-ups.

Fly masks are the most effective way to protect your horse from flies. Face flies are notorious for feeding on the mucus in your horse’s eyes, causing irritation and potentially spreading disease. You can also use a mask with attached ear covers to keep biting gnats out of his ears.

A fly sheet prevents flies from landing directly on your horse’s body. The lightweight mesh blanket protects your horse’s chest, back, sides and hindquarters from biting flies. Add mesh leg wraps to protect the lower legs, and flies will have a hard time finding a place to bite your horse.

By using these methods, you can make a big impact on the number of flies that live on your property and pester your horses.

9. Spray Systems

In a barn environment, an overhead fly spray system can be effective at keeping fly populations down. Spray systems release a repellent or insecticidal mist periodically throughout the day. The spray comes down onto the horses and prevents flies from landing and biting. The system can be designed to spray directly into both stalls and barn aisles.

After installing a spray system in your barn, choose the type of insecticide or repellent you want to use. If you are concerned about introducing chemical fly products into the environment, opt for natural formulations.

10. Supplements

Supplements designed to prevent flies from breeding in manure or to discourage flies from biting are another option for your horse. Insect growth regulators (IGR) are chemicals that disrupt the fly’s ability to reproduce by affecting the pupa stage in the life cycle. When the active ingredient in the IGR is present in the horse’s manure, the fly larvae can’t develop to adulthood.

A feed-through product containing an IGR is added daily to the horse’s food, and then passes through the horse and is deposited with the manure. The IGR has no effect on the horse, but wreaks havoc on the fly population.

Natural supplement formulas containing garlic, apple cider, yeast and other ingredients with natural fly-repelling properties are reported to discourage flies from biting. These products must be fed daily to be effective.

Further Reading on Fly Control for Horses and Barns

◆ Natural Insect Repellents for Horses
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things

This article about fly control for horses and barns appeared in the July 2015 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post 10 Ways to Banish Flies from the Barn appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Flies love to land on horses’ lower legs, and even the most diligent fly spray regimen can’t always prevent stomping-related cracked and chipped hooves or loose and lost shoes. There is more at stake than gallons of fly spray and dust clouds in the paddock. Are you ready to stop the stomp and help your horse?

That symphony of stomps you hear as you approach your horse’s pasture can be an ominous warning sign of hoof problems to come. If you start to see hoof health deteriorate as summer progresses, you may soon be facing increased farrier bills and even a horse that need time off.

Be a Keen Observer

What’s a horse owner to do? First, make a plan—but make it early in the summer, before the flies take over.

The first step is to understand that the sound of a horse stomping the ground may mean different things, and you must be dedicated to checking your horse several times a day.

Stomping at flies is a normal reaction for horses when flies buzz around and land on lower legs. But a horse will also stomp the ground if he has unearthed a wasp’s nest or biting-ant hill in the ground; he may need your help, especially in a small pen.

Likewise, a horse may be nervously pawing the ground, not stomping. If you hear the sound of stomping when you shouldn’t, don’t assume that your horse is reacting to flies. Always investigate unusual sounds coming from a pen or pasture.

Next, learn what is “normal” for flies in your area and on your farm. Some areas cycle through different types and densities of flies over the course of the summer.

Flies may bother horses more or less at different times of the day, or in different weather conditions. Make notes about what you notice about the flies around your horse and around your barn, in general. If your horse prefers a certain part of a paddock, it may be because there are fewer flies or the ground is softer and pounding isn’t so jarring.

If your horse is sensitive to biting flies, have topical astringents and healing ointments on hand to dab broken skin and welts. Exposed wounds on the lower legs will attract even more flies. Be prepared to call your vet if sudden swelling occurs.

Learn all you can about horse behavior in the pasture. Horses can become habitual stompers, and tales are told of fly-weary horses who kept on stomping even on windy days when no flies bothered their legs.

Fly Stomping Causes Problems for Feet

Fly stomping can wreak havoc on hooves. Shod horses may experience raised clinches, a loosening of the nails’ grip on the hoof wall. The clinches may suddenly feel rough to the touch.

Ragged clinches may cause cuts and scrapes on the hands and thighs of riders and grooms who pick up hooves for cleaning, and rip or catch on an expensive pair of breeches. They’re another good reason to wear long pants around horses in the summer.

Loose shoes are a special danger when horses are shod with clips. Clips prevent shoes from shifting, but a horse can step down on a loose shoe’s clip and damage his hoof wall or sole. A shoe that comes completely off is a danger to all the horses in a pasture, since any of them can step on its exposed nails or protruding clips.

Frayed “potato chip” feet are common in the summer and worsen as fall approaches. Stomping at flies may make brittle hoof walls worse.

Superficial wall cracks are also common in stomping horses, but a crack that penetrates the wall requires the attention of a farrier. It may worsen over the course of the summer if the horse is stomping repeatedly.

Notify your farrier if you see problems developing so they can be treated before resulting in lameness or requiring special shoeing.

Fighting Off Flies

Horses have their pet peeves. One hates wearing leg wraps. Another fears the sound of sprays and won’t stand still for application. Learn each horse’s fly-related idiosyncrasies, inform everyone who cares for the horse, and find workarounds so every horse has as ideal protection from flies as possible to prevent fly stomping.

What’s in your fly spray? Respect anyone around your barn—whether horse or human—who may be sensitive to fly-control chemicals.

Know how much and how often products should be used. Your paddock fly-control practices should suit the severity of your problem, your horse’s turnout schedule, and your environmental priorities.

10-Step Plan to Eliminate Foot Problems Related to Fly Stomping

1. Think ahead. Keep a calendar and mark when the flies start appearing, what times of day they are the worst, and dates when you notice different types and densities of flies and mosquitoes. Also mark days for manure removal. Likewise, make note of weather, and notice paddock areas that have more or fewer stomping horses.

2. Check each foot on your horse before and after turnout. Look for loose or sprung clinches, bent or gaping shoes, and traces of dried blood that indicate stomp-related skin damage. Examine the insides of legs and pasterns.

3. Try using fly boots. If using repellent, too, apply to both the inside and the outside of the leg from the knee or hock down.

4. Don’t turn out horses near manure piles in summer. Remember that flies love manure, so a horse’s feet and lower legs are already often in close range for a fly. Be diligent about picking out your paddocks so you can deprive flies of the manure they seek.

5. Walk your pastures and look for lost shoes. If you find one, note the location and date found and the name of the horse, if known. Check that horse for hoof damage. Your farrier may be able to re-use the found shoe if it’s in good shape.

6. Quickly address shoes that are partially detached. First, call your farrier. You may be instructed to secure the shoe with duct tape or cover the entire foot with Vetrap and keep the horse in a stall until it can be fixed.

7. Learn to remove a loose or bent shoe. If you’re unsure how to do this, purchase a basic set of farrier tools and ask your farrier to teach you. Store the tools in a clean, dry place and don’t use them for anything but horseshoes.

8. Have your horse on a regular trimming or shoeing schedule. Six weeks is normal, but some horses may need shorter intervals, especially in summer. Don’t be tempted to skip or reschedule an appointment in the summer. Overgrown feet and worn shoes that are left on too long put a horse at risk.

9. Not stomping may be a problem, too. Senior horses, laminitics, or ringbone sufferers will especially appreciate diligent lower-leg fly defense. Is there a horse that’s not stomping at the flies, even though he’s in the same paddock with horses who are? It’s possible that the horse is in pain and doesn’t want to slam a sore foot onto the ground.

10. Stomping feet may be only part of the problem. Make sure your horse is up to date on vaccinations for insect-related diseases. A variety of serious infectious horse diseases are carried by horse flies and mosquitoes.

Flies are a fact of life around horses in the summer. They are a nuisance, but they can also cause problems that will gradually compromise a horse’s wellbeing. Horses instinctively stomp their feet when they sense flies.

Your horse will thank you for stopping the stomp before his hooves are damaged.

This article about fly stomping affecting hooves appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

While for most horses, insects are just a nuisance, but some are incredibly sensitive to insect bites, have chronic inflammation from Lyme disease, or have allergic reactions and cannot use commonly used chemical sprays. So what are some natural, but effective alternatives to use as insect repellents for horses? See below for some great options.

Natural Insect Sprays for Horses

◆ Ecovet Fly Repellent uses naturally occurring fatty acids to confuse an insect’s natural GPS so they cannot locate your horse. They actually get confused and fly in circles!
◆ Nature’s Defense by Farnam is a water-based spray that uses common essential oils meant to deter flies, mosquitos, and gnats.
◆ Nature’s Force Natural Fly Repellent uses essential oils that bugs avoid, such as clove, thyme, cinnamon, and lemongrass.
◆ BugPellent Cylinder is a solid insect repellent meant to hang in the barn to naturally deter flying insects.
◆ Essentials Insect Repellent by Animal Bodywork & Aromatherapy is a handmade, custom blend of essential oils to gently repel common insects and cling to the hair for 24 hours.
◆ Catnip? Studies have shown that catnip is more effective at repelling flies and mosquitos than DEET. Add some to your favorite DIY blend with a carrier oil and your horse will thank you.

Supplements

Supplements containing garlic are intended to be ingested and protect your horse from nasty insects from the inside out, all while helping to balance a healthy immune system. These products include garlic.

◆ SmartPak’s Smart Bug Off supports healthy skin and a normal inflammatory response in a tasty pellet form with no added sugar.
◆ Springtime Supplements Bug-Off Garlic provides a 24-hour shield against flies, ticks, mosquitoes, gnats, no-see-ums, and other flying pests as a supplement you add to your horse’s feed.
◆ Redmond Rock Crushed with Garlic is added to your horse’s feed, which encourages hydration as well for those horses that don’t drink enough and who are sensitive to insect bites.
◆ Manna Pro Nature’s Force Bug Clear includes garlic, turmeric (200 mg), grape seed extract, Brewer’s dried yeast, diatomaceous earth and more.

Mineral Powder

◆ Tick Natural Terminator (TNT) is a small business dedicated to toxin and chemical-free prevention. According to the brand’s patent application: “The present invention is unique because of the presence of dried ground mint, which repels aphids; white flies, and others; dried ground oregano, which repels most insects; food-grade silicon dioxide, which adheres to insect and tick exoskeletons as they crawl through it, dehydrating their exoskeletons, which kills them mechanically instead of chemically.”

Sonic Repellent

The effectiveness of ultrasound to repel ticks and other insects has not been clinically proven, but there are a number of them on the market to plug into your barn sockets or even attach to your animal. While primarily geared to dogs and cats, the Only Natural’s Pet Tick Tag and the SonicGaurd Horse Ultrasonic Tick and Flea Repeller emit a frequency that is meant to naturally repel insects when worn on the body. Braid it into your horse’s mane or attach it to their halter if worn regularly during turnout.

Insect Eaters and Traps

Removing pests from the barn is easier said than done, but less bugs mean less insects biting you and your animals.

◆ Chickens or Guinea Hens! While they may not help the flies, they do eat ticks and other small insects as well as scratch at the manure and disperse it among the paddock to prevent large manure piles that attract flies.
◆ Fly Predators by Spalding Labs is used in a natural environment as a natural enemy that serves as a major check of pest fly populations by destroying the next generation of flies in their immature pupa (cocoon) stage, which breaks the gestation and multiplication cycle naturally.
◆ EZ Trap Fly Trap is an adhesive fly trap with a large surface for trapping flies.
◆ RESCUE! Disposable Hanging Fly Trap is hung outdoors and will easily catch up to 20,000 flies.

And while not technically an insect repellent, the Shoofly Leggins do a wonderful job keeping creeping crawlers from climbing up your horse’s legs and keep the stomping and resulting cracked hooves to a minimum.

Prevention is always the best option when it comes to pests. While no insect repellent is 100% effective, combine some natural alternatives that prevent and repel without adding toxic chemicals to your sensitive horse.

The post Natural Insect Repellents for Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Things that fly, bite and bother your horse are in the air, and in the gut. Whether you board your horse or have your pony at home, now is the time to think about parasite control for horses to protect your equine friend from pesky pests like worms and flies before they cause problems.

Fly Control

As the weather warms, flying insects of all kinds start to emerge at the barn. You may notice your horse start to swish his tail on a calm day in the pasture or nip at his flank while you’re on a trail ride. Not only are flies annoying, but they can also irritate your horse’s skin and spread disease. Learning how to manage flies early in the season means you’ll be a pro at fly control by summer when they are even more of a menace.

The first step in effective fly control is good barn hygiene. Make sure manure is picked up in the barn aisles and stalls are cleaned daily. Also keep fresh water in your horse’s buckets. Manure and stagnant water are prime breeding grounds for bugs that bite, including mosquitoes.

Next, don’t fear the fly spray. As a horse sweats, sprays wear off, so a good routine is to spray your horse in the morning and in the evening, and before you ride. Don’t forget to re-apply if you bathe your horse.

Hold the spray about 6 inches away from your horse’s body and apply up and down his legs and under his belly and up the neck. Face application is important, too, but be careful. Many horses don’t like to be sprayed in the face, so applying spray to a clean cloth and wiping your horse’s ears and around his eyes is better, especially so spray doesn’t accidentally get in the horse’s eyes. There are also fly wipes specifically made for this. A fly sheet and fly mask may also be a solution if your horse has sensitive skin.

Finally, don’t forget about the secret weapon against flying insects: a good breeze. Wind makes it impossible for flies (and mosquitoes) to land on your horse, and no landing means no biting. If your horse’s stall has a window, open it when possible. A fan in the stall or in the barn aisle can also be a huge help in preventing pests from bothering your horse (make sure to use a fan rated for farm or industrial use so the motor is sealed off from dust and there is less risk of fire).

Parasites

Internal parasites, also called worms, are common in horses because immature worms (larvae) live on blades of grass and are passively eaten when a horse grazes. Larvae emerge in pastures in the spring. These larvae then develop into adult worms within the horse’s intestines.

While this sounds gross, it’s really important to realize that a small number of worms typically does not harm a healthy adult horse. However, large worm infections can cause problems, like diarrhea, weight loss and sometimes colic.
Equine parasite control can be done with one of several deworming drugs made for this purpose, but not all horses need to be treated. So how do you know if your horse needs a dewormer?

In the spring, ask your vet to do a test called a fecal egg count. To do this, your vet will take a sample of your horse’s manure, mix it with a special liquid, and look at the sample under a microscope. Parasite eggs are shed in your horse’s manure, so if your horse has worms, their eggs are seen as small oval shapes under the microscope.

Don’t worry if your horse’s manure is positive for eggs; this is very common. What’s most important is the number of eggs. Your vet will count them and tell you how many she finds. If there are many eggs—typically over 200—your vet may recommend treating your horse with a dewormer.

If there are fewer eggs, this indicates a mild infection, and your horse typically won’t need treatment unless he is young or otherwise sick. Not overusing dewormers helps prevent the development of resistance by the parasite to these important drugs.

To help control worms on the farm, remove manure piles in small pastures and paddocks to prevent the spread of worm eggs. Not allowing your horse to overgraze a pasture is important, too. Grass should be kept about 3 to 4 inches tall—shorter than that and it’s time to move your horse to another field, if possible, to allow the grass to re-grow.

With a little planning and awareness, you and your horse can be worry-free from worms and flies this spring!

This article about flies, worms, and more appeared in the Spring 2020 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Flies, Worms and Yucky Things appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Noble Outfitters Guardsman Fly Mask

Flex spine creates a canopy away from the horse’s eyes. A removable nose attachment provides full coverage. Made exclusively for SmartPak.
$24.95; www.smartpak.com

Farnam Dual Defense

Protect horse and human from mosquitoes, ticks and biting flies for up to
12 hours. Sprays upside-down for easy application.
$22.97; www.farnam.com

Kensington Uviator Protective Mask

Constructed with Textilene Solar Screen that has a 90% UV rating. Features a
double locking lead rope fastener.
$59.99 (standard), $79.99 (ears and nose); www.kensingtonproducts.com

SmartPak Ultimate Fly sheet

Comfortable mesh can recover from small tears on its own. Comes with three-year durability guarantee. Detachable neck cover included.
$159.95; www.smartpak.com

Absorbine Ultrashield Ex Insecticide and Repellent

Redesigned bottle sprays upside down and features vertical and horizontal fan spray settings to reduce waste. Semi-ratchet closure eliminates leakage.
$22.95; www.absorbine.com

Weatherbeeta Comfitec AirFlow Detatch-a-NecK

Protect your horse from insects with cooling mesh. Elasticized, adjustable belly wrap offers greater coverage. Includes Ezi-Clip front closure.
$109.99; www.weatherbeeta.com

Smartpak Deluxe Relaxed Fit Fly Boots

Protect legs from flies with soft but durable mesh. Relaxed fit design helps keep boots in place.
$32.95; www.smartpak.com

Weatherbeeta Stretch Bug Eye Saver with Ears

Soft nylon mesh mask with raised eye mesh inserts for unobstructed vision. Adjustable touch-tape closure for ultimate fit.
$17.95; www.weatherbeeta.com

Kool Kurtains

Create a cool, bug-free haven for your horses. Adds shade and permits airflow in run-in sheds, barns, stalls, trailers and arenas.
Starting at $69.95 for 7-foot panel; www.koolkurtains.com

Shires Equestrian Fine Mesh Fly Mask with Nose Fringe

Keep even the smallest insects away with air stream fabric on ears and fly fringe on the muzzle.
$27.99; www.shop.shiresequestrian.com

Amigo Three-in-One Evolution

Waterproof turnout and fly protection in one. Waterproof/breathable fabric top
with net sides and integrated neck cover. Aqua/orange color combo deters insects.
$179.95; www.shop.horseware.com

This article about new fly products originally appeared in the July 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fly Away: New Fly Products for Summer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

It may seem early to be thinking about bug season, but a little planning can go a long way when it comes to battling the bugs. With the right preparation and proactive fly control, victory can be yours this fly season!

As you prepare, it’s important to remember that there’s more you can do than go through bottle after bottle of fly spray. When it comes to solving your bug problem, having a barn-wide system that has every area of your farm covered is key. Your system should include everything from environmental control to insect defense supplements to fly sheets, fly masks, and fly spray.

To learn more about how to choose the right fly control products for your horse and your farm, visit SmartPak.com/FlySolutions.

Thumbs Down: Waiting Until You See Bugs to Stock Up on Insect Control Products

If you wait until the flies arrive to get your insect control products, you’ll be playing catch-up all season long! If you’re planning to use an insect defense supplement, be sure to start your horse on it about four weeks before the start of fly season.

You’ll also want to check to make sure that your horse’s physical barrier of protection, such as his fly sheet, fly mask, and fly boots are in good shape and still fit him. When you start early, you’ll have plenty of time to get the right if your horse needs new gear.

Finally, instead of having to dig through your tack trunk for last year’s fly spray leftovers when you really need it, make sure you’ve got fresh fly spray on hand ahead of time. With proactive fly control ahead of time instead of waiting until you really need all of your insect control products to get them, you’ll be ready for fly-free rides from the start!

The post March 2019 SmartPak SmartTip of the Month: Proactive Fly Control appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.