A staple piece of tack for many West Coast western riders, romal reins can be a bit of a mystery if you learned how to ride in the eastern parts of the United States. While this rein started as a reined cow horse mainstay, its use has spread across the country, particularly in cattle classes, ranch classes, reining and trail.

Interested in trying this style of rein? American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) Professional Horseman Cathy Woosley Luse of Whitesboro, Texas, shares how to get started.

What are Romal Reins?

Unlike split reins, romal reins are on one hand a closed rein. But in contrast to roping reins, they also has a second half connected to the reins: the romal, which is a single length of rein with a popper, or “quirt,” on the end.

Some types of romal reins have buttons or “ferrules” along the length of the reins. Riders hold a romal rein much differently than either split or roping reins.

“They can be made out of braided rawhide, leather, or even braided kangaroo [leather], which has a great soft feel to it,” Woosley Luse says.

Where to Use

While you should always check the rule book for the class in which you’re competing, you can most likely use romal reins in just about any judged western class, including horsemanship, trail, western riding and ranch horse classes.

“They’re of West Coast origin, especially used on the ranch while working with cattle, where you don’t want to lose a rein,” Woosley Luse says. “They’re used most often in cow horse classes.”

Note: Romal reins are only used with shanked bits, not snaffle bits or bits with rings.

Why Use a Romal?

Woosley Luse loves recommending romal reins for novice riders because they’re a great way to learn how to keep your rein length even. They’re also good for a rider who wants to improve their use of neck reining. They help keep the horse upright and in the middle of the reins and can help a horse hold his head and neck correctly.

“Romal reins really make you use your legs, because it restricts how you can use the rein to ‘help’ your horse along,” Woosley Luse says. “You’ve got to resort to your other aids to communicate with your horse.”

Even if you never plan to show in romal reins, using them on your horse at home is a great test of the skills you and your horse possess.

“I like to introduce them and see if the horse is really trained through all areas of his body,” she adds. “You can see their progress with romal reins on.”

Myth-Busting

Some riders may think judges have a preference of one type rein or another, but Woosley Luse says this isn’t the case.

“The misconception is that classes are judged differently for a horse wearing romal reins, and I don’t think that’s true,” she says. “I think the judges are really looking at the performance—not the reins you’re using.”

How to Hold

You’ll hold both reins together with one hand below the connector to the romal. Place both reins together on your palm with the romal end coming out on top as you make a fist around the reins. “It’s kind of like holding an ice cream cone, and your fingers have to be closed,” says Woosley Luse.

Your free hand will hold the romal about 16 inches further down. Depending on your discipline, you’ll either hold that fist palm down on your thigh or hold it near your waist with your elbow close to your side.

“That 16 inches between your rein hand and your free hand creates a loop that falls a bit forward,” she explains.

There’s a couple of methods to adjust your reins for length. The easiest is to “pull slack” by opening the fist holding your reins and pulling the romal tail with your free hand until you reach the desired length. But this is not legal to do while moving in some classes, such as reining, so check the rule book carefully.

“But you can do it when your horse is sitting still in the center of the arena or demonstrating a hesitation,” Woosley Luse says.

If you need to adjust rein length while moving, you’ll “jump the rein” by opening your rein hand and quickly moving your hand down or up the reins, then closing your fist. Woosley Luse prefers pulling slack whenever possible.

Don’t touch the reins with the hand that is holding the romal tail. Keep your rein hand closed. Also make sure not to put a finger in between your reins when using romal reins in competition.

The correct way to use them is to move your rein hand from side to side, front to back, solely focused on neck rein guidance. This is where additional aids, such as your legs, can help guide your horse.

“You don’t use a direct rein with romal reins, so you’re really leaning on your neck rein cues,” she says. “It’s all about shoulder control.”

Special thanks to Addison Coutts for modeling these reins at Lybbert Performance Horses in Whitesboro, Texas.

The post Using Romal Reins to Improve Communication appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

• You can ride western in a snaffle or curb bit, depending on what your horse goes best in.
• Your saddle should fit your horse comfortably, not rubbing on his withers.
• Western saddles typically have a simple cinch, but some require a latigo knot.

Are you new to western riding? If so, you’re in luck! Here’s a quick overview of how to tack up, western style.

Western Bridle Basics

When you tack up your horse in western tack, be sure to find a right bridle for him. Western headstalls come in two basic styles. One has a browband, much like an English headstall. The other style, called a “split ear,” lacks a browband. This type only goes around one ear. For general purposes, you can choose whichever style you prefer to use.

There’s a wide variety of western bits available, from simple snaffles to curb bits with shanks. Be sure to use the type of bit that works best for your horse.

Snaffle bits are ideal for green horses and those guided by direct rein aids, like an English horse. A snaffle must fit correctly. There should be a slight smile (not a fold or wrinkle) at each corner of his mouth.

Curb bits, which include a shank, should only be used on horses that already know how to neck rein. They sit lower in the mouth than a snaffle, creating only a gentle lift at the corners of the mouth. Curb bits always have a curb strap, which rests against your horse’s chin. Every time you pull back on the reins, the curb strap squeezes against this area. Adjust the chin strap so it works properly. You should be able to slip two fingers between the chin strap and your horse’s jaw line.

A bridle that fits well lets you communicate clearly with your horse.

Saddling up, Simplified

When you tack up your horse in western tack, be sure to find the right western saddle for him. A western saddle should sit atop a pad that’s clean and comfortable. Dirty pads may scratch against your horse’s coat, and a thin, worn pad can create painful pressure points along your horse’s spine. Most pads come with leather wear guards that protect the fabric from saddle rubs. Rectangular wear guards are on each side of the pad with a smaller one that lies across the withers. Lift the pad up ever so slightly above your horse’s withers, forming a little pocket. This helps prevent pressure on the withers.

When you set a western saddle on your horse’s back, do so gently. Don’t get in the habit of swinging the saddle up and plopping it down with a thud. That could spook your horse and also make his back sore.

Make Cinching a Cinch!

When you tack up your horse in western tack, be sure to have the correct cinch. Do you have the correct size? A cinch that is too long or too short can irritate your horse and cause your saddle to slip. Have a friend help measure your horse.

Set the saddle on your horse. Use a cloth measuring tape (the kind you use in sewing) and measure from one rigging ring to the other. These metal rings are where the cinch attaches on each side of the saddle. Since you’ll be passing the tape underneath your horse’s belly, move slowly and pat your horse so he isn’t scared. What did you measure? Subtract 16 inches and the result is the size of cinch you’ll need. If you’re in between whole numbers, round up.

Most cinches have buckles at each end. One end has a keeper or slot for the excess leather. Buckle that end onto the billet, which is the shorter leather strap on the saddle’s right side. It often looks like a heavy-duty belt.

A longer strap is fastened to the rigging on the opposite side of the western saddle—this is called the latigo. Like the billet, the latigo has holes punched into it. Feed the latigo through the cinch ring, and then back up and through the rigging ring, forming one or two complete loops from rigging ring to cinch buckle. When you reach a hole in the latigo that allows the cinch to fit snugly—but not tight—buckle it in place. Then feed the leftover end of the latigo through the slot in the jockey, which is the leather tab below the saddle horn.

Latigo Knot

Most cinches today are designed to buckle, but some camps and lesson barns have older saddles. These require a latigo knot:

• After making two loops from the cinch to the saddle, slide the end of the latigo through the left side of the rigging ring.
• Next, bring it across horizontally (toward your horse’s tail) and back through the right side of the rigging.
• Pull the end through the loop formed and snug it up. It should resemble a man’s necktie.
• To tighten, pull the loops out and up and take up the slack.

Check Twice

Always walk your horse for a moment or two before tightening the cinch any further. This gives your horse a chance to exhale and relax his back muscles, which lets the saddle to settle into its best, natural position behind your horse’s withers.

Before mounting, check your cinch and tighten the latigo a hole or two if necessary. The cinch must be snug enough to prevent your saddle from shifting when you step into the stirrup, yet it should never pinch your horse. You should be able to slip a finger between the edge of the cinch and your horse’s side.

Now that your western saddle is properly in place, it’s time to climb aboard. Enjoy your ride!

This article originally appeared in the January/February 2019 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Tack Up for Western Riding appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.