Get Started with Saddle Fit

There are a thousand things that affect saddle fit, but the team at Tacktical can help make it simpler.

The easiest way to fit your horse for a saddle at home without specialized tools is with a wire hanger. Bend the hanger in half and manipulate it until it will fit over your horse’s withers.

Start at your horse’s withers and set the bent hanger three to four inches back to find where saddle will rest. Spread the hanger apart until it sits evenly over his withers lip it down over your horse’s back leaving just a little bit of clearance, then put your finger where it first makes contact on both sides of the horse. Remove the hanger and measure the distance between those two points to determine the optimal bar size for your horse.

You can also measure your current saddle’s gullet to give insight on the ideal bar size you’re your horse. A standard gullet is measured from concho to concho on the inside of the saddle, so it can be a little tricky to measure accurately at home.

For more details on saddle fitting at home, check out this video with Fallon Taylor, pro barrel racer and founder of Tacktical.

Shimming a Saddle

The same measuring technique can help you figure out what size shim you need to use a saddle with bars that are too big for your horse. If you know your saddle has standard quarter horse bars, and your horse measures six inches from point of contact to point of contact, you will need an inch shim to achieve proper fit.

A simple saddle shim (or even a towel) can help you switch between horses without the need for a custom fitted saddle. Another option to consider is using a Tacktical Balanced Buildup Pad to help improve fit. This pad is ideal for those horses with narrow shoulders or a high, hard-to-fit wither. They work well under your favorite treeless saddle but can also fit under any western saddle.

These pads are designed to give your horse relief from the rigging placement and help a hard-to-fit horse get more comfort and balanced weight distribution.

Why Saddle Fit Matters

You might wonder if properly fitting your horse’s saddle is really that important. Consider it this way: when your horse runs freely in the pasture or roundpen, his shoulder muscles move back and forth with every stride. A poorly fitting saddle can restrict movement in that area, which can result in short, choppy strides or inconsistent movement.

If a saddle’s gullet is too big for your horse, the saddle will shift forward onto his shoulders, hindering movement. If the saddle rocks back, it can create pressure in the back on the lumbar.

That’s not even taking into consideration the pressure that may be on your horse’s back from the saddle’s rigging. Not all riggings are created equal. The Tacktical rigging distributes the pressure of the latigo and off billet evenly on both sides. Tacktical’s variety of skirt options, including the spin relief skirt, can also help your horse’s balance and overall performance.

Other signs of poor fit include dry spots when you remove a sweaty pad and depression of the wither muscles. Improper fit can be the cause of a horse’s inability to perform at his highest level.

The goal is for your saddle to sit evenly with zero play in the front or the back. This can help eliminate performance issues, from stride limitations to attitude issues caused by your horse feeling uncomfortable.

Shop Tacktical’s full line of stock saddles and check out Tacktical’s custom line.

The post Finding the Perfect Saddle Fit for Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A staple piece of tack for many West Coast western riders, romal reins can be a bit of a mystery if you learned how to ride in the eastern parts of the United States. While this rein started as a reined cow horse mainstay, its use has spread across the country, particularly in cattle classes, ranch classes, reining and trail.

Interested in trying this style of rein? American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) Professional Horseman Cathy Woosley Luse of Whitesboro, Texas, shares how to get started.

What are Romal Reins?

Unlike split reins, romal reins are on one hand a closed rein. But in contrast to roping reins, they also has a second half connected to the reins: the romal, which is a single length of rein with a popper, or “quirt,” on the end.

Some types of romal reins have buttons or “ferrules” along the length of the reins. Riders hold a romal rein much differently than either split or roping reins.

“They can be made out of braided rawhide, leather, or even braided kangaroo [leather], which has a great soft feel to it,” Woosley Luse says.

Where to Use

While you should always check the rule book for the class in which you’re competing, you can most likely use romal reins in just about any judged western class, including horsemanship, trail, western riding and ranch horse classes.

“They’re of West Coast origin, especially used on the ranch while working with cattle, where you don’t want to lose a rein,” Woosley Luse says. “They’re used most often in cow horse classes.”

Note: Romal reins are only used with shanked bits, not snaffle bits or bits with rings.

Why Use a Romal?

Woosley Luse loves recommending romal reins for novice riders because they’re a great way to learn how to keep your rein length even. They’re also good for a rider who wants to improve their use of neck reining. They help keep the horse upright and in the middle of the reins and can help a horse hold his head and neck correctly.

“Romal reins really make you use your legs, because it restricts how you can use the rein to ‘help’ your horse along,” Woosley Luse says. “You’ve got to resort to your other aids to communicate with your horse.”

Even if you never plan to show in romal reins, using them on your horse at home is a great test of the skills you and your horse possess.

“I like to introduce them and see if the horse is really trained through all areas of his body,” she adds. “You can see their progress with romal reins on.”

Myth-Busting

Some riders may think judges have a preference of one type rein or another, but Woosley Luse says this isn’t the case.

“The misconception is that classes are judged differently for a horse wearing romal reins, and I don’t think that’s true,” she says. “I think the judges are really looking at the performance—not the reins you’re using.”

How to Hold

You’ll hold both reins together with one hand below the connector to the romal. Place both reins together on your palm with the romal end coming out on top as you make a fist around the reins. “It’s kind of like holding an ice cream cone, and your fingers have to be closed,” says Woosley Luse.

Your free hand will hold the romal about 16 inches further down. Depending on your discipline, you’ll either hold that fist palm down on your thigh or hold it near your waist with your elbow close to your side.

“That 16 inches between your rein hand and your free hand creates a loop that falls a bit forward,” she explains.

There’s a couple of methods to adjust your reins for length. The easiest is to “pull slack” by opening the fist holding your reins and pulling the romal tail with your free hand until you reach the desired length. But this is not legal to do while moving in some classes, such as reining, so check the rule book carefully.

“But you can do it when your horse is sitting still in the center of the arena or demonstrating a hesitation,” Woosley Luse says.

If you need to adjust rein length while moving, you’ll “jump the rein” by opening your rein hand and quickly moving your hand down or up the reins, then closing your fist. Woosley Luse prefers pulling slack whenever possible.

Don’t touch the reins with the hand that is holding the romal tail. Keep your rein hand closed. Also make sure not to put a finger in between your reins when using romal reins in competition.

The correct way to use them is to move your rein hand from side to side, front to back, solely focused on neck rein guidance. This is where additional aids, such as your legs, can help guide your horse.

“You don’t use a direct rein with romal reins, so you’re really leaning on your neck rein cues,” she says. “It’s all about shoulder control.”

Special thanks to Addison Coutts for modeling these reins at Lybbert Performance Horses in Whitesboro, Texas.

The post Using Romal Reins to Improve Communication appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Matchy-matchy equestrian style is all about coordinating colors with your horse. Picture a dapple gray wearing a periwinkle saddle pad, fly bonnet and protective boots with his rider sporting a periwinkle shirt. That’s the matchy-matchy fashion trend.

Jessica Alvarado, creator of the Facebook group Matchy Matchy Equestrians USA, defines matchy-matchy as “the addicting obsession to dress your horse and/or yourself in matching attire.”

Why Matchy-Matchy Equestrian Style?

Part of the appeal of dressing matchy-matchy is that anyone can do it, regardless of discipline, body type or age.

“Price doesn’t matter either,” says Alvarado. “Matchy-matchy fits any color, shape, size, budget or skill set.”

Alvarado, a dressage rider from Washington, dove into matchy-matchy with a yearling named Moose.

“With my horse being as young as he was at the time, I didn’t have much to do with him other than basic groundwork, so I started to play dress up,” she says. “From there, my obsession—and my collections—grew.”

Alvarado formed her U.S.-based matchy-matchy group on Facebook in May of 2020 as a forum where people can buy and sell, ask questions or simply share pictures of themselves and their horses decked out in their color-coordinated best.

“At the time, there weren’t any groups dedicated to those who live only in the United States,” she explains. “This was a way to keep purchasing simple by not having to deal with currency conversion, overly delayed shipping times, and to promote smaller, local shops.”

Although the term “matchy-matchy” isn’t typically used in the western world, the concept is alive and well. Western lifestyle blogger and Horse Illustrated contributor Raquel Lynn of Los Angeles explains what motivates riders to coordinate with their horses.

“You work really hard taking care of your horse and you want them to look good,” she says. “Putting nice tack on a horse is a finishing touch.”

How to Get Started

For western riders, the sky’s the limit with matchy-matchy. “There are a ton of options in colors and print,” says Raquel. “For example, a barrel racer could put turquoise boots on their horse and have saddle pad wear-leathers in turquoise. More options are light oil tack, dark oil tack, or black tack, which is trending now.”

She cites cowhide print, serape and sunflowers as popular at the moment.

Some equestrian brands are known for creating sets that are perfect for matchy-matchy aficionados. These include matching saddle pads, fly bonnets and brushing boots or polos. Alvarado names a few of the major brands in the English realm as PS of Sweden, Equestrian Stockholm, Eskadron, and Equito. For western lovers, Raquel says Desert Rose Equine is known for coordinating stirrups, breast collars and headstalls, and Harris Leather and Silverworks have all the varying shades of tack.

Alvarado identifies the two biggest struggles of being matchy-matchy are limited supply and price gouging.

“With matchy-matchy becoming more popular, finding certain items can be difficult,” she says. “There are several sets that have been declared ‘unicorns,’ because they are very rare and hard to come by.”

For example, PS of Sweden is known to have two ‘unicorns’ with the highly sought-after colors Couture Red and Pacific Ocean.

“Usually if you are patient, in time you will find what you consider a unicorn,” says Alvarado. Like wine, certain saddle pad sets become more valuable with age, becoming collectors’ items due to the rarity. And that is where price gouging can occur.

Matchy-Matchy Fun for All

For most riders swept up in matchy-matchy, the quest to find tack and accessories in perfect hues and the ability to add a splash of color and designs to your equestrian pursuits are just plain fun.

“What drives me to be matchy-matchy is the happy feeling it gives me,” says Alvarado. “I love dressing my horse up to look his best, and he quite enjoys being told how handsome he is on a regular basis, too. The best part of having my matchy-matchy Facebook group has been creating a space for people to share what makes them happy. Times are hard for everyone right now. If sharing your photos or purchases makes you happy, by all means, share away.”

The post Matchy-Matchy Equestrian Style appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Riding your horse in a saddle that doesn’t fit you is at best uncomfortable and at worst dangerous for both you and your horse. While a properly fitted saddle for your horse is crucial, it’s also important to make sure that it fits you as well. AQHA Professional Horseman Allen Walton shares several checkpoints to make sure you’re sitting pretty in your well-fitting western saddle.

Why is Saddle Fit Important?

Walton says your saddle needs to fit you correctly so you can be balanced and ride with precision. A too-small saddle will hamper your movement.

“As you ride, you’re trying to move with your horse all the time,” Walton says. “It would be just like an adult sitting in a child’s chair.”

Conversely, Walton says a saddle that is too big will put your feet too far in front of you, causing you to be off balance.

Finding Your Fit

Lots of factors play into a saddle fitting you correctly: your height, length of leg, torso and weight. The type of saddle and events in which you participate are also factors. Walton uses roping saddles as an example.

“Ropers nowadays typically ride in saddles that are very short-seated so they can get their feet behind them to stand up when they leave the box,” says Walton. “But when it comes to riding for a few hours at a time or doing different events, a saddle with a seat that’s too short is terribly uncomfortable. And when it’s uncomfortable for the rider, and the rider’s not in position, it’s uncomfortable for the horse.”

If you want to do more than one event, generally you’ll want to ride in a medium-fitting saddle, which Walton says is most often a 15-inch or 16-inch seat, unless you’re doing an event like cutting, where you’ll need a longer seat.

“If your seat is too short, it’s going to be uncomfortable because your legs are going to be too far back, pressing into the swells of the saddle,” Walton says. “And if the seat is too long, you’ll be in a stretched-out position, with your feet out in front of you, and you’ll be sitting too far back on your seat bones.”

The shape of the seat also depends on your sport. Riders doing cutting look for a flat seat, which leaves room for movement without hampering the horse as he makes quick turns. Reining or western pleasure riders prefer a saddle with a rise in the front of the seat.

Getting the Right Stirrup Length

Your stirrup length should be adjustable so the fenders won’t place your feet too far forward or back. Lengthwise, your goal should be alignment, no matter what event you’re pursuing.

“You want a line from your shoulder through your hips to your heels, in most cases,” Walton says. “If your stirrups are too long, your center of gravity—your base and your support—will be off, because you can tip forward and backward more easily than if your stirrups were a little shorter.”

If your stirrups are too short, they can inhibit leg movement and your cues. You’ll also find yourself off balance, and your legs will be cramped.

When your foot is in the stirrup, Walton says your ankle and knee shouldn’t feel cramped if you’re accustomed to riding regularly.

Saddle fit, saddles and people have many variations. But the ultimate goal for saddle fit for you, as the rider, is balance. The saddle should allow you to ride the horse, not just the saddle.

Meet the Expert Allen Walton is an American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) Professional Horseman located in Bluff Dale, Texas, with his wife, Bobbie, who is the director of the Tarleton State University Equine Center. Well-versed in many events, Walton trains and rides in cutting, reining, reined cow horse, roping, and ranch and stock horse classes. He’s competed at events such as the National Cutting Horse Association Futurity, the AQHA World Championship Show, the National Reined Cow Horse Association’s (NRCHA) World’s Greatest Horseman competition and Senior Steer Roping Finals. Walton holds judges’ cards for AQHA, the NRCHA and the American Paint Horse Association. He has judged the AQHA World Championship Show several times, as well as the AQHA Versatility Ranch Horse World Show, the Stock Horse of Texas Championships and the American Stock Horse Association National Championship.

This article on western saddle fit appeared in the March 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Get the Right Western Saddle Fit appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Split Reins

What they are: Although typically made from two strips of leather, split reins can also be made of braided cotton rope. Widths vary. Metcalf prefers a width of 3/4-inch for most riding and 5/8-inch with a snaffle bit.

Used for: The current trend sees split reins used in most western events, particularly western pleasure, horsemanship, reining and cutting.

Pros: Split reins allow you to make tiny adjustments to one rein or the other, direct your horse with one rein, apply a neck rein and/or a number of other cues using one or both hands with the option to hold the reins in several different positions. This is the most versatile type of reins.

Cons: Adjusting your rein length in one hand can be more challenging than other types of reins. It’s also easy to drop one while riding, which is a safety hazard. And Metcalf says sometimes riders sneak extra cues in that can hamper good training in the long run.

“You need to be aware of your rein length, and practice so you’re using them correctly,” she says.

Selection tip: Look for good-quality leather, a substantial thickness and no stretch. Make sure the attachments to the bit are in good working order. Metcalf avoids snaps or Chicago screws in favor of leather ties for safety.

“I always check the leather every time I use a pair of reins,” she says. “I’ve had snaps come open or screws come unscrewed, and leather can wear out. I replace those leathers if there’s any sign of wear.”

Romal Reins

What they are: Derived from the traditional Spanish vaquero methods, romal reins are comprised of two parts: the reins and the romal, which is one piece connected to the reins. The romal usually has a strip of leather on the end, called a popper. Today they’re usually made out of rawhide.

Used for: Particularly on the West Coast, many bridled reined cow horses (versus one in a hackamore) are ridden in competition using a romal. Some riders use a romal in trail and other all-around events, but the romal is useful for a variety of disciplines. Metcalf says they’re also helpful for training a horse.

“When I start putting my 3-year-old horses in the bridle, I’ll ride them in split reins,” she says. “But when I go to one hand, 98 percent of the time within a few weeks I’m using romal reins to polish up the steering.”

Pros: You’ll hold the reins in one hand and the tail in the other. When held correctly, it’s easier to keep your reins even and at the correct length versus split reins. They are helpful for keeping your horse upright and between your reins. Romal reins are also a great way to find out how trained your horse is to rein cues, says Metcalf.

“You can’t slip a finger or hand in the reins to steer with romal reins like you can with split reins,” she says.

Cons: Holding and using a romal incorrectly can get points deducted from your score in the show pen. Check your association’s rule book for specifics. They’re not to be used with a bit without a shank, like an O-ring snaffle.

Selection tip: Metcalf says a good rawhide set of romal reins is not cheap. Inexpensive reins may wear out quickly. Look for quality materials and workmanship.

Roping Reins

What they are: Roping reins are attached to the bit in a loop around the horse’s neck and are made from a single length of leather, braided nylon or cotton. There is usually a snap on one end.

Used for: These western reins are used for roping and speed events, such as barrel racing.

Pros: Metcalf says roping reins are easy to manage for a beginner or a rider using one hand-like a roper-or if the rider needs to grab the saddle horn with the other hand.

Cons: If your reins are too short, you’ll be limited on the maneuvers you can ask of your horse. They are considered illegal equipment in some classes, like western pleasure, so check your association rule book before using them.

Selection tip: Make sure that your reins are the right length for you, the snaps are in good working order and the rein material is good quality.

Mecate Reins

What they are: Mecate reins are typically used with a bosal, also known as a hackamore. Made of horse mane or tail hair, mohair, or nylon in several thickness options, mecate reins include one length of rope attached to the bosal to make a loop around the horse’s neck, with the remainder used as a lead rope that is tied around the saddle horn. The bosal and mecate are another derivative of Spanish vaquero training.

Used for: Horses are usually outfitted with a bosal and mecate during the early days of training; they can be shown in this tack as long as they’re under the designated age limit. Check your rule book for specifics. They’re suitable for most events except horsemanship and speed events. You’ll usually ride with a rein in each hand.

Pros: Metcalf says that a bosal can be a helpful tool in the course of training a horse, and the mecate reins are designed to facilitate that training. They can deliver subtle cues thanks to the rough texture and weight of the rein.

Cons: If your horse doesn’t know how to work in a bosal, or you’re inexperienced with this piece of equipment, you may not be able to properly cue and control your horse.

Selection tip: Metcalf prefers mane hair instead of tail hair, which tends to be too stiff, or mohair, which tends to be too smooth. She recommends looking for a quality bosal and mecate set over one that is inexpensive.

“Mane hair won’t tear your hands up,” Metcalf says. “I feel like my horses respect a mane hair hackamore rein more than mohair.”

This article on western reins originally appeared in the January 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Take the Reins: The Ins and Outs of 4 Common Types of Western Reins appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

• You can ride western in a snaffle or curb bit, depending on what your horse goes best in.
• Your saddle should fit your horse comfortably, not rubbing on his withers.
• Western saddles typically have a simple cinch, but some require a latigo knot.

Are you new to western riding? If so, you’re in luck! Here’s a quick overview of how to tack up, western style.

Western Bridle Basics

When you tack up your horse in western tack, be sure to find a right bridle for him. Western headstalls come in two basic styles. One has a browband, much like an English headstall. The other style, called a “split ear,” lacks a browband. This type only goes around one ear. For general purposes, you can choose whichever style you prefer to use.

There’s a wide variety of western bits available, from simple snaffles to curb bits with shanks. Be sure to use the type of bit that works best for your horse.

Snaffle bits are ideal for green horses and those guided by direct rein aids, like an English horse. A snaffle must fit correctly. There should be a slight smile (not a fold or wrinkle) at each corner of his mouth.

Curb bits, which include a shank, should only be used on horses that already know how to neck rein. They sit lower in the mouth than a snaffle, creating only a gentle lift at the corners of the mouth. Curb bits always have a curb strap, which rests against your horse’s chin. Every time you pull back on the reins, the curb strap squeezes against this area. Adjust the chin strap so it works properly. You should be able to slip two fingers between the chin strap and your horse’s jaw line.

A bridle that fits well lets you communicate clearly with your horse.

Saddling up, Simplified

When you tack up your horse in western tack, be sure to find the right western saddle for him. A western saddle should sit atop a pad that’s clean and comfortable. Dirty pads may scratch against your horse’s coat, and a thin, worn pad can create painful pressure points along your horse’s spine. Most pads come with leather wear guards that protect the fabric from saddle rubs. Rectangular wear guards are on each side of the pad with a smaller one that lies across the withers. Lift the pad up ever so slightly above your horse’s withers, forming a little pocket. This helps prevent pressure on the withers.

When you set a western saddle on your horse’s back, do so gently. Don’t get in the habit of swinging the saddle up and plopping it down with a thud. That could spook your horse and also make his back sore.

Make Cinching a Cinch!

When you tack up your horse in western tack, be sure to have the correct cinch. Do you have the correct size? A cinch that is too long or too short can irritate your horse and cause your saddle to slip. Have a friend help measure your horse.

Set the saddle on your horse. Use a cloth measuring tape (the kind you use in sewing) and measure from one rigging ring to the other. These metal rings are where the cinch attaches on each side of the saddle. Since you’ll be passing the tape underneath your horse’s belly, move slowly and pat your horse so he isn’t scared. What did you measure? Subtract 16 inches and the result is the size of cinch you’ll need. If you’re in between whole numbers, round up.

Most cinches have buckles at each end. One end has a keeper or slot for the excess leather. Buckle that end onto the billet, which is the shorter leather strap on the saddle’s right side. It often looks like a heavy-duty belt.

A longer strap is fastened to the rigging on the opposite side of the western saddle—this is called the latigo. Like the billet, the latigo has holes punched into it. Feed the latigo through the cinch ring, and then back up and through the rigging ring, forming one or two complete loops from rigging ring to cinch buckle. When you reach a hole in the latigo that allows the cinch to fit snugly—but not tight—buckle it in place. Then feed the leftover end of the latigo through the slot in the jockey, which is the leather tab below the saddle horn.

Latigo Knot

Most cinches today are designed to buckle, but some camps and lesson barns have older saddles. These require a latigo knot:

• After making two loops from the cinch to the saddle, slide the end of the latigo through the left side of the rigging ring.
• Next, bring it across horizontally (toward your horse’s tail) and back through the right side of the rigging.
• Pull the end through the loop formed and snug it up. It should resemble a man’s necktie.
• To tighten, pull the loops out and up and take up the slack.

Check Twice

Always walk your horse for a moment or two before tightening the cinch any further. This gives your horse a chance to exhale and relax his back muscles, which lets the saddle to settle into its best, natural position behind your horse’s withers.

Before mounting, check your cinch and tighten the latigo a hole or two if necessary. The cinch must be snug enough to prevent your saddle from shifting when you step into the stirrup, yet it should never pinch your horse. You should be able to slip a finger between the edge of the cinch and your horse’s side.

Now that your western saddle is properly in place, it’s time to climb aboard. Enjoy your ride!

This article originally appeared in the January/February 2019 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Tack Up for Western Riding appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.