Working a gate from horseback is a necessary skill when riding on the ranch. When competing in ranch riding classes, the obstacle can be part of the competition or the entrance to the competition grounds. You’ll need to know the process so that your horse has the skills necessary to open and close a panel gate.

Here, trainer Cody Crow helps you learn how to approach the gate opening correctly and to ride through smoothly and safely. You’ll learn what to do, whether you just want to get to trails on the other side, or score well in ranch riding competitions.

“There are no rope gate openings in ranch riding competitions now,” says Crow. “Instead, riders need to be ready to show that they can open and close a gate without leaning and while showing you have control of your horse to put him exactly where he needs to be at every part of the process.”

Ranch riding patterns will dictate if you are to open a gate with your right or left hand and if you are to push or pull. In some advanced patterns, you may even be asked to back through a gate. Read on to find out how to open a gate by pushing it away from you.

Ranch Riding Skills Needed Before Maneuvering a Gate

Before attempting to open a gate from the saddle, make sure that your horse can independently move his forehand and hindquarters. To work a gate, your horse needs to be able to move his shoulders and hips on command; he should be able to sidepass in each direction. While the sidepass isn’t always a move needed for gate opening, it’s good to know that you can move your horse into position as needed.

Warm up your horse as usual, then practice moving his shoulders by applying leg pressure in front of the cinch. Move his hindquarters by applying leg pressure slightly behind the cinch.

For each move, choose a direction to go, block forward motion with your reins, relax your leg and “open the door” to the direction you want to go while your opposite leg applies pressure.

To sidepass, you’ll block your horse’s forward motion with the reins, pick up and to the side, and apply leg pressure at the cinch line.

“Sometimes you’ll sidepass if you need to cover a mistake or move into position,” says Crow. “And depending on the gate, you may have to push it away from you and sidepass your horse a little bit. There’s always some lateral movement when opening a gate, and you’re not going to be penalized for sidepassing when needed.”

Crow says it’s important to know where the gate is placed in the ranch riding arena. He says you don’t want to sidepass to get to the gate if you could have easily ridden forward into alignment with the gate opening.

Approach and Through

When you’re ready to open the gate, ride up next to the gate opening so that the hand you’ll open the gate with is aligned with the gate’s handle.

“You may have to trot up and stop in position to show that you have control of your horse,” says Crow. “Stop so that you can reach the handle of the gate without having to lean way over or back. Your horse should be parallel to the gate. Place your reins in the hand that won’t open the gate. I put the tail of the romel reins in the same hand as the reins so it’s clean and tidy when you’re working an obstacle.”

Crow says to place your hand on the gate handle to open it. Then, back up slightly to make sure that the horse’s head will clear the gate opening. Make sure to keep your hand on the gate as you back and ride through.

“I want the horse to back straight, then as I push the gate open, I want him to bring his forehand through and then bring his hindquarters around the gate,” says Crow. “To close, I’m going to sidepass perfectly straight as I shut the gate. Then I want to see that my horse’s shoulders are just in front of the latch, lining my hand up to latch the gate easily.”

Slow Practice

When practicing at home before a competition, Crow says that he slows the process down and doesn’t open the gate quickly.

“I do it step by step, and I wait between every step to make sure that the horse is patient,” says Crow. “When a horse understands how to work a gate, he often starts anticipating and rushing through. I want to keep it all slow and have the horse work off my cues. I will ride up to the gate and stand still for 10 seconds before I reach for the handle. Then, I’ll wait 10 to 20 seconds in between each of the next steps.”

Crow says he waits even longer between steps if he’s working with a young horse.

“I make them pause and wait for me, especially with a younger horse,” he says. “Wait a little longer with a horse who has learned to rush, too.”

If a horse gets anxious at the gate opening and prances or jigs, Crow recommends backing the horse (gently) in a big circle and returning to the gate-opening spot.

“I will back him right up to the point where I wanted him to stand still, then give him the option to stand patiently or back a circle again,” he says. “This isn’t a punishment but provides the horse a choice of working harder or standing still comfortably. It doesn’t take very many circles before the horse chooses to just stand at the gate and be patient.”

Safety First

When you’re just starting to open and close gates with your horse, opt to push the gate open as Crow described.

“The ranch riding pattern may dictate how you have to work in a show, but it’s generally safer to push a gate than to pull one to you. When you pull a gate, then you’re having to go through it, and you run the risk of not having the gate open far enough and catching tack on the latch.”

As you start to practice, ride through gates designed with easy-to-use handles. In a competitive setting, you may have to reach down or use whatever handle is available.

If you are building your confidence or your horse is just learning, make sure that the handle is at your arm’s height, and you don’t have to practice too many new skills at once.

“I have seen shows where the gate has a traditional chain to reach for that is low,” says Crow. “It’s important that your horse feels comfortable with you reaching over and shifting your weight before you try to reach at a gate. Make sure your horse is used to the feel out in the open. When you do reach down, make sure to keep your weight as even as possible in your stirrups to keep your saddle from shifting and to keep your horse from moving away. I like to keep my leg off my horse as I lean so he doesn’t mistake my reaching for a cue.”

This article about maneuvering gates for ranch riding appeared in the August 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Ranch Riding: Gates appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Don’t Force the Issue

“Most horses don’t like ditches because they have a hard time with depth perception,” says Crow. “Horses should have a lot of self-preservation, so if they have a choice, they’ll go around something that looks unfamiliar or unsafe. For showing, you must cross at a certain place. You have to develop the horse’s confidence and show him you’re not going to put him in a bad spot or ask him to do something that’s unsafe.”

Crow says he often sees riders force their horses to keep facing the ditch when the horses are showing fear.

“What I won’t do is force the issue,” he says. “That’s the biggest mistake that people make. Riders will go to their leg and create a lot of pressure. The ditch itself creates anxiety and pressure for the horse, so adding pressure doesn’t make sense. That’s just creating a fight with your horse. You may get him over, but you didn’t build confidence or create a better experience for the next time you need to ride across [a ditch].”

Create Options

If you aren’t sure whether your horse will cross a ditch, find out his current comfort level. As you ride straight toward the ditch, look ahead and ride ahead, expecting your horse to move forward.

When you’re close to the ditch, allow your horse to lower his head to investigate. He needs to plan out how to move. You don’t want him to walk blindly into a dangerously deep ditch. He should pick his path.

If your horse doesn’t want to cross a ditch, give him options about where to be and how hard he must work. You’ll make being close to the ditch easy. If your horse moves away from the crossing, he’ll need to go to work.

“Horses respond really well to options,” Crow says. “I’ll immediately cue my horse to work—trotting circles left and right at a fast pace. Then I’ll walk up to the ditch again and give him the opportunity to cross. If it looks like he’s interested and investigating, then I sit softly and let him think about crossing the ditch.”

If Crow feels his horse balk and want to turn away from the crossing, it’s time to go back to work.

“I go back to work, trotting or loping, depending on what the footing and grounds are like near the ditch,” he says. “For some horses, this is a quick fix. For others, this takes a long time. If a horse isn’t showing lots of fear and only mildly balks, I’ll work him for 20 to 30 seconds, then try again. If a horse has a more severe reaction to the ditch, I might work him for two to three minutes before trying again. I need to create enough work that the horse would rather choose the easier option, which is just going over the ditch. The amount of work depends on the horse and his amount of resistance.”

Moving forward in a fast-paced trot keeps the horse thinking about moving forward over the ditch.

“I’m not really a big fan of trying to back a horse in a bunch of circles when he’s already got something that he’s worried about,” says Crow. “I think that could make one try to rear up. I try to fix this with forward motion. I’ll trot the figure-8s tightly and keep his feet moving forward and freely. That’s what we want—for the horse to go forward over the ditch.”

Here, Crow demonstrates riding over the ditch between his barn and hay field. The horse he rode, Mister Fahrenheit (aka “Radar”), wasn’t sure about the 3-foot water ditch crossing, and at first balked and backed away.

After working for only five minutes of trotting circles away from the ditch and resting at the crossing, Radar was ready to cross. His first attempt resulted in an eventing-worthy jump.

Be Prepared to Jump

Crow warns that horses who are fearful of the ditch may jump—or over-jump—on their first crossings. Be prepared to stay with the motion and land softly on the opposite side.

“If a horse has had some anxiety about the ditch, when he finally decides to get across it, he’s going to jump,” Crow says. “I’m OK with that. I just want to be prepared.”

How do you prepare for a ditch jump while riding in a western saddle?

“I’ll make sure that when I’m getting ready to cross the ditch, I’m not looking down,” Crow says. “I want to have my eyes up, looking forward. I make sure that I have a hold of the horn, and I’ll lean slightly forward. I’ll make sure to give my horse enough rein so I don’t hit him in the face when he lands on the other side. You don’t want to punish the horse for finally getting across.”

Crow says that if he feels a horse taking off toward the ditch, he’ll slow the speed by pulling back on one rein before the horse crosses.

“I don’t want my horse to be ‘sucked back’ on his hocks and ready to leap,” he says. “Instead, I’ll use my reins to disengage the hind end so that he steps more than leaps.”

Keep in mind, jumping is an honest reaction for a horse.

“If the horse can’t tell how deep the ditch is, I want him to give a little hop,” Crow says. “I would much rather ride a horse that’s going to hop over a hole. That’s much safer than riding a horse that blindly steps into something where he can’t see the bottom. This is very different than if you have a graded path down to a water crossing. I don’t want a jump then. But if there’s a hole in the ground, I’m OK with the jump.”

Praise and Rest

Once Radar jumped across the ditch, Crow rewarded him with a walk on a loose rein. The pair moved up and down the ditch without turning to face it right away. After a few minutes of rest, Crow asked the horse to cross the ditch again. This time, he didn’t need as much encouragement.

Crow says forward motion is what ranch-riding judges want to see. At the highest levels of versatility ranch horse competition, the events are held outside in natural ranch settings. The judges want to see that your horse can go over and get to the obstacles and anywhere you need to work.

While the ditch may not officially be an obstacle, you may have to cross over one to get to your course. Judges want to see that your horse trusts your guidance and will move willingly wherever you point him.

This article about how to teach your horse to cross a ditch appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Whether you’re new to cattle work or want to improve your cattle-driving skills, you’ll need to learn how to influence a cow’s movements. How you and your horse approach, track, and drive a cow influences where it will go next. To master driving and turning a cow in the arena, you must know where to position your horse.

“The best way to control a cow is to be closer to the cow,” says trainer Cody Crow. “A lot of people feel it’s safer away from the cow, but if you’re too far away, the cow can move where it wants to go. Make sure to step up and influence where you want the cow to go.”

Here, Crow helps you position your horse so you can drive a cow forward and then change the cow’s direction. He’ll teach you how to visualize where to be.

He also shares his teaching strategy: to take turns acting out the part of cow and rider with another riding friend. Whether you don’t have cattle to practice with or if you just want to boost your confidence, riding and “moving” another horse and rider can help you understand where to be when you’re working cattle.

The Pressure Points in Cattle Work

When he first teaches students to drive and turn cattle, Crow says he has riders follow a cow and learn where to be to get the forward drive. Working in his large arena, riders first follow and track the cow, then learn to drive it forward.

Driving: “If your goal is to drive the cow forward, you want the horse’s shoulder putting pressure on the cow’s hip—between the outside of the hip and the cow’s tailhead,” says Crow.

Only after riders feel comfortable following and pushing a cow forward will he teach them to move up and turn the cow.

Turns: “If I’m going to make the cow turn, I want my horse’s shoulder even with the cow’s eyeball,” says Crow. “You’ll need to change your pace and move faster than the cow to get in position. You’re not merely pushing but moving forward to change the direction. Whether you’re circling the horse or turning, this is the position to keep the cow turning away from you.”

Once you learn where to position your horse, you’ll need to practice so you know which position to be in at the right time.

“Sometimes you’ll have a cow that wants to move off of the fence,” says Crow. “You may have to move quickly between drive and turn, then get back to the drive spot to keep the cow moving. If you linger at the eye during your turn, the cow may stop when you don’t want it to. Make sure to return to the drive line—focusing on the cow’s tailhead.”

Find a Practice Buddy

Most riders don’t have consistent access to cattle, but you can still practice your position when you ride with another horse and rider.

“It’s important for you to see where the cow’s escape routes are and how the horse’s position influences that,” says Crow. “When you’re just riding around a cow, I don’t think most riders are trying to see the cow’s perspective. Where does the cow see the open door? Learning the cow’s perspective can help you know where to be.”

Whether you’re new to cattle work or just want to practice cow work without cattle present, riding with another horse and rider can help you learn while removing some of the fear and speed. Ask a friend to ride with you and take turns being the rider and the cow. Make sure to ride horses that get along well and keep a safe distance as you practice.

Make sure to communicate. Since you’re riding with a friend, talk through your moves and share what you notice. Tell your friend where you’re going and when you’re moving in position to turn. Ask each other what you notice and where you felt you had to move or turn.

Crow suggests starting by driving your friend—who’s acting as the cow—forward along a fence line. To get in the best position, stay slightly behind the other horse, looking at his tail. That’s the point to watch as you push that horse’s hip and drive your friend forward.

Next, make your friend—the cow—turn. You’ll move from the drive position and instead focus to the cow’s eyeball. Move ahead so that your horse’s shoulder is even with the other horse’s eye. You’ll need to speed up your horse to move into position. When you move your position and focus, you’ll influence your friend to turn.

When you move your horse’s shoulder to ride parallel to the other horse’s eye, she’ll feel a shift in pressure and that the forward movement is blocked. There’s nowhere to go but to turn away from the pressure at the eye.

You can practice this drive-then-turn pressure change as you ride down your arena’s long side. This is a great way to practice going down the long side without the fear of too much speed. You’ll drive the “cow” down the fence, then turn when you’re ready.

Use caution and communicate as you ride with your friend. While moving in a trot or lope, you can learn what position to move into without fearing that the cow will move into you.

Cattle Work in Real Time

With lots of practice, you’ll learn how to read and influence cattle because of your positioning. It will feel natural and you won’t have to think so much.

“Now it’s muscle memory for me,” says Crow. “I grew up on a cattle ranch, and I had the opportunity to read cattle and learn how to influence their behavior by my positioning. The more you practice, the more it becomes second nature. You can just get to the spot where you want to be instead of having to stop and process, ‘Where should I be and where do I need to be?’ By the time you process all of that, the moment is lost, and the cow has just dragged you down the arena.”

When you’re confident knowing how to move the cow forward and how to make a turn, you have the basics down. Then there are always tweaks to help you move your horse through the turn and polish your moves. But you’ll need these fundamental driving and turning skills to get started.

Special thanks to Payton Porterfield and her horse, Steps of Perfection (bay), for helping demonstrate these exercises.

Read More: Introducing Your Horses to Cattle

This article about cattle work appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Cattle Work 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here, trainer Cody Crow helps you understand how horses learn that they can break gait if they choose—and why riders fall into the trap of constant pedaling. He’ll help you teach your horse to lope and keep loping until another cue is given. He also provides tips to help you sit back and drive your horse into the lope.

No Nagging

“If you constantly nag a child about cleaning their room but there’s no follow-through or consequence, they’ll soon learn they don’t have to clean their room,” says Crow. “It’s the same way for the horse. If you kiss to the horse and he doesn’t step into and stay in the lope, there must be a follow-through. If there isn’t a follow-through, you’re effectively training your horse to ignore you. He’ll take you up on the chance to ignore you if allowed. The horse may break down into the trot or just get hollow. Most horses will only work as hard as you ask them to. Make sure you’re following up.”

In the show pen, the judge wants to see a horse that is willingly guided. The horse should step into a transition with fluidity and a willing demeanor. Crow says that your horse’s willingness to lope freely will affect your performance scores for several transitions and maneuvers.

“If you see a rider who’s having to beg the horse to go forward, it’s not a very pretty picture,” Crow says. “Maybe a judge won’t minus all of the maneuvers, but he certainly isn’t going to plus the maneuvers. If a rider is having a discussion with the horse about just staying in the lope, there’s no chance she could have shown an extended lope. Then she won’t be able to show a transition to a collected lope. Also, if you’re begging your horse to stay in the lope, he can’t have the balance to show a good transition from the lope to the trot.”

Making the Change

“Horses that need to be pedaled all the time may never have been taught to move forward freely,” says Crow. “Horses can get dull and lazy when the rider allows that behavior. If a rider is timid or isn’t clear with the horse, it’s easy for him to just stop.”

Crow says he helps horses break the pedaling cycle by showing them that they can move out freely. He’ll ask the horse to lope and boost the speed to show the horse he can move out and will be expected to move at the speed requested.

First, Crow teaches the horse that there will be an audible cue before any follow through or consequence. He makes a kissing sound to ask for the lope, then uses his leg pressure to reinforce the sound. Once he’s loping, he kisses again to ask for more speed.

“The sound will be followed by my leg cues—with a little more outside leg cue to keep the horse moving forward,” he says. “When the horse learns a verbal cue before the leg cue, he learns that he needs to move on. The verbal cue was the ask, and the leg cue was the tell. If the horse still doesn’t respond, I’ll bump with my leg, but I won’t continue to bump. If I were to constantly bump, I’d desensitize the horse to my leg.”

If a horse has been ridden with constant leg cues, Crow suggests the rider carry a short crop.

“I teach riders to use a verbal cue first, then their legs, then a tap on the hindquarters (at the hip) will be a new cue that the horse isn’t desensitized to,” says Crow. “We aren’t talking about hitting the horse hard at all, just providing a new feeling and something the horse isn’t desensitized to. Usually it only takes one or two taps for the horse to understand that he should move off of the kiss sound and not wait for other aids.”

Loping Position

If you have to canter, push, canter, push on a horse to prevent him from breaking gait, you may have developed a habit you’ll need to break.

Crow says to make sure you’re sitting on your hips and using your legs. If you’ve become accustomed to begging the horse to go, you may have learned to lean forward to encourage him. This position actually moves your legs away from the horse. You don’t have the ability to use your leg aids as well as if you can sit back, drive and push the horse forward from your seat. Think of driving instead of leaning forward and taking the horse with you.

Riding a different horse can help you feel what you were doing and allow you to sit up and change your posture.

“Sometimes it’s helpful to get on a horse that will keep the lope so you can feel what it’s like to just ride,” advises Crow. “Many times, riders who have learned to bump every stride will lean forward so their legs aren’t in the place to drive. It’s important to learn to sit back and allow your legs to open and drive the horse with a long, relaxed leg.”

This article about breaking gait at the lope appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Here to help tamp down your horse’s jig, American Paint Horse Association and American Quarter Horse Association Professional Sandy Jirkovsky shares her advice.

Why Does My Horse Get Antsy?

There are several reasons why horses don’t settle while working a pattern and get antsy, and some of them are rider-related.

Rider tension: “If a horse can feel a fly on their skin, they can feel you tensing up,” says Jirkovsky. “Whether you tense up through your seat, through your legs, or even in your mind, they feel that, and the first thing they go back to is their natural instinct of flight because they feel apprehension on their back.”

Over-practicing: Repetition is helpful for riders wanting to learn their pattern, but it’s not so good for a broke horse, says Jirkovsky. Completing entire patterns during practice can backfire when you go show.

“The horse learns the pattern faster than you do, and he’s going to anticipate,” she says.

Too fresh: Just like children in school, a horse with too much energy is not going to be able to focus on what you’re asking of him, according to Jirkovsky.

How to Handle It

Get mentally prepared: Jirkovsky suggests checking your mind and body for any tension.

“Make sure that you’re relaxed, taking deep breaths, thinking about what you’re going to do, and not transferring negative energy over to your horse,” she says.

Consider working with a friend or a trainer or having someone videotape your performance to see if you’re tensing up while riding, Jirkovsky advises.

Practice pieces: Choose maneuvers or portions of your pattern to practice. To learn your pattern as a whole, Jirkovsky suggests walking it on foot or even using another horse.

“We’ll practice maneuvers in a different order and make sure we have them all down,” she says.

School a Class Correctly

Jirkovsky says you can’t ride every class like you want to win first place. Working on sticky spots with your horse, even at the expense of a placing due to using two hands or breaking pattern, can make way for more successful performances in the future if you do it right.

“Sometimes you have to go to a smaller or open show to school and correct those issues, so that when you go to a show that counts, they’ve been fixed,” she says. “You’ll see many of the top trainers school through their patterns at a show, not being rough, but just keeping the horse focused on them.”

Avoid scaring your horse while schooling, Jirkovsky stresses.

“There’s two types of schooling,” she says. “There is good schooling, which is educational for the horse, and there is schooling to punish the horse. All that does is build apprehension for the next time he goes into the pen. Your schooling has to be proper and patient refocusing and redirecting, otherwise you’re just going to add to your problem.”

Don’t punish: Even if your horse acts up on the pattern, don’t discipline him—instead, recapture his focus.

“The worst thing you can do is punish your horse when he gets upset,” Jirkovsky says. “You just have to redirect his attention.”

Prevention Anticipation in Pattern Classes

Take a walk: Many riders skip walking in favor of other gaits and maneuvers. But Jirkovsky says the slowest gait is key to encouraging a calm and focused performance.

“Walking is a great patience builder, and seems to be a lost art,” she says.

Take some time to warm up, asking your horse to softly bend, flex and respond to your cues before moving on to pattern work.

Cross-train: Working your horse in other disciplines can help his mindset toward your chosen class, Jirkovsky says.

“Take a horse that you always do reining on and go do ranch riding with him,” she says. “Take your horsemanship horse into a trail course and let him refocus a bit on the poles. Adding different classes instead of just that same class where he tends to get upset can help.”

Make the cone a happy place: Jirkovsky leaves cones out in the arena at home and does pattern maneuvers away from the cones, leaving the marker as a resting spot.

“After working our horses around the arena, if we’re going to stand and talk for a while, we’ll do it at the cone,” she says. “The horses really anticipate, and once they see a cone, they think they’re going to have to do something. But we make the cone their resting place.”

For a showmanship horse, Jirkovsky will leave a bucket of grain at each cone, which encourages the horse to have his ears forward, looking forward to being at the cone.

Start with focus: Before you start your pattern, cue your horse with your legs to encourage him to take a breath and focus. This is a move you teach your horse at home after working hard, so do the same thing when you’re about to compete to remind him.

“I’ll roll my legs on the horse’s sides as support, and he’ll lower his head and take a breath,” Jirkovsky says. “At home, I’ll reward him and rub his neck and let him relax as a reward.”

This article about how to avoid an antsy horse and anticipation in a pattern class appeared in the January/February 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Antsy Horse? Here’s How to Avoid Anticipation in Pattern Classes appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here, trainer Aaron Ralston demonstrates how the western stop is differs with and without cattle present. Ralston says the same horse can stop well in a reining class and learn how to stop a cow.

“The best cow horse must be as broke as the best reining horse and as connected to a cow as the best cutting horse,” he says. “Then responsibility falls to the rider. If you use your reins and leg, it must be in time with the objective of the cow.”

The horse must be tuned into the rider for the reining stop cue and tuned into the cow for great cow horse stops.

“For the reining stop, you need to have a great stop, then change directions,” he says. “When you’re working cows, the cattle shift right and left, and you’re always reacting.”

Stopping Time

No matter what type of class you’re preparing for, Ralston recommends keeping your cues consistent. When you visualize how to move your hands to rein for the stops, keep in mind the clock image from part 1 of this series.

With the clock face over your horse’s body—and 12 o’clock at his ears—you’ll move your hands toward 6 o’clock to cue for a stop. You’ll then return your hand to the middle of the clock to allow your horse to move his neck freely without a tight rein.

The Reining Stop

For the perfect reining stop, the horse’s back should hunch into the stop while his hind hooves reach toward the front hooves. The horse’s front legs should move freely as the horse skates into the stop.

The horse’s neck naturally telescopes out and down to counterbalance his weight going down in the back. There will be a nice arc from the nose to the hind end. Ralston warns that you don’t want a lot of rein or bit contact—little to none.

To put this scene into action, Ralston says he approaches the stop with gradually building speed. As the horse runs down to the stop, his body position naturally changes, and his shoulders move back with the motion.

When you’re ready to stop, make sure not to force your shoulders back. Instead, the way the horse moves should send your shoulders back—just like a jet taking off propels passengers back into their seats. This relaxed, natural back position means that the horse is moving his shoulders freely without weight tipping forward onto his front legs.

When it’s time to ask for the stop, say “whoa,” press the balls of your feet into your stirrups, drive your heels, then lift your hand for light contact. As you sit the stop, point your belt buckle to the sky and keep your chin up.

The reining stop was developed for the arena-performance class. Reining crowds cheer the loudest when horses glide over a long distance. This stop isn’t used to work on the ranch. However, the horse’s free movement and willingness to change speeds on command are always essential.

Cow Horse Stop

For a cow horse stop, the horse’s front end doesn’t pedal to balance the hindquarters’ sliding. Instead, the horse’s front legs move more abruptly to allow him to change directions when the cow turns.

“If the cow and horse move down the fence then stop at the same time, the horse would keep moving down the fence while the cow changed directions and got away,” Ralston says. “The reining stop with sliders is not practical for working cows.”

Ralston says that for a well-trained horse, the easiest way to change from a reining stop to the stop needed for cattle work is to change the shoes. Ralston chooses back shoes for cattle work that allow the horse to move through the footing with his hind hooves but that have more friction than those that allow for a sliding stop.

To stop for a cow horse class, position your body just as when stopping in a reining class. While the horse will move differently, your position remains the same. As you move with the cow down the fence, you want your shoulder, hip, and heel to align.

The trained horse will speed to take you to the spot that will stop the cow. The momentum of the horse should naturally move your shoulders behind your hips. With your shoulders back, you’ll be balanced for the stop.

Note that in either stop, your body position should be relaxed with your shoulders back. If you lean forward on a cow turn, you can get thrown forward while the horse tries to change direction. In that case, the horse has all your weight on his front end—making his job difficult. Instead, keep your shoulders slightly back to be ready for any western stop.

This article appeared in the November/December 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Read the first installment of this series, demonstrating the difference in turns between reining and cow horse classes.

The post The Difference in Reining and Cow Horse Stops appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

To compete in reining or working cow horse competitions, your horse will need to turn quickly in response to your cues. In reining, the move is a “turnaround,” or spin—the horse moves forward around a pivot foot and continues the move until directed to stop.

For cow horse classes, your horse will also need to turn with precision. However, he’ll turn with his weight shifted back so he can move on to follow the cow in any new direction.

Trainer Aaron Ralston explains that all moves for reining or working cow horse events mirror—or were inspired by—horses on cattle ranches.

“Historically, riders wanted to show off their best-trained, most obedient horses,” he says. “While there’s little structure to working cattle in a natural environment, training your horse to do complex maneuvers shows skill and athleticism. The reining turnaround became that signature move that could be judged on a point system. Then when working cattle, your horse needs to be ready to turn sharply in any direction and to change directions often.”

A reining turn forces the horse’s weight to the inside.

“If the horse needed to stop and change directions quickly, he’d have to take a shuffle step before being able to leave in a new direction,” Ralston continues. “The ‘cow turn’ allows him to shift his weight back so that he can change directions without shuffling or regaining balance.”

Use the Clock

Horses should turn precisely—no matter which type of turn is requested. Ralston says he’s often asked about how to cue for the different turns needed in reining and cow horse events.

To explain how to cue for each turn, he teaches riders to envision a clock face over the top of the horse. Everything straight in front of you and the horse’s poll is 12 o’clock. Straight behind you toward the tail is 6 o’clock. Three and 9 o’clock are positioned at your right and left legs. Knowing these positions will help you know where to move your feet, rein and chin positions to cue for the different turns.

Reining Turns

In reining, you want forward motion into the turn. The outside foot is to cross over the inside front foot. The inside hind leg is the predominant pivot foot that bears most of the weight. The outside hind foot helps the horse balance and propels him around.

When being judged, the inside hind foot can move within a small area, but you don’t want that leg to displace into a new area. If the foot stays in the same area throughout the turn, you won’t incur a deduction.

The inside hind hoof moves underneath the center of the horse, right below the rider. That’s the pivot point. The more the horse contracts together over the pivot point, the faster he can move.

Imagine a figure skater who spins faster when pulling her arms into her center. The horse will also spin most quickly when his body is tucked and his pivot hoof reaches far under his body.

When you’re ready to start the reining turn to the right, you want your horse’s inside front hoof to step to 3 o’clock continuously to produce the balance point for the optimum turn. To achieve this, use three body cues: Move your inside foot off the horse and point it to 3 o’clock while your outside leg supports the horse without constant cueing.

Lastly, move your chin to 3 o’clock. When you move your chin, other body cues (including your shoulders and hips) naturally follow. Riding one-handed, move your hand above the saddle horn and toward 3 o’clock.

“I like to sit very neutrally with my shoulder, hip and heel alignment in place,” Ralston says. “The cues with the three body parts will tell the horse the destination I expect.”

Ralston says he makes sure to cue the horse once and expect perpetual motion. He doesn’t want to constantly kick the horse, but to teach the horse to keep going until he cues for something different.

If the horse needs encouragement, he will use his outside leg until the horse returns to the speed he wants. He says that if he always pushes with his outside leg, he finds that horses hunt for a change in leg pressure so that they can be done.

“If I’m always pushing with my outside leg, then he’s thinking, ‘When does that outside leg come off, when do I get to quit?’” Ralston says. “That creates a horse that takes smaller steps and is waiting to be done.”

When it’s time to stop the turn, take both legs off the horse and shift your weight to your legs. Return your reining hand to the middle of the horse’s neck and say “whoa.”

Working Cow Horse Turns

“A horse needs to be able to turn in any manner necessary that affects a cow’s flight zone in relation to the destination you want the cow to go,” Ralston says. “Typically, you won’t be making a cow go somewhere. Instead, you shut the door on all the options and open the door to the direction you’d like her to go. It’s pressure and release. The cow releases herself from the pressure the horse puts on and goes where she feels free.”

Ralston says if a cow goes somewhere, she’s going to look there before she takes a step. If you want a cow to go straight ahead but she looks to the right, you need to be able to get to the right side of the cow’s vision to block that move.

If a cow is looking at you and wanting to move toward you, you won’t want to do a reining turn. That type of turn with a forward swing would get into the cow’s flight zone and chase her around you. Instead, you’ll turn the hands of the clock past 3 o’clock, shifting your horse’s weight back.

To initiate the cow turn, move your foot, chin, and hands to 5 o’clock. When the horse’s front hoof turns to that increased turn directive, he has to shift his weight backward. The inside hind foot becomes the pivot foot. With the horse’s weight shifted back, you’ll be ready to go wherever you need to work the cow. The horse will be ready to drive off or turn.

“You could compare this movement in the horse to an athlete,” Ralston says. “Think of a basketball player or volleyball player with a wide stance, ready to move in any direction at any moment, depending on where the ball goes. In this position, you’re always ready.”

Will you ever use a reining turn while working a cow? Ralston says he uses the initial cue of the turn (without the constant spinning) when he wants to send a cow away from him in a defensive move. Once the cow is moving away, he’ll most likely cue the cow turn in the next move.

This article about turns in reining and working cow horse events appeared in the October 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Perfect Your Reining and Working Cow Horse Turns appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Crossing water is one of those things that’s either fun to do with your horse, or it’s exasperating—there doesn’t seem to be much middle ground. However, if a horse is trained to cross water willingly, it’s easy and very useful.

To teach your horse to cross water, pick a water crossing that isn’t too deep so that you don’t get into trouble. Generally, the narrower the water crossing, the easier it is to get the horse to the other side. However, the narrower the crossing, the more likely the horse is to try to jump it instead of going through it. An area without heavy mud is better because if the horse feels his front feet sinking in the mud before he even gets to the water, you’re going to have more trouble getting through.

First Steps to Crossing Water

Ideally, you’ll want to start introducing your horse to water crossing by following a rider on a more experienced horse through the water the first few times. In some situations you won’t have another person to help you, however, so we’ll treat this as if you’re by yourself.

Start by riding your horse back and forth beside the water a few times. This lets him see the water, and turning back and forth also lets him know that you’re the one calling the shots. Occasionally when a horse gets near water, he will get nervous and stop listening to you. The more your horse does this, the more you should turn back and forth before attempting to cross the water.

NOTE: When turning your horse back and forth, always turn toward the water. I never turn away, because if my horse is nervous, he might bolt away once he’s facing away from the water. Also, for the purpose of this exercise, I don’t want him thinking that turning away from the water is an option.

Approaching the Water

Once your horse is listening well, it’s time to approach the water. Pick the spot where you’re going to cross. You must be very specific here. Don’t attempt to just cross the water wherever—you want to cross at that one specific spot. If you’re too vague, your horse might take advantage of your indecision and go near the water but not through it.

It is now your job to keep your horse’s nose pointed at that spot no matter what he does. If he spooks, bolts, backs up, et cetera, you still need to keep his nose pointed at the spot you want to cross. If you can do that, eventually the rest of the horse is going to follow his nose. Approach the spot straight on; don’t come in on an angle, or it will be too easy for him to veer off to the side.

Walk your horse toward the water; chances are he will get close and then stop. When he stops, just sit there and let him look. Take all pressure off him and pet him if you can. If you let him stand for a minute, this will let your horse know that this spot is a good place to be.

This is important, because if your horse starts to really resist going into the water and you end up in an argument, it’s easy to find yourself farther away from the water than where you started. If you let him have this one rest spot, at least you will be able to get back to it and start over from there.

Now that he’s standing and looking at the water, chances are he will start moving again after a few moments. If he moves toward the water, allow him to go. If he tries to move to one side or the other, keep his nose pointed at the spot and then use your legs to keep him straight.

If your horse backs up, squeeze very lightly with your legs. Eventually he’s going to stop, and the moment he takes a step forward, release the leg pressure. If he takes 20 steps backward and only one step forward, I’m still happy.

Keep working at this. Most horses that don’t want to cross water will give three or four good attempts to get away by turning to the right and left and by backing up. If you stay with this and remain calm while keeping your horse’s nose pointed straight at your designated crossing spot, your horse is going to start to see that there is no escape.

Once he realizes this, usually he’ll take a few steps closer to the water. Be sure to let him stand and relax when he does this. The biggest mistake you can make is to start squeezing and kicking when your horse starts moving forward. He’s already doing the right thing by moving ahead, so don’t ask for too much.

Investigating the Water

Eventually your horse is going to get right up to the water. Chances are high that he’ll now start pawing at the water and put his nose down to investigate. Allow him do this, because even though he’s not crossing the water, he’s interested enough to be investigating it instead of running away from it.

It might take two minutes and it might take 20, but if you keep up with this, eventually he’s going to cross the water. How long it takes depends on how quickly he understands that moving forward is the only option.

Be aware that your horse might jump a narrow crossing, so you might have to grab the horn or some mane if that happens. When horses cross for the first time, some will cross at a snail’s pace. However, most will rush through once they get partway in. Just let your horse rush out and then walk some big circles once you reach the other side. Keep doing that until he is calm and relaxed.

Cementing Success in Crossing Water

Once your horse has settled, I recommend crossing back and forth several times. You’ve done the hardest part, so repeat it until your horse is doing it easily so you won’t have to start at square one another day.

Once you’ve crossed a few times, ask him to go through without letting him stop or put his head down to investigate and think about it. You now want him crossing the water as if he’s expected to, not like he has to decide whether it’s a good idea each time.

If you have a horse that keeps on jumping water instead of going through it, you there are a couple of things you can try. One is to keep crossing back and forth until your horse becomes a bit tired. At this point, most horses start to slow down and think about the crossing instead of overreacting.

Also Read: Teach Your Horse to Go Through Water on the Trail

If I have a horse that will not stop jumping the water, sometimes I’ll find a water crossing to practice that’s very wide, where the horse can’t reach the other side if he jumps. A shallow pond or a round pen after a heavy rain are good choices. Once the horse realizes he can’t jump to the other side, he’ll likely start going in properly.

Try to end your session on a calm note. If you repeat the water crossing lesson a few days in a row, you will likely have a horse that crosses water willingly for the rest of his life.

All the best to you and your horse!

This article about crossing water with your horse appeared in the August 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you’ve ever wanted to enter a barrel race at a fun day or gymkhana, you’ll find that your horsemanship skills will help you round the barrels with balance and communicate to your horse when you want to go fast and when it’s time to slow or rate your speed so that you won’t be out of control as you turn.

Barrel racing coach and competitor Kelly Kennedy-Joseph shares how three classical horsemanship skills apply to her sport. As she likes to say, “smooth is fast.” You’ll need to have your horse listening to your body before you add speed.

“Even if you keep your horse at half speed, but have his attention and connection, you’ll do better than someone who runs but has little control,” Kennedy-Joseph says. “If you go fast without connection and balance, you’ll pull too much and lose your balance. Your hands are a guide tool, but your body position tells the horse where to be.

“Knowing that you can get the horse’s hip driven up underneath him is important,” she continues. “When you sit down, you want him to slow down and sit down, too. You want to keep his shoulder up and move his nose tipped in. Barrel racing is about how you place the horse’s body and asking him to respond to your body. You want a connection with the horse, and not to rely only on rein cues.”

Collection Matters in Barrel Racing

Just as a dressage rider can cue a horse to round and work in a frame, Kennedy-Joseph says she wants her horses to frame up. While barrel racing participants may not need the amount of collection required for dressage competition, the same horsemanship principles apply.

She explains that barrel horses need to know how to lift their rib cages and use their entire bodies in order to move around the barrels with balance. She works on the classic horsemanship skill of collection and getting her barrel racing horse to round when she’s warming up away from the barrels.

To ask the horse to use his body well, Kennedy-Joseph says she rolls her pelvis under slightly and uses her core. The horse should match what she’s doing in her body. She tells her students to imagine pressing their belly buttons toward their backbones.

“You can’t expect a horse to turn at full speed,” Kennedy-Joseph says. “You need your horse to rate his speed to get around the barrel safely. Make sure the horse is slowed down so he knows where to put his feet.”

If your horse responded well to collecting when warming up, he’ll respond to your body aids and know to listen when you use the same body cue at the barrel.

“When I roll my hips under, I want my horse to slow slightly and collect as well,” Kennedy-Joseph says. “I want my horse to know that when I tip my pelvis under, that means he should get his legs up underneath him, too. As you’re leaving the barrel, move your pelvis forward. That’s a signal to your horse to extend his strides and move out.”

Horsemanship Skills When Barrel Racing

When approaching a barrel, it’s time to put all the skills together. You’ll move straight ahead toward the barrel, find the perfect place to slow down for your horse, shift your pelvis under and slow your speed for a turn that’s in control.

It’s OK to roll your shoulders under slightly while barrel racing, even if that doesn’t feel like the horsemanship position you’re used to. You’ll need to lower your center of gravity around the barrel. Keep your hands low and bend your elbow slightly in the direction of your turn. This will push your horse up into the turn and guide him around the turn. Practice this move near a barrel or as you ride around the arena without a barrel in sight.

“It shouldn’t be a pulling war to get around the barrel,” Kennedy-Joseph says. “Instead, you’ll slow, then use your outside leg to support your horse around the barrel. It’s not kicking, it’s guiding. Then once you get around the barrel, wait for him to finish the turn. Let him take you around the barrel. Then, square your shoulders and tip your pelvis forward so that you can move out to the next barrel.”

Kennedy-Joseph says horses differ slightly when it comes to when to give this slow-down-and-rounding cue in the line to the barrel. If you’re riding a horse that runs freely, you’ll want to sit down and cue your horse to slow and collect a few strides before the barrel.

If you have a horse that will turn sharply, like a horse that was trained for cow work, you’ll need to roll your pelvis under (sitting on your pockets) and ride to the barrel more closely before you ask him to round and turn.

If your horse listens to you, you’ll be able to choose when to speed up and when to rate and slow down to get around the barrel.

“It’s not about going fast at all costs,” Kennedy-Joseph says. “It’s about choosing your speed and staying in control.”

Meet the Barrel Racing Trainer

Kelly Kennedy-Joseph has been active in barrel racing since she qualified for Little Britches Rodeos. She now coaches riders from her Berthoud, Colo., facility and races at the professional level nationwide.

This article about using horsemanship skills in barrel racing appeared in the September 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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In reining or working cow horse competitions, you’ll need to show that your horse can change leads on command while keeping a steady loping cadence. To score well in these western classes, you’ll need to perform lead changes as you lope to the center of the arena. Your body position will tell your horse when to pick up the opposite lead.

Here, trainer Aaron Ralston helps you plan for your lead changes using a five-stride pattern. You’ll position your horse to move straight ahead, change your body cues to change leads, then move straight ahead.

To make this move smooth in the show pen, you’ll practice anywhere except the center of the arena during practice. He’ll also help you practice the counter-canter so that your horse waits for your direction before changing leads or directions. Your cues and the location where you practice your changes will keep your horse listening instead of anticipating the switch.

“The perfect reining lead change is when you have to look twice to see if it actually happened,” Ralston says. “In a show, the judge wants to see an even cadence and the rhythm maintained. The horse’s head shouldn’t go up and his tail shouldn’t switch. His hip shouldn’t hop to get quickly into the new lead. The horse changes leads and continues on the same path as he came into the center of the arena.”

Getting the Lead Change

Before attempting a lead change, warm up your horse by working through the western gaits. Next, lope down the long centerline of the arena. Ralston suggests changing leads when you’re riding straight ahead, and not practicing continuously after loping circles at the center of the arena.

To get the longest line, ride straight through the middle of the arena or from one corner to another, creating a diagonal line. Give yourself space to cue your horse as he moves ahead five strides. “I establish a five-stride straight line in the middle of the arena,” Ralston says. “I want to get my horse balanced and straight first. I don’t want him leaning one way or the other. The first and second stride, I keep my legs in position to maintain a left lead. I change leads on stride three, then hold my legs in position for the new lead as I ride straight ahead for strides four and five.”

When it’s time to cue on stride three, Ralston shifts his weight—moving from one back pocket to the other—and allows his legs to move naturally in response to the shift.

“It’s the shift from one pocket to the other that presses one leg against the horse and releases the other,” he says. “Initially, my front leg will be by the front cinch to get the horse’s shoulder up and straight. When I weight my outside pocket, my leg will naturally move toward the back cinch. I rock back toward the outside hip so that I can drive the horse’s outside leg up through the inside front leg of the new lead.

“The whole time, my hand, chin, and eyes should point straight ahead,” Ralston continues. “That gives the horse the confidence to know where we’re going. The cue comes from the cadence and rhythm in my body and how my legs and my weighted pockets tell him to adjust his body.”

He reminds you not to move quickly or “jab” your horse for a lead change at a specific point.

“With the five-stride plan, you give him three strides of a window to figure out when he’s ready to change,” says Ralston. “When I release my leg and the other leg is coming, that tells the horse, ‘Find your lead change.’ I’m letting him find the right place.”

Ralston says that only after he has completed the five-stride change will he guide his horse to the left or right to turn by cuing with his reins. Then he will decide whether to round the corner and keep the horse on the correct lead, or to ride in a counter-canter (purposely moving in a circle with the horse’s leading leg on the outside).

Avoiding Anticipation of the Lead Change

Ralston says if you always change leads in the middle of the arena and then ride on the correct lead, your horse will quickly anticipate the change and the new direction.

“The most important thing for me in lead changes is that a horse doesn’t associate changing leads with changing direction,” the western trainer says. “I rarely change leads by circling, then changing leads, and then circling in the other direction. Instead, I change leads somewhere on the long line, then I change directions at the short end of the arena and stay in a counter-canter.”

Why does it matter? If a horse begins to change directions into a new circle before he changes leads, he won’t move with balance. His shoulder will drop, and he’ll work hard to counter-balance his body.

“If the horse is mentally ahead of me and turns before I cue him, then his shoulders will lean to where he’s ready to go,” Ralston says. “If that shoulder is leaning, then I won’t be able to move his hip and change leads smoothly. I don’t want the association of changing directions with changing leads. Once I change the lead and establish that for a few strides, then I can change directions.”

Counter-Canter

Avoid your horse anticipating the new direction by riding him in a counter-canter often. Practice your five-stride lead change, ride straight at the end of the pattern, then direct him to the left or right. No matter what lead your horse is on, he should follow your direction cue without changing leads again.

“Before I go to a horse show, I will lope circles and then establish the five-stride pattern in the center,” Ralston says. “I’ll change leads, but after stride five, I continue in the counter-canter. I don’t change directions but follow the same loping circle I just completed. That’s high-level and difficult, but if that tool is established in the horse, then I’ll be able to keep my horse’s attention. If I don’t practice this way, my horse will think ‘change directions, change leads.’”

Ralston says you must keep your legs active to keep your horse working in the counter-canter.

“Once I change leads, my new leg comes on and establishes the new lead,” he says. “If I’m loping left to right, my left leg comes on and changes into the right lead. Then I balance the horse’s chin and keep my left leg on slightly and my hand directs him to a left circle, into the counter-canter. Keeping that leg on tells him not to change back into the left lead and to maintain his hip to the outside of his shoulders.”

If you practice your timing, allow your horse space to change his leads, and work your counter-canter, you’ll help your horse listen to every cue.

“This teaches him to be patient and only change leads when asked,” Ralston says.

This article about perfecting your western lead change appeared in the June 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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