0 ITEMS
  • My Account
  • Young Rider
  • Tack Shop
  • Podcast
  • Contact Us
Subscribe Podcast
Enable cache13
Home Blog Page 1028

Newborn Foal Care

7

Foal
After foaling, the umbilical cord ideally will break at the right time, but may also break too soon, or not break at all. If the cord breaks too soon, there is little you can do. If, however, the umbilicus does not break when the mare stands, you must break it.

Wrap your hand around the cord and grasp it firmly (don’t squeeze it). If blood is still flowing through, you’ll feel a pulsation. Wait. Once the pulse subsides, it is safe to break it. A short distance from the foal’s abdomen, you will see a slight narrowing. Grasp it firmly on both sides of this narrowed area and pull. The cord should separate readily; if it doesn’t, your veterinarian will be able to do the job.

When the umbilicus breaks, the stump must be treated with iodine. Fill a 6 cc syringe case with 7 percent iodine and invert it over the stump. This will cauterize the site and prevent potential infection.

Now your foal must get up. With a normal pregnancy and normal delivery, this should take an hour or less. If by an hour the foal hasn’t been able to make it up, try to help it. Occasionally you must physically pick the foal up and balance it. The best way to do this is to cradle the foal between its chest and rump, but if it refuses to stay up or can’t be lifted, you have a problem. The foal must nurse, and if it can’t it may run into the next potential difficulty.

Assuming that the foal is up (either by itself or with help), it will want to eat. Some foals go right to the nipple, but many will attempt to nurse everything but the right thing – the mare’s elbows or hocks, the wall, the feed bucket, even you. You can guide such a foal to the nipple, place it in the youngster’s mouth, squeeze a little milk for the foal to taste, and it will shake its head, spit it out, and wobble over and try to nurse the door.

If this persists, or if your foal is having trouble standing, your vet will need to milk some colostrum out of the mare and feed it to the foal by passing a stomach tube. The youngster must have the colostrum, which contains important antibodies that will protect the young animal from infection.

A newborn foal’s rectum contains hard, marble-sized fecal matter called meconium. If you see your foal straining at any time, or you have not observed a bowel movement within six hours, administer an enema. It’s a good idea to buy a couple of commercial human enemas before the foal is due. A phosphate enema is preferable to a mineral oil enema because it is considerably less messy.

The morning following delivery, turn mare and foal out by themselves in a small paddock. Exercise is important for both. If the weather is nice, they can stay out all day. If the weather is really rotten, allow them to move around the barn aisle.

Potential Problems

A fairly common problem seen at birth or shortly thereafter is entropion (the inversion of one or both lower eyelids). If not corrected, the inverted eyelid will rub the eyeball, causing ulceration and eventual blindness in the eye. Correction is simple, but it must be done immediately. If you notice the condition in your foal, call your veterinarian.

Other possible problems may involve the foal’s legs, the two main difficulties being contracted tendons and angular (“crooked”) deformities. A foal with contracted tendons often cannot stand, so the affected foal should not be turned out. Stall rest and support bandages are required, sometimes along with medication to help reduce the contraction. If the condition is serious, the foal may need to be tube fed for a few days.

Angular deformities, unless severe, will not prevent your foal from leading a fairly normal life, but they may prevent the animal from becoming a performance horse. Time is often the only remedy needed, but when self-correction does not occur, let the veterinarian decide how long to wait before intervening. Simple periosteal elevation works remarkably well in most cases.

Two possible umbilical difficulties can occur in the young foal, both potentially lethal yet readily corrected: umbilical hernia and pervious urachus.

Next to angular deformities, umbilical hernias are probably the most common defects in young foals. Even so, they are far from usual. The problem is present at birth, but may not become apparent until days or weeks later, when a bulge appears on the underside of the foal’s belly.

A hernia is the protrusion of an organ or tissue through an abnormal opening, in this case a deficit in the abdominal wall. Hernias range in size from the diameter of a pencil (or smaller) up to a hole 2 inches or so in diameter. In the case of the umbilical hernia, the hernia is not the problem; the danger of a loop of intestine dropping through and becoming strangulated is. Even the larger ones often repair themselves, so unless a loop of intestine drops into one, just leave it alone and observe regularly. In addition to your own observations, have the veterinarian check it periodically.

If the hernia doesn’t reduce on its own, or if the intestine is involved, one of two procedures can be performed. If the hernia is smaller than two fingers in diameter, the vet can clamp it; this is best done in the fall or winter when the flies are gone. If, however, the intestine is involved, don’t wait. If the opening is greater than two fingers, surgery is necessary.

The other condition is pervious urachus, which involves the structure within the umbilical cord that carries urine from the fetal bladder to the placenta. This is supposed to close at birth and usually does, but occasionally it stays open (“pervious”) or partially open. In rare occasions it may reopen a day or so after foaling, and become infected.

This often goes unnoticed because of a lack of inspection, so make inspection a part of your routine. On the morning after foaling, and every morning for a few days thereafter, feel the stump. If it is wet, call the veterinarian. Cauterization with silver nitrate sticks for a few days will take care of the problem in most cases.

Preventive Measures

Most likely your mare will present you with a normal, healthy foal. In that case, you must first get a halter on the foal! Check the halter regularly for correct fit, and replace it as needed. Second, use that halter. Handle the foal, pet it and lead it around to let it become accustomed to the halter and to being handled.

Within the next day or so after foaling, worm your foal with an appropriate paste wormer. This will help in controlling foal heat scours (diarrhea that occurs at about eight to ten days of age), as well as assuring that the foal gets off to a parasite-free start in life. If diarrhea does develop, cleanse the area with warm water and apply a coat of petroleum jelly. If it persists for more than two days, or has a strong odor, call the veterinarian. Continue to worm the foal at one-month intervals until it is an adult, at which time it can go to a two-month schedule. Shortly after birth, also give the foal a paste gut inoculant available through your vet.

Assuming your mare was properly vaccinated and is thus able to protect her foal through nursing, you need to begin the foal’s own vaccination program (depending on your area) at 90 days of age. Your veterinarian will guide you as to what schedule to follow after the initial vaccinations.

The key to raising a healthy foal, and ultimately a healthy horse, is observation. Other than you, no one is more concerned with your foal’s well-being than your veterinarian, so look your foal over every day and call the doctor if you notice anything out of the ordinary.

Note: This article is provided as basic information, and is not intended to supersede veterinary consultation. Always talk to your veterinarian regarding any equine health problems you might encounter.

See all mares and foals articles >>

How to Tell a Horse’s Age by Looking at Its Teeth

7

By Rachel Parker

We’ve all heard the saying, “Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth.” Why? Because you can determine a horse’s age by looking at his teeth and it would be rude to try to put a dollar value on a gift. It would be like sending a friend to Tiffany’s to see how much your new boyfriend spent on those earrings he gave you for Christmas.

Horse Teeth

But truth be told, if you really did peel back the lips of your gift horse, would you really know how old he was anyway? Probably not. Fortunately, learning to determine equine age is not that much more complicated than counting the rings on a tree trunk — you just have to know what to look for. Continue reading and you’ll soon be lining up the horses at your barn in chronological order.

Tooth Wear

As a horse ages, his teeth wear down in a specific pattern. This results in characteristics that are common to all equine teeth as they approach certain ages. Both the temporary and permanent teeth follow the same sequence of wear: from the lower jaw to the upper jaw, and from front to back — or from the central incisor to the intermediate incisor to the back comer incisor.

The first sign of wear is the loss of the dark cup, a hollow space formed by the central enamel, which becomes filled with food. As the tooth wears, the pulp becomes exposed. This is referred to as a dental star. Also, when a tooth is young, its top, or table, is oval-shaped. As it wears down it becomes rounder, then triangular.

Galvayne’s Groove

Another way to assess age is by looking for Galvayne’s Groove. Found on the corner incisor, this line appears to travel from the top of the tooth to the bottom as the horse ages. It first appears in 10-year-olds. By 15 years of age, Galvayne’s Groove is halfway down the corner incisor. At 20, it reaches the full length of the tooth. After that it begins to recede from the gum line. It is halfway gone at the age of 25 and completely gone by 30.

The Shape of Teeth

As the tooth wears down, it changes from a long oval shape to a round shape and finally to a triangular one. When the horse reaches his 16th year, the central incisors become triangular. As with the wear of the dark cups, the pattern continues to the intermediate incisor in the horse’s 17th year. At 18, the back corner incisor becomes triangular, too.

Dental Fraud

Unfortunately, not everyone involved with horses uses this knowledge for good. Unscrupulous horse dealers may try to alter their horses’ teeth so they can pass them off as younger or older animals. They may pull the temporary teeth of a younger horse so that the permanent teeth will come in faster, making the horse appear to be older. Also, the teeth may be bishoped, or drilled, so that black marks appear instead of the white dental stars that characterize older horses. This effect may also be achieved by staining or burning the tables of the teeth.

However, these alterations can be detected by checking to see if the central enamel that forms the cup is visible. If the teeth have been bishoped, this enamel will not be present. Also, the slanting of the horse’s teeth and the shape of the teeth are unalterable. A younger horse’s teeth form a vertical angle as they meet each other, but as he ages, the angle juts out more and more, approaching an outward 90 degrees. And as mentioned, younger teeth are more oval, becoming more triangular and narrow with age.

Armed with this knowledge, you can make an informed decision when buying a horse — or just sneak a peak at the price tag on that gift.

Further Reading

Horse Fly Control

12

Flymask
Are both you and your horse are being driven crazy by flies? The choice you make in fly control products can be made easier if you understand the different types of products that are on the market.

On the Horse

Sprays are by far the most popular type of on-animal product available, although shampoos, roll-ons and wipes are becoming increasingly popular. The majority of equine fly application products are repellents, which are designed to keep flies from biting and feeding on your horse.

The Pyrethrins

The active ingredient in most on-animal fly applications is based on the pyrethrins, a group of chemicals found in chrysanthemums. The chrysanthemums that supply pyrethrins grow mostly in Africa, and must be hand picked and processed in order to obtain the chemical. It is this elaborate and painstaking procedure that makes pyrethrins an expensive ingredient in fly control products.

Chemical Control

There are other ingredients included in on-animal fly control products besides pyrethrins. A type of synthetic chemical known as a synergist is added specifically to make pyrethrins and other insecticides/repellents more potent. Entomologists have discovered that insects have detoxifying enzymes in their systems that can break down the pyrethrins. Synergists inhibit these enzymes, giving the product greater power to invade the insect’s body.

Covering Up

Some insects feed on the secretions of the horse’s eyes and nose. Some fly masks cover just the top portion of the horse’s face, while others also include ear covers to keep biting gnats from irritating the ears. Leg netting is another method of keeping flies from making contact with the skin.

Premise Control

  • Aerosol sprays are usually administered through automatically timed systems located in each stall, periodically releasing a spray of pyrethrins-based insecticide that mists down upon the environment. The spray also mists the horse occupying the stall, protecting the animal safely.
  • Feed-through products are added to the horse’s feed on a daily basis with the intent of making the manure sterile and unusable as food to fly larvae. Any larvae that is hatched in the manure produced by a horse on a feed-through product will die before it has the chance to develop. In order for the product to be effective, all the horses in a given area must be ingesting the product. Otherwise, larvae will simply hatch in the untreated manure and the fly population will go unhindered.
  • Fly traps include fly strips and fly containers. Fly strips are usually yellow ribbons of sticky tape that can be suspended from stall ceilings and other areas within the stable. Flies are attracted to colors in the orange and yellow spectrum; drawn to the strip, they stick to it once they alight. Container traps usually use bait systems, where flies are attracted to a jar or bag containing water and a food or hormone bait. The fly crawls into the container, and the clear sides confuse it, since flies do not recognize glass or see-through plastic. Exhaustion overcomes the insect, and it drops into the water and drowns.
  • Fly parasitoids are gaining in popularity as an effective fly control method that is both safe and gentle for the horse and the environment. The most commonly sold fly parasitoids are tiny wasps in the Chalcididae family. These wasps, which are much smaller than flies, feed on the larvae of the fly while it is still in the horse’s manure. These wasps do not bite or sting humans or other animals, and are so tiny that they are rarely even noticed.

Good Management

When all is said and done, the real secret to successful fly control is proper stable management. Frequent disposal of soiled bedding and droppings, as well as standing water, is essential to controlling flies. Stabling horses away from cattle is another way to keep flies at bay, because parasitic flies are particularly drawn to cattle, and these flies will harass horses as well. A combination of on-animal products and premise controls can do wonders to keep your horse happy, healthy and free of those pesky flies.

The author would like to thank entomologists William B. Warner and Fred W. Knapp for their assistance in preparing this article.

Further Reading

Charging Up the Lazy Horse

23

Western pintoOnce upon a time Sparky was one fired-up horse. Responsive, alert, ready to do what his owner asked. Now, Sparky acts more like a fouled spark plug sluggish, unresponsive and hard to get going.

Then there’s Garfield, who was never much of a go-getter. He has always had an ambling, laid-back kind of attitude. Thumps to his side — doesn’t matter. A smack of the crop — no big deal. Getting Garfield going is like starting a car in fourth gear. In fact, the only thing Garfield is good at is eating, sleeping and applying the brakes.

Why is it that some horses are just naturally full of energy while other horses’ get-up-and-go got up and went? There are all kinds of reasons why a horse acts lazy, and world-class trainer Buddy Fisher has probably seen them all. He shares his experience and advice on getting your lazy horse to change his meandering ways.

Getting Physical

Before tackling a re-training regimen, first rule out physical causes for his sluggishness. If your horse is unhealthy or unfit, he may not just be reluctant; he may be incapable of delivering what you’re asking for. Have a veterinarian perform a thorough exam, including blood work to look for underlying disease, a fecal exam to check for worms, lameness evaluation and dental check for teeth that could be causing a problem with the bit or interfering with digestion. Also discuss if your horse’s fitness level and diet are appropriate for the amount of work you’re asking of him.

Physical exertion in hot weather is much harder for an unfit horse and could cause him to be unresponsive. Besides that, some horses just don’t work well in the heat. You may be unintentionally overdoing it in the heat, especially if you’re riding too hard in one long block of time. Ride for shorter periods, a couple times a day, instead of for one long period.

The Rider Did It

Once you’ve ruled out physical causes and your horse still does his Pokey impersonation, it’s time to take a hard look at your riding and training routine. Much of the time, rider errors are behind the “laziness” in a horse, and you may be contributing to, or even causing the problem. Following are some common ways a rider can inadvertently create a lazy horse from a good one:

Bad cues.

Often, particularly among young or novice riders, the horse responds poorly to aids — if he responds at all — because the rider is not providing proper cues. “A lot of times, the experience level of the rider doesn’t match up with the horse in order to keep him light and responsive,” Buddy notes. “If your horse becomes more and more dull and you end up using more leg pressure until you’re squeezing him with all your might just to get him to move, you’ve desensitized him.”

To reverse that, put him through a basic fitness/exercise program to lighten him up. Start with five minutes of walking, build up to five minutes of a working trot in each direction, then walk for a few minutes to let your horse catch his breath. Then lope or gallop the horse for about five minutes to the left and five to the right. Build on that over several weeks by increasing the lope times up to 10 minutes in each direction.

When working the horse, keep in mind that instilling forward motion is critical from the start. “Before you can start working on anything else, you need to gain this. First do this at the walk, then at the trot,” says Buddy.

Problems with lack of response arise if there’s any hesitation in the horse moving forward, and nothing is done to correct it at this point. Ask your horse to move forward by lightly squeezing your legs, and if you don’t get an immediate, noticeable response, follow up with a crop. Then keep him moving forward for quite a distance.

“Don’t stop him after only 30 yards or so; doing this can confuse him,” says Buddy. “He’ll wonder, ‘Does my rider want me to move forward, or stop?'”

Also work on a variety of maneuvers: Move the horse’s shoulders and hips, ask him for two-tracks (leg yield) and half-passes at the trot, back up, do turns on the forehand and on the haunches and so on. The idea is to do plenty of calisthenics-type exercises where you keep an even cadence going. “But if you don’t have the proper feel, balance and timing with your hands, seat and legs, it’s all for naught,” warns Buddy. “A high percentage of the time, most nonprofessional riders use way too much hand and not enough leg.”

Western dressage lope

Work in a large area with good footing. Buddy prefers a hard base with 3 to 4 inches of loose sandy loam on top, preferably unfenced so the horse has to listen for directions, and not rely on the fence for guides. “When you put your reins in the center of the horse’s neck, he should continue in the direction he’s going until you tell him to change.”

Use much lighter cues, but make sure the horse understands what you’re asking. For the first day or two, use light pressure with your legs, and if the horse doesn’t respond, reinforce with a crop or a little roll of the spur. However, if you’re not succeeding in lightening your cues after spending time reschooling the basics, seek help from a professional trainer. “Even professional trainers seek help when they’re not making progress,” says Buddy. A good trainer can assess your riding and how the horse is responding, and give you insight into what you may be doing wrong.

Blind focus.

Riders can foster laziness by concentrating too much on the technical elements of their sport and forgetting about the physical conditioning. For example, if you ask a pleasure horse to drop his neck and lope along a wall, day in and day out, you’re not giving your horse enough body-strengthening exercises to keep him fit.

In addition to working on specific elements of a discipline, you should do plenty of conditioning exercises. Counter-bending, counter-cantering, roll-backs, half-passes, turns on the forehand, turns on the haunches, moving the shoulders, moving the hips, trotting, driving up into the bridle, picking them up are all good maneuvers for this, as long as your horse already knows how to do them. A variety will not only keep him in good physical shape, but also prevent boredom.

Burn-out.

Asking your horse for too much for too long can lead to reduced performance, burn-out and resistance, whether you’re training for the show-ring or just an ambitious schooling-ring or trail rider.

“Even the really great horses are built up to peak at certain events,” Buddy says. “Let’s say you’re preparing your horse for a world show or Congress. Throughout the year, you’ll show this horse at a consistent level, but you don’t ask him to give 100 percent all the time, because he is right on the edge — mentally and physically. If you try to hold him there too long, things are going to start coming apart.”

Plan out your riding season and when you’d like your horse to peak, and let him ease up between the really significant shows or long rides.

Don’t ask your horse to go all out or try to keep a competition horse at his peak for more than four to six weeks or you could find yourself with a sullen, sluggish horse. Plan out your riding season and when you’d like your horse to peak, and let him ease up between the really significant shows or long rides.

If you suspect your horse’s sluggish attitude is a sign he’s already burned out, back off for a couple of weeks, and then try once again to bring the horse back to the level you’re aiming for. This can be done by going back to the basics, by not asking the horse to work at performance levels and by working very lightly on elements specific to his sport.

“For example, if I’m working on turnarounds with a reining horse, I’ll back off and just do a lot of loping and galloping around,” Buddy says. “I won’t do a lot of turning or stopping. And when I do work on stops, it will be at a slower speed, working on functional corrections. If I turn around some, it will just be working on the cadence of the turn.” During this two-week reduction in training, spend time riding the horse in the pasture, in straight lines in different directions to keep the horse going forward and to relax his mind.

After two weeks at a reduced level, step up to your goal level once again. If you meet less resistance than before, and the horse starts adapting better to this higher level, then keep him refreshed through an alternating schedule of backing off a little bit every couple of weeks and then working at the desired level again for the next couple of weeks.

Lazy or Mellow?

Sometimes, you’ll find that the horse just won’t step back up to the higher level. If your horse is healthy and fit, is on a suitable nutrition program, and has been given correct aids and proper training, and he still acts like he’s ready to lay down and take a nap, it could be that your horse really is just a low-energy, laid-back kind of guy.

“This is a horse that has more talent than desire,” says Buddy. “If you try to make these lazier horses perform at 100 percent, if you push them up toward the top of what they can do and try to maintain them there, then you’re going to see mental problems. They’re going to fight this because they don’t want to be performing at that level.”

Figure out where your horse is most comfortable performing and how much he can give before he starts having problems with resentment, dread and lack of interest.

Instead, figure out where your horse is most comfortable performing and how much he can give before he starts having problems with resentment, dread and lack of interest. “If your horse is mentally and physically comfortable at a 60 percent level, then you have to listen to that,” says Buddy. In this situation, you have to make a choice: You can switch to a different sport, compete at a lower, more comfortable level or get another horse.

“We’ve had some reiners, for example, that didn’t have the desire, that didn’t like to go fast or turn around,” says Buddy. “But we turned them into really nice all-around horses, and they liked that better. Maybe it was the variety they liked, or that it wasn’t so physically demanding Some of these horses make really good novice, youth and amateur horses.”

If training sessions with your horse become exercises in futility, neither you nor your horse will enjoy the relationship, and that serves no one.

But if you really need a horse capable of consistent work at higher levels, then selling or leasing your lazy horse and acquiring a more competitive one may be the best thing for both of you. After all, if training sessions with your horse become exercises in futility, neither you nor your horse will enjoy the relationship, and that serves no one. If competition is important to you, then you’ll ultimately be happier working with a horse that can perform at the level you need.

More importantly, your lazy friend will be happier, too, as he works with someone who appreciates his laid-back mind and manners. Says Buddy, “The lazy horse is actually what I look for with beginning and novice riders: A horse that’s a little more patient, who isn’t overly energetic or high-spirited, who’s well-trained but not a big-time performer. Those characteristics in a horse can be great, because the horse is much more forgiving than the real sensitive, top performers. Sometimes the mellow horse is really a jewel.”

Further Reading
Dressage Exercises for the Horse That Won’t Go Forward
Speed Event Schooling Strategies

Grooming for the Health of It

16

Begin grooming sessions by currying, and then brush the coat, mane and tail. “Curry a horse in a circular motion from behind its ears all the way to its dock with a rubber curry,” says hunter and eventing trainer Denna Johnson of Full Partner’s Farm in Gainesville, Florida. “Go down the muscular and fatty parts of the leg, down to the knee and the hock, grooming firmly to make sure the horse gets a massage out of it.”

Curry Comb
Curry Comb

Next, begin brushing. Sheila Schils, Ph.D., an equine science specialist and 1995 Region 4 dressage reserve champion, recommends brushing from the topline down. Be sure to brush the entire body, including legs and face.

Bonnie Cicora, trainer and owner of the Post & Rail, an equestrian facility in Swanton, Ohio, says, “Finish up with the face using a very soft face brush. Always brush in the direction that the hair grows, being very careful around the eyes.”

When grooming, make sure that your brushes are clean, and avoid sharing them to prevent inadvertent transmission of superficial skin diseases.

Flowing Manes & Tails

“Handpicking a tail is ideal,” says Schils, “but…I spray the tail with a finishing spray, let it dry a little, then brush through very slowly, letting the spray help me through it. I lose very few tail hairs.” Using no-tangle preparations and care when grooming the tail, however, will help avoid pulling out hair.

For mane care, Johnson suggests taking a brush and brushing back and forth in the mane, making sure all the dirt comes up out of the scalp. Be sure to get all the way down to the base of the mane.

The Important Hoof

Each day, the hoof should be inspected for cracks and disease, then picked out. To pick a hoof, face the horse’s rear, stand next to the leg, and lean into the horse’s body to shift its weight off the side you’re going to work on. Run your hand down the leg, then lift up the foot with one hand, bending it at a natural angle. With a hoof pick, remove debris from the foot. Some prefer picking from the toe back toward the heel to avoid scratching the frog. Others prefer to work from the heel toward the toe to avoid pushing debris into the heel of the frog. After cleaning the bottom of the foot, clean the sides by brushing off dirt with a short, hard-bristle brush.

From End to End

As a daily practice, gently wipe the corners of the horse’s eyes with a clean washcloth to clear away the mucus or dirt that can collect. Be sure to wipe from the top outside edge of the eye down to the bottom inside corners, so as not to spread bacteria.

Don’t forget to clean under your horse’s dock. “Horses, as they defecate, will accumulate some debris underneath the dock of their tails,” says Schils. This debris can be irritating and cause tail rubbing. Use dampened disposable towelettes to wipe underneath the tail, the tail itself, the anal area, and in between and down the hind legs. Do not reuse these towelettes anywhere else on the horse’s body.

Bath Time

If you are careful, frequent bathing should not cause any extra problems for a healthy hoof. However, Henry Heymering, an AFA-certified journeyman farrier, warns not to let hooves stand in mud or water for any more than a few minutes, or trouble may follow.

Gray horse getting a bath

Regardless of how often a horse is bathed, follow the basics. Wash the entire horse: face, mane, neck, body, legs, tail and underneath the tail. Scrub all the way down to the base of the mane and the tail. Always apply shampoo that has been diluted in water. Never let shampoo dry on the coat, and rinse off all traces of the soap.

Beauty From Within

Good grooming begins with good nutrition. “People bring a horse to me that is 75 pounds underweight, and then don’t understand why they can’t get a good shine on that horse’s coat or get the horse to shed out after winter,” says Johnson. “Check with your vet and make sure your worming, vaccinations and feeding programs are appropriate.”

Further Reading
30 Grooming Tips
Tips for Thicker Tails

Finding Your Lost Horse

36

Not every missing horse falls afoul of crime. Some horses decide to leave on their own. Even so, it’s important to recover your wandering horse as soon as possible. He could be a danger to himself or others.

Horse silhouette at sunrise
Photo: Sari O’Neal/shuttersock

To round up a wandering horse, Robin Lohnes, executive director of the American Horse Protection Association, advises launching a search party on foot or in a vehicle. “Make sure you take a halter, lead rope and a pail of grain to entice him,” she says. “Bring a flashlight if you go at night.

“Horses usually seek out other horses, so alert your neighbors and ask if he’s in their pasture. If you’re along an interstate or main road, alert the state police and animal control.

“Check wooded areas where he might not be in plain view,” she adds. “Make sure he hasn’t fallen through the ice in a pond. Horses are really curious and they think they can fit in areas where they really can’t, especially youngsters, so they might wander into a machine shed and get accidentally caught behind a tractor.” Usually horses that get out on their own don’t go far, so concentrate your first efforts in areas close to home.

Having identification tags for your horse at all times will help to speed up the recovery should it wander astray. Small, circular pet ID tags with your name, address and phone number can either be braided or banded into your horse’s mane.

My Experience With Equine-Assisted Therapy

1

By Gail Suhfras

Therapeutic riding can be an emotional experience for everyone. I had been sidelined from riding because of muscular dystrophy, but I never lost my love for horses – just my ability to stay in the saddle. When I rode for the first time in 12 years, with the assistance of sidewalkers and a leader, I felt complete once again. As I moved through various movements on my horse at a walk, I realized that tears were streaming down my face. I looked around and saw that everyone else had tears in their eyes, too.

Closeup of a bay horse's face

That was in the beginning of our program, and I have since learned that my reaction was a typical response to the stimulation of my central nervous system due to riding. Many tears of joy have rolled down cheeks of instructors and volunteers since then.

Not all disabilities are physical. As director of a therapeutic riding center, I formed a reading and riding program for learning disabled students. For different reasons, many LD students have never mastered reading skills. Most were experiencing some kind of disruptive behavior or low self-esteem that was reflected in their schoolwork.

Students would read about horses and horse care with a licensed volunteer teacher once a week in our tack room. The reward for finishing a lesson was riding. Because of the regular reading and writing assignments at the riding center, the students had improved academic skills. Some improved to the point of near honor-roll grades in school, and schools and parents reported a decrease in antisocial and disruptive behavior among LD students. It was amazing to see the power that the horse held for motivation. One boy improved his reading ability by four grade levels in just eight months. Another went from Ds to As, and the parents attributed the improvement to therapeutic riding and renewed self-esteem.

Further Reading
Help horses by volunteering at an equine charity
Criteria for therapeutic horses

Conditioning Horses with Hill Work

8

Conditioning a performance horse for work is an art and requires good judgment on the part of the rider. You need a fine-tuned feel for how much and how soon to increase a horse’s work to build up its strength and endurance.

A good way to build up power, wind and stamina is to climb hills. Climbing up a grade puts the horse’s own body weight to good advantage. The effort to climb makes the horse exert more and use its muscles harder. It also doesn’t hurt to ask a horse to climb a steep bank now and then; the effort will not only make the heart pump faster and the lungs work harder, but will also strengthen the muscles in the hindquarters and forearms.

Cantering a horse uphill

The gait used on hill work will also affect the horse’s development. Start off slowly, and have your horse already warmed up so as not to injure soft muscles. An out-of-shape muscle may pull or tear if subjected to sudden stress. As the horse becomes more fit and its muscles, tendons, ligaments and joints are able to take it, you can increase the speed.

Walking or trotting up hills is ideal for strengthening the lower leg, and the thigh and gaskin of the hind leg. A gallop uphill works the muscles in the rump. This should not be overdone, however, and should be attempted only after the horse is already quite fit.

When trying to improve a horse’s coordination and strength for handling uneven ground or inconsistent footing during strenuous performance, do some traveling across the sides of hills as well as up and down them. Side work can do a great deal to improve a horse’s coordination and balance, and is one of the best exercises you can give a horse in preparation for many types of athletic competition.

When going around the face of a steep hill, especially if the footing is a bit uneven or loose, the horse must develop more dexterity and coordination, picking up each leg and moving it around the other, perhaps having to scramble a bit if its feet are sliding. This improves agility and teaches the horse to balance itself to its best advantage. An agile horse is less apt to strain a leg or fall down when footing is unpredictable.

Hormones and Horse Behavior

I had the pleasure of touring some of the leading horse breeding and training facilities in the country while I was at a professional conference in Gainesville, Fla. But the most remarkable visit on my tour was to the home of Rugged Lark, the famous American Quarter Horse stallion, because he defied all of the legends about the unpredictability and dangerous behavior of stallions. The handsome bay displayed his docile and cooperative temperament in one unique way after another. I watched with the other spectators in stunned silence as Rugged Lark’s rider and trainer Lynn Palm guided him through freestyle dressage tests and over obstacles with just her lower-body aids and a garland of flowers around his neck. This stallion’s behavior struck me because it was so unusual to see.

A few months later, I encountered stallion behavior many people would consider more normal at the horse facility where I did my behavioral research. I was walking around the grounds, past the rows of stallions I thought I knew so well, when I was overcome by an excruciating pain. One moment all was right with the world, and the next moment I was sailing through the air, landing face first on the hard ground.

I looked back at the normally gentle, middle-aged stallion that had just attacked me, and observed his displays of aggression directed at the brand-new stallion in the adjacent paddock. It was clear that I had been the target of misdirected aggression between them.

What is the truth about stallion-like behavior? Is it those things we love best about horses—charisma, nobility, controlled fire—or is it something vicious and unpredictable that should be checked by gelding the horse?

What is the truth about stallion-like behavior? Is it docile and cooperative, or aggressive and dangerous like popular legend? Is it those things we love best about horses—charisma, nobility, controlled fire—or is it something vicious and unpredictable that should be checked by gelding the horse? Which gender makes the most easily trained riding horses, and which is the best for a performance horse?

Mares, Stallions, and Geldings

Although gender isn’t the only determining factor, a horse’s sex does play a significant role in behavior. Survival and reproduction are the two driving forces of all animals, including horses. Personal survival dictates that they must find food, water and protection from the elements above all else. When those basic needs are met, sexually intact animals (those who haven’t been gelded or spayed) treat the call of their reproductive hormones as the next priority. These hormones ensure the survival of the species and drive animals to send their hereditary attributes into the next generation, giving them a sort of immortality through their offspring.

Quarter Horse foal

Hormonal signals tell horses when to breed, and during those times it is a very important item on their agendas.

For mares, the breeding urge is seasonal and cyclical, but for stallions, the drive is ever-present. Libido in stallions is driven by the hormone testosterone, which is primarily produced by specialized cells of the testicles called leydig cells in response to chemical signals from the brain’s hypothalamus and pituitary gland. These chemical messengers are more active when the days are longer, increasing testosterone production to coincide with the time that mares are most fertile and receptive to breeding.

But even during the winter, when most mares are unwilling to breed, stallion behavior is still under the direct influence of testosterone, maintaining some degree of libido, sperm production and secondary sex characteristics. This maintains the drive in stallions to seek out prospective new mates and to check them for willingness to breed.

The Pros and Cons of Testosterone

This is what makes stallions such unique animals, giving them that brilliance, that something extra. In his book Lyons on Horses, John Lyons explains “…reproductive drive is behind many of the stallion’s behaviors … If we recognize this, we can deal with it in a logical manner. We’ll teach the stallion when and where to use this inner drive, when it’s okay to breed and when it’s not. But because of the stallion’s strong purpose in life, we’ll need to invest more time in his training. It may take us two hours to train the gelding, five hours to train the mare and 20 hours to train the stallion.”

This drive to breed makes stallions exceptional performance prospects for highly experienced riders. If the stallion’s strongly driven sexual behavior can be controlled through proper training and that energy channeled into athletic endeavors, they can indeed be the species’ most brilliant members. Consider, for example, the performances of 1996 Olympic dressage sensation Peron and 1984 Olympic gold and silver medal-winning international show jumper Abdullah.

On the other hand, stallion-like behavior can make “studs” difficult to train and potentially very dangerous, particularly in inexperienced hands. Even those stallions with unusually docile temperaments need to be handled properly by expert horse people at all times. Even “nice” stallions can be lethal to novice handlers. For this reason, unless a horse has a one-in-a-million combination of top-quality conformation, temperament and bloodlines, and the owner intends to use him for breeding — or sell him as a stud — most trainers would advise owners to geld horses intended for everyday riding or showing.

Brain Surgery

A horse’s behavior changes after gelding because of the quick and marked drop in blood testosterone levels. In horses, testosterone levels plummet to less than half their original levels very quickly after gelding. Without high testosterone in their blood, geldings are not hormonally driven and distracted by the urge to reproduce, so they are able to devote more attention to their training. This makes them generally easier to train than stallions, with more consistent behavioral tendencies. Gelding is also believed to alter a horse’s personality, making him less moody and more complacent.

On rare occasions, stallions that are gelded after puberty continue to display stallion-like behavior. This problem is most common in horses that formerly had careers as breeding stallions, and occurs because of what was “learned” through sexual experience. Other good reasons for early castration are that geldings can end up taller than stallions due to later closure of long bone growth plates, and that the chances of intestinal herniation as a post-surgical complication are fewer.

Mareish

Mare behavior tends to fall between that of geldings and that of stallions. Some horse handlers call the erratic behavior some mares exhibit during estrus “mare-ish” behavior. They are typically referring to the distracted attitude and edgy nature of certain mares that are more interested in finding mates and breeding during this time than they are in anything else.

Starting sometime around April and going approximately through September in the Northern hemisphere, the increased day length stimulates the mare to initiate 21- to 23-day reproductive cycles known as estrus cycles. During an estrus cycle, the typical mare will spend around five to seven days in heat, primarily under the influence of the hormone estrogen, and will ovulate near the end of that period of breeding receptivity. This can cause problems when it interferes with athletic performance or when it causes mares to become cranky and unpredictable, presenting dangers to their human handlers.

During the shorter days of the year, more mares are sexually inactive and unresponsive, behaving very similar to geldings. During the remaining 14 to 16 days of the cycle, they are primarily under the influence of the hormone progesterone and are not interested in breeding at all.

Mare and foal in the rain

For mares affected by behavioral problems during estrus, there are various products utilizing the reproductive hormone progesterone, which can be prescribed by veterinarians to keep them out of estrus. However, these may cause side effects in some mares.

Because removal of the ovaries or spaying in mares is a major surgical procedure, it is generally not done unless for medical reasons, such as for certain ovarian tumors. Most mare owners are either not aware of the behavioral changes during estrus or are not disturbed enough by them to invest in medical treatment. Of course, many mares are wonderful riding horses, brilliant show horses and powerful athletes that perform consistently despite the influences of estrus.

This column has highlighted the most obvious differences in behavioral tendencies of stallions, geldings and mares. The “best” gender depends on the ability, experience and preference of the rider, as well as the job required of the horse. Remember that generalizations about gender are simply guidelines, and that the temperament of the horse is ultimately the most important factor to consider. These guidelines can be used to help increase the likelihood of ending up with a compatible horse, but what matters most is finding one that can be trusted and that will be a pleasure to work with.

0FansLike
0SubscribersSubscribe
We use cookies to help personalize content, tailor and measure ads, and provide a safer experience. By navigating the site, you agree to the use of cookies to collect information. Read our Cookie Policy.
OK