Regardless of the evasion, horses who are difficult to bridle can make the process of tacking up an exercise in frustration. Brittany Malinoski of Brittany Lee Performance Horses in Lebanon, Tenn., offers this advice on how to correct these issues.

How Horses Become Evasive of the Bridle

Horses can develop these evasive tactics for any number of reasons.

“It could be that they never truly learned how to bridle correctly,” says Malinoski. “Or, it could be that they have had previous dental problems that caused them to lose trust in the bit or the hands of the rider. Finally, it could be the process of how the bridle is removed.”

Malinoski says that lesson horses, due to inexperienced handlers, are often prone to having their bridles removed too quickly.

“The students don’t slowly drop the bit down out of the horse’s mouth,” she says. “Instead, they may pull the bridle over the horse’s head and the bit gets caught on his teeth. The horse can panic or get scared, losing trust when the bridle is lowered.”

To help prevent issues with bridling from developing, Malinoski advises correctly training the process from the beginning, promptly addressing any dental troubles, and taking the time to make sure that the process of putting on and taking off the bridle is done slowly and correctly to avoid banging the horse in the mouth.

But prevention aside, what can you do if the problem with bridling is already well established?

Selecting a Location

Before beginning, Malinoski advises choosing an environment where you are setting up the training session for success. But the perfect location can vary, depending upon the method the horse uses to evade the bridle.

For example, she says that an arena can be ideal for a horse who actively backs away, while other issues, such as a horse who raises his head too high or one that refuses to accept the bit, may be better addressed in a more enclosed area, such as a grooming stall. As for equipment, Malinoski says that a simple rope halter and your horse’s bridle are all you need.

Steps to Lower the Head

For milder cases where the horse may simply be raising his head out of reach or refusing to take the bit, Malinoski begins the retraining process in a grooming stall with the horse wearing nothing more than a rope halter. She then introduces the idea to the horse to lower his head on command.

“This is accomplished by placing your hand on the horse’s head and applying pressure to his poll,” she says. She describes the process of holding the lead rope in your left hand and standing near and to the left of the horse’s head, then placing your right hand on the horse’s poll.

“When the horse lowers his head, you release the pressure,” says Malinoski. She elaborates that after getting the horse comfortable with his face and ears being touched, this process can also be useful when working with horses who are head or ear-shy. Malinoski does not introduce the bridle until the horse has become confirmed in this skill. Depending upon your horse, this may be in the first or later sessions.

Moving on to the Bridle

When the horse is ready, Malinoski explains that she repeats the process, this time using the bridle.

TIP: She says that while it is not necessary to have a certain bit for the retraining process, she advises having a bit that fits the horse properly. However, she says that practicing with a smaller bit, like a snaffle, can help regain trust.

After giving the command for the horse to lower his head from the direction of the poll, use your right hand to gently guide the bridle up into position while using your left hand to position the bit into place.

While she generally waits for the horse to open his mouth for the bit, if necessary, this can be encouraged by placing your thumb and middle finger on the bars on each side of the horse’s mouth and softly applying pressure.

TIP: Malinoski acknowledges that while some trainers use gimmicks such as applying products to the bit to make it taste good or holding a treat for the horse in the same hand as the bit, she is not a fan of these methods. This is mainly because these items may not be accessible when you are at a show or on a trail ride, and you can easily get into trouble if your horse won’t bridle without them.

With the bit in, the bridle can then be softly pulled up and into place. Once on, she lowers it back off, taking care not to bang the horse’s teeth with the bit in the process. She tries to do this a few times before ending the session.

Due to the extra space, Malinoski prefers the arena for working with horses who back away from the bridle. While she will still start the retraining process by teaching the command to lower the head when it comes time to put on the bridle, she then moves to the arena.

If the horse attempts to back away, she simply walks back with him until he stops and lowers his head.

“When that happens, I release the pressure,” she says.

Length of Retraining

Malinoski says that while the retraining process can take time, with patience and understanding, progress can happen in a relatively short span.

“If you work steadily at it, you should be able to make progress in about a week,” she says.

When the bridle goes on smoothly, release the pressure, and the horse has the reward of you taking it off. Malinoski explains that session lengths will vary by horse.

This article about bridling a horse that evades the bridle appeared in the May 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Bridle a Horse That Evades the Bridle appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The idea of riding without bits isn’t new, but the idea gains momentum as many horses are ridden for pleasure rather than high-performance shows. The bitless topic almost always provokes debate.

Here, we’ve gathered input from industry experts with differing views. What’s the same is that all want what’s best for the horse and rider. Read on to find out if bit or bitless riding fits best with your riding plans.

Always Bitless

Those who support full-time bitless riding have championed rule changes in many show associations. Robert Cook, FRCVS., Ph.D., has studied bits’ effects on horses and developed the popular Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle. Cook has lobbied show organizations to include bitless bridles as allowed tack.

If you want to show without tack regulations, online bitless shows may be an answer. Visit Nina Heller’s Bitless and Beautiful 501(c)(3) non-profit organization for show info and bit-free reasoning.

“The bit is a block between true mutual respect, trust, and harmony,” says Heller. “When you can do all the riding, training, and showing you like with the knowledge that your horse did it from friendship rather than coercion from things like the bit, spur, or whip, it is the most wonderful feeling—better than any prize or rosette.”

Pros and Cons

Legendary trainer and TTouch Founder Linda Tellington-Jones, Ph.D., began training horses without bits early in her career with the help of U.S. cavalry books written much earlier.

“I realized many, many years ago—in 1949—that I could start a young horse without a bit,” says Tellington-Jones. “I was the kid that would ride—and get bucked off—the new horses at the stable where I rode. One day an old man who saw me riding by his farm every day gave me a book written by an American cavalry officer. It showed how you could start young horses without bucking by ground-driving them. I found that instead of putting a bit in the horse’s mouth, it was better to drive off halter pressure. The horses understood much better.”

Tellington-Jones developed her own Lindell Bitless Bridle after looking at various hackamores and bosal options. The result is a side pull bridle with a round, stitched leather nosepiece and soft leather jowl and chin straps. In her new book, Training and Retraining Horses the Tellington Way: Starting Right or Starting Over with Enlightened Methods and Hands-On Techniques, Tellington-Jones says she uses the Lindell on young horses as well as those with sensitive mouths, and for any rider who has a tendency to balance on the reins.

Tellington-Jones poses the question: “Why would you ride a horse that was very difficult—even a runaway—without a bit?” In her experience, many horses who pulled on the bit acted much differently without a bit.

“It was amazing how horses that we thought were really difficult would turn around if they had the bit out of the mouth,” she says.

Should you ever ride with a bit?

“That depends what you want to do with the horse,” says Tellington-Jones. “I think most horses are much happier without the bit, but there are exceptions when it doesn’t work. If you have a high-headed, spooky horse who puts his head up, just using the bitless bridle isn’t going to give the horse enough information. I don’t think that bits are bad. If you don’t feel safe without a bit, keep yourself safe. If I’m riding on a safari in Africa and I don’t know the horse, I want a bit. Also, if you want to compete, you may need to have a bit.”

Tellington-Jones says to start bitless riding with caution.

“I recommend using the bit over the bitless bridle you’re going to use,” she advises. “Start in an enclosed area. If you need more control, pick up the reins attached to the bit.”

And an extra note of warning: practice your stopping cue before you take off your bit. Make sure you can stop without pulling.

“English or dressage riders, don’t close the leg to go into the bit when you want to stop,” she says. “There will be no bit to stop into.”

Riding Comes First

Karen Rohlf teaches dressage combined with natural horsemanship and biomechanics. Rohlf says her Dressage Naturally training program has seen an uptick when it comes to horse owners’ awareness of and interest in horse welfare. She says many riders are questioning traditional methods and looking for partnership-based horsemanship.

She reminds us that no rider should be judged for their tack choices.

“Be careful, because a rider who rides bitless is not necessarily kinder or more gentle,” says Rohlf. “Likewise, riders who do use bits are not necessarily harming their horses. I am not really interested in the no-metal movement and have often been turned off by very dogmatic views accompanied by unfair videos focusing only on the tools and not the riding. I am interested in educated riding and being able to make choices that work well for the horse. I don’t want people to have the wrong impression that to be kind to your horse all you have to do is take off the bit.”

Rohlf says she is not anti-bit and that she starts all of her horses without a bit, but she may use a bit as a tool of refinement. She adds that dressage movements can all be done without a bit, but it does have its place.

“I have had horses where a bit was a handicap because their aversion to it caused more training problems than it solved,” says Rohlf. “On the other hand, when used correctly on a horse that accepts it, a bit can offer a level of lightness, clarity, and refinement that may be missing without a bit, [allowing for] the most delicate aids and less confusion. In my experience, if you educate a horse and rider to be able to ride bitless, then when you do use a bit, if the horse accepts it, everything becomes even better.”

Rohlf’s first priority when starting a horse bitless is to connect with the mind and the feet of the horse and to use her hands and reins as little as possible.

“Mental, emotional, and physical self-carriage is the first goal,” she says. “After this stage, I look for healthy biomechanics by improving balance and alignment. The next stage is to educate the horse so he knows how to move freely within the contact of the reins and that he can trust my hands.”

When she does use a bit, Rohlf only uses smooth-metal bits and has a variety of snaffles, which her horses get to choose from.

“I love that I know how my horses feel with and without a bit, and that I am not restricted by rules of competition so that I can make choices for what is best for each individual,” she explains. “I tell my students to go to a tack shop and lay different snaffles on the fleshy part of their forearm, then squeeze it. You can easily tell the bits that pinch and the ones that feel smoother.”

Tack Free

Luke Gingerich competes in reining and ranch versatility and specializes in training horses at liberty. Gingerich’s bridleless freestyle reining routines have inspired others to achieve the same connection with their own horses.

“I think as more riders focus on developing the relationship and connection with their horses, they have been inspired by seeing what is possible when clear communication and the relationship between horse and rider is prioritized,” says Gingerich. “That’s different than only attempting to physically control the horse, whether through metal tools or otherwise.”

Riding without a bit is much different than riding a horse at liberty—though both can be considered “bitless.”

“Riding without a bit can still involve pressure and control on the horse’s face with a variety of tack, such as halters, side pulls, or bosals, just to name a few,” Gingerich adds. “In contrast, riding at liberty without any physical restraints on the horse’s face gives the horse choice in whether to connect and engage with the activity.”</

Working up to riding a horse at liberty takes time, and should usually be done with tack to start, according to Gingerich.

“It can take months and even years of consistent training with tack, before transitioning to riding completely tackless at a high level,” Gingerich says. “If riders don’t put the time into laying a solid foundation of liberty work before taking the tack off, there can be potentially dangerous consequences. If your horse doesn’t understand how you’re trying to communicate with him and how to use his body without relying on tack, taking the tack off will only confuse him, and can lead to dangerous accidents for both horse and rider.”

However, Gingerich did start his 3-year-old filly without tack.

“I spent about 10 months taking her through my liberty program in depth, focusing on mental and emotional relaxation and connection, body control, collection, and posture training,” he says. “This helped her develop a high level of mental and physical fitness and understanding that allowed me to actually start riding her completely at liberty, bareback and bridleless, from the very first ride.”

Traditional Sequence

Vaquero-style training starts with a hackamore before introducing the two rein (a bosal under a bitted bridle) and then the spade-bit bridle alone. Many cow horse competitors today start horses in a snaffle bit as the initial lesson tool.

World Champion working cow horse trainer Matt Koch is a master of riding in a hackamore but considers it part of a full training progression. He trusts his horses to respond to his cues well when riding without a bit.

“I ride a lot of horses in hackamores,” he says. “But for the general public—jeopardizing their well-being for it—that doesn’t make sense in my mind. If their horse gets scared, they don’t have a chance to stop him. It’s not worth the gamble of them getting hurt.”

Koch says it’s the rider’s skill and not the tack that affects the horse.

“The bits don’t hurt them,” he continues. “I can put just as much discipline in that hackamore as I can in a snaffle. You have to have your basic foundation put in. It’s clearer to [the horse] in a snaffle because you can be more direct. With a hackamore, you have to wait it out. If [the horse] decides he wants to run off in a hackamore, he can darn sure run off.”

Bit of Comfort

Bit maker Dale Myler says he’s heard more about the bitless movement within the last 10 years as more and more riders want to find what feels best for their horses.

Myler says a horse will tell you if he’s comfortable in the mouth by the way he carries his head or if he opens his mouth. Myler warns riders not to accept a bit just because it came with the horse or because your trainer always uses a certain type.

“Most problems with bitting a horse are caused by people not listening to and observing the horse,” says Myler. “Instead, we listen to other people, and no human knows how a horse feels in a certain bit. If the horse doesn’t like it, the bit will cause the horse to become evasive to the rider’s hands, much like a human putting their shoes on the wrong feet and trying to work all day. Pretty quickly, you can only think about how wrong the shoes are and nothing else. It’s the same with the horse. They lose a lot of focus if they are only looking for a release of bit pressure.”

Myler also cautions that it’s difficult to achieve precise shoulder control without the use of the bit.

“Nothing is written in stone; however, you won’t have precise shoulder control without a bit, and if you can’t control the shoulders, you can’t, as a rule, get a really precise movement.”

Is there such a thing as too much metal? Myler thinks so.

“In my opinion, there should never be more than one bit in a horse’s mouth at a time,” he says. “There is never any need for it. We are not making warhorses anymore.”

Whatever type of bitted or bitless riding you end up doing, make your decision based on what fits your style and makes your horse the most comfortable.

This article about riding bitless appeared in the September 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post To Bit or Not to Bit? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Tucker Ergobalance Standard Trail Glide Stirrups

The angled cone keeps the rider’s foot flat to decrease knee and ankle fatigue; also includes a thick rubber foot cushion. $77.95; www.tuckersaddlery.com

Veredus Carbon Gel Vento Boot Colors

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Total Saddle Fit Shoulder Relief Cinch

Intelligent design allows full range of shoulder motion, without interference from the saddle tree. Removable felt, fleece or neoprene liner options. $139.95-$179.90; www.totalsaddlefit.com

SmartPak Harwich Ergonomic Bridle

Anatomic contour monocrown is designed to reduce pressure around the poll and ears.Padded, contoured ergonomic noseband is made with equine comfort in mind. $169.95; www.smartpakequine.com

Spursuader

Cue your horse with a gentle nudge thanks to the broad contact surface area of the Spursuader. Created with sensitive horses in mind, the Spursuader is also a useful tool for amateur riders. Available in English and western styles. $45.99; www.tapestryequineproducts.com

Ecogold Secure XC Saddle Pad

Designed to keep your horse’s back cool and comfortable while holding your saddle securely in place. Breathable, high-density foam offers impact protection where it’s needed while ultra-thin flaps eliminate bulk and enhance rider communication. $170; www.ecogold.ca

Ecogold Calmatech High Performance Western Saddle Pad

Soft, dense medical-grade fleece reduces friction and pressure against the horse’s back while Ecogold’s nonslip system keeps the saddle securely in place. A layer of 3D air flow spacers improves ventilation while adjustable inserts provide impact protection $300; www.ecogold.ca

Total Saddle Fit Stability Stirrup Leather

Wide-body design is smooth and flat under your leg. Broader contact area on the saddle flap promotes a secure, stable position. Jump or dressage. $139.95; www.totalsaddlefit.com

Tapestry English Comfort Girth

Designed with the anatomy and physiology of the horse in mind, the Tapestry Comfort Girth features elastic placement that hugs the rib cage, allowing the horse to breathe easier. From $119.99; www.tapestryequineproducts.com

This article on products designed using equine ergonomics appeared in the February 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Products for Equine Ergonomics appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Split Reins

What they are: Although typically made from two strips of leather, split reins can also be made of braided cotton rope. Widths vary. Metcalf prefers a width of 3/4-inch for most riding and 5/8-inch with a snaffle bit.

Used for: The current trend sees split reins used in most western events, particularly western pleasure, horsemanship, reining and cutting.

Pros: Split reins allow you to make tiny adjustments to one rein or the other, direct your horse with one rein, apply a neck rein and/or a number of other cues using one or both hands with the option to hold the reins in several different positions. This is the most versatile type of reins.

Cons: Adjusting your rein length in one hand can be more challenging than other types of reins. It’s also easy to drop one while riding, which is a safety hazard. And Metcalf says sometimes riders sneak extra cues in that can hamper good training in the long run.

“You need to be aware of your rein length, and practice so you’re using them correctly,” she says.

Selection tip: Look for good-quality leather, a substantial thickness and no stretch. Make sure the attachments to the bit are in good working order. Metcalf avoids snaps or Chicago screws in favor of leather ties for safety.

“I always check the leather every time I use a pair of reins,” she says. “I’ve had snaps come open or screws come unscrewed, and leather can wear out. I replace those leathers if there’s any sign of wear.”

Romal Reins

What they are: Derived from the traditional Spanish vaquero methods, romal reins are comprised of two parts: the reins and the romal, which is one piece connected to the reins. The romal usually has a strip of leather on the end, called a popper. Today they’re usually made out of rawhide.

Used for: Particularly on the West Coast, many bridled reined cow horses (versus one in a hackamore) are ridden in competition using a romal. Some riders use a romal in trail and other all-around events, but the romal is useful for a variety of disciplines. Metcalf says they’re also helpful for training a horse.

“When I start putting my 3-year-old horses in the bridle, I’ll ride them in split reins,” she says. “But when I go to one hand, 98 percent of the time within a few weeks I’m using romal reins to polish up the steering.”

Pros: You’ll hold the reins in one hand and the tail in the other. When held correctly, it’s easier to keep your reins even and at the correct length versus split reins. They are helpful for keeping your horse upright and between your reins. Romal reins are also a great way to find out how trained your horse is to rein cues, says Metcalf.

“You can’t slip a finger or hand in the reins to steer with romal reins like you can with split reins,” she says.

Cons: Holding and using a romal incorrectly can get points deducted from your score in the show pen. Check your association’s rule book for specifics. They’re not to be used with a bit without a shank, like an O-ring snaffle.

Selection tip: Metcalf says a good rawhide set of romal reins is not cheap. Inexpensive reins may wear out quickly. Look for quality materials and workmanship.

Roping Reins

What they are: Roping reins are attached to the bit in a loop around the horse’s neck and are made from a single length of leather, braided nylon or cotton. There is usually a snap on one end.

Used for: These western reins are used for roping and speed events, such as barrel racing.

Pros: Metcalf says roping reins are easy to manage for a beginner or a rider using one hand-like a roper-or if the rider needs to grab the saddle horn with the other hand.

Cons: If your reins are too short, you’ll be limited on the maneuvers you can ask of your horse. They are considered illegal equipment in some classes, like western pleasure, so check your association rule book before using them.

Selection tip: Make sure that your reins are the right length for you, the snaps are in good working order and the rein material is good quality.

Mecate Reins

What they are: Mecate reins are typically used with a bosal, also known as a hackamore. Made of horse mane or tail hair, mohair, or nylon in several thickness options, mecate reins include one length of rope attached to the bosal to make a loop around the horse’s neck, with the remainder used as a lead rope that is tied around the saddle horn. The bosal and mecate are another derivative of Spanish vaquero training.

Used for: Horses are usually outfitted with a bosal and mecate during the early days of training; they can be shown in this tack as long as they’re under the designated age limit. Check your rule book for specifics. They’re suitable for most events except horsemanship and speed events. You’ll usually ride with a rein in each hand.

Pros: Metcalf says that a bosal can be a helpful tool in the course of training a horse, and the mecate reins are designed to facilitate that training. They can deliver subtle cues thanks to the rough texture and weight of the rein.

Cons: If your horse doesn’t know how to work in a bosal, or you’re inexperienced with this piece of equipment, you may not be able to properly cue and control your horse.

Selection tip: Metcalf prefers mane hair instead of tail hair, which tends to be too stiff, or mohair, which tends to be too smooth. She recommends looking for a quality bosal and mecate set over one that is inexpensive.

“Mane hair won’t tear your hands up,” Metcalf says. “I feel like my horses respect a mane hair hackamore rein more than mohair.”

This article on western reins originally appeared in the January 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Take the Reins: The Ins and Outs of 4 Common Types of Western Reins appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.