Many of us depend on trainers or friends to haul our horses to competitions, trailheads, or emergency veterinary appointments. That’s a sufficient strategy for some, but there’s a particular sort of freedom that comes from taking the leap and selecting a horse trailer of your own, especially if an emergency arises and a friend’s horse trailer is not available.

With an overwhelming array of options on the market, you won’t be starved for choice. Most trailer owners are glad to share their preferences, but it’s essential to choose the rig that’s right for you and your horse. Download our trailer-buying guide to help you navigate the market as you begin selecting a horse trailer.

Selecting Horse Trailer Basics

As you start your search, a couple of seemingly simple factors—both related to size—will direct the process of choosing a horse trailer

Interior Size: The first thing to consider when selecting a horse trailer is the size you need for your horse(s) to be safe and comfortable. A trailer that’s too tight can not only lead to injury, but can be a scary space to enter for nervous horses.

The average horse trailer is built for the average-sized horse, with internal dimensions ranging from 7 to 8 feet in height and 6 to 8 feet in width. Most Quarter Horses would fit just fine in the smaller models, but if you have 16-plus hand Thoroughbreds, you might want something taller, and if you ride Warmbloods, the stalls should accommodate wider bodies, as well.

If you’re towing Miniature Horses or draft horses, you may need a much more specialized horse trailer. According to the University of Maryland Extension, a good rule of thumb is that the trailer should be a minimum of 10 inches taller than your horse’s resting head height and allow 3 inches or more on each side.

Number of Horses: Next, you’ll want to ask yourself how many horses you plan to haul after selecting a horse trailer. Although single-horse trailers are popular in Europe, they are almost non-existent in the U.S. If, like most single-horse owners, you want the option of carpooling with friends or bringing extra hay for overnight trips, a standard two-horse size will do the trick and be easy to find.

If you own two or more horses, you may want a three-horse (or larger) with more tack space. Keep in mind that bigger trailers will often require a bigger (and more expensive) truck.

Selecting Horse Trailer Details

With size figured out, it’s time to start wading through the specifics. Factors such as hitch type, body type, and load style are all variable, and often dependent on individual preferences for both horse and human.

Hitch: Most horse trailers connect to your vehicle via either a hitch on the vehicle frame (a bumper pull) or a hitch in the bed of a pickup truck (gooseneck). If you decided to choose a trailer that will haul three or more horses, you may not have a choice, as most larger trailers are all goosenecks. If you’ve opted for a two-horse trailer, you’ll have more bumper pull options.

Bumper pulls tend to be smaller, more affordable, and can be hauled safely by smaller trucks or full-sized SUVs. They’re also more versatile if you already carry a truck camper or plan to use the bed of your pickup even when hauling your horse. Goosenecks, on the other hand, are larger and heavier, but also more stable and, despite their size, often easier to drive.

Stock vs. Enclosed Trailer: It’s important to consider various styles when selecting a horse trailer. Preference for stock versus horse-specific trailers is often dictated by familiarity, but also by where and how you’ll use the trailer. Livestock trailers tend to be basic, with open-slatted sides where windows would be on a horse trailer, and few bells and whistles. If you think you may need the flexibility of hauling a variety of animals, this will be the best option by default. But, if you only plan to haul horses, there’s more to consider.

Both stock and horse trailers can have good airflow—check for roof venting and windows that open in the latter. But, because their sides are partially open and insulation tends to be limited to non-existent, it is more difficult to regulate overall temperature in stock trailers. Furthermore, the screenless open slats increase the risk of road debris hitting your horse.

Load Position: Slant load or straight load? Everybody seems to have an opinion when it comes to load position, but there is little safety data to point to one over the other. Rather, as with most trailer features, this will come down to your and your horse’s needs.

Slant-loads make better use of the floor space, allowing you to haul more animals on a shorter wheelbase. This means the horse trailer can be easier to tow. They also tend to appear open, which is friendlier to anxious minds, and many horses are able to turn around and walk out, as opposed to backing out of a straight-load setup.

Since horses ride side-by-side in straight-load horse trailers, individual animals are easy to access and unload. They also let the horses balance on their front and rear legs during travel, which can be beneficial over long hauls.

Whichever load style you choose, dividers are useful for keeping multiple horses separate. If you only plan to haul one animal, you may want to remove dividers so they can ride in a box stall. Given a choice, most horses will turn around and ride facing backward, which is likely due to easier balancing in this position.

Steel vs. Aluminum: Most horse trailers are made of either steel or aluminum. Each material comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. Steel trailers, while strong, affordable, and easy to repair, are often heavy and more prone to rust. Aluminum trailers, on the other hand, are far lighter and can accommodate a heavier load. Although they don’t usually rust, aluminum trailers can corrode.

Ramp or Step-Up: The decision to get a ramp or step-up trailer is once again a personal one when choosing a horse trailer. Ramps can reduce the likelihood that a horse skins a leg while loading or unloading—hence their popularity among performance horses—but not all animals are comfortable walking on them.

Some horses dislike stepping up into or out of the horse trailer, especially if they are unloading backward. If you have a strong preference, most horses can learn to be comfortable with both; but, if you’re on the fence, let your horse’s preference be your guide.

Bonuses

Once you’ve decided on the type of horse trailer you want, it’s time to think about the range of features that can add comfort and convenience.

Tack Room: First, ask yourself whether you want a tack room and, if so, how you will use it. Will it be your primary storage area, even at home, or will you only use it on the road?

Tack rooms come in a variety of configurations and sizes; some even include a built-in water tank. If your chosen trailer has a rear tack room (fairly common in slant trailers), make sure it swings out to offer plenty of room for your horse to load and unload.

Lighting: In addition to legally required brake lights, tail lights, turn signals, and running lights, consider whether you need internal lighting for nighttime hauling and external lights, which are useful for tacking up or loading and unloading in the dark.

Sleeping Area: Whether you’re looking to save money on hotel stays at competitions or want a setup-free alternative at campgrounds, a horse trailer with sleeping quarters can be a worthwhile investment. And they are available in a variety of versions, from simple spaces for a cot and sleeping bag to a camper with all the essentials plus luxuries for longer stays.

Used or New?

A pre-owned horse trailer can be a great purchase for first-timers who don’t quite know what they’re looking for. But, if you’re buying used, it’s essential to check that the brakes, lights, flooring, hitch, and frame are all in good condition.

Your best bet is to take it for a “vet check” with a professional trailer mechanic.

Horsepower

Even the best horse trailer is no good without a vehicle to haul it. If you already have a truck, use this as your starting point for trailer shopping, or make sure to verify that it has the towing capacity to safely pull your trailer, horses, and gear.

If you don’t have a vehicle yet, keep in mind that bigger horse trailers will require a burlier vehicle. While some small trailers can be pulled by a full-sized SUV, most will require a truck.

This article about selecting a horse trailer appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Whether for competition or pleasure, often our horse adventures take us far from home for several days. Hotels can really add up, and horse trailer living quarters are expensive. Inventive equestrians have solved this problem by converting their horse trailer tack rooms into camping spaces.

There are infinite possibilities when it comes to creating a sleeping area. Here are some modified trailers to help inspire your own creativity.

Modern Aluminum Frame Horse Trailer

Vonda Davison says she did a lot of researching and planning before converting her 2013 Featherlite Perfect Fit two-horse straight-load.

“It’s important to know the best insulation to use and also what type of screws you’ll need when drilling into aluminum or steel,” she says. “For instance, you do not use steel screws when screwing into aluminum.”

Since her horse trailer had saddle racks under the feeding areas, she moved one to the other side to make room for a bed in her living quarters. She added insulation, furred it out, and finished with paneling and trim. “Furring out” refers to expanding a wall’s construction, either by depth or width, usually by using metal or wood to make a level surface. Since most trailers have framing on the inside so you don’t have a smooth wall, the “furring” would make the wall flush with the framing so it’s smooth, like the wall of a house.

She made a cabinet to fit the front of the trailer and installed a USB-charged faucet with a 5-gallon water container and a sink that drains into a bucket. Her bed is made of two-by-fours with foam cushioning. For lighting, she uses a battery-charged lamp.

“The hardest part was drilling the furring strips to the aluminum ribs,” she says. “I had to pre-drill all the holes.”

Super Storage in DIY Living Quarters

Lisa Parkhurst had 2 feet of extra length added to the dressing room of her 2011 Double D Safetack bumper pull when she had it built because she knew she wanted to fit a bed in it.

“I knew I was going to camp in the trailer, so I wanted the dressing room big enough for a cot,” she says.

She also had them add a walk-through door to connect the stalls to the sleeping area, a vent with a 12-volt fan, and a 12-volt battery wired to trickle charge from her truck when towing.

Finally, she had a 25-gallon water tank and an awning installed in her DIY horse trailer living quarters. Even then, she ended up making some changes.

“It was very cramped,” she says. “Eventually, I put a bed in the front part of the dressing room over the spare tire and battery, high enough that I could take advantage of the windows in the nose of my trailer.”

Due to weight, she couldn’t add cabinets, but found another way to have storage.

“My trailer is made from Z composite, which means it’s not as heavy as a steel trailer, but it is magnetic,” Parkhurst says. “I took full advantage of that and put in magnetic baskets on the wall for storage. I glued a shoe holder to the pass-through door, and then under the bed, I have two aluminum wire shelves.”

Under the bed, she ran a heavy-duty extension cord through the floor, so she can plug in if hook-ups are available. Parkhurst used foam puzzle mats for her flooring, because they were easy to install herself.

For insulation, she used leftover bubble insulation from her barn.

“I covered the part around the bed with soundproofing foam and fabric,” she says. “I knew I would be bumping into it as I slept, and it really does cut down on noise from other campers. On the rest, I used a peel-and-stick wallpaper, and either covered the wall directly [over the insulation] or covered foam craft boards cut to fit.

“New in the past year was adding a 100-watt solar panel and solar generator,” she adds. “This has allowed me to use a microwave, coffee pot, and 12-volt cooler, and really covers all of my power needs except for electric heat and air conditioning.”

Creative Sleep Space in Horse Trailer Living Quarters

Joanie Carter purchased a 1997 Midsouth two-horse trailer with enough room for a bed in the dressing room, knowing she would convert to add some living quarters. But just putting a bed in proved to be more work than she thought.

“There have been some ups and some downs,” she says. “I started with a fold-out foam sofa as my bed on the floor. That was too low. I used a coffee table to elevate the bed. That was too hard and not long enough to stretch out. I finally realized that I could remove the saddle rack under the manger and place my bed along the side. Now I can fully stretch out by sticking my feet under the manger.

“I then added shelves to store the three-in-one breakfast center, microwave and utensils,” she continues. “I added a small cabinet to house the lights and USB fans.”

She also added a vent and, with the help of her son, a window for cross-ventilation. She uses a solar generator and two 100-watt solar panels for power.

There was no extra tack space, so she made a rack out of PVC pipe and put it in the rear of her trailer, taking up one of the two stalls. She also put the spare tire, chairs and table in this area, plus a solid divider. On the trailer door, she added a caddy to hold grooming supplies.

RV Living

Kelly Dickson had lots of space for her conversion, since her 2004 Featherlite two-horse slant load is the same size as a three-horse trailer, but instead of a third stall, she has an enlarged dressing room and a rear tack. Because of this, she was able to create a mini-living quarters area that looks just like a small RV.

She had a pass-through door installed, then had the entire area insulated with closed-cell rigid foam and sealed with HVAC tape. Furring strips were used to prevent condensation.

She had 30-amp electric installed for a camping hookup, interior lights and electrical outlets. She has a bed at the nose of the trailer with storage above and below it. She has a closet, microwave, counter, sink, collapsible table, electric heater and mini fridge.

“The most difficult decision in my conversion was where to anchor the spare tire,” she says. She ended up bolting it to the wall of the rear tack, which she says makes it easily accessible.

New Life in an Older Trailer

Bridget Hayes converted a 1984 WW two-horse straight-load trailer into an adorable camping set up. She cut an opening at each manger and installed cabinet doors. She used part of an old desk to make a table for her microwave.

A portable air conditioner is vented out into the horse compartment through a hole in the back wall with a drain tube in the floor. She built cabinets along the front with a bar sink and a fridge.

Hayes uses a cot for a bed, with her portable toilet underneath. She plans on replacing the cot with a folding shelf so she can lift up her bed and store items underneath.

“My biggest issue was getting rid of the rust and maintaining the metal,” she says.

Since her trailer didn’t have a rear tack, she uses a portable saddle rack on wheels that sits in the living space while traveling. The rack is then moved to the horse compartment when camping.

With endless ideas, you are sure to find something that will work in your trailer, regardless of its age or size.

This article on how to create DIY living quarters in your horse trailer appeared in the June 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Convert Your Bumper Pull Horse Trailer Tack Room into DIY Living Quarters appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.