Castle Leslie

With just a week available, I had to make the most out of every day. After spending a day recovering from jetlag and catching up with friends, it was off to Castle Leslie in County Monaghan. Located on the border of Northern Ireland, this was a perfect couple of days of horse-themed luxury.

I rented a car for the week, and while I adjusted pretty quickly to driving on the left-hand side of the road and shifting gears with my left hand, train service is available for anyone who doesn’t want the added stress of navigating the country roads by car.

The castle has an illustrious family history, and offers several options for accommodations. If you really want to make a splash, you can stay in the castle proper, or if you’d prefer more peace and quiet, the Old Stable Mews are located far out back on the property.

Most people interested in riding will be content to stay in The Lodge, which is connected to the stables and features the upscale Snaffles restaurant, drinks at Connor’s Pub, and a spa for relaxing after time in the saddle.

I arranged the trip to Castle Leslie through Unicorn Trails Horse Riding Holidays Worldwide, and the reservation process was easy and well managed. Every detail of the trip was smoothly planned in advance, and checking in at The Lodge was an easy process. The accommodations were well equipped and exceedingly comfortable. It was a huge highlight that the small balcony overlooked the stable yard.

My kids were heading back to school that week, but airfare from New Jersey to Ireland drops significantly in September: my flight was about $400, compared to over $1,000 in August.

My non-horsey husband agreed to deal with the back-to-school week so I could enjoy an adventure with my old friend, George Barry, who I’ve known since we were teenagers, when he and his sister and my brother competed in the International Tetrathlon exchange through Pony Club back in the late 1990s.

We’d traveled together before, and he’s a competent rider, and since riding is a high-risk sport—and so is driving a car in Ireland—I felt a little safer traveling with a companion.

Cross-Country Jumping

After settling in, we stretched our legs with a wander around the grounds and the castle. That evening we enjoyed an elegant six-course dinner at Snaffles. The food was delicious, featuring mainly locally sourced, fresh ingredients, and the service was impeccable. After dinner, we wandered out the door to the stables and admired the facilities and horses before retiring for the evening.

The full Irish breakfast the next morning was equally as impressive as dinner, if not more so. There was also an impressive array of fresh fruit, pastries and other breakfast items that left me wishing my appetite was larger. But with our horses waiting, I reined in my appetite. After changing into boots and breeches, we headed out to the stables.

The horses were fit and well cared for, and the borrowed helmets and cross-country vests were in good condition and up to the latest safety standards. I rode a gorgeous big gray mare named Blueberry, while George was on a stout gelding named Arnie. I’m 5’11”, and Blueberry took up my leg nicely. There were horses of all shapes and sizes, for riders of all shapes, sizes and levels of experience. A questionnaire in advance made sure that we met our ideal match.

Our instructor, Steven Carty, performed a brief assessment before we set off across the countryside. Steven was lovely and we chatted about the horses, the lifestyle working at the stables, and the history of the estate. If we’d had another night, I would have enjoyed sitting down with him for a pint at Connor’s Pub.

The jumps were on the small side, but since we were both out of practice, it was perfect. The cross-country course is extensive, but since we only had one day, we kept things simple, and the horses clearly knew the drill.

Next, we made our way to the corner of the lake, where we could jump in and out from a small bank or down a series of steps. Splashing through the lake with the castle in the background felt like a scene from a fairytale.

A walk in the woods that afternoon left me wishing we had more time to explore the estate. It was a peaceful way to wrap up our short visit, as the grounds and gardens are just as beautiful as the buildings.

The Wild Atlantic Way

I would have happily spent a week at the castle living the life of luxury, but our next stop would bring plenty of fun adventures. (In fact, if I were to do the trip again, I’d arrange to head to the castle after the beach).

A couple hours’ drive west to County Mayo brought us to the small coastal town of Westport, a scenic village set on the calm, clear waters of Clew Bay. The bay is home to a number of tiny islands—“one for every day of the year”—and set in the shadow of Croagh Patrick, the mountain where Saint Patrick is said to have driven the snakes from Ireland.

This segment of the trip was organized by Ireland Equestrian Tours and operated by Go Trekking Ireland. Laura Lamb of Ireland Equestrian Tours sent a number of brochures over with information about the various options, and the Wild Atlantic Way seemed a good fit for a bit of adventure and beach riding after our cross-country schooling up in County Monaghan.

We stayed at George’s uncle John’s house on the way, and got an early start to Westport so that we could be out riding early, before the tide came in. We met the proprietor of the Westport Woods Hotel, Michael Lennon, who took us to his stables to select our horses for a beach ride. I chose a tall, athletic and solidly built chestnut hunter type named Coady, while George rode a gray named Naymar.

Beach Ride to Remember

We followed the horsebox to a spot where we unloaded and mounted up. Four of us set off across the bay. Our guide, Joanne Mason, was on a smaller cob who was fairly submerged in some of the deeper water crossings, so I was glad to be on a long-legged sport horse!

Eventually we ended up on Bertra Strand, where we had a good gallop on the beach and then rode out on a grassy headland overlooking a couple of large islands. After clattering over a stony section, we came to another beach where we rode out in the waves, before crossing back over to Bertra Strand for another good gallop in the shadow of Croagh Patrick. By the time we wrapped up our antics, the tide had come in, so we picked our way around the bay and back to the horsebox.

After riding, we stopped at a local pub for a truly Irish experience: drinking a pint in front of a peat fire. While harvesting peat is banned in much of the country, some locals are still allowed to harvest a limited amount using ancient methods, and the particular smoky atmosphere in the pub evoked a bygone era.

At Michael’s suggestion, we spent the afternoon at Ballinrobe Races, about 45 minutes south. It was the final meet of the season and there was a good crowd out for the racing. This was a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry and enjoy the excitement of placing a few small bets. I braved the bookies and bet a couple of Euros on two winning horses, bringing home around 40 Euros and a slightly inflated sense of my ability to judge a winning horse.

That evening, we settled on the Westway Pub in downtown Westport for a bite to eat. The food was fresh and simple and the atmosphere smart but casual. I’d hoped to stop in to listen to the traditional music at another pub up the street, but with another day of riding planned, opted for an early bedtime instead.

Surfing Beach

The next morning the horses were hauled to Carrownisky Strand, a popular surfing beach a half-hour or so down the road. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and a little surreal unloading the horses in a sandy parking area populated mainly by surfers and families taking their kids to the beach for the day.

We made a bit of a spectacle, galloping on the wide, sandy beach, which is the home to an annual horse race. The horses were eager to go and we were all too happy to oblige, with sea spray splashing in our grinning faces.

To cool the horses out, we hacked to the nearby Bunlahinch Clapper Footbridge, the largest complete clapper bridge in Ireland, at 50 meters long. Its 37 arches are constructed in a primitive style, each made of flat limestone slabs, and likely dates to the 1840s.

On the way back, we walked past cow pastures and bogs where sheep were grazing on the verdant grass, later taking another lively canter down the beach. The horses were very fit and had plenty in the tank to give another good run.

Mountain Ride

The original plan was to do the mountain ride the following day, but with stormy weather in the forecast, I opted to join a group going out that afternoon. After a short rest at the hotel, I headed back to the stables with Michael and an American woman and her daughter who had just arrived on holiday. (George had taken an unplanned dismount into the saltwater on our beach ride and wasn’t keen to go on a three-hour ride in soaking wet clothing, so he stayed behind and had a stroll around the town).

I was on Coady once again, and we rode directly from the stables and enjoyed a long, leisurely hack to the base of the mountain. Other than an easy canter up a long gravel track, this ride maintained a leisurely pace and was a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, the mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay, following narrow lanes winding over hills and through little valleys past cottages and farms.

That evening, we walked from the hotel to the Quay for dinner at the Towers Pub, a little more upscale than the previous evening’s location. Following Joanne’s recommendation, we followed dinner with pink gin cocktails garnished with strawberries at the Coast Hotel across the street. It was charming and refreshing and a nice accompaniment to the live music featured that evening.

All too soon, it was time to head to the airport, return the trusty rental car and fly home.

◆ Amber’s Packing Tips and List for an Irish Riding Holiday

This article about a horseback riding holiday in Ireland appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Irish weather is fickle, and you can never go wrong with layers. High performance fabric and wool will keep you warm and dry, and a lightweight, breathable raincoat is a must.

To save space in my already heavy suitcase, I didn’t bring a helmet. It worked out fine, but if you really want to protect your head, it might be worth leaving something else home.

A pair of breeches in technical fabric and a couple of sun shirts were my smartest packing move. They dried quickly and were good for several rides

I opted for paddock boots and half chaps instead of tall boots; they take up less room in a suitcase and paddock boots paired with jeans look smart for an outing like the races or even dinner out.

Bring along light sweater. In addition to being warm, it looks nice and can be dressed up or down, paired with the aforementioned jeans and paddock boots.

I took a nice dress and sandals for dinner at the castle. This was the only time I got really dressed up, and I’m glad I did, because photos with the castle just looked so much better with a classy outfit.

The pool at the West Woods hotel is a proper lap pool, and you’ll need a swim cap (required) and goggles.

After long hours in the saddle, George developed a couple of painful rubs on his calves. Luckily I’d packed a couple of Telfa dressings for such occasions and that got him back in the saddle and pain-free.

Advil (enough said).

Finally, don’t overpack. If you’re cold, buy touristy sweatshirt or a nice hand-knit wool sweater as a souvenir. There are lots of shops selling souvenirs and handmade traditional goods, so leave a little extra space in your suitcase.

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If you pack your bags for a riding holiday in Ireland, throw in a pair of sensible walking shoes for a day trip to the Irish National Stud & Gardens in County Kildare. Stunning stallions, living legends, and the Irish Racehorse Experience await you.

For under 20 Euros per person, last summer four riding friends and I enjoyed the grounds of a working breeding farm and Japanese gardens, and also experienced racehorse ownership in a simulation in which we bought, trained and “rode” our charges to the finish line.

“There are two big things people visit specifically for: the horse—not one particular horse—but to get up close and personal with them, and the Japanese gardens,” says Ellen Mitchell of the Irish National Stud. She explains that the gardens are over 100 years old, and the farm is rich in heritage and horticultural history.

Mares, Foals and Living Legends

“You could be looking at a future [Epsom] Derby or Grand National winner, or a very expensive lawn mower,” said Gavin, our tour guide, as we gazed at a verdant pasture of mares and adorable foals.

In the spring of 2022, an incredible 319 foals were born at the Irish National Stud. Horse owners trailer in their mares to foal at the maternity hospital, and every year 30 equine veterinary students from around the globe are there to assist the deliveries. A colostrum bank and nursery paddocks ensure all foals are nurtured attentively during their early days.

Visitors can get up close and personal with retired hurdlers (steeplechase racehorses) in the Living Legends pasture. We leaned along the fence watching Beef and Salmon, a fan favorite, whose name was reportedly inspired by a wedding menu choice. Then there was Faugheen, nicknamed “The Machine,” nibbling tender sprigs of green. Beef and Salmon won close to 1 million Euros during his career, while Faugheen was over the million mark.

The small herd captured my attention because I assumed they were all stallions turned out together. But I learned that male hurdlers are always geldings, since jump races are longer—up to 4 miles—and geldings can sustain focus for a longer timeframe than a stallion.

Irish National Stud Stallions

The premier stallion standing at the Irish National Stud is a 26-year-old dark bay Thoroughbred named Invincible Spirit. He’s sired more than 20 Group 1 winners, the highest level of Irish racing.

A statue carved out of an 18-ton block of limestone commemorates him. His sire, Green Desert, covered mares until age 28, and his grandsire, Danzig, until age 27. Needless to say, longevity runs in the family.

Seven other majestic stallions, each with his own logo and stall with skylights, call the Irish National Stud home. The original farm owner believed in astrology, recording each foal’s birth in conjunction with the night sky, determining whether to keep or sell the horses according to the stars.

Irish Racehorse Experience

The Irish Racehorse Experience is an attraction that recently won a prestigious Thea award, given out by the Themed Entertainment Association. We stepped into a white modern farmhouse building to experience the virtual thrill of owning a racehorse, and were each given headsets and a device about the size of an iPad.

An introductory film on a life-size, horse-shaped screen greeted us first, then we headed to an auction simulation and “bought” our own Irish racehorses. I fell for a gray filly named Cool Colonnade. After the auction, we selected the best training programs for our Thoroughbreds. We had to be budget-conscious, as we were allotted only a certain amount of pretend currency for training.

The device screen listed the types of programs we could get, each one with a different fee. For example, it was 200 for beach gallops to have the “sea wind and soft sand put a spring in the step.” For another 200, I opted for treadmill training (“your horse needs to stay the distance”). I paid 150 for pampering, because I would enjoy that myself, so why not splurge on my pretend horse?

Following the rigorous training, we designed our own jockey silks. Mine were lime and emerald green with a Charlie Brown V-shaped pattern on the torso. I had more fun designing my racing silks than was necessary for a fake race.

The culmination of our racehorse ownership at the Irish National Stud was a race. We mounted simulators and faced a screen showing the racetrack. My gray filly came in dead last. At least I had fun riding in my first and last horse race!

Before we wrapped up our day, we ambled through the vibrant Japanese gardens and took a few selfies. We left with snacks, dozens of photos, and fun-filled memories.

If travel plans lead you to Ireland, add a day to your itinerary, jaunt off to Kildare and tour the Irish National Stud & Gardens. It’s located just 45 minutes from Dublin and two hours from Waterford, Cork and Galway.

Visit irishnationalstud.ie to learn more about a visit to the Irish National Stud & Gardens.

This article about the Irish National Stud & Gardens appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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The crisp clip-clop of steel horseshoes striking stone roads competed with the sound of surf crashing to shore as our group of riders trotted toward Cleggan Beach in Ireland. The Connemara/Irish Cob under me perked up at the smell of the salty air and the sound of the waves. A thrilling beach gallop on my trusty horse in the Emerald Isle was mere moments away.

On the western edge of Ireland, in County Galway, the small seaside town of Cleggan is home to a ferry, fishermen, and the Cleggan Beach Riding Centre. The Centre offers treks across the countryside or to two different beaches, all on traditional Irish mounts, including Irish Cobs and Connemara ponies. It was the perfect place for an equine-savvy tourist to make a dream come true and ride on the Emerald Isle.

Ireland is a horse lover’s paradise, whether you’re an expert in an English saddle or a novice with little riding know-how. With a little research, a reputable stable to book with and a sense of adventure, you can experience the magical ride of your dreams.

A Perfect Plan for an Emerald Isle Horse Vacation

Tourism is a thriving industry in Ireland, and many cities offer a tourism agency that can assist in booking adventures like horseback riding. The horse trekking companies that work with official Irish tourism offices are often accredited through the Association of Irish Riding Establishments (AIRE), and insured, making them a good choice for an adventure.

Though my Irish adventure began in Dublin, I was positive that I wanted to ride on the beach aboard an Irish horse. Over my 20-plus years of horseback experience, which includes jumping, youth rodeo events, western pleasure and working cow horse, I had not had many opportunities for the quintessential beach ride. Sand in your face, thundering hooves and surf pounding as you gallop on beach.

With this vision in mind, my friend Anna Morrison and I waited to book a horse vacation in Ireland until we reached the western edge of our travels.

The second-to-last morning of the trip, we walked into the Tourism Ireland office in Clifden. There were several stables that offered rides: rides near old castles, rides in the country and rides along the coast. However, for us the choice was easy. The Cleggan Beach Riding Centre offered a beautiful beach gallop.

After a quick call to schedule our ride, we were set. It was an afternoon riding appointment. All day I couldn’t wait to get to the stables, and finally the time arrived.

Well-Matched Mounts

I felt like a kid again, trying to listen to the pre-ride instructions, but all the while straining to catch a glimpse of the horses. I hoped to meet the horse of my Irish dreams—something adorable, with feathered feet and a flowing mane.

First, though, the Cleggan instructors fit each rider in our group with a helmet and ensured that our boots safely fit into and would release from a stirrup. Anna and I both had extensive experience riding stock horses in Texas, and our western-style cowboy boots made for good-natured comments about our “cowboy style.”

Up until this point, it never crossed my mind that we would be sitting in English saddles.

“How long has it been since you rode English? It’s been at least a decade for me,” Anna said. “Let’s hope that muscle memory kicks in!”

One by one, the horses were led out and paired with riders based on ability. A father that had never ridden was paired with a large black-and-white piebald that looked like he was asleep on his feet—a nice match. A small roan pony was introduced to a little girl; the child was instantly smitten. As each rider mounted and was settled safely in the saddle with stirrups adjusted, my anxiety grew.

“What if I don’t find my balance in the English saddle? What if they give me a troublesome mount because I said I was experienced?” The worries began to pile up in my head. Soon Oscar was led toward me.

A stout, brown gelding with an unruly mane, thick body, soft brown eyes and feathery feet stood in front of me, and he was most definitely assessing me as I gave him the once-over. Oscar was precious!

Solidly mounted on my 8-year-old Connemara-Cob cross, I looked over to find Anna beaming at me from her seat on Chip, a 12-year-old gray Connemara. We were ready.

Before embarking on our beach trek, the instructors had each rider take a practice lap at the trot. Those tackling a beach canter—just me and Anna—were required to take one practice lap to be sure we could handle our horses. At last we set out, riding along the main road in to Cleggan before turning south of town onto a single-lane road.

My smile beamed with my delight as we walked past stones piled in what was once a house, trotted down lanes bordered by vividly red-flowered plants, and greeted the cattle and horses that were attracted to the fences by our presence. Yet nothing prepared me for seeing the beach.

Making Magic

The blacktop road gave way to white as the horses crested the hill, their hooves sinking in the sand. For some reason, I did not imagine Irish beaches to have sand to rival that of the Caribbean. But here we were, near the North Atlantic Ocean, facing a sea of blue-green water, with emerald-green hills to our left and right, and a quaint Irish fishing village behind us. It was picture perfect.

The Cleggan Beach Riding Centre instructors paused for us to take in the view, take some photographs, and took time to point out the historic features of the area, including an ancient Celtic monument that overlooked the beach. Our riding group was then split into trotters and gallopers.

There would be several trips up and down the beach. Before setting the riders on their path, the instructors gave the less-experienced riders key instruction on steering and stopping.

With giddy smiles, Anna and I awaited our turn to traverse the beach. She situated her horse in front of mine, with the ocean to her left and the dunes to the right.

“Can you believe we are about to gallop our horses on an Irish beach? Look at this—it’s beautiful!” said Anna.

And then the only sound was the wind rushing past my ears as I leaned forward, urging Oscar into a canter, then letting him eat up the ground as he splashed down the beach. It was wet, it was sandy, it was salty. It was a perfect ride.

I heard the rhythm of Oscar’s hooves pounding the edge of the surf, and with each stride I was soaring. With my heels down and weight centered, I forgot to be concerned about the English saddle and instead just enjoyed the ride.

Laughter carried from the novice group to our ears, as each trip they made the children and adults alike grew bolder in their speed. The excitement in the air was palpable.

All too soon, I guided Oscar from sand to blacktop. There was sand on my face, sand covering my Western boots, and I noticed Oscar’s coat was shining with droplets of sea water. Yet both he and I were relaxed.

The walk back to the Centre was quiet, with riders all smiling at the beach adventure. A young family would take home memories of their ride, and perhaps inspire one of the children for riding lessons. No matter the saddle experience before we set out on our trek, each one of us was returning to the barn with a better understanding of riding.

Anna and I were the last to leave the arena. We lingered over saying goodbye to our respective mounts. In the car headed back to Clifden, with the windows down and the smell of sea in the air, I was all smiles. Ireland offered this Texas stock-horse rider hope to fulfill a dream, and the reality was so much more than I could have hoped.

Horses of Ireland

The horse holds a special place in the culture and heritage of Ireland. According to Irish Horse Gateway, a website connecting buyers and sellers of Irish horses, the country is home to three native breeds: the Connemara pony, the Irish Cob and the Kerry Bog pony.

In addition, horse owners in Ireland created three more breeds through careful selection: the Irish Draught, a sturdy horse that could handle both riding and farm work; the Irish Sport Horse, a cross of Thoroughbred and Irish Draught; and the newest, the Irish Warmblood, a stud book officially recognized in 2009.

The Irish Cob and Connemara pony are advertised in most riding adventures, and it’s no secret why they’re popular. Irish Cobs in particular are noted for their excellent temperament and flowing hair. Their short, wide backs make them very comfortable under saddle. The Connemara is beloved for its versatility, athleticism and cheerful character.

Thoroughbreds also are a point of pride for the Irish. The Irish National Stud, a Thoroughbred breeding facility established in 1900, is located in County Kildare and manages the official stud book. The Irish National Stud is home to stallions renowned for steeplechase and racing. As a national organization, the Irish National Stud truly belongs to the people of Ireland. Visitors can view the stallions and living legends that are retired to the farm, as well as visit the historic horse museum.

From the carriage horses in Dublin and the horses still used to work farms to the ponies that carry tourists on hacks, horses thrive in Ireland.

For more information on Irish horse history, start by visiting irishnationalstud.ie or theconnemarapony.ie.

This article about exploring the Emerald Isle by horseback originally appeared in the January 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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