Ignoring any part of a horse’s nutrient intake can threaten digestive health, immune system support and overall wellness, but a lack of water for even a short amount of time will quickly lead to significant health risks.  

With water intake, however, it’s not just about drinking. A horse’s hydration needs will vary according to diet, nutrition needs and performance demands. 

“The right nutritional balance starts with high-quality hay and pasture. That essential fiber supports proper digestive function and sustains hydration and electrolytes that a horse needs, especially a performance horse,” said Kristyn Sturken, Sentinel® Product Manager. 

Though using diet to influence hydration starts with hay and forage, it doesn’t end there. The type of feed you provide can also positively impact your performance horse’s water intake. 

Guidance for Keeping a Horse Hydrated 

Simply giving access to water does not guarantee a horse will drink enough. Water taste, smell and temperature all affect a horse’s desire to drink, and diet must also be considered. For example, a horse that is eating a lot of pasture, with a high moisture content, may drink less than if he’s consuming primarily hay, which is drier and could induce thirst. 

With that in mind, here are some tips for making sure a horse stays properly hydrated: 

• Offer water: Encouraging a horse to drink can help stimulate thirst. 

• Monitor sweat loss: High temperatures, humidity and intense exercise make a horse sweat, which might require adjusting electrolyte supplementation to offset what’s been lost. 

• • • A horse that is sweating normally will have a lightly moist, shiny coat, particularly under the saddle. 

• • • Sweat will spread to the neck, chest and legs in a horse that is exercising harder. 

• Supplement with electrolytes: Giving a horse a well-balanced electrolyte supplement can help replenish minerals lost during exercise. 

• Forage: Forage provides a significant source of potassium, which can help horses maintain water balance.  

Additionally, it’s essential to know the signs of dehydration. While fatigue, illness or reduced performance are worrying, if dehydration is not tended to promptly, it could result in grave health issues. 

Look for these signs of dehydration and take action immediately if found:

• Elevated heart rate or pulse exceeding 40 beats per minute  

• Changes in gum color or loss of moisture on the gums 

• Loss of skin elasticity; pinch along the neck in front of the shoulder to test—it should retract without delay 

Helping a Horse by Soaking Extruded Feed 

Extruded feed is different from pelleted feed; it is pressure cooked with moisture, which produces light, airy nuggets that encourage more chewing and, subsequently, more saliva production. Slower chewing and increased saliva production help maintain the precise nutrient balance healthy horses require and can support hydration. 

In addition to easy digestibility making nutrients more accessible to the horse, extruded feeds can be easily soaked and prepared as a mash. This can be done much quicker than it takes to soak pellets and can provide extra hydration in horses who are not drinking enough water, which can also help prevent choke. 

Getting a horse to drink more water may help prevent certain digestive upsets associated with high-stress, high-intensity conditions performance horses might experience. 

High-Quality H2O and Electrolytes 

Performance horses are particularly susceptible to electrolyte imbalances because of significant fluid losses from sweat. Electrolytes are minerals that, when dissolved in water, are vital for a multitude of bodily functions, including nerve transmission, muscle contraction and fluid balance.  

Competitive horses face an increased risk of fatigue, reduced muscle efficiency and worsened nerve function if their electrolytes are not replenished. In severe cases, serious health complications can arise. 

Key electrolytes and their function: 

• Sodium (Na): Regulates fluid balance and is essential for nerve impulse transmission. 

• Chloride (Cl): Works alongside sodium to maintain fluid balance and is a component of stomach acid, aiding digestion. 

• Potassium (K): Crucial for muscle function and helps maintain the body’s acid-base balance. 

• Calcium (Ca²): Necessary for muscle contractions, nerve function and blood clotting. 

• Magnesium (Mg²): Involved in muscle relaxation and energy production. 

Supplementing Electrolyte Intake 

You can buy supplements to help restore your horse’s electrolyte balance. These are available as additives for your horse’s water, or even as an oral gel or paste. When using, always follow the label instructions. 

Providing salt is another way to help maintain electrolyte balance. In addition to acting like an electrolyte, salt can also stimulate thirst and encourage a horse to drink more water. 

Whichever method you choose, your horse needs free access to water. Electrolytes can encourage your horse to drink water. 

Also keep in mind that some horses do not like water with additives in it, so when adding electrolytes to their drinking supply, make sure to have a separate, fresh water source available. 

Keep a Horse Hydrated for His Health and Wellness 

A horse must stay well-hydrated to maintain proper nutrient balance and support his diet, workload and lifestyle needs. It’s important to recognize the signs of dehydration and understand what behaviors and conditions increase the risk. There are many effective strategies to help keep your horse hydrated. By actively managing your horse’s water intake, you can help prevent serious health issues and ensure they stay healthy, comfortable and performing at their best.  

This article is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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When you’re training toward a goal, consistency is important, but be mindful when you ride to avoid overheating—or worse. For practical advice on summer riding, we turned to veterinarians in two hot—but very different—regions, the Southeast and Southwest.

Hot and Dry

Summer temps in the desert Southwest can easily climb to 120° Fahrenheit, so riding between mid-morning and late afternoon is strongly discouraged.

“Ride early and be done by 10 a.m. or break it into two sessions,” advises Christine Staten, DVM, a large animal veterinarian and owner of Adobe Veterinary Center in Tucson, Ariz. “[You can] ride early in the morning and late in the day, instead of one long session.”

In addition to shorter rides, don’t hesitate to head for the shade for quick breaks.

“In dry environments, just getting under shade can reduce the temperature by 20 degrees,” she notes.

“This advice is as much for riders as it is for horses,” says Staten. “We see more heatstroke in riders in the middle of a hot day than in horses. Every year in Tucson, we have people die from heatstroke on the trail.”

Hot and Humid

Heat and humidity alone can be challenging for horses. Add exercise to the equation and health risks increase.

“The coastal humidity in Florida multiplies the heat index substantially because it reduces the body’s ability to dissipate heat through evaporation or sweating,” explains Caitlyn Henderson, DVM, of Peterson Smith Equine Hospital in Ocala, one of Florida’s largest equine clinics. “It’s akin to trying to breathe and cool yourself from under a hot, wet blanket.”

In addition to not riding during midday, Henderson always advises having a shaded area where horse and rider can take short breaks. Keep buckets of cool water available so the horse can drink. When humidity climbs, it helps to add a misting fan if the area has access to electricity.

Quick Math

For a simple assessment on riding safety, add the air temperature to the humidity percentage.

When the combined total is under 130, a healthy horse can effectively cool himself. When the combined total is between 130 to 150, the horse’s ability to cool himself is decreased.

If the combined total is over 150, this ability is greatly reduced. Once the combined total is over 180, conditions can be life threatening for any horse under physical stress.

A good rule of thumb is to avoid riding if the air temperature and humidity combined total over 150.

Horses at Risk of Overheating

Certain horses are more vulnerable to overheating. These include:

• Old or very young
• Not acclimated to climate
• Out of condition
• Heavily-muscled, thicker body types
• Diagnosed with an endocrine disease, like PPID (Cushing’s disease)
• History of equine asthma
• Recovering from a recent respiratory challenge
• Diagnosed with anhidrosis (partial or total inability to sweat)

“If your horse shows any signs of heat stress, have your veterinarian evaluate him to determine if there are underlying issues,” says Staten. “If this is happening, there’s probably something going on that needs to be addressed so we can come up with a plan to remedy it.”

Acclimation

Whether you live in a hot, arid region or where it’s hot and humid, it’s critical that your horse be acclimated to those conditions before strenuous exercise.

After 25 years of equine practice in Tucson, Staten has never seen a healthy, acclimated horse have heatstroke. The problems she sees are in horses that have recently moved to the area or have an endocrine disease, like PPID, or have anhidrosis.

Staten finds the best season to move a horse to the desert Southwest is fall or winter, as this gives the most time to acclimate. If you move in spring, expect acclimation to take at least a couple of months.

“Dark-colored horses struggle more when trying to acclimate to our weather. If a horse is still shedding a winter coat in spring, that can make it rough on them,” she cautions.

“It’s recommended that human athletes take six weeks, minimum, to acclimate to a new climate, and no less than that should be afforded to our equine athletes,” says Henderson.

She finds it easier for horses to gradually acclimate to heat and humidity if they’re introduced to it in early spring, at latest.

Proceed with caution if you’ve just moved to an area where it’s significantly hotter and more humid than where your horse lived previously.

“I see a lot of riders who come here from New York and New Jersey and just want to ride, but to do this in the summer months is going to be more of a challenge,” says Henderson.

She recommends giving the horse a full week to recover from travel. Then return to light work under saddle, exercising at the coolest time of the day for at least six weeks as the horse acclimates.

She encourages riders to take it day by day, because some horses need more time than others to adjust.

Keep Horses Drinking When It’s Hot

Hydration is critical for horses in hot weather.

Electrolyte loss due to exercise or simply sweating can lead to metabolic stress and decrease the horse’s thirst response, which can result in dehydration and overheating.

In addition to access to salt (plain or trace mineral), horses may need electrolyte supplementation to replenish the sodium, potassium, calcium, and chloride lost through sweating and urination.

Henderson tells riders to prepare for summer temps by introducing electrolytes to the horse’s diet earlier in the year. The goal is to encourage water intake year-round, so horses are always well hydrated before exercising.

“If you’re at a show, offer water between classes,” says Staten. “If you’re on the trail and there’s a place to drink, let them. A horse should always be allowed to drink, even when he’s hot.”

Cool Down

Many people think the best way to cool a hot horse after exercise is just to walk him in the shade. However, research shows that the most efficient method is to continuously shower a stationary horse with cool (79° Fahrenheit) tap water. In a recent study, this method decreased the horse’s core temperature in an average of just two minutes.

“Focus water on the jugular vein and the large veins inside the legs,” says Staten, noting that this helps cool the horse’s core temperature.

Finish cooling out by slowly walking the horse until his respiratory rate and body temperature are normal. Movement helps remove lactic acid from the system and keeps muscles from tightening up.

Always allow the horse to drink during recovery. Research shows that horses voluntarily drink more within the first hour after exercise when water is about 68° Fahrenheit.

Offer half a gallon of water at a time throughout the cool-down process until the horse doesn’t want to drink any more. Make sure there is plenty of water in his stall/corral to drink after he’s totally cooled out.

Summer Travel

Any time you trailer during the summer, pick the coolest part of the day to travel. Increase air flow by opening all vents and windows, but for safety’s sake, do not let horses put their heads outside the trailer.

“Hot metal is like an oven, so get them out of the trailer as soon as you get where you’re going,” says Staten.

Common Sense

So, is it ever too hot to ride?

“If you think you are going to struggle to get through a ride due to the heat, so will your horse,” says Henderson. “If there’s ever a time you think it might just be too hot to ride, you’re probably right. Go with your gut feeling and take your horse’s health into consideration. It’s never wrong to delay a ride for a cooler time of day for the safety of your horse.”

This article about when it may be too hot to ride a horse appeared in the July 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Below, we’ll examine what heat stress looks like, the warning signs, what to do if your horse overheats, and how to prevent dehydration from heat stress.

What Causes Heat Stress in Horses?

Horses primarily create heat while digesting their feed and during any activity that requires their muscles to work. Even light activity in extremely hot, humid weather could cause your horse to overheat.

You may notice that your horse’s blood vessels appear larger and distended when it’s hot outside. This reaction is normal, as it shunts the blood to the skin to rid the body of excess heat; however, this doesn’t provide adequate cooling if the air temperature is warmer than the horse’s body temperature.

Other than humans, horses are the only mammals that sweat. During hotter conditions, they primarily use this mechanism to wet the body and allow cooling via evaporation. The problem occurs when the sweat doesn’t evaporate to allow adequate cooling, potentially leading to heat stress.

“Horses are pretty efficient at dissipating heat compared to species that don’t sweat,” says Kris Hiney, Ph.D., associate professor and Equine Extension Specialist at Oklahoma State University. “But they can still get heat stress [during] prolonged periods of high temperatures or working in high temperatures. Very young or infirm horses are more likely to suffer from heat stress.”

Detecting Heat Stress

Hot skin and profuse sweating or less sweating than expected for the activity could be warning signs of heat stress. Hiney advises looking for high body temperature, an elevated heart rate, and a respiration rate beyond what’s expected for the workload.

“Working in hot temperatures may not be completely avoidable,” she says. “[But] it’s important to recognize the signs that your horse may be overheating.”

Hiney recommends practicing the following techniques ahead of time so both you and your horse will be familiar with them when needed.

◆ Use a rectal thermometer (keep one with you if you’re far from a barn) to monitor heat load. Body temperature will normally increase with exercise, and body temperatures of 104 degrees to 106 degrees Fahrenheit are common for some events.

However, horses with these body temperatures need to be cooled carefully. If a horse’s temperature is over 106 degrees, take immediate action to cool the horse. Temperatures reaching 107 degrees may require veterinary assistance.

◆ Check your horse’s heart rate, either with a stethoscope or manually. When the horse is allowed to rest, his heart rate should noticeably begin to drop. It should return to 40 to 50 beats per minute within 15 minutes. Failure of the heart rate to drop quickly indicates heat stress.

“Flared nostrils and heaving flanks while breathing are not only from work, but also from the increased heat load,” Hiney explains. “Allow the horse to rest and watch carefully for a reduction in breathing rate and intensity.”

◆ Assess the amount and location of sweat. Normal sweating patterns include along the neck, flanks and between the hind legs. With intense exercise or extreme temperatures, the horse may be completely covered in sweat and will need help being cooled.

A horse that has ceased sweating is most likely suffering from heat exhaustion and is in critical need of care.

How to Treat Heat Stress

If you suspect your horse is overheating, it’s vital to stop exercising and move him to a cooler setting right away. You will likely need to help him cool down to prevent heat stress from turning into heat stroke, which can have dire consequences.

“Evaporation through sweat is the major way horses dissipate heat, but high humidity levels will limit the effectiveness of sweating,” says Hiney. “Increase airflow to the skin by removing all tack and equipment and use a sweat scraper to remove excess sweat.

“Cool running water can greatly aid in cooling,” she continues. “Apply water or even ice along major blood vessels like the neck, chest and inside of the legs. Blood will cool as it passes through these areas and then return to the trunk of the body to help dissipate the heat load. Continual application of cool, running water will prevent the warming of the water on the horse’s skin. Otherwise, use a scraper to remove the warm water and increase the rate of cooling. Water left on the skin will warm rapidly and trap heat against the horse’s body.”

Hiney says that you can still help your horse cool down even when you don’t have access to running water by using a sponge to wet the major blood vessels. Again, you should concentrate on the neck and chest. She also suggests adding rubbing alcohol to the water to increase evaporation and aid in cooling.

If you need to cool your horse while riding if you’re not near running water, Hiney suggests using a squirt bottle to apply cool water along the major exposed blood vessels in the neck and chest. You can refill your water bottle from streams, lakes or stock tanks.

“Air movement is another major way that animals lose heat,” she says. “Supplying fans or keeping the horse in a breezy area is ideal. Fans with higher velocities provide more effective cooling. If you have access to electricity, put a fan near the arena to aid in cooling during rest periods. This fan can greatly assist with continuing normal training during the summer. Even so, be sure that the horse’s heart rate and respiration rate have dropped before returning to work.

“Simple strategies like keeping the horse in the shade or riding in shaded areas prevent heat gain directly from the sun,” Hiney adds. “Standing under trees is even more useful, as the horse will radiate heat up to the leaves, which are continually cooled by their own evaporation.”

She warns that heat stress can quickly turn to heat stroke. If you feel this is happening, cease work, strip tack off the horse, and get him into the shade immediately. When facing heat stroke, veterinary care with IV fluids may be necessary.

Heat Index

Through appropriate management, heat stress can be prevented. Start by paying attention to the heat index in your area to understand when it’s dangerous to work your horse. Although different horses may tolerate heat differently, follow general guidelines to ensure you’re not putting your horse in danger.

“Pay attention to heat and humidity,” Hiney advises. “A good rule of thumb is to add the values of the temperature [in degrees Fahrenheit] and humidity [relative percentage] to get the horse’s comfort index. Horses cool themselves normally—unless dehydrated or fatigued—if the combined values are below 130.

“If the combined temperature and humidity is over 150 (such as 90 degrees Fahrenheit with 60 percent humidity), horses will need assistance in cooling,” she continues. “If temperatures and humidity are expected to reach 170, it may be best to plan early morning riding or skip intense work. Even riding in the evening may not see a large drop in temperature until the sun has been down for several hours.”

Dangerous Dehydration

High heat or excessive sweating can cause dehydration in horses. If your horse doesn’t replace the fluid lost during sweating by drinking adequate water, he can become dehydrated, which can be life-threatening.

“Horses can become dehydrated in as little as two to three hours under the right conditions,” says Hiney. “Horses need to be well-hydrated before beginning to work, for example, horses that have come off of a long trailer ride.”

She explains that some warning signs of dehydration include prolonged capillary refill time (checked by pressing your finger into the horse’s gums) and tenting when skin is pulled from the neck or over the eye. The horse may also have a gaunt or tucked-up appearance.

Colic and overheating are possible, but if the horse gets an electrolyte imbalance due to dehydration, tying up and even death could occur.

“The primary mechanism horses use to dissipate heat is through sweating,” says Hiney. “Sweating leads to dehydration if the horse isn’t allowed to replenish, and the rate of sweating can outstrip the ability to keep up.

“Warm body temperatures encourage horses to drink, so allow access to water in the cool-down period,” she continues. “Allow frequent sips of cool water. Saline can also help replenish water and electrolytes, but be sure to have plain water available, too.”

Key Takeaway

Luckily, horses usually bounce back after a bout of heat stress or dehydration without any lasting effects. However, both can become very serious conditions in a relatively short span and, if left untreated, can lead to death.

It’s best for your horse’s health to not allow either to begin with by ensuring he always has access to clean, fresh water and avoiding exercise in extremely hot weather.

Ride in the morning when it’s coolest, and reduce ride time and intensity when it’s hot and humid, or refrain altogether if the temperature and humidity are above safe levels.

This article about heat stress appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Planning a Beach Trip with Your Horse

Before you load up your horse and head to the nearest beach, do your research. Not all beaches allow horses, and some have limited or seasonal hours.

Ashley Hall of Winter Park, Fla., has access to several beautiful equestrian friendly beaches within trailering distance. Her list includes Amelia Island, St. Augustine, Fort Pierce and Canaveral National Seashore. Hurricane season can impact accessibility and close beaches due to storm damage, however.

Once weather is considered, look up your local beach’s hours and rules for bringing horses. Hall has ridden at Canaveral National Seashore, which keeps a strict set of rules for equestrians. Horses aren’t allowed to visit from April 15th to October 31st due to turtle nesting season, and you must make reservations beforehand. They only allow six horses at a time on the sand. A permit costs $75 and grants you a four-hour time slot in the morning or afternoon.

Skip the beach during popular holidays to avoid crowds, and always consider your parking situation beforehand. Haul with friends or bring a smaller horse trailer (if possible) when the parking lot is tight.

I reside in Los Angeles, Calif., with two riding beaches nearby. Both are primarily enjoyed by families in highly populated city areas, making winter or spring a better time to visit. At Loon Point Beach in Carpinteria, horse trailer parking is parallel to the street in one direction. I saddle up on a sidewalk to avoid the road with active traffic. This busy situation works for my easygoing mare, but not all horses are familiar with an urban environment.

The second beach at Rincon Point has a spacious parking lot, but I always pull in and immediately turn around and face outward to avoid potentially being blocked in by cars. These simple details facilitate a smooth and stress-free arrival and departure.

The First Visit

Trailering your own horse is a much different experience than riding a seasoned rental horse that rides down the beach daily. When horses see and hear the ocean for the first time, it can be overwhelming to even the most levelheaded horse.

Britt Sabbah of Agoura Hills, Calif., enjoys frequent beach trips with her three horses, including one 4-year-old. She understands a first trip to the water can be intimidating.

“I think the sound of the tide coming in and out and the waves crashing can be a little bit spooky for them,” says Sabbah. “They don’t really know what to do with that and it probably feels like the whole earth is going to just drop out beneath them.”

If you’re worried about your horse being jumpy or want to take away some stimuli, bring earplugs to help dull the roaring sound of waves.

“I think for some horses, earplugs or a soundproof bonnet helps because then they’re not listening to the sound of the waves crashing and getting spooked by the noise,” says Sabbah.

Horses are flight animals. It’s a natural reaction to try and flee when they see a large wave approaching them. The time of year, weather, and low or high tide can impact the size of the waves. For this reason, Sabbah likes to always check local tide charts before planning her trip. She advises first-time beach riders to consider this when planning a visit.

“I think it’s much easier on them for the first time (at the beach) to go at low tide,” says Sabbah. “There’s a lot more beach, and the waves aren’t crashing as much and coming as close to them.”

Riding at high tide also means you’ll be going through deeper sand. Your horse will be more susceptible to pulling a tendon or getting sore for a few days if he’s out of shape.

Splashing through the waves can be an enjoyable experience for horse and rider once you get acclimated. On my first beach trip with my mare, Fira, she wasn’t confident enough to go in the water on her own.

I dismounted, soaking my old boots and leading her into the waves. Once she realized it was safe, she began happily splashing. I’ve trailered to the beach five times, and each trip, we walk into the water with more confidence.

Sabbah’s first experience with her pony, Louie, was a fun experience, but she didn’t put pressure on him, making the trip a positive outing for both of them.

“I couldn’t get him in the water the first time, but he had a lot of fun trotting along the beach,” she says. “I didn’t have any idea what to expect that first time, and didn’t push him in any way [to get in the water].”

Hall’s trusty mount, Cowboy, handles his beach trips like a pro, but the first view of the ocean takes a lot of horses by surprise.

“You never know when you’re taking a horse for the first time how they’re going to be,” says Hall. “When they see the ocean, their head goes straight up in the air and they’re a little freaked out.”

If you have a set of older tack, consider bringing it, because you might just get soaked. I like to bring a dry pair of tennis shoes to drive home in because my jeans and boots usually get soaked.

Keep It Fun & Safe

It can be tempting to toss a bareback pad in the trailer and consider yourself packed. After all, bareback on the beach is the ultimate dream, right? Hall thought about bringing her bareback pad for her first trip with Cowboy, but opted to ride in her English saddle. She felt much safer and secure with a set of stirrups underneath her.

Horseback riding is always better with friends, and it’s great to bring along some dependable, calm equine role models. Hall’s trusty mount, Cowboy, handles his beach trips like a pro. For Hall’s first ride with Cowboy, her group had a mix of horses who had been before and first-timers.

“I think it definitely helps to go with a buddy who has a horse that is good about the water, because they really like to follow each other,” says Hall. “If they’re able to follow another horse that’s really confident into the water, that really helps them.”

Hall’s group of friends and horses spent their day taking photos, cantering alongside each other on the beach, and capturing those special horse-girl memories while everyone checked off an epic bucket list ride.

This article about riding your horse on the beach appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you live in an area where sunlight is plentiful and horses spend hours outside, you’ve most likely seen white faces turn pink as warmer weather takes hold. Like humans, horses are susceptible to sunburn, which occurs when skin is exposed to too much ultraviolet (UV) light. Horses most likely to be affected by too much sun are those with white hair/pink skin on their faces and large swaths of white or lighter colors on their bodies, like Paint Horses and Appaloosas. Though most of us are familiar with sunburn and its manifestation in horses, there is an equine condition that causes what looks like sunburn on steroids, called photosensitization, or photosensitivity.

Photosensitization occurs when certain photodynamic compounds in the skin are exposed to sunlight, which causes a chemical reaction that damages cells. The injured area will become ulcerated, fluid-filled and painful. Like sunburn, this condition often affects areas on the horse that are lightly pigmented and have sparse hair covering, like the muzzle, eyes, tips of ears, and base of the tail.

There are multiple types of photosensitivity; the type a horse is experiencing is classified by the source of the photodynamic compound. The kinds that most often impact horses are systemic photosensitivity (often called primary photosensitivity) and hepatogenous sensitivity (also called secondary photosensitivity).

No matter the cause, the signs of photosensitivity are similar, though the time between exposure and onset of signs may vary.

Feel the Burn

Photosensitization is often seen in summer months when sunlight is most intense and pasture grasses are thriving. Mild photosensitization or cases in early stages may be difficult to discern from sunburn, but advanced cases are easy to recognize.

Light and white areas of the horse affected by photosensitivity can often be so damaged that an owner may worry that the horse got tangled in something, like a wire fence. The skin can be red and blistered, as well as swollen and hot to the touch. Photosensitivity on the legs can also look like scratches (also known as dew poisoning, mud fever, greasy heel or pastern dermatitis).

The blisters eventually break, leaving oozing, raw areas that will become crusty and eventually peel away. Horses experiencing photosensitivity may rub or scratch affected areas, further damaging skin. The wounds can easily become infected without diligent care.

Substances that cause photosensitization can be found in plants and drugs; some chemicals may also act photosensitizing agents. For horses, the compounds most often to blame are plant-derived.

Primary Photosensitivity in Horses

Primary photosensitivity takes place when a photodynamic agent has been ingested by the horse or injected into his body or absorbed through the skin. The agent then circulates throughout the bloodstream, but only causes skin cell damage when the horse is exposed to UV light.

One common pasture plant containing a toxin that can cause primary photosensitivity is alsike clover (Trifolium hybridum), which looks similar to red clover (Trifolium pretense) or white clover (Trifolium repens). Red and white clover are purposely planted for hay and pasture, so it’s important to identify which is which.

Other plants that can cause primary photosensitization are buckwheat, oatgrass, perennial ryegrass and St. John’s wort.

Many other plants (including other clovers and Bermudagrass) are suspected to cause primary photosensitization, but the specific toxins have not yet been identified. Hay made from any plants that cause photosensitivity may also cause a reaction, as the toxins are not destroyed by drying.

Certain drugs can also cause photosensitization, so a conversation with your horse’s veterinarian may be warranted if he is on any of the following: phenothiazine, some sulfonamides (like trimethoprim sulfa), and tetracycline.

Secondary Photosensitivity in Horses

Secondary photosensitivity is the most common photosensitivity found in horses; it takes place when a horse’s liver is compromised to the point where he can’t metabolize specific chemicals normally.

Liver damage can be caused by a myriad of things, but this type of photosensitivity often occurs when a horse ingests plants or blue-green algae that damage the liver, affecting its ability to remove photodynamic compounds from the bloodstream.

Horses most at risk of this type of photosensitization are turned out on pastures that are overgrazed and in poor condition. Oftentimes, more than one horse in a field will be affected by secondary photosensitization.

Some plants can cause both primary and secondary photosensitivity, but the more profound toxic effects, such as liver damage, come from the ingestion of plants that contain pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs). Plants with higher levels of PAs include buttercup, comfrey, heliotrope, kale, lanata and ragwort, among many others.

You should call a vet if your horse has no appetite, is lethargic or jaundiced, or is in poor body condition in addition to being sensitive to sunlight; these are all signs of liver damage. Additional diagnostic testing may be necessary to determine how impaired liver function is.

Treatment of Photosensitization

Treatment of the wounds caused by photosensitization is often simply management of symptoms while allowing the skin to heal. Horses experiencing photosensitization should be kept out of the sun and preferably off the pasture that caused the photosensitive reaction. The wounded area should be kept as clean as possible to minimize secondary skin infections, and it is critical to keep flies at bay.

Gentle cleaning of the affected area is recommended; scabs covering the damaged skin should be left alone because picking or removing them could prolong healing and encourage infection. A vet may prescribe steroids to relieve some of the inflammation or an antibiotic if the infection is severe.

Prevention of Photosensitization

Owners of horses with lots of chrome should be diligent in their assessment of white legs and faces (as well as bodies). It’s much easier to heal lesions caused by photosensitivity if the wounds are caught early, but it’s even better to keep sun-related injuries at bay. Try the following:

◆ Use a child-safe sunblock on the areas of the horse that are likely to burn, like around noses and eyes. As always, the higher the SPF number, the more protection the product will offer.

◆ Apply a diaper rash cream, which contains zinc oxide. The sticky product often stays in place longer than traditional sunscreens when the horse grazes in taller grass. An added bonus: These creams are so thick that an owner can tell if a spot was missed during application and bare skin remains exposed.

◆ Consider using shampoos, coat care products and fly sprays that tout their ability to help block sunlight. Remember that these products may not adequately protect a horse’s skin when used alone.

◆ Use fly masks with ear or muzzle coverings; if using a fly sheet or fly boots, opt for products with UV protection.

The wounds and pain caused by photosensitization can be significant and the healing process arduous. Though the cause may never be clear, the owner of any horse who has experienced a photosensitive episode will remain diligent in their monitoring of white patches to try to prevent it from happening again.

Removing Common Culprits of Photosensitization

Alsike clover and St. John’s wort are common causes of photosensitivity in horses, and their management in fields can be key to preventing repeat occurrences.

If alsike clover hasn’t taken over a field, it can be sprayed or removed by hand. However, if the pasture is infested, complete renovation should be considered to prevent the ongoing ingestion of the plant by horses.

St. John’s Wort spreads both by seed and underground rhizome, so it can be difficult to eradicate manually or with herbicide application. It’s also resistant to many herbicides, so a call to your local extension agent may be needed to get advice on how to eliminate it from fields. Biological controls like flea beetles, moths and midges have been used to kill St. John’s Wort, as they ingest the foliage but don’t harm other pasture grasses.

If you suspect a problem or the wounds have gotten severe, contact your vet for advice on an immediate treatment protocol.

This article about photosensitivity in horses appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Flies love to land on horses’ lower legs, and even the most diligent fly spray regimen can’t always prevent stomping-related cracked and chipped hooves or loose and lost shoes. There is more at stake than gallons of fly spray and dust clouds in the paddock. Are you ready to stop the stomp and help your horse?

That symphony of stomps you hear as you approach your horse’s pasture can be an ominous warning sign of hoof problems to come. If you start to see hoof health deteriorate as summer progresses, you may soon be facing increased farrier bills and even a horse that need time off.

Be a Keen Observer

What’s a horse owner to do? First, make a plan—but make it early in the summer, before the flies take over.

The first step is to understand that the sound of a horse stomping the ground may mean different things, and you must be dedicated to checking your horse several times a day.

Stomping at flies is a normal reaction for horses when flies buzz around and land on lower legs. But a horse will also stomp the ground if he has unearthed a wasp’s nest or biting-ant hill in the ground; he may need your help, especially in a small pen.

Likewise, a horse may be nervously pawing the ground, not stomping. If you hear the sound of stomping when you shouldn’t, don’t assume that your horse is reacting to flies. Always investigate unusual sounds coming from a pen or pasture.

Next, learn what is “normal” for flies in your area and on your farm. Some areas cycle through different types and densities of flies over the course of the summer.

Flies may bother horses more or less at different times of the day, or in different weather conditions. Make notes about what you notice about the flies around your horse and around your barn, in general. If your horse prefers a certain part of a paddock, it may be because there are fewer flies or the ground is softer and pounding isn’t so jarring.

If your horse is sensitive to biting flies, have topical astringents and healing ointments on hand to dab broken skin and welts. Exposed wounds on the lower legs will attract even more flies. Be prepared to call your vet if sudden swelling occurs.

Learn all you can about horse behavior in the pasture. Horses can become habitual stompers, and tales are told of fly-weary horses who kept on stomping even on windy days when no flies bothered their legs.

Fly Stomping Causes Problems for Feet

Fly stomping can wreak havoc on hooves. Shod horses may experience raised clinches, a loosening of the nails’ grip on the hoof wall. The clinches may suddenly feel rough to the touch.

Ragged clinches may cause cuts and scrapes on the hands and thighs of riders and grooms who pick up hooves for cleaning, and rip or catch on an expensive pair of breeches. They’re another good reason to wear long pants around horses in the summer.

Loose shoes are a special danger when horses are shod with clips. Clips prevent shoes from shifting, but a horse can step down on a loose shoe’s clip and damage his hoof wall or sole. A shoe that comes completely off is a danger to all the horses in a pasture, since any of them can step on its exposed nails or protruding clips.

Frayed “potato chip” feet are common in the summer and worsen as fall approaches. Stomping at flies may make brittle hoof walls worse.

Superficial wall cracks are also common in stomping horses, but a crack that penetrates the wall requires the attention of a farrier. It may worsen over the course of the summer if the horse is stomping repeatedly.

Notify your farrier if you see problems developing so they can be treated before resulting in lameness or requiring special shoeing.

Fighting Off Flies

Horses have their pet peeves. One hates wearing leg wraps. Another fears the sound of sprays and won’t stand still for application. Learn each horse’s fly-related idiosyncrasies, inform everyone who cares for the horse, and find workarounds so every horse has as ideal protection from flies as possible to prevent fly stomping.

What’s in your fly spray? Respect anyone around your barn—whether horse or human—who may be sensitive to fly-control chemicals.

Know how much and how often products should be used. Your paddock fly-control practices should suit the severity of your problem, your horse’s turnout schedule, and your environmental priorities.

10-Step Plan to Eliminate Foot Problems Related to Fly Stomping

1. Think ahead. Keep a calendar and mark when the flies start appearing, what times of day they are the worst, and dates when you notice different types and densities of flies and mosquitoes. Also mark days for manure removal. Likewise, make note of weather, and notice paddock areas that have more or fewer stomping horses.

2. Check each foot on your horse before and after turnout. Look for loose or sprung clinches, bent or gaping shoes, and traces of dried blood that indicate stomp-related skin damage. Examine the insides of legs and pasterns.

3. Try using fly boots. If using repellent, too, apply to both the inside and the outside of the leg from the knee or hock down.

4. Don’t turn out horses near manure piles in summer. Remember that flies love manure, so a horse’s feet and lower legs are already often in close range for a fly. Be diligent about picking out your paddocks so you can deprive flies of the manure they seek.

5. Walk your pastures and look for lost shoes. If you find one, note the location and date found and the name of the horse, if known. Check that horse for hoof damage. Your farrier may be able to re-use the found shoe if it’s in good shape.

6. Quickly address shoes that are partially detached. First, call your farrier. You may be instructed to secure the shoe with duct tape or cover the entire foot with Vetrap and keep the horse in a stall until it can be fixed.

7. Learn to remove a loose or bent shoe. If you’re unsure how to do this, purchase a basic set of farrier tools and ask your farrier to teach you. Store the tools in a clean, dry place and don’t use them for anything but horseshoes.

8. Have your horse on a regular trimming or shoeing schedule. Six weeks is normal, but some horses may need shorter intervals, especially in summer. Don’t be tempted to skip or reschedule an appointment in the summer. Overgrown feet and worn shoes that are left on too long put a horse at risk.

9. Not stomping may be a problem, too. Senior horses, laminitics, or ringbone sufferers will especially appreciate diligent lower-leg fly defense. Is there a horse that’s not stomping at the flies, even though he’s in the same paddock with horses who are? It’s possible that the horse is in pain and doesn’t want to slam a sore foot onto the ground.

10. Stomping feet may be only part of the problem. Make sure your horse is up to date on vaccinations for insect-related diseases. A variety of serious infectious horse diseases are carried by horse flies and mosquitoes.

Flies are a fact of life around horses in the summer. They are a nuisance, but they can also cause problems that will gradually compromise a horse’s wellbeing. Horses instinctively stomp their feet when they sense flies.

Your horse will thank you for stopping the stomp before his hooves are damaged.

This article about fly stomping affecting hooves appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Anhidrosis is a condition defined by the decreased ability to sweat in response to an increased body temperature. It’s often thought to be intricately tied to high heat, but its occurrence is more selective: high temperatures must be in conjunction with high humidity. This condition is cause for concern because between 65 and 70 percent of a horse’s body heat dissipates from sweating, so the inability to cool down can cause a significant impact on health.

Signs of Anhidrosis in Horses

Though horses with anhidrosis are often called “non-sweaters,” this term is misleading: The majority of horses with the condition suffer from incomplete or partial anhidrosis, meaning they don’t sweat as much as they should, or they sweat in abnormal patterns—not that they don’t sweat at all.

This condition is most often diagnosed in performance horses that are in work, but it can affect any horse, including those that are retired and not ridden. Studies have shown that darker-colored horses are often more affected by anhidrosis than their lighter-colored counterparts¹.

This condition doesn’t appear on most horse owners’ radar until their horse has a fairly serious health episode that is linked back to environmental conditions. As temperatures rise, horses suffering from anhidrosis may show a decrease in exercise tolerance and a higher-than-expected respiratory rate for the amount of exercise that was undertaken.

These horses may also have dull, dry haircoats or be seen leaving the herd to stand in the shade alone. Lack of sweating is the most serious manifestation of the disease and often occurs after other clues are present.

As with many equine diseases, it’s better to catch the condition early, when intervention has the greatest chance for impact. Martha Rodgers, VMD, owner of Shephard Hill Equine in Lexington, Ky., recommends learning your horse’s sweat patterns in different temperatures, especially if he’s located in an area with high heat and humidity.

“With a noticeable reduction in sweat capability or pattern, diagnosing the condition earlier has typically made it easier to stimulate increased sweating with the available treatments,” Rodgers says. She notes that if the horse has a complete inability to sweat, the treatment is often less effective overall or can take much longer to see any effects.

What is the Cause of Anhidrosis in Horses?

The cause of anhidrosis isn’t clear, but it’s believed to be linked to overstimulation of the horse’s sweat glands by stress hormones, often in the heat of the summer. Anhidrosis can be brought on by a plethora of triggers, including electrolyte imbalance and overtraining².

Antihistamines and macrolide antibiotic (broad-spectrum antibiotics used against many gram-positive bacteria) use can lead to temporary anhidrosis, but the condition typically abates once the drug ceases to be administered.

The form of anhidrosis most horses experience is called chronic idiopathic anhidrosis (CIA). CIA is frustrating for horse owners as it is the most difficult form to control. A treatment for complete resolution is not yet available, but steps can be taken to make the horse more comfortable.

Researchers at the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) have identified a genomic marker that contributes to CIA. The scientists discovered a genetic marker pointing to a defective potassium transporter channel³. The research team hypothesizes that sweat glands trying to use these damaged channels eventually lose their ability to sweat.

Diagnosis and Management of Anhidrosis

A horse is often diagnosed with anhidrosis by clinical observation and examination, including a medical history. However, a “sweat test” can be done to quantitatively assess how well the horse can sweat.

A sweat test involves a series of intradermal terbutaline injections, which should increasingly stimulate the horse’s sweat glands as medication concentration rises. The vet will likely also run a blood panel that includes an electrolyte analysis; this may assist in the formation of a treatment plan. A skin biopsy can also be performed, but it’s rarely necessary to look at the skin microscopically to make a definitive diagnosis.

Once a horse is diagnosed with anhidrosis, he must be given supportive care to assist with thermoregulation. Management changes are often necessary to ensure the horse’s safety, as well. This doesn’t often mean moving your horse to a cooler climate, although in extreme cases, relocation may be considered.

Simple management modifications can include limiting sun exposure and minimizing turnout during the hottest time of day. Reducing training and showing schedules is often necessary, but making sure the horse isn’t ridden during the hottest part of the day may suffice and allow the horse to remain in work.

Supplements and Acupuncture

Many owners find themselves eager to try anything that could help their anhidrotic horse. You may have heard about adding a daily dark beer to his grain ration; there is no harm in this, though it hasn’t been shown to do much good.

“There are a few supplements that have shown some anecdotal success over the first few days [of use], so response to treatment can be assessed quickly,” Rodgers says. “There are other [supplements] that are typically given over a month or more, and response to treatment with those products may be harder to evaluate, as environmental conditions may change over that length of time.”

Rodgers notes that a 2010 study of Xiang Ru San, a Chinese herbal medicine, used in conjunction with acupuncture showed statistically significant benefit to all 18 horses with anhidrosis that were studied⁴. However, this study relied on owner reporting and didn’t have a control group or double-blind methodology.

A double-blind study of 44 horses conducted in 2012 by the University of Florida also found significantly improved sweat-test results from acupuncture and herbal medicine, and did have a control group. However, these results returned to baseline four weeks after stopping treatment⁵.

“Consistent use of Xiang Ru San while the horse still has some ability to sweat, albeit reduced, has been helpful in my practice,” says Rodgers. “I’ve had the most beneficial, longer-lasting results with consistent management changes and Neuro-Vet paste use soon after diagnosis.”

Unfortunately, it’s important to note that no anhidrosis treatment is one and done.

“Most of the treatments have to be ongoing until consistent increases in sweating ability are seen [which can take a month or more], or until the combined ambient heat/humidity index has declined,” says Rodgers.

Once a horse has had anhidrosis, he should be monitored whenever environmental conditions might trigger it.

Managing anhidrosis can be difficult and a drain on an owner in terms of time and finances. However, with diligent care and a dedicated veterinarian, a horse suffering from anhidrosis can often lead a safe and healthy life—no relocation necessary.

Sources

1. Hagyard Equine Medical Institute
2. University of Florida IFAS Extension
3. University of Florida IFAS Extension
4. American Journal of Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine
5. University of Florida

This article about anhidrosis in horses appeared in the June 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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When it comes to summer, hot weather has its own brand of risk factors for horses. Knowing what can possibly go wrong will allow you to take proactive steps to properly manage your horse’s health in the summer.

Pay close attention to very young and very old horses, both of which are more at risk in hot weather.

Dehydration

The average 1,000-pound horse drinks a minimum of 5 gallons of water a day, often much more during hot weather. Your horse needs 24/7 access to cool, fresh water, which may require relocating water sources into the shade.

“The No. 1 heat-related issue that we see in our practice is dehydration colic,” says Christine Staten, DVM, a large animal veterinarian with Adobe Veterinary Center in Tucson, Ariz. “The GI tract is the lowest priority organ, so when your horse is even slightly dehydrated, the body sends the fluid to the highest priority organs first, which leaves the GI tract super dehydrated. When that happens, it slows down and doesn’t work to move the food and gas. This can be incredibly uncomfortable, and in the worst cases, can progress to a displacement if not addressed.

“The most important and effective treatment for these horses is water, either through a nasogastric tube or through an IV,” Staten continues. “Water is more important than any medication we could give.”

Overheating

As outdoor temps climb, it’s much easier for horses to overheat. It’s important to monitor temperature carefully as a precaution to maintain horse health in the summer.

“Horses that are overheated tend to have higher body temperatures and respiratory rates,” says Staten. “If your horse is not exercising and he is breathing faster than 20 breaths per minute or his body temperature is higher than 101.5 degrees, he is likely overheated.”

Call your veterinarian immediately if your horse shows any of the following signs:

◆ Elevated respiration even when at rest (normal range is 10 to 15 breaths per minute)
◆ Continued elevated pulse when at rest (normal range is 30 to 44 beats per minute)
◆ Irregular heartbeat or “thumps”
◆ Body temperature 103 degrees Fahrenheit or higher
◆ Profuse sweating or no sweating
◆ Dehydration
◆ Depressed, listless attitude

While waiting for the vet to arrive, get your horse into the shade. Allow him to drink as much cool water as he wants.

Using a hose, run cool water over the large blood vessels along the inside of his hind legs, belly and neck. Pouring rubbing alcohol over his back and standing him in front of a fan can also help lower body temperature.

Anhidrosis

Horses living in regions where hot temps are combined with high humidity are more at risk of anhidrosis, which is the partial or total inability to sweat. This can wreak havoc on your horse’s health in the summer.

Signs of anhidrosis include panting, rapid breathing with noticeable flaring of the nostrils, elevated temperature even at rest, decreased energy, and sparse, dry hair coat, sometimes with scaliness or thinned hair on the face, neck and shoulders.

“Anhidrosis is seriously dangerous for a horse’s life, and we do not have a cure for it. It’s primarily about managing their environment,” says Faith Hughes, DVM, DACVS, who has been with Peterson Smith Equine Hospital & Complete Care in Ocala, Fla., since 1991.

Management includes using sprinkler systems and fans, not exercising when it’s hot, feeding during cooler times of day, and making sure the horse always has cool water available. You’ll find a variety of supplements on the market designed to help manage anhidrosis.

Mosquito-Borne Disease

Another major threat to your horse’s health in the summer comes along with those buzzing pests that bother everyone at the barn. Eastern and western equine encephalomyelitis (EEE, WEE) and West Nile virus are the main mosquito-borne diseases that affect horses. Fortunately, proven vaccines are available to prevent them.

These are considered “core” vaccines, meaning all horses should receive them. In regions with heavy mosquito populations, veterinarians often recommend horses be vaccinated against these diseases twice a year to avoid this summer danger for horses.

“We have cases of EEE in Florida every year, which serves as a reminder that this disease is not gone and is not more prevalent only because of vaccination,” says Hughes. “Encephalomyelitis vaccines are more than 99 percent effective at preventing the disease when administered effectively.”

In addition to vaccinating your horse, use repellents labeled for use against mosquitoes. Cut down on mosquito breeding areas by eliminating standing water and damp vegetation.

Fly Problems

Fly control—both on-horse and in the environment—is important, not only because flies are irritating, but because they are responsible for transmitting a variety of diseases, including pigeon fever and equine infectious anemia, to mention only a couple.

House and stable flies also play a role in summer sores (cutaneous habronemiasis), weeping skin lesions caused by the infective larvae of stomach worms.

“Summer sores are very treatable, but they’re uncomfortable for the horse and annoying for the owner,” says Hughes. “Pay attention to any scratch or wound and keep them clean, since summer sores need an open sore to start.”

Hoof Concerns

Flies can also spell trouble for your horse’s hooves.

“I’ve seen horses pop clinches and loosen new shoes in just a couple days from stomping their feet at flies,” says certified journeyman farrier Jason Maki of the College of Veterinary Medicine Teaching Hospital at Texas A&M University. “With continued stomping on hard ground, barefoot horses can bruise and chip their feet.”

White line disease can also increase during the summer in both barefoot and shod horses.
“As the humidity goes up, that fungus tends to proliferate,” says Maki. “Keep an eye out for separation and any gray powder along the white line and dorsal cracks at the toe.” He says the problem is treatable with a topical chlorine dioxide product and proper trimming.
Dry, hard hooves are more susceptible to cracks and chips.

“Providing an area with moisture will help minimize the damage of excessively dry feet,” says Maki. “A classic solution is to overflow the water tank enough that there’s a place for their feet to get damp every day.”

Hooves tend to grow faster during warm weather, so you’ll likely have to shorten your trimming or shoeing cycle.

Poisonous Plants

Weeds—some of which are poisonous to horses—grow quickly during the summer, and can be a danger for horses. Generally speaking, horses will avoid eating poisonous plants, but if they are hungry (or young and curious), they may eat plants they wouldn’t otherwise.

Your local university extension office will have a list of poisonous weeds in your area. Walk turnout areas and fields regularly to identify and remove any poisonous plants.

Feed Spoilage

Feed and hay can grow mold and mildew quickly when it’s hot and humid, so buy smaller quantities. Use your eyes and nose to check for off-smelling feed and hay.

If you wet feed and hay (including hay cubes or pellets) for older horses with dental issues, realize that dampened feed products spoil quickly in the heat. Discard any leftovers promptly and clean feed tubs daily.

Snakebite

If you live in a regions with western or eastern diamondback rattlesnakes, your horse can be at risk of snakebite.

Rattlesnake venom has a necrotizing effect because it starts killing and “digesting” tissue around the bite. In addition to damaging tissue, the venom also affects the victim’s circulatory system, destroying blood cells.

A rattlesnake bite is always an emergency and requires prompt veterinary treatment.

This article about managing horse health in the summer originally appeared in the July 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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This winter, while I clenched my horse’s freezing metal bit between my thighs to warm it up for her, I made a promise. I lifted my eyes skyward and telepathically swore to equestrian higher power Beezie Madden that I would neither whine nor wail about the heat and humidity this year if she would only hasten the arrival of warm weather and make the riding gods bring back the sun. There’s no better season than summer with horses.

The cool weather is a welcome break here in Texas, but four weeks into the season, the bloom is off the rose. It’s dark at 4 p.m., everything is dry, everything is dusty, and I yearn for green grass, turnout, and the end of dragon-longeing season.

So this year, I’m not complaining, both because I promised I wouldn’t look the gift horse of summer in the mouth again, and because there are quite a few points in summer’s favor. That said, I did take a quick peek inside the horse’s mouth, and I have a few, um, notes.

The Heat is On

First, you must allow me to tell you how ardently I adore the warm weather. I don’t care how much I sweat. The heat is so deliciously soft on my exhausted winter skin. Short hair coats on the horses! Short sleeves! Short work of all the cleaning I’ve been postponing. I can spray everything down, because guess what? It’ll dry!

Except, ahem, that it’s not “warm.” It’s hot. So, you’ll need to implement extra tactics to fully enjoy your summer with horses despite the heat.

‘Tis the season to down an electrolyte packet dissolved in a full water bottle before I even don my breeches. Forgetting to hydrate is an inconvenience in the fall, winter, and spring. In summer, it’s a one-way ticket to my heatstroke-riddled shell of a body being shaken awake by an alarmed spouse, who has found me asleep on the floor where I sat down for a quick second to take off my boot socks.

And it’s sweaty. It’s sweatier than an adult amateur who just realized she memorized the wrong course at her first rated show. Has anyone ever been this sweaty? Short sleeves, no sleeves, fully nude, it doesn’t matter, I’m going to leave the barn icky at a minimum, and more likely soaking wet. Horse ownership during summer brings interesting, yet rewarding, consequences.

Horse Baths

Next, it would be impossible for me to overstate my appreciation for the ability to (finally!) bathe my horse. Baths! Baths forever! And the months ahead are full of them. No more currying until my arm is sore, hot toweling, and minding a giant fleece cooler- wrapped mare for an hour while I wait for her to be dry enough to blanket. A quick spritz! A quick scrape! And we’re off! To graze! In the 7 p.m. sun!

On the other hand, I know I said “baths forever,” but baths forever? And it won’t be a quick spritz and scrape, because my horse is sweaty in ways and places that cannot be erased with a quick anything. She needs an actual bath, which she resents, with actual shampoo, which she loathes. And damp legs mean fungus, and fungus means special soaps, and special soaps means more baths, and more baths mean more fungus. And now my mare’s mad. Apologize.

Wet Everything

In addition, let me assure you I really love the enthusiasm with which you tackled my moaning about the lack of moisture in the air all winter. The dry air is gone! The dry hands are gone! The dry hooves are gone! The horsey dandruff is gone! The rubbed-raw tops of dry horse tails are gone!

But also: the dry air is gone. The dry hooves are gone. And now my horse is rubbing the top of her tail because she is irritated from merely existing in the putrid atmosphere. And now she’s showing a full white corner of her eyeball as I slather her with potions to prevent her from balding in the muggy, sticky heat.

Since the summer started, everything in my horse life has been running a low-grade fever of “moist.” It doesn’t matter how many desiccants and deodorizing packs I cram into my drenched helmet and steamy boots. My helmet liner is going to be wet tomorrow. My boots are going to mildew. And in the end, I will beg for blanket season.

Saving Daylight

Finally, whomever stepped up and made summer days last longer—you’re my hero. There are roughly 39 hours of sunlight in every day, which means maximum hours to spend at the barn after I leave the office.

And I have nothing to add here. Extra summer daylight hours are a heaven-sent apology from Beezie herself for the five seconds of civil twilight we have to ride in every day during the winter. And even I wouldn’t dare complain about that.

Happy hydration. Happy trails. Happy summer.

This article about summer with horses originally appeared in the July 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Hydration

An average 1,000-pound horse drinks roughly 4 to 9 gallons of water a day, but can lose up to 2 to 3 gallons of water per hour through sweat alone if in heavy work. When dehydrated, a horse will have dry gums, and his skin will “tent” when pinched and not pop back into place immediately. A severely dehydrated horse will act colicky. His muscles will cramp and he may overheat if his ability to sweat is hampered.

Heat stress compounded with dehydration is a very serious condition that can result in shock and kidney damage. The normal rectal temperature of a horse is 99 to 101 degrees F. During exercise, a horse’s temperature can rise to 103, but will begin to lower quickly during cool-down. A rectal temperature that remains above 103.5 is indicative of heat stress.

Most horse owners know the importance of having fresh water available to horses at all times, but at the height of summer, keeping your horse hydrated can take some extra vigilance.

Electrolytes

Like human athletes, horses require both water and electrolytes to replenish the sodium, chloride, and other elements lost in sweat. Most of the time, unless your horse is undergoing advanced training for elite athletic performance, a salt block is sufficient. Horses are relatively good at regulating their own intake of salt when they need it.

There are several ways you can supplement your horse’s electrolyte intake:

1. Regularly check salt and mineral blocks to make sure there is enough for the horse to consume. Keep these out of the elements, as a heavy rain can dissolve a block quickly.
2. Top-dressing your horse’s feed with some table salt is another method for sweat management; one tablespoon of extra salt is normally adequate.
3. You can also offer electrolytes in your horse’s water with a pre-made electrolyte mix. When using this method, be sure to provide two buckets: one containing plain water and one containing the mix. Your horse will choose how much to consume.

Picky Drinkers

If you’re having trouble getting your horse to drink enough water—especially if he’s a picky drinker and you’re away from home—there a few tricks you can try.

1. Offer a water-soaked gruel; complete feed pellets work for this. If your horse is on a restricted diet, use hay pellets. Soaking your horse’s hay is an easy way to get in some extra moisture as well as a handy tool to decrease dust.
2. Flavoring your horse’s water can help entice him to drink, especially away from home. Gatorade, juice, molasses, and peppermint can all be used, and there are also products made specifically for this purpose available for purchase.

It’s OK for a Hot Horse to Drink—Really!

The notion that hot horses shouldn’t drink is completely false. Never restrict a horse’s access to water, especially if he is hot.

Horses that get colicky “after drinking” are mostly suffering either from muscle cramping because they were not cooled off appropriately; a metabolic disease such as tying up; or clinical dehydration (and sometimes a combination of these issues).

Instead, the rule should be never stall a hot horse immediately after a ride. Walk him until his heart rate is back to normal (28 to 44 beats per minute for an adult horse). Respiration rate will follow heart rate, meaning as HR slows, RR slows. Body temp can be used, but remarkably doesn’t change that much until a horse is severely heat stressed (e.g., heat stroke).

Battling the Heat

When the heat is intense, especially coupled with high humidity, try to ride in the early morning or late evening. If your horse has a demanding conditioning schedule, divide workouts: Instead of a 60-minute session, ride 30 minutes in the morning and 30 in the evening.

Other ways to beat the heat and outsmart the sun include:

1. Make sure your horse has access to shade when out in the pasture during the daytime. Trees or a run-in are all that’s required. If your horse’s pasture is nothing but acres of sun-scorched field, consider stabling him in the middle of the day when it’s extremely hot.
2. Don’t forget a daily swipe of sunblock for gray horses or those with pink skin on their faces. Child-safe block with at least SPF 30 works great.
3. Hosing your horse down after a ride is a great way for an immediate cooldown. Concentrate first on wetting the chest and neck, aiming for the jugular vein. This cools the blood as it returns to the heart, allowing for efficient internal cooling.
4. When you’ve finished rinsing off your horse, use a sweat scraper to remove excess water. This is essential for effective cooling; a horse that is not scraped actually ceases to cool down as his body temperature simply heats up the water and the soaked hair acts as an insulator.

Bug Off

Biting flies, midges, mosquitoes—no question insects can be a summertime burden for horses.

At best, insects can be a nuisance, and at worse, they can spread disease, including West Nile Virus and equine encephalitis. Insects can also incite allergic reactions and cause summer sores and sweet itch.

To minimize bothersome flies around your barn and horses, follow these steps:

1. Horses that have insect hypersensitivity (an allergy that can look like hives, bumps, or worn spots on the coat or along the mane or tail) should be turned out with a lightweight flysheet. Fly masks are also useful to provide relief from insect irritation.
2. If your horse is stabled during the summer, set up a fan in his stall. Flies have difficulty landing when there is an air current, so a well-placed fan creating a strong breeze over a large part of your horse can drastically reduce bug bites in the stall. Air movement from fans is also key for proper barn cooling.
3. Keeping manure picked up in stalls and small paddocks helps keep the fly numbers in check, as does cleaning and refilling water buckets daily. Stagnant water anywhere around the barn is a breeding haven for mosquitoes and other insects.
4. If your barn uses fly tape or traps, check and replace as needed.
5. Flies love filth, so keeping a clean barn will help make it less appealing. Sweep up spilled grain and dispose of your food wrappers and trash. And those empty soda cans or Gatorade bottles for when you needed a refresh after a ride? Take them home with you; sugary trash is a calling card for bugs.

Hoof Care

Dry, hard ground can be hard on a horse’s feet. Hooves can adapt to dry conditions over time, but fluctuations between damp and dry are a challenge, since hooves swell and contract (like our fingers) in response to dampness and dryness. This can predispose hooves to cracking and abscesses. Hoof cracks and lost shoes are commonly seen in the summer because dry conditions can suck moisture out of a horse’s feet.

Here’s how to help your horse’s hooves this summer:

1. When hosing your horse off after a ride, try not to let him stand in water for extended periods of time.
2. Keep up with regularly scheduled farrier visits during the summer to keep hooves trimmed and balanced. Long toes and unbalanced wear make for easily cracked hooves due to uneven bodyweight dispersion.
3. If your horse has dry or brittle hooves, applying a hoof sealant a few times a week during the dry season can help retain some of that moisture. Apply the hoof sealant on the outside wall of the lower two-thirds of the hoof, especially around nail holes.

With a little foresight, a sizzling summer doesn’t have to be stressful on your horse’s health. Get out there and have some fun in the sun.

This article originally appeared in the July 2016 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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