“Some horses lock up their feet and refuse to go forward, while others will step on and fly backward off of the trailer,” says trainer Brittany Malinoski, whose focus is the working cow and ranch divisions. She blends natural and traditional methods in her training program and has a strong passion for colt starting. She operates her Brittany Lee Performance Horses out of Creeks Edge Farm in Lebanon, Tenn.

If you’ve ever had the misfortune of trying to load a difficult horse, you may have wondered just how or why he arrived there. According to Malinoski, horses can find loading onto a trailer challenging for a variety of reasons, including inexperience, an accident involving trailering, poor experiences while hauling as a result of driver error, and even uncomfortable trailering experiences derived from slippery flooring.

Regardless of the reason, Malinoski shares some of her tried and true methods for teaching your horse to overcome his aversion and load like a pro.

Preparing Your Trailer for Self-Loading

Before you begin working through your horse’s trailer loading woes with self-loading as the end goal, make sure that your trailer is safe, comfortable, and inviting by bedding the floor with shavings and placing hay in a bag or net. For the trailer floor, Malinoski prefers trailer mats with shavings and, because it is highly palatable, chooses to offer alfalfa hay.

Trailer preparations aside, Malinoski explains that your horse should have good manners and be solid in his ground handling skills so he can go off the feel of what you’re asking before you attempt to tackle the trailer itself.

Finally, if possible, you may wish to provide your horse with a mentor or buddy skilled at trailer loading. While Malinoski advises that horses should eventually become adept at loading alone in any situation, having an experienced horse to model his loading skills and then waiting patiently in the trailer may make your horse comfortable enough to be drawn inside to join him while he is still solidifying the skill.

Squeeze Game

To help horses become comfortable in narrow spaces such as trailers, Malinoski makes use of an activity called the squeeze game. Using an arena fence or wall, set up two cones or barrels slightly larger than one horse width to create a narrow passage, similar to a trailer stall.

Before beginning, your horse should be outfitted in a rope halter with a lead rope attached. You’ll also need a whip or stick with a flag or string at one end.

Comparable to a longeing exercise, work your horse at the walk on a circle, sending him through the passage on one side of your circle. Be sure to work in both directions.

Malinoski says that while this exercise teaches young horses to be more accepting of tight spaces and lays the groundwork for future trailer loading success, it can also work well for older horses that have developed trailer loading problems.

Getting Your Horse to Successfully Self-Load

Once your horse is doing well with the squeeze game, it’s time to get back to loading. To prepare, you should outfit yourself and your horse just as you did for the squeeze game.

Malinoski begins by working the horse behind the trailer with the doors closed. You can do this by spending a few minutes reinforcing your send-off command at the walk on a small circle in both directions.

Next, open the trailer doors. Using the same commands, send your horse onto the trailer. Have patience and be prepared to drop back and reinforce his skills before trying again.

If the behavior isn’t too deeply confirmed, the session may advance quickly, but in more deeply ingrained instances, it may take a few sessions before your horse is well on his way to being the self-loader you’ve always dreamed of.

Getting Professional Help

Sometimes even the best-laid plans can go awry, and your trailer re-training may not go the way you expected.

While Malinoski says that most amateurs who are solid in their ground handling skills should be able to tackle this issue, she recommends seeking professional help if your horse isn’t making progress, or if he’s regressing from his previous level of expertise.

“In these cases, you should focus on your groundwork away from the trailer and find a professional to help you in the trailering situation,” she advises.

This article about teaching a horse to self-load in the trailer appeared in the May 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Many of us depend on trainers or friends to haul our horses to competitions, trailheads, or emergency veterinary appointments. That’s a sufficient strategy for some, but there’s a particular sort of freedom that comes from taking the leap and selecting a horse trailer of your own, especially if an emergency arises and a friend’s horse trailer is not available.

With an overwhelming array of options on the market, you won’t be starved for choice. Most trailer owners are glad to share their preferences, but it’s essential to choose the rig that’s right for you and your horse. Download our trailer-buying guide to help you navigate the market as you begin selecting a horse trailer.

Selecting Horse Trailer Basics

As you start your search, a couple of seemingly simple factors—both related to size—will direct the process of choosing a horse trailer

Interior Size: The first thing to consider when selecting a horse trailer is the size you need for your horse(s) to be safe and comfortable. A trailer that’s too tight can not only lead to injury, but can be a scary space to enter for nervous horses.

The average horse trailer is built for the average-sized horse, with internal dimensions ranging from 7 to 8 feet in height and 6 to 8 feet in width. Most Quarter Horses would fit just fine in the smaller models, but if you have 16-plus hand Thoroughbreds, you might want something taller, and if you ride Warmbloods, the stalls should accommodate wider bodies, as well.

If you’re towing Miniature Horses or draft horses, you may need a much more specialized horse trailer. According to the University of Maryland Extension, a good rule of thumb is that the trailer should be a minimum of 10 inches taller than your horse’s resting head height and allow 3 inches or more on each side.

Number of Horses: Next, you’ll want to ask yourself how many horses you plan to haul after selecting a horse trailer. Although single-horse trailers are popular in Europe, they are almost non-existent in the U.S. If, like most single-horse owners, you want the option of carpooling with friends or bringing extra hay for overnight trips, a standard two-horse size will do the trick and be easy to find.

If you own two or more horses, you may want a three-horse (or larger) with more tack space. Keep in mind that bigger trailers will often require a bigger (and more expensive) truck.

Selecting Horse Trailer Details

With size figured out, it’s time to start wading through the specifics. Factors such as hitch type, body type, and load style are all variable, and often dependent on individual preferences for both horse and human.

Hitch: Most horse trailers connect to your vehicle via either a hitch on the vehicle frame (a bumper pull) or a hitch in the bed of a pickup truck (gooseneck). If you decided to choose a trailer that will haul three or more horses, you may not have a choice, as most larger trailers are all goosenecks. If you’ve opted for a two-horse trailer, you’ll have more bumper pull options.

Bumper pulls tend to be smaller, more affordable, and can be hauled safely by smaller trucks or full-sized SUVs. They’re also more versatile if you already carry a truck camper or plan to use the bed of your pickup even when hauling your horse. Goosenecks, on the other hand, are larger and heavier, but also more stable and, despite their size, often easier to drive.

Stock vs. Enclosed Trailer: It’s important to consider various styles when selecting a horse trailer. Preference for stock versus horse-specific trailers is often dictated by familiarity, but also by where and how you’ll use the trailer. Livestock trailers tend to be basic, with open-slatted sides where windows would be on a horse trailer, and few bells and whistles. If you think you may need the flexibility of hauling a variety of animals, this will be the best option by default. But, if you only plan to haul horses, there’s more to consider.

Both stock and horse trailers can have good airflow—check for roof venting and windows that open in the latter. But, because their sides are partially open and insulation tends to be limited to non-existent, it is more difficult to regulate overall temperature in stock trailers. Furthermore, the screenless open slats increase the risk of road debris hitting your horse.

Load Position: Slant load or straight load? Everybody seems to have an opinion when it comes to load position, but there is little safety data to point to one over the other. Rather, as with most trailer features, this will come down to your and your horse’s needs.

Slant-loads make better use of the floor space, allowing you to haul more animals on a shorter wheelbase. This means the horse trailer can be easier to tow. They also tend to appear open, which is friendlier to anxious minds, and many horses are able to turn around and walk out, as opposed to backing out of a straight-load setup.

Since horses ride side-by-side in straight-load horse trailers, individual animals are easy to access and unload. They also let the horses balance on their front and rear legs during travel, which can be beneficial over long hauls.

Whichever load style you choose, dividers are useful for keeping multiple horses separate. If you only plan to haul one animal, you may want to remove dividers so they can ride in a box stall. Given a choice, most horses will turn around and ride facing backward, which is likely due to easier balancing in this position.

Steel vs. Aluminum: Most horse trailers are made of either steel or aluminum. Each material comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. Steel trailers, while strong, affordable, and easy to repair, are often heavy and more prone to rust. Aluminum trailers, on the other hand, are far lighter and can accommodate a heavier load. Although they don’t usually rust, aluminum trailers can corrode.

Ramp or Step-Up: The decision to get a ramp or step-up trailer is once again a personal one when choosing a horse trailer. Ramps can reduce the likelihood that a horse skins a leg while loading or unloading—hence their popularity among performance horses—but not all animals are comfortable walking on them.

Some horses dislike stepping up into or out of the horse trailer, especially if they are unloading backward. If you have a strong preference, most horses can learn to be comfortable with both; but, if you’re on the fence, let your horse’s preference be your guide.

Bonuses

Once you’ve decided on the type of horse trailer you want, it’s time to think about the range of features that can add comfort and convenience.

Tack Room: First, ask yourself whether you want a tack room and, if so, how you will use it. Will it be your primary storage area, even at home, or will you only use it on the road?

Tack rooms come in a variety of configurations and sizes; some even include a built-in water tank. If your chosen trailer has a rear tack room (fairly common in slant trailers), make sure it swings out to offer plenty of room for your horse to load and unload.

Lighting: In addition to legally required brake lights, tail lights, turn signals, and running lights, consider whether you need internal lighting for nighttime hauling and external lights, which are useful for tacking up or loading and unloading in the dark.

Sleeping Area: Whether you’re looking to save money on hotel stays at competitions or want a setup-free alternative at campgrounds, a horse trailer with sleeping quarters can be a worthwhile investment. And they are available in a variety of versions, from simple spaces for a cot and sleeping bag to a camper with all the essentials plus luxuries for longer stays.

Used or New?

A pre-owned horse trailer can be a great purchase for first-timers who don’t quite know what they’re looking for. But, if you’re buying used, it’s essential to check that the brakes, lights, flooring, hitch, and frame are all in good condition.

Your best bet is to take it for a “vet check” with a professional trailer mechanic.

Horsepower

Even the best horse trailer is no good without a vehicle to haul it. If you already have a truck, use this as your starting point for trailer shopping, or make sure to verify that it has the towing capacity to safely pull your trailer, horses, and gear.

If you don’t have a vehicle yet, keep in mind that bigger horse trailers will require a burlier vehicle. While some small trailers can be pulled by a full-sized SUV, most will require a truck.

This article about selecting a horse trailer appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

If getting in the trailer isn’t your horse’s favorite activity, making sure that you know where to be can ensure that he’ll step in with ease. When you’re aware of your body position and your horse’s behavior, you’ll be able to identify potential problems and tackle them before they escalate. Read on to learn more about the Julie Goodnight method for trailer loading.

Trailer Loading: Body Language Mistakes

If your horse fights you when the trailer is in view, evaluate your body language and notice what behaviors you may be allowing from your horse. Make sure to avoid the most common problem I see horse owners make: allowing the horse to look away and then turn away from the trailer.

Once you present your horse to the open trailer and walk forward, inviting him to walk in, he should only look and move forward. If you allow him to turn around, you reward his refusal. I’ve seen many horse owners circle their horses around and approach the trailer a second, third and fourth time.

Each time you allow your horse to turn away, you reinforce that looking away and turning away is an option. Only forward motion and looking ahead is allowed.

The other common mistake I see is people who ask the horse to move forward into the trailer but then stand in the doorway and block his ability to move forward. Your horse knows that he isn’t supposed to jump on top of you. If you’re in the way, he doesn’t think that it’s right to go in.

Trailer Loading: The Right Way

What should you do if your horse won’t load up? First, make sure your body language is confident. Lead your horse to the trailer with your arms out so that your hands are in front of the horse and you are gesturing and guiding him forward. You may need to think of straightening your elbows to make sure that you’re not pulling back at all. Make sure your eyes are looking right into the trailer, conveying to your horse that you intend to walk forward and expect him to move with you.

If you know your horse is guilty of looking away, circling, or throwing a fit, prepare for your trailer training session. Outfit your horse in a rope halter and long lead, and make sure you put on gloves.

Safety Note: Never load a horse into a trailer that is not hooked securely to a vehicle, even if you’re only practicing loading. The weight and movement of the horse can easily cause the trailer to move or fall off its chocks.

Rule out escape by correcting your horse for looking around. If he looks away, bump the lead line to turn his nose back toward the trailer so that it stays directly in front of his chest. Always direct your horse’s attention back to the trailer.

You’ll also need to ask a friend to help by holding a training flag behind your horse. If your horse starts to back up, your friend will wave the flag vigorously (in the air, not touching the horse) to apply mental pressure. Your helper should stop waving the instant your horse stops or moves forward.

You’ll make the trailer the safe and easy destination—and moving backward will prove worrisome, but not painful. (Note: Using ropes and whips on the horse’s hindquarters only makes the horse concerned about his rear end; the process doesn’t make him focus on going forward.) You want to reward forward motion by stopping all pressure and allowing the horse to think about moving into the trailer.

Using the flag correctly takes great concentration and impeccable timing. If your timing is off by a second, your horse may not associate the flag’s start and stop with his behavior.

If you’re the one holding the flag, your only job is to stop the horse from backing up. You must watch his feet very closely. Flag vigorously the instant he starts to move back, and stop flagging the instant he moves forward.

The person handling the horse has the job of controlling his nose to stop it from turning right or left. It’s not an easy job and takes a lot of focus. The instant the horse turns his nose to the side, there must be a correction: bumping the lead line to move his nose back to point at the trailer.

As long as the horse is not trying to turn right or left or back up, he can be allowed to stand there and think. I want him to come to the conclusion that his best option is to walk into the trailer.

It’s much better to practice trailer loading when you don’t have to go anywhere. Horses are very good at sensing when you’re in a hurry or are desperate for them to get in. When your horse knows that you’ve got all day, he’s far more likely to give up and get in.

Once he’s had a good training session and is loading well, I may feed him in the trailer twice a day for a week. He’ll come to think of the trailer as a happy place.

Unloading

Some horses may be harder to get out of the trailer than they were to get in—especially if they have to back out. Keep in mind that there is no place in nature where a horse would back down a step.

If you can borrow a trailer that allows you to do so, I advise letting horses walk forward out of a trailer when they’re first learning to load. They will understand the process and where they are.

After a horse is comfortable walking forward out of the trailer, I’ll back him up a few steps in the trailer, then turn him and allow him to walk out forward. I’ll continue to add more and more backing steps until we reach the edge of the trailer.

Work on your in-hand backing skills ahead of time on a level surface away from the trailer. Make sure that your horse will back up one step at a time on your command. Say “back,” then tug backward on the lead line so your horse knows the cue.

Next, practice backing up while your horse is in the trailer. It may take a while, so be patient. If you wait the horse out and convince him that backing out is the only way out, he’ll eventually give it a try.

He may step down then jump back in, so be prepared and stay out of the way. With lots of praise, understanding and patience, he’ll figure it out.

Trailer Tying

Never tie your horse inside the trailer until the divider or door is shut and he’s safely enclosed. If you tie before the door is shut, your horse may panic and pull back on the rope. He could get his hind legs out and under the trailer while his head is still tied. This can result in horrible injuries.

Likewise, untie the horses before opening any doors. Most horses are eager to get out of the trailer and they know the sound of the door opening. In a straight-load trailer, make sure the butt bar is down before opening the door. If the horse panics to get out, you don’t want him to get under the bar. Open any door slowly and close it immediately if it appears the horse is going to panic to get out.

I like to tie and untie my horse without getting into the same compartment that the horse is in. The best scenario is if I can reach into the trailer and untie the rope from outside the window.

If you use trailer ties, make sure the quick release is on the tie end, not at the horse’s head. If I need to release it in an emergency, I’d like the lead to be on the horse instead of attached to the trailer.

I always tie while trailering because it’s not hard for an untied horse (or a horse tied too long) to turn his head around and then not be able to turn back. The rope should be at a length so that the horse can hold his head in a relaxed, wither-height position, but no looser.

This article about Julie Goodnight Trailer Loading originally appeared in the July 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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