Ensure your horse stays healthy all season long by using common sense and avoiding these Top 10 winter horsekeeping mistakes:

1. 1. Letting his water freeze over.

      The first horsekeeping winter mistake that horse owners make is letting their horse’s water freeze over. A horse will not stay properly hydrated if his water is frozen. Snow and ice are no substitute for clean, unfrozen drinking water. Your horse’s risk of impaction colic is greatly increased if he doesn’t have access to unfrozen water at all times. If you live in a region that experiences below-freezing temperatures, invest in a heating device specifically designed for horse waterers and troughs.

   2. Not increasing feed rations when temperatures dip.

      Talk to your veterinarian about how much feed your horse should receive during the winter months. As the temperatures drop, your horse burns more calories to stay warm. For some horses, this means considerable weight loss. If your horse isn’t on a calorie-restricted diet, consider increasing his hay rations as it gets colder outside. Forage (hay) provides an excellent source of calories. Also, the process of digesting fiber (most hays are high in fiber) helps keep a horse warmer.

   3. No exercise.

      The next horsekeeping winter mistake that horse owners make is no exercising their horses. Just like we humans, horses need exercise all year long, even when it’s cold outside! If possible, continue riding through the winter months. If severe conditions make winter riding impossible, turn your horse out daily in a large pasture or paddock daily; if it’s safe to do so, consider longeing him to keep him fit.

   4. Overriding an out of shape horse.

      If you only ride when the weather is good, chances are you won’t be doing much saddling up if you live in a cold winter region. That’s ok if you do other things to keep your horse fit, but if he’s a stable potato most of the season, use caution: An out-of-shape horse is at a much greater risk of musculoskeletal injury if exercised hard. If your winter riding schedule is sporadic, based on weather conditions, stick to lighter workouts that won’t over task your horse. Gradually increase his exercise level as his fitness improves.

   5. Sequestering a horse indoors.

      Horses will stay healthier and fitter if left outdoors for the winter, with a few caveats: All horses must have shelter from the elements. A three-sided shelter with a roof is a must. If you do bring your horse indoors, try to leave him out during the day and only bring him in at night. And don’t close your barn up! Instead, leave it open to ensure good airflow inside; a closed-up barn leads to poor air quality that can affect a horse’s respiratory health.

   6. Over blanketing.

      When it’s snowing outside and you’re inside enjoying a warm dinner by the fire, it’s hard not to feel sorry for your horse. To ease the guilt, you may be tempted to rush out and pile yet another blanket on him. Stop yourself right there! Yes, a horse with a full or partial body clip does need blanketing during winter, regardless of whether he’s kept indoors or out. But a horse with his natural winter coat probably doesn’t need blanketing as long as he has shelter from the elements, is receiving proper nutrition and is in good health. Over blanketing a horse can cause him to overheat, which can lead to dehydration and a host of health problems. If you are concerned about your horse’s comfort during winter, talk to your veterinarian about it.

   7. Lack of hoof care.

      The next horsekeeping winter mistake that horse owners make is the lack of hoof care. Nothing irks a good farrier more than an owner who insists on foregoing hoof care during the winter months. Horses—barefoot or shod, ridden or not—need regular farrier care every six to eight weeks, maybe even more often, regardless of the season. Period, the end!

   8. No beauty treatment.

      Even if you don’t ride during the winter, groom your horse regularly—daily if possible. Regular grooming and handling provides the opportunity to evaluate your horse and alerts you to problems such as illness, injury, weight loss, lost shoe, cracked hooves, et cetera. It’s up to us, as owners, to intervene as quickly as possible when something is wrong. Catching a problem early on helps put your horse back on the track to good health.

   9. Throwing him out to pasture and forgetting about him.

      There’s an old cowboy adage out there, “no rest for the horseman.” Yes, the holidays are upon us, and yes it’s darn cold outside, but you still have to keep up on your daily horsekeeping chores. Even if your horses are in pasture, you still have lots of work to do! Watering, feeding, grooming, exercising—get busy.

   10. Neglecting your own health.

       The tenth horsekeeping winter mistake that horse owners make is neglecting your own health. Most of us are responsible horse people who put equine health in front of our own. But remember, if you’re not healthy, you won’t be able to care for your horse. When tending to your horsekeeping tasks this winter, stay warm, stay safe and stay healthy because there’s someone counting on you every day.

Further Reading

The Big Chill

Horse Warmth in Winter

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Assuming he is in good health, has appropriate shelter from wind and rain, is not clipped, receives free-choice high-quality forage and has access to clean water that is never frozen, he probably doesn’t need a blanket, says Dr. Benjamin Darien, DVM, University of Wisconsin-Madison, School of Veterinary Medicine.

But Dr. Darien advises that human intervention—clipping, life under barn lights (light inhibits coat growth), and diets that don’t allow for continual chewing and digestion to keep core body temperature up—can mandate blanketing even for healthy horses.

Dr. Darien suggests these general “what to wear” guidelines for healthy horses whose lifestyles might require a little extra warmth.

This article was originally published in the October 2005 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

Back to Blanket Central >>

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But Japan has a very long history with horses that dates back centuries. And through concerted preservation efforts, horses native to Japan still survive on the islands.

Gaining insight into these native equines isn’t easy, so we looked to some overseas help by contacting Teruaki Tozaki, Ph.D., Department of Molecular Genetics, The Laboratory of Racing Chemistry in Japan. Tozaki is the author of the recently published paper in Japan, “Development of Japanese Native Horses,” and a researcher who studies his country’s native equines. Tozaki is also an avid equestrian, and with his assistance we learn about why the horses of Japan are so special.

**For the full article, pick up the October 2007 issue of HORSE ILLUSTRATED.**

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“From my research, I’m convinced that pressure on the palate is one of the main causes of bitting problems. Some of the new bit designs seem better in this regard. Both the Herm. Sprenger KK Ultra and Myler’s Comfort Snaffle present a smoothly rounded surface to the palate, whereas single-jointed snaffles have the angles of the joint pointed toward the palate in their normal position,” Dr. Clayton says. “Signs of pressure include the typical bit resistances, such as tossing the head, reluctance to accept the action of the bit, et cetera.” Dr. Clayton also thinks some horses lean on the bit to relieve palate pressure. “Leaning tends to cause the bit to be embedded more deeply into the tongue, so it moves away from the palate.” She says some horses will “partially displace their tongue over the bit to form a cushion between the bit and the palate.”

Dr. Clayton acknowledges Dr. Jane Manfreddi’s research contributions.

Back to Bit Innovations.

This article first appeared in the April 2006 Issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

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“It’s been a while since a lot of veterinarians got involved in the whole deworming issue, but the drive is really on to get more veterinarians involved again,” says Wendy Vaala, DVM, ACVIM, senior technical service veterinarian for Intervet.

Researchers from major drug companies are pressing vets to get involved with their clients’ deworming programs, and for good reason. Many horse owners think that regular deworming effectively controls internal parasites in their animals, but this may not be the case. Few horse owners have a clue about what types of parasites their horses harbor, and whether the dewormers they’re using are effective against them.

“Horse owners may be deworming with a product that isn’t effective,” says Hoyt Cheramie, DVM, ACVS, manager, Merial Equine Professional Services. “They don’t know what’s working and what’s not.” These are the issues that worry researchers, so they offer the following advice:

1. Veterinary Expertise and Fecal Egg Count Reduction Tests
Just because you deworm your horse — and he’s shiny and in good weight — doesn’t mean he isn’t full of worms. “The only way to truly determine whether deworming products are working is to conduct fecal egg count reduction tests,” Cheramie says.

The fecal egg count reduction test (FECRT) is a simple, two-step process that involves your veterinarian: A first test analyzes the number of eggs from a horse’s fresh manure sample before deworming; a second test, conducted about 10 days after deworming, analyzes the number of eggs in a new manure sample from the same horse. Ideally, FECRTs are performed before and after deworming with a product from each of the three chemical classes (see chemical classes chart).

In a perfect world, FECRTs would be run on each individual horse at a given farm, although that’s not always practical, especially if you board at a large facility. In these situations, most researchers agree that testing just a few adult horses and foals on each farm provides enough information to determine which parasites are most problematic in the resident herd.

While a FECRT can reveal a lot, it is an imperfect diagnostic tool. Researchers are discussing the limitations of FECRTs, but currently the experts agree these tests are the best measuring sticks available today and are important first steps in any good deworming program. Horse owners should note that FECRTs aren’t reliable for detecting tapeworms, so the current protocol is a twice-yearly deworming (spring and fall) with a product labeled for tapeworm treatment.

2.Target the Parasites That Are on Your Farm
Once results are in from FECRTs, your veterinarian can help you develop an effective deworming program based on the types of parasites found on your farm.

Once a schedule is established, it’s important to stick with it. “Being six weeks late on a scheduled deworming can be just as bad as skipping it,” says Tom Kennedy, Ph.D., senior vice president, Central Life Sciences New Products Development.

The seasons and the region of the country factor into the types of parasites found on your farm. Kennedy provides a scenario: “If it’s late fall and you’ve had bot flies on your horses all summer, it doesn’t do you much good to use one of the pyrantels or benzimidazoles for your late fall deworming — you need a macrocyclic lactone to knock the bots out of his stomach.”

Use the weather to your advantage when it comes to deworming. If FECRTs confirm that your horse has some built-in immunity to parasites, and you live in a dry, arid region, then summer is a good time to decrease your deworming.

“Deworm going into summer, then wait until fall when the weather starts cooling down to treat again,” Vaala recommends. Even in cold regions, weather can work to your advantage, especially for those horses with naturally low egg counts. “If you’ve got a foot and a half of snow up in the North, those parasite eggs may not be dead under all that snow, but your horse isn’t going to get down to eat them,” Vaala says. “You don’t have to deworm at the same frequency as when you’ve got optimal conditions for parasite reproduction and transmission, which is spring and fall in most places.”

In addition to region and seasons, Kennedy also says “it’s a farm-by-farm basis.” You can have two 20-acre farms in the same county with the same number of horses on each, but different management practices — manure management, pasture irrigation, number of horses turned out together, age of horses, et cetera — may cause the two farms to have completely different parasite profiles.

3. Horsekeeping Practices
There’s more to parasite control than just dewormers. Your horsekeeping practices help dictate what parasites are on your farm.
Horses shed parasite eggs in their manure. Regular and diligent manure removal goes a long way toward naturally reducing parasite populations on a farm. “Manure management does as much as anything to decrease parasite transmission,” Vaala says.

In addition to removing manure from corrals and paddocks, Vaala reminds owners that if they harrow their pastures or spread manure on pastures, it should be done when the weather is really hot and dry. “Hot, dry weather is the most detrimental to parasites,” she says. Low humidity combined with high temperatures that exceed 90 degrees will kill parasite eggs, the exception being ascarids (roundworms). “Spring and fall are the worst times of year because temperatures are optimal for parasites,” Vaala says.

Also, farms with high horse turnover — new horses coming and going — have a greater parasite management problem. New horses potentially carry parasites that might not currently exist on a farm. This puts all horses in the herd at risk for becoming infected.

Vaala says that zeroing in on newcomers can significantly reduce parasite threats. “When you quarantine a new horse, do a fecal egg count reduction test,” Vaala says. If the counts are moderate to high after the first phase of the FECRT, Vaala recommends dosing with ivermectin, moxidectin or Panacur PowerPac. Hopefully the second phase of the FECRT shows a significant reduction in eggs, and the horse can be released into the herd. If there isn’t measured reduction, then treatment with a second chemical, under veterinary guidance, might be warranted before the horse is released into the herd.

4. Age Considerations
Deworming strategies should be adjusted throughout a horse’s life cycle. For example, foals and senior horses are most susceptible to certain parasites. While small strongyles and possibly tapeworms are the biggest concern for senior — and adult — horses, ascarids are most problematic for foals. Deworming protocols for youngsters generally call for more frequent dewormings to control ascarids, but strategies typically change by the time a horse reaches his second birthday, as he develops a natural immunity to the parasite. (Most horses develop age-related immunity to ascarids, although there are now some reports of ascarids in adults.)

According to Vaala, ascarids are difficult parasites because they are so hardy. “The eggs can persist for up to 10 years on a pasture. They’ll survive heat, they’ll survive freezing.” This is particularly problematic on breeding farms. “It’s not an easy fix,” she says.
FECRTs should be run on horses during different life stages to determine their parasite loads and unique deworming requirements.

5. Capitalize on Built-in Immunity
Some horses do have a natural immunity to internal parasites. FECRTs might reveal that deworming three times a year is effective for these horses, whereas other herd members might need more frequent treatments because they carry a higher parasite load. The old adage that 20 percent of horses carry 80 percent of the parasites is still a generally accepted rule among researchers. And the 20 percent group is “shedding” (passing through their manure) most of the parasite eggs on your farm. The other herd members are infected when they ingest the parasite eggs during grazing.

“There are certain horses that are contaminates,” Cheramine says. “If you can figure out which horses those are by doing FECRTs, then you can target those horses.”

Vaala agrees and says that if you can divide horses on a farm into low shedders, medium shedders and high shedders, then you can strategically treat each group differently.

What’s the harm in deworming the entire herd at the same time in the same way? The horses with a natural immunity to parasites are treated too frequently with drugs they don’t need, which increases their risk of resistance. And the horses that really need deworming (the high shedders) may not be getting treated enough.

6. Resistant Parasites
“Resistance is becoming an ever-increasing problem in the sense that no one drug is going to solve the problem on any one farm,” Vaala says. “It’s been slow to gain recognition, but horse owners really need to be aware of the problem. If owners have not been involving their veterinarians in doing fecal exams and reviewing deworming strategies, they very easily may have an ineffective program.”

“The more you expose a parasite to any drug, the greater chance you have of developing resistance,” Cheramie says.
To help prevent drug resistance, researchers agree that based on FECRT results, horse owners should stretch out the period of time between deworming for horses that don’t carry high parasite loads.

“We only have so many drugs to play with,” Vaala says. “Use as few drugs as possible to get the job done.”

7. Rotation Isn’t Carved in Stone
Effective deworming has nothing to do with how many times per year you deworm. “Many horse owners think that by rotating products every eight to 10 weeks, everything is OK,” says Vaala. “That’s a misconception. You probably do need to use different products, but which products for which horses is what it comes down to right now. The best strategy begins with doing fecals [FECRTs] on all horses.”

“Make sure that what you rotate with is effective for your horse,” Cheramie says. Once FECRT results are in, your veterinarian will recommend a deworming strategy that may include rotation. There are three chemical classes of dewormers available today: macrocyclic lactone, pyrimidine and benzimidazole. All of these chemical classes contain several drugs within them, but researchers agree that rotating between drugs in a class is not effective rotation. Instead, rotation involves rotating between chemical classes as dictated by FECRTs and your veterinarian.

A fourth drug, praziquantel, doesn’t fall into any of the above chemical classes. It was introduced a few years ago to treat tapeworms and is typically combined with a drug from the macrocyclic lactone class.

8. Follow Dosage Directions
Correct dosing with the appropriate dewormers is critical. Not only do you want to stick to a schedule and product recommendations made by your veterinarian, it’s important to follow the dosing directions found on the label, which are based on your horse’s weight.
“Most people do a very poor job of getting a full dose of dewormer into the horse,” Kennedy says. If your horse spits out his dewormer or you accidentally miss the target, you’re underdosing him.

Vaala also reminds owners to have a good estimation of what their horses weigh. She explains that underdosing gives parasites a chance to survive and build resistance. Ask your veterinarian for guidance on dosing based on your horse’s weight. Large draft horses and oversized warmbloods might need additional dosing, since many dewormers only dose up to 1,200 pounds. Small horses and ponies might require less than a full tube.

Download a reference chart of dewormer chemical classes.

Download a chart to keep track of your horse’s deworming schedule.

Toni McAllister is a horse owner from Southern California and a contributing editor to Horse Illustrated.

The post New Thinking on Deworming appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Many veterinarians advise rotating different deworming “chemical classes” during different times of the year. There are three classes of dewormers available today: macrocyclic lactone, pyrimidine and benzimidazole. All of these contain several drugs within them. Additionally, there is a drug called praziquantel that doesn’t fall into any of the above classes. It was introduced a few years ago to treat tapeworms and is typically combined with a drug from the macrocyclic lactone class.

Your veterinarian can advise you on which chemical classes and which drugs to use, and when to use them. Remember that different product names don’t necessarily mean different chemicals. There are many products that contain the same active ingredients. If your veterinarian recommends rotating between the different classes, it’s important that you follow the program to ensure the best protection against parasites for your horse.

The downloadable chart provides a breakdown of the many equine dewormers on the market today. Each product is broken down by chemical class, drug (active ingredient) and manufacturer. Keep this chart handy when talking to your veterinarian about your horse’s deworming program.

Print out a chart to keep track of your horse’s deworming schedule.

Back to New Thinking on Deworming.

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Paso Finos, Andalusians, Lusitanos, Peruvian Horses, Aztecas, Mangalarga Marchadors and other Spanish-bred horses step high and bring enthralled Angelenos to their feet each year during the one-of-a-kind “Fiesta of the Spanish Horse.” There’s good reason for the hoopla—the “Fiesta of the Spanish Horse” is a four-day event held each spring that features multi-breed competitions. But after the competition simmers down, the real fun begins: The event culminates in an evening performance that celebrates the heritage of the Spanish horse and its travels from Spain and Portugal, through South American, into Mexico and finally into California. The “Fiesta of the Spanish Horse” evening performance includes Ballet de Mexico Aztec Folklorico Dancers, breed specific exhibitions, drill teams, and even a “Champagne Challenge” that highlights just how easy it is to “sip and ride” one of the many smooth-gaited Spanish breeds.

The evening performance also features a “Parade of Cancer Survivors,” which is the heart of the “Fiesta of the Spanish Horse.” Each year, proceeds from the event go to benefit cancer research. During the Parade, cancer survivors ride their beloved Spanish mounts while the audience erupts in thunderous applause and a standing ovation.

Along with competition and spectacular performances—all to benefit a good cause—there’s plenty of ethnic food to sample and a variety of vendors selling authentic Spanish tack and equipment.

An event not to be missed, “The Fiesta of the Spanish Horse” plays an important role in integrating communities by honoring horses and people steeped in rich tradition.

In 2007, “Fiesta of the Spanish Horse” runs May 3-6 at the Los Angeles Equestrian Center, in Burbank, Calif. For more information, visit www.fiestaspanishhorse.com.

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It’s Academic
Many of the discipline-specific organizations in this country, such as the United States Dressage Federation’s Instructor Certification Program and the United States Eventing Association’s Instructor Certification Program, offer rigorous certification systems involving study, workshops and mentoring designed to further educate riding instructors.

The well-respected Kentucky-based United States Pony Clubs Inc. offers a system that develops young riders through nine stages of the progressive Standards of Proficiency, which evaluate knowledge and riding ability. Pony Clubbers who reach advanced skill levels within the organization earn internationally recognized credentials. In addition, the Pony Club assists their regional clubs with planning instruction programs by providing lesson plans, study guides and other tools designed to promote overall good horsemanship.

Some accredited universities have four-year programs that prepare students for careers in riding instruction, including Lake Erie College in Ohio, which offers a bachelor of science in equestrian teacher/trainer. Educational programs that certify qualified instructors after they reach a certain competence level are available through top clinicians such as John Lyons or Pat Parelli. Riding instructor certification programs are also offered through organizations such as the Certified Horsemanship Association in Kentucky and the Florida-based American Riding Instructors Association. Years of riding experience at the high levels can also prepare someone for a teaching career, as long as they also possess professionalism, communication skills and all-around horsemanship abilities.

Mary Pardee teaches equine studies at Lake Erie College. She has 24 years of experience as a trainer and instructor, specializing in hunters and equitation. Pardee sees education and certification programs for riding instructors as a positive step toward increasing the number of qualified teachers in this country.

“I feel the industry is looking at what we’re producing and is realizing that we need to get back to the all-around horse person,” she says.

Pardee’s formative equestrian years were spent under an instructor who graduated from the British Horse Society (BHS) system, which provides a comprehensive education in horsemanship. Pardee says she was “instilled with the basic ideas and ideals of the BHS,” which include education, safety and equine welfare. She feels the system incorporates a “strong sense of duty and attention to detail, and a very strong work ethic.”

Pardee firmly believes that good horsemanship is critical to good instruction. “It’s not just about the riding,” she says. Education in horse handling, nutrition, anatomy, veterinary and farrier care, training, conditioning and barn management are just as important. So is rider safety, which includes being able to appropriately match people with horses and recognizing their limitations and weaknesses. First-aid training is also imperative.

“It’s an all-around perspective, which I think is what is essential for a successful trainer or instructor in today’s world,” Pardee explains. She says many equestrians possess some of the skills of a good riding instructor, but it’s hard to find someone who has it all.

“You can’t just be a good rider or a successful competitor,” Pardee explains. “I’ve known and seen people at top levels who are phenomenal riders, but they have a hard time explaining why they do what they do.”

Additionally, Pardee has seen some people go into business too soon. She explains that, over the years, she has watched successful junior riders come out of the ranks and set themselves up as instructors. “Some of them didn’t have the all-around background that would enable them to be a good instructor,” she says.

Certified Standards of Excellence
Along with formal education and existing certification programs, some people in the industry feel a national certification program, established under one governing body, could help address the problem of unqualified riding instruction.

The United States Equestrian Federation (USEF) may seem like the logical choice to implement a national certification program for riding instructors, but it’s not an easy task. Chuck Walker, the USEF’s assistant director of continuing education, says the USEF has no plans at this time to take on instructor certification or licensing. “There are so many breed and performance organizations that would need to be considered,” he says. “It’s a huge undertaking.”

One of the forerunners of riding instructor certification is the United States Dressage Federation (USDF). Its program has been in place for 15 years and includes workshops in longeing, riding and teaching. The final exam for certification consists of practical riding, longeing and teaching components, in addition to a verbal and written test that covers equine management and competition rules.

The Kentucky-based Certified Horsemanship Association (CHA) currently offers different levels of riding instructor certification, all of which focus on safety. CHA has partnered with several organizations to help improve the safety and quality of riding instruction in the United States, including the American Vaulting Association, the North American Riding for the Handicapped Association and the American Quarter Horse Association.

Even though CHA certifies riding instructors, Chief Executive Officer Christy Landwehr says certification isn’t her biggest worry. “I have concerns about people hanging out shingles and calling themselves instructors when they aren’t qualified to do so,” she says. “It’s very dangerous.”

Knowing that no national certification program exists in this country and that not every equestrian discipline offers an instructor certification program through its association, should riding students rule out teachers who aren’t certified?

“I wouldn’t rule out instructors in America because they don’t hold certification, but I would certainly want to know why they call themselves qualified instructors,” Pardee says.

Many trainers and instructors earned their qualification through hands-on experience. However, who they learned from contributes to the development of a quality skill set and training philosophy. Other factors that build a trainer’s résumé include competitive achievement, years of riding at a high level, and years as an equine professional. The success of current and former students speak to an instructor’s competence. Participation in horse sport or breed organizations and the local equestrian community, as well as judging credentials also demonstrate a level of involvement and knowledge.

Taking Responsibility
Originally from Utah, Chelsea Olsen, 24, graduated from the Lake Erie College’s Equestrian Teacher/Trainer program in 2007 and continues as a working student there while she pursues her MBA. She believes a well-rounded education is imperative for riding instructors, but she says that riders need to be proactive, too.

“Clients need to become more involved in their education by seeking out qualified instructors,” Olsen advises. She says by furthering your own equine education, which includes immersing yourself in equestrian-related books, videos and publications, you can make better decisions about choosing a good riding instructor (See sidebar page 36, “Tips for Finding a Good Riding Instructor”).

Riding instruction is a huge responsibility for those who make it a career. As more and more education and certification programs are established, it is hoped that unqualified instructors currently in the business enroll in these programs and get more experience. “It is an awesome responsibility that we need to really pay careful attention to,” Pardee says. “We’re responsible for our students’ happiness, safety and learning experience.”

Further Reading
International Riding Instructor Certification
Question of the Week: Riding Instructor Certification

Toni McAllister is a horse owner based in Southern California and a contributing editor to Horse Illustrated.

This article originally appeared in the February 2008 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

The post Teaching Credentials appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Top Two Pests
“Flies can become a problem whenever the air temperature is much above 50 degrees F,” says Roger Moon, professor of veterinary entomology at the Department of Entomology, University of Minnesota, St. Paul. The types of flies that invade our lives, however, can vary from one region to the next, and as one might expect, there’s a cornucopia of fly life out there. But some species are more pervasive at horse facilities.

According to Dr. Moon, “The two most common types of flies around stabled horses are the stable fly and the house fly. I call these two types ‘filth flies’ because they breed in filthy habitats. These two flies develop as maggots in rotting organic matter of some kind or another.” In other words, filth flies thrive in muck-rich environments.

Both of these fly types are annoying, but they bother our horses in different ways. “House flies don’t bite,” Dr. Moon explains. “We don’t think of house flies as important vectors of equine pathogens, but they are a nuisance.”

House flies are guilty, however, of transmitting an equine malady familiar to horse owners: summer sores (cutaneous habronemiasis). While summer sores are actually caused by stomach worms, filth flies are the ticket to ride for these parasites. Flies deposit stomach worm larvae onto prime feeding areas on the horse’s body: existing open sores. The larvae take up residence in these areas, leaving the horse with those oozing, expanding sores. The host fly can also deposit the stomach worm “goods” in a horse’s eyes. In these cases, conjunctivitis can set in. Since mucous membranes, including a horse’s lips, are feeding areas for house flies, stomach worms are easily ingested by horses as well. Deworming with ivermectin-based products help control these hitchhiking stomach worm larvae.

Unlike the house fly, the stable fly is a bloodsucker. “If I were to strike up a conversation with horse owners, it would be about stable flies,” Dr. Moon says. “The stable fly bites and clearly torments our horses.”

Although the stable fly causes great discomfort in our horses, its ability to spread disease from one sick horse to another via a bite isn’t as great as some of its bigger relatives that have larger mouthparts, hence larger weapons with which to carry infective agents. But any biting fly, including the stable fly, has the potential to spread disease.

“Flies are like dirty needles,” Dr. Moon explains. When a fly bites a horse infected with disease, the fly’s mouthparts become contaminated. Disease can spread from horse to horse when the fly searches out his next meal. “We think that with the larger horse flies and deer flies, the risk is greater,” Dr. Moon continues. He defines the difference between the bite of a small fly compared to the buzzing Hummer-sized variety: “A small-gauge needle versus a dagger.”

Cutting down the filth fly population is a matter of good horsekeeping. “The basic remedies are to start with debris management,” Dr. Moon explains. He recommends manure and soiled bedding get removed—and hauled well away from horses—on a daily basis. Also, if grain or hay is spilled and gets wet, it can breed flies, so removal of this waste, along with manure and soiled bedding, is important.

Once you haul the muck away, however, your job isn’t done. According to Dr. Moon, “If you pile [muck] in one place, a little bit of rain makes for maggot heaven.” Getting that manure pile actively composting—cooking above 140 degrees F—is the best way to stop filth flies from taking up residence. If you prefer to spread manure and bedding, “spread it thinly, less than 1?2 inch,” Dr. Moon offers.

There are many products on the market that can be used to help protect your horse from filth flies, but there is no substitute for good sanitation. Additional strategies can include regular application of permethrin-based fly repellents for use on horses, premise sprays that are safe for use around horses, fly traps and baits, and to combat against house flies, protective fly wear for horses is useful. Daily feed-through fly control products for horses are now available, designed exclusively to halt development of house and stable fly larvae in fresh horse feces. According to Dr. Moon, the effectiveness of any of these additional fly control strategies depends on our ability to reduce the amount of fly-producing rotting debris on the premises.

Parasitic wasps are another option for helping to control filth flies. These small, non-stinging, gnat-sized wasps are harmless to humans and horses, but very disruptive to house and stable fly populations. Parasitic wasps control annoying filth flies by, well, eating them. The wasps insert their eggs into pest fly pupae—the wasp larvae then feed inside the fly pupa and eventually kill it, which means fewer adult flies.

Small But Mighty
Unlike filth flies, small aquatic biting flies, such as black flies and biting midges (often called no-see-ums, biting gnats or punkies) aren’t so easy to control. “Source control is impossible with these insects because they’re usually coming from wetlands,” Dr. Moon says. “In the case of black flies, they’re coming from flowing water—streams, creeks, rivers—and flying several miles from those sources.”

Of the small aquatic biting flies, biting midges really trouble our horses. “Their saliva seems particularly allergenic,” Dr. Moon says. “It creates a summer itch that can be problematic.” This dermatitis is also called Queensland itch or sweet itch. Biting midges are also hosts for neck threadworms (Onchocerca cervicalis), a nasty parasite that causes a dermatitis similar to sweet itch, although not quite as intense. Neck threadworm infection can be controlled with dewormers designed to combat these parasites.

Permethrin-based repellents, as well as petroleum jelly applied to susceptible areas, can help deter biting midges. “Petroleum jelly prevents further biting and helps the skin to heal,” Dr. Moon says, “but the best thing owners can do is avoid biting midges altogether.”

Biting midges attack at night, so bringing horses in before dusk avoids the onslaught. But if you use this strategy, keep in mind that biting midges will migrate indoors and can make their way right through regular screens. If you’re going to try to protect your horse by hiding him inside, consider screening the barn with fine, no-see-um mesh netting. Barn fans are also useful at keeping winged insects at bay, including biting midges.

“Of course animals that are paddocked outdoors are fully exposed to biting flies,” Dr. Moon says. If a horse can’t be protected indoors, then permethrin-based fly spray is your best alternative.

Unlike biting midges, black flies are daytime feeders. These insects are aggressive, and there have been reports of horses dying of acute toxemia caused by multiple black fly bites. Equine itchy dermatitis is also in this fly’s repertoire of misery.

“When there’s an outbreak of black flies, we urge horse owners, if they can, to keep their animals indoors. Black flies just won’t go into deeply shaded areas,” Dr. Moon says. For horses kept outdoors, fly repellents are your best bet. Petroleum jelly applied to areas of the horse that offer prime black fly feeding (ears, neck, barrel, belly, udders and prepuce) is good barrier against further destruction.

The Big Girls
Wetlands are also breeding grounds for horse flies and deer flies. “These are much bigger insects,” Dr. Moon says. “They can be anywhere from 3?8 to 2 inches long. We have many different kinds, but only the females bite and suck blood. Many of them we don’t even know where they come from.”

Permethrin-based fly repellents provide some relief from these pests. However, horse flies and deer flies won’t go indoors, so during the times of year when these flies are really bad, leave the barn door open so that horses can seek refuge. If that’s not practical, keep horses indoors during the daytime hours when these large flies are most likely to strike.

If you’ve ever been bitten by a horse or deer fly, you know how painful it can be. Horses in pasture will erupt in a frenzy from just one of these small attackers dive bombing their hides for feeding. The resulting bites often develop into welts that can take several days to clear. In some cases, the bumps don’t go away at all, and instead form granulomas (hard nodules) that may require veterinary attention.

Horse and deer flies are very efficient spreaders of disease. They have large mouthparts, hence larger weapons. Of the diseases they can transport, equine infectious anemia (EIA) is the most important. If a horse becomes infected with EIA, and horse or deer flies are in the vicinity, the risk of infection is high for other horses on the premises.

While most horses recover from EIA, they become lifelong carriers of this disease and unfortunately there is no cure. Depending on the state where you live, if your horse becomes infected with EIA, regulations may require euthanasia, lifelong quarantine in a fly-proof environment or permanent identification denoting the horse as EIA positive.

In the Company of Cows
If cattle pastures are in your neighborhood, so might be face flies and horn flies. These pests lay their eggs in cow dung, not horse manure, and once the youngsters hatch, they make a beeline for nearby equines.

While the horn fly is a bloodsucker, the face fly isn’t. Instead, the face fly feeds on a horse’s eye secretions during daytime hours, causing discomfort and the potential for disease. For example, the face fly is a courier service for eye worms (Thelezia spp.). According to Dr. Moon, “Twenty percent or so of horses have worms residing in their tear ducts. The worms are really not causing much harm to the horse that we can see, but there’s a strong ‘eesh!’ factor.” The best way to avoid face flies and the worms they transport is to use fly masks.

The horn fly is a nasty biter, and will feed on horses pastured near cows, causing an itchy equine dermatitis. Controlling these pests involves staying away from pastured cows and using repellents designed to deter biting.

All in the Family
Mosquitoes are a big branch of the fly family tree, and among its most dangerous members. West Nile virus, Eastern equine encephalomyelitis (EEE), Western equine encephalomyelitis (WEE) and Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis (VEE) are deadly diseases all transmitted by the mosquito.

Dr. Moon offers one word on preventing these diseases: “Vaccinate!” Of course there are things you can do to reduce mosquito populations on your facility.

“Mosquito larvae feed on decomposing organic material in still, shallow water. Clean water and flowing water are not a problem. On-premise mosquito control involves eliminating anything that can hold standing water for more than a week,” Dr. Moon says. “Dispose of tires and empty containers, dump standing water from kiddie pools, and clean water tanks on a regular basis. Turn over the water tank every week or two; brush and wash it out, then refill it.”

Not all mosquito species that carry disease are attracted to standing water, however, so again, vaccination is the safeguard. Various mosquito species have different feeding regimens as well, but most prefer dusk and early night snacking. “So when the sun starts to go down, bring the horses in and keep them behind mosquito screens,” Dr. Moon suggests.

Several companies manufacture mosquito repellents designed for use on horses, and premise sprays and traps are also available. If you have a small mosquito-attracting pond on your property, there are “dunks” available that kill mosquito larvae. Before employing this control tactic, however, make sure the product you choose is safe for horses, humans, fish and other friendly critters that congregate in or around your pond.

Flies in Disguise
The larvae that bot flies deposit on a horse’s body can cause him a great deal of internal damage. The adult horse bot fly, which is a non-biting, non-stinging, seemingly harmless fly that looks like a bumble bee, causes stomach bots in horses. Adult female bot flies “glue” their eggs on horse hairs, most commonly on a horse’s front legs, but also around the muzzle, and on the belly, shoulders and hind legs. Eggs hatch spontaneously without much ado, but when a horse licks his egg-infested legs or muzzle, problems begin. Bot fly larvae feed in the horse’s soft mouth tissue as well as his digestive tract. Removal of bot fly eggs from the horse before they hatch is helpful, but dewormers containing ivermectin or moxidectin can help knock out the ones that get missed. The adult flies are best controlled by repellents designed to target them.

Avoiding flies is no easy task, but the mission is not impossible. Good horsekeeping practices, including paying attention to when your horses are being attacked and then adjusting your fly prevention strategies, will maximize equine comfort and ensure good health all summer long.

Further Reading
Shoo Fly
Field Guide to Flies

This article originally appeared in the July 2006 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

The post What’s Bugging Your Horse? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Your beautiful arena won’t stay that way without ongoing upkeep, which includes an investment in some tools. Maintenance needs vary depending on factors, such as footing material, weather, daily use, type of riding and budget. Some basics do apply, however, regardless of your situation.

Base Point

A well-maintained riding arena allows your horse to perform at his peak. The best riding surfaces offer your horse just enough cushion, good traction (not too slick or uneven) and minimal dust. A good arena is located away from any run-off and is typically built with three layers of materials. The bottom layer is the “sub-base” (native soil), which has been graded and leveled (or slightly crowned for drainage), then compacted with heavy equipment. The middle layer in an arena is the 4- to 6-inch “base” made of a material that is designed to compact (crushed rock material with granules no larger than 1?4 inch is ideal). This base is rolled with heavy equipment to further compact it and follows the slope of the sub-base. If a crown is incorporated, it should be built down the center of the arena, lengthwise, sloped 1 to 2 percent on both sides. (An indoor arena shouldn’t have drainage problems, so it can be designed flat.)

The top layer of the riding arena is the footing or riding surface, which is usually sand, wood products, rubber, stonedust, or a mixture of these materials with perhaps a little topsoil, stall waste or sawdust added in. No matter what you use, the trick to maintaining your arena—and the footing that sits on top—is taking care of the base.

“A good base that is well-built should last you 10 years,” says George Chatigny, general manager of the Los Angeles Equestrian Center (LAEC). Located north of downtown Los Angeles, LAEC is the venue for many world-class equestrian events. It’s also home to many outdoor riding arenas, one fully covered stadium arena and more than 500 stalls for horses boarded at the facility.

George says that along with environment, the wrong equipment and poor maintenance will wreck your base. “An arena is only going to last a short while until you find the means to water it and drag it on a regular basis,” George explains. “As the horse goes around, the footing is packing, and if you don’t get into the arena on a regular basis, then that arena will pack down.”

Dragging and Watering

Dragging an arena can be as simple as using a hand-held arena rake. But more often, some heavy equipment is needed. Arena “drags” come in many designs—simple to sophisticated—and the purpose of these tools is to move footing back to where it needs to be. Some drags can be pulled with either a pickup truck or utility vehicle; others require a tractor with a 3-point hitch.

Watering an arena can be done with nothing more than a garden hose and a sprinkler attachment, but many companies now offer arena watering systems that do the job much more efficiently. Also, some drags actually feature watering systems that let you water while dragging. The benefit of this feature is that it allows the user to tackle troublesome spots in an arena, such as unshaded areas. How much water to use depends on your environment (arid versus humid), whether your arena is indoor or outdoor, and how well you’re maintaining moisture levels on a regular basis.

In the case of LAEC, watering and dragging is done more than once a day because of the high traffic and arid conditions. A small facility, particularly a home arena used only a few times a week by a few horses, won’t need as much attention but upkeep is still required. “Drag and water your arena every day,” George recommends, even if you’re not riding in it daily. “If you have something [a drag] that penetrates the surface and doesn’t bust up the base, it will constantly keep the material from compacting, and your horses are going to find more enjoyment traveling on something that has a little bit more air, a little bit more fluffiness to it. So even a spike-tooth screen drag [that doesn’t rip the base] on the back of a bumper of a pickup truck is going to help.”

Daniel Webb, business manager at the Center for Equine and Pre-Veterinary Studies at the University of Findlay in Ohio, follows a similar protocol in order to maintain good footing in the college’s riding arenas. “We water and drag every day—twice a day when school is in session.” In addition to two indoor arenas for its students, the University of Findlay also maintains outdoor arenas.

But Daniel warns that you have to be careful not to touch the base when dragging. “You can’t go any deeper than the footing itself,” he says. Ripping into the base causes ruts and unevenness. Unfortunately, once this happens you have to strip away the footing, fix the base by leveling and flattening, and then bring the footing back in.

Another way to protect your base is to pay special attention to highly trafficked areas, such as an entry gate area that can become rutted over time. Also, mix up your riding routine so that you aren’t constantly traveling on the same line. For example, if you jump, change your course often. Also, mix up your on-the-rail, off-the-rail work, so you don’t develop a well-worn track in your arena. Another problem is when footing “collects” over time. Even though your base is intact, footing can pile up in places. To fix this problem, George recommends releveling your footing every two months using a leveling tool featured on many arena drags today.

Keeping your footing in your arena can be tricky if you don’t have solid walls around it. The University of Findlay uses block walls to keep footing in, but not everyone can afford the luxury. “The material that you paid for and want to ride on is not in the right track. Therefore you need to bring it back and redistribute it in the arena,” says LAEC’s George Chatigny. He recommends tackling this chore when you relevel.

Weather Related

During the rainy season, the maintenance crew at LAEC is on high weather alert. Before a rainstorm hits, the crew levels and smoothes the footing to help shed water, and the arenas are off limits for riding or turnout until the base and footing dry. Riding in a saturated arena is dangerous for your horse, and it tears up your base. Using an alternate safe “sacrifice” riding surface will save your arena investment. While Los Angeles’ “extreme” weather typically amounts to only the occasional downpour, other parts of the country aren’t so fortunate. At the University of Findlay, weather includes snow and ice. “We don’t use our outdoor arenas during the winter months—we stay in the indoor arenas instead.”

Carol Craig, who along with her husband Mel, owns CJ Ranch in Crown Point, Ind., says she uses her outdoor arenas most of the year. Carol, a trainer and horse show judge, holds several shows at her facility for both English and western riders. “People are surprised, but we ride outdoors nearly all winter. We do have a covered arena, but our outdoor ring holds up very well.” Carol says that even when there is snow on the ground, the footing can be rideable, as long as there’s no ice. “Our soil is a heavy clay, but we have found just the right mix of native soil and sand for our footing.” To maintain that mix, arenas at CJ Ranch are dragged daily.

If you’ve spent the time and money to design a riding arena, take the time to maintain it and it will last longer and cost less over the long run. Also, a good riding surface will help your horse stay sounder, saving you countless dollars on veterinary bills.

Further Reading
Sand for Arena Footing
Arena Maintenance

This article originally appeared in the November 2006 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

The post At-home Riding Arena Maintenance appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.