Eucerin Oil Control Sun Gel-Cream SPF 50+

When you’re on vacation, there’s little time to wait for your sunscreen to dry before you blast off to the barn or beach. This dry-touch facial sunblock for oily, acne-prone skin ensures you don’t have to delay, so dirt is less likely to stick to it. An added bonus? It’s extra water- and sweat-resistant.

Available for $19.58 on caretobeauty.com.

Blundstone Chelsea No. 550

Iconic for a reason, Blundstone boots mold to your feet and wear like iron; they’re made of durable, double-stitched leather. The Chelsea No. 550 boot offers outstanding, lightweight shock absorption. Pull tabs make sure you can get them on quickly and easily.

Available for $209.95 on blundstone.com.

Hydaway Collapsible Travel Bottle

A collapsible water bottle ensures you stay hydrated without weighing you down. Collapses to a 1.5-inch disc and holds 17 ounces of water when expanded (a 25-ounce option is also available). Dishwasher safe, it’s made of food-grade silicone and BPA-free plastic. Available in a variety of colors.

Available for $29.95 on shop.myhydaway.com.

Helmet Brims Horseback Riding Standard Brim Sun Visor

The Helmet Brims Riding Sun Visor blocks both the sun and the rain without blocking your vision. Lightweight and easy to fit onto your helmet using velcro and elastic, this visor is made with Australian shade cloth that ensures high sun protection while also being exceptionally durable and offering a bit of visibility. Various trim color options.

Available for $46.95 from ridingwarehouse.com.

Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30

Whether you’re in the rain or in the wind, Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30 is the perfect moisturizing lip balm. Offering both UVA and UVB protection, this cocoa butter-infused balm is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.

4-count available for $9.99 on amazon.com.

Body Glide Anti-Chafe Stick

Keep your thighs and backside chafe-free no matter how long you spend in the saddle with Body Glide Anti Chafe Stick. Sweat- and water-resistant, this easy-to-apply balm creates an invisible barrier to protect skin from rubbing, chafing, pinching, and other irritants.

Available from $5.49 to $16.99 on bodyglide.com.

Ariat VentTEK Stretch Shirt

Wear-tested and ready to ride, the button-front shirt offers UV protection and VentTEK side panels for air flow. Its moisture-wicking technology is designed for optimal comfort in any weather, ensuring you look good no matter how long you ride.

Available for $58.95 on ariat.com.

Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers

It’s not always your seat bones that get sore when you’re spending hours on end in the saddle. Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers reduce pressure around the pubic bones, ensuring more even weight distribution and a comfortable, safer seat. Available in western, dressage and jumping options.

Price varies by model; purchase on acavallo.com.

This article about trail and marathon riding essentials appeared in the January/February 2025  issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Trail and Marathon Riding Essentials appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“Knowing how bits should sit and fit in a horse’s mouth could help avoid serious problems and setbacks—I suggest using a bit-sizer to start,” says Alan Fisher, a champion trainer with over 20 years’ experience based in Eastover, N.C., who specializes in western pleasure prospects.

He says that riders need to learn the control points of different bits, the mechanics behind mouthpieces, and what exactly should be achieved with each type of bit.

Snaffles vs. Ported

There are two important categories of bits: ported (leverage) and snaffle (direct action).

Ported or “correction” bits come in low, medium, and high leverage levels, and feature an inverted curve, U-shape, spoon-shape, square-hinge or spade-shape at the center of the mouthpiece. These shapes provide tongue pressure relief. Western bits have shanks that connect the reins to the bit, which vary from 4 to 8 inches long.

Both English and western ported bits come with a chain or curb strap to stop the bit from harming a horse’s mouth.

Snaffle bits work by direct pressure from the ring to the rider’s hand through the rein, and either type of bit can be made from stainless steel, copper, titanium, sweet iron or aluminum. Some mild snaffles are made of plastic, rubber, leather or fabric material.

Snaffle Cheek Pieces

While ported bits always have a shank cheek, there are several common styles of cheek rings in snaffles, each with a different effect.

◆ Loose rings move with the horse’s lips, tongue and jaw by gliding through the attached mouthpiece.

◆ Full cheeks have two short bars coming off the sides, one on top and one on the bottom of the fixed mouthpiece. This bit is useful for young or inexperienced horses who need help with steering or to learn how to carry their head without tilting.

◆ D-ring and eggbutt snaffles are both fixed options that resemble the letter D or an oval-egg shape. These are less likely to move side to side in the mouth.

Snaffle Mouthpieces

As opposed to the mouthpieces described above for ported bits, snaffles have straight mouthpieces with various shapes and joints.

◆ Non-jointed snaffles have a mouthpiece that’s straight across with no breaks in the metal, rubber or plastic.

◆ Single-jointed snaffles are considered a basic, and feature a break in the bit with a joint in the middle that creates a V-shape in a horse’s mouth that puts rein pressure on the bars of the jaw and edges of the tongue.

◆ Double-jointed snaffles follow the shape of the tongue better than a single-jointed bit. They have two joints that connect the sides of the bit with a central link.

◆ Smooth snaffles are on the milder side and work well with sensitive mouths and for beginners who aren’t as gentle on a horse’s mouth.

◆ Twisted-wire snaffles are considered more severe and are commonly used for horses that tend to hang or pull on the rider’s hands, or when more control is needed, such as galloping cross-country.

◆ Roller bits have movable pieces that rotate and help a horse to relax his mouth and jaw.

Combo Action

English riders sometimes use leverage bits combined with snaffle action.

◆ Double bridles have a curb bit and chain, a snaffle bit with small loose rings called a bradoon, and two sets of reins. They are used in upper-level dressage and show jumping, as well as saddle seat riding.

◆ Pelham bits are most often found in hunter rings, on foxhunters, and on the polo field, and are designed to combine the action of a curb bit with a snaffle, like a double bridle.

This bit provides leverage on the jaw with its lower shanks and curb chain to encourage flexion at the poll and stronger brakes, while the snaffle mouthpiece gives turning control.

Pelhams are usually used with two sets of reins, although “converters” are available for beginners that switch the bit to one set of reins—but these negate much of the bit’s action.

Soft Feel

Western trainer Shawn Alter shares that nerves and being scared is why most riders have heavy hands and tend to use the bit too aggressively.

“You must take the time to practice and gain the muscle memory of going to the horse’s mouth softly, asking first, and giving him a chance to respond while softening with your fingers to create a nice flow without any yanking,” says Alter, who owns Shawn Alter Quarter Horses in New Alexander, Pa., and specializes in showing, training, selling and judging horses for local and open shows.

“To be an efficient and well-rounded rider, you’ll need to learn to ride more with your seat and legs, and have less pull on the reins.”

A Bit Reactive

“Horses often learn to be angry at the bit when they feel rushed or pushed beyond their abilities,” says all-around Quarter Horse trainer Melissa Jones, who owns Jones Performance Horses along with her husband, Chris, in Reelsville, Ind. “Horses who haven’t learned to give to the bit or choose not to give tend to turn defensive and act out.”

The more you are heavy-handed or jerk on a horse’s mouth, the more the horse will want to get away from that pressure, she says.

“Not leaning on a snaffle is important because our goal is for the horse not to lean on the bit, and holding will reinforce that.”

Releasing Pressure

Trainer Alyse Roberts says that releasing bit pressure as a reward is key for teaching a horse to self-carry correctly.

“I’d rather see a rider who releases hand pressure too soon rather than too late,” says Roberts, who owns Alyse Roberts Performance Horses located in Purcell, Okla., and specializes in all breed hunter under saddle. “Hanging on the bit defeats the purpose and can upset a horse who is trying to do his job, but the rider keeps getting in the way.”

Dental Check-Up

All-around trainer and judge Jamie Dowdy says that it’s critical to rule out physical discomfort in the mouth, which gives the impression of bit trouble.

“A yearly dental exam is needed, especially in young horses, as they can be experiencing mouth and teeth soreness due to shedding baby caps and possible wolf teeth,” says Dowdy of Hartman Farms, a Quarter Horse facility in Marshfield, Mo. “Older horses need routine dentals for preventative measures to stay ahead of any developing problems.”

Just walking into a tack store and looking at the wall of bits can seem daunting. Our bit experts all mentioned that having an experienced trainer guide the transition to a new bit is a smart way to set your horse up for steering, control and—most importantly—communication success.

This article about bits appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post All About Bits appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

2022 Fort Worth Extreme Mustang Makeover Champion and horse trainer Camille White uses groundwork as a tool to help her learn more about a horse, and shares with us one of her favorite exercises.

Using Groundwork to Build Trust

In White’s experience, groundwork is an essential part of building trust with a horse. When on the ground, you have a good read of your horse’s facial expressions and can observe how he is carrying himself. She adds that it can be helpful to see a horse’s reaction to something from the ground before observing it from the saddle.

One of her favorite get-to-know-you groundwork activities is a longeing exercise that teaches the horse how to relax and involves both sensitizing and desensitizing components. White describes “sensitizing” as getting a horse sensitive to cues and teaching him how to move his body, while “desensitizing” is teaching a horse to accept new and scary things.

She explains that many of a horse’s opinions, personality, and coping mechanisms become apparent when he is moving, making this a great exercise to help you learn how your horse thinks and what things he prefers.

“It’s a lot harder for horses to hide what they’re thinking when they’re moving, as opposed to standing still,” says White.

When teaching the exercise, White says to be clear and consistent with your horse by communicating the same way every time. By doing this, he will learn what he can and can’t expect from you, and his trust in you will grow. 

The Exercise

The following steps outline a two-part longeing exercise that White uses to get to know the horses she works with. To perform this exercise, you will need a rope halter, a 12-to-16-foot lead rope, and a flag.

Photos by Shoshana Rudski

Part One: Sensitizing

Step 1: Walk to the middle of the arena. Have your horse stand at the end of the lead rope, facing you. Hold the rope in the hand you will use to point in the direction you want him to go. Hold the flag in your other hand.

Step 2: Ask the horse to move by using your rope hand to point in the direction you want him to go. The horse should move his shoulders away from you and start to walk in a circle around you. Keep your feet planted. Once the horse moves in the direction you pointed, relax your rope hand to let him know he responded correctly.

Problem solving: If the horse doesn’t move after you point, increase the pressure of your ask by wiggling the flag toward his shoulder. If there is still no movement, tap his shoulder with increasing pressure until he moves in the direction you asked. If the horse moves in the wrong direction, keep applying steady pressure until he steps in the correct direction. Once he responds correctly, drop your flag hand and relax your rope hand.

Step 3: Allow the horse to keep moving forward. Once you ask him to walk in a circle around you, he should continue walking until asked to stop or given another command.

Problem solving: When learning the exercise, your horse may walk a few steps, then stop and face you. If this happens, repeat step 2 until he walks on the circle without stopping.

Step 4: Ask the horse to stop. Once he understands step 3, teach him to stop by sliding your rope hand up the rope and taking one step toward the horse’s hindquarters. He should move his hindquarters away and turn to face you. In response, walk to the horse and rub his face to let him know he responded correctly.

Problem solving: If the horse doesn’t move away after you take a step toward him, take another step toward the hindquarters. Keep walking toward the hindquarters until he stops and turns to face you. White notes that you may need to step toward the hindquarters and wave the flag when first teaching this step.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2-4 in opposite direction.

Part Two: Desensitizing

Once your horse understands how to complete part one going both directions, it’s time to introduce a final step to the exercise.

Step 6: Ask your horse to walk in a circle around you like you did for step 2. Then, reach out with the flag and gently rub his shoulder while the horse is walking. He should stay relaxed at the walk while the flag rubs his shoulder.

Problem solving: If your horse jumps or speeds up when the flag moves toward his shoulder, bring the flag back and keep it at the distance where he started to get nervous. Once he relaxes, take the flag away. Wait a bit, then re-introduce the flag and attempt to bring it closer than last time. Repeat this process and bring the flag closer each time you re-introduce it.

If your horse stops or freezes when the flag touches him, return to steps 2 and 3 before attempting to rub his shoulder with the flag again.

Getting to Know You

Humans don’t become experts on each other after one meeting, and neither do humans and horses. Getting to know a horse takes time and effort.

Whether your horse is a carrot cruncher that loves to cross creeks or a grain gobbler that prefers a slow stroll, groundwork can be a great tool to help you learn more about him.

This article about using groundwork exercises to get to know your horse appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Get to Know Your Horse with These Groundwork Exercises appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Have you ever wondered if your actions could be influencing your horse’s progress? Subtle changes can help promote the best possible partnership with your horse.

Kim Walnes is one such expert on the subject—you may remember her name as individual and team bronze medal winner at the 1982 World Three-Day Event Championships in Germany and the Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event winner the same year.

But even more so, she’s known for her incredible bond with her mount, The Gray Goose, during their banner years from 1980 to 1986 as members of the United States Equestrian Team.

You might assume their star-studded career began as a walk in the park, but that’s not the case.

“When I started riding Gray, he already had a bad reputation. He bit, kicked, and threw people off. He also bolted. I could see in his eyes and in his attitude toward life that, in his mind, the best defense was a good offense,” recalls Walnes, who also is a coach and clinician with The Way of the Horse.

Channeling Compassion

Horses are excellent teachers. Before Walnes acquired the legendary Gray, she had a 3/4 Arabian named Hunraff (“Raffy”). Raffy taught her to recognize the signs of fear in a horse. Due to early life experiences, both Raffy and Gray started out distrustful of humans.

“I stopped trying to control [Gray’s] behavior and began letting him know I was a safe space to be around,” says Walnes. Channeling earlier learnings from Raffy, she understood that aggression can come from a base of fear. “I was compassionate toward [Gray], and everything shifted. The cool thing with horses is they forgive us once we understand.

“Listening ensures understanding,” Walnes continues. “What I see a lot is, ‘My horse has to be disciplined.’ He can’t stop when he says he needs to—it’s ‘one more lap.’ When we listen to the horse and say, ‘Sure, I understand how you might be more tired than I thought, let’s stop here,’ they will start working with us.”

Fear & Confidence

“If you’re anxious in any way, for any reason, all the horse will feel is fear,” says Walnes. “Safety is his No. 1 priority. We’re supposed to be their leaders and protecting them, and if they feel fear from us, they will be looking for what’s wrong in their environment. The horse picks up on your emotions immediately.”

Walnes recommends taking a moment to ground yourself with reassurance.

Try these steps:

1. Calm your nervous system by putting a hand on your heart or stomach.

2. Observe your surroundings to confirm there is no danger.

3. Reassure yourself by voicing, “In this moment, we’re safe.”

4. Express your desire to work together when approaching your horse. Voice your anxiety and request mutual patience.

“Explaining things to a horse is like a miracle,” says Walnes. “Because they’re like, ‘Oh, OK.’ Horses are highly intelligent, sentient beings; we just don’t speak their language. In order for your horse to trust you, he must know you trust yourself.”

Acknowledgement & Presence

Try to be aware of common under-saddle errors, says Esther Kuhlmann, coach at Northland Equine Lessons and Training just outside Kansas City, Mo.

“A horse is a flight animal,” explains Kuhlmann, who was part of the Danish Team as a young rider. “The more you pull on the reins, the more the horse pulls against you. And when he goes faster, you [grip with] your knees because you are nervous—that is just human reflex. If you come forward in your shoulders and you hang on your knees, then the horse is just gone. You have to remember to let go.”

To help, Kuhlmann suggests groundwork and longe line lessons. Longe lessons help you concentrate on your riding form. She also recommends a lesson on a schoolmaster to teach you how the horse is supposed to feel.

Riding with tension can contribute to a horse’s stiffness and tension.

“I always go to the horse first to make sure there is nothing wrong with him,” says Kuhlmann. “Ninety-nine percent of the time, it is the rider.”

For a more fluid connection with your horse, she recommends practicing yoga and Pilates.

Riding with clarity is important for horses, “rather than going out vaguely and riding circles,” says Walnes.

“Training is like playing ‘hotter or colder,’” she continues. “It’s helpful to have a clear yes/no signal with the horse. You need to give the horse signals that he is on the right track, such as using a word like ‘good’ or a rolled ‘R’ sound, rather than the old paradigm that no punishment means he’s doing great.”

Tone & Behavior

“Horses understand us and what we say,” says Walnes. “They pick up the thoughts behind your words. When we label them or call them demeaning names, they feel the same as a human would feel in that situation. They tend to live up to expectations, and it builds resentment.”

Do your best to speak kindly and to be mindful of your emotions and bad days, such as an off day at work. On such days, Kuhlmann asks that students opt for a trail ride or longeing instead of a lesson.

“Otherwise, the horse feels it immediately,” she says. “Horses are sensitive and can read your heartbeat from 5 feet away.”

Consider this guidance when looking to improve the bond with your horse.

This article about under-saddle communication appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improving Under-Saddle Communication appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Although simple, trainer Clay Cavinder explains that the ground tie exercise teaches a horse how to be accountable and reduces the temptation for you to micromanage him.

Cavinder is a professor and extension horse specialist for Mississippi State University. In addition to training horses and teaching students, he is a professional judge for the American Quarter Horse Association, American Paint Horse Association, and National Snaffle Bit Association.

Why Ground Tie

While many horse-friendly locations provide ample places to secure horses, not every place has a solid, safe place to tie, Cavinder explains. When hitching posts are lacking, ground tying can come in handy.

Also, if you’re interested in showing in ranch horse classes, you may encounter patterns that require your horse to know how to ground tie. So what does a good ground tie look like?

Cavinder explains that the ground tie exercise demands a horse know how to stand still. In a show setting, the obstacle requires you to dismount and walk around the horse or go accomplish a task while the horse stays where you left him.

“Once you park the horse’s four feet, he doesn’t move—he stands there,” Cavinder says.

When he is judging this obstacle, he not only wants to see the horse’s hooves planted, but he also wants to see the horse’s head and neck stay still, too. He’s looking for a horse that mimics a statue. The horse shouldn’t be putting his head on the ground and fidgeting in the dirt. Instead, he should be alert, still, and focused on you.

Preparing to Teach

Before you consider teaching a horse to ground tie, Cavinder advises settling your horse. This isn’t an exercise to teach a freshly halter-broke horse that jumps when your hands move.

Instead, the horse should feel safe around you and know simple cues, such as what “whoa” means. If that’s the case, teaching the ground tie can help you build trust with your horse.

“Ground tying develops ‘Whoa means whoa, don’t move your feet, and let me work around you and develop this trusting bond with you,’” says Cavinder.

He uses a three-step process to train horses consisting of cue, response and reinforcement. It breaks down as follows:

Step 1: Provide the horse with a cue. A cue is any stimulus you give the horse. It can be verbal or physical.

Step 2: Read the horse’s response to the cue. The response is the horse’s feedback (or lack thereof) to a cue.

Step 3: Reinforce the cue. These are actions you take that help the horse understand if his response was right or wrong.

Once these prerequisites are complete, Cavinder says you can begin teaching your horse the ground tie exercise.

Teaching the Ground Tie

To teach this exercise, outfit your horse in a nylon halter. Cavinder recommends using a longe line instead of a lead rope while your horse is first learning the exercise. He breaks the ground tie down into the following three steps.

Step 1 (Cue): Drop the longe line on the ground in front of the horse and say “whoa.” (Hold on to the very end of the longe line in case your horse tries to leave.) Take one to two steps away from him.

Step 2 (Response): Watch how the horse responds. Does he choose to follow you, or move in another direction? Does he take a step and then stop? Does he stand still the entire time? Carefully assess the horse’s response to your cue.

Step 3 (Reinforcement): Communicate to your horse whether he responded correctly to the cue. If he responds by moving, show him that was the wrong response by either lifting his head and backing him up or asking him to move his hip away from you in a forehand turn. Then start over at Step 1.

If your horse responds by standing still or taking a single step and then standing still, show him he found the correct answer by returning to his side and petting or praising him.

As he begins to understand the exercise, you should gradually increase the number of steps you take away from the horse and vary their direction. The horse should remain still until you return.

Common Pitfalls

Although simple, there are several pitfalls Cavinder sees equestrians struggle with when teaching their horses how to ground tie.

Micromanaging the Horse: Cavinder cautions against micromanaging the horse. For example, when a horse is first learning the exercise, Cavinder doesn’t correct him if he takes a single step forward. Instead, he watches the horse’s response and gives him time to self-correct.

As the horse gains an understanding of the exercise, Cavinder’s expectations increase. You want the horse to try to answer the question being asked of him, and that requires him to search for the correct answer.

Giving Up: Horse training takes time. Too often, Cavinder sees equestrians watch or read training material, try the exercise a couple of times, and give up. Like humans, horses take time to learn.

Setting Unrealistic Expectations: Every horse is different. One horse may learn the exercise in three days, but others won’t. Additionally, a horse’s age and experience should help determine the expectations set for him. For example, Cavinder says yearlings should have lots of wiggle room for errors, while an older, well-trained horse will be expected to respond correctly sooner.

Misunderstanding the Three-Step Process: If you aren’t implementing the three-step process correctly, you can’t expect your horse to understand what you’re asking him to do. For example, being inconsistent with cues or misinterpreting the horse’s response will confuse him.

While simple, ground tying is a great skill for you and your horse to learn together. When a safe place to tie isn’t available and you’re faced with ground tying as the only option, you’ll be able to count on your horse to stay right where you left him.

As an added bonus, properly executing this training helps strengthen your relationship with your horse and lays a solid foundation for learning more challenging exercises together.

This article about the ground tie appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Master the Ground Tie appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Reason for Respect

Trainer Mike Brashear states that you’re training your horse every time you’re near him. While your horse may not be aggressive or mean, stepping into your space when he isn’t invited can lead to accidents.

Imagine walking into your horse’s pen to put hay in a slow feeder. Would your horse stand at a distance and only approach once you finish loading the feeder, or would he move forward into your space and steal a mouthful of hay as an appetizer?

If your horse is the type who would come to you and grab a snack, you may be in need of Brashear’s training tips so that your horse doesn’t accidentally munch your fingers, bump into you and cause a fall, or put you in a vulnerable position if multiple horses are in the feeding area.

“When you walk in the pen any other time, you want your horse to come to you,” he says. “Your horse learns that if he comes to you, he gets pets and gets loved on. So when you enter with hay, that’s what he’s going to do as well, unless you teach him something different. You may look at grabbing hay as disrespect, but the horse looks at it as, ‘This is what is allowed.’”

Ideally, Brashear says he wants his horses to wait. He works to put “wait” on his horses wherever and whenever possible so that they tune into his cues.

At feeding time, he wants horses to stand at a 3- to 6-foot distance and wait for him to set down and move away from the hay or grain. Brashear uses the following steps to teach a horse when he can come into your space (to get the food) and when he should respectfully keep his distance.

Teaching “Wait”

Make sure your horse has had his usual meal so that you aren’t training a hungry horse. Also make sure you have time to work with your horse without being rushed. Brashear suggests making this the groundwork that you do before you ride.

Outfit your horse with a rope halter and a 12-foot training lead attached to the halter with a knot. For now, leave the food in the barn. You’ll teach the cues without temptation present first. Only after your horse is doing well and obeying your request to stand and wait should you attempt it at feeding time.

“It’s always better to start with a connection with your horse so you have some control and can send him back out,” says Brashear.

1. Start by facing your horse and stand about 3 feet in front of him. Mimic the distance you’d like to be from your horse when you feed him in his stall or paddock.

2. If your horse moves into your space, shake the lead rope to encourage him to step or rock back. If he doesn’t move, shake harder. Make sure to keep your feet in the same place. You don’t want to chase the horse away or act aggressively. Instead, you’re just teaching him to respond to the rope correction and stay in place as you asked.

“I don’t want to walk to my horse or act mean,” says Brashear. “I want to teach him to wait. When the horse steps back, all my energy stops, and I stop moving the rope. That change of energy is the release.”

You may add a verbal cue of “get back” to remind your horse to stand still in a calm way. If your horse will stand still and not move into your space, back up and see if he will come into your space. Your moving back will invite the horse forward.

If you step forward, he should move accordingly, too. If you stop again, make sure that he will stand still. Practice this again. When you want your horse to move closer to you, step back (while still facing your horse) and take slack out of your lead rope.

As you work without feed present, think about how this same skill will work at feeding time. Think, “You can’t come up to this feeder until I’m back out of the stall door. If I turn my back and walk away, you can come up, but you can’t come up on me on your own accord.”

Add Feed

Next, set up the same scenario (standing in front of your horse and expecting him to stand respectfully), but have a pan of grain at your feet.   

Brashear says that now it’s time to ask your horse to move in and out of your space on command while the food is present. First, ask your horse to stand 3 to 6 feet away from you and the feed. Allow him to wait for about 30 seconds.

Ask your horse to come into your space by slumping your shoulders and stepping back. This change will invite your horse to move forward to get a bite from the feed pan.

“Horses will usually take one bite of grain, then lift up their heads to swallow,” he says. “Once your horse has taken a bite, ask him to step back and leave the feed again. Step forward and stand tall. Ask him to stand and wait until invited in again.”

Practice this over and over.

“Every bite of grain that my horse gets is dependent on me asking him to come into me,” says Brashear.

If your horse is responding well to your cues, practice again with a web halter. You want to know if your body language alone is enough to tell your horse to back up. With a “lighter” halter, you can tell if your horse is listening to your cues but still have some connection to him.

Finally, it’s time to test your horse without a halter. Work where you would feed your horse, but when he isn’t waiting for a meal. Take the halter off altogether and try the same setup.

If your horse stands and waits, notice if he’s looking for your cues.

“If he looks like he’s wondering if he should move to the food or not, he’s watching you,” says Brashear. “Make him wait and stand for about 30 seconds. Then, step back and away and allow him to get the food. Your rocking back draws him to you and allows him to get to the grain.”

Keep in mind that you may have to move back to previous training steps if your horse isn’t listening without the halter. Ask him to move away again when he picks his head up. Step forward and increase the energy in your body, then move your hands up and away just like you would have while holding the lead.

If he doesn’t respond, increase your energy until you get a change—without yelling or appearing angry. If your horse won’t move away or listen, go back and work with the rope halter and lead.

At Feeding Time

After you have practiced sending your horse away from the grain during a practice session, it’s time to do the same work at feeding time. Make sure that you have time and aren’t in a rush.

When you walk into the pen, carry the hay to the feeder and make sure that you’re aware of your horse’s position. If your horse comes up to you and you’re focused on filling up the feeder, put the hay down and focus on the horse just as you did in the last “no-halter” training session. Put your arms up and calmly tell your horse “get back.”

When you remind your horse of the training you did with the halter, he should learn that you expect the same behavior any time you are near him—including at feeding time.

This article about improving a horse’s behavior at feeding time appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Horse’s Feeding Time Behavior appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“When you are young and fall off a horse, you might break something. When you’re my age and you fall off, you splatter.” So said Roy Rogers, the King of the Cowboys.

While every rider fears falling from a horse, any tumble anywhere at any age can be dangerous. While trips and falls are generally not a big worry for younger people, the risk increases dramatically as we get older.

Hazards of Falls

About 30 percent of Americans over the age of 65 fall each year. That equates to nearly three million emergency room visits. To be even more gloomy, complications from those falls are the leading cause of injury-related deaths for that age group.

The normal changes in our bodies as we age set us up to lose balance and coordination. Weakening muscles and bones, poor posture, declining vision and hearing, and aching joints all conspire to throw us off balance. The result is often an unintended and disastrous collision with the ground.

Understanding how this happens and how to adapt to these physical changes improves your daily life and, as a happy additional benefit, improves your riding.

Balance & Posture

Balance dictates your coordination and ability to stand, walk, stoop, and turn without toppling. “Proprioception” is the scientific term for how we sense where we are in space.

Nerve endings throughout your body deliver an ongoing play-by-play to your brain of where your body is and what it’s doing. Your brain analyzes all the input as fast as a wizard kid solving a Rubik’s Cube and signals your muscles to react and keep you anchored.

For example, as you walk around the barn, you step on many different surfaces: the hard center of the barn aisle, the soft bedding in the stall, the rubber mats in the wash rack, the grass in the pasture, and the sand in the arena. You might be aware of the changes in the surfaces, but probably not of the changes your body makes to adjust your footing on each of them.

Balance depends on core, leg, and ankle strength. Strengthening muscles and developing good balance can slow the inevitable decline. If you already have balance troubles, exercises and behavioral changes help correct them.    

It starts with proper posture. The ideal posture is also what you want when sitting in the saddle: level shoulders and hips; ears, shoulders, elbows, hips, and ankles in a straight line; looking ahead, your toes and chest are pointed in the direction of travel. This lets you move easily and flexibly so you can react quickly to what is happening around you.

Maintaining that position depends on a strong core. You’re not looking for six pack abs, but deep inner muscles that create a steady support. Standing in the correct position automatically requires you to use your abdominal muscles so you’re essentially doing mild crunches all day.

Strong leg muscles and ankles add even more support. All this is great for riding, since it makes you more secure in the saddle.

Bone Density & Vision

Another factor is bone density. Bones regenerate somewhat when you’re younger, but once you hit 50, bone loss outpaces formation. This means a higher chance of breaking something.

Strength training and weight-bearing exercises both help to slow bone loss and increase bone density. Posting while you ride counts, as does walking after a horse that doesn’t want to come in from the pasture.

Vision is also vital. As you age, you lose your peripheral vision. It happens so slowly that you may not even realize it. As your range of vision becomes smaller, you unconsciously shift your focus to compensate. You look at the ground a yard or so in front of your feet when you walk, which means you tilt forward, shifting your center of gravity. If you stumble, you can’t immediately compensate and right yourself.

There are plenty of ways to improve balance, coordination, and peripheral vision. The simplest is training yourself to stand and move in the correct position. Instead of looking down, focus forward on where you want to go, like looking ahead when approaching a jump.

Develop ever better balance by walking on uneven terrain (chasing that horse again) or riding a bicycle. The gold standard for developing core strength, posture, strong muscles, and flexibility is Pilates. Gyms, the YMCA, and senior centers offer balance programs, while internet videos are good alternatives for home workouts.

Exercises That Help with Balance

Here are some simple exercises you can do on your own. Try doing them without holding out your arms for balance.

• One-leg balance: stand with your feet hip-width apart. Life one foot off the ground for 30 seconds. Switch sides.
• Tightrope walk: Walk in a straight line, placing one foot directly in front of the other, heel-to-toe, as though walking on a tightrope.
• Flamingo stand: Lift one leg to a 90-degree position. Hold for a count of 10. Repeat on the other leg.
• Ankle strengthener: While sitting, push your foot as though you are pressing on the gas pedal of your car. Do this 10 to 12 times, then rotate your foot in each direction 10 times. Finally, shift your heel 10 times in each direction.

This article about improving balance to prevent riding falls as you get older appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Balance to Prevent Riding Falls As You Get Older appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The Basics of Good Arena Footing

The ideal footing needs to:

• Have traction
• Have no dust
• Have cushioning
• Deter injuries
• Boost performance
• Provide stability
• Provide rebound energy (the responsiveness and resiliency of the footing surface to return it its original form by returning energy back to the horse)

Factors that make footing poor quality include:

• Too deep
• Too hard
• Too uneven
• Too loose
• Too dusty
• Non-draining
• Slippery

There are three primary layers to arenas: the top footing, the sub-surface, and the base.

Sand is the most popular surface used across the world, both with and without synthetic fibers added. Others include wood chips/sawdust, rubber chips, grass, and dirt. The sub-surface has many options: a drainage layer, grid-mats, compacted stone, sand, or another manufactured material. Most bases are made out of clay, stone dust, and the natural native soil of the property.

What the arena is made of, how much traffic goes through it, precipitation and temperature all play a part in keeping an arena safe.

Different arenas have different requirements to keep them in peak performance, but most require the following:

• Watering regularly
• Regular dragging and grooming
• Removal of manure, urine and other organic material
• Adding new sand
• Raking upkeep
• Picking out weeds, rocks and other debris

Sand and Fiber Footing

Cynthia Brewster Keating is the national director of sales and marketing director for GGT-Footing. For more than 25 years, Polysols, the parent company of GGT-Footing, has been producing innovative equestrian footing products for riding arenas.

“The arena footing products are repurposed remnant virgin material that’s used to make various fibers and textile blends,” says Keating. “The focus is on developing the best combination of synthetic chopped non-woven material and combining it with the highest-quality sands from quarries across the county.

“The different disciplines require a different amount of tightness in the sand,” she adds. “The pleasure blend has minimal fiber and is designed to keep the sand fluffy. The dressage blend has 15 percent fiber and is designed to provide variations according to how it is groomed and maintained. The jumper blend has 30 percent fiber, designed to offer concussion, relief, and stability as well as rebound energy.”

Keating has found that the quality of the sand is not as good as it used to be in the United States due to amount of fracking and the oil industry.

“Because of this, we have found that it’s important to use more fiber, regardless of what your discipline is,” says Keating. “Ninety percent of our sales are blend. We use our competition blend at high-end horse shows, which is 50 percent geotextile and 50 percent fiber. [These shows] require the most support and concussion relief, especially in the Grand Prix dressage and jumper arenas.

“Nowadays, it’s recommended that you hire a consultant that can test the sand that you are thinking of using,” she adds. “Many professional arena builders are now using mixtures of variable grades of sand to achieve the best results.”

Keating says anyone building arenas should assess the level of riding and how many horses go through their arena each day.

“Across the country, there are a varying products available for base, so it’s best to work with a contractor who is familiar with your specific property and ground,” she says.

A Vet’s View

Poor footing can be a big contributor to lameness, according to Rob van Wessum, DVM, M.S., who practices at Equine All-Sports Medicine Center in Mason, Mich. He’s also a Grand Prix dressage rider who holds a diplomate from the American College of Equine Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (ACVSMR).

He says that close to 50 percent of his case load of lame horses is due to improper footing and improper training techniques in inadequate footing. He mostly sees tendon or ligament injuries related to both these factors.

“In deep footing with lack of stability, the horse moves the footing material too much, which means less rebound of ground-reaction forces into the horse, causing tendon injuries, especially suspensory ligament injuries,” says van Wessum. “The horse loses energy with every stride, moving footing instead of himself. That puts a lot of strain on muscles to deliver more energy. A horse is built for rebound energy stored in tendons, so a lot of kinetic energy is stored as elastic energy during the air phase and then used in the next stance phase. With deep footing, there is far less rebound energy.

“When muscles get fatigued due to excess work in deep footing for too long in the same kind of work, a horse can’t stabilize his core anymore, which will cause damage to the connective tissue as result,” he continues. “Connective tissue is often ligament, fascia or tendon. You can find it in the limbs but also in the back, neck, and pelvis region. Damage to all those regions is diagnosed daily in our practice.”

Consequences of Poor Arena Footing

Footing that is so deep the coronary band disappears is one of the most common kinds of bad footing.

“The opposite of too deep is too hard, which can damage to the bone structures due to concussive forces,” says van Wessum.

He explains that footing that has too much grip, like when too much fiber is added, can cause damage to the collateral ligaments of the coffin, pastern, and fetlock joint. This is due to rotational forces when riding in small circles, lateral gaits, or landing and turning after jumps—any time the foot gets stuck on the footing while the upper part of the limb turns. He also sees this with too-deep footing when it is muddy or clay-like and sucks the hooves in.

“Footing that is too slippery due to rain or over-watering causes many injuries, such as ligament and tendon injuries in the lower limb, but also spinal ligament injuries in the neck, back and pelvis,” says van Wessum.

One of the worst kinds of footings van Wessum sees is when the same arena has different areas within it, like harder, softer and then deeper areas.

“When the quality of the footing suddenly changes, a misstep and strain or distortion of joint or ligament is the result,” he says.

Van Wessum stresses that there is no general rule for quality footing materials.

“It depends on what the arena is used for, where it’s located geographically, the traffic through the arena (one or two horses a day versus 60), and the quality of the maintenance,” he explains.

The Best Prevention

What are the best steps a rider can take to protect their horse? Incorporate proper training and exercise to adapt to the quality of footing, according to van Wessum.

“When the footing is deeper, shorter bouts of more intense work, alternating with walking, helps the horse recover and avoid fatigue,” he says. “Proper shoeing and timely reshoeing so the angles don’t change too much is extremely important.”

Van Wessum does not see any advantage to boots or leg protection when it comes to preventing injury due to bad footing.

His client horses receive regular soundness exams (approximately every six months) to monitor any small changes in performance and sensitivity of tendons and ligaments before they become a bigger issue.

“We saw horses from the same facility showing tenderness in the suspensory ligament,” says van Wessum. “After looking at the footing, we could see that it was getting too deep because of less watering in dry times.”

It’s smart to take a walk in any new footing with your horse before riding, exercising or competing. Pay attention to the depth, consistency and condition of the arena.

What’s under your horse’s feet will affect his overall soundness, confidence and performance. Knowing how horses react to different surfaces will help you determine the best type of footing to ride in.

With patience and proper training, you can help your horse travel on many surfaces safely and without injury.

This article about arena footing appeared in the September 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Arena Footing 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“It’s super beneficial to expose a horse to any sort of obstacle you can get your hands on because it creates better communication and trust between handler and horse,” says Camille White, who operates Camille’s Mustangs out of Bryan, Texas. White is also the 2022 Fort Worth Extreme Mustang Makeover Champion.

Preparation

Before you begin introducing a bridge or step-over to your horse, White advises preparing him by making sure he has a few prerequisites down pat.

Can Stand Still: A horse that knows how to stand still shows that he is capable of down-regulating his nervous system and accessing the thinking side of his brain, according to White. During obstacle training, she rewards the horse by releasing all pressure and allowing the horse to stand still and relax.

Legs Are Desensitized: When working with obstacles like bridges or step-overs, there is a good chance the obstacle will touch the horse’s legs. White prepares the horse for this sensation by introducing him to the feeling of having his legs touched by various objects before starting obstacle training.

Has a Good Follow: Before she starts obstacle work, White wants the horse to know how to track her when being led. She calls this “having a good follow.” In addition to tracking her, she wants the horse to know how to maintain a respectful distance from her.

Can Isolate Body Parts: White wants the horse to know how to move specific body parts when asked so she can position him to approach the obstacle. This includes the ability to move his shoulders and hindquarters from both sides. Once finished, she wants to see the horse return to a neutral, relaxed state.

Understands Halter Pressure: White teaches a horse how to respond correctly to halter pressure before starting obstacle training. When she picks up on the lead rope and the halter tightens across the horse’s poll, she wants him to smoothly and willingly move forward with her.

Ground Obstacle #1: Bridges

Bridges can show up in the show ring and on the trail. But White explains that learning how to step onto a bridge can also teach a horse how to step onto other strange surfaces, such as loading into a trailer. Groundwork is the key to introducing bridges and other novel surfaces.

Step 1: Begin by confidently approaching the bridge and ask your horse to follow. Don’t stop or hesitate when walking toward the obstacle, as this may communicate to the horse that it’s unsafe to move forward. If he hesitates, reinforce your ask by continuing to move forward and creating gentle pressure across the horse’s poll with the halter.

Step 2: Reward effort. Watch for the horse to commit to following you across the bridge. As soon as he commits, release all pressure. Try to time the release of pressure with the horse crossing the bridge to associate it with the obstacle. You may have to reward many small steps (such as sniffing the bridge or taking a single step toward it) before the horse commits to crossing the obstacle.

Step 3: Once he is comfortable calmly crossing the bridge, have the horse cross it again, but ask him to stop in the middle. When he stops, release all pressure and allow him to relax on the bridge. This helps the horse associate relaxation with the obstacle. If your timing is well-placed during step 2, this step will come naturally to most horses.

Be ready to troubleshoot the top three most common challenges when it comes to introducing a bridge crossing from the ground.

Refusal to Move: If the horse refuses to move during your approach, yield his hindquarters and shoulders to unlock his feet, then approach the bridge again. If he still refuses, create pressure at the hindquarters to encourage forward movement. Begin by simply looking at his hindquarters. If there is no response, increase pressure by using an extension of your arm, such as a training flag, to tap the horse’s hindquarters until he moves forward. Reward the smallest effort by removing all pressure.

Moving Backward: If the horse moves backward, move with him without releasing the tension on the lead rope. Continue to ask him to take one step forward in the right direction. Reward effort, which may be as small as the horse leaning toward the bridge.

Rushing the Bridge: The first time the horse crosses the bridge, he may rush over it. If he rushes through the obstacle, immediately turn around and cross the obstacle again. Repeat until he slows down and becomes intentional about where he places his feet.

Ground Obstacle #2: Step-Overs

Step-overs appear in the form of ground poles, cavalletti poles, logs, branches and even puddles of water. A horse that knows how to step over an obstacle can successfully navigate many different situations. White shares the following steps for teaching a horse how to step over obstacles from the ground.

Step 1: Start with an easy item to step over, such as a ground pole. Confidently approach the step-over and ask the horse to follow. Don’t stop or hesitate when walking toward the obstacle, as this may communicate to the horse that it’s unsafe to move forward. If he hesitates, reinforce your ask by continuing to move forward and creating gentle pressure across his poll with the halter.

Step 2: Reward effort. Watch for the horse to commit to following you across the pole. As soon as he commits, release all pressure. Try to time the release of pressure with him crossing the bridge to associate it with the obstacle. You may have to reward many small steps (such as sniffing the pole or taking a single step toward it) before the horse commits to crossing the obstacle.

Step 3: Once the horse is comfortable stepping over a single ground pole, increase the challenge by adding more ground poles in a row and eventually increasing the height of the step-over. Follow steps 1 and 2 until he can calmly cross the obstacle.

Again, there are some common issues you should be ready to troubleshoot from the get-go when it comes to step-overs.

Avoiding the Obstacle: If the horse tries to sidestep or go around the obstacle, isolate his shoulder and ask him to return to a straight position before asking him to move forward toward the obstacle again.

Reacting to the Obstacle Touching His Legs: If the horse reacts poorly to the obstacle touching his legs, return to the prerequisite of familiarizing him with foreign objects touching his legs before trying the obstacle again.

Rushing the Step-Over: Adding height to the step-over may cause the horse to rush or jump over it. If that happens, immediately turn around and cross the obstacle again. Repeat until he slows down and becomes intentional about where he places his feet.

“Preparedness is always going to be your best friend when working with horses,” says White.

She encourages you to prepare your horse for situations that require him to cross obstacles before the need to cross an obstacle arises. Teaching your horse how to become comfortable with obstacles takes time, but it’s time worth investing.

More Groundwork Articles

◆ Groundwork for When You Can’t Ride
◆ Five Groundwork Exercises for Your Horse
◆ Groundwork Exercises to Improve Communication
◆ Groundwork with a Purpose
◆ How to Start Training a Horse for Liberty

This article about ground obstacles appeared in the September 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Try These Two Ground Obstacles appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one tops the charts for diverse scenery, unique culture, and local hospitality.

Panama City

My friend, Ali, and I spend a night in Panama City to enjoy a traditional Panamanian meal, including yucca and plantains, in the brightly decorated Sabroso restaurant on the Amador causeway. Colorfully lit buses drive the road beside the park where families walk enjoying the city lights reflecting in the water.

Lunch in El Valle, a town constructed in the middle of an extinct volcano, breaks up our five-hour drive to Santa Fe. We arrive just in time for dinner at Hotel Anachoreo and join our friends, Dawn and Tracy, for homemade fish soup, with fresh herbs from the hotels incredible garden.

Our host, Lizzie, a fit-looking young woman originally from Zimbabwe, arrives to introduce herself and let us know the plan for the morning.

“My farm is on the river, which isn’t always passable because of the rain, so the horses will be transported by road—the long way around—to a friend’s farm, where we’ll begin,” she says.

While handing out cushy saddle seat covers and saddle bags, she reminds us to pack our bathing suits and towels.

Meeting the Horses

After a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, crepes and bacon, we hop in Lizzie’s Jeep to a small corral where her helper, Jose, is just finishing tacking up the horses.

Ali is given Pali, a small palomino mare; Dawn is presented with Luca, a tall brown-and-white Paint Horse; and Tracy has a cute blue roan named Chombin.

Jose and Lizzie adjust the stirrups and I mount up on Capitan, a gaited chestnut Criollo. The western saddle is extremely comfortable.

“They are locally made,” Lizzy tells me. Some of the horses are also bitless, which is always a pleasant surprise.

Lizzie leads the way on a stallion named Calypso.

“He hasn’t been ridden in a while,” she tells us. “We’ll see what happens.”

Jose takes up the rear on a mule named Mr. Red, ponying Little Dude, a small gray Criollo gelding. Kids come out to greet us.

Calypso, eager to run uphill, takes the lead on a wonderful gallop up the mountain road. Resting at Cerro Tute, historically known as a rebel hideout, we tie the horses to a fence for a snack and enjoy the views of the small town of Santa Fe, population approximately 3,500.

Petroglyphs and Swimming

After crossing the peak, the pine trees turn into cactus plants and the dirt road turns to clay—from forest to desert just like that! We zig-zag through an array of round rocks displaying petroglyphs (see pg. 72). The wind cools us from the hot sun, but it’s so strong that it blows the sun brim off my helmet. Even Ali’s special brim with Velcro and hooks can’t fight it.

We cross a large river, tie the horses to trees and untack them.

“Time for a swim,” Lizzy announces.

Ali takes Pali right in, deep enough to swim. I hop on Capitan and he is eager to cool off. The current is strong, but the horses plunge through. It’s so much fun I can feel my smile growing from ear to ear the deeper I get. The water is just right—refreshing but not too cold.

Leaving the horses behind for Jose to take home, we head into town for a delightful late lunch at a local restaurant and have some yummy ginger chicken. We stop at a store where I purchase a wide-brim hat for under my helmet, and the others find shoes for swimming.

A vivid rainbow can be seen from our hotel, where we enjoy fresh cheese from the cheese shop before dinner.

A Steep Climb to the Cows

A local farmer, Wilson, has invited us to explore his land. We enjoy coffee and homemade muffins in his barn the next morning before heading out. This is the first time Lizzie has taken him up on his offer, and he seems excited to have us.

Ali has decided to give the mule, Mr. Red, a try, and he turns out to be a good choice for the narrow, rocky paths clinging to the hillside. We dismount and follow Wilson to a hidden cave, complete with bats and human bones.

Steep climbs that lead to incredible vistas and long canters on the sandy footing are a treat. After a rest in the shade, Jose helps Wilson round up his cows, and we help herd them back to the ranch where a homemade picnic awaits us.

Dawn’s Paint Horse, Luca, is the perfect mount to practice roping cows while Wilson and Jose brand calves. What a day!

Tropical Forest Waterfall

Dawn’s sister, Danialle, has finally arrived (delayed due to passport issues), and she joins us for the rest of the week. Just when you think it can’t get any better, Lizzie keeps throwing surprises at us.

We begin to explore the tropical forests of the Santa Fe National Park, a 290-square mile conservation area. Surrounded by hanging vines and tropical plants, a very steep climb takes us to a stunning waterfall, where we can jump in to cool off and swim around in its pools.

The newly purchased shoes for swimming come in handy. The current is strong in parts, so we have to be careful. At the end of a great ride we cross the river, dismount and enjoy a wonderful riverside BBQ, finished off with Ali’s special grilled pineapple.

A freshly graded red dirt road on the side of a mountain allows for long gallops. At the top, we rest and take in the views, trying to spot our hotel below.

Organic Farm & Hanging Bridge

Deep in the forest, we ride to an organic farm for lunch, of which 90 percent of the ingredients are home-grown. The owner gives us a demonstration of how coffee is made. Everyone we meet is super friendly and accommodating.

The clouds continue to linger in the next valley, and we can feel the mist in the air, but the rain subsides for the entire week. Everyone has been happy with their mounts. Nothing seems to faze them: not the horses running in pastures next to us, cows coming to check us out, trucks on the road, or barking dogs.

They are put to the test when we have to cross a long, skinny hanging bridge hovering above the river. We dismount and walk them across. I am shaking in my boots, but Capitan doesn’t flinch. These horses are amazing—even at an old telephone booth, Dawn coaxes Luca right up to grab the receiver.

Goodbyes & The Canopy Tower

Our last ride finishes at Lizzie’s farm, where we untack the horses and help Jose bathe them and turn them out. It is with sweet sorrow that we say goodbye to the horses, the farm, Wilson, Lizzie and Jose. The experience has been incredibly unique.

Ali and I finish the trip with a breakfast tour of The Canopy Tower, just outside of Panama City, where we get to watch various tropical birds and monkeys at the top of the rain forest. A nature walk rewards us with an anteater sighting, a first for me.

Panama has never been a destination at the top of my list, but Unicorn Trails Santa Fe Jungle Ride with Horseback Panama touched my heart. The horses, the people, the locally grown food, and the stunning scenery definitely won me over.

For more on the Santa Fe Jungle Ride, visit here.

Other Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ Top 10 International Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch
◆ Riding Through Sicily
◆ Riding Camargue Horses in France

This article about a trail ride in Panama appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post A Trail Ride in Panama appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.