For over 40 years, Parelli Natural Horsemanship has been teaching horse lovers worldwide that true horse-man-ship can be obtained naturally using communication, understanding, and psychology versus mechanics, fear, and intimidation. Our goal is to share an effective training program that makes sense to horses, naturally.

Yet several myths persist that hinder true partnership. Let’s debunk five common horsemanship myths and misconceptions.

Myth 1: “Catch your horse any way you can.”

Did you know your session starts the moment your horse sees you? How you approach your horse and even how you put the halter on means something to him.

Humans are instinctively predators; horses are prey animals. When we rush straight at them to “catch” them, we can trigger their flight response. As the leader in the relationship, we want to create a natural attraction, so our horses become willing participants. When done right, your horse will meet you at the gate!

Myth 2: “Saddle him up and get on.”

First, we need to find out how our horse is feeling today. What side of the corral did he wake up on? Just like you have good days and bad days, so does your horse.

Make no assumptions that because your horse felt fine and you had a good ride yesterday, all will be well today. Before a pilot takes off in a plane, they always conduct pre-flight checks. The same should apply to our horse-man-ship. A few minutes of groundwork can prevent dangerous surprises in the saddle.

Myth 3: “Kick him to go.”

Riding is simple, right? After all, there’s a pedal for each foot! While leg cues are important, simply “kicking” a horse to go is counterproductive and creates dullness.

Instead, create a language by teaching your horse to respond to phases of pressure—starting with your energy first, and building to a squeeze to create understanding and willing forward motion. The result? A responsive horse who listens to whisper-light cues.

Myth 4: “Pull on him to stop.”

Horses are masters at reading and understanding body language. If phases of energy can create forward motion, the absence of energy can also mean slow down and stop.

You wouldn’t drive a car with malfunctioning brakes, and you shouldn’t ride a horse who relies on the reins to stop. Teaching your horse to respond to your seat and energy creates true self-carriage and a soft, balanced stop.

Myth 5: “Use the reins to turn.”

Horses have long bodies and humans have tall bodies. Learning to use long-body-logic means involving our entire body and energy in our communication with horses.

We influence our horses to move—on the ground and in the saddle—by turning our eyes (focus) first and then proceeding through our phases. This creates fluid, harmonious turns that feel effortless.

Join Us on This Journey

Please join us as we take a deeper dive into each of these five myths in the upcoming 2026 issues of Horse Illustrated. Our goal is to teach you how to train your horse safely and effectively at home, so that both you and your horse can have more fun and achieve excellence together, creating a true partnership based on trust and mutual understanding.

Learn more about our digital home-study curriculum, the Levels Program, at Parelli.com.

This edition of “Parelli Perspectives” about horsemanship myths appeared in the January/February 2026 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Debunking 5 Common Horsemanship Myths appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Inside you is a great rider—a rider who’s full of possibilities, potential, courage, and confidence. All you need to do is figure out how to let that inner greatness out.

Your ability to release your inner greatness depends on a series of important physical and mental skill sets. For example, you might have the world’s best leg, seat, position, and posture, but if you’re constantly freaking out, panicking, hyperventilating, and worrying before every ride, there’s a pretty good chance your brain is going to hold your body back.

Building a Complete Rider

If you’re like most equestrians, you’ve probably spent years developing your hips, heels, and hands because you know they’re a major key to your success as a rider. You’ve probably also spent countless hours developing your horse because you know that without a confident partner, there’s little chance you’ll succeed.

But I want to remind you that your puzzle is still missing a few important pieces—your head, health, and heart. Your head is where confidence, courage, self-belief, and resiliency are born. Your health is how you prepare for (and protect your body against) the physical demands of our sport. And your heart is where your ability to forgive yourself after making a mistake—or finish strong after a slow start—resides.

Combine them all together and they create the ability to turn setbacks into comebacks—to hold it together when it would be easier to let it fall apart. This is what it means to be a complete rider.

A Map for Your Riding Destination

If you want to get somewhere important, you’re going to need some pretty solid step-by-step directions to get you there. After all, when you don’t know where you’re going, you’ll probably end up somewhere else!

Maps are what you use to ensure you’ll arrive where you want to go—physically. Likewise, goals are the maps you use to ensure you’ll arrive where you want to go—mentally.

There are many different kinds of goals. Right now, I’m just going to talk about these three:

◆ Immediate goals: Goals you can complete in minutes or hours. These often act as the spark that lights the fire of desire to accomplish your goal.

◆ Progress goals: Often called “short-term” goals, these goals can be completed in days or weeks and are what allow you to achieve your final goal, one step at a time.

◆ Product goals: Often called “long-term” goals, these can be completed in months or years and will ultimately be the product of all your progress goals.

For example, say you’re a flat rider with a product goal of learning to jump. Your immediate goal might be to simply read a chapter in a jumping book by the end of the day; and your process goals might be to learn to (1) trot over poles; (2) canter over poles; (3) trot over cross-rails; and finally (4) canter over cross-rails.

Your product goal is the result of all your progress goals.

Put Your Pen Away

Setbacks are a common, and even important, part of the goal-setting process because each time you experience one, you’ll learn something you didn’t know before.

With this in mind, consider writing your goals in pencil so that each time a setback occurs, you can simply erase the original goal and replace it with a new and improved one.

Get Your Pen Back Out!

Achieving your goals can be wonderfully motivating, so each time you accomplish one, pull out a big colorful marker and cross it off.

Make Your Goals SMART

You may have heard of “SMART” goals before, but here’s a refresher on what SMART stands for.

◆ Specific: A goal like leaning to ride without stirrups is better than a goal of becoming a better rider because it’s more specific.

◆ Measurable: A goal like learning to canter is measurable because you know when you’ve accomplished it (or not).

◆ Attainable: When you identify goals that are most important to you, you begin to figure out ways you can make them come true.

◆ Realistic: To be realistic, a goal must be an objective that you’re both willing—and able—to accomplish. If it’s beyond your reach, your motivation might take a big hit.

◆ Timely: Goals need a time frame. Without one there’s no sense of urgency. When you have a complete-by date, you’ll have the motivation to chase after it. But you’d better hurry!

Try This

Create something called a goal-setting ladder. Start by drawing a six-step ladder with a product goal written on the top step and an immediate goal on the bottom step. Next, fill in the remaining four steps with a series of achievable process goals.

The purpose of this ladder is to show you how to reach your goals, one step at a time.

This excerpt from Fit & Focused in 52 by Coach Daniel Stewart appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post New Year Riding Goals appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The Gaucho Derby—deemed the “greatest test of horsemanship on Earth”—challenges riders’ wilderness survival and navigational skills as they race through of a network of estancias in the wilds of Patagonia (not to mention the test of camping outside each night).   

And for those brave enough to attempt it, these races are life-changing.

How Jessie Dowling’s Derby Preparation Began

In 2022, 40-year-old Jessie Dowling, an industrious cheesemaker and dairy farmer in Whitefield, Maine, was listening to a podcast while milking sheep and goats—unaware that soon she would embark on her own life-changing adventure, competing in the 2023 Mongol Derby.  

As president of the Maine Cheese Guild and owner of Fuzzy Udder Creamery, Dowling’s schedule was grueling. The pandemic forced her to think about where her life was going as a farmer and her happiness. She began spending more time with her horses—riding, training, attending clinics—and listening to podcasts.  

“I had heard of the Mongol Derby but thought it was for professional riders—I’m a backyard rider” Dowling says. “But on Warwick Schiller’s podcast, Stevie Delahunt talked about signing up for her Mongol Derby boot camp in Oregon—and I decided to do it.”

Dowling applied for the Mongol Derby, trained with endurance riders in Maine, completed her first limited-distance ride in 2022, and interviewed for the Mongol Derby the following day. “I told them I completed my first distance ride, was signed up for the Mongol boot camp, and they said I was in.”  

“I had zero endurance riding experience,” Dowling says. “I arrive at boot camp in Oregon; Warwick Schiller is there training for the Gaucho Derby. I went from listening to his podcasts in my milking parlor to riding Arabians with him.”

Falling in love with Arabians in the process, Dowling immediately acquired an Arabian gelding, Jelly Bean, as her new Mongol Derby training partner. “He has taught me so much about staying present, reading a horse’s energy, and regulating my energy.” 

Jessie Dowling and Jelly Bean. Photo by Julie Maddock

Her year-long Derby preparation included running, yoga, completing farm chores wearing a hydration pack, using a balance board to strengthen muscles, and a three-day intensive riding clinic with Solange Ellis. “She totally changed how I ride with biomechanic adjustments—sitting a gallop and riding in stable positions for long periods.”

The Mongolian steppe is covered with little marmot holes. “I learned how to sit back as the horse falls into a marmot hole, picks themselves up, and keeps going,” Dowling says. She also learned to ride Western and fast over all terrain. “You’re galloping for miles at a time.”   

In addition to improving these various riding skills, Dowling took Mongolian language lessons and carefully planned her gear.

“You’re only allowed 11 pounds,” Dowling says. “I had a little saddle bag, a hydration pack, med kit, water purification tablets, snacks, two sets of clothes, rain gear, and comfortable hiking shoes.” She traveled to Mongolia and arrived at the starting line.  

The Adventure Begins

“On an average day, the topography changes a lot—mountains, lakes, rivers, rolling hills, grasslands,” Dowling says. “You pass freely roaming cows, sheep, goats, horses, a herd of camels.”  

Dowling gallops past a herd of sheep and goats. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Riding 12 hours a day works up an appetite. There’s no Panera along the route; Dowling quickly adapted to the local food provided by host families at the urtuu—the horse stations. “The diet is one of the hardest parts,” Dowling says. “They eat parts of the sheep that we don’t normally eat—intestines or sheep face.” She often snacked on traditional meat pies throughout the day.  

The race rules are strictly enforced, prioritizing the horses’ well-being and the riders’ safety. “Race hours start at 7 a.m. and end at 7 p.m. If you arrive at a horse station by 7 p.m., you give your horse back to the herder, enjoy some food, and sleep in a ger. But if it’s 5 p.m. and you realize you can’t make it to the next station by 7 p.m., you must find a random ger to stay in. But hospitality is huge in Mongolian culture—they usually invite you to stay and feed you if you show up at a ger.” 

Dowling and fellow riders enjoy dinner with a Mongolian family in a traditional ger. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

On day five, Dowling came off her horse while attempting to put on a rain jacket. She was unable to get back on her flighty mount. “We were walking and walking; I couldn’t find a ger,” Dowling says. “I had to stop at 7 p.m. or else get penalized. So I watched the sunset with my horse; it was beautiful.” She messaged the vet who came to complete the required check on her horse, who she helped Dowling get water and find a ger to stay in that night. Per race rules, Dowling incurred a 2-hour penalty for receiving assistance.  

You Get the Derby You Need

A network of Mongolian herders provide hundreds of horses for the race. 

“You ride 29 different horses during the race,” Dowling says. “It’s a lottery which horse you get. Each horse goes 40 km (25 miles). At each horse station, a vet checks the horse’s heart rate. It must come down to 56 bpm within a half hour. They have the highest standards of ethical welfare for a horse. The vet checks the horse’s gut sounds and gait. A rider gets penalized if there’s any problem with the horse. You can’t override your horse. The race taught me how to rate a horse—a horse will help you know its fitness if you really listen to it.”  

At horse station 2, Dowling kisses her horse goodbye, returning him to his proud owner. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Horse’s temperaments are another challenge many riders face during the journey, but this was an area in which Dowling shined.

“Some had trouble with their horse being spicy, but my superpower is that I love every horse I come across” Dowling says. “So, I would just take a deep breath, tell them that I loved them, find the spot they liked to be scratched, and connect with them.”

Dowling lets her horse stop for a drink on day three. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

As for expectations, be prepared to be humbled. 

“People say you don’t get the Derby you want—you get the Derby you need,” Dowling says. Although she never reached her breaking point, day eight came close. “It’s mostly geldings—just a handful of stallions. On day eight, I pulled a stallion. Never riding a stallion before, I was a bit nervous. I headed out with other riders, tried to keep up, but he kept going slower. It was like he had never cantered before. Then we were down to a slow trot. Then a walk. I’m now the last rider. And if you get too far behind, you’ll get kicked out of the race.

“So I arrive at the only town on the race, and after eating boiled mutton face for a week, I had hopes of joining other riders at a café for chips and a beer… no other riders were there. Then my stallion would not walk over the bridge leaving town. An interpreter nearby helped by leading me across the bridge like I was on a pony ride. And he takes a picture. It was so embarrassing.

“At the next station, my horse checks out fine. I check the hospitality ger—all the food is gone. I just burst into tears. I took a deep breath, headed out to the horse line, and I picked number five. The herder had been waiting for someone to pick his prized horse all day. And I end up getting on the fastest horse! And that boy and I went straight out, galloping across the desert steppe, passed other riders, arrived at the next station less than two hours later, and I was back in the race.”

 Talk about getting the Derby you need.

“That day was the worst and best part of the race,” Dowling says. “I was hungry, demoralized, tired—but never gave up.” 

Leaving station 28, Jessie gallops across the Mongolian steppe towards the finish line. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Forty-three riders started the race, only 25 finished, and Dowling placed 13th. She says the experience was life-changing. “I went from an intermediate rider to an advanced rider. Spending 12 hours a day in the saddle on difficult horses, I feel light years ahead in my riding,” Dowling says. “So I got home. The next week, our farm’s cheese wins Best in Show at the Maine Cheese Festival, but I felt hollow inside. I realized this wasn’t what I wanted to do anymore.” 

She promptly sold her business to pursue an equestrian career full-time—with zero regrets.

Dowling accepts ceremonial milk at the finish line. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Dowling celebrated by riding the Tevis Cup—a 100-mile, one-day race in California. She opened Iron Ledge Farm, offering lessons and endurance training. Dowling visited Argentina to start training for her next adventure—the Gaucho Derby, which runs from February 18 to 28, 2026. Because the Gaucho Derby involves camping along the route, Dowling is figuring out how to pack a tent, stove, camping gear, and riding essentials in a saddle bag weighing no more than 22 pounds. “The Mongol Derby is the longest race in the world, but the Gaucho Derby has been called the toughest.”  

 And if anyone is up for the challenge, it’s Jessie Dowling.

Learn more about Jessie Dowling and her equine adventures by visiting ironledgefarm.com and following her on Facebook.   

This article about Jessie Dowling’s Mongol Derby is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How Jessie Dowling’s Mongol Derby Adventure Paved the Way to More appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Eucerin Oil Control Sun Gel-Cream SPF 50+

When you’re on vacation, there’s little time to wait for your sunscreen to dry before you blast off to the barn or beach. This dry-touch facial sunblock for oily, acne-prone skin ensures you don’t have to delay, so dirt is less likely to stick to it. An added bonus? It’s extra water- and sweat-resistant.

Available for $19.58 on caretobeauty.com.

Blundstone Chelsea No. 550

Iconic for a reason, Blundstone boots mold to your feet and wear like iron; they’re made of durable, double-stitched leather. The Chelsea No. 550 boot offers outstanding, lightweight shock absorption. Pull tabs make sure you can get them on quickly and easily.

Available for $209.95 on blundstone.com.

Hydaway Collapsible Travel Bottle

A collapsible water bottle ensures you stay hydrated without weighing you down. Collapses to a 1.5-inch disc and holds 17 ounces of water when expanded (a 25-ounce option is also available). Dishwasher safe, it’s made of food-grade silicone and BPA-free plastic. Available in a variety of colors.

Available for $29.95 on shop.myhydaway.com.

Helmet Brims Horseback Riding Standard Brim Sun Visor

The Helmet Brims Riding Sun Visor blocks both the sun and the rain without blocking your vision. Lightweight and easy to fit onto your helmet using velcro and elastic, this visor is made with Australian shade cloth that ensures high sun protection while also being exceptionally durable and offering a bit of visibility. Various trim color options.

Available for $46.95 from ridingwarehouse.com.

Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30

Whether you’re in the rain or in the wind, Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30 is the perfect moisturizing lip balm. Offering both UVA and UVB protection, this cocoa butter-infused balm is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.

4-count available for $9.99 on amazon.com.

Body Glide Anti-Chafe Stick

Keep your thighs and backside chafe-free no matter how long you spend in the saddle with Body Glide Anti Chafe Stick. Sweat- and water-resistant, this easy-to-apply balm creates an invisible barrier to protect skin from rubbing, chafing, pinching, and other irritants.

Available from $5.49 to $16.99 on bodyglide.com.

Ariat VentTEK Stretch Shirt

Wear-tested and ready to ride, the button-front shirt offers UV protection and VentTEK side panels for air flow. Its moisture-wicking technology is designed for optimal comfort in any weather, ensuring you look good no matter how long you ride.

Available for $58.95 on ariat.com.

Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers

It’s not always your seat bones that get sore when you’re spending hours on end in the saddle. Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers reduce pressure around the pubic bones, ensuring more even weight distribution and a comfortable, safer seat. Available in western, dressage and jumping options.

Price varies by model; purchase on acavallo.com.

This article about trail and marathon riding essentials appeared in the January/February 2025  issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Trail and Marathon Riding Essentials appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Svetlana/Adobe Stock

“Knowing how bits should sit and fit in a horse’s mouth could help avoid serious problems and setbacks—I suggest using a bit-sizer to start,” says Alan Fisher, a champion trainer with over 20 years’ experience based in Eastover, N.C., who specializes in western pleasure prospects.

He says that riders need to learn the control points of different bits, the mechanics behind mouthpieces, and what exactly should be achieved with each type of bit.

A bit sizer is great to have as the first step in finding the right bit for your horse. Photo by Laura Boynton Jobson

Snaffles vs. Ported

There are two important categories of bits: ported (leverage) and snaffle (direct action).

Ported or “correction” bits come in low, medium, and high leverage levels, and feature an inverted curve, U-shape, spoon-shape, square-hinge or spade-shape at the center of the mouthpiece. These shapes provide tongue pressure relief. Western bits have shanks that connect the reins to the bit, which vary from 4 to 8 inches long.

Western curb bits have many styles of shanks, metals, and mouthpieces to choose from.

Both English and western ported bits come with a chain or curb strap to stop the bit from harming a horse’s mouth.

Snaffle bits work by direct pressure from the ring to the rider’s hand through the rein, and either type of bit can be made from stainless steel, copper, titanium, sweet iron or aluminum. Some mild snaffles are made of plastic, rubber, leather or fabric material.

Snaffle bits use direct action from the rein. Full-cheek rings help guide and turn the horse. Photo by Nigel Baker/Adobe Stock

Snaffle Cheek Pieces

While ported bits always have a shank cheek, there are several common styles of cheek rings in snaffles, each with a different effect.

◆ Loose rings move with the horse’s lips, tongue and jaw by gliding through the attached mouthpiece.

◆ Full cheeks have two short bars coming off the sides, one on top and one on the bottom of the fixed mouthpiece. This bit is useful for young or inexperienced horses who need help with steering or to learn how to carry their head without tilting.

◆ D-ring and eggbutt snaffles are both fixed options that resemble the letter D or an oval-egg shape. These are less likely to move side to side in the mouth.

Snaffle Mouthpieces

As opposed to the mouthpieces described above for ported bits, snaffles have straight mouthpieces with various shapes and joints.

◆ Non-jointed snaffles have a mouthpiece that’s straight across with no breaks in the metal, rubber or plastic.

◆ Single-jointed snaffles are considered a basic, and feature a break in the bit with a joint in the middle that creates a V-shape in a horse’s mouth that puts rein pressure on the bars of the jaw and edges of the tongue.

◆ Double-jointed snaffles follow the shape of the tongue better than a single-jointed bit. They have two joints that connect the sides of the bit with a central link.

◆ Smooth snaffles are on the milder side and work well with sensitive mouths and for beginners who aren’t as gentle on a horse’s mouth.

◆ Twisted-wire snaffles are considered more severe and are commonly used for horses that tend to hang or pull on the rider’s hands, or when more control is needed, such as galloping cross-country.

◆ Roller bits have movable pieces that rotate and help a horse to relax his mouth and jaw.

Combo Action

English riders sometimes use leverage bits combined with snaffle action.

◆ Double bridles have a curb bit and chain, a snaffle bit with small loose rings called a bradoon, and two sets of reins. They are used in upper-level dressage and show jumping, as well as saddle seat riding.

◆ Pelham bits are most often found in hunter rings, on foxhunters, and on the polo field, and are designed to combine the action of a curb bit with a snaffle, like a double bridle.

This bit provides leverage on the jaw with its lower shanks and curb chain to encourage flexion at the poll and stronger brakes, while the snaffle mouthpiece gives turning control.

Pelhams are usually used with two sets of reins, although “converters” are available for beginners that switch the bit to one set of reins—but these negate much of the bit’s action.

Pelhams combine leverage and snaffle action using two sets of reins. Photo by Janet/Adobe Stock

Soft Feel

Western trainer Shawn Alter shares that nerves and being scared is why most riders have heavy hands and tend to use the bit too aggressively.

“You must take the time to practice and gain the muscle memory of going to the horse’s mouth softly, asking first, and giving him a chance to respond while softening with your fingers to create a nice flow without any yanking,” says Alter, who owns Shawn Alter Quarter Horses in New Alexander, Pa., and specializes in showing, training, selling and judging horses for local and open shows.

“To be an efficient and well-rounded rider, you’ll need to learn to ride more with your seat and legs, and have less pull on the reins.”

A Bit Reactive

“Horses often learn to be angry at the bit when they feel rushed or pushed beyond their abilities,” says all-around Quarter Horse trainer Melissa Jones, who owns Jones Performance Horses along with her husband, Chris, in Reelsville, Ind. “Horses who haven’t learned to give to the bit or choose not to give tend to turn defensive and act out.”

The more you are heavy-handed or jerk on a horse’s mouth, the more the horse will want to get away from that pressure, she says.

“Not leaning on a snaffle is important because our goal is for the horse not to lean on the bit, and holding will reinforce that.”

Releasing Pressure

Trainer Alyse Roberts says that releasing bit pressure as a reward is key for teaching a horse to self-carry correctly.

“I’d rather see a rider who releases hand pressure too soon rather than too late,” says Roberts, who owns Alyse Roberts Performance Horses located in Purcell, Okla., and specializes in all breed hunter under saddle. “Hanging on the bit defeats the purpose and can upset a horse who is trying to do his job, but the rider keeps getting in the way.”

Dental Check-Up

All-around trainer and judge Jamie Dowdy says that it’s critical to rule out physical discomfort in the mouth, which gives the impression of bit trouble.

“A yearly dental exam is needed, especially in young horses, as they can be experiencing mouth and teeth soreness due to shedding baby caps and possible wolf teeth,” says Dowdy of Hartman Farms, a Quarter Horse facility in Marshfield, Mo. “Older horses need routine dentals for preventative measures to stay ahead of any developing problems.”

Just walking into a tack store and looking at the wall of bits can seem daunting. Our bit experts all mentioned that having an experienced trainer guide the transition to a new bit is a smart way to set your horse up for steering, control and—most importantly—communication success.

This article about bits appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post All About Bits appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Cavan for Adobe/Adobe Stock

2022 Fort Worth Extreme Mustang Makeover Champion and horse trainer Camille White uses groundwork as a tool to help her learn more about a horse, and shares with us one of her favorite exercises.

Using Groundwork to Build Trust

In White’s experience, groundwork is an essential part of building trust with a horse. When on the ground, you have a good read of your horse’s facial expressions and can observe how he is carrying himself. She adds that it can be helpful to see a horse’s reaction to something from the ground before observing it from the saddle.

One of her favorite get-to-know-you groundwork activities is a longeing exercise that teaches the horse how to relax and involves both sensitizing and desensitizing components. White describes “sensitizing” as getting a horse sensitive to cues and teaching him how to move his body, while “desensitizing” is teaching a horse to accept new and scary things.

She explains that many of a horse’s opinions, personality, and coping mechanisms become apparent when he is moving, making this a great exercise to help you learn how your horse thinks and what things he prefers.

“It’s a lot harder for horses to hide what they’re thinking when they’re moving, as opposed to standing still,” says White.

When teaching the exercise, White says to be clear and consistent with your horse by communicating the same way every time. By doing this, he will learn what he can and can’t expect from you, and his trust in you will grow. 

The Exercise

The following steps outline a two-part longeing exercise that White uses to get to know the horses she works with. To perform this exercise, you will need a rope halter, a 12-to-16-foot lead rope, and a flag.

Photos by Shoshana Rudski

Part One: Sensitizing

Step 1: Walk to the middle of the arena. Have your horse stand at the end of the lead rope, facing you. Hold the rope in the hand you will use to point in the direction you want him to go. Hold the flag in your other hand.

Step 1.

Step 2: Ask the horse to move by using your rope hand to point in the direction you want him to go. The horse should move his shoulders away from you and start to walk in a circle around you. Keep your feet planted. Once the horse moves in the direction you pointed, relax your rope hand to let him know he responded correctly.

Problem solving: If the horse doesn’t move after you point, increase the pressure of your ask by wiggling the flag toward his shoulder. If there is still no movement, tap his shoulder with increasing pressure until he moves in the direction you asked. If the horse moves in the wrong direction, keep applying steady pressure until he steps in the correct direction. Once he responds correctly, drop your flag hand and relax your rope hand.

Step 3: Allow the horse to keep moving forward. Once you ask him to walk in a circle around you, he should continue walking until asked to stop or given another command.

Problem solving: When learning the exercise, your horse may walk a few steps, then stop and face you. If this happens, repeat step 2 until he walks on the circle without stopping.

Steps 2 and 3.

Step 4: Ask the horse to stop. Once he understands step 3, teach him to stop by sliding your rope hand up the rope and taking one step toward the horse’s hindquarters. He should move his hindquarters away and turn to face you. In response, walk to the horse and rub his face to let him know he responded correctly.

Problem solving: If the horse doesn’t move away after you take a step toward him, take another step toward the hindquarters. Keep walking toward the hindquarters until he stops and turns to face you. White notes that you may need to step toward the hindquarters and wave the flag when first teaching this step.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2-4 in opposite direction.

Step 5.

Part Two: Desensitizing

Once your horse understands how to complete part one going both directions, it’s time to introduce a final step to the exercise.

Step 6: Ask your horse to walk in a circle around you like you did for step 2. Then, reach out with the flag and gently rub his shoulder while the horse is walking. He should stay relaxed at the walk while the flag rubs his shoulder.

Problem solving: If your horse jumps or speeds up when the flag moves toward his shoulder, bring the flag back and keep it at the distance where he started to get nervous. Once he relaxes, take the flag away. Wait a bit, then re-introduce the flag and attempt to bring it closer than last time. Repeat this process and bring the flag closer each time you re-introduce it.

Step 6.

If your horse stops or freezes when the flag touches him, return to steps 2 and 3 before attempting to rub his shoulder with the flag again.

Getting to Know You

Humans don’t become experts on each other after one meeting, and neither do humans and horses. Getting to know a horse takes time and effort.

Whether your horse is a carrot cruncher that loves to cross creeks or a grain gobbler that prefers a slow stroll, groundwork can be a great tool to help you learn more about him.

This article about using groundwork exercises to get to know your horse appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Get to Know Your Horse with These Groundwork Exercises appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Have you ever wondered if your actions could be influencing your horse’s progress? Subtle changes can help promote the best possible partnership with your horse.

Kim Walnes is one such expert on the subject—you may remember her name as individual and team bronze medal winner at the 1982 World Three-Day Event Championships in Germany and the Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event winner the same year.

But even more so, she’s known for her incredible bond with her mount, The Gray Goose, during their banner years from 1980 to 1986 as members of the United States Equestrian Team.

Kim Walnes and The Gray Goose had a bond that made history in the horse world. Photo by Mary Phelps

You might assume their star-studded career began as a walk in the park, but that’s not the case.

“When I started riding Gray, he already had a bad reputation. He bit, kicked, and threw people off. He also bolted. I could see in his eyes and in his attitude toward life that, in his mind, the best defense was a good offense,” recalls Walnes, who also is a coach and clinician with The Way of the Horse.

Channeling Compassion

Horses are excellent teachers. Before Walnes acquired the legendary Gray, she had a 3/4 Arabian named Hunraff (“Raffy”). Raffy taught her to recognize the signs of fear in a horse. Due to early life experiences, both Raffy and Gray started out distrustful of humans.

“I stopped trying to control [Gray’s] behavior and began letting him know I was a safe space to be around,” says Walnes. Channeling earlier learnings from Raffy, she understood that aggression can come from a base of fear. “I was compassionate toward [Gray], and everything shifted. The cool thing with horses is they forgive us once we understand.

“Listening ensures understanding,” Walnes continues. “What I see a lot is, ‘My horse has to be disciplined.’ He can’t stop when he says he needs to—it’s ‘one more lap.’ When we listen to the horse and say, ‘Sure, I understand how you might be more tired than I thought, let’s stop here,’ they will start working with us.”

Walnes and Gray. She explains that horses pick up on any sign of fear from their rider, so you need to provide a sense of safety in order to be successful. Photo by Mary Phelps

Fear & Confidence

“If you’re anxious in any way, for any reason, all the horse will feel is fear,” says Walnes. “Safety is his No. 1 priority. We’re supposed to be their leaders and protecting them, and if they feel fear from us, they will be looking for what’s wrong in their environment. The horse picks up on your emotions immediately.”

Walnes recommends taking a moment to ground yourself with reassurance.

Try these steps:

1. Calm your nervous system by putting a hand on your heart or stomach.

2. Observe your surroundings to confirm there is no danger.

3. Reassure yourself by voicing, “In this moment, we’re safe.”

4. Express your desire to work together when approaching your horse. Voice your anxiety and request mutual patience.

“Explaining things to a horse is like a miracle,” says Walnes. “Because they’re like, ‘Oh, OK.’ Horses are highly intelligent, sentient beings; we just don’t speak their language. In order for your horse to trust you, he must know you trust yourself.”

Acknowledgement & Presence

Try to be aware of common under-saddle errors, says Esther Kuhlmann, coach at Northland Equine Lessons and Training just outside Kansas City, Mo.

Esther Kuhlmann coaching students during a cross-country schooling day. Photo courtesy Esther Kuhlmann

“A horse is a flight animal,” explains Kuhlmann, who was part of the Danish Team as a young rider. “The more you pull on the reins, the more the horse pulls against you. And when he goes faster, you [grip with] your knees because you are nervous—that is just human reflex. If you come forward in your shoulders and you hang on your knees, then the horse is just gone. You have to remember to let go.”

To help, Kuhlmann suggests groundwork and longe line lessons. Longe lessons help you concentrate on your riding form. She also recommends a lesson on a schoolmaster to teach you how the horse is supposed to feel.

To help overcome nerves, Kuhlmann suggests lessons on the longe line. Photo by XtravaganT/Adobe Stock

Riding with tension can contribute to a horse’s stiffness and tension.

“I always go to the horse first to make sure there is nothing wrong with him,” says Kuhlmann. “Ninety-nine percent of the time, it is the rider.”

For a more fluid connection with your horse, she recommends practicing yoga and Pilates.

Riding with clarity is important for horses, “rather than going out vaguely and riding circles,” says Walnes.

“Training is like playing ‘hotter or colder,’” she continues. “It’s helpful to have a clear yes/no signal with the horse. You need to give the horse signals that he is on the right track, such as using a word like ‘good’ or a rolled ‘R’ sound, rather than the old paradigm that no punishment means he’s doing great.”

Tone & Behavior

“Horses understand us and what we say,” says Walnes. “They pick up the thoughts behind your words. When we label them or call them demeaning names, they feel the same as a human would feel in that situation. They tend to live up to expectations, and it builds resentment.”

Do your best to speak kindly and to be mindful of your emotions and bad days, such as an off day at work. On such days, Kuhlmann asks that students opt for a trail ride or longeing instead of a lesson.

“Otherwise, the horse feels it immediately,” she says. “Horses are sensitive and can read your heartbeat from 5 feet away.”

Consider this guidance when looking to improve the bond with your horse.

This article about under-saddle communication appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improving Under-Saddle Communication appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Although simple, trainer Clay Cavinder explains that the ground tie exercise teaches a horse how to be accountable and reduces the temptation for you to micromanage him.

Cavinder is a professor and extension horse specialist for Mississippi State University. In addition to training horses and teaching students, he is a professional judge for the American Quarter Horse Association, American Paint Horse Association, and National Snaffle Bit Association.

Why Ground Tie

While many horse-friendly locations provide ample places to secure horses, not every place has a solid, safe place to tie, Cavinder explains. When hitching posts are lacking, ground tying can come in handy.

Also, if you’re interested in showing in ranch horse classes, you may encounter patterns that require your horse to know how to ground tie. So what does a good ground tie look like?

Cavinder explains that the ground tie exercise demands a horse know how to stand still. In a show setting, the obstacle requires you to dismount and walk around the horse or go accomplish a task while the horse stays where you left him.

“Once you park the horse’s four feet, he doesn’t move—he stands there,” Cavinder says.

When he is judging this obstacle, he not only wants to see the horse’s hooves planted, but he also wants to see the horse’s head and neck stay still, too. He’s looking for a horse that mimics a statue. The horse shouldn’t be putting his head on the ground and fidgeting in the dirt. Instead, he should be alert, still, and focused on you.

The horse should stand with all four feet, head, and neck still, like a statue, while ground tied. Photo by Shoshana Rudski

Preparing to Teach

Before you consider teaching a horse to ground tie, Cavinder advises settling your horse. This isn’t an exercise to teach a freshly halter-broke horse that jumps when your hands move.

Instead, the horse should feel safe around you and know simple cues, such as what “whoa” means. If that’s the case, teaching the ground tie can help you build trust with your horse.

“Ground tying develops ‘Whoa means whoa, don’t move your feet, and let me work around you and develop this trusting bond with you,’” says Cavinder.

He uses a three-step process to train horses consisting of cue, response and reinforcement. It breaks down as follows:

Step 1: Provide the horse with a cue. A cue is any stimulus you give the horse. It can be verbal or physical.

Teach a verbal or physical cue to stand. Photo by Shoshana Rudski

Step 2: Read the horse’s response to the cue. The response is the horse’s feedback (or lack thereof) to a cue.

Step 3: Reinforce the cue. These are actions you take that help the horse understand if his response was right or wrong.

Once these prerequisites are complete, Cavinder says you can begin teaching your horse the ground tie exercise.

Teaching the Ground Tie

To teach this exercise, outfit your horse in a nylon halter. Cavinder recommends using a longe line instead of a lead rope while your horse is first learning the exercise. He breaks the ground tie down into the following three steps.

Step 1 (Cue): Drop the longe line on the ground in front of the horse and say “whoa.” (Hold on to the very end of the longe line in case your horse tries to leave.) Take one to two steps away from him.

Drop the longe line, use your verbal or physical cue to stand, and take a couple of steps back. Photo by Shoshana Rudski

Step 2 (Response): Watch how the horse responds. Does he choose to follow you, or move in another direction? Does he take a step and then stop? Does he stand still the entire time? Carefully assess the horse’s response to your cue.

Step 3 (Reinforcement): Communicate to your horse whether he responded correctly to the cue. If he responds by moving, show him that was the wrong response by either lifting his head and backing him up or asking him to move his hip away from you in a forehand turn. Then start over at Step 1.

If your horse responds by standing still or taking a single step and then standing still, show him he found the correct answer by returning to his side and petting or praising him.

As he begins to understand the exercise, you should gradually increase the number of steps you take away from the horse and vary their direction. The horse should remain still until you return.

Gradually increase the number of steps back you take while asking the horse to stand. Photo by Shoshana Rudski

Common Pitfalls

Although simple, there are several pitfalls Cavinder sees equestrians struggle with when teaching their horses how to ground tie.

Micromanaging the Horse: Cavinder cautions against micromanaging the horse. For example, when a horse is first learning the exercise, Cavinder doesn’t correct him if he takes a single step forward. Instead, he watches the horse’s response and gives him time to self-correct.

As the horse gains an understanding of the exercise, Cavinder’s expectations increase. You want the horse to try to answer the question being asked of him, and that requires him to search for the correct answer.

Giving Up: Horse training takes time. Too often, Cavinder sees equestrians watch or read training material, try the exercise a couple of times, and give up. Like humans, horses take time to learn.

Setting Unrealistic Expectations: Every horse is different. One horse may learn the exercise in three days, but others won’t. Additionally, a horse’s age and experience should help determine the expectations set for him. For example, Cavinder says yearlings should have lots of wiggle room for errors, while an older, well-trained horse will be expected to respond correctly sooner.

Misunderstanding the Three-Step Process: If you aren’t implementing the three-step process correctly, you can’t expect your horse to understand what you’re asking him to do. For example, being inconsistent with cues or misinterpreting the horse’s response will confuse him.

While simple, ground tying is a great skill for you and your horse to learn together. When a safe place to tie isn’t available and you’re faced with ground tying as the only option, you’ll be able to count on your horse to stay right where you left him.

As an added bonus, properly executing this training helps strengthen your relationship with your horse and lays a solid foundation for learning more challenging exercises together.

This article about the ground tie appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Master the Ground Tie appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Reason for Respect

Trainer Mike Brashear states that you’re training your horse every time you’re near him. While your horse may not be aggressive or mean, stepping into your space when he isn’t invited can lead to accidents.

Imagine walking into your horse’s pen to put hay in a slow feeder. Would your horse stand at a distance and only approach once you finish loading the feeder, or would he move forward into your space and steal a mouthful of hay as an appetizer?

If your horse is the type who would come to you and grab a snack, you may be in need of Brashear’s training tips so that your horse doesn’t accidentally munch your fingers, bump into you and cause a fall, or put you in a vulnerable position if multiple horses are in the feeding area.

“When you walk in the pen any other time, you want your horse to come to you,” he says. “Your horse learns that if he comes to you, he gets pets and gets loved on. So when you enter with hay, that’s what he’s going to do as well, unless you teach him something different. You may look at grabbing hay as disrespect, but the horse looks at it as, ‘This is what is allowed.’”

Ideally, Brashear says he wants his horses to wait. He works to put “wait” on his horses wherever and whenever possible so that they tune into his cues.

At feeding time, he wants horses to stand at a 3- to 6-foot distance and wait for him to set down and move away from the hay or grain. Brashear uses the following steps to teach a horse when he can come into your space (to get the food) and when he should respectfully keep his distance.

Teaching “Wait”

Make sure your horse has had his usual meal so that you aren’t training a hungry horse. Also make sure you have time to work with your horse without being rushed. Brashear suggests making this the groundwork that you do before you ride.

Outfit your horse with a rope halter and a 12-foot training lead attached to the halter with a knot. For now, leave the food in the barn. You’ll teach the cues without temptation present first. Only after your horse is doing well and obeying your request to stand and wait should you attempt it at feeding time.

“It’s always better to start with a connection with your horse so you have some control and can send him back out,” says Brashear.

1. Start by facing your horse and stand about 3 feet in front of him. Mimic the distance you’d like to be from your horse when you feed him in his stall or paddock.

Begin without food present and stand about 3 feet in front of your horse. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

2. If your horse moves into your space, shake the lead rope to encourage him to step or rock back. If he doesn’t move, shake harder. Make sure to keep your feet in the same place. You don’t want to chase the horse away or act aggressively. Instead, you’re just teaching him to respond to the rope correction and stay in place as you asked.

If your horse starts to step into your space, shake the lead rope and ask him to step back. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

“I don’t want to walk to my horse or act mean,” says Brashear. “I want to teach him to wait. When the horse steps back, all my energy stops, and I stop moving the rope. That change of energy is the release.”

You may add a verbal cue of “get back” to remind your horse to stand still in a calm way. If your horse will stand still and not move into your space, back up and see if he will come into your space. Your moving back will invite the horse forward.

If you step forward, he should move accordingly, too. If you stop again, make sure that he will stand still. Practice this again. When you want your horse to move closer to you, step back (while still facing your horse) and take slack out of your lead rope.

As you work without feed present, think about how this same skill will work at feeding time. Think, “You can’t come up to this feeder until I’m back out of the stall door. If I turn my back and walk away, you can come up, but you can’t come up on me on your own accord.”

Add Feed

Next, set up the same scenario (standing in front of your horse and expecting him to stand respectfully), but have a pan of grain at your feet.   

Brashear says that now it’s time to ask your horse to move in and out of your space on command while the food is present. First, ask your horse to stand 3 to 6 feet away from you and the feed. Allow him to wait for about 30 seconds.

First, ask the horse to stand away from you and the feed for 30 seconds. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

Ask your horse to come into your space by slumping your shoulders and stepping back. This change will invite your horse to move forward to get a bite from the feed pan.

Next, ask the horse to come forward and take a bite of feed. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

“Horses will usually take one bite of grain, then lift up their heads to swallow,” he says. “Once your horse has taken a bite, ask him to step back and leave the feed again. Step forward and stand tall. Ask him to stand and wait until invited in again.”

After he lifts his head to swallow the feed, ask him to step back again. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

Practice this over and over.

“Every bite of grain that my horse gets is dependent on me asking him to come into me,” says Brashear.

If your horse is responding well to your cues, practice again with a web halter. You want to know if your body language alone is enough to tell your horse to back up. With a “lighter” halter, you can tell if your horse is listening to your cues but still have some connection to him.

Finally, it’s time to test your horse without a halter. Work where you would feed your horse, but when he isn’t waiting for a meal. Take the halter off altogether and try the same setup.

Once your horse has learned in a halter, you can progress to doing the exercise at liberty. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

If your horse stands and waits, notice if he’s looking for your cues.

“If he looks like he’s wondering if he should move to the food or not, he’s watching you,” says Brashear. “Make him wait and stand for about 30 seconds. Then, step back and away and allow him to get the food. Your rocking back draws him to you and allows him to get to the grain.”

Keep in mind that you may have to move back to previous training steps if your horse isn’t listening without the halter. Ask him to move away again when he picks his head up. Step forward and increase the energy in your body, then move your hands up and away just like you would have while holding the lead.

If he doesn’t respond, increase your energy until you get a change—without yelling or appearing angry. If your horse won’t move away or listen, go back and work with the rope halter and lead.

At Feeding Time

After you have practiced sending your horse away from the grain during a practice session, it’s time to do the same work at feeding time. Make sure that you have time and aren’t in a rush.

When you walk into the pen, carry the hay to the feeder and make sure that you’re aware of your horse’s position. If your horse comes up to you and you’re focused on filling up the feeder, put the hay down and focus on the horse just as you did in the last “no-halter” training session. Put your arms up and calmly tell your horse “get back.”

When you remind your horse of the training you did with the halter, he should learn that you expect the same behavior any time you are near him—including at feeding time.

This article about improving a horse’s behavior at feeding time appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Horse’s Feeding Time Behavior appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“When you are young and fall off a horse, you might break something. When you’re my age and you fall off, you splatter.” So said Roy Rogers, the King of the Cowboys.

While every rider fears falling from a horse, any tumble anywhere at any age can be dangerous. While trips and falls are generally not a big worry for younger people, the risk increases dramatically as we get older.

Photo by Halfpoint/Adobe Stock

Hazards of Falls

About 30 percent of Americans over the age of 65 fall each year. That equates to nearly three million emergency room visits. To be even more gloomy, complications from those falls are the leading cause of injury-related deaths for that age group.

The normal changes in our bodies as we age set us up to lose balance and coordination. Weakening muscles and bones, poor posture, declining vision and hearing, and aching joints all conspire to throw us off balance. The result is often an unintended and disastrous collision with the ground.

Understanding how this happens and how to adapt to these physical changes improves your daily life and, as a happy additional benefit, improves your riding.

Balance & Posture

Balance dictates your coordination and ability to stand, walk, stoop, and turn without toppling. “Proprioception” is the scientific term for how we sense where we are in space.

Nerve endings throughout your body deliver an ongoing play-by-play to your brain of where your body is and what it’s doing. Your brain analyzes all the input as fast as a wizard kid solving a Rubik’s Cube and signals your muscles to react and keep you anchored.

For example, as you walk around the barn, you step on many different surfaces: the hard center of the barn aisle, the soft bedding in the stall, the rubber mats in the wash rack, the grass in the pasture, and the sand in the arena. You might be aware of the changes in the surfaces, but probably not of the changes your body makes to adjust your footing on each of them.

Balance depends on core, leg, and ankle strength. Strengthening muscles and developing good balance can slow the inevitable decline. If you already have balance troubles, exercises and behavioral changes help correct them.    

It starts with proper posture. The ideal posture is also what you want when sitting in the saddle: level shoulders and hips; ears, shoulders, elbows, hips, and ankles in a straight line; looking ahead, your toes and chest are pointed in the direction of travel. This lets you move easily and flexibly so you can react quickly to what is happening around you.

Ideal posture on the ground is also ideal in the saddle: level shoulders and hips; ears, shoulders, elbows, hips, and ankles in a straight line; and looking ahead with toes and chest pointed in the direction of travel. Photo by 24K-Production/Adobe Stock

Maintaining that position depends on a strong core. You’re not looking for six pack abs, but deep inner muscles that create a steady support. Standing in the correct position automatically requires you to use your abdominal muscles so you’re essentially doing mild crunches all day.

Strong leg muscles and ankles add even more support. All this is great for riding, since it makes you more secure in the saddle.

Bone Density & Vision

Another factor is bone density. Bones regenerate somewhat when you’re younger, but once you hit 50, bone loss outpaces formation. This means a higher chance of breaking something.

Strength training and weight-bearing exercises both help to slow bone loss and increase bone density. Posting while you ride counts, as does walking after a horse that doesn’t want to come in from the pasture.

Vision is also vital. As you age, you lose your peripheral vision. It happens so slowly that you may not even realize it. As your range of vision becomes smaller, you unconsciously shift your focus to compensate. You look at the ground a yard or so in front of your feet when you walk, which means you tilt forward, shifting your center of gravity. If you stumble, you can’t immediately compensate and right yourself.

There are plenty of ways to improve balance, coordination, and peripheral vision. The simplest is training yourself to stand and move in the correct position. Instead of looking down, focus forward on where you want to go, like looking ahead when approaching a jump.

Focus ahead instead of on the ground in front of you as you walk to help improve posture. Photo by JackF/Adobe Stock

Develop ever better balance by walking on uneven terrain (chasing that horse again) or riding a bicycle. The gold standard for developing core strength, posture, strong muscles, and flexibility is Pilates. Gyms, the YMCA, and senior centers offer balance programs, while internet videos are good alternatives for home workouts.

Exercises That Help with Balance

Exercises where you stand on one foot will help improve balance during everyday life. Photo by Microgen/iStock

Here are some simple exercises you can do on your own. Try doing them without holding out your arms for balance.

• One-leg balance: stand with your feet hip-width apart. Life one foot off the ground for 30 seconds. Switch sides.
• Tightrope walk: Walk in a straight line, placing one foot directly in front of the other, heel-to-toe, as though walking on a tightrope.
• Flamingo stand: Lift one leg to a 90-degree position. Hold for a count of 10. Repeat on the other leg.
• Ankle strengthener: While sitting, push your foot as though you are pressing on the gas pedal of your car. Do this 10 to 12 times, then rotate your foot in each direction 10 times. Finally, shift your heel 10 times in each direction.

This article about improving balance to prevent riding falls as you get older appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Balance to Prevent Riding Falls As You Get Older appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.