When you practice at home with distracting obstacle additions, you’ll help prepare your horse for anything he may see in a judged event.

Photo by Becky Ruehle/Ruehle Photographix

What to Expect

Trainer Nancy Nemmers keeps her trail course changing so that her horses see new additions and distractions during each ride. When it comes to the poles, she practices at home with tree trimmings lining the path and even places a tarp under the poles—all to help her mount be aware of his hoof placement and stay willing to move forward, even with distraction.

“A lot of poles in competition have cut-off stumps and brush; they may [also] have a real tree placed around the logs,” she says. “That’s something horses will look at and may be leery about approaching. There also isn’t a set distance between the poles. So, as you’re riding, you have to focus and tell your horse where to place his feet. These are all different from typical show-trail classes.”

Nemmers says it’s important to practice with different pole setups and to practice your horsemanship at home. When you know that your horse will pick up his feet and cross any obstacle, you’ll feel confident when being judged.

“Your horse won’t always have a chance to look at the obstacles before a competition,” Nemmers says. “It’s important to work your horse with different obstacles and create that trust that you can cross anything together.”

Pole Presentation 

Nemmers has a full trail course at her training facility in Longmont, Colo. She says she moves the course obstacles around at least every two weeks—presenting new scenes and placements so the horses don’t get used to the course. If the family trims a tree or does yard work, she drags the big branches and brush to decorate her pole placements. After the holidays, old Christmas trees line the poles or serve as a pole to drag.

“You can use anything you have,” says Nemmers. “If your horse doesn’t have shoes on, you can put a tarp under the poles. That tarp makes a sound and gives your horse something different to look at around the poles. The horse may flutter when they hear that sound. You must keep encouraging him to look forward and make him move forward.”

The distance of the poles is at the discretion of the show committee. Practice at home with the logs spaced differently, and not always measured precisely as you may do for other types of practice.

The distance of the poles is at the discretion of the show committee. Practice at home with the logs spaced differently. Photo by Heidi Melocco

The Forward Position 

“Once your horse places that first foot on the tarp or over the poles, you’re going to encourage him to move on and take the next step,” Nemmers says. “If you let up and give him a chance to notice more and resist, he may take the ‘out.’”

Placing a tarp under the poles gives the horse something different to look at. Keep your reining hand forward and look where you want your horse to go. Photo by Heidi Melocco

To encourage your horse to move forward, Nemmers says to move your upper body slightly forward and keep your legs gently pressed on the horse’s ribcage to keep him balanced and engaged. Nemmers says she pulses her legs and feet on the horse’s sides as she looks forward. Your body position and leg cues combined will encourage your horse forward.

Nemmers recommends that you look ahead and know where you want your horse to go next. As you approach the poles, you may be able to ride straight forward or may need to pick a path through a serpentine or other obstacle that forces you to approach the poles at an angle. Keep your reining hand forward and your horse well-balanced between your legs so that you can guide his path.

Keep your legs gently pressed with your horse balanced between them to encourage forward movement toward a scary obstacle. Photo by Heidi Melocco

With a bigger log, make sure the horse’s leg moves up and over the top without brushing. Keep your hand forward and encourage the horse with your legs.

“It’s difficult for your horse because he’s trying to judge how high he needs to move to get his hind leg over. Once the horse’s first leg is over, encourage and use your cues to move the horse forward. If you stall, it’s hard to get that impulsion back.”

If the horse resists or moves sideways, Nemmers says to pick up your reining hand to get him focused on your leg cues again. If he gets a little bit sideways, think about moving forward and getting back on the tarp or back in the middle of the poles that you need to cross.

If you practice with many course configurations, keep your horse moving forward, and look where you want to go, the horse will continue to move forward over any pole obstacle you’ll see.

This article about pole work in ranch classes appeared in the March/April 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Maneuvering Poles in Ranch Horse Classes appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Gudrun Braun

What we often forget is that we humans send a wide range of signals to the horse with our body language. Body language is the interplay of posture, movement, direction of the gaze, and gestures, in combination with facial expressions. We are often not aware of these nonverbal cues and tend to give them unknowingly.

During groundwork, you must learn to use these cues deliberately. That’s the only way you’ll be able to apply your aids in a manner precise enough for the horse to understand your request and respond willingly.

You shouldn’t underestimate the fact that your moods can be easily detected by your horse. Tone of voice and body language are strongly influenced by stress, unhappiness, restlessness, anger, agitation, and fear. Naturally, these emotions can be mirrored by the horse, with obvious tension or insecurity in response to the aids, and this often results in poor performance of the task at hand.

Therefore, it’s essential that we as equestrians learn to practice self-awareness and self-reflection. When handling a horse, you must remain calm and mentally balanced, and must act controlled and level-headed, even in stressful situations.

Posture

Walk naturally and give a competent, self-assured impression that the horse is drawn to and which he follows respectfully and trustingly. Photo by Pauline von Hardenberg

◆ During groundwork, you should walk naturally upright and with light tension through your body. A deliberately straight, tense posture is as bad as a lax, sluggish one.

◆ Your head should be carried upright, with eyes forward.

◆ Your shoulders should be set parallel to the direction of travel.

◆ Most of the time, your body should be positioned at a right angle to the horse.

◆ The horse should always maintain a distance of about half an arm’s length from you.

◆ You should walk naturally, with self-confidence, and give a competent, self-assured impression that the horse is drawn to and which he follows respectfully and trustingly.

Keep your body at a right angle to your horse. Keep your head up and your shoulders square to the direction of travel, with the horse about half an arm’s length away. Photo by Pauline von Hardenberg

Movement

◆ Your movements should be smooth and uniform, not hesitant or faltering.

◆ Your pace should clearly match the rhythm of the horse’s gait.

◆ There shouldn’t be any rushing in the movement of your arms or legs.

◆ Especially while you’re walking, your arms need to be kept still; otherwise, they become driving aids.

◆ Your overall appearance to horse and observers alike should radiate self-assuredness and confidence in handling equines.

The Direction of the Gaze

◆ Your eyes should be looking ahead in the direction of travel, not at the ground.

◆ Even on bending lines or over obstacles, always look where you want to go.

◆ Try to avoid looking directly at your horse. Particularly in tense situations, this can make him feel threatened. Only in relaxed situations do horses appreciate direct eye contact.

Look ahead in the direction you want to go. Avoid looking at your horse, as this increases tension. Photo by Gudrun Braun

Gestures

◆ You should avoid unintentional movement of your arms and hands; it unsettles the horse.

◆ Your leading hand should be relaxed and slightly open. Closing it into a fist gives the horse an impression of tension.

◆ The guidance of the lead rope or the whip should always be applied in a controlled manner and slowly increase in intensity. The horse can tell which direction he’s supposed to go based on your body language. He must be able to understand the application of the aids. The aids should not suddenly startle the horse, and they should always be given with soft pressure at first.

◆ You should only apply specific cues, not create continuous noise.

◆ You should always apply touch precisely—in front of the shoulder joint, on the shoulder, on the back, or on the hindquarters, but never around the head.

◆ You should move only as much as you need to in order to act clearly and consistently, with the necessary inner calm.

The guidance of the lead rope or the whip should always be applied in a controlled manner. Photo by Gudrun Braun

Tarp & Slalom Game

Now you’re ready to try your first ground game! This sample exercise is executed at the walk.

Equipment:

◆ 5 cones

◆ 1 tarp

◆ 3 ground poles for the walk pole section

◆ 1 ground pole for the halt

◆ 11 ground poles for the U-shaped maze

◆ 30 ground pole anchors

Setup:

◆ Weaving section: cones 23 feet (7 meters) apart

◆ U-shaped maze: sides 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 meters) apart

◆ Walk poles: about 2.5 feet (0.8 meters) apart

How-to:

1. Enter at a walk, leading with the right hand on the left side of the horse.

2. Walk, tracking left, weaving through the cones on the long side.

3. Halt over the pole, and then walk off.

4. Proceed through the U-shaped maze of poles.

5. Change direction across the long diagonal, and then lead the horse over the walk poles.

6. Walk across the tarp.

7. Halt and end the exercise

This excerpt from Ground Games for Horses by Waltraud Böhmke is reprinted with permission from Trafalgar Square Books and originally appeared in the March/April 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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This brings us to one of the most common myths in horsemanship: “Just catch your horse any way you can.” Did you know your session, and its probability for success, actually starts the moment your horse sees you?

By nature, humans are predators while horses are prey animals. All horses—even domesticated ones—are naturally perceptive to people, places, changes, and things.  Horses know the safe place is with the herd, and when startled or bothered, they will fly from fear.

Think about the example I mentioned above of a horse running to greet another horse. This is how I want my horse to respond when he sees me. To create this type of bond, a change needs to take place in us first. In my 50-plus years in the equine industry, I’ve never once met a horse who went out human shopping. We’re the ones who chose them, so the privilege and responsibility lies with us to alter our approach. If someone showed up at your door every day with chocolate, flowers, and genuine kindness—no agenda, no demands—you’d probably start looking forward to seeing them.

Please understand, though, this is not about bribing your horse. This is about walking for a minute in your horse’s horseshoes. It’s your idea to catch your horse to go do _________ (fill in the blank with your desired activity or discipline). But what was your horse doing before you showed up?  Most likely hanging with his friends or in a place he feels safe, like his stall or pasture. Horses are motivated by safety, comfort, and play (in that order). If they don’t feel safe, they aren’t comfortable. And if they don’t feel safe and comfortable, it’s challenging to play or perform well.

In this day and age, time is a precious commodity. We’re often multitasking, squeezing in riding sessions between errands and school pickups or after work. In spite of this, let’s practice the Parelli Principle of “Take the time it takes so it takes less time.” You most likely already realize the importance of pairing your riding sessions with a good physical warmup and cool-down. But, have you considered a mental and emotional warmup and cool-down with your horse?

Here at Parelli, we call this undemanding time, basically the time we do more of what our horses like to do, where they feel safe. Grazing time. Hang out time. Scratches and grooming time. Practice staying intentional, meaningful, and present with your horse.  Invest in what he likes and he will be more apt to offer more of what you like.

Our goal is to teach you how to safely and effectively train your horse at home, so that both you and your horse can have more fun and achieve excellence together—creating a true partnership based on trust and mutual understanding.

I could teach you dozens of ways to catch a horse. But I’d rather teach you how to cause your horse to want to catch you.

Learn more about our digital home-study curriculum, the Levels Program, at Parelli.com.

This article appeared in the March/April 2026 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Groundwork is the foundation for effective training and significantly impacts equine behavior and performance. But you might be thinking, “I just want to ride!”

However, groundwork is far from boring when you realize how it strengthens the bond between you and your horse, enhancing communication, confidence, and trust. It is the foundation of everything you do with your horse, allowing you to understand each other better, creating a bond that makes riding even more enjoyable and effective.

At Brook Hill Farm, a horse rescue and therapeutic riding center in Virginia, the authors used Vanessa Bee’s horse agility program based on her book, The Horse Agility Handbook, to work with at-risk youth and rescue horses. Photo by Jordan Altman

Speaking Horse

Why speak to your horse from the ground, and not under saddle? Communication with a horse comes from reading his body language and having him read yours.

Though we all love to ride, when you do, your horse can’t see your body language clearly. As prey animals, they rely on subtle cues for survival. If you can tap into that horse language code, you can find a plethora of useful information.

In the wild, these subtle movements—of the ears, nostrils, eyes, mouth, tail, and feet—solidify horses’ social networks, let them live in peace with each other, and help protect them from predators. By paying attention to these signals, you can deepen your interspecies connection and have healthier, safer, and more rewarding experiences with your horse.

Domestic horses speak horse with a human accent; they adjust their language to speak to us. What horses do—whether they need to protect themselves or accept us—is directly related to how we make them feel.

Developing this communication through groundwork helps you understand your horse’s needs and emotions better, making all your interactions, including riding, more effective and enjoyable.

This challenging equine sport, started in England in 2009, is similar to dog agility. It begins by teaching the horse to lead, then to go over obstacles on the lead using body language and verbal commands, and finally completing the course at liberty using the same signals, allowing the horse to choose to participate.

Getting Started with Horse Agility

All you need is your horse, a halter, a long lead line so the horse can move freely, and some homemade obstacles. Use items you already have.

Any equine-safe object can be used to add new challenges, such as this trail course bridge. Photo by Jordan Altman

Simple Ideas for Horse Agility Obstacles

• Two cones with a tarp folded up between them for the horse to walk on
• Two poles to make a narrow chute
• Umbrellas making a chute
• Jump standards with plastic bags or balloons through the holes
• Flags in standards or cones
• Streamers strung between standards or cones
• A curtain made of streamers to walk through

Be creative. Pool noodles are our favorite! Photo by Jordan Altman

Phase 1: Leading

Start by leading your horse forward, backward, right, and left. Be able to halt. Make sure you can lead your horse without dragging him or him pulling you away. Use basic commands and consistent body language to guide the horse through a simple pattern.

Phase 2: Desensitization

Introduce your horse to obstacles gradually.

Set up a course of obstacles in the arena and let him explore the objects. Allow him to look, smell, and paw the objects. Help him learn the objects are not scary, building confidence by using lots of praise, and do not punish for spooking.

Once he is comfortable, guide him through the obstacles on the lead.

Phase 2: Allow your horse to sniff and explore the objects so his confidence grows. Photo by Jordan Altman

Phase 3: Horse Agility

Once you can complete the course successfully on the lead, turn the horse loose and see if he will follow you at liberty through the pattern. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Phase 3: Once your horse is confident leading over the obstacles, unclip your rope and watch the magic happen! Photo by Jordan Altman

So, next time you’re tempted to skip the groundwork, remember: Horse agility is the key to building confidence, unlocking a deeper connection and smoother rides—plus it’s just plain fun!

This article about horse agility appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Have Fun with Horse Agility appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

For over 40 years, Parelli Natural Horsemanship has been teaching horse lovers worldwide that true horse-man-ship can be obtained naturally using communication, understanding, and psychology versus mechanics, fear, and intimidation. Our goal is to share an effective training program that makes sense to horses, naturally.

Yet several myths persist that hinder true partnership. Let’s debunk five common horsemanship myths and misconceptions.

Myth 1: “Catch your horse any way you can.”

Did you know your session starts the moment your horse sees you? How you approach your horse and even how you put the halter on means something to him.

Humans are instinctively predators; horses are prey animals. When we rush straight at them to “catch” them, we can trigger their flight response. As the leader in the relationship, we want to create a natural attraction, so our horses become willing participants. When done right, your horse will meet you at the gate!

Myth 2: “Saddle him up and get on.”

First, we need to find out how our horse is feeling today. What side of the corral did he wake up on? Just like you have good days and bad days, so does your horse.

Make no assumptions that because your horse felt fine and you had a good ride yesterday, all will be well today. Before a pilot takes off in a plane, they always conduct pre-flight checks. The same should apply to our horse-man-ship. A few minutes of groundwork can prevent dangerous surprises in the saddle.

Myth 3: “Kick him to go.”

Riding is simple, right? After all, there’s a pedal for each foot! While leg cues are important, simply “kicking” a horse to go is counterproductive and creates dullness.

Instead, create a language by teaching your horse to respond to phases of pressure—starting with your energy first, and building to a squeeze to create understanding and willing forward motion. The result? A responsive horse who listens to whisper-light cues.

Myth 4: “Pull on him to stop.”

Horses are masters at reading and understanding body language. If phases of energy can create forward motion, the absence of energy can also mean slow down and stop.

You wouldn’t drive a car with malfunctioning brakes, and you shouldn’t ride a horse who relies on the reins to stop. Teaching your horse to respond to your seat and energy creates true self-carriage and a soft, balanced stop.

Myth 5: “Use the reins to turn.”

Horses have long bodies and humans have tall bodies. Learning to use long-body-logic means involving our entire body and energy in our communication with horses.

We influence our horses to move—on the ground and in the saddle—by turning our eyes (focus) first and then proceeding through our phases. This creates fluid, harmonious turns that feel effortless.

Join Us on This Journey

Please join us as we take a deeper dive into each of these five myths in the upcoming 2026 issues of Horse Illustrated. Our goal is to teach you how to train your horse safely and effectively at home, so that both you and your horse can have more fun and achieve excellence together, creating a true partnership based on trust and mutual understanding.

Learn more about our digital home-study curriculum, the Levels Program, at Parelli.com.

This edition of “Parelli Perspectives” about horsemanship myths appeared in the January/February 2026 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Debunking 5 Common Horsemanship Myths appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Inside you is a great rider—a rider who’s full of possibilities, potential, courage, and confidence. All you need to do is figure out how to let that inner greatness out.

Your ability to release your inner greatness depends on a series of important physical and mental skill sets. For example, you might have the world’s best leg, seat, position, and posture, but if you’re constantly freaking out, panicking, hyperventilating, and worrying before every ride, there’s a pretty good chance your brain is going to hold your body back.

Building a Complete Rider

If you’re like most equestrians, you’ve probably spent years developing your hips, heels, and hands because you know they’re a major key to your success as a rider. You’ve probably also spent countless hours developing your horse because you know that without a confident partner, there’s little chance you’ll succeed.

But I want to remind you that your puzzle is still missing a few important pieces—your head, health, and heart. Your head is where confidence, courage, self-belief, and resiliency are born. Your health is how you prepare for (and protect your body against) the physical demands of our sport. And your heart is where your ability to forgive yourself after making a mistake—or finish strong after a slow start—resides.

Combine them all together and they create the ability to turn setbacks into comebacks—to hold it together when it would be easier to let it fall apart. This is what it means to be a complete rider.

A Map for Your Riding Destination

If you want to get somewhere important, you’re going to need some pretty solid step-by-step directions to get you there. After all, when you don’t know where you’re going, you’ll probably end up somewhere else!

Maps are what you use to ensure you’ll arrive where you want to go—physically. Likewise, goals are the maps you use to ensure you’ll arrive where you want to go—mentally.

There are many different kinds of goals. Right now, I’m just going to talk about these three:

◆ Immediate goals: Goals you can complete in minutes or hours. These often act as the spark that lights the fire of desire to accomplish your goal.

◆ Progress goals: Often called “short-term” goals, these goals can be completed in days or weeks and are what allow you to achieve your final goal, one step at a time.

◆ Product goals: Often called “long-term” goals, these can be completed in months or years and will ultimately be the product of all your progress goals.

For example, say you’re a flat rider with a product goal of learning to jump. Your immediate goal might be to simply read a chapter in a jumping book by the end of the day; and your process goals might be to learn to (1) trot over poles; (2) canter over poles; (3) trot over cross-rails; and finally (4) canter over cross-rails.

Your product goal is the result of all your progress goals.

Put Your Pen Away

Setbacks are a common, and even important, part of the goal-setting process because each time you experience one, you’ll learn something you didn’t know before.

With this in mind, consider writing your goals in pencil so that each time a setback occurs, you can simply erase the original goal and replace it with a new and improved one.

Get Your Pen Back Out!

Achieving your goals can be wonderfully motivating, so each time you accomplish one, pull out a big colorful marker and cross it off.

Make Your Goals SMART

You may have heard of “SMART” goals before, but here’s a refresher on what SMART stands for.

◆ Specific: A goal like leaning to ride without stirrups is better than a goal of becoming a better rider because it’s more specific.

◆ Measurable: A goal like learning to canter is measurable because you know when you’ve accomplished it (or not).

◆ Attainable: When you identify goals that are most important to you, you begin to figure out ways you can make them come true.

◆ Realistic: To be realistic, a goal must be an objective that you’re both willing—and able—to accomplish. If it’s beyond your reach, your motivation might take a big hit.

◆ Timely: Goals need a time frame. Without one there’s no sense of urgency. When you have a complete-by date, you’ll have the motivation to chase after it. But you’d better hurry!

Try This

Create something called a goal-setting ladder. Start by drawing a six-step ladder with a product goal written on the top step and an immediate goal on the bottom step. Next, fill in the remaining four steps with a series of achievable process goals.

The purpose of this ladder is to show you how to reach your goals, one step at a time.

This excerpt from Fit & Focused in 52 by Coach Daniel Stewart appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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The Gaucho Derby—deemed the “greatest test of horsemanship on Earth”—challenges riders’ wilderness survival and navigational skills as they race through of a network of estancias in the wilds of Patagonia (not to mention the test of camping outside each night).   

And for those brave enough to attempt it, these races are life-changing.

How Jessie Dowling’s Derby Preparation Began

In 2022, 40-year-old Jessie Dowling, an industrious cheesemaker and dairy farmer in Whitefield, Maine, was listening to a podcast while milking sheep and goats—unaware that soon she would embark on her own life-changing adventure, competing in the 2023 Mongol Derby.  

As president of the Maine Cheese Guild and owner of Fuzzy Udder Creamery, Dowling’s schedule was grueling. The pandemic forced her to think about where her life was going as a farmer and her happiness. She began spending more time with her horses—riding, training, attending clinics—and listening to podcasts.  

“I had heard of the Mongol Derby but thought it was for professional riders—I’m a backyard rider” Dowling says. “But on Warwick Schiller’s podcast, Stevie Delahunt talked about signing up for her Mongol Derby boot camp in Oregon—and I decided to do it.”

Dowling applied for the Mongol Derby, trained with endurance riders in Maine, completed her first limited-distance ride in 2022, and interviewed for the Mongol Derby the following day. “I told them I completed my first distance ride, was signed up for the Mongol boot camp, and they said I was in.”  

“I had zero endurance riding experience,” Dowling says. “I arrive at boot camp in Oregon; Warwick Schiller is there training for the Gaucho Derby. I went from listening to his podcasts in my milking parlor to riding Arabians with him.”

Falling in love with Arabians in the process, Dowling immediately acquired an Arabian gelding, Jelly Bean, as her new Mongol Derby training partner. “He has taught me so much about staying present, reading a horse’s energy, and regulating my energy.” 

Jessie Dowling and Jelly Bean. Photo by Julie Maddock

Her year-long Derby preparation included running, yoga, completing farm chores wearing a hydration pack, using a balance board to strengthen muscles, and a three-day intensive riding clinic with Solange Ellis. “She totally changed how I ride with biomechanic adjustments—sitting a gallop and riding in stable positions for long periods.”

The Mongolian steppe is covered with little marmot holes. “I learned how to sit back as the horse falls into a marmot hole, picks themselves up, and keeps going,” Dowling says. She also learned to ride Western and fast over all terrain. “You’re galloping for miles at a time.”   

In addition to improving these various riding skills, Dowling took Mongolian language lessons and carefully planned her gear.

“You’re only allowed 11 pounds,” Dowling says. “I had a little saddle bag, a hydration pack, med kit, water purification tablets, snacks, two sets of clothes, rain gear, and comfortable hiking shoes.” She traveled to Mongolia and arrived at the starting line.  

The Adventure Begins

“On an average day, the topography changes a lot—mountains, lakes, rivers, rolling hills, grasslands,” Dowling says. “You pass freely roaming cows, sheep, goats, horses, a herd of camels.”  

Dowling gallops past a herd of sheep and goats. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Riding 12 hours a day works up an appetite. There’s no Panera along the route; Dowling quickly adapted to the local food provided by host families at the urtuu—the horse stations. “The diet is one of the hardest parts,” Dowling says. “They eat parts of the sheep that we don’t normally eat—intestines or sheep face.” She often snacked on traditional meat pies throughout the day.  

The race rules are strictly enforced, prioritizing the horses’ well-being and the riders’ safety. “Race hours start at 7 a.m. and end at 7 p.m. If you arrive at a horse station by 7 p.m., you give your horse back to the herder, enjoy some food, and sleep in a ger. But if it’s 5 p.m. and you realize you can’t make it to the next station by 7 p.m., you must find a random ger to stay in. But hospitality is huge in Mongolian culture—they usually invite you to stay and feed you if you show up at a ger.” 

Dowling and fellow riders enjoy dinner with a Mongolian family in a traditional ger. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

On day five, Dowling came off her horse while attempting to put on a rain jacket. She was unable to get back on her flighty mount. “We were walking and walking; I couldn’t find a ger,” Dowling says. “I had to stop at 7 p.m. or else get penalized. So I watched the sunset with my horse; it was beautiful.” She messaged the vet who came to complete the required check on her horse, who she helped Dowling get water and find a ger to stay in that night. Per race rules, Dowling incurred a 2-hour penalty for receiving assistance.  

You Get the Derby You Need

A network of Mongolian herders provide hundreds of horses for the race. 

“You ride 29 different horses during the race,” Dowling says. “It’s a lottery which horse you get. Each horse goes 40 km (25 miles). At each horse station, a vet checks the horse’s heart rate. It must come down to 56 bpm within a half hour. They have the highest standards of ethical welfare for a horse. The vet checks the horse’s gut sounds and gait. A rider gets penalized if there’s any problem with the horse. You can’t override your horse. The race taught me how to rate a horse—a horse will help you know its fitness if you really listen to it.”  

At horse station 2, Dowling kisses her horse goodbye, returning him to his proud owner. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Horse’s temperaments are another challenge many riders face during the journey, but this was an area in which Dowling shined.

“Some had trouble with their horse being spicy, but my superpower is that I love every horse I come across” Dowling says. “So, I would just take a deep breath, tell them that I loved them, find the spot they liked to be scratched, and connect with them.”

Dowling lets her horse stop for a drink on day three. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

As for expectations, be prepared to be humbled. 

“People say you don’t get the Derby you want—you get the Derby you need,” Dowling says. Although she never reached her breaking point, day eight came close. “It’s mostly geldings—just a handful of stallions. On day eight, I pulled a stallion. Never riding a stallion before, I was a bit nervous. I headed out with other riders, tried to keep up, but he kept going slower. It was like he had never cantered before. Then we were down to a slow trot. Then a walk. I’m now the last rider. And if you get too far behind, you’ll get kicked out of the race.

“So I arrive at the only town on the race, and after eating boiled mutton face for a week, I had hopes of joining other riders at a café for chips and a beer… no other riders were there. Then my stallion would not walk over the bridge leaving town. An interpreter nearby helped by leading me across the bridge like I was on a pony ride. And he takes a picture. It was so embarrassing.

“At the next station, my horse checks out fine. I check the hospitality ger—all the food is gone. I just burst into tears. I took a deep breath, headed out to the horse line, and I picked number five. The herder had been waiting for someone to pick his prized horse all day. And I end up getting on the fastest horse! And that boy and I went straight out, galloping across the desert steppe, passed other riders, arrived at the next station less than two hours later, and I was back in the race.”

 Talk about getting the Derby you need.

“That day was the worst and best part of the race,” Dowling says. “I was hungry, demoralized, tired—but never gave up.” 

Leaving station 28, Jessie gallops across the Mongolian steppe towards the finish line. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Forty-three riders started the race, only 25 finished, and Dowling placed 13th. She says the experience was life-changing. “I went from an intermediate rider to an advanced rider. Spending 12 hours a day in the saddle on difficult horses, I feel light years ahead in my riding,” Dowling says. “So I got home. The next week, our farm’s cheese wins Best in Show at the Maine Cheese Festival, but I felt hollow inside. I realized this wasn’t what I wanted to do anymore.” 

She promptly sold her business to pursue an equestrian career full-time—with zero regrets.

Dowling accepts ceremonial milk at the finish line. Photo courtesy The Equestrianists

Dowling celebrated by riding the Tevis Cup—a 100-mile, one-day race in California. She opened Iron Ledge Farm, offering lessons and endurance training. Dowling visited Argentina to start training for her next adventure—the Gaucho Derby, which runs from February 18 to 28, 2026. Because the Gaucho Derby involves camping along the route, Dowling is figuring out how to pack a tent, stove, camping gear, and riding essentials in a saddle bag weighing no more than 22 pounds. “The Mongol Derby is the longest race in the world, but the Gaucho Derby has been called the toughest.”  

 And if anyone is up for the challenge, it’s Jessie Dowling.

Learn more about Jessie Dowling and her equine adventures by visiting ironledgefarm.com and following her on Facebook.   

This article about Jessie Dowling’s Mongol Derby is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How Jessie Dowling’s Mongol Derby Adventure Paved the Way to More appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Eucerin Oil Control Sun Gel-Cream SPF 50+

When you’re on vacation, there’s little time to wait for your sunscreen to dry before you blast off to the barn or beach. This dry-touch facial sunblock for oily, acne-prone skin ensures you don’t have to delay, so dirt is less likely to stick to it. An added bonus? It’s extra water- and sweat-resistant.

Available for $19.58 on caretobeauty.com.

Blundstone Chelsea No. 550

Iconic for a reason, Blundstone boots mold to your feet and wear like iron; they’re made of durable, double-stitched leather. The Chelsea No. 550 boot offers outstanding, lightweight shock absorption. Pull tabs make sure you can get them on quickly and easily.

Available for $209.95 on blundstone.com.

Hydaway Collapsible Travel Bottle

A collapsible water bottle ensures you stay hydrated without weighing you down. Collapses to a 1.5-inch disc and holds 17 ounces of water when expanded (a 25-ounce option is also available). Dishwasher safe, it’s made of food-grade silicone and BPA-free plastic. Available in a variety of colors.

Available for $29.95 on shop.myhydaway.com.

Helmet Brims Horseback Riding Standard Brim Sun Visor

The Helmet Brims Riding Sun Visor blocks both the sun and the rain without blocking your vision. Lightweight and easy to fit onto your helmet using velcro and elastic, this visor is made with Australian shade cloth that ensures high sun protection while also being exceptionally durable and offering a bit of visibility. Various trim color options.

Available for $46.95 from ridingwarehouse.com.

Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30

Whether you’re in the rain or in the wind, Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30 is the perfect moisturizing lip balm. Offering both UVA and UVB protection, this cocoa butter-infused balm is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.

4-count available for $9.99 on amazon.com.

Body Glide Anti-Chafe Stick

Keep your thighs and backside chafe-free no matter how long you spend in the saddle with Body Glide Anti Chafe Stick. Sweat- and water-resistant, this easy-to-apply balm creates an invisible barrier to protect skin from rubbing, chafing, pinching, and other irritants.

Available from $5.49 to $16.99 on bodyglide.com.

Ariat VentTEK Stretch Shirt

Wear-tested and ready to ride, the button-front shirt offers UV protection and VentTEK side panels for air flow. Its moisture-wicking technology is designed for optimal comfort in any weather, ensuring you look good no matter how long you ride.

Available for $58.95 on ariat.com.

Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers

It’s not always your seat bones that get sore when you’re spending hours on end in the saddle. Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers reduce pressure around the pubic bones, ensuring more even weight distribution and a comfortable, safer seat. Available in western, dressage and jumping options.

Price varies by model; purchase on acavallo.com.

This article about trail and marathon riding essentials appeared in the January/February 2025  issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Trail and Marathon Riding Essentials appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Svetlana/Adobe Stock

“Knowing how bits should sit and fit in a horse’s mouth could help avoid serious problems and setbacks—I suggest using a bit-sizer to start,” says Alan Fisher, a champion trainer with over 20 years’ experience based in Eastover, N.C., who specializes in western pleasure prospects.

He says that riders need to learn the control points of different bits, the mechanics behind mouthpieces, and what exactly should be achieved with each type of bit.

A bit sizer is great to have as the first step in finding the right bit for your horse. Photo by Laura Boynton Jobson

Snaffles vs. Ported

There are two important categories of bits: ported (leverage) and snaffle (direct action).

Ported or “correction” bits come in low, medium, and high leverage levels, and feature an inverted curve, U-shape, spoon-shape, square-hinge or spade-shape at the center of the mouthpiece. These shapes provide tongue pressure relief. Western bits have shanks that connect the reins to the bit, which vary from 4 to 8 inches long.

Western curb bits have many styles of shanks, metals, and mouthpieces to choose from.

Both English and western ported bits come with a chain or curb strap to stop the bit from harming a horse’s mouth.

Snaffle bits work by direct pressure from the ring to the rider’s hand through the rein, and either type of bit can be made from stainless steel, copper, titanium, sweet iron or aluminum. Some mild snaffles are made of plastic, rubber, leather or fabric material.

Snaffle bits use direct action from the rein. Full-cheek rings help guide and turn the horse. Photo by Nigel Baker/Adobe Stock

Snaffle Cheek Pieces

While ported bits always have a shank cheek, there are several common styles of cheek rings in snaffles, each with a different effect.

◆ Loose rings move with the horse’s lips, tongue and jaw by gliding through the attached mouthpiece.

◆ Full cheeks have two short bars coming off the sides, one on top and one on the bottom of the fixed mouthpiece. This bit is useful for young or inexperienced horses who need help with steering or to learn how to carry their head without tilting.

◆ D-ring and eggbutt snaffles are both fixed options that resemble the letter D or an oval-egg shape. These are less likely to move side to side in the mouth.

Snaffle Mouthpieces

As opposed to the mouthpieces described above for ported bits, snaffles have straight mouthpieces with various shapes and joints.

◆ Non-jointed snaffles have a mouthpiece that’s straight across with no breaks in the metal, rubber or plastic.

◆ Single-jointed snaffles are considered a basic, and feature a break in the bit with a joint in the middle that creates a V-shape in a horse’s mouth that puts rein pressure on the bars of the jaw and edges of the tongue.

◆ Double-jointed snaffles follow the shape of the tongue better than a single-jointed bit. They have two joints that connect the sides of the bit with a central link.

◆ Smooth snaffles are on the milder side and work well with sensitive mouths and for beginners who aren’t as gentle on a horse’s mouth.

◆ Twisted-wire snaffles are considered more severe and are commonly used for horses that tend to hang or pull on the rider’s hands, or when more control is needed, such as galloping cross-country.

◆ Roller bits have movable pieces that rotate and help a horse to relax his mouth and jaw.

Combo Action

English riders sometimes use leverage bits combined with snaffle action.

◆ Double bridles have a curb bit and chain, a snaffle bit with small loose rings called a bradoon, and two sets of reins. They are used in upper-level dressage and show jumping, as well as saddle seat riding.

◆ Pelham bits are most often found in hunter rings, on foxhunters, and on the polo field, and are designed to combine the action of a curb bit with a snaffle, like a double bridle.

This bit provides leverage on the jaw with its lower shanks and curb chain to encourage flexion at the poll and stronger brakes, while the snaffle mouthpiece gives turning control.

Pelhams are usually used with two sets of reins, although “converters” are available for beginners that switch the bit to one set of reins—but these negate much of the bit’s action.

Pelhams combine leverage and snaffle action using two sets of reins. Photo by Janet/Adobe Stock

Soft Feel

Western trainer Shawn Alter shares that nerves and being scared is why most riders have heavy hands and tend to use the bit too aggressively.

“You must take the time to practice and gain the muscle memory of going to the horse’s mouth softly, asking first, and giving him a chance to respond while softening with your fingers to create a nice flow without any yanking,” says Alter, who owns Shawn Alter Quarter Horses in New Alexander, Pa., and specializes in showing, training, selling and judging horses for local and open shows.

“To be an efficient and well-rounded rider, you’ll need to learn to ride more with your seat and legs, and have less pull on the reins.”

A Bit Reactive

“Horses often learn to be angry at the bit when they feel rushed or pushed beyond their abilities,” says all-around Quarter Horse trainer Melissa Jones, who owns Jones Performance Horses along with her husband, Chris, in Reelsville, Ind. “Horses who haven’t learned to give to the bit or choose not to give tend to turn defensive and act out.”

The more you are heavy-handed or jerk on a horse’s mouth, the more the horse will want to get away from that pressure, she says.

“Not leaning on a snaffle is important because our goal is for the horse not to lean on the bit, and holding will reinforce that.”

Releasing Pressure

Trainer Alyse Roberts says that releasing bit pressure as a reward is key for teaching a horse to self-carry correctly.

“I’d rather see a rider who releases hand pressure too soon rather than too late,” says Roberts, who owns Alyse Roberts Performance Horses located in Purcell, Okla., and specializes in all breed hunter under saddle. “Hanging on the bit defeats the purpose and can upset a horse who is trying to do his job, but the rider keeps getting in the way.”

Dental Check-Up

All-around trainer and judge Jamie Dowdy says that it’s critical to rule out physical discomfort in the mouth, which gives the impression of bit trouble.

“A yearly dental exam is needed, especially in young horses, as they can be experiencing mouth and teeth soreness due to shedding baby caps and possible wolf teeth,” says Dowdy of Hartman Farms, a Quarter Horse facility in Marshfield, Mo. “Older horses need routine dentals for preventative measures to stay ahead of any developing problems.”

Just walking into a tack store and looking at the wall of bits can seem daunting. Our bit experts all mentioned that having an experienced trainer guide the transition to a new bit is a smart way to set your horse up for steering, control and—most importantly—communication success.

This article about bits appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post All About Bits appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Cavan for Adobe/Adobe Stock

2022 Fort Worth Extreme Mustang Makeover Champion and horse trainer Camille White uses groundwork as a tool to help her learn more about a horse, and shares with us one of her favorite exercises.

Using Groundwork to Build Trust

In White’s experience, groundwork is an essential part of building trust with a horse. When on the ground, you have a good read of your horse’s facial expressions and can observe how he is carrying himself. She adds that it can be helpful to see a horse’s reaction to something from the ground before observing it from the saddle.

One of her favorite get-to-know-you groundwork activities is a longeing exercise that teaches the horse how to relax and involves both sensitizing and desensitizing components. White describes “sensitizing” as getting a horse sensitive to cues and teaching him how to move his body, while “desensitizing” is teaching a horse to accept new and scary things.

She explains that many of a horse’s opinions, personality, and coping mechanisms become apparent when he is moving, making this a great exercise to help you learn how your horse thinks and what things he prefers.

“It’s a lot harder for horses to hide what they’re thinking when they’re moving, as opposed to standing still,” says White.

When teaching the exercise, White says to be clear and consistent with your horse by communicating the same way every time. By doing this, he will learn what he can and can’t expect from you, and his trust in you will grow. 

The Exercise

The following steps outline a two-part longeing exercise that White uses to get to know the horses she works with. To perform this exercise, you will need a rope halter, a 12-to-16-foot lead rope, and a flag.

Photos by Shoshana Rudski

Part One: Sensitizing

Step 1: Walk to the middle of the arena. Have your horse stand at the end of the lead rope, facing you. Hold the rope in the hand you will use to point in the direction you want him to go. Hold the flag in your other hand.

Step 1.

Step 2: Ask the horse to move by using your rope hand to point in the direction you want him to go. The horse should move his shoulders away from you and start to walk in a circle around you. Keep your feet planted. Once the horse moves in the direction you pointed, relax your rope hand to let him know he responded correctly.

Problem solving: If the horse doesn’t move after you point, increase the pressure of your ask by wiggling the flag toward his shoulder. If there is still no movement, tap his shoulder with increasing pressure until he moves in the direction you asked. If the horse moves in the wrong direction, keep applying steady pressure until he steps in the correct direction. Once he responds correctly, drop your flag hand and relax your rope hand.

Step 3: Allow the horse to keep moving forward. Once you ask him to walk in a circle around you, he should continue walking until asked to stop or given another command.

Problem solving: When learning the exercise, your horse may walk a few steps, then stop and face you. If this happens, repeat step 2 until he walks on the circle without stopping.

Steps 2 and 3.

Step 4: Ask the horse to stop. Once he understands step 3, teach him to stop by sliding your rope hand up the rope and taking one step toward the horse’s hindquarters. He should move his hindquarters away and turn to face you. In response, walk to the horse and rub his face to let him know he responded correctly.

Problem solving: If the horse doesn’t move away after you take a step toward him, take another step toward the hindquarters. Keep walking toward the hindquarters until he stops and turns to face you. White notes that you may need to step toward the hindquarters and wave the flag when first teaching this step.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2-4 in opposite direction.

Step 5.

Part Two: Desensitizing

Once your horse understands how to complete part one going both directions, it’s time to introduce a final step to the exercise.

Step 6: Ask your horse to walk in a circle around you like you did for step 2. Then, reach out with the flag and gently rub his shoulder while the horse is walking. He should stay relaxed at the walk while the flag rubs his shoulder.

Problem solving: If your horse jumps or speeds up when the flag moves toward his shoulder, bring the flag back and keep it at the distance where he started to get nervous. Once he relaxes, take the flag away. Wait a bit, then re-introduce the flag and attempt to bring it closer than last time. Repeat this process and bring the flag closer each time you re-introduce it.

Step 6.

If your horse stops or freezes when the flag touches him, return to steps 2 and 3 before attempting to rub his shoulder with the flag again.

Getting to Know You

Humans don’t become experts on each other after one meeting, and neither do humans and horses. Getting to know a horse takes time and effort.

Whether your horse is a carrot cruncher that loves to cross creeks or a grain gobbler that prefers a slow stroll, groundwork can be a great tool to help you learn more about him.

This article about using groundwork exercises to get to know your horse appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Get to Know Your Horse with These Groundwork Exercises appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.