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English Horse Training

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English Training

Hunter Jumper

Hunter Jumper

Whether you crave the thrill of the jumper ring or are drawn to the elegance of hunters, this is the place for those who love to jump.

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Eventing

Eventing

From the elegance of dressage to the thrill of cross-country and the excitement of stadium jumping, this is the place to learn more about three-day eventing.

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Endurance

Endurance

It’s not just a casual trail ride. Learn about conditioning, preparation, and long-distance riding from experts in the sport of endurance.

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Dressage

Dressage

Whether you use dressage as a training tool at home or you’re working on competitive goals, you’ll find all the info you need here.

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Saddle Seat

Saddle Seat

Find all the info you need for riding, training and showing your high-stepping saddle seat horse..

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English Expert

English Training Experts

Need advice on jumping, dressage or other English riding topics? Our team of expert trainers and judges is here to help you out.

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HorseChannel.com’s Terms of Use

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Seven Tips for Preventing Colic

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Grazing Horse
1. Routine: Keeping a consistent daily routine is important for horses. Any change in a horse’s routine can lead to digestive upset. Feed at the same time each day and turn out for the same number of hours daily. 

2. Institute Feed Changes Gradually: If you are going to switch from one feed brand to another, for instance from timothy to alfalfa, do it slowly. Mix the two feeds together for a week or so while gradually removing the old feed and increasing the new.

3. Monitor Your Horse’s Environment: Keep an eye on the field! If the apple tree is loaded, you might think about limiting Trigger’s time out in that field. If it is the first bloom of lush green grass in the spring, introduce your horses to it gradually. If a storm brings a lot of tree limbs and other debris into the pasture, clean it up.

4. Deworm Your Horses On a Regular Schedule: A gut full of parasites can cause bellyaches. Having to kill off too many parasites at once can also cause a bellyache. It’s best to not let it get out of hand in the first place. With the ease of administering today’s paste dewormers, there is no reason not to deworm on a regular basis. Speak with your veterinarian about a good deworming schedule for a horse residing in your part of the country.

5. Float Those Teeth: Veterinarians and equine dentists are available options to float your horse’s teeth. When the teeth are left unattended, they develop sharp points that can cause ulcers in your horse’s mouth. Also, you want your horse to have the greatest grinding surface available so that he can get that food in the best digestible condition possible before sending it south to his stomach.

6. Keep The Feed Room Door Locked: Have your feed in containers the horses can’t break into should the door be left open. Gorging on any sort of feedstuff will give horses colic. A serious grain-overload colic will be followed by a terrible case of laminitis (founder), all of which is avoidable if the feed room door is kept locked.

7. Water, Water Everywhere: Horses need clean, fresh potable water available at all times. Don’t forget to keep the water tub in the field clean and filled. Also, the stall should have at least one large automatic waterer or large bucket available. Remember, horses are not evolutionarily adapted to drinking solid water. For that matter, our equine friends aren’t all that fond of very cold water. In order to avoid a fecal impaction, provide water above 50 degrees at all times.

Liked this article? Here are others you’ll enjoy:
Colic Surgery Guide
Acupressure for Colic
When to Call the Vet

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Jim Belushi, the star of TV’s “According to Jim,” is used to giving interviews. But his favorite was one that didn’t focus on him but his dogs.

“I did an Animal Planet interview where I took my dogs out and showed them all the tricks I had taught my dogs,” says the actor, who owns two German Shepherd Dogs, Truly Scrumptious and Choo Choo Train, in an interview with the Chicago Sun-Times. “It was my favorite interview to do. But you have to understand, I love animals. I mean, I love dogs. So to be on Animal Planet is like a big deal for me.”

Still, the famously raunchy comedian doesn’t hesitate to mention one of the downsides of dog ownership. “I’ve picked up more [poop] than you can imagine,” he says. “After 15 years of owning dogs, I’ve become a very good doctor, by the way. I can tell you how they’re feeling by their poop.”

News article title
Dateline/description goes here More >>

Riding After Deworming

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Horseback Riding

Q: I have a 12-year-old gelding on a regular deworming program (I rotate ivermectin, pyrantel pamoate, fenbendazole, and praziquantel/ivermectin) and he’s very healthy*. Is there any problem with exercising him on the same day that I deworm? Should he get some time off after deworming?

A: For a horse that has been on a regular, well-balanced deworming program, there is no reason why you cannot exercise him on the day the dewormer is administered. The word “regular” conveys a meaning of at least several times a year. Depending on stocking rates (horses per acre) and management, most horses benefit from deworming at least every three months. The chemicals that you have listed are excellent choices and should be quite effective in reducing parasites in your horse.

If your horse had not been dewormed in a long time, particularly if he were quite young, there would be a slight risk of colic after deworming due to a heavy parasite load being expelled. In that scenario, it might be advisable to give the horse that day off after deworming, or consider a half dose of a fenbendazole product, to avoid killing large numbers of ascarid parasites at once. This half dose would then ideally be followed up within several days with an ivermectin or moxidectin dewormer.

*Editor’s Note: Since this article was originally published, a standard rotation is no longer recommended. Read more about current deworming science here.

Julia H. Wilson, DVM, Diplomate, ACVIM, associate professor & division head, Large Animal Medicine, Veterinary Population Medicine, College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Minnesota.

 

The Making of a Cow Horse

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In the Old West tradition, horses earned their keep when gathering and trailing cattle on the open range. In fact, getting a herd of cattle to market in those days took a top hand mounted on a horse with plenty of cow sense.

Hollywood has helped perpetuate a myth that horses and cows go together like peanut butter and jelly, but most horse people know better. Truth be told, most horses today have never been exposed to cattle, so they have a tendency to react toward cows more like water does to oil.

Cattle and Horse
Untitled by Smerika via flickr/CC BY-SA 2.0

However, there is good news. “The way the horse reacts at first doesn’t have much to do with the way he ends up being,” says C.L. Collins, who resides on the Twenty Two Ranch in Harrison, Ark. He was raised in a ranching family in west Texas where he grew up working livestock from horseback. Over the years he’s successfully competed in various cattle events such as calf and steer roping, with cutting as his main interest, and has earned more than $50,000 in his lifetime effort in the sport. “Making a cow horse is a very long process; the horse will have plenty of time to make changes in his attitude toward cattle,” Collins says.

While all horses are not equal in natural cow sense, practically any horse, on some level, can be trained to work with cattle. “Any horse can be used to work cows, but some horses never get cow savvy,” Collins says. All in all, it’s the trainer’s job to help his animal develop into a good working horse.

Just as anything else in training, introducing your horse to cattle and developing in him the ability to work cows is a step-by-step process.

Before introducing your horse to cattle, he should have a good handle of the basics under saddle. “The horse needs to move and stop on command without hesitation and without resistance,” Collins says. “But, I think lots of horses do very well if they learn to be a broke horse while working cattle. The cow gives them a reason to stop and turn. For this reason I like to start working with a horse around cattle as soon as the horse is green broke well enough to take him to where the cattle are. A horse that is too well trained might have the tendency to wait for the rider’s cue rather than respond to the cow on his own.”

However, the average horse owner might find broader success if they start with a broke horse that has a good stop on him and responds well to both rein and leg pressure at the walk, jog and lope.

Horse, Meet Cow

Some horses are curious and will actually want to approach cows, while others have an earnest desire to get as far away from them as possible. Since you may not know how your horse will react to cows, the best way to introduce them to him is in a safe manner, possibly where you can, to some degree, control his reaction. As an additional caution, avoid bulls. “I have worked cattle of all ages and sexes, including bulls,” Collins says. “Bulls can be unpredictable.” It is wiser for the beginner to only work with steers and gentle cows until both horse and rider have gained a fair amount of cow savvy.

One method might be to turn your horse loose in a safely constructed arena or pen with a single cow and let him become acquainted with her on his own. However, in this situation you have very little control over how your horse handles the introduction.

Riding out with a group of cow savvy horses and riders to a pasture with cattle is another way to introduce your horse to cows. Depending on how comfortable, or uncomfortable, your horse is around cattle will govern just how close you’ll be able to ride to the cows in the beginning.

Your goal when introducing your horse to cattle is to get him calm and comfortable. “A nervous horse doesn’t learn much,” Collins says. Giving your nervous horse something else to think about while riding with cattle will help. To keep up with, and eventually control, a wily ol’ cow, your horse will need to be supple both laterally and horizontally, so this is a good time to work at relaxing his poll and loosening up his shoulders. Your warm-up should also include executing smooth transitions between all three gaits as well as stops, turns and leg yields.

Warning: Be cautious when working your horse in a pasture. Grazing land, unlike an arena, may have many concealed hazards, so carefully check the terrain for rodent holes, parts of old farm equipment and old wire fences hidden in the grass before you begin working your horse.

In the beginning, your horse may be troubled with the presence of the cows and will give less of his attention to you than he does the cattle. This is fine; it gives you the opportunity to draw his attention back to what you want. Each time his attention wanders, bring it back by asking for a change in direction or speed.

“If the horse is nervous, I often turn him around, maybe once, maybe 10 times,” Collins says. “I’ll do it until the horse is relaxed and paying attention to what I’m telling him instead of what he was nervous about.”

As you continue working with your horse, slowly close the gap until you’re able to ride near the herd without him feeling troubled and losing his concentration.

An alternative approach to introducing your horse to cows is to use pens or an arena. “Because cattle tend to stop in corners, the best pens to work with cattle are round,” Collins says. “Solid pen walls are preferred over other fencing, but any fence that will contain the cattle is adequate,” Collins explains. “I have used pens as small in diameter as 80 feet and as big as 180 feet, but my favorite size, if I am alone in the pen, would be 100 feet. If another rider is in the pen with me, a good size area would be 120 to 150 feet.” Keep in mind that the smaller the pen the more pressure there will be on the cow, thus that same pressure will transmit to the horse. “For this reason, a larger pen is better for either an inexperienced horse or an inexperienced rider,” Collins explains.

Start out by placing a group of cows in a small enclosure at one end of a pen where your horse can easily see them, then ride your horse into the opposite end, and begin by warming him up, such as was suggested when working in the pasture scenario. When your horse is able to hold his concentration on you while riding along the fence where the cows are held, it’s time to go one-on-one with a cow.

Building Cow Interest

At this point you’ll actually want your horse to hold his attention on the cow rather than you. You are merely along for the ride and to encourage your horse to watch and follow a cow.

If you are riding in a pasture, you may have a tougher time pursuing a single cow, since cows have a tendency to bunch together when they feel light pressure from a horse and rider. In the pen situation, you’ll find it’s easier.

Regardless of where you ride, your objective for this training session is to build the desire in your horse to watch a cow and move when she does. To do this, ride your horse forward until the cow feels just enough pressure to move off, then direct your horse to follow. At this point in the training, the cow should determine the direction of travel, while you will simply direct your horse to follow, called “trailing” the cow.

When the cow stops, rein your horse to a stop and allow him to watch the cow for a few moments. If your horse looks away from the cow, use the direct rein and pull his head back in the direction of the cow. In this instance, the direct rein is the rein closest to the cow. When the cow moves, ask your horse to again trail the cow. When first introducing a horse to working cattle, riding two handed will make it easier for him to understand your rein cues and what you are asking him to do.

Continue this line of guidance until your horse begins to acknowledge the cow on his own. In other words, your horse begins to “move with the cow” with fewer and fewer directional aids from you.

Controlling the Cow

Once your horse is trailing the cow well on his own, it’s time to begin taking control of the cow’s direction of travel and speed. Begin by “tracking” the cow, that is, ride parallel to the cow rather than behind her.

Walk your horse into the cow to get her moving along the fence, then rein your horse to move up parallel with the cow. If your horse tries to slow down in order to slip back behind the cow, as he did when trailing, you’ll have to cue him with your direct leg (the leg closest to the cow) in order to hold him in position, and put enough forward pressure on him to maintain speed.

Tracking can be performed at varying distances from the cow. The closer you ride to the cow the more pressure you place on her—she’ll take action by either speeding up or stopping and changing directions. In other words, the cow’s movement all depends on your horse’s relative position to her. This is where your own cow smarts come into play. (See  “Are You Cow Savvy?” on pg. 106)

A position behind the cow’s eye will initiate forward movement. On the other hand, riding toward the front of the cow’s head will challenge her and cause her to turn or stop. But how do you hold a cow?

“The surest way to hold a cow is to take the pressure off,” Collins explains. “The cow moves because the horse is closer to her than she feels comfortable with. If we want a cow to stop, we put more distance between her and the horse. How much distance depends on the individual cow and her own comfort zone. Often we can do this and still maintain a position that allows us to control the cow.”

Working a Herd

If you’ve been riding in a pasture of cattle your horse is slightly ahead of the game, but if you’ve been using the pen system, and your horse has gained sufficient experience and confidence with a single cow, it’s time to ride him into a herd. While your horse may have been comfortable one-on-one with a cow, walking into a herd of cattle may intimidate him.

Bring a small herd of cows into the training pen and start by riding at a walk in a wide circle around them. When your horse appears relaxed with this, step him closer to the herd in increasingly smaller circles. Next, rein into and through the middle of the herd. Try to split the herd by continuing to walk straight through it. Circle the herd once more to bring the cattle back together, then rein your horse back through the center again. Continue this exercise until your horse is completely comfortable moving through the herd.

As your horse progresses, ride through the center of the herd and stop in the middle of it for a few moments before proceeding to the opposite side. Next time you might try peeling a single cow from the herd, and keeping her separated by tracking her around the pen.

Remember that introducing your horse to cattle should be a pleasant experience for him. In order to build his confidence and interest, start slow. Once your horse realizes that he can actually control a herd of cattle, he’ll become an enthusiastic partner and solid working cow horse.

Further Reading
Test Riding a Cutting Horse
Team Penning

Kim and Kari Baker are identical twins who raise Appaloosas on their ranch in Montana.

Entry-Level Eventing

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Can you keep your horse on the bit through basic dressage movements? Is he comfortable negotiating difficult terrain while hacking out? Can he handle a course of small jumps with ease? If you answered yes to all three, you’ve probably considered eventing. If you’re not already involved in this exciting sport, here’s your chance to give it a try.

In January 2005, the United States Eventing Association (USEA) recognized a new introductory level called Beginner Novice. As explained in the 2005 USEA rulebook, “the Beginner Novice level is designed to introduce green horses and riders to horse trials … the entire experience should be safe, inviting and educational.”

Beginner Novice Cross-Country

Beginner Novice jumps cannot exceed 2’7″—and that’s a big step down from the sport’s next level, Novice, where the jumps reach 2’11”. The Beginner Novice dressage tests ask for walk, trot, canter, with a figure no more demanding than a 20-meter circle, plus a required halt at the test’s conclusion. The cross-country course is short—about four minutes of moderate cantering—and offers 14 – 18 straightforward and inviting jumps, including a bank up, a water crossing and a shallow ditch. The show jumping test requires nine to 11 fences with only one two-stride combination allowed.

Does this sound like a challenge within your reach? As the USEA’s executive director Jo Whitehouse says, “We welcome everybody who in their hearts consider themselves eventers to give our sport a try.”

Not for Beginners

Despite the name, Beginner Novice is not actually intended for beginning riders. The USEA rulebook suggests that Beginner Novice is “designed for competitors and horses that have already had experience at schooling competitions in all three disciplines.”

Well-known event trainer and national and international eventing judge Jane Hamlin from Cornish, N.H., makes sure her riders have solid basic positions and are firmly in control outside arena walls before she lets them start cross-country work. “I want to see a rider canter from point A to point B in an open field before I throw a jump into the mix,” she says. “Control is always an issue. I want to see them ride safely off the manicured paths and work up and down slopes before we start cross-country work.”

One of the best ways to try out cross-country is to sign up for a hunter pace. Here you’ll ride a prescribed course through hunt country, jumping optional fences in a relaxed manner. Since a hunter pace isn’t judged, you can trot fences or even skip the ones you don’t feel ready for. Try to find a riding buddy with an experienced cross-country horse to guide you, so you’ll have a lead over any fence you feel nervous about.

Schooling Events

Events not recognized by the USEA—often called schooling events—offer a terrific educational challenge for would-be eventers. These can be found across the country and are often run by the same organizers who manage official USEA events.

One of these organizers is Laurie Hudson, who manages Hitching Post Farm in South Royalton, Vt. Laurie runs one recognized event in May but offers schooling shows throughout the summer at her farm.

“We run our schooling trials following the same rules and guidelines as recognized events,” Laurie says. “But things are a little more relaxed. It’s a great place for a first-timer.” The cost is usually slightly lower, too; unrecognized events often cost between $70 – $80, whereas most USEA event entries typically start around $110.

Penny and Brian Ross organize some of the sport’s most prestigious competitions, including this year’s North American Young Riders Championships, at the Virginia Horse Center in Lexington, Va. But the Rosses also run a series of low-key competitions with beginner schooling levels throughout the year—from pace events to unrecognized horse trials—often attracting 200 – 300 riders per outing.

“We give eventing newcomers the chance to ride over safe, well-designed fences and learn what the sport is all about in a fun yet educational way,” Penny says.

While schooling events offer an excellent opportunity for first-time event competitors, make sure that the unrecognized event you choose is run by reputable and knowledgeable individuals. Fran Cross from Southampton, Mass., who runs an unrecognized Beginner Novice division along with her USEA events, King Oak Farm Horse Trials, notes, “We’ve always put the same construction care and detail into our Beginner Novice cross-country jumps as we have our Novice fences,” she explains. “A Beginner Novice should never be simply a couple of logs strewn across a trail.”

Why Recognized?

So with schooling events flourishing, why did the USEA bring the Beginner Novice level into the fold?

“At many schooling events, organizers would set their own guidelines for jumping efforts—which means Beginner Novice at one place might be 2′ while another farm might offer a 2’6” course,” Jo Whitehouse explains. “Riders didn’t know what they were getting into.”

“Now the USEA has standardized the level, with fence dimensions clearly specified in the rulebook,” she continues. “USEA recognition means that licensed officials will evaluate courses, check footing and make sure the competition is run according to our standards.”

Beginner Novice Cross-Country
Beginner Novice is intended to be a step up from the lower levels you’ll experience at unrecognized/schooling shows.

That’s where the added expense comes, too—rated judges and trained officials come at a premium—and many of the USEA requirements, such as having a vet and farrier on the grounds, providing ambulance service, food concessions and even portable toilets do not come cheaply.

On the plus side, your USEA entry dollar buys a much more professional competition. The Beginner Novice division receives the same attention to detail as does the sport’s highest level, Advanced. “Recognition also means that Beginner Novice riders have the chance to aim for both national and regional year-end points, championships and awards,” Jo adds.

You don’t have to join USEA to compete in a recognized Beginner Novice event, but you must pay a $25 non-member fee with each entry. That payment, however, earns you a subscription to the organization’s magazine, Eventing USA. Should you decide to join USEA later in the season, any non-member fee payments will count toward the annual membership fee.

Cross-Country Preparation

The required speed for the Beginner Novice level cross-country is 300 to 350 meters per minute—a controlled canter as opposed to a gallop. Still, riders used to arena jumps on flat ground and perfect footing will find the notion of jumping fixed obstacles over varied terrain quite a challenge at first.

For many of Jane Hamlin’s students with showing backgrounds, a 2’6″ jump looks fine in the ring but becomes quite daunting when it’s a log pile in the middle of a field. “The hardest thing for so many riders to learn is, cross-country isn’t about one perfect position that you can practice endlessly,” she says.

Event riders do maintain a traditional two-point position when galloping between jumps. But for safety reasons, riders need to shift into a more secure position—shoulders back, seat bones in the saddle—on the approach to a solid cross-country fence. “You have to develop the suppleness to move with your horse, stay out of his way, yet remain in a safe balance,” Jane explains.

For neophyte eventers, learning to adopt a more centered position for cross-country jumping represents the biggest learning curve required by the sport. If your budget allows, seek out cross-country instruction from an experienced eventing professional before you start competing.

Rules of the Road

If you’ve never evented before, it makes sense to watch an event before you try riding in one. The USEA publishes “The Omnibus Schedule” four times a year, which lists entry information and specifics about recognized events nationwide. (Check out the USEA website for additional information.) If you’re ready to compete, remember that each event has an “opening date” for entries, six weeks prior to the competition; make sure your entry is postmarked on or after opening date. Events often fill up quickly, so try to get your entry in on time.

For the dressage and show jumping phases, you’ll need formal attire (black or navy show coat, white or tan breeches, boots, white shirt and stock tie). Cross-country attire is casual, but riders must wear a mandatory body protector and a medical armband.

Read the USEA rulebook to make sure you follow appropriate tack requirements. The rules specify which bits are allowed in each phase and explain what’s legal in warm-up, too. For example, you can warm up with a running martingale for dressage but it must be removed for the test; standing martingales are never allowed in any phase; and protective horse boots are allowed in warm-up but not in the dressage arena.

Even if you read the rulebook thoroughly, the sport’s many technicalities can overwhelm a new competitor. For example, your dressage test must be memorized and test “readers” are not permitted; warm-up fences are always flagged so they may only be jumped in one direction. Try to find an experienced eventing friend to accompany you to your first competition until you learn the ropes of your new endeavor.

Any veteran eventer will tell you not to worry about chasing ribbons during your inaugural events. Learn to jump both cross-country and stadium fences confidently first, even if you pick up a few time faults in the process. Almost all Beginner Novice fences can be safely trotted. You can always learn to go faster once you’ve gained some experience.

Riders walk the cross-country course two or three times before they ride. Most events offer free instructional course walks to new eventers; take advantage of this opportunity. Or, call the event organizer in advance and ask for the name of an eventer you might walk the course with.

In eventing, low scores are what competitors strive for. The percentage dressage score you earn in your test will be turned into a negative mark, so the lowest score wins. Clear jumping rounds in cross-country and show jumping will add no further penalties to your score, while picking up time or jumping faults in either of these phases will add to your score and lower your placing.

Camaraderie rather than competitiveness is the general atmosphere at events. Most riders compete for personal goals rather than blue ribbons. You’ll hear many competitors delighted by their horses’ noble cross-country efforts even with the odd mistake—a hesitation going into the water, say—that cost them a prize.

As part of this community spirit, eventers are always willing to embrace newcomers. So when you go to your first event, don’t hesitate to ask questions of the person you’ve parked your trailer or stabled next to. Just say, “This is my first event and …” Chances are the experienced eventers around you will flock to your side.

Annie Eldridge is an event rider who trains out of her Setters’ Run Farm in Duxbury, Mass., and is HI’s regular English Training Talk columnist.

Microchip Tracking is Purely Voluntary

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Despite hoopla and hysteria brewing on the Internet, claims that the United States government would implement a mandatory identification system for livestock, including horses, appear to be untrue. The U.S. Department of Agriculture is emphasizing that the National Animal Identification System (NAIS) will be a voluntary program and that no plans are in place to make the program mandatory.

The NAIS is a system intended to control the spread of disease and to minimize the negative impact of a disease outbreak on the livestock industry. This would be done through the identification of premises that hold or manage livestock, animal identification and the recording of animal movements. Some states are mandating parts of the system within their state, for example mandatory premises registration in Wisconsin, but the NAIS as a national comprehensive program is not mandatory.

“I’ve been taking a hard look at the program, basically took it all the way down to the frame and rebuilding, trying to make it simpler, make it more evident of what it’s all about, trying to dispel some of the misinformation and rumor and innuendo that’s been associated with it,” says Bruce Knight, the new under secretary for marketing and regulatory programs at USDA in an article that appeared on Oct. 20, 2006 on the Brownfield Ag Network.

“I think the most important thing for everybody to recognize is this is a voluntary program,” Knight continues. “So that means that we’ve got to have a program that a rancher can look at and say, ‘this is worth the extra cost on my operation.'”

So if horse owners decide to use microchips for identification purposes, that’s up to them. There is no conspiracy against the private ownership of equines or other ranch animals. For further information on the NAIS, you can visit https://www.aphis.usda.gov/wps/portal/aphis/ourfocus/animalhealth?1dmy&urile=wcm%3apath%3a%2FAPHIS_Content_Library%2FSA_Our_Focus%2FSA_Animal_Health%2FSA_Traceability.

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