Book Excerpt: Riding for the Blue

By

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June 3, 2003

What ignites the competitive spark? Does it happen the first time a lead liner finally masters the up/down of the posting trot? The moment a western rider discovers just the right pace for a lope? And what continues to lure the seasoned exhibitor? Surely she has better things to do on a weekend than rise before dawn and shimmy into uncomfortable body-hugging, restrictive attire and spend the day hiking back and forth from horse trailer to show arena. If this ceaseless activity, usually occurring in the extremes of either dust-choking air or sloppy mud, doesn’t discourage her, the food offered at the concession stands will. This unrelenting schedule, which likely includes second-guessing the whimsies of judges, would grate against the soul of most anyone. Yet riders still continue to line up at entry booths in that unending quest for blue ribbons and moments of notoriety. Undoubtedly, the motivating factor is a passionate love for horses. Each dedicated equestrian has taken an unspoken vow of allegiance to her horse, a commitment to honor the bond that exists between horse and rider. This is as it should be, for in no other sport is a human required to communicate with an animal to such a degree. A mere pair of reins, the touch of a boot’s heel, and the chirp of a “cluck” are virtually the only tools allowed as human and equine compete as a team.

A horse, being an animal with a feral ancestry, often gives in to instinctual urges even when domesticated. The most highly trained show horse can resort to fractious behavior in unfamiliar settings. The show ring is a scary place for a horse until he accepts his rider as his leader: jumps look suspicious, the water truck monstrous, and the voice of the announcer threatening. When a 1,200-pound horse entrusts his safety to a human and performs reliably in the show ring, it’s a heady accomplishment. The blue ribbon is merely the tangible reward. Of course, it’s also an added bonus when that same champion horse is the rider’s best friend. The jumper who digs his heels into the turf to clear that final oxer, the pony who is the only steed who doesn’t spook when the dust devil blows through the arena, and the dressage horse who adds a touch of panache to his tempi changes, all endear themselves further to their riders. When these same horses slurp a cola, ham it up for their win photos, or snack on the show ring’s decorative flora, it makes them even more priceless.

Yet a strong bond between a rider and her horse isn’t enough. To be successful, a rider must possess a thick skin because rejection comes swift and hard. Despite hours of preparation, one missed lead or a chip at one jump can send her back to the trailer with no hope of a ribbon. She must also be armed with a take-no-prisoners approach to competing. She has to look her fellow riders in the eye and think to herself, My horse and I are the best today, and now I’ll show you why. Junior riders are the experts at this tactic, particularly those in medal and horsemanship events. You can see them in the horse show office, studying the posted class list, weighing their competitors’ merits with the calculating eyes of a military strategist. These are the same teens who earlier had cavorted in the host motel’s pool with their rivals or shared a helping of nachos with their nemesis at the food booth. But now, twenty minutes before the class is called to order, it’s war.

The adult amateur riders, mostly women, take a different approach to showing. Two lady friends, still in their show clothes, can chat like teenagers at the back gate for hours. The topics? Dishing horse show gossip is the usual but so is anything remotely horsey. At home, they’re limited to how much they can ramble on about chaps, velveteen helmets, and the benefits of aluminum horseshoes. But here, they can talk unrestrained about such topics. Though the sun may make them squint, forming little crow’s feet at the edges of their eyes, they don’t care. After all, it’s a horse show, and they’re among friends. Who’s going to chide them if there’s boot polish underneath their fingernails?

Amidst the competition, the kaleidoscope of color among horses and riders shines: the preppy fashion coda of khaki and navy in the hunt-seat world versus the jewel-toned chaps and spandex body suits of the western classes. Silver ponies with charcoal muzzles stand rump-to-rump with chestnuts that shine like copper coins and shiny satin ribbons contrast with the matte finish of buffed leather. And everywhere there is noise, from the crackling of the public announcement system (do any of them ever work properly?) to the slosh of arena sand against the backside of a jump. The sights and sounds only add to the emotional tension as riders and horses wait to compete against their peers and aim for the perfect performance.

“Horse shows can take you from the depths of despair to the heights of ecstasy—and that’s just on warm-up day,” says Emily Caldon, an adult amateur hunt-seat rider. “I’ve had some of my worst rounds in front of huge crowds and felt like slinking away. But I’ve also had horses suddenly rise to the occasion and put in a great trip when they’ve been awful at home, and it’s like a miraculous victory.” The emotional roller coaster, however, doesn’t deter her. “To me, riding is a sport, not a hobby. I welcome the challenges of competing. What’s the point of practicing so hard if you’re not even going to the game?”

“It’s like no other feeling in the world,” says Tom Sworm, an American saddlebred trainer and horse show judge. “When you’re showing a saddlebred that’s really firing off all four legs, that loves competing and knows its job, you just put it in gear and stay out of its way. It’s like driving a well-tuned Ferrari.”

Dressage rider Debbie McDonald is a United States champion and Pan Am Games gold medal winner. Her motivation to show is built upon an undeniable bond with her mounts. “Horses are my friends. They’re the reason I get up every morning,” says McDonald. Despite the pressures of international competition, she thrives in the sport because “it’s an adrenaline rush you can’t find in any other atmosphere.”

Fifty-nine-year-old Marty Shaughnessy still competes with his Appaloosa in reining and heritage-costume events. He sees a sense of pride and accomplishment in his blue ribbons. “I can say to myself, when I win at the Appaloosa world show, that at that moment in time, I’m the best in the world in that event.”

Sarah Wilson, a young rider who competes in a variety of events, mostly at 4-H shows, sums up the appeal of horse shows as perhaps only an eleven-year-old could. “I like showing. I get to see my friends, and even though we’re riding against each other, we cheer each other on. Yeah, we’re competing. But it’s all in fun.”

Unfortunately, such fun comes at a price. While there are shows that serve the skill level of every rider, from backyard offerings at a local riding school to weeklong extravaganzas with national media coverage, they all stretch the pocketbook. Nearly everyone has to find creative ways to indulge their passion for competing. Before venturing into the realm of competition, there are two rules of showing that every exhibitor needs to memorize:

Rule Number One: Showing is an expensive endeavor. In the hypothetical pie chart of expenses, the cost of the horse accounts for just a medium-sized slice of pie. It’s out-sliced by entry fees, motel fees, overnight stabling fees, fees to join the local riding association that sanctions the show, coaching fees, grooming fees, and trailering fees. And then there’s another slice of the pie chart for all the “stuff.” Yes, a rider must have stuff to compete. There are show trunks, show tack, show clothes, and horsey accessories just for shows. And just when the rider is sick of eating pie, guess what? Fashion trends change, fads disappear, and it becomes imperative to dispense of all the old stuff and buy all new stuff—all of which ties into…

Rule Number Two: The amount of money spent is inversely proportional to the amount of fun enjoyed. This is also known as The Equestrian’s Law of Painful Irony. A rider’s plans for a dream show, the event she budgeted for six months in advance forcing her to eat macaroni and cheese three nights a week, will be the very same show in which her horse spies a ghost in the far corner of the arena or breaks out in hives from the bedding in the show stall.

By keeping these two simple rules in mind, a rider will prevent herself from ever contemplating the validity of her relatives’ notion that she has become certifiably insane ever since she entered her first horse show. Now she realizes what she’s gotten herself into: A most glorious way in which to spend oodles of money while enjoying the companionship of good friends, the loyalty of a spirited horse, and the challenge of competition. So, let’s show!

This excerpt is the first chapter of the exciting new book from BowTie Press: “RIDING FOR THE BLUE. ” Celebrating the thrill of competition that drives all participants, “RIDING FOR THE BLUE” is not another ‘how-to’ book offering tips about competing at horse shows. It is a compilation of the often poignant, frequently humorous moments that riders experience while competing for the prize of all prizes—the blue ribbon. This book is for anyone and everyone who has been a part of the horse show world.

Read more from author Cindy Hale in her blog, Life with Horses >>

Show-Ring Spectator Etiquette

By

Sharon Biggs

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June 2, 2003

7

At the famed Wimbledon tennis championships, a spectator’s cell phone rang during a key moment in the finals. All eyes, including the players’, turned toward “Mr. Bungle” as he scrambled to turn the phone off. And of course, all of this was caught on national television.

And who can forget the 2002 winter Olympics and the little kid who threw debris on the bobsled run just as a sled went by?

Spectators are an important part of the competition. They make sponsors reach into their pockets, help keep the sport popular and encourage the competitors. But they do need to know how to behave.

Here are a few tips on spectator etiquette at horse shows.

1. Watch what you say. That owner of the ewe-necked horse who looks like he gulped down a broomstick may be sitting right next to you. Jeering and pointing won’t help you make friends and influence people.

2. Control your enthusiasm. Although some disciplines, such as barrel racing and reining, encourage audience participation, others, such as dressage and hunters, do not. You may get very pointed looks in your direction if you yelp and whoop as a rider completes a very nice string of flying changes. Wait to show your approval after the test or round is complete.

3. Stay in your seat. Metal bleachers can make a lot of noise and spook a competitor’s horse, so try to wait until the round or test is over before leaving.

4. Keep your conversation to a whisper. This is particularly true in smaller shows where spectators are sitting near the judge. It’s very hard for a judge to concentrate on the task at hand when several conversations are going at once. And of course, keep your phone’s volume down or put it on vibrate!

5. Don’t bother the judge. No matter how outraged you are at the judge’s decision, do not approach her with your thoughts on her flawed eyesight. Speaking to the judge is the rider’s decision and must be done through the show officials.

6. Don’t offer assistance to a rider unless he’s asked for it or is in danger. Unauthorized assistance in some disciplines, such as eventing, can result in a rider’s disqualification.

What a Half Halt Is (and Isn’t)

By

Sharon Biggs

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May 19, 2003

22

A half-halt isn’t: pulling the reins. To start out, riding instructors often teach beginners very simplistic aids to take the place of certain skills until the rider’s balance and body control improves. This is particularly true of the half-halt. Since one of the requirements of the half-halt is having the ability to “ride along” or move your body along with the horse’s motion, you can understand how making a proper half-halt is nearly impossible to the rank beginner who is concentrating on so many things—holding the reins, sitting up, learning the rhythm of the rising trot, turning. Therefore, for a little while, the beginning rider may have to rely on pulling the reins to slow down or stop. Unfortunately, this aid often continues to become the rider’s way of half-halting forever. This way of braking eventually creates problems. Constantly having the bit pulled in his mouth is an unpleasant experience for the horse, which often leads to his resistance. If a rider’s answer to the problem is changing to a stronger bit or using training aids such as draw reins, it becomes a vicious cycle. Instead, master the subtle skill of the half-halt.

A half-halt is: the rider slowing his or her body down while gently squeezing the reins, which causes the bit to halt in the horse’s mouth. Rather than pulling the horse to a stop, a rider has to communicate to the horse that he needs to slow down. This is accomplished by either using your voice (saying whoa) or using your body (using a half-halt). With the half-halt, the communication to the horse is this: “when I move along with you, keep going. When I don’t, slow down.”

Further Reading
Two Half-Halt Exercises
Half-Halt How-to

American author Sharon Biggs is a freelance writer currently based in England.

Thrush in Horse Hooves

May 5, 2003

4

If you have horses, chances are you’ll see thrush firsthand sooner or later. Thrush is a bacterial infection, though it’s thought that yeast and fungal infections might also contribute to it.

With its black, tar-like, oderiferous discharge, it’s easy to spot—and smell—as you clean the sulci (grooves) along the sides of the frog. The sulci may also look deeper than normal if thrush has set in. If the infection has penetrated sensitive tissues, the horse will flinch when the area is cleaned or pressed with a hoof pick. In severe cases, the horse can be lame.

If caught early, thrush is usually quite easy to treat and resolve. If left for a period of time, thrush will not only eat away the frog, but it can penetrate the sole and work its way into vital structures. Another incentive for finding and treating thrush early is that once the infection enters the lower areas of the frog, it can be difficult to cure because most topical treatments can’t reach all the deep nooks and crannies.

While thrush is most often seen in horses that must stand in muck and wet conditions, it’s also found in horses with dry stabling. It can occur toward the end of a shoeing cycle, when flaps of the frog grow over the sulci and trap dirt and moisture. Horses with contracted heels can be prone to thrush because their hoof conformation narrows the sulci so dirt and manure aren’t as easily dislodged.

Prevention:

Daily hoof picking is a key to preventing thrush. Be sure to really clean out the sulci rather than just picking out the sole.
Regular exercise contributes to overall hoof quality by increasing circulation.
A clean, dry environment helps prevent the organisms that cause thrush.

Treatment:

Trim the frog. Have your farrier evaluate your horse’s hooves if you suspect thrush. If the frog is overgrown, the farrier will trim it. This gets rid of the infected parts of the frog and allows air to circulate better around the frog. If the frog isn’t trimmed first, all the anti-thrush products in the world won’t help.
Clean the hoof. After the frog is trimmed, scrub the entire foot with a stiff brush and warm water. Allow the foot to dry completely before applying a thrush product.
Apply topical product. Any tack store or catalog will offer a variety of thrush products. From thick ointments to liquids, all promise to treat thrush and kill the infection. Ask your vet for his or her advice on what works best in your area and given your particular conditions.

Other Remedies:

Strong (7%) iodine. This can be effective for mild cases of thrush that don’t penetrate into the deep layers of the frog. However, it can also dry the hoof if used too often.
Bleach. You might hear that household bleach is a good product for treating thrush, but it’s not recommended. Besides overdrying the hoof and frog, it doesn’t really kill the infection. Plus, bleach can cause significant damage to sensitive internal structures of the hoof if the thrush has created deep pockets of infection that lie next to the structures.
Continue ongoing care. Pick out the hooves every day and keep the horse in a clean, dry environment until the problem clears up. The horse doesn’t have to be kept in a bedded stall, but be sure he has dry places to stand for most of the day. Rubber mats can be a lifesaver for those who must contend with mud in winter and spring. Once the thrush is cured, strive to maintain this dry, clean environment.

If your horse is troubled with frequent bouts of thrush, consult your vet and farrier.

Further Reading
Guide to Horse Hoof Problems
Eight Hoof Care Myths

The author has handled horse hooves for 20 years and has suffered only one broken toe.

How to be a Horseless Rider

By

Sharon Biggs

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April 25, 2003

37

“No, we can’t afford a horse”… Those words are hard to hear as a child, and grownups even find that particular financial reality difficult to cope with. Since horses are a luxury, many horselovers are relegated to watching a horse graze in a nearby field, staring at a horse trailer out on the road hoping to catch a glimpse of its occupant or imagining a stable of Breyer horses as living, breathing steeds. But even if you are horseless, there are loads of ways you can incorporate them into your life. Here are seven options:

1. Help out at a local riding stable. Instructors, stable managers and trainers are always looking for assistance. They’ll let you groom, turn horses out, clean stalls, and if you are competent enough, they might let you ride. They may also exchange work for riding lessons.

2. Volunteer. Options such as therapeutic riding centers and horse rescues run on volunteer power. Jobs can entail helping disabled riders mount and dismount, supporting the riders or leading the horses. Welfare organizations need workers to clean stalls and groom horses.

Help horses by volunteering at an equine charity >>

3. Sign up for riding lessons. You don’t always need a horse to learn to ride; you can take lessons on a school horse. That lesson horse will be yours for an entire hour, and instructors usually encourage riders to care for the horse before and after the lesson. That’s at least two hours of pretend horse ownership!

4. Become a free horse sitter. Many owners look for people to take care of their horses while they are on vacation or during busy work periods. Post a note in your local feed store outlining your abilities and times available.

5. Get the knowledge. Make the most of your horseless status by studying. Read books, magazines and websites to learn more about health care, riding skills and horse management. You never know; there may be a horse in your life someday in the future.

6. Take a horsey holiday. Offering a wide selection of choices, riding vacations are more popular than ever with outfitters such as Cross Country International, Equitour and Hidden Trails. You can gallop on a beach in Spain, explore Native American lands on horseback in Arizona, or take riding lessons in the beautiful Yorkshire Dales of England.

7. Dust off those Breyer horses and exhibit them at a model horse show. These shows are gaining popularity with horselovers and there are many ways to show off your models. These plastic horses pose at everything real horses do in the show-ring and more. One exhibitor dropped her Breyer horse and broke its leg. So she created a surgical unit scene complete with vet dolls working to repair the horse’s leg. Visit /redirect.php?location=www.breyerhorses.com for more information on model horses.

Sharon Biggs is an American journalist currently based in England.

Getting a Rescued Horse to Trust You

By

Sue Weaver

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April 25, 2003

14

Horses are rescued for many reasons, including neglect, abuse and lack of handling. Each horse will react to life changes in his own way, yet there are basic steps rescuers take to bond with these special equines.

The following was adapted from British horseman, Henry Blake’s excellent book, Talking With Horses: A Study of Communication Between Man and Horse (Trafalgar Square; Reprint edition, January 1992).

To begin, the new rescues are isolated for both quarantine and training purposes. A safe, roomy box stall or substantially fenced small pen with indoor/outdoor elements is ideal.

For 30 days one person provides the horse’s every need. He’s given free access to grass hay and water and fed appropriate amounts of grain or treats from a pan, hand-held as soon as he’ll allow it, at least twice a day.

The caretaker (and no one else) spends at least 30 minutes each day quietly speaking or crooning to the newcomer while scratching or running hands over his body. If a day is missed, the 30-day bonding period begins anew.

Slow and easy movements are the rule. The horse’s caretaker approaches his shoulder—not his head—gazing at the ground, speaking or singing, hands at sides, until he accepts the person. First touch is a gentle withers, shoulder or chest scratching. As he allows it, his caretaker strokes the hands across his body until a bond is established and he fully relaxes.

But remember:

Abused or frightened horses sometimes react tooth and heel. Plot an escape route and don’t let the horse cut you off. Stay alert! It takes just seconds for a terrified horse to run you over or an angry one to attack.
Halter aggressive horses. If attacked, that halter will afford you control and protection. Use a breakaway halter, always.
Never move quickly. Don’t rush, and don’t grab. And never raise your voice.
Don’t expect overnight miracles. Some horses respond in a week, others demand months of patient handling. If you persevere, eventually the horse will bond with you.

Further Reading
Retraining the Rescue Horse

The author keeps a small herd of horses on her Arkansas farm, including several rescues.

Catching a Horse

By

Abigail Boatwright

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April 21, 2003

29

gray horse gallop The rider walks out to the pasture where five horses are grazing. Carrying a halter and lead rope, she leans against a rail and watches. The horses raise their heads, flicking their ears forward. After a few minutes, they amble over to her. She greets each one with pats, praise and ear scratches, then she places the halter on one, snaps on the lead, makes a kissing sound and moves forward; the horse obediently follows. This is the way it is — and should be — between a knowledgeable handler who understands equine behavior and a horse that is properly trained and trusting of his handler.

Most horses can be trained to allow a handler to catch them, and the job is much easier when catching and handling is done correctly when they are still foals. But even an older, difficult horse can be transformed from evasive runaway into acquiescent follower if the handler is willing to become a circumspective leader who takes the time to understand the horse.

What Makes Equus Run?

The first step to understanding the elusive horse is determining what drives the horse away from his handler.

Does the horse fear humans? “Horses have only two goals in life: to survive and to reproduce,” says Monty Roberts, a noted horse trainer and animal behaviorist. “Certainly when they’re difficult to catch, they’re not thinking about reproduction; their only thought can be survival. Anything that is uncomfortable for them could then lead to their ultimate death, so they perceive you as a predator and act upon that instinct.”

Is the horse afraid to leave the herd? “If horses are housed in a herd situation, their strongest instincts are to stay with the herd, whether the herd is inside the barn or consists of two or three buddies out in the pasture,” says Carol A. Collyer, director of equine services at Cornell University’s Equine Research Park. “When we take the horse away from the herd, where he’s comfortable, that may create some anxiety because we’re basically taking him away from where his instincts tell him it’s safest to be.”

Did the horse have a bad first experience with being caught? “A foal may never have been halter trained, then the veterinarian comes out at 6 weeks of age, and the horse is caught for the first time,” says Sharon Spier, DVM, associate professor and chief of equine field service at the University of California, Davis. “He gets wormed, vaccinated and restrained; that’s a fearful experience for the foal and not an ideal first way to handle a horse. Those horses can then be difficult to catch, needle-shy and fearful because that’s been their first experience with restraint.”

Does the horse lack good training? Many horses run away because they’ve not been properly schooled to respond to a handler’s commands.

Does the horse receive negative reinforcement? Clumsy handling, being put to work, or undergoing shots, worming or other unpleasant procedures every time the horse is apprehended reinforces his distrust of humans.

Does the horse receive inappropriate positive reinforcement? Some horses learn that if they evade their handlers, they’re offered a bribe. Soon it becomes a game.

Although it may be impossible to figure out why a horse acts the way he does, it is helpful to know whether the cause is due to fear, insufficient training, handler error or a combination of all three.

Regardless, the second step in correcting runaway behavior is careful consideration of each cause and then making the appropriate adjustments toward a better partnership. This is done by establishing trust, reschooling in the basics and/or learning better handling techniques.

Restoring Trust

For a fearful horse, or one whose experiences after getting caught are primarily negative ones, the handler must gain the horse’s trust and confidence. Restore the relationship by giving the horse positive experiences. Handle him without demanding anything from him. “Spend more time not catching him and taking him away,” suggests Collyer, “but just catching and handling him, giving him a pleasant experience. In time he will associate you with the pleasant experiences as well as other experiences. Do something nice like grooming him, giving him a scratch, or just approaching him and handling him.”

This method is also applied to the horse that’s afraid to leave his buddies. “Accustom the horse to being taken out of the herd with a good experience,” says Collyer. “Hopefully, the horse will soon develop enough confidence in you that he no longer sees you as a threat to his herding instinct.”

Practice approaching the horse in a small enclosure, like a box stall, round pen or paddock. “If you can’t catch your horse in a box stall, you’re not going to be able to catch him in the field,” notes Collyer. “Teaching them to allow you to approach and handle-them, and giving them positive reinforcement, will help a lot when you start having to catch them in different situations. By establishing this relationship of being able to walk up to the horse, the horse should be able to relate to the experience no matter where he is turned loose.”

Retraining

For the horse that chooses to ignore his handler’s commands or that plays games in hopes of getting a bribe, retraining in the fundamentals should correct the problem. Because the goal of retraining the evasive horse is to create a horse that will listen and obey his handler, use tools that make it easier for the horse to understand: the longe line, body language and, if possible, a round pen.

Dr. Spier, who raises and trains dressage and trail horses, says, “If you don’t have a round corral, use the longe line to teach him to come into you at whatever gait you select. Have him change direction. Instead of doing endless circles, train your horse to back up on the longe line, go through obstacles and over jumps. Ask him for different tasks, with plenty of praise and rest so he gets his mind concentrating on you.” Commands learned on the longe line should soon transfer to the horse at liberty.

Work with the horse through body language. “Approach the horse with the idea that you don’t want to catch him, that he ought to go away,” says Roberts.

“When you push him away, you do it with shoulders square, your eyes on their eyes, and all your motions square. As they go away, they will communicate back to you when they’re ready to renegotiate the deal. They do that with a series of four or five gestures — a position of their ears, eyes, shoulders, neck, tongue, lips, head. Once the conversation is complete about them wanting to return to you, then you go passive instead of aggressive: Don’t look them in the eye.” “Use your body language to send the horse out, then when the horse wants to stop, use your body language to draw him back in,” adds Dr. Spier. “The horse will be naturally drawn in to you.”

Round Pen Training

“The round pen is an ideal situation where you can use your body language to communicate with the horse,” says Collyer. “You learn in the round pen how to ask your horse to go faster, slower, stop, turn, and to be alert to your body language. The same basic principles can be accomplished without a round pen, but a round pen makes it easier by taking away all the other man-made barriers that get in the way.”

Teach your horse the meaning of “whoa.” “A horse that is properly taught ‘whoa’ will probably stand still in any situation, as long he’s told ‘whoa,’ ” says Collyer. “That’s a really useful word.”

Better Handling

Sometimes the problem with the elusive horse is not so much the horse as it is how the handler approaches or catches him. Don’t approach a horse, especially a young or inexperienced one, in what may be perceived as a threatening manner. Says Collyer, who has to catch her share of the 80 to 100 client- and college-owned horses at Cornell’s equine reproduction center, “Approaching in a frontal position with direct eye-to-eye contact is very predator-like, and the horse may turn and go away. If you approach the horse casually with a side-long glance, the horse may allow you to approach.”

Sometimes squatting down arouses a horse’s curiosity, drawing him into you.

Never chase a horse. You can’t outrun him, and chasing may reinforce a fearful horse’s instincts that your actions are predatory or aggressive. Walk him down instead. This usually works with a stubborn horse, Collyer says. “You continue to walk slowly after the horse. Eventually the horse knows what’s going on and will tire of the game. Sometimes a stubborn horse, if you just walk quietly along with him, will just give up.” But keep your cool; walking him down can take awhile.

Cornering a wise old horse in a paddock or field might be OK, but it could be dangerous with other types of horses. “A frightened or nervous horse without a lot of experience may run right over you to escape, because being trapped is not naturally comfortable for a horse,” warns Collyer. “If he runs over you once, he’ll probably try it again.”

Use the buddy system. Go up to another approachable horse and scratch or pat him. Start walking him to the gate, and the reluctant horse may follow. Or, if the horses are buddies, walk the approachable horse over to the evasive one and see if you can transfer control from one horse to the other.

Erect a catch pen or small paddock by the pasture gate and gather the whole herd in there before cutting out the hard-to-catch horse. Explains Collyer, “He’s probably going to follow his companions in, and then you have a much smaller area to deal with.”

Think ahead. Don’t turn your horse out in a large field 30 minutes before you’re going to ride or before the veterinarian comes. “When he’s all full of energy, you know he’s not going to be ready to be caught for a couple of hours,” says Collyer. “That sets up a bad situation, and if the horse refuses to be caught it reinforces bad behavior.” Likewise, don’t turn out a horse that has had very little handling into a large area without a catch pen or companions to use as lures.

Be Sensible and Sensitive

Never punish a horse once you’ve caught him. “Pulling him around on the halter, being very aggressive with him or whipping the horse tells him, ‘Never let me catch you again,’ ” says Roberts.

Be sensitive to negative patterns. Part of the reason the horse may elude you is because the only time you fetch him is for work, so don’t overdo retraining (or training) your horse. Play with him, do other exercises, go on trail rides, et cetera.

Always reward your horse with a pat or encouragement. Be wary of food rewards. “If we always use food as a bribe, there may be times when the horse is not hungry and the herd instinct is stronger than his desire to eat,” says Collyer. In addition, attempting to lure one horse out of a herd by taking a bucket of grain into the area could be dangerous. “The horse you’re trying to catch is probably not the No. 1 dominant horse,” Collyer says. “If you go in there with feed, the other horses are going to be competing for the feed and, if anything, they’re going to be chasing away the horse you want to catch. That puts the handler in the middle of a bunch of milling horses — a very precarious position.”

Retraining the hard-to-catch horse may take a lot of time. Whether the horse has to overcome a fear response or go back to square one for training, there simply are no quick fixes. Each horse is also an individual; what works for one may not work so well for another. But if you take the time to understand what your horse’s problem is, those fixes could last a lifetime.

Deworming Tips

By

Sharon Biggs

-

April 21, 2003

5

Providing your horse doesn’t have a phobia about deworming, you can easily do the deed yourself. If you are unsure how to administer an anthelmintic follow our few tips:

Since underdosing is an issue when deworming, manufacturers urge horse owners to first determine the weight of their horses. You can do that by use of a weight scale (contact your veterinarian), or if that isn’t possible, a girth measuring tape can give you a close approximation. Don’t go on height because the weight of a 16-hand Thoroughbred will be different than the weight of a 16-hand warmblood.
Once your horse’s weight is established, look at the deworming syringe. You’ll notice that there are number marks running down the side of the tube (note: if you have a heavy horse, you may need to purchase another tube to make up the weight). Slide the latch or spin the dial until it rests on the number denoting the weight of your horse.
Place a halter on your horse. Have a friend hold him if necessary. Make sure that your horse’s mouth is empty of all grain and hay.
Place the syringe into the interdental space (where the bit normally sits) and point it toward the back of the tongue. Press the plunger and administer the dosage on top of the tongue. Then hold your horse’s head slightly up until he swallows.
Watch your horse for the next five minutes or so to be sure he doesn’t spit out the medication. To further ensure that your horse has swallowed the dewormer, wait another 20 minutes before giving him anything to eat. (If the horse eats immediately after deworming, it’s easy for him to spit out part of the dewormer along with the food.

Powder vs. Paste?
Anyone who has ever tried to deworm a horse that doesn’t care to be dewormed knows that it’s a tough task, and usually the deworm-er (you) ends up wearing most of the anthelmintic. If your horse refuses to be dewormed in the usual manner, there are alternative methods. Manufacturers have devised clever ways to make the medicine go down with palatable granules, powders or pellets that can be sprinkled on grain rations and, for the less reluctant horse, flavored paste dewormers that disguise the taste of the chemical. If you do choose to feed a granule, check to make sure your horse is eating the entire dosage and not separating the grain from the dewormer.

Further Reading
Horse Deworming Chart
Video: How to Deworm Your Horse
Deworming the Reluctant Horse
New Thinking on Deworming

Sharon Biggs is an American journalist currently based in England.

Acupressure for Colic

April 14, 2003

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Colic. The mere word sends shivers down horse owners’ spines. Whether it’s a relatively simple case of gas or a potentially deadly
impaction or intestinal displacement, whenever your horse shows signs of colic, call the vet immediately.

Some of these signs are:

not eating or drinking
lying down and/or rolling more frequently than normal
pawing the ground
kicking the belly or looking at the abdomen
standing as if to urinate, but not actually urinating
curling the upper lip
yawning
sweating heavily
standing quietly and/or rigidly
reluctance to move
staggering gait or nearly falling

Before you call the vet, make a list of any symptoms your horse is displaying. Also take your horse’s temperature and heart rate, and
check his mucous membrane color. Let your vet know your findings. If your vet gives you instructions to follow, proceed with them.

Beyond this, what can you do? While you’re waiting for the vet to arrive, apply pressure to the following acupressure points. “Restoring
the energy flow in the body can help mitigate some of your horse’s discomfort,” explains Nancy Zidonis, one of the three authors of
Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual (Equine Acupressure Inc; 3rd edition; June 1999).

“We’ve seen excellent results when acupressure is performed on horses with colic, even if the person giving the treatment is not an
experienced acupressure practitioner,” adds Amy Snow, author.

To perform this acupressure point work, use the ball of your thumb or place your middle finger on top of your index finger. Apply about
one to three pounds of pressure to each point. When you feel resistance in the point, let up slightly with the pressure and then apply
pressure again. Exhale as you press into it, and inhale as you slowly release.

The following diagrams, from “Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual,” give you a general idea of where the acupoints are located.
How can you be sure?

Click Here to View the Colic-Impaction Diagram

Click Here to View the Colic-Flatulent or Gas Diagram

Click Here to View the Colic-Preventive Diagram

“Acupoints are found in the valleys of the body—in the depressions next to or between muscles, bones, tendons and around joints,”
explains Marie Soderberg, author. “They’re not on the top of bones or in the belly of a muscle. And, often, acupoints look and feel
different than the surrounding area of the body. They feel harder or softer, warmer or cooler, and are more sensitive to touch.”

Kara Stewart is a freelance writer based in Colorado.

Protective Legwear for Horses

By

Jennifer Warner

-

March 31, 2003

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Have you ever brushed over a small scab on the inside of your horse’s leg or noticed his reaction to a tender spot around his fetlock, but then put it out of your mind because it seemed insignificant? When you go down the trail, do you occasionally hear your horse’s shoes clank together and think he’s just overextending his stride? Even the most balanced movers will occasionally overreach, running the risk of pulling off a front shoe with their back toe or, worse, clipping the bulb of their heel.

With the precision footwork demanded of many performance horses, an interference-related abrasion is inevitable, and sometimes even the most conformationally correct horse will track less than perfectly and bang himself. If your horse does any of these things, protective legwear may prevent minor injuries, as well as give him additional, much-needed support when you are pushing him to peak performance levels.

What’s Out There

There are basically two types of protective legwear. Interference boots protect the horse’s legs from bumps and abrasions while working. These include bell boots, splint and shin boots, sid boots and jumping boots. Hock and knee boots also protect the horse, but are not typically used when the horse is working.

Support boots, also called sports medicine boots, offer the horse both protection from interference and added support to the soft-tissue structures of the leg.

A variety of protective legwear products have been designed for specific kinds of problems and disciplines. Starting at the bottom and moving up the horse’s leg, legwear includes the following:

Bell boots protect the coronary band, the heel bulbs and the back of the hoof. They are available in both leather and synthetic materials, with the latter being the most popular. Some pull on, some use buckles and some have hook-and-loop closures. Petal boots come with plastic petals that slide on and off a strap to adjust them to any size. Bell boots are particularly useful for the horse that forges or overreaches. They help keep eggbar or other therapeutic shoes from being pulled off, protect an injured or tender hoof, or simply reduce potential hoof injuries.
“I use boots for turnout, more than for anything,” says Pam Baker of Hillcrest Farms in Bealeton, Virginia, who trains national hunter champions. “I don’t take any unnecessary chances that my horses could play and hurt themselves. All my horses with eggbar shoes wear bell boots over them.”
Interference boots, sometimes called ankle boots, protect both the front and back ankle joints from interference-related abrasions. Made of synthetic materials or leather, these boots are useful for a horse with imperfect conformation that may cause him to track closely or move with an unbalanced gait. They also offer protection for the horse that is subjected to intense competition, such as jumpers or other horses that wear studs in their shoes.
Sports medicine boots wrap completely around the lower leg and have a support strap under the fetlock. They are usually made of neoprene lined with soft padding. Some sports medicine boots are made with an attached bell boot for complete leg protection. Their purpose is to absorb concussion as the horse’s hoof hits the ground, thereby reducing the risk of tendon and ligament injury. Veterinarians are also prescribing them for horses that have suffered and now are recovering from a bowed tendon or ligament injury, and for horses with arthritis and windpuffs, says Dal Scott, president and CEO of Professional’s Choice Inc., makers of the SMB II sports medicine boot.
Sports medicine boots will benefit any performance horse, says Scott. For instance, one of the common problems with dressage horses is with the hocks and stifle, because they are asked to extend so far up underneath themselves. “Sports medicine boots benefit more than just the part of the anatomy that they fit,” he says. “They support the entire musculo-skeletal system of the horse. When used on the (dressage horse’s) hind legs, they reduce or eliminate hock problems.”
Splint and shin boots protect the bone and soft tissues (tendons and ligaments) of the lower legs. They are called splint boots because they are designed to protect the splint bone. Splint boots can be used on both front and rear legs to protect the inside of the lower leg from being hit with an opposite foot. These boots typically have additional padding sewn into the inside of the boot for added protection.
Jumping boots are somewhat similar in design to splint boots, but with an open front. They are designed to protect the check ligament and the top of the tendons, as well as the splint bones and suspensory ligament. Horses likely to overreach with their hind legs and catch a front leg as they jump can benefit from jumping boots.
Skid boots prevent burning or chafing of rear fetlocks and pastern joints during sliding stops and turns demanded in many western performance disciplines, particularly cutting and reining.
Polo wraps got their name because they were originally popular among polo players. Their usefulness has long since expanded into most every other discipline. Polo wraps, usually made of cotton-blend fabric, offer wide-spectrum protection, depending on how they are used. People who use polo wraps like them because of their versatility, since different parts of the leg can be protected, depending on how they are applied. Using polo wraps, however, requires some experience, since a leg can be easily damaged by a wrap that has been applied improperly. They also require more maintenance than leg boots in order to maintain their usefulness and elasticity.

Gray horse's legs — Photo: Abramova Kseniya/Shutterstock

Proper Fit

Selecting the correct style and size, and putting protective legwear on correctly is important and frequently misunderstood. If you have questions about fit or sizing, call the manufacturer or ask your tack dealer before purchasing a product.

Care and cleaning must also be considered before you purchase legwear, since keeping such items clean and in supple condition is imperative. Hunter trainer Baker prefers washable leg boots made of synthetic materials.

“Just keeping leather soft and supple is hard,” says Baker. “And if you don’t keep boots clean, they rub.” She notes that horses with white legs seem to be more sensitive to irritation. She also prefers certain types of bell boots over others. “Rubber bell boots probably stay on the best. I don’t like leather ones because they are too hard to keep supple.”

Simply reading the instructions before putting the legwear on the horse could help prevent common problems, says Les Vogt, 15-time world reining champion and developer of the Pro Equine Athletic Sport Boots. Manufacturers typically place logos on the front, include instructional pamphlets in leg-boot packages and take other obvious steps to help prevent damage done to horses by improperly applied gear.

Some boot advertisements, like one from State Line Tack, carry warnings about correct fit: “It is possible to cause harm to a horse’s leg by improperly applying a bandage or galloping boot. Anyone who intends to use lower-leg support devices should seek competent training in the use of these items before applying them to a horse.”

Although some applications may seem obvious, the amount of pressure needed to tighten a boot enough to keep it from slipping, yet not so tight that it causes damage, is a judgment call. Splint boots, for example, come in pairs, with a designated left and right. Pads go to the inside of the leg and tabs to the back. The pad is usually wider at the bottom to protect the fetlock joint. Over-tightening boots can lead to a bowed tendon, and with the more lightweight designs, it is easy to put a boot on too tightly.

Another problem is putting boots on too loose. If a leg boot is applied too loosely, it will slip down and rub the back of the fetlock joints or the bulbs of the heel and create soreness.

When Not to Use Boots

There are some times when even Vogt, who says he uses boots for nearly every occasion, doesn’t use them. He recommends removing boots when riding in foxtail, burr grass or on the beach. “Sand will adhere to the boots, and if you ride for too long, it will turn into sandpaper,” says Vogt. It’s important, whatever the riding surface, to remove the boots and empty them of any accumulated debris, and to clean the horse’s legs regularly every few hours.

Using bell boots requires special attention. “I can’t argue with protecting your investment or preventing injury,” says Dr. Joyce Harman, D.V.M., of Harmany Equine Clinic in Washington, Virginia. “But when you look at the comfort of the horse, especially with bell boots, the horse’s freedom and natural movement is somewhat altered.”

As a veterinarian, Dr. Harman sees horses with scarred pasterns from wearing bell boots. The damage isn’t prompted by any one material, but rather from poor fit, she says. Before scars become apparent, tissue is very raw and sore — observable to even novice riders as they put the boots on or take them off.

Bruce Olsen of Montrose Quarter Horses in Richmond, Virginia, is a former rodeo rider who now primarily trains young reining horses. He doesn’t use boots often, just skid boots if the longer hair on the hind fetlocks wears off or if he’s riding in an arena with very grainy dirt. He checks the boots frequently for dirt and sand that can build up and cause raw spots.

“When I learned to dance, my partner stepped on my feet to get them out of the way,” says Olsen. “Sometimes if you allow a young horse to bump into himself, he’ll learn where to put his feet a little faster. If it becomes a chronic problem, I’ll put a boot on so they don’t injure themselves, and I’ll start altering my training, trying to teach them where to place their feet. On young horses, I don’t use boots, and I don’t shoe in front, just in the rear.”

Olsen thinks that boot do have a place on some older, frequently injured horses, but using them on a young horse can simply teach him to continue interfering with his own legs. “When I start hurrying horses up, and if they’re shod in front after they have the cadence, I’ll put boots on them. If I see a horse that overreaches and hurts himself in the front, I’ll put bell boots on him. But it isn’t something I automatically go to.”

“Sometimes, just like other things, boots can cause problems rather than cure them,” says Olsen. “If you have to boot up a young horse, you’d better look at what you’re asking them to do. It’s like setting your clock ahead so you won’t be late. I don’t think it’s necessary. If you’re asking a young horse to do too much when he’s tired, you’re probably doing too much in your training program.”

When Are Boots Effective?

Like Olsen, most trainers and vets agree that legwear, particularly sports medicine boots, can support horses with chronic leg problems or a recuperating leg injury. They will also help the horse that has an incurable problem, such as an aged equine with weakened fetlock joints. But these boots are also beneficial to the sound, healthy performance horse on which great athletic demands are made. Regardless of what type of riding you do or how much you demand of your horse, if you notice scars, heat, scratches or scrapes on the inside of your horse’s legs or heels, you may want to talk with a trainer or veterinarian about adding equine legwear to your list of necessary equipment.

Read more on the proper use of protective boots >>