This article outlines the six equine characteristic criteria, of varying degrees of importance, that are used in the ECAT and can be considered as part of your decision-making process when assessing a new horse. While each horse is unique, there are common traits that can help in assessing all. 

When considering a horse, in addition to seeking soundness, conformation and paces suitable for the intended purpose, there are characteristics that can be considered when matching mounts with riders. These criteria emphasize the level of challenge a particular equine trait may represent from a rider safety perspective.  

Level of Sensitivity

Sensitivity is extremely important to consider when selecting a horse. Sensitivity is both genetically inherent and experiential. Experiential sensitivity can be increased or decreased, according to ongoing handling as trainers sensitize and desensitize to specific stimuli. However, a genetically Highly Sensitive Horse (HSH) will always be that. While it is possible to increase tolerances for specific experiences and situations, the HSH will always present a greater challenge.  

High sensitivity is far more than physical in nature, but it does include the physical. HSHs can present with a very low pain tolerance threshold but in fact, they feel pain more intensely.    

In addition to physical sensitivity, the HSH has a heightened mental-emotional sensitivity. These horses are hyper-alert, making them aware of subtleties in their environment that others are not. This can lead to them being overstimulated and overwhelmed.

Beyond the heightened five senses, HSHs are quite intuitive. These horses are acutely aware of what the rider is feeling and are deeply affected by rider fear and stress.  

HSHs do not do well with change. Change could be as simple as schooling in a new place or something even more benign. There are many techniques for helping HSHs succeed, but they are not well understood even by the best trainers.

The horse that is merely physically sensitive will prove more challenging for the novice rider, but the Highly Sensitive Horse should be considered significantly more challenging for all.

Temperament 

Temperament is a very important consideration in assessing a horse. Horses are generally categorized as hot, warm or cold. Hotter horses, like Arabians and Thoroughbreds, tend to be more reactive with high energy. Colder horses, like drafts, are more laid-back and slower to react. Warmbloods aim to combine the athleticism and stamina of the hot horse with the more passive disposition of the cold horse. 

Temperament is important, particularly when combined with other character traits. For instance, a hot horse with a strong fear trait will more easily exhibit flight responses and bolt in unfamiliar or stressful situations. If this hot horse is prevented from running off in that instant, explosive bucking or rearing is more likely than with the cold horse. A cold horse may buck or rear, but he is much more likely to give it up quickly as it takes too much energy. A cold horse with the same strong fear trait is more likely to stop and may even freeze, giving the rider an opportunity to dismount. 

A hot horse should be considered more challenging and when combined with other challenging traits, the horse can be unsafe for less experienced riders.

Level of Fear

Fear is another very important consideration. Like sensitivity, fear can be inherent and experiential. For the experiential aspect, a horse may have been traumatized or made more fearful with improper handling.

While thoughtful handling can help even the genetically fearful horse build confidence, each time a new idea or challenge is introduced, the fearful part will likely emerge. For some horses, even moving a familiar fence to a different spot can be considered a new challenge.

The fearful horse should be considered more challenging.

Previous Experience and Training

Previous experience and training is important to consider. A horse that has successful experience in the intended discipline will be less challenging than one trained for a different purpose. For example, transitioning a racehorse or barrel racer, trained with explosive speed, into an easier-going hunter or dressage horse requires skill and time.  

When the previous training and history of the horse is unknown, as often is the case in an auction, assume the horse will be challenging. Some horses have suffered abuse and trauma and will carry those wounds until a skilled and caring human can help them heal.  

Retraining a horse into a different discipline or retraining a horse that suffered abuse and trauma can be considerably more challenging.  

Dominance 

Dominance is another important aspect to consider when selecting a horse. This is not just resource guarding. Horses are wired for a level of dominance. An alpha dominant’s large-and-in-charge way of going is not hard to spot in a herd. 

The alpha dominant horse is more likely to attempt to assertively express his desires over that of the handler/rider. If the alpha dominant horse is also easily overwhelmed, as in the case of the HSH, he will more often offer resistance and try to take charge.

Other horses will have dominant qualities and take advantage of opportunities to move up the pecking order.  

The dominant horse will likely be more challenging than the submissive horse.

Gender 

Gender may be an important consideration. A stallion can be more animated and may often have another agenda, primarily the proximity of available mares. At the show or on the trail, it may be more challenging to get his undivided attention.  

Mares go through hormonal cycles that can affect consistency. There are times during her cycle when she may be experiencing discomfort.

A gelding is most likely the best bet for a Steady Eddy.

Stallions and mares should be considered potentially more challenging than geldings.    

Key Takeaway

This information is generalized and only intended to be a guideline when evaluating a horse to determine the probable level of challenge that horse will present to a rider. There are always exceptions. The best course of action, when looking for a horse, is to seek help from an equine professional and your equine veterinarian.    

A single criterion may be enough to help you decide against owning a particular horse. However, when deciding in favor of a horse, the best analysis is done when considering the combined criteria.   

Incorporating the identified criteria into your equine assessment and decision-making process could help you choose the right horse. 

Try the online Equine Challenge Assessment Tool (ECAT) here.

This article about using the Equine Challenge Assessment Tool (ECAT) when choosing a horse is a web exclusive Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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After years as a rider and horse owner, we hold on to that identity for ourselves. It may not have been a steady journey, and it was probably interrupted by work and family changes. Or maybe it started late. At some point, we begin to define ourselves as horse owners.

After I lost my last horse, these thoughts were on my mind:

Do I need another horse?

Am I ready for that?

Who am I now?

Here, we dive into four stories of horse women who are now investing their time and energy into a new horse. Their excitement and sense of good fortune are inspiring.

Meet Lois

Lois Pienkos and her husband live on a picturesque farm near a small town in Eastern Iowa. There are barns, an arena, a jump field, pastures, and a lovely white house with a wraparound enclosed porch full of plants.

Lois is a quilter and paints bright barn quilts that hang on the buildings. When her daughter began riding in Pony Club, Lois got involved and then became a rider herself. She bred her mare and raised two dressage horses that she took to clinics and shows. Now retired, she and her husband spend most of the year on their farm in Iowa with their horses and four to five months in Wellington, Fla., where her trainer lives.

Lois and her trainer decided it was time to find a smaller horse for Lois to move up the levels. They found a great match for her in Florida in 2021, a 10-year-old Lusitano gelding named Heroi. Once home, she easily, but with sadness, sold her bigger Second Level dressage horse and started on a new adventure.

“Heroi is being trained in dressage,” Lois says. “I’m also beginning to try working equitation. He and I are playing with some of the props and plan to attend a clinic or two in 2023 in Iowa. We started him on trails while we were in Florida this past season. At home and at the barn in Florida, we hack around the property regularly. We do hope to show Heroi, hopefully in the next year.”

The summer fills with clinics and lessons, working on what they learned the past winter in Florida. They travel to Loxahatchee, Fla., in November, where they stable with friends from around the country and train. Lois says her horse’s progress keeps her going, as she “is living the dream.”

Meet Celesta

Celesta Albonetti has ridden since she was a young woman, beginning with hunters, jumpers and eventing before committing to dressage. Celesta loved her small farm in eastern Iowa, surrounded by creeks, woods and farm fields. Her two Trakehner mares loved it, too.

After 16 years there, she retired and returned to Memphis, Tenn., and her family. Her older mare with exquisite gaits and flash had passed away a few years earlier.

Celesta brought the younger mare, Angie, to Tennessee. She found a suitable dressage barn and became friends with riders at the barn who were able to ride Angie for her. Celesta spent hours there, as she has always cared for her horses in this way. Tragically, Angie later became ill and passed away. Most of us can empathize with the grief this brought to Celesta.

When she was ready for another horse, Celesta purchased another Trakehner mare, a 6-year-old she found in Kentucky. Baroness III, called “Aliza” in the barn, was foaled in 2015 and spent two years as a broodmare prior to Celesta purchasing her in August 2021.

“I felt alive again,” she says. “I go out every day, and I love it.”

After a stall became available in her trainer’s barn in Eads, Tenn., Celesta moved her mare there. The trainer works with Aliza each week, and her progress makes all three very happy. Celesta’s trainer, Macy, has started to show Aliza, and the three share the excitement of their progress. Their plans are to show at Training and First Level during the summer and fall.

Meet Ellen

Ellen Spector has spent her lifetime riding. After years of working, raising children, and boarding her horses, she settled in Iowa, where she and her husband bought a large acreage and put up a 12-stall boarding barn, West Branch Horse Farm. She moved from hunter/jumpers into dressage. She bought mares and started to raise her own dressage horses. Ellen prided her barn as having the best care in the area.

The years passed with many beautiful horses and many devoted boarders. As Ellen’s horses aged and passed away, she found herself without a horse of her own and began to think about the next one—a horse she would keep even after eventually selling the property.

With her husband’s encouragement, Ellen traveled to Denmark with a Danish boarder, Susanne. Susanne’s sister drove them from barn to barn, searching for the right horse. The three dressage riders found a lovely young mare for Ellen, who has always loved mares.

She bought home the 5-year-old Danish Warmblood mare Kokkedals Heroine, barn name “Heroine,” in 2016. With some help from professional trainers, they have begun to compete at recognized dressage shows, a long-time goal.

“We plan to go to three show this summer at Maffit Lake [near Des Moines, Iowa],” she says. “I can’t do without her.” They spend time together every day as Ellen is doing chores and riding.

Meet Judy, the Author

As for me, I adopted a rescued yearling in 2004 named Coach, a Hackney. In 2021 he had a pasture accident and had to be put down, which was very traumatic for me.

The mare that shared the pasture with him left, so no horses remained on my property. I decided I needed to find a quiet horse for myself, my kids, and my friends. I found Nellie at a small farm 90 minutes away; her teenage owner had outgrown her.

I made two trips with friends to meet and ride Nellie before trailering her home. Her age was uncertain, maybe 10 or 11. They never got papers, but called her a Quarter Horse, which seems correct. She’d had a healthy foal that year. She is pretty and quiet.

She and the older Percheron-cross we board for a friend got along from the beginning. Gracie is huge but sweet. Nellie and I connected during the first year. She calls to me from the pasture when I am in the house. She was ridden with western and English saddles.

I’m not riding now and have not been able to find someone to ride her, but she is a happy horse. These two are the quietest horses we have ever had. I put on their masks, groom and spray them in our large dry lot with no halters or lead ropes. They don’t spook or run from crop dusters or large farm equipment. They come for dinner when called.

Getting Back into Horse Ownership

All four women, including four myself, have gone through the process of asking difficult questions.

Why buy a horse now? We found ourselves with room in our hearts to fill after losing or selling our previous horses. Two decided on young horses, knowing their needed training would be long and costly.

Three met trainers who could ride their horses for them. As long-time owners, we already knew the realities of horse ownership, how much help was needed, and where to find it.

If you’re thinking of getting back into horse ownership, think first of the horse’s wellbeing. You need a safe and well-maintained barn, whether at home or a boarding facility.

If at home, you’ll need a backup person to provide the horse care when you can’t. You must have a budget that will accommodate the numerous additional expenses that come with adding a horse to the family.

We all need to have plans for our horses and pets when we are no longer present. If you’re at the beginning of your riding life, you may not have thought of a future after you’re gone. Longtime horse owners tend to be more prepared and plan for this step. This is important to consider before jumping into horse ownership—for horse lovers of any age.

But as you look out into the pasture and feel that space in your heart has been filled, all of the time, financial and organizational challenges seem worth it.

This article about riding a new horse later in life appeared in the October 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you’ve never been a part of purchasing a horse before, be warned, it can be a little stressful. Horses are a big investment, and even if you aren’t the one paying for it, you’ll be investing your time and talents into it. It’s important to do your homework beforehand so that not only will your horse-buying experience be a positive one, but you’ll also make the best choices to purchase the right horse. This guide will be your best friend as you prepare for buying a horse.

Hold Your Horses

First off, it’s important to remember that unless you know the horse already, there’s a lot to consider. Many times you have to look at and try out several horses before you find the perfect match. It’s an exciting experience, but letting your “excited” emotions take over can mean that you don’t get exactly what you want. Let’s take a look at some questions you need to ask and things you need to look for before buying a horse.

Things to Ask Before You Go Look at the Horse

◆ Ask the horse’s age and if it’s been verified by a vet or equine dentist.

◆ Ask about the horse’s history and if there are health concerns.

◆ Ask if the horse has any vices and why they are selling the horse.

◆ Ask how the horse behaves with other horses.

◆ Ask if the horse is suitable for a beginner, advanced beginner, or advanced rider.

◆ Ask if the horse ever leaves the farm and what he’s primarily used for. If you plan on showing, a trail horse that is only used for trail riding might not be a great fit unless you can devote time to lots of arena training.

◆ Ask if the horse is barn or buddy sour.

◆ Ask if the horse loads and trailers well.

◆ Ask if you can have access to the vet records and if the owner welcomes a pre-purchase exam.

◆ If the owner asks for a deposit to come look at the horse, dig deeper. Oftentimes, these are scams.

Things to Look For on the Ground

Is the Horse Hard to Catch?

When you pull up to the barn, the first thing you need to see is if the horse is already stabled or tied up for you. This can be a warning sign that the horse is hard to catch. You can always ask the owner if he’s easy to catch or not, but remember that not everyone is honest.

Is the Horse Sweaty?

The second thing you need to look for is if the horse has been worked before you arrived. Unless you are looking for a “project” horse, you want one that you can ride straight from the field without having a trainer run off his energy to make him rideable for you.

How Does the Horse Respond to Being Groomed?

While the horse is tied up, brush the horse down. Is he antsy while being tied? Can you spray him with fly spray? If you plan on blanketing, how does he respond to having a blanket put on his back? Can the owner easily pick up and hold all four feet?

What is the Horse’s Standing Posture Like?

Ask the owner to walk the horse in a circle and stop. Take a look at his responsiveness to his handler. Evaluate his gait. And pay special attention to his standing posture. The way the horse stands can tell you a lot about his soundness. If he’s parked out (standing with legs far apart) or has his legs parked in (standing with legs close together), this can be a sign of hoof or back pain unless the horse is a breed that naturally parks out. If the horse frequently shifts his weight on his front feet, that could be a sign of navicular disease. If you see any of these behaviors, it’s not necessarily a deal-breaker but it’s a good idea to take note of them and talk to your veterinarian about them during your pre-purchase exam.

How Does the Horse Respond to Being Saddled?

Pay attention to the horse’s attitude about being saddled. Many horses can be a little grouchy when you tighten the girth, but if a horse turns into a fire-breathing dragon with a mane, it might mean that he has back or ulcer issues. Also, check to see if the horse easily takes the bridle or if he holds his head up when you try to put the bridle on or freaks out when you take it off.

Things to Look For In the Saddle

Always ask the owner to ride first. Not only can you see if the horse is safe before you get on, but you can also see how the horse moves from the ground. Ask the owner to walk, trot and canter.

Can the Rider Easily Get on the Horse?

Does the horse stand still for the rider to get on from the ground? Will he stand quietly next to a mounting block or is he moving away and walking off?

Is the Horse Sound?

Pay attention to the legs. Is the horse short-striding on one leg? Is it “bunny hopping” in a canter? Again, a limp could be the result of something like a small field injury but it could also mean big trouble for the long-term soundness of the horse. If you see any soundness issues, consult with your vet.

How is the Horse Holding His Head?

A horse’s head position can tell you about his soundness. If a horse is bobbing his head excessively in a trot, this can be a sign of front-end lameness, another sign of navicular. A horse that holds his head extremely high during the trot or canter can either need more training, have mouth or teeth issues, or could be indicating pain either from saddle fit or lameness.

Does the Horse Know His Leads?

When the horse is cantering, pay attention to the leads. Although a good trainer can teach you and the horse how to get the correct lead, it’s still something to look for if you plan on showing the horse.

Can You Ride the Horse Off by Himself?

One of the most frustrating bad habits a horse can develop is barn and buddy sourness. This means a horse gets anxiety when he leaves behind his home and friends. Even if you plan on using the horse for trail riding with others, it’s important that he has the confidence to leave them without a fight.

How Do You Feel About the Horse?

If this horse is checking all your boxes, the next thing to ask yourself is how you feel. It’s important to be honest with yourself here. Sometimes we get caught up in a horse’s color or the excitement of the day but we need to stop and take time to really feel the horse’s energy. Does he have a comfortable gait? Do you feel safe? Is he friendly on the ground? Can you see yourself connecting with this horse?

I’ve Asked All the Questions — Now What?

Just remember, if you really like the horse but there’s an issue with something mentioned above, talk to the owner—and, if applicable, your trainer—about your concerns. If it’s not the right fit, it’s okay to walk away. It’s also okay to take a moment to think about your decision and discuss your feelings with trusted individuals like a trainer. And the importance of a pre-purchase exam by a licensed veterinarian is paramount. They can be a bit pricey but are worth it if it keeps you from purchasing a horse that you can’t ride or isn’t exactly what you want.

And the most important thing—have fun with it. Buying a horse is a huge decision but an exciting one. Enjoy the experience of riding other horses and searching for your new best friend!

This ultimate guide of questions to ask when buying a horse is a web exclusive for Young Rider and Horse Illustrated magazines. Click here to subscribe!

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We worry about our horses being too hot or too cold or exposed to sudden weather fluctuations. We stand in stores reading fly spray labels to determine which might work best and fret about whether a rain sheet, mid-weight, or heavy turnout rug is necessary, only to then worry about our horse sweating or shivering under it if we pick the wrong one.

Therefore, it’s not surprising that our overworked minds might miss something. Problems pop up like pasture weeds. Here are 10 potentially problematic horse care mistakes to keep on your radar.

1. Over-Blanketing

Opinions about blanketing horses are as fraught with emotion as those about keeping newborn babies warm. Is the baby cold? Too warm? Is the blanket too tight, too loose? When should it be removed? The decision to blanket depends primarily upon weather conditions, temperature, available shelter, and your horse’s hair coat.

If your horse lives outdoors and wears a turnout rug, it should be removed daily for grooming while his skin is checked for rubs and his overall body condition is noted. Clipped horses have their natural protection removed, and need heavier blankets than horses with natural coats. Rain sheets and mid-weights are often enough for unclipped horses, while heavy rugs and neck covers are usually needed if the horse is clipped, thin, or used to a warmer climate.

Many healthy animals with a natural coat don’t need blanketing in winter as long as they have access to shelter from wind and precipitation. Blankets should always be removed if your horse is sweating underneath. It’s easier and far worse for a horse to overheat than be uncomfortable from cold or breezy weather, so err on the side of under-blanketing instead of over-blanketing.

2. Moldy Hay

Buying hay is always a challenge and has become more so in the last decade. Small square bales have given way to large ones, and round bales are practically impossible to assess for quality.

Drought conditions have made the supply smaller, with farmers baling fewer cuttings every year. Prices are high, requiring long searches for good hay in a tough market. Too often, when hay prices get high, horse owners are tempted to lower their standards and feed bales they would typically reject. This is risky, since bad hay causes respiratory problems and can be fatal if it is contaminated with blister beetles or toxic plants.

Never mistake tight, heavy bales or a green tint for quality, as weight can indicate that the hay was baled damp and the green color can be sprayed on like a faux lawn. There’s no substitute for your eyes and nose.

Learn what good hay looks and smells like and always inspect a few bales before you purchase. Even if you board your horse, always keep a close eye on what he is eating and insist on quality hay.

3. Dusty Bedding

Dusty bedding, hay, and arena footing can trigger equine asthma, a respiratory disease that is much harder to treat than to prevent. When buying pine shavings, check the wrapper to make sure you are buying the dust-free option. The cheaper products can become very expensive if your horse ends up with a persistent cough.

Shredded newspaper is the lowest-dust bedding available, although it may not be feasible to find in all areas. Straw bedding is the highest in dust.

4. Cluttered Barn Aisles

Your barn aisle is ground zero for your horse activities. It should be de-cluttered periodically and assessed for safety.

A horse may have gone in and out of his stall without incident for years, but it only takes one mistake for a door handle to slice his flank enough to require stitches. Protruding tack hooks and slippery footing are other avoidable accidents waiting to happen.

Cross-ties should always have breakaway hardware fastened closest to the wall so if you need to unfasten it in an emergency, you aren’t as close to a panicking horse. A loop of baling twine between the hardware and the wall hook is another breakaway point that will hold everyday forces but gives in case of a panicked pull-back.

Another potential hazard is the placement of feed containers in the aisle in front of stalls. Many horses are escape artists, and nothing tempts them like available food they know is just inches away.

5. No Pre-Purchase Vet Check

Both experienced and novice horse buyers often skip a pre-purchase exam for a variety of reasons: cost, inconvenience of scheduling, not knowing a local veterinarian where the horse is located, and believing they have the skills to detect conformation flaws or signs of looming disease.

A pre-purchase exam is not a health guarantee because the vet is only examining what exists the day of the exam, but any major issues will be a red flag to a professional who treats horses on a regular basis.

Laminitis has a lingering imprint in the ridges on a horse’s hooves; a heart murmur declares its presence through a stethoscope; and lameness is often subtle and difficult to detect—all are best assessed by a veterinarian. The fee for this service is tiny compared to owning a horse that you can’t sell in good fait.

6. Contracts for Horse Sales or Lease Agreements

The era of closing a horse sale with a handshake is long gone, yet many purchase agreements today have an abysmal paper trail. We live in a world that requires documentation as protection against lawsuits and disputes between parties who can’t remember the details of the original transaction.

7. Failing to Pre-Check Your Trailer

You’ve probably been there before: You’re in such a hurry to get on the road to the horse show or late for that trail ride that you skip the checklist of pre-departure truck, hitch and trailer inspections before starting the engine.

Owning a new trailer does not preclude a safety check on door and window latches, air vents, butt bars (if you have them), tire inflation, trailer lights, hitch connections, and electric wiring. Trailer windows should be open (with grills closed) based on weather and predicted inside temperature once underway. Most of the time, the temperature inside the trailer is much hotter than outside.

8. Buying and Keeping an Unsuitable Horse

Far too many people fall in love with a horse at first sight (or photo), throw caution to the wind and buy it, only to soon discover he’s not suited to their skills or needs. Disappointed new owners may resist selling because they are already emotionally committed. This situation typically ends with the horse as a pasture pet or the owner hiring a costly trainer to fix what usually can’t be fixed—an unhappy owner paired with an unsuitable horse.

Buy a horse for what you want to do with him, not because he’s a fashionable breed or has a flashy coat. Buyers should remember the adage, “A good horse is never a bad color.”

9. Trying New Things While Your Horse is Distracted

Don’t set yourself up for failure by ignoring obvious warning signs when teaching your horse something new. Cold, windy weather is not the best time to introduce sidepassing or trail riding. Impending storms often usher in erratic behavior in horses and cause problems under saddle.

Avoid trying to train when the arena is filled with distractions like jumping ponies and galloping reiners. Your horse learns better when he can focus. Likewise, don’t expect concentration when it’s feeding time and all of the other horses are happily digging into their meal.

10. Spoiling Your Horse

Horses are like children in that they will take advantage of weak leadership, and they occasionally need correction. Failing to assert yourself as the leader of your “herd of two” usually ends in disappointment, if not injury.

If you can’t assert yourself enough to do this, your horse will step right into the role. Watch two horses turned out together and you’ll see they settle who is in charge within minutes, and every breach of that agreement will be challenged. Horse owners should never fall for the myth that horses love those who placate and spoil them. Horses respect clear leadership, not pushover love.

Every horse owner has made one of these mistakes in horse care and horsemanship, and probably asked themselves later why they didn’t listen to their inner voice telling them another day would be better to try something new. There is no need to learn a lesson the hard way!

This article about common horse care mistakes appeared in the November/December 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Vetting a horse in a pre-purchase exam (PPE) isn’t like looking into a crystal ball. A PPE can’t predict a life-threatening or career-ending injury or a catastrophic diagnosis. Nor is the exam meant to foretell a horse’s future health or anticipate maladies that he may incur, but like a house inspection, the purpose is to provide some reassurance for you as the potential buyer.

Questions to Ask When Buying a Horse

Before scheduling a PPE to cement your commitment to buying your dream horse once you’ve finally found him, you have some homework to do.

Begin with the following questions: What’s your skill level as a rider? What is the horse’s potential job­—reiner, jumper, trail horse? Does your trainer have a role in whether or not you purchase the horse? What is your financial situation? Can you afford long-term maintenance costs for a pre-existing condition?

According to Luke Bass, DVM, faculty member in the Equine Field Services Department of Colorado State University, the PPE reviews a horse’s medical history and an evaluates his current physical condition.

“We want to know the entire history of the horse, but it’s important to get your hands on the horse with a physical examination,” says Bass. “We’re not there to persuade the buyer one way or the other. We’re presenting facts. Some facts scare people, but it depends on what they’re willing to manage. For example, if a buyer is only going to ride a horse a couple of times a month, that’s different from showing a horse once a week on a national circuit. The pre-purchase exam isn’t an insurance policy, either. The exam is more like a house or vehicle inspection, allowing the buyer to have some confidence that they’re making the right decision when buying a horse.”

You’ll benefit from evaluating a horse for your current needs and future goals as your skills and goals advance and the partnership develops. You’ll want to assess the level of risk you’re willing to take and factor in potential health expenses and management requirements in your decision to buy or pass on a horse.

“Many people don’t exactly know what to look for when they’re buying a horse,” says Bass. “For example, parents will bring their 12-year-old daughter to ride the horse. They get along, but maybe the parents aren’t so savvy on medical conditions that may impact that relationship in the future. We want to ensure that we’re helping them make the right decision for their kid or themselves.”

The Changing of Pre-Purchase Exams

Older horse owners remember the simpler days of a PPE. The results were equally fundamental: Is the horse sound? Does he need his teeth floated? Is he generally healthy?

The content, complexity, and cost of a PPE has ballooned over the past 10 years, according to Diana DeBlanc, DVM, owner of Performance Equine Veterinary Services in Albuquerque, N.M.

“When I started practicing 25 years ago, a pre-purchase exam was pass/fail,” she says.

“I think the mindset has changed. If you’re a practitioner in the performance world, you have to be realistic and realize that you can find something wrong with every horse. Having ridden performance horses myself, I’ve always done my pre-purchases knowing that we may find an issue, but is this an issue that the owner wants to take on if it’s manageable? For example, a horse may exhibit [arthritic] changes in his hocks, but we may expect it with his job, and we can maintain it.”

The ballooning complexity and cost of a PPE over the past 10 years can influence the exam’s content, according to DeBlanc. For you as a buyer, determining whether a horse is healthy and sound may differ from someone who wants to dig deeper with advanced imaging.

As potential buyers become more educated and aware, PPEs evolve.

“Some people want me to listen to a horse’s heart and lungs, flex the legs, and make sure the animal is healthy,” says DeBlanc. “Other buyers want every bit of data and diagnostics available, including a menu of joint X-rays, an endoscope, and more.”

The ladder of a PPE’s content swells with each component, as does the cost. A PPE for the average horse owner ranges from $250 to $500. Four radiographs add around $200. A drug screen will set a buyer back $300 to $500.

Establishing a budget and understanding how costs can climb provide a guideline for your pocketbook prior to an exam.

A Menu of Options

Possible neurologic disorders, a higher risk of breed-specific genetic problems that have yet to surface, dental imperfections that affect a horse’s ability to perform, or conditions only confirmed by a blood test have changed how a PPE is executed.

The menu of options available could include such diagnostics as digital radiographs to detect bone splints or damage to the navicular bone, or ultrasounds to highlight soft tissue injuries in tendons and ligaments. An endoscopy examines the upper breathing airway, while a gastroscopy may be recommended for a horse with a history of gastric ulcers.

Drug screens are standard with PPEs for upper-level and financially valuable horses. These detect the presence of sedatives, steroids, anti-inflammatories, or pain killers used to mask pain or unsoundness, or to unnaturally enhance a horse’s speed or power.

However, customizing a PPE with advanced diagnostic tests can send the budget spiraling and may not be necessary. For example, an upper-airway endoscopy may be warranted if a horse exhibits coughing or stress during exercise, but it may not be needed if his breathing is normal.

Bass stresses three key areas where PPEs have changed the most: imaging techniques, communication skills, and buyer education.

“You probably still have to X-ray the legs, and maybe even ultrasound soft tissues, but the things that have changed the most are probably the evaluation of the axial skeleton and the impact that can have on the performance of the horse,” says Bass.

Open and honest communication channels between the buyer, seller and veterinarian pave the way for a thorough and accurate PPE. Communication skills for vets have evolved, too, according to Bass.

“I’m asking questions that allow me to learn more about the horse efficiently,” he says. “Veterinarians should ask a lot of open-ended questions and gather perspective from all parties. That’s our job.”

The Weight of Buying a Horse

The decision to buy a horse or pass on it is yours alone. Unsolicited but well-intended advice should never replace a thorough presentation of facts, scientific opinion, and approaches for maintenance and care required in light of an exam’s findings.

Every horse purchase is weighty and requires fairness, according to Bass.

“I try to treat every horse the same, whether it’s a backyard horse selling for $2,000 or a $1.5 million racing stallion. I want the buyer to have confidence that we are doing the pre-purchase exam the same way for every horse.”

This article about pre-purchase exams when buying a horse appeared in the September 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Buying a Horse: The Pre-Purchase Exam appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Home Sweet Home

Before buying or adopting a new horse, first things first. Where will your horse live? You will either need to find a boarding barn, or if you plan on keeping the horse at home (or the home of a friend or family member), make sure the facilities are safe and have everything your horse needs.

Boarding can have several upsides, such as knowing someone is taking care of your horse if you go out of town or get busy with school some days. You can meet new friends and have other people to ride with. Also, you won’t be unloading hay or fixing fences on weekends.

If you prefer home horsekeeping, you’ll have the advantage of managing your horse’s feed and turnout schedule exactly the way you like it. However, the facilities may not be as fancy (multiple arenas, jumps, et cetera) and you are responsible for all of your horse’s care.

If you decide to board, ask your friends for recommendations and carefully inspect the facility. It should have safe fencing (no barbed wire!) and look neat and tidy, with clean stalls and water buckets or troughs full of fresh water. The horses on the property should all look healthy and well-fed.

If bringing your horse home, make sure all of the fencing is safe and strong and your horse has a run-in shed for protection from the elements in his turnout field. You will also need a place for storing tack and feed, a flat place to ride, and a covered location for storing hay. Grain needs to be stored securely in a latching bin in a place where horses can’t get into it. Overindulging on rich grain can cause colic, laminitis and other very serious problems.

The Need for Feed

Before buying or adopting your new horse and picking him up, ask what he is currently eating. Does he get any grain or sweet feed? Alfalfa or grass hay? It’s very important not to suddenly change a horse’s diet because it can cause him to colic.

If you will be switching your horse to a different type of hay or grain, do so gradually. Spend at least a week giving him 50 percent of his old food and 50 percent of his new food. This allows his body to adjust instead of having a sudden shock.

Most boarding barns feed standard amounts of hay and grain, but don’t be afraid to tell the barn owner if your horse has special dietary needs (such as no grain or a certain type of feed). A good barn will want to keep your horse healthy like you do!

Vet & Farrier

You’ll also want to have a vet and farrier lined up to keep your new horse healthy. Ask your horsey friends in the area or others at your boarding barn who they use. Many equestrian areas have a vet hospital that can send out a vet on short notice, so put that phone number on your speed dial.

Also ask who your barn or friends use for shoeing. Find out if the price is within your budget and make sure to meet the farrier the first time he shoes or trims your horse so you can see how he treats the horse.

A Good Teacher

Plan on taking riding lessons with your new horse so that you can keep improving your skills and work through any training problems that arise as you get to know each other.

Stable Supplies

Now comes the fun part. Before picking up your new horse, take a trip to the tack store! Start with a halter and lead rope. You’ll also need a basic grooming kit: curry comb, hard brush, soft brush, hoof pick, mane and tail brush, sweat scraper and a tote to keep it in.

Extra items you may need include fly spray, a fly mask, shampoo and detangler. It’s also time to put together a simple first-aid kit including a thermometer, antiseptic wound cleanser and treatment, and bandaging materials.

Find out what kind of bit your horse goes best in, and what size, and buy the same type. Most horses can be ridden in a gentle snaffle of some type. Get a properly fitted bridle, as well as a girth or cinch and saddle pad.

If you are going to use a saddle you already own, make sure your trainer or a knowledgeable saddle fitter checks it out on your new horse before riding off into the sunset. If it pinches, rocks, or rubs, your horse could become back sore for a long time. (Check out “If the Saddle Fits” from our September/October 2017 issue.)

If your horse is at home, you’ll need a wheelbarrow and manure fork for stall cleaning, a water trough for the field, and a feed trough and buckets for the stall. Make sure your parents have a mower to maintain the pasture and plan for manure removal/disposal.

Your new horse may also need a seasonal wardrobe, depending on the weather where you live: blankets for winter and flysheets and masks in the summer.

Horse Grooming Kit

Here is a grooming kit that you will need before picking up your new horse:

• Curry comb
• Soft brush
• Medium or stiff brush
• Hoof pick
• Mane/tail brush
• Wide tooth comb
• Pulling comb
• Large body sponge
• Small sponge for face
• Sweat scraper
• Hoof dressing
• Coat polish spray
• Fly spray
• Clippers

Basic Equine First Aid Kit

Here is a basic equine first aid kit that you will need before picking up your new horse:

• Phone number for regular vet and emergency vet
• Roll cotton
• Self-adhesive bandage
• Gauze pads (assorted sizes)
• Adhesive cloth tape
• Duct tape
• Leg wraps (pillow wraps and stable bandages)
• Scissors
• Rectal thermometer
• Surgical scrub and antiseptic solution
• Wound ointment
• Flashlight
• Eye wash
• Clean towels
• Epsom salts

Meeting the Herd

Before introducing your horse to his new best friends, many boarding barns require a week or more of quarantine time. If he appears to be healthy with normal temperature at the end of quarantine, he’ll be released to join the herd.

It’s best to introduce new herd mates over a fence at first. This way they can sniff each other, squeal, and whirl about with less chance of kicking and injuring one another. Once everybody has settled down (which may take minutes or days), try putting them in the same pasture with supervision for 20 minutes or so to make sure they are happy.

Occasionally a horse just won’t be accepted into a new herd, or get along with a particular pasture mate. Always try to find the most compatible group for your horse to keep him as safe as possible.

Now you’re ready to get riding and enjoy your new horse!

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2017 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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