Banding your horse’s mane can be a challenge. But you don’t have to resign yourself to a messily banded mane or having to pay someone else to do the job. Jess Duffy, assistant trainer at Aaron Moses Show Horses in Pilot Point, Texas, shares tips to make your horse’s banded mane look neat and uniform. With some practice, you can make your horse’s mane look professionally banded—and maybe even offer your services to other riders for extra cash.

Why Band a Mane?

Most horses showing in western judged events step into the pen with an expertly banded mane. A few reiners today are sporting bands with their long manes. Duffy says this helps the mane stay put and flatters the horse’s neck.

“A good banding job gives a finished look, especially if you have white bands and they’re all in a nice line,” says Duffy. “It just gives an edge over your competition.”

Duffy says halter horses are often banded with rubber bands that match the mane. These days, white bands are king in the other events.

Getting Started with Mane Banding

Before you start, wash your horse’s mane and allow it to dry; no conditioner needed. Your horse’s mane should ideally be about 4 to 5 inches long. You’ll be trimming it to about 2 inches long after you band, so don’t worry about making it the perfect length just yet. Duffy doesn’t thin the mane.

Then assemble your tools. Duffy uses Super Band white bands, a small comb, baby oil gel, a very sharp pair of scissors and a pair of pantyhose.

The Process of Mane Banding

Duffy starts at the base of the neck at the withers, rather than by the head. “Sometimes if the horse is a bit touchy around the ears, by the time I get up there they’re used to it,” she says.

Duffy learned how to band from her mom, Vicky Gough, who also used pantyhose as a secret tool. She ties the pantyhose around the horse’s neck to help hold back the mane she’s not working with while she bands. “Pantyhose keeps the hair out of the way better than a hairclip would,” she explains.

Sectioning off about an inch-wide piece of mane with her comb—making sure the part is perfectly perpendicular to the ground, and each section is the same size as the one previously banded—she’ll dab a bit of baby oil gel on the hair to protect her hands from the friction of the band.

She will then begin twisting the band around from the bottom of where she wants it to lay on the hair to the top, ending closest to the mane after about 12 wraps. As she wraps, she keeps her hands close to the horse’s neck to pull the section down and avoid it sticking up.

“Even if the band isn’t extremely tight, it’s more important to have them in a straight line when you’re done rather than have them all super tight against the neck,” says Duffy. “As you’re working, step back frequently and make sure it’s even.”

When you’re all done banding, go back with your scissors and trim the ends of the mane so that they’re perfectly even. Make sure to stand back and check your progress, and cut the hair underneath as well.

The Forelock

Don’t forget the forelock! Duffy bands down the base of the forelock.

Starting at the top of the poll, make a part so the section is a square of hair. Band just as you did with the mane.

Moving down the forelock at equal intervals, make a part to form a section and band it. Once you’ve reached the end of where the hair grows from the head, make one last section and band it, pulling the back pieces of hair to hold the forelock down to avoid it sticking out.

Troubleshooting

For a multi-colored mane, Duffy would pick one color to band the whole mane. If your horse has a white mane, consider using black bands for contrast.

If your horse has a thick mane, you can make each section slightly smaller. In the thinner part of the mane, avoid making sections too wide.

“You’re better off keeping the width of your sections the same,” says Duffy.

Preserving Your Work

Ideally, you’ll band your horse the day you’ll be showing, leaving little time for your horse to mess it up. Duffy sprays a banded mane with hairspray, then covers it with a slinky hood to protect the bands. A good banding job can last a day or so if the horse doesn’t rub.

This step-by-step guide on mane banding appeared in the June 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A big part of what makes those thick manes and tails is genetics. Some horses are simply destined for flowing locks, while others are born with the wispy look. There are certainly some things you can do to encourage healthy hair growth, but keep in mind that not every horse is born to grow the kind of mane and tail you might admire on a Friesian or an Andalusian.

Maintaining a Mane

If you compete in hunter/jumper, dressage, eventing, or western pleasure, you’ll most likely take good care of your horse’s mane and keep it short. If your horse has thick hair, you can do this by pulling the mane. This helps keep it tidy and makes it much easier to braid or band for shows.

How to Pull a Mane

1. Pick through the mane to remove any tangles, then comb a small section and grasp the few longest hairs from that section.
2. While holding on to the longest strands, use your mane comb to comb the shorter hairs back up toward the roots.
3. With the shorter hairs out of the way, wrap the remaining long strands around the comb and pull straight down. If you only do a few hairs at a time, this shouldn’t require a hard tug—just a careful pull will do.
4. Work your way up the mane one small section at a time. If your horse gets really antsy during the process, or if you have a horse whose mane is already very thin, you can shorten the mane by blading. You can purchase a specially designed mane-shortening comb or use an old clipper blade and follow a similar process. Instead of wrapping hair around the comb and pulling, you’ll use the blade to razor off the longest hairs.

Either of these methods is preferable to using scissors to cut straight across, which will leave your horse with a blunt, unnatural look.

Long Manes

If you compete in speed events, reining, cattle events, saddle seat, or if you don’t participate in horse shows, you aren’t required to shorten your horse’s mane at all, but you should still take care of it.

The upside of this is that you don’t have to bother your horse with the mane-pulling procedure. The downside is that longer manes can easily get tangled and dirty unless you put in some extra effort every day.

The best thing you can do with a long mane is carefully detangle it with your fingers every time you groom your horse. Don’t tear through it with a comb or brush, as that will just rip out some of the hair. Take your time and work through any knots, untangling a few hairs at a time. Pick out any bits of hay, burrs, and dried mud as you go. Doing this as often as possible makes a huge difference in preventing bad knots from forming.

If you encounter a particularly tricky knot, spray some detangler directly on it to help loosen up the hairs. Using a spray-on coat conditioner makes your horse’s hair slick and shiny and can prevent new tangles from forming.

If your horse grows a very long, thick mane that you’d like to preserve, sectioning it into regular braids will prevent tangles from forming. You’ll need to take the braids out and redo them regularly to make sure they don’t become too dirty or matted.

Bath Time

Most of the time, you won’t need to give your horse’s mane and tail a full wash, but it’s important to take care of both the mane and tail. Every so often, such as before a show or if your horse has gotten especially muddy, it’s time for a shampoo.

Wet the mane or tail down, then work in your favorite horse shampoo, really getting down to the roots of the hair. A lot of dirt can get stuck at skin level, and that can lead to skin problems and itching, so make sure you give a thorough scrubbing.

Finally, rinsing is just as important as scrubbing! Soap left on the horse’s skin can cause irritation as it dries, so be sure to rinse thoroughly down to the roots with the hose until the water is running off clear and free of suds.

Note: Whenever you’re washing or working with your horse’s tail, be sure to stand off to the side and pay attention in case he stomps or kicks at flies.

Keep your horse’s long tail clean and protected from breakage. Tap here to learn how to wrap up your horse’s tail.

All of these tips will be sure that a horse owner will be able to take good care of their horse’s mane and tail.

This article originally appeared in the March/April 2019 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Before You Begin

Fortunately, there are lots of shortcuts for quick grooming you can take and still have a very presentable horse. Some of these tips involve advance planning and prep. Look at the time spent as an investment; it will pay off when you’re in a hurry but still want your horse looking as good as possible.

For starters, although you’ve probably heard it before, a truly shiny horse is a reflection of overall health and good nutrition. No amount of last-minute bathing, brushing and product application produces the same luster.

Next comes the most effective coat conditioning product: elbow grease. This means currying and brushing your horse as much and as often as you can. Not only does this remove dirt and dander, it brings out the coat’s natural oils and distributes them evenly.

Tools for Success in Quick Horse Grooming

Organizing your brush box or grooming tote is one of the keys to successful quick horse grooming. Having everything you need in one place makes a big difference. In addition to your usual assortment of grooming tools, include items to help when you need to speed-groom. Here’s a suggested list of items and their uses.

Basic Brush Box Contents

◆ Hoof pick
◆ Curry comb
◆ Medium to stiff body brush
◆ Soft body brush
◆ Mane and tail comb or brush
◆ Towel
◆ Scissors

Suggested Extras to Have for Grooming:

◆ Hoof pick with brush to help remove dirt. Use the brush to help remove clumps of dirt or dried mud, and to thoroughly clean the sole before applying hoof conditioner.

◆ Soft curry. Use this to help loosen dirt and dried sweat from areas where a regular curry is too hard, such as lower legs and head.

◆ Small stiff brush for removing wet mud from hooves. Having a stiff brush dedicated to cleaning muddy hooves saves your other brushes.

◆ Shedding blade. Even in non-shedding season, a shedding blade can help remove mud or dirt, but be careful to use it gently.

◆ Sheepskin grooming mitt, chamois cloth or microfiber towel. Use one of these instead of a regular towel to give your horse a final dusting; any of them will pick up more dust and dirt than terrycloth.

◆ Baby wipes are great for several things, such as wiping off the face, cleaning a dirty muzzle or nostrils and swiping out ears. They’re also handy for flyaway hairs on manes and tails; simply wipe on to help lay the hair down.

◆ Waterless shampoo or spot cleaner. Use on cold days or when you need to clean a small area.

◆ Coat conditioner or polish: Spray directly on the horse, or use it on a brush or towel to help bring out your horse’s shine. It’s also good for reducing static.

◆ Detangler is always handy for manes and tails.

The Routine for Quick Grooming

Now that you’re well supplied, try this quick grooming routine the next time you’re in a hurry to get a clean horse.

1. Pick the hooves. By doing this first, you won’t forget later.
2. Apply detangler to the mane and tail.
3. Use the shedding blade on the horse’s body to lift up dirt.
4. Use your medium or stiff brush, always brushing in the direction of the hair.
5. Spray coat conditioner on your grooming mitt or towel and wipe your horse, reapplying the spray regularly, and going all the way down the legs. By spraying the mitt or towel instead of applying directly to the horse you’ll avoid wet, blotchy areas. Remember to skip the saddle area if you’re using a “slippery” coat polish.
6. Brush out the mane and tail. (By now the detangler will have penetrated any snarls.)
7. Use a baby wipe to lay down any flyaway mane hairs and the top of the tail.
8. Wipe the face, muzzle and ears if needed with baby wipes.

That’s it! Your horse should be very presentable, if not sparkling, and you’re ready to tack up and enjoy some time in the saddle.

This article about quick horse grooming appeared in the April 2016 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Horse Grooming Secret #1: Get a Shiny Coat

To get your horse shining like a superstar, regular grooming is essential. A few tips and tricks will help you get the most megawatts out of your grooming sessions.

If you’re going for the gleam, make good use of your curry comb. Currying removes deep-down dirt, promotes circulation and helps distribute the natural oils in your horse’s coat. Plus, it’s like a mini-massage for your horse.

Rubber curry combs come in a variety of firm or flexible textures. Select one that your horse finds comfortable, and curry in small circles over your horse’s body. Follow with a medium-stiff brush, using short, brisk strokes with an upward flick to lift the dirt and loose hair you’ve brought up with your curry session. Finish with a soft brush to bring up the shine in your horse’s coat.

Although it’s not a replacement for currying and brushing, coat polish spray can also play a role in Project Shine. Beyond adding the final touch on show days, regular use can cut your grooming time and keep your horse looking fabulous. Used once or twice a week, it will make your grooming job last longer by repelling dust and can also help prevent stains on light-colored coats. Avoid spraying the saddle area though—these products make the coat slick and can cause your saddle to slip.

To achieve a truly healthy shine, your horse needs quality nutrition. Talk to your vet or an equine nutritionist to make sure your horse is on an optimal feeding plan. Supplements for skin and coat health can also help a challenging case with a blend of ingredients including fats, vitamins and biotin to support hair growth and shine. Or, simply adding a little vegetable oil to your horse’s feed—gradually working up to 1 cup—can help boost the bloom in your horse’s coat.

Horse Grooming Secret #2: Unravel a Tangled Mane or Tail

The gentlest way to detangle is to do it by hand, although you can also use a wide-tooth plastic comb. A mane and tail detangler makes the job easier so that the strands of hair slip apart without snagging and breaking. Many coat polish spray products also double as detanglers.

Apply the product evenly through the hair. Then start detangling from the bottom of the hair, working your way up. Work in small, manageable sections. To remove burrs, foxtails and large knots, apply detangler directly to the problem areas.

Once you can easily run your fingers through the hair, you can use a brush or comb if you wish. Many people believe that brushing is the worst thing for a tail, while others feel that brushing helps promote circulation at the roots, therefore promoting growth. If you opt to brush, choose a flat-backed brush with widely spaced, soft-tipped pin bristles. Hold the hair in one hand close to the top in order to avoid pulling on the root, and then brush below—again, working from the bottom up.

Horse Grooming Secret #3: Long, Luxe Locks

If you want your horse to have a long, glorious mane or tail, your goal is to minimize breakage. Avoid excessive brushing or combing. This is one case where less can be more: the less you handle the hair, the more precious strands you’ll preserve.

Remove debris, such as shavings and hay, from the hair daily. You can do this by hand, or a quick shake may be all that’s needed. Regular detangling (Tip #2) will keep major dreadlocks from forming and make the hair easier to maintain.

Keeping the mane and tail clean encourages growth as well. Shampoo weekly, scrubbing down to the roots. Be sure to rinse thoroughly. Follow with conditioner, focusing on the ends of the hair. Let the hair dry completely before combing or working with it.

To protect a long, full mane from snags and tangles, braid it in thick sections. Keep the braids loose at the crest so they don’t itch and encourage your horse to rub his mane. Redo the braids as needed, or once a week after shampooing and conditioning. A long mane requires regular care to look good and encourage growth, but the results can be spectacular.

Horse Grooming Secret #4: A Terrific Tail

The length and thickness of your horse’s tail is largely genetic, but a little pampering can help it reach its full potential.

A popular tail-maintenance technique is to braid the hair or put it in a protective tail bag to keep it clean and tangle free. Braid in a single loose plait below the tailbone. A tail bag attaches through the braid. Never fasten a tail bag over or around the tailbone, where it could cut off circulation. At the height of fly season, keep in mind that braiding and bagging will diminish your horse’s defense against bugs. This may prove problematic for pastured horses but be less of an issue for horses that live in a stall.

Tail rubbing is a major equine beauty buster that drives horse owners crazy. Possible causes include dry, itchy skin; parasites (pinworms); and the allergic reaction known as “sweet itch,” caused by hypersensitivity to insects. Soothing shampoo, targeted deworming and ramping up fly control measures are simple solutions to start with in these cases. Other types of skin and contact allergies can cause horses to turn to tail rubbing as well. Severe cases will likely require diagnosis and medication prescribed by your vet.

A dirty sheath or udder can also result in tail rubbing. Since horses can’t scratch these places, they’ll rub their hind end for relief instead. Click here for sheath cleaning instructions.

Horse Grooming Secret #5: A Tidy Trim

Some light cleanup work with the clippers will take your horse’s look from shaggy to sleek. Trimming the long hairs under his jawline, the shaggy feathers at his ankles and the tufts of hair sticking out of his ears creates a well-groomed appearance. High-level competition often calls for a more stringent standard of trimming, but this isn’t necessary for most horses.

Small clippers with a No. 10 blade are sufficient for this simple trimming job. Make sure your horse will tolerate the sound and feel of the clippers before you start. You’ll be mainly clipping with the direction of the hair growth to remove just the longest hairs for a blended appearance. (Clipping against the growth gives a closer shave.) However, when trimming your horse, you may find that you need to turn the clippers and brush over the top of the hair at an angle in order to blend it.

To trim the billy-goat beard under your horse’s jaw, run the clippers underneath in the direction of the hair growth from between his jowls to the groove in front of his chin. Angle the clippers as needed to get all the hair and blend it at the edge of the jawline.

Clean up shaggy fetlocks and long, wispy hairs on the back of your horse’s legs using the clippers with the direction of the hair. Turn the clippers to scoop out all the shag underneath the fetlock joint and behind the pastern.

The hair in your horse’s ears provides protection from bugs and gnats in summer and offers warmth in winter, so it’s best to not remove too much if your horse lives out on pasture. Hold the ear in your hand, gently press the sides together and remove the long hairs that protrude beyond the edge of the ear with your clippers. This levels off the hair inside the ear with the outer edge.

Trimming a bridle path will also give your horse a neater look by removing a little mane behind the ears, where the crownpiece of the bridle sits. You can use either clippers or small scissors for the job. Be careful not to get carried away and cut into the forelock or go too far down the neck, unless that’s the preferred style for your breed or sport. Otherwise, the bridle path is usually just a few inches long to easily accommodate the width of your bridle.

The whiskers on your horse’s muzzle have some sensory function, so many horse owners opt to leave these little feelers. Other horse owners find them untidy and clip them off. For the show-ring, a clean-cut look is expected in most arenas. A happy medium is to leave the whiskers but trim them for shows or special occasions.

Horse Grooming Secret #6: Bathing Beauty

Keep your horse’s comfort in mind and make bath time as easy as possible on him. Warm water will be appreciated by your horse if it’s available, and also opens the hair shaft to make your cleaning efforts more effective. An adjustable spray nozzle lets you dial the water pressure down for your horse’s sensitivity level as needed, and increase it for more efficient rinsing.

Diluting the shampoo in a bucket makes it easier to rinse from your horse’s coat. Some equine shampoos are concentrated and designed to be diluted before use, so read the directions on the product you are using. Also realize that more shampoo doesn’t necessarily result in a cleaner horse. Start with a small amount, and create more suds as needed. Work the shampoo down to the skin with a curry mitt or your fingers for a deep clean—that’s the secret. You can apply shampoo full-strength directly to the mane and tail.

It’s usually not necessary to use shampoo on the face and head. You don’t want to get soap in your horse’s eyes, and it can be difficult to rinse out completely. A damp towel or sponge should be sufficient to clean your horse’s face. For light-colored heads or white markings that need deeper cleaning, dip a sponge in diluted shampoo and follow up with a clean, damp rag to rinse.

Never use dish soap or other harsh detergents to bathe your horse. These will strip the oils from the coat and possibly irritate his sensitive skin. Equine shampoos and conditioners are formulated with a gentle pH while also being equipped to handle horses’ coarser haircoats and the tough dirt they get into.

It’s crucial to rinse well. Soap left in the coat dries it out, can cause itching and dandruff, and leaves a dull finish instead of the bright and shiny glow you want. To make sure your horse’s coat is soap-free, rinse and then use a sweat scraper to squeegee excess water from the coat. If you see soap bubbles, rinse and repeat until the water runs clear.

Hand graze your horse in the sun or leave him tied until he dries. If you put a wet horse back in his stall or field, the first thing he will naturally want to do is have a good roll, undoing all of your hard work. To repel stains from your horse’s clean coat and add extra shine, apply coat polish spray while he’s still damp.

Horses don’t require a full bath that often. A rinse with plain water will usually suffice to remove dirt and sweat after a workout. If you bathe your horse frequently, use a gentle shampoo designed specifically for horses, and follow with a conditioner as well. Conditioners strengthen the hair, restore moisture and smooth the coat to increase shine.

Horse Grooming Secret #7: Whiter Whites

Keeping your white or light-colored horse clean is a major grooming challenge. White socks and markings also require extra effort to stay sparkling. To keep stains from setting into the coat, keep up on regular grooming. Use waterless shampoos and spot removal products when bathing isn’t possible. Just spray on and use a towel to lift the stain. Simple spot cleaning with a bucket and sponge works too.

A specially formulated whitening shampoo will be your best friend in the wash rack. These shampoos usually have a blue or purplish tint to counteract the yellow cast a stained white coat often takes. Read the product directions carefully. Some whitening shampoos need to be left on, while others could leave a purple tint behind if too much is used or if they are left in the coat too long. Apply the shampoo as directed and scrub well for best results. Stubborn tail stains may require several sessions with a whitening shampoo to come clean. If your pony does turn purple, don’t panic. The excess color should scrub out with regular equine shampoo.

The post Horse Grooming Secrets appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here are some horse grooming challenges you are likely to encounter, and tips to clean them up.

Grooming Challenge: Mud

Horses are magnets for mud. They love to wallow and roll in it. The easiest way to manage mud is to hose it off. However, that’s not always possible. If it’s too cold to give your horse a rinse or you don’t have access to water, you have a few options.

The first strategy for the grooming challenge is to let it dry and then brush off as much as you can. If your horse will tolerate it, you can gently scrape the biggest chunks off his body with a metal curry or shedding blade. For more sensitive types, stick to a pebbled rubber grooming mitt or rubber curry. The grooming mitt works well on the legs and head. Follow up with a stiff or medium brush. This process will be time-consuming and requires plenty of elbow grease.

Never brush wet mud; this will only grind it deeper into the coat. Another option is to use a damp towel to remove as much of the mud as possible. (See “Cold Weather Bathing” below.) However, when it comes to horse grooming challenges, the best offense is a good defense. Prevent a winter mudfest by dressing your horse in a blanket that’s an appropriate weight for the weather. And adding coat polish spray to your grooming routine will help repel stains and keep mud from sticking to your horse’s coat. Be sure not to spray the slippery stuff in the saddle area, though.

Grooming Challenge: Bath-Time Battles

If your horse objects to bathing, here are some tips to make the situation more tolerable for him and safer for you both.

First, make sure your bathing area has non-slip footing so that your horse won’t fall if he starts to scramble. Keep the wash rack clear of buckets, shampoo bottles or anything he might step on or bump into, which can also intensify his fears. You want the experience to be as pleasant as possible for your horse. An adjustable nozzle with gentle spray settings can make the process more comfortable, and warm water is a plus if your barn has it. (Warm water is also more effective for cleaning.) While you’re working on your horse’s bath-time manners, you might find it helpful to have a friend hold him instead of tying him.

If your horse has never been exposed to a hose or wash rack, allow plenty of time to introduce the bathing process one step at a time. Don’t wait until the morning of a show or another high-pressure situation for your horse’s first bath and expect the job to go smoothly.

Start low and slow with the water. Direct the spray at your horse’s lower front feet and wait until he’s comfortable with that before progressing up his legs to the shoulder and body. Bring your patience! You may have to start with just one hoof in the water, if that’s what it takes. If your horse is very skittish, start with a sponge and bucket to get him used to water before introducing the hose.

Use plain water until your horse is ready to handle a full bath with suds. You don’t want to get stuck with a soapy horse that won’t let you get near him with the hose.

And most horses, even those who are old pros with the bathing process, don’t appreciate a hose blasting their face either. Use a cloth or sponge to clean your horse’s head.

Get a step-by-step, illustrated guide to bathing your horse >>

Cold-Weather Bathing

When it’s too cold to bathe your horse, you can still accomplish quite a bit of cleaning with a bucket of water and a few towels.

Supplies needed:

◆ 5-gallon bucket

◆ Several old towels

◆ Rubber kitchen gloves

◆ Fleece or wool cooler

◆ Coat polish spray

Step-by-Step Bucket Bath

1. Fill the bucket with warm water if it’s available. (You can use cold water if that’s your only option.)
2. Dunk a towel in the water and wring it out thoroughly. You may want to wear rubber gloves to keep your hands comfortable.
3. Working in small sections, towel your horse vigorously, going back and forth against the hair growth to lift dirt. If it’s very cold out, cover your horse with the cooler and just expose the part of the horse you are working on.
4. Follow with a dry towel in the same manner to remove excess moisture. Don’t be afraid to go against the direction of hair growth; this will allow you to get a deeper clean. Leaving the hair fluffed up helps to speed the drying process.
5. Change the water as needed, and replace your towel if it gets too dirty.
6. Wash your horse’s legs with the hose unless temperatures are too frigid.
7. To finish, spritz with a conditioning coat polish spray (skipping the saddle area) to give your horse’s coat an extra touch of shine and to help repel dirt and mud. Cover him with the cooler to keep him from getting chilled and to wick moisture from the coat.

Grooming Challenge: White Horse Woes

Is your once-white horse now shades of green/ brown/yellow? Get to know your two new best friends, the wash rack and whitening shampoo. Whitening shampoos for horses are specially formulated to whiten and brighten. These typically have a blue or purple tint to counteract yellowness in the coat. Apply the shampoo as directed; usually these need to sit for a few minutes to work their magic. But beware of leaving it on too long: Products that contain a bluing agent can leave a blue or purple tint behind. (If this happens, don’t panic. It should scrub out with regular non-whitening equine shampoo.)

To get the best results, be prepared to put in some effort. Scrubbing for that deep clean will give you the whitest white. Use a rubber curry, bath mitt or your fingers to work the suds into the coat and clean down to the skin. Warm water also cleans more effectively than cold water. Adjust your spray nozzle to the max pressure your horse will tolerate to remove any lingering dirt from your horse’s coat.

A deeply stained tail is one of the toughest grooming challenges, and may require several shampoos with a good whitening formula to show improvement. With a white horse, it’s crucial to keep up with regular grooming so that stains don’t set in. For quick cleaning, use one of the waterless spot-treatment products. These can be sprayed directly on the stain or applied with a sponge or towel. Scrub against the hair to lift the stain.

Grooming Challenge: Burrs

Burrs entangled in your horse’s mane, tail and forelock can be a grooming challenge to unsnarl. Staying on top of burr removal is essential to keep the challenge from getting out of hand. Once burrs become deeply embedded, it can be nearly impossible to remove them without cutting or pulling out hair.

Apply a coat polish spray or detangling serum directly to the burr, then work on removing it from the slicked strands, wearing gloves to protect your hands if necessary. Apply coat polish spray regularly to help keep burrs from sticking in your horse’s hair and avoid this horse grooming challenge.

Grooming Challenge: Mane-Pulling Madness

Mane pulling is a grooming challenge that requires constant upkeep to maintain the desired shortness and thinness. Some horses aren’t big fans of the process, which involves pulling out the hairs by hand. (See “Mane-Pulling Method,” below.) To make it more tolerable, try pulling fewer hairs at a time, and do a little bit every day instead of one big session, which will try your horse’s patience. Also wait until after a workout to pull, when your is warmed up and the hair comes out more easily.

You may be tempted to grab the scissors and hack it off, but this will leave it looking unnaturally blunt. If the mane is overgrown, you can cut it down to a more manageable size using thinning shears, a mane knife or clippers turned vertically so that you get somewhat of a natural-looking irregular edge. Try to make your cuts from the underside of the mane. You may still need to finish the job by pulling, but this will make the task less overwhelming.

If your horse has a sparse mane that needs shortening without losing volume, use a mane knife to razor it off to the desired length. Or, use scissors held vertically, going the same direction as the mane, and snip the ends.

Mane-Pulling Method

Grab a small section of hair in one hand and hold it firmly at the bottom. Keep holding those hairs, and with a small metal pulling comb in your other hand, backcomb the hair up toward the roots.

Wrap the hairs remaining in your fingers around the comb for leverage, and give a quick tug to remove them. Continue the process along the neck until the mane reaches the desired length and thickness.

Get a professional groom’s advice for pulling a horse’s mane >>

Grooming Challenge: Tail Rubbing Troubles

Tail rubbing is one of the most frustrating grooming challenges horse owners have to contend with. It’s disheartening to see a bald spot rubbed out at the top of your horse’s tail, surrounded by a frizz of broken hairs. Some horses will even rub themselves raw. But tail rubbing is more than just a bad hair day. Often, the cause is health related.

Common causes of tail rubbing include dry, itchy skin; parasite infestation (pinworms); or an allergic reaction caused by hypersensitivity to certain types of flies or gnats. Start by stepping up your fly-control measures. If you suspect parasites are the cause, check with your vet to make sure your horse’s deworming program is on the right track, and deworm your horse with the appropriate product.

A dirty sheath or udder can also result in tail rubbing. Since horses can’t itch these places, they’ll often turn to tail rubbing for relief. Schedule a sheath cleaning and see if that improves the situation. Also try cleaning under the dock of the tail with a baby wipe as part of your regular grooming routine.

For topical treatment, a soothing, moisturizing shampoo may alleviate the itchies, or some people find that an antifungal shampoo is beneficial when dealing with this grooming challenge. Scrub all the way down to the tail bone and be sure to rinse well, since leftover shampoo residue can be drying and irritating. You can try one of the many healing creams you’ll find at the tack store too: these typically contain ingredients with soothing, moisturizing or antiseptic properties, such as aloe, lanolin or tea tree oil. Many horse people swear by treatment with original antiseptic Listerine mouthwash for a popular home remedy; you can mix it with baby oil to add in moisture. However, do not apply Listerine on raw or broken skin, as the alcohol will burn.

If the tail rubbing is severe enough to cause abrasion or open wounds, you may be dealing with an infection that will need to be addressed. There are various types of allergies that can cause tail rubbing too. For persistent or severe cases, contact your vet for diagnosis and treatment.

Grooming Challenge: Tangled Tails

Less is often more when it comes to tail care. Preserve precious strands to get a long, luxurious tail. While tail thickness may be genetically determined, regular maintenance will keep your horse’s tail looking its best and prevent tangles from taking over. Regular detangling keeps big knots from forming and makes the hair easier to manage. If you want your horse to have a glorious mane or tail, your goal is always to minimize breakage. Avoid excessive brushing, and be gentle when handling your horse’s tail hair.

The gentlest way to detangle is by hand. A mane-and-tail detangling serum can make the job easier so that the strands of hair slip apart without breaking. Coat polish spray and shine products also do double-duty for detangling. Apply the product evenly throughout the hair. Start detangling from the bottom, working your way up in small, manageable sections.

Once you can easily run your fingers through the hair, follow up with a brush or comb if you wish. The right tools and technique are essential. Use a flat-backed brush with widely spaced, soft-tipped bristles or a wide-tooth comb to minimize damage. Hold the hair in one hand and brush below in order to avoid pulling on the root—again, working from the bottom up.

Even if you opt for a more minimalist approach to grooming your horse’s tail, at least remove debris such as shavings and hay from the hair. There are also measures you can take to keep your horse’s tail clean and tangle-free with less daily upkeep and less grooming challenges. Many people opt to braid the tail and cover it with a protective tail bag. This requires less daily maintenance, although you will need to periodically rebraid the tail. Shampoo and condition the tail and allow it to dry completely before you braid it. Always braid and bag below the tail bone; never attach a tail bag or anything else around the tail bone, where it could cut off circulation. Tail bags should also be monitored closely. Also remember that your horse’s tail serves as a fly swatter. If he lives out in a field or the flies are particularly vicious, braiding and bagging takes away his protection against the pesky insects.

More tips on grooming show-ready tails >>

Grooming Challenge: The Winter Woolies

Your horse has sprouted the coat of a yak. How do you deal with this grooming challenge? If your horse works up a sweat, it’s important to make sure he is cooled out and dried off before putting him away. When his winter coat is soaked, it loses its insulating properties, and your horse could become chilled. For equestrians with an active winter riding schedule, or those in warm climates such as California and Florida, body clipping is the answer. Using large, powerful clippers to zip off the winter coat will allow your horse to sweat less, dry quickly and be more comfortable when exercising. However, if you opt to body clip, you’ll need to commit to keeping him blanketed appropriately for the weather. This is a daily chore that can’t be neglected. A full-body clip is best for horses that are stabled full or part time.

If you live in a cold-weather climate and want to leave your horse with more natural protection during turnout, you might opt for a partial clip instead, although you’ll still have to blanket. A trace clip removes hair only from the underside of the neck, chest, belly and flanks where horses tend to sweat the most. The legs, back and topline still sport a full haircoat. The more minimal strip clip removes hair from the underside of the neck and part of the chest.

Body clipping takes some practice to master. It’s best to learn from an experienced clipper, but it’s really not hard to do. The key is good preparation with a clean horse, clippers that are heavy-duty enough for the task, and freshly sharpened blades, along with a spare set.

There’s no reason to clip if you ride only occasionally in the winter. But if your horse manages to work up a sweat, you need to cool him out and dry him off so that he doesn’t become chilled. Here’s one way to do the job: You’ll need several old bath towels and a cooler or sheet in a moisture-wicking material, such as fleece or wool. It helps to have an extra cooler on hand if the first one becomes soggy. After you untack, cover your horse with the cooler. Pull back the cooler to access one area at a time and give your horse a vigorous rubdown with your towel to remove as much moisture from the coat as possible. Rub against the direction of hair growth to fluff the hair up so it can dry. Change towels if the one you are using gets too wet. In addition to keeping your horse warm, the cooler will also help wick moisture from the coat. Your horse should be dry before you put his blanket back on.

This article about horse grooming challenges originally appeared in the 2015 issue of Your New Horse.

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