How you decide when to blanket—or not blanket—your horse can depend on many factors, including climate, coat length, access to shelter, his individual internal thermostat, health, age, and weight.

Understanding A Horse’s Coat

You’ve probably noticed that blanketing can be a controversial topic.

“Everybody has an opinion, but nobody seemed to have the science to back it up,” says Michelle DeBoer, Ph.D., an associate professor at the University of Wisconsin River Falls with a research interest in horse blanketing. She began her research with the goal of improving horse welfare and reducing stress for owners making blanketing decisions.

To understand how to blanket horses, we must understand how their natural coats work. According to DeBoer, a horse’s coat provides warmth using piloerection. Piloerection, which occurs in many kinds of animals, works when the hair stands up on end. When you see your horse’s coat “puff up,” it is actually creating air pockets underneath the hair follicles, which traps warmth.

Weather conditions may impact your horse’s ability to fluff up. For example, a wet coat cannot use piloerection, which creates a risk that your horse can become cold. According to the website for Mid-Rivers Equine Centre in Wentzville, Mo., snow can often be kept at bay by a thick coat. Heat can stay trapped within, resulting in snow simply sitting on top of the coat.

If the snow begins to melt, it may indicate that your horse’s coat is not insulating properly. On the other hand, heavy rain that breaks through the top layer of a horse’s coat and soaks down to the skin poses a risk in cold weather.

“Flattening the Coat”

Many owners are concerned about blanketing because they fear it may damage a horse’s natural coat and insulating ability.

A blanket should not have a significant negative impact on the natural coat’s insulation. According to Fernando Camargo, DVM, Ph.D., an associate professor at the University of Kentucky and Sarah Coleman, executive director of the Kentucky Horse Council, there is no research that indicates that putting a blanket on a horse will make them colder by flattening their coat.

If you’re concerned that blanketing today means your horse will need to be blanketed more in the future, there is little need for concern, according to DeBoer. It takes approximately five to 12 weeks to see a change in a horse’s coat due to blanketing, and the changes don’t seem to have long-term effects.

In other words, if you decide to blanket one winter, it does not doom you to blanket the same way next year and beyond.

Thermoneutral Zone

At what temperature should you start blanketing? This depends on the individual equine and weather conditions. However, DeBoer states that horses have a “thermoneutral” zone where they don’t use any extra energy to stay warm (or cool).

This temperature varies greatly depending on the horse’s climate. DeBoer says that horses adjusted to colder areas don’t start burning additional calories until it is 5 to 18 degrees Fahrenheit, while horses that are accustomed to warmer regions need to produce extra heat at around 41 degrees Fahrenheit. If wet, horses begin producing extra heat at around 59 degrees.

Similarly, Rutgers University’s Netti R. Liburt, Ph.D., and equine extension specialist Carey Williams, Ph.D., state that 59 degrees Fahrenheit is also the approximate bottom of the thermoneutral zone for a body-clipped horse or one with a summer coat.

Weight and Health

A heavier horse has a bigger insulating layer of fat, which will keep him warmer when the temperatures drop. An underweight horse, on the other hand, may feel colder sooner than other horses in the same weather conditions.

An overweight or healthy weight horse could perhaps stand to burn some of the extra calories it takes to stay warm in cold conditions, while a horse that is underweight, a hard keeper, or in poor health may not be able to spare the same calories.    

Hay Use

A horse’s digestive system creates significant amounts of heat while breaking down fiber in the hindgut, kind of like an internal wood stove, so forage is an important part of keeping a horse warm.

According to DeBoer, this also means that blanketing can help reduce hay use during the winter. In her study on horse’s dry matter intake and condition, she found that “blanketed horses had a reduced hay intake compared to non-blanketed horses.”

If barns and owners are experiencing a winter hay shortage, or don’t have good access to places to put lots of forage in their fields, this may be an option to consider. It also can be important for horses who are stalled overnight, and therefore may go longer periods without forage.

Shivering and Ear Check

Sometimes an owner may worry that they can’t tell if their horse is too cold. DeBoer says that shivering is her No. 1 way to check.

“If a horse is shivering, he is too cold,” she says. “While they can shiver for short periods of time and be OK, if they are required to shiver for a long period of time as a way to stay warm, it can lead to weight loss and health problems for the horse. I most often see shivering when it is wet and windy.”

DeBoer also suggests that a more subjective way of gauging your horse’s temperature is checking the base of his ears.

“This can be an indicator of your horse’s condition, as a cold horse will reduce blood flow to extremities in an attempt to conserve heat by keeping the majority of blood within the core of the animal,” she says.

DeBoer notes, however, that this is not an “end-all, be-all” method.

All of these factors can feel like a lot to consider, so it’s important to observe your horse for yourself. Is his weight dropping, is he shivering, or is he sweating and hot in his blanket? When it rains, does his undercoat remain dry, or is he immediately soaked through?

When you take the time to observe your horse, you will eventually develop an idea of how he reacts to different weather conditions.

“If you choose to blanket, you need to be more vigilant in managing your horse, but if you don’t, you want to make sure he has the resources to stay warm on his own, primarily adequate or extra hay and a shelter,” says DeBoer.

Blanket Away! (Mindfully)

Blankets are useful tools, and you may use them for a variety of reasons. In real-world situations, it may not be possible to constantly micromanage your horse’s warmth. Most unclipped horses that are a healthy weight can manage winter on their own, especially with good shelter access.

Throwing a heavy blanket on a horse and then leaving it on when the temperature rises again could potentially be just as harmful as a horse being cold.

“When we over-blanket, it can trap too much heat underneath the blanket,” says DeBoer. “Besides the obvious concern of making the horse uncomfortable, if he gets so warm he begins to sweat, this can create an environment that fosters skin infections or rain rot.”

When blanketing, always consider when you will next be able to check on your horse and switch his blankets. Consider your resources and time when deciding how to blanket.

Further Reading
◆ Best Horse Blanketing Practices
◆ Feeding Your Horse in the Winter
◆ Winter Horse Care FAQs
◆ Keeping a Horse Blanket Clean

This article about the science behind blanketing horses appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Science Behind Blanketing Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Horses are naturally equipped to handle the colder months; summer heat tends to cause them more trouble than winter temperatures. As soon as the days begin to shorten in the fall, hormones responsible for coat growth kick into action by beginning to produce longer and thicker hair as well as a thicker undercoat. In addition to daylight, temperature plays a role: thermoreceptors will perceive a cold autumn and trigger the growth of a thicker coat. If a horse is kept indoors or blanketed, horses adapt by producing less winter fur.

As soon as the days begin to lengthen in December, horses will stop producing warmer coats, even if January brings extreme cold. This isn’t something to worry about, as horses who have spent the seasons in the same place will have a well-established coat—even a sudden hard frost won’t be an issue. (This is why it’s best to transition a horse from an indoor situation to your outdoor stabling in spring or summer.) However, it’s important to have well-fitting blankets on hand in case a horse develops a problem regulating his temperature due to illness. I’m not a fan of preventative blanketing for outdoor horses, but this doesn’t excuse irresponsibility. Each horse should have at least one insulated blanket and a waterproof sheet, even if they both gather dust for years. At the end of the day, it’s better to have an unnecessary blanket in your closet than to have a shivering, wet horse out in a blizzard. Calling a vet at night is a much greater inconvenience and expense than finding good blankets for your horses.

One of the most frequently asked questions in the early days of outdoor horse keeping was whether horses were cold living out in the winter, and the answer, more often than not, was: they’re horses, not people… they’re fine! But many caretakers, especially with purebred horses, saw the exact opposite: simply put, their horses were cold. It doesn’t always require the coldest temperatures, but sometimes just a quick drop from warm to cool. Cold, wet weather can really have an impact on a horse’s well-being. Wild animals have far more options when it comes to finding shelter from the wind and cold. They can find shrubs, tree cover, or uneven terrain to protect them from wind gusts.

Maintaining an optimal body temperature is an absolute necessity for any warm-blooded organism. A constant body temperature ensures the normal functioning of bodily processes. The heat that a horse receives from his environment, together with the heat he produces, must be in equilibrium with output. If this equilibrium is disturbed, overheating or excessive cooling can make a horse very uncomfortable and even quite sick.

A horse’s muscle mass is excellent at retaining the heat produced by processes like digestion (fermentation of fiber in the intestines) and producing heat through exercise. A horse’s core isn’t subject to temperature changes based on his surroundings (because horses are warm-blooded), but the peripheral parts of the body (ears, hooves, skin) behave much like a cold-blooded animal’s would: they partially adjust to the ambient temperature, helping to maintain a stable core temperature. This is why you can’t tell whether a horse is cold by feeling his ears!

Temperature Management

Horses are excellent at regulating blood flow in the subcutaneous vascular network, which significantly influences temperature management of the entire body. Heat loss can be managed by vasoconstriction: blood flow is reduced in areas where blood would be cooled by being close to the surface of the skin. Horses are also able to cool off through vasodilation: by expanding these same blood vessels, surface contact is maximized and excess heat is transferred through the skin.

Skin, subcutaneous tissue, and fat act as powerful insulators. For this reason, it’s a good idea to have horses go into the winter season with a few fat reserves—they will be far less bothered by the cold than a skinny or underweight horse.

Also, a well-made shelter can help protect a horse from the worst weather—an animal protected by a shelter can save up to 25 percent more energy reserves than an unprotected one. This is no small thing on difficult days! Horses that aren’t as cold on a windy, heat-robbing day will consume hay at a more relaxed pace as well, saving some strain on your wallet. A well-thought-out shelter, whether you build new or rebuild by converting an existing building, is an investment which will pay you back over time.

Shivering

Some take a shivering horse as the definitive signal that it’s time to blanket. Others believe that because shivering produces heat, the horses are warming themselves and are actually fine. So what’s the real story?

Peripheral thermoreceptors are activated by the skin becoming cold. As soon as a horse’s usual defenses fail to maintain a comfortable temperature—hair bristling (increasing the coats’ ability to insulate against the cold) and vasoconstriction (narrowing of the subcutaneous blood vessels)—the horse will begin to shiver. Using muscle tremors, the body will be able to increase heat production by about 30 percent. But there’s a catch—this only works for a short time, and it uses a great deal of energy.

Unfortunately, the first horses to begin shivering are usually somehow compromised: skinny, sick, old, or recovering from illness or injury. These horses are the ones with the smallest energy reserves, but even a fat, healthy horse can’t produce heat for long by shivering—the energy necessary for such demanding work is exhausted early. Although the body has other defenses against the cold as well (accelerated metabolism, for example), their effectiveness is limited. Shivering should be considered a sign that your horse is headed toward hypothermia—don’t take it lightly.

Tip: If you aren’t sure whether your horse is cold, place a hand by the elbow of a front leg. If this area is cold, your horse is cold enough that he’s uncomfortable.

This excerpt from Keeping Horses Outdoors by Iveta Jebáčková-Lažanská is reprinted with permission from Trafalgar Square Books.

The post Is My Horse Cold? – An Excerpt from Keeping Horses Outdoors by Iveta Jebáčková-Lažanská appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Winter is here, and that lovely horse of yours—the one who looked gorgeous at the summer shows—is now hiding in a wooly mammoth coat. But even if the two of you plan to lay low this winter, don’t assume that you’re off the hook for regular grooming.

Besides keeping your horse looking good (or as good as fuzzy can look), regular winter grooming provides health benefits, too. A dirty coat isn’t as effective at keeping your horse warm, so it’s important to stay on top of major mud stains and dirt year-round.

But what if it’s 25°F and bathing your horse is out of the question? Here are a few grooming tips for your horse this winter so that you can keep him looking his best, even during the coldest months of the year.

1. Loosen the dirt

Long coat or not, you can easily (well, sort of easily) remove a great deal of the dust, dirt, and dried mud stuck in your horse’s long coat.

◆ Start with a curry comb or grooming gloves. While a basic curry comb is a good tool any time of year for removing muddy debris and dust, elbow grease is essential in the winter for removing dust and dirt from deep in your horse’s coat. Grooming gloves are similar, but they allow for a closer feel of your horse’s curved surfaces and can also be used on the face and legs.

◆ Try a shedding blade. The same shedding blade that comes in handy during your horse’s spring shed-out also works well to etch off those big dried mud stains.

2. Remove the dirt

But simply loosening the dust and dirt isn’t enough; you need to remove it as well.

◆ Brush with a flicking motion. A stiff-bristled dandy brush can be quite helpful for removing most of the dust you shook loose with the currycomb. Use your wrists to flick away all that dust. Softer body brushes can also be useful, and their gentle touch is required around your horse’s legs.

◆ Try a vacuum. If he’s cooperative with the idea (and it may take some careful training to get him there), using a horse-safe vacuum can be an excellent—and dry!—way to remove more dirt than you could probably achieve with brushing alone.

Some horse vacuums come with brush-like attachments to help you safely whisk away the dirt. This just might be your ideal winter bathing replacement, especially if you plan to attend a winter show, clinic, or other event.

3. Use a spot stain remover

During the summer, we often break out the hose to deal with things like sweat stains and green manure spots. If the temperatures are too cold for that, you may still be able to perform some spot cleaning without getting your horse very wet.

◆ Use a commercial product. Sometimes called a “waterless bath” or “waterless shampoo,” these products are (obviously) still moist, so you may have to avoid applying them on frigid winter days. But for mild winter days, these products can be a great way to clean your horse without soaking his entire coat, and they’re often quite effective at removing unsightly stains.

This technique may be more effective on clipped horses or those with naturally short winter coats, rather than super-fuzzy animals. After application, dry the spot with a soft towel.

◆ Try a home solution. For small stains, you might be able to clean them with a small towel dipped in rubbing alcohol, but you don’t want to overdo this method as it can dry out the horse’s coat.

4. Maintain manes and tails

Regular mane and tail grooming regimens apply to your horse in the winter just the same as the summer, but there are a couple of extra tips for preventive measures you can take:

◆ Try a mud knot for tails. Depending on your climate, mud can be a significant issue in the winter, but you can help protect your horse’s tail by using a simple mud knot. It will protect his tail and save on grooming time.

◆ Keep his mane shorter. If it’s too cold to use mane detangler, try to keep your horse’s mane combed frequently. You can make the job even easier by shortening his mane during the winter to limit the amount of mud and debris that it entangles.

5. Think about hooves

Locations that experience prolonged temperatures below freezing may develop hard, frozen ground. This can be very difficult on your horse.

◆ Talk to your farrier. If the frozen ground is uneven and painful for your horse to walk on, your farrier may recommend making temporary adjustments, such as shoeing a normally barefoot horse or adding borium for traction to steel shoes.

◆ Watch out for snowballs. When bringing your horse into the stable after turnout, be sure to remove any packed snow that has developed on his soles; this can be quite uncomfortable for him to walk on. This happens particularly with shod horses—look into having your farrier add snow pads if this is a frequent problem.

6. Be a weight watcher

Keep in mind that a thick winter coat can make it much more challenging to estimate your horse’s body condition.

◆ Use your hands to “see.” Use your regular grooming sessions to examine your horse’s body weight by using your hands to feel for areas around his hips or ribs that might not have enough body fat coverage.

Not only will an underweight horse suffer more in cold temperatures, but it can also be difficult to increase his weight when he’s using extra calories just to stay warm. It’s better to catch winter weight loss early.

Just because your horse is a little woolier this time of year doesn’t mean you should forego regular grooming sessions and health checks. A little bit of routine work can go a long way toward keeping him looking good. Before you know it, he’ll be shedding out that winter coat—and you’ll be covered in it instead!

Horse Grooming Tips for the Winter Rider If you ride during the winter, you have another set of challenges to deal with. Groom the right spots: Take extra care to remove any dried debris or mud from your horse’s saddle, girth and bridle areas. This will help your horse avoid any uncomfortable chaffing. Cool out properly: Because the insulating hairs of the winter coat prevent the heat from escaping effectively, expect to find sweat marks under your horse’s girth and saddle pad even when the thermometer dips below freezing. Be sure to put a cooler on your horse until he’s dry to prevent him from becoming chilled. Consider a body clip: If you ride heavily in any climate throughout the winter, your horse will sweat a lot and probably take too long to dry without hours of work. In this situation, a partial body clip (like a trace or blanket clip) is the way to go. Partial clips leave some natural coat for the cold weather and remove the areas that sweat most. Keep these tips in mind for body clipping: ◆ Make sure to use clippers that are specifically designed for body clipping, not small face and leg trimmers. ◆ Have one or two freshly sharpened or brand-new sets of blades ready to go. ◆ Start with a squeaky-clean horse: bathe with shampoo in a heated wash rack, or bucket bathe with heated water. To bucket bathe, scrub back and forth against hair grain with well wrung-out towels, switching out frequently for clean ones. Make sure your horse is completely dry before clipping, and have winter blankets ready for stabling and turnout. Check out this article for more detailed steps to a great body clip.

The post 6 Winter Grooming Tips appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

It’s finally getting cold outside and you’re bundled up, possibly with a hot cup of cocoa or coffee in hand. But how does your horse handle the chill of winter? Let’s take a look at some answers to commonly asked questions about cold weather horse care.

Also read – Senior Horse Care in Winter

1. How do horses cope with cold?

An adult horse’s “comfort zone” is lower than most people think. An acclimated healthy adult horse can remain reasonably comfortable in temperatures that dip into the 20s (Fahrenheit) and below, as long as the horse stays dry and can escape wind.

Certain physiological factors help: The most obvious is a horse’s ability to grow a thick winter coat. This natural coat works to preserve warmth by trapping warm air tightly against the horse’s body, creating a layer of insulation that is remarkably efficient at buffering cold external temperatures.

Another factor in fighting the chill is the horse’s unique digestive system. The microbial fermentation of fibrous feeds taking place in a horse’s colon creates enough internal heat that your horse’s gut acts as a type of furnace to keep him warm.

2. Do blankets flatten hair and make a horse colder?

Although a horse’s natural winter coat is meant to trap warm air against his skin, placing a blanket on top of this hair does not negate the warmth. Instead, a blanket acts as an added physical layer of insulation.

While blankets do indeed physically flatten a horse’s hair, their layers take the place of the horse’s natural coat. Air trapped between a horse and the layers of blanket now act as insulation.

If you want to feel for yourself how this insulation works, pay a visit to your horse in the pasture one winter day and place your bare hand between his shoulder and the blanket to get a sense of the heat trapped in there.

There are, however, other aspects to consider when choosing to blanket your horse. Blankets are necessary for horses that are thin, sick, or older; these animals typically struggle to maintain a core body temperature in the face of harsh environmental elements. Horses that have been clipped in the winter will need some level of blanketing, as well. All other adult horses may or may not need a blanket; the blanketing debate rages on, because it depends heavily on the individual horse and his immediate external environment.

If you’re questioning whether to blanket your horse in the winter, consider his physical characteristics (e.g., body condition score, overall health status, acclimation to his environment, age, and clipping status), the winter weather you’re expecting, and whether the horse will have access to shelter in the field for protection against wind and precipitation.

3. Is it dangerous to ride a horse in cold weather?

Just as you wouldn’t run a 5K in winter dressed as if it were July, winter riding requires specific preparations, but that doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t enjoy hacking through the snow. One of the trickiest aspects of winter riding is preventing post-ride chills in a sweaty horse.

If you know you’ll be riding regularly throughout the winter, consider clipping your horse. With several partial clips to choose from, you can tailor your horse’s “nakedness” to your anticipated level of exertion.

The benefits of clipping are two-fold: A clipped horse doesn’t sweat as much, plus he will dry much faster after a workout than a horse with a full winter coat. However, with the convenience of clipping comes the responsibility of blanketing. Removing a horse’s natural cold-weather barrier means he will need a blanket to help keep the chill away.

To shoe or not and how are other considerations for winter riding. Regular horseshoes have poor traction on ice and snow. For this reason, some people elect to pull their horses’ shoes in the winter.

However, if you think you might ride a reasonable amount in snow or icy conditions, consider talking to your farrier about studs for traction or snow pads to prevent the buildup of ice balls under your horse’s shoes. Walking on uneven packed ice also tends to bruise a horse’s soles, which is another reason some riders elect to use snow pads.

4. Can a horse get enough water by eating ice and snow?

Most domestic horses, unless already acclimated to a severe winter environment where water is scarce, have lost their natural ability (or inclination) to consume adequate amounts of ice or snow in amounts large enough to satisfy their daily water requirements. Leaving a horse to consume only ice or snow places him in a constant state of dehydration, thereby putting him at risk of impaction colic.

Frozen water alone isn’t the only problem in winter. Horses can be picky drinkers, and many will turn their noses up at water that is deemed too cold. Studies have shown horses prefer water between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit to drink. Heated water buckets and troughs are the easiest solution for winter water woes.

Decreased water intake not only increases a horse’s chance of impaction colic, but also impacts his feed intake—when a horse drinks less, he also eats less. This then further affects his ability to keep warm.

While bran mashes and other methods of adding a bit of liquid to a horse’s meal may seem like a good alternative to increase your horse’s water intake in the winter, these methods typically don’t provide enough moisture. A horse’s average water intake can vary widely due to many factors, but on average, an adult horse will drink between 5 and 10 gallons of water a day. When grazing, a lot of this water is consumed within grass.

In winter, however, hay does nothing to help with water intake, which is why it is vital to make sure your horse has continual access to clean, non-frozen (and preferably warmed) water in cold weather.

5. How should I change my horse’s diet in the winter?

Although grain has more caloric density per pound than hay, it’s actually roughage that helps keep your horse warm in the winter. Therefore, when temperatures plunge below freezing for extended periods, increase your horse’s hay ration.

Because blankets and thick winter coats easily hide a horse’s body condition, it’s important to regularly monitor his body weight, either through evaluating his Henneke body condition score (BCS) or by using a weight tape. Although tapes are notoriously inaccurate, they do catch significant changes up or down.

These objective measurements will tell you if he’s taking in too few (or too many) calories. Evaluating body weight monthly through the winter should give you a good idea about the adequacy of your horse’s diet.

Most horses do not require any further alterations to their diet during the winter. Mineral and vitamin needs stay the same as in the summer, although if your horse is a voracious salt consumer, he may appreciate some loose salt instead of a frozen salt block to lick.

This article about cold weather horse care appeared in the November/December 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Winter Horse Care FAQs appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Winter horse keeping can be a real pain in the neck, no matter where you live and what challenges come with your climate. Whether your winter weather is cold, snowy, rainy, icy, or even balmy, here are tips and hacks from fellow horse people to make your horse care and riding more enjoyable and get your horse through winter.

Snow Belt

Jenny Alsberg is a hunter/jumper trainer who also runs a boutique boarding operation geared mainly toward retired show horses. Her 40-acre facility, Gold Crest Sport Horses in Kiowa, Colo., is in an area known for big snow storms and long, cold winter.

Lower-Maintenance Blanketing

When healthy horses are allowed to grow a good winter coat, they’re often comfortable, even in freezing temperatures.

“As a hunter/jumper trainer, I was an avid blanketer and used to run around changing horse clothes all day long,” she says. “One winter when I was pregnant, I didn’t blanket and was shocked at how well the horses did when allowed to regulate their own body temperatures.”

There are times, though, when blanketing is a good idea: for senior horses, for those that tend to lose weight or are new to a cold environment, and for extreme weather. If you blanket, be sure to use a waterproof turnout, as these are designed for rugged, outdoor use.

Feed More Hay

Feeding additional grass hay (not alfalfa) has multiple benefits. It keeps horses warm, helps them maintain weight and facilitates a healthy digestive system.

“I feed more hay than my horses need when it’s bitter cold,” says Alsberg. “When I see a tiny bit of hay left over at the next feeding, I know my horses had access all day or all night, and it helped them stay warm.”

Maintain Access to Fresh Water

Providing unfrozen water in freezing weather is essential to a horse’s health—and a big challenge. Without enough water, horses are prone to colic and other health risk.

“Most of my water tanks don’t have heaters,” says Alsberg. She hasn’t installed automatic waterers because she prefers to be able to monitor how much her horses are drinking.

“Each morning and evening, I break a basketball-sized hole in the ice in each tank,” she says. “I’ve found that the horses have access to water longer than if I break up all the ice and it refreezes. Plus, I haven’t seen that the horses drink more or less depending on the temperature of the water.”

She also adds a dash of salt to her horses’ grain rations to encourage them to drink adequate amounts of water.

Provide Room to Move and Shelter

Horses are meant to walk around all day, and frequent movement helps them generate body heat and also helps with digestion. If possible, let your horse live outside in a run, paddock or pasture with access to shelter from the wind.

“More than the cold, it’s the wind that’s the worst element for horses in the winter,” says Alsberg. “This is especially true if it’s wet and windy. If horses have a place to get out of the wind, their coat can dry and insulate them better.”

Get Yourself a Headlamp

Winter days are long and dark, and many horse chores happen before sunrise and after sunset.

“I can’t live without my headlamp,” says Alsberg. “It’s a great way to keep my hands free while I’m doing any sort of outdoor horse care.

Rainy Season

Michelle Hinds grew up with rainy, snowy, icy winters, and she later worked at dressage and eventing barns where the horses were mostly kept outdoors in pastures and paddocks in parts of the country with heavy rain all winter. If you live in the Southeast or Southwestern U.S., winter weather is basically the rainy season.

“As the British say, ‘If you don’t ride in the rain, then you don’t ride!’” she says, summing up how it feels to have horses in rainy areas like New England. “You learn to grin and bear it—and do things anyway.”

Gear Up

In wet weather especially, choosing the right gear is essential.

“A great waterproof riding raincoat makes all the difference,” Hinds says.

Also important are good gloves that maintain grip and stay warm when wet. Waterproof riding pants and quarter sheets help keep horse and rider warmer when riding outside.”

“Tall muck boots are essential for a few reasons,” she adds. “They keep your feet dry, can double as riding boots when it’s raining, and they won’t get sucked off in deep mud like paddock boots will.”

Hoof Traction

When wet footing and trails freeze, they become treacherous.

“One way to ride during the winter is to work with your farrier to apply studs or other traction devices if your horse is shod,” says Hinds.

Unshod horses can wear boots designed to provide traction.

Horses are meant to walk around all day, and frequent movement helps them generate body heat and also helps with digestion. If possible, let your horse live outside in a run, paddock or pasture with access to shelter from the wind.

Get Ready for Mud

Horses that live outdoors in rainy areas will be living in mud; it’s inevitable. Even if humans create a dry area and shelter for horses to use, often they’ll choose to be out in the rain and mud anyway.

Having rain gutters that divert water away from the barn will help, as will building the barn on land with a slight slope or at a high point rather than in a low spot.

“But no matter how much sand we bring into a paddock, with enough water, it will become deep muck,” says Hinds.

Instead of trying to fight it, do the best you can. For example, clean out hooves every day and apply thrush products when necessary. Groom regularly to help prevent rain rot and other skin conditions.

“Some horses will be happier living inside, while others will want to be turned out no matter what the weather,” she says. “When we can allow our horses choices, they’ll generally be happier and healthier.”

By implementing a few hacks and tips, you and your horse can survive—and even thrive—no matter what winter throws your way.

This article on how to get your horse through winter originally appeared in the December 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

Further Reading

• Tack and Gear: Winter Barn Gear
• Winter Wellness for Horses
• Winter Feeding Made Easy
• 10 Winter Health Care Mistakes to Avoid

The post Winter Survival Guide: How to Get Your Horse Through Winter appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Fall days—a chill in the air, geese flying south, pumpkins…and fuzzy horses. Autumn is a time when many horses are putting on their winter coats in earnest, but what causes it? Is it the change in temperature? Is it the shorter days?

Here’s a comment that you might hear around horsepeople: “Look, Roscoe is putting his coat on early—it must mean the winter is going to be extra cold!” There are a couple of reasons that this statement isn’t actually correct.

First of all, your horse’s winter coat growth response is not really caused by cold temperatures—if it were, horses wouldn’t begin to grow coats until cold weather actually hit, and then it would be too late. Instead, as horse owners know, horses actually begin to grow their winter coats as early as September, or even August in northern climates.

The real trigger for winter coat growth is diminishing light. As the fall days get shorter, the reduction of light causes the horse’s body to begin increasing the production of the hormone melatonin, which in turn prompts additional coat growth. In the spring, when daylight increases again, melatonin production drops, and the coat sheds out.

But wait—isn’t it true that horses in southern regions generally put on less of a coat than horses in a northern environment? This would tend to make it seem that temperature is playing a part, but again, it’s more about light. Southern regions (closer to the equator) are more regular in their seasonal length-of-day, and experience less of a “swing” in daylight/nighttime hours than northern regions, and thus the horses produce smaller amounts of melatonin.

Horses in the north with shorter days produce more melatonin. The result of this is that most horses naturally grow a coat that is suitable for their climate.

That said, all horses are different, and some just tend to put on heavier coats than others. And of course, winter coat thickness can vary greatly from breed to breed. One way that some horse owners try to control coat growth is to adjust artificial lighting in the barn. It’s fairly common for people to leave the stable lights on more in the spring to try to get their show horses to shed out more quickly. In theory you could also leave the barn lights off in the fall to try to get your horse to put on a coat as fast as possible.

When cold weather does strike, you’ll probably notice your horse’s coat “standing up,” and making him look fuzzier, softer, and “woolier” than normal. This is because the individual hairs in your horse’s winter coat actually spring up in cold weather, creating air pockets that provide extra insulation and therefore keep your horse’s natural body heat from escaping. This is the same way that putting on a winter jacket works for you—the jacket itself doesn’t actually provide any heat, it simply keeps your own body heat contained.

Don’t make the mistake of blanketing your horse when he really doesn’t need to be. It’s not uncommon for a well-meaning horse owner to “want to make him more comfortable” and provide a blanket. The problem that can occur is that a blanket may press down those coat hairs that were standing up, and, without this natural insulation, blanketing may actually make the horse colder. Of course there are situations when blanketing is warranted, such as clipped horses, horses that were just exercised, senior horses, or horses that don’t put on an adequate coat for the environment, etc… Blanketing should be considered on a case-by-case basis.

Has your horse started putting on his “winter woolies?”

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