1. AFFIRMED: Although small at birth, Affirmed soon proved he was a great racehorse, growing into a handsome chestnut-coated force that won Thoroughbred racing’s 1978 Triple Crown. What made him even more awesome was his heart. He bested his undeniably more royally bred rival, Alydar, in each of the three classic races.

2. AHLERICH: Already a revered dressage master, Reiner Klimke found his equine soulmate at a Westphalian auction in Germany. The hot-blooded Ahlerich and Klimke soon soared to great heights in international dressage competition, including claiming the 1982 World Championship title. In both 1984 Los Angeles and 1988 Seoul Olympics, Klimke rode his stunning bay partner to individual and team gold medals for Germany.

Ahlerich and Reiner Klimke in 1980. Photo by Bob Langrish

3. BALLY COR: Legendary three-day eventing rider Tad Coffin recalls that the lanky bay Thoroughbred mare Bally Cor “was not thought to be supremely talented.” On top of that, Coffin was a young rider whose résumé lacked international experience. But under the tutelage of U.S. Equestrian Team eventing coach Jack Le Goff, both Coffin and Bally Cor earned worldwide respect. At the 1976 Olympic Games in Montreal, the determined pair won team and individual gold medals.

4. BALOUBET DU ROUET: Bred from proven sporthorse lines, this tough Selle Français stallion was not the sort of horse everyone could ride. But Brazilian Rodrigo Pessoa’s quiet touch got the best out of the firey chestnut. For three consecutive years (1998-2000), the dauntless duo won the World Cup Finals in show jumping. But the big red horse’s incredible career also includes an Olympic team bronze medal (2000) and individual gold in Athens (2004).

5. BIG BEN: reportedly too big and ugly to make it as a show hunter, the rangy red horse from Canada eventually earned more than $1.5 million as an international show jumper. His regular pilot, owner Ian Millar, learned to put up with the horse’s quirks: he was notoriously spooky, headstrong, and accident-prone. Nonetheless, Big Ben and Millar won the World Cup Finals in 1988 and 1989 and represented Canada in three Olympic Games over a career that spanned 11 years.

Big Ben and Ian Millar formed a legendary partnership. Photo by Bob Langrish

6. BRENTINA: The lovely Hanoverian mare Brentina is one of the few dressage horses to capture the hearts of American riders from all disciplines. She was purchased as a 3-year-old in Germany after displaying fabulous gaits and an unflappable temperament. The mare and rider Debbie McDonald’s major wins include the Grand Prix and Grand Prix Special at the 2003 World Cup and a team bronze at the 2004 Athens Olympics. In 2005, Brentina was chosen as the U.S. Equestrian Federation’s Horse of the Year.

Brentina and Debbie McDonald at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Photo by Bob Langrish

7. CHARISMA: Small, muddy, hairy, and scraggly were the words that 6’2″ New Zealander Mark Todd supposedly used to describe the 15.2-hand Thoroughbred cross (1/16th Percheron) the first time he saw him. Yet the gelding’s expressive dressage performances and courageous jumping efforts made him an unbeatable force in three-day eventing. Charisma and Mark Todd won back-to-back individual gold medals at the 1984 Los Angeles and 1988 Seoul Olympic Games.

Charisma and Mark Todd at the 1988 Seoul Olympics. Photo by Bob Langrish

8. CUSTOM MADE: Dressage scores often determine the placings in three-day eventing, and at the 2000 Sydney Olympics, this 17.2-hand Irish Thoroughbred had a near-flawless test, giving Custom Made and American David O’Connor the score needed to win the individual gold medal—albeit after a memorable panic for spectators when O’Connor appeared to momentarily forget the course during the show jumping phase. (As of this update in 2026, it was the last Olympic eventing gold medal, either team or individual, won by the USA.)

Custom Made and David O’Connor at the 2000 Sydney Olympics. Photo by Bob Langrish

9. FRENCH FLASH HAWK: Considered skittish and spooky as a baby, the flashy bay American Quarter Horse nicknamed “Bozo” was sold to Kristie Peterson for a mere $400. That turned out to be a bargain, as Bozo and Peterson earned more than $1 million in professional barrel racing, including three National Finals Rodeo championships. Ultimately Bozo had the last laugh, winning the 1995 American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) award for Rodeo Horse of the Year.

10. GEM TWIST: An elegant gray Thoroughbred, Gem Twist was bred and trained by Olympian Frank Chapot. After demonstrating jumping talent at an early age, Gem Twist was paired with rider Greg Best. The two won individual and team silver medals in show jumping at the 1984 Olympics. Even more noteworthy, the stylish jumper is still the only horse to win a trio of American Grand Prix Association Championships (1987, 1993, and 1995), and he did it with three different riders in the saddle.

Gem Twist and Greg Best at the Stockholm WEG in 1990. Photo by Bob Langrish

11. GIFTED: Undeniably, Gifted was a handful to train as a young dressage horse. Once the flashy bay started his own dressage career with rider Carol Lavell, he proved he truly was gifted. He was named U.S. Dressage Federation Horse of the Year at five different levels (1985-1991). On the world’s biggest stage, the Olympic Games, Gifted and Lavell helped the U.S. Dressage Team win a bronze medal in Barcelona (1992).

Gifted and Carol Lavell at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. Photo by Bob Langrish

12. GILTEDGE: Seventeen-hand Irish Sport Horse Giltedge and rider David O’Connor amassed an impressive list of accomplishments. There was team silver at the 1996 Atlanta Olympics and team bronze at the 2000 Sydney Olympics, and a win at the 2001 Rolex Kentucky CCI****. Plus the courageous clear round—one of only two—in the show jumping phase of the 2002 World Equestrian Games in Jerez to secure the U.S. team gold.

Giltedge and David O’Connor at the 2000 Sydney Olympics. Photo by Bob Langrish

13. HOLLYWOOD DUN IT: The tawny stallion possessed near-perfect American Quarter Horse conformation, a large expressive eye, and a gentle disposition. Moreover, Hollywood Dun It, who descended from proven working cow horse royalty, demonstrated athleticism and trainability under saddle. When he died in 2005, he left behind a legacy as the all-time leading sire of reining horses, with offspring earning more than $4 million in winnings.

14. KEEN: When asked to recall her partner for the Olympic bronze medal dressage win at the 1976 Games in Montreal, Hilda Gurney remarked, “Keen wasn’t an expensive horse. He was an off-the-track Thoroughbred, trained at home.” While expensive warmbloods now completely dominate the dressage ranks, Keen will always have a spot in the hearts of dressage enthusiasts. The flashy, firey chestnut, tall as a redwood, was America’s first four-legged ambassador for the sport.

15. KHEMOSABI: This legendary Arabian show horse and sire almost wasn’t registered. According to his breeder and owner, Ruth Husband, when she observed the newborn colt’s abundant white markings, “I wasn’t thrilled.” Fortunately, her husband was more diplomatic and horse-savvy, and Khemosabi went on to not only be registered, but to become a Legion of Excellence Champion and Legion of Masters Champion. He also sired over 1,300 foals, making him the most popular Arabian stallion of all time.

16. MILTON: This huge, milky white gelding had his own fan club in Great Britain. He was beloved for his show jumping prowess and his celebratory leaps into the air after a glorious round. Although he never made it to Olympic competition, Milton—whose name bore the prefixes Henderson, Everest, and Next, depending on his sponsor—won two World Cup show jumping championships (1990, 1991) and numerous grand prix events with his rider, John Whitaker.

Milton and John Whitaker take a walk with this article’s photographer, Bob Langrish. Photo by Bob Langrish

17. MURPHY HIMSELF: When petite European three-day eventing champion Ginny Leng purchased this gray Irish Sport Horse, she ended up with more horse than she wanted. Although she won England’s famed Burghley Horse Trials on the powerful gelding, she struggled to control him. Fellow eventer Ian Stark took over the ride, which turned out to be a better match, as Stark and Murphy won individual and team silver medals for Great Britain at the 1990 World Equestrian Games.

Murphy Himself and Ian Stark at the Stockholm WEG in 1990. Photo by Bob Langrish

18. PIEARAZ: Called “Cash” because he cost the whopping sum of $500, the little gray Arabian went on to prove he was worth his weight in gold by winning successive World Championships in endurance. He did this with owner/rider Valerie Kanavy in 1994, then again in 1996 with Valerie’s daughter, Danielle. Although a gelding, Pieraz has reproduced: he was the second horse in the world to be successfully cloned.

19. R.O. GRAND SULTAN: Another American superstar in the sport of endurance, “Rio” won three consecutive world championships (1988, 1990, 1992) with his rider Becky Hart. By using Centered Riding techniques and natural horsemanship methods, Hart developed a bond with the independent-minded Arabian.

R.O. Grand Sultan and Becky Hart at the Stockholm WEG in 1990. Photo by Bob Langrish

20. REMBRANDT: Rembrandt was purchased as a green 3-year-old for Germany’s Nicole Uphoff to ride. At just 21, Uphoff zoomed to dressage stardom aboard the bay Westphalian, winning back-to-back Olympic gold medals in 1988 (Seoul) and 1992 (Barcelona), plus two world dressage championships. Although she was offered outrageous sums of money to sell the horse, she could never part with him, and he spent his retirement years on her family’s farm.

Rembrandt and Nicole Uphoff at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. Photo by Bob Langrish

21: ROX DENE: One name that still elicits respect in the hunter world is Rox Dene, a gray Dutch Warmblood/Thoroughbred mare who ruled the 1990s with a string of championships in both working and conformation hunter divisions. That earned her the title of Hunter Horse of the Century. Co-owner Chanda Boylen said, “Rox Dene had the entire package: the conformation, the movement and the jump. I think that’s what set her apart.”

22. ROYAL KALIBER: Imported from the Netherlands, the Dutch Warmblood stallion Royal Kaliber was described as having the personality of a teddy bear. After a string of major wins in American grand prix events, “Roy” and Chris Kapler won team silver and individual bronze medals at the 2004 Athens Olympics. Unfortunately, the 12-year-old horse was injured there, suffered a severe bout of colic, and was humanely euthanized before he could return home.

23. RUGGED LARK: The winner of the AQHA Superhorse title in 1985 and 1987, this handsome bay stallion demonstrated his versatility in a variety of performance events, most notably dressage. He also proved he was potent, siring both the 1991 and 1999 Superhorse winners. But Rugged Lark was also known for the tour he and his trainer, Lynn Palm, took around the country, performing bridleless at major events. The sweet-tempered American Quarter Horse embodied the larger-than-life qualities cherished in an all-around riding horse.

Rugged Lark was an outstanding performer and sire, known in his later years for bridleless demonstrations with Lynn Palm. Photo by Bob Langrish

24. SCAMPER: This little bay American Quarter Horse came to owner Charmayne James after being booted from work at a cattle feedlot, where he had a reputation as a rank rogue. But when James was just 14, she was able to begin training Scamper into the world’s most successful barrel racer. Together they won an unequaled 10 straight barrel racing world championships, and Scamper became the first barrel horse ever inducted into the Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame.

25. SEATTLE SLEW: One of the greatest bargains in horse racing history, Seattle Slew was purchased as a yearling for a mere $17,500. His right front leg turned out, accounting for the relatively low price tag. He traveled so awkwardly down the track as a youngster that his trainer nicknamed him Baby Huey after a clumsy cartoon character. Yet he grew into one of Thoroughbred racing’s most unforgettable champions, winning the 1977 Triple Crown.

26. SMART LITTLE LENA: No bigger than a German Shepherd when foaled, Smart Little Lena grew to be one of the world’s greatest cutting horses. The Texas-bred cow horse won over $740,000 in just eight cutting contests, including the famed “triple crown” of cutting: the National Cutting horse Association Futurity, the Derby, and the Sweepstakes. He has also established a dynasty in the realm of cutting and working cowhorses, siring 17 AQHA World Champions and countless “cowy” sons and daughters.

27. SUPREME SULTAN: The American Saddlebred stallion Supreme Sultan won numerous championships, but even more impressively became the only American Saddlebred to sire World Grand Champions in every show division that the breed association offers.

28. TOUCH OF CLASS: She was small but mighty. After a brief flirtation with a racing career, Touch of Class carried the hopes of the United States into the 1984 Olympics before a home crowd in Los Angeles. There, the fancy bay Thoroughbred and Joe Fargis made the tough show jumping course look like a hunter round. The mare earned the United States a team gold medal and then survived a grueling two-round jump-off to also capture individual gold.

Touch of Class, a diminutive Thoroughbred mare, dominated the show jumping world with Joe Fargis. Photo by Bob Langrish

29. WINSOME ADANTE: As a young horse in Great Britain, “Dan” jumped out of his paddock for a bucket of treats. Sold to America for Kim Severson to ride, the Thoroughbred/Arabian/Irish cross went on to become one of the most successful three-day eventing horses in history, winning team bronze and individual silver at the 2004 Athens Olympics and, perhaps more notably, the Rolex Kentucky CCI**** three times (2002, 2004, 2005).

Winsome Adante and Kim Severson at the Aachen WEG in 2006. Photo by Bob Langrish

30. ZIPPO PINE BAR: Rancher Norman Reynolds was looking for a working cow horse, so he bought Zippo as a weanling for just $1,000 in 1970. But when the colt won in the show pen, Reynolds realized he had more than a cow pony. Zippo Pine Bar spent more than a decade as the AQHA Leading Sire of Performance Horses, and his foals won more than $2 million in western pleasure prize money. His bloodlines continue to be an influence in Quarter Horses, Paints and Appaloosas.

As you can see, great horses come from all sorts of beginnings. Maybe you have a future unforgettable horse standing in your stall right now!

This article was originally published as part of Horse Illustrated’s 30th anniversary in 2006, and was reprinted in our 50th anniversary special issue. Click here to order!

The post The Most Unforgettable Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

With his looks and breeding, Wally should’ve been a champion something-or-other, but he hated being a show horse. When I plucked him from an auction, he was a ring-sour beast. Since I’d recently retired from showing hunters, I didn’t care. I just wanted a flashy trail mount. Wally’s distaste for group activities was fine by me.

Cindy Hale and the western dressage horse Wally. Photo courtesy Cindy Hale

A Door Opens for Western Dressage

Yet after several months of trail riding, I felt lured back to arena work. I devised ways to cajole Wally into compliance. Most involved peppermints. To keep him interested, we worked on lateral movements and transitions, and I taught him flying lead changes. His resentment abated and soon he’d amassed a notable skill set.

A few years down the road, my husband and I moved from Southern California to the high country of Arizona with Wally in tow. The trail riding was spectacular, but about once a week I schooled Wally in the community arena. One day I was joined by a local dressage rider aboard her Andalusian. She watched Wally and me practice shoulder-ins and leg-yields.

Finally, she said, “You really should do western dressage on that horse.”

“Is that a thing up here?” I asked. Most competitions in this part of Arizona seemed concerned with barrel racing or roping cows.

She explained that, yes, there was a local dressage club that sponsored clinics and shows. “They always have western dressage classes.”

I felt a spark of adrenaline when she uttered those words. Did I still harbor some yearning to compete? Could Wally actually hold it together for an entire dressage test?

Learning the Ins and Outs

I immediately went home and researched everything I could about western dressage, from tack requirements to the various levels and tests. I watched countless online videos of high-scoring rides. As a final sign of commitment, I joined the dressage club and set my sights on their upcoming shows.

Unfortunately, in my zeal for this newfound pursuit, I’d forgotten that I’d never ridden an actual dressage test. While hunter courses had a natural flow from one obstacle to another, dressage relied on letters set around the arena to mark where each movement was to happen.

Quite frankly, the placement of those letters made no sense to me. They weren’t in alphabetical order, and I couldn’t figure out why several letters (like I and P) were invisible. So as the shows approached, I resorted to tactics my husband found confusing.

I went into our kitchen armed with a stack of sticky notes bearing the letters and stuck them onto the tiled floor. Then I “rode” my test. About the time I was cantering a 10-meter circle next to the dishwasher, he called to me from the living room.

“What the heck are you doing?”

“I’m practicing western dressage.”

Photo courtesy Cindy Hale

Long since indoctrinated to the silliness that’s associated with horse-crazy women, my husband shook his head and went back to watching TV.

Scraps of paper, book margins and a whiteboard we used for leaving notes to each other were soon besmirched with my dressage test doodles. I drew rectangles, added those confounded letters and then traced the loops, lines and circles of my tests.

Once I had them memorized, I practiced aboard Wally in my neighbor’s makeshift dressage arena. Occasionally I’d go off course, curse, and then ride back to X and start again.

The Ultimate Reward

By the time the show series rolled around, I was confident I knew my tests by heart. I was less confident predicting Wally’s behavior. I was worried he’d succumb to horse show PTSD and become completely unhinged amid the hoopla.

Thankfully, that never happened. Wally trotted up the centerline in both of his tests with an air of relaxed bravado. He was alert, responsive, and—dare I say it—happy to perform.

Our scores from that show, and the ones later that summer, were consistently in the 70s (dressage is scored as a percentage, with most winning tests in the 60s and 70s). By season’s end, we had an armful of blue ribbons, one tri-color championship, and a western dressage high-point award.

The ultimate reward, however, was reading the comments from the judges.

“You and your horse obviously have a special relationship,” one wrote. “The two of you are a joy to watch.”

Those were words I’d never seen on a hunter scorecard. I knew I would treasure them—and Wally, my western dressage horse—forever.

To learn more about western dressage, visit the Western Dressage Association of America’s website.

The post Wally the Western Dressage Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A turn on the haunches will prepare your horse for rollbacks by committing to sudden changes of direction. Photo by Leslie Potter.

Immediately after your horse lands from a jump, you must make a tight turn, rolling back in the opposite direction to take yet another jump. So much can go wrong, from a haphazard misstep to a dropped rail or a refusal. Yet rollback turns are fairly simple to accomplish with the right amount of preparation.

Master Three Rollback Basics

To help ensure that you and your horse are truly ready for rollback turns, make sure you can accomplish these three basic tasks.

1) GET COMFORTABLE USING AN OPENING REIN. To use an opening rein, maintain equal contact with each rein; be sure both hands are held on the same plane, above the withers. Next, “open” one hand out to the side, away from your horse’s shoulder. Your horse’s nose should tip slightly in the new direction.

An opening rein allows you to guide your horse into a turn without unbalancing his entire body. This is in contrast to the standard direct rein, which essentially pulls your horse around the turn.

Photo by Leslie Potter.

If a direct rein is used for a rollback turn, your horse could end up bulging through his outside shoulder until he’s over-bent in the shape of a “C.” This leaves him on a crooked track to the jump. An opening rein can eliminate this problem.

2) YOUR HORSE MUST BE ADEPT AT TURNS ON THE HAUNCHES. In response to your aids, your horse will be slightly bent in the direction of his turn, and then move his front end around his stationary hindquarters.

This prepares your horse for rollbacks, because he learns to commit to a sudden, precise change in direction. Plus, he’s prepared for the upcoming jump, because his weight remains balanced over his hindquarters. Ultimately, you should have the sensation that you are opening a door into the new direction and then pushing your horse through it with plenty of outside leg.

3) YOUR HORSE MUST BE ADJUSTABLE AT THE CANTER. While an enthusiastic partner is appreciated, your horse should never drag you to the jump. It’s tough to make a decent rollback turn if your horse is pulling through the bit. He needs to keep his weight off his forehand in order to turn tightly.

Practice half-halts and incorporate 10- and 20-meter circles into your canter flatwork so your horse learns to downshift and collect when asked. When you’re ready, you can graduate to some fun exercises.

Rail Rollbacks

You can get a feel for rollback turns without actually jumping. For this exercise, start on your right lead. Set a ground pole perpendicular to the arena rail, about six strides up from the short end of the arena.

Canter down the quarter line, half-halting before you reach the end of the arena. Open your inside rein and push with your outside leg as you roll back. Photo by Leslie Potter.

Canter on the right lead down the quarter line of the arena. Once you’re aligned side-by-side with the ground pole, look to your right to find a track that you can ride to the center of the pole. As you approach the end of the arena, ask your horse to half-halt and collect his canter. Then use a right opening rein to introduce the new direction and push your horse around the turn with your outside left lower leg.

The arena rail will encourage your horse to turn. It also serves as a visual reminder to maintain a straight track over the pole. Keep a steady canter rhythm; resist the urge to chase your horse down to the pole.

After you’ve done this several times, move the pole to the opposite end of the arena and repeat in the opposite direction (on the left lead). Eventually, you can replace the ground pole with a simple low jump.

Look, Turn, Circle

This exercise will help you develop an eye for piloting your horse through rollback turns. Set a cone or other marker in the center of the circular track you’re about to create. Then lay two 10- or 12-foot ground poles on opposite sides of the cone. Leave a good 3 feet of space between the cone and the end of each ground pole, or your circle will be too small. If you’re feeling particularly confident, substitute low cavalletti for the ground poles.

Set up two poles on a circle and focus on riding directly over the center of each one, guiding your horse with an opening rein and outside leg. Photo by Leslie Potter.

Start at the posting trot. Guide your horse over the poles in a circle using an inside opening rein and outside leg. The goal is to stay on a circular track that consistently takes you over the center of each pole. The only way to be successful is to keep your eye on the middle of each upcoming pole.

Vary the exercise by holding a two-point throughout the circle. Eventually you can canter over the poles, but beware: if you resort to pulling your horse around the circle, he’ll lose his canter rhythm, bulge out and bypass the poles. Instead, practice using an inside opening rein to guide your horse and outside leg pressure to keep him on the correct track.

Soon, you’ll be ready to roll to a win.

This article about rollback turns for equitation and jumper riders appeared in the September 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Rollback Turns appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Most barns come with gossip and social drama. Do your part to stay out it and you’ll be a happier boarder. Photo by Akov Filimonov/Shutterstock

Are you boarding a horse and need to make a graceful exit? We envision the barn as our sanctuary from the outside world, but most of us lack the wherewithal to acquire horse-keeping property. Our only option is to entrust veritable strangers with our beloved equines. Fortunately, there are plenty of barns that provide wonderful care. The bad news? It’s not hard to discover stories involving boarding barn drama and trauma.

Solicit anecdotes from your horse-loving friends or scan online equestrian forums and you’ll uncover all sorts of nightmarish tales, from avoiding chronically inebriated barn owners to dealing with cliques of grown women who behave like denim-clad characters from “Mean Girls.”

When it comes to boarding a horse, unsettling horse care scenarios include wildly erratic feeding schedules, medications administered without veterinary oversight and billing statements padded with unauthorized services. While it’s probably true that there are no perfect boarding barns, these are some of the instances when it’s probably best to pack your tack and ride off into a different sunset

Be a Better Boarder

While it’s true that there are no perfect boarding barns, there are some instances when it’s probably best to pack your tack and go. Photo by AnnaElizabeth Photography/Shutterstock

Keep in mind that whenever you are boarding a horse, the standard of care probably won’t match what you’d provide if your horse was living on your property. All of those meticulous little details that help define your bond with your horse are usually beyond the scope of what the average boarding barn provides. Take pride in the stewardship of your horse, and embrace the role of primary caregiver. And if you see an opportunity to lend a helping hand around the barn, do so, and add a smile. The staff will appreciate it.

To reconcile the inevitable social drama, take heart in knowing that you alone cannot change a toxic barn environment. Yet you can shape your own experience. For example, although tack room gossip is a mainstay of the boarding barn lifestyle, extricate yourself from a conversation the moment it becomes salacious or meanspirited. Find a reason to excuse yourself and go groom your horse instead. How can that not make you happier?

Look for the Positive If you’re searching for a different boarding barn, you’ll need some criteria. Beyond obvious deal breakers, like facilities that scrimp on feed or are rundown and in disrepair, here are five characteristics of barns that promote an enjoyable experience. 1. A written contract that clearly stipulates the feed and care that will be provided, along with the cost and protocol for any additional services. Such openness minimizes the chances for misunderstandings. 2. Barn rules should be posted in prominent areas and enforced by management. This builds a sense of community where everyone is treated civilly and no one is allowed to preferentially break rules. Take pride in the stewardship of your horse. Photo by AnnaElizabeth Photography/Shutterstock 3. The roles of staff and management are clearly defined. This alleviates contradictory instructions from multiple sources. Moreover, there’s a definite chain of command where one person—typically the barn manager—has the final say-so on important decisions regarding your horse’s care. 4. Vets, good farriers and reputable clinicians make regular visits, which is usually a sign that barn staff and other boarders consult with professionals for their expertise. 5. A pro-horse philosophy permeates the barn’s culture. Regardless of personal differences or petty disagreements, it’s evident that everyone believes that each horse deserves proper care, a loving owner and humane treatment.

This article about boarding a horse appeared in the May 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe

The post Boarding A Horse – How to Make a Graceful Exit appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Skuker/Shutterstock

QUESTION: I’m taking jumping lessons on my horse. We were doing really well until recently. Now when we canter toward the bigger jumps, my horse suddenly gets very fast and pulls hard on the bit. It’s scaring me, but I don’t want to tell my trainer. What can I do to fix this problem of my horse rushing the jumps?

ANSWER: Never be afraid to tell your trainer that you’re uncomfortable or scared. When you’re honest, your trainer can design riding exercises to help you overcome your fears. First, however, your horse’s behavior must be changed.

ogoA horse that charges to the jump and pulls on the reins against your hands is said to be “rushing the jumps.” That is an undesirable habit because you lack control. Without warning, the rusher could put on the brakes and refuse the jump, run out to the side, or leave from a dangerously long take-off spot.

Most horses rush due to anxiety. Sometimes the jump is too high for their level of training. Other times, it’s because they really haven’t learned how to canter over a jump. It’s like they aren’t really sure where to place their legs, so they just scramble over the jump in a panic.

Back to Basics

To retrain a rusher, go back to trotting low, easy jumps in your lessons. Make jumping as relaxing as possible, even ho-hum and boring. Never allow your horse to increase his pace or surge forward.

The moment you feel your horse rev up, pull him to a stop. It’s better for him to halt and pause for a few moments than to rush carelessly over the jump. Occasional unexpected halts will also keep your horse focused on you rather than zeroing in on the jump.

While your horse is being reschooled, have your trainer evaluate your riding. Without realizing it, you may be teaching your horse to rush. As you approach a jump, you could be grabbing with your heels or driving your horse forward with too deep of a seat.

It’s important to keep a soft, steady position all the way to the jump. Take your time so that you and your horse can enjoy the process of learning to jump safely!

Send Young Rider your horsey health and training questions, and they could appear in the magazine. Email us at editor@youngrider.com.

This article about a horse rushing the jumps appeared in the Spring 2020 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Horse and Pony Questions: Rushing the Jumps appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Leslie Potter

Most horses can be trained to jump. But many need help learning to jump well. A horse that jumps in the correct style is not only a safer mount, but he also drops fewer rails and earns higher scores in competition.

Ideally, a horse’s jump should include a definite arc, referred to as a bascule, which begins when he rocks back onto his hocks. This frees up his front end so he can arch his neck, roll his shoulder and lift his front legs to clear the jump. Ultimately, the horse should jump with an impression of effortlessness, and he should exude an air of confidence in his athleticism.

If you’d like to finesse your horse’s jumping style, here are three basic exercises. Before trying them, be sure your horse is adequately schooled on the flat. He should maintain a steady trot and canter with minimal half-halts and corrections. Also, when setting up these exercises, adjust the fence heights according to your horse’s level of training. Remember that the goal isn’t for your horse to jump higher, it’s for him to jump better.

Exercise 1: The Simple Gymnastic

This exercise is an example of a jumping gymnastic (also known as a grid), and is a fairly common one used by hunter, jumper and eventing riders. The objective is to teach the horse to regulate his pace and length of stride from start to finish while also encouraging him to use his hocks as he springs up and over the jumps, creating a bascule.

Exercise 1: Set up a simple gymnastic grid that begins with a placing pole and low cross-rail followed by a low vertical and then a higher vertical. Photo by Leslie Potter

Lay a ground pole about 9 feet in front of a cross-rail. The ground pole serves as a placement rail to help set the horse up for a proper hop over the cross-rail. Then measure about 18 feet and make a low vertical, and then another 21 feet to another, slightly higher vertical.

Due to the distances between elements, always trot into this exercise in a light half-seat with soft contact on your horse’s mouth. He’ll trot over the placement pole, hop over the cross-rail, and then take one easy canter stride before each of the verticals.

Although you may guide your horse with subtle aids so he stays on a straight track, don’t try to push him faster or hold him to a shorter stride. Allow him to figure out how to use his body and adjust his sense of balance to negotiate each aspect of the exercise. As his confidence grows, you can raise the heights of the vertical jumps up to 3 feet.

Exercise 2: Trot Large Cross-Rails

Cross-rails may seem like the most elementary level jump, reserved for kids and very green horses. Yet they serve an important purpose in helping a horse to jump in good style. The angle of the crossed rails, as they ascend on either side of the horse, act as reminders to keep his body straight and his front legs tightly folded.

Exercise 2: Trotting large cross-rails that have a placing pole on takeoff and landing will keep your horse’s footwork snappy. Photo by Leslie Potter

Set several moderately sized cross-rails around your arena. Add ground poles, which will act as placement poles, on both the take-off and landing sides of each cross-rail. Be sure to roll them about 9 feet away from the base of the cross-rails.

At the trot, approach each cross-rail at a steady pace, with light contact on your horse’s mouth. Focus on riding a straight track directly through the center of the cross-rail. Resist the urge to send your horse forward or make him leap over the placement pole.

Again, let him figure out the rhythm and balance necessary to step over the pole, jump over the cross-rail and then rebalance himself to hop over the placement pole on the landing side. His forward momentum should have him cantering away from the exercise until you bring him back to a working trot and head toward your next cross-rail exercise.

Exercise 3: Canter Ramped and Square Oxers

Oxers are the quintessential jump for teaching a horse to lift his front end and develop a bascule through the air. Created from two sets of standards, the rails of an oxer can be either ramped (the back rail several inches higher than the front rail) or square (both rails set at the same height).

Exercise 3: When you’ve done the correct preparation, jumping oxers will really improve your horse’s style. Photo by Leslie Potter

Ramped oxers give the horse more time, and a clearer visual cue, to raise his front legs. Square oxers are arguably more challenging for the horse because he has little room for miscalculation. If he doesn’t snap his front legs up in a tidy effort, he’ll bump his knees on the front rail. That’s why it’s best to start cantering ramped oxers, with the back rail set at about 2’6″, before progressing to square oxers at the same height.

Although oxers don’t require placement poles, you do need to have an accurate eye for a take-off distance. That means you’ll ride to each oxer on a consistent canter stride without micromanaging where your horse will leave the ground.

Oxers are ubiquitous in all sorts of competition over jumps. Once you and your horse can sail over them in a relaxed, confident manner, you’ll both be jumping—and showing—in style.

This article about jumping in style appeared in the April 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post English Training: Three Exercises to Help You Jump in Style appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Cantering over poles on the ground set at jump distances will help you gauge whether to lengthen or collect your horse’s stride for an actual course. Photo by Leslie Potter

Getting the right counts in a line can often seem like the ultimate test on a jumping course. Lines are two or more jumps set apart by a measured distance, and are meant to be ridden in a specific number of consistent, even strides. Any deviation is usually considered a fault in hunter and equitation competition. If you and your horse struggle with lines, here are some tips to help solve the problem for the perfect jumping line, courtesy of hunter and equitation trainer Susan Smith of Norco, Calif.

Know Your Horse’s Canter

First, you need to analyze your horse’s canter stride.

“Most people canter around their arena on a 10- to 11-foot stride without realizing it,” says Smith. At shows, the measured distance in a line is based on a standard 12-foot stride.

“If you’re used to cantering on a 10-foot stride, and setting lines at home according to your comfort zone, you’ll get to a show and be suddenly surprised,” she says.

It’s always good to practice lines at home before going to a show so that you can learn to adjust your horse’s stride between jumps. Photo by Leslie Potter

Smith suggests cantering over poles on the ground that are set at a distance mimicking a simple line. Then you can gauge whether you need to lengthen or collect your horse’s stride for an actual course.

“I set two ground poles about 66 feet apart, which should ride in five strides,” says Smith, who notes that the distance is about 6 feet shorter than the traditional measurement because they aren’t actual jumps.

“They’re just poles, so the horse’s arc won’t be much more than just a canter stride. But this will still give you a clear idea of your horse’s normal canter stride.”

If you discover that your horse runs out of room between the poles, daring to leave out an entire stride, use your aids to collect him. Open your hip angle, settle a little deeper into the saddle and steady slightly with your hands.

Yet if you’re like most riders and realize your horse wants to add an extra stride (or two) between the poles, you’ll need to lengthen his stride. Close your hip angle and soften your contact with his mouth. With every stride, press your horse forward with your leg.

“But be careful,” says Smith. “You want to encourage your horse to open up his stride, not merely go faster. There’s a definite difference.”

To practice riding a straight track, use ground poles to create an alley or lane between the jumps. Photo by Leslie Potter

Ride the Exercise

Smith has a favorite exercise for riders who seem to lose their way inside a line of jumps.

“As an example, let’s take a typical six-stride line,” she says. “Most riders jump in, get to the third or fourth stride, and then suddenly realize they’re never going to make it out in six strides. They do one of two things. They either grab with their leg and chase their horse through the line, which usually results in an ugly chip [short, awkward stride] at the end. Or they grab onto their horse’s mouth out of fear, holding their horse back, which ultimately adds extra strides in the line.”

To help riders learn to judge where they are in a line, Smith sets two jumps (about 2’9″ to 3′ high) 80 feet apart. This means the line will ride six strides from the first jump to the second jump.

Midway through the line (at 40 feet), she places a pair of cones about 10 feet apart as visual markers. The goal is to get your horse’s front end between the cones on the third stride, which is the halfway point as you ride through the line. Then you know you have another three strides before your horse leaves the ground to jump out of the line.

“If your horse is several feet behind the cones on the third stride, then you have to move up for the last few strides to make the correct count,” says Smith. “If you’re several feet past the cones, then you must collect your horse and steady. Ultimately, it’s a way for you to develop an eye or a feel for when you’re spot-on to get six even strides in a six-stride line.”

Tips for a Straight Track

Put a pair of cones 40 feet after the first jump as visual markers for the halfway point in a line. Photo by Leslie Potter

Smith warns against any zigging or zagging within a line.

“If you deviate from a straight track in a line, you’re adding footage. You’ve made the distance between the jumps even longer, and you’ll be forced to add a stride.”

To practice riding a straight track, use ground poles to create an alley or lane between the jumps. Lay pairs of poles perpendicular to the jumps, about 6 feet apart. Include them before the first jump of a line, through the middle and just after the last jump, too. They’ll help you focus on staying straight.

This article on the perfect jumping line appeared in the March 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Stride Right for the Perfect Jumping Line on Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Yuris/Shutterstock

QUESTION: I had a tight, close-knit bond with my first horse. Now I have a new horse, and I want to have that same type of relationship. I haven’t gotten there yet. How can I get closer to my horse?

ANSWER: That close bond you desire is something to strive for. As you already know, it’s the most rewarding part of being an equestrian. Here are three suggestions to help with your new horse.

1. First, get to know your horse. Does he have any funny little habits? What are some interesting aspects of his behavior? What makes him a real character in the barn? Once you identify these traits, you can learn to appreciate him as a unique individual.

2. Next, spend time with him. Groom him lavishly, discovering that special “itchy spot” where he loves to be brushed. Talk to him in a quiet, soothing manner. Share your secrets (he won’t repeat them!), and let him get used to the sound of your voice. Practice saying his name in a specific tone. Eventually he’ll recognize it and respond when you call him.

3. Finally , in addition to riding work, use groundwork exercises to connect with your horse. One example is a simple showmanship pattern that includes turning and backing up. Leading him through the obstacles of a trail course is another idea. Both encourage the two of you to work together as a team. Be fair and consistent when you correct his mistakes. Reward him for making good choices and responding to your cues. In a short time, your new horse will feel like an old, trusted friend.

This article about how to get closer to your horse appeared in the January/February 2020 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Horse and Pony Questions: Building a Bond appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Leslie Potter

Have you been accused of ducking over jumps? If so, you’re not alone. Ducking is a common bad habit. It occurs when your upper body breaks over too far, almost as if you’re lying on the horse’s neck. Sometimes riders lean off to one side until their upper body disappears below the horse’s mane.

Ducking can affect your horse’s jump by distracting him and throwing him off balance. Also, when you duck, you’re more likely to pop up and plunk in the saddle before your horse has a chance to land. This can make him hit rails with his hind legs.

Finally, ducking is unattractive. It’s too much unnecessary motion, and judges consider it a fault in equitation classes.

Do you need to ditch the ducking habit? Here are three reasons why it might have begun in the first place, plus tips on how to fix it forever.

1. The Chair Seat

A chair seat looks as if you’re sitting in a chair at the dining table: Your upper body is rigidly upright with your leg bent out in front of you. Stirrups that are too long can also be a factor. In a chair seat, you’re behind the motion of a jumping horse. You’re forced to thrust your upper body toward his neck in an effort to catch up.

Practice riding in two-point at all gaits to get your leg under you in the right alignment. Photo by Leslie Potter

To fix the chair seat, learn to perfect the two-point position. Adjust the length of your stirrups if necessary. Then ride in two-point at all gaits until you feel in harmony with your horse’s forward motion. It’ll be impossible to hold your two-point (especially at the canter) if your upper body is inclined too far forward or too far back. Keep in mind that your two-point is very similar to the position you should have over a jump.

2. Low, Fixed Hands

If your hands are held below the withers, you may also be pressing down onto your horse’s shoulder. That does seem like a secure way to steady yourself over the jump. Unfortunately, rigid hands pull against your horse’s mouth. When he jumps, you may resort to ducking so that your horse has some amount of freedom. Instead, you should be helping your horse with your hands.

Use a neck strap as a reminder to push your hands forward as opposed to keeping them at the withers. Photo by Leslie Potter

When your hands function properly, you can communicate with your pony and give him freedom to jump. Shorten your reins so your hands are held above and in front of the withers.

For a visual reminder, use an old stirrup leather as a neck strap that sits about a third of the way up his neck. Once you start jumping, press your hands forward to the strap—this will keep your hands off the withers and encourage a good two-point position.

3. A Poor Canter

Does your horse have a lazy canter? Too much pushing with your seat and bumping with your heels can put you behind the motion of your horse. Then, when your horse does reach the jump, you might throw your upper body forward in an attempt to help him leave the ground, which leads to ducking.

The right quality of canter means your horse moves freely forward with controlled energy toward the jump. Photo by Leslie Potter

This habit could lead to an accident. If your horse refuses the jump, your sudden forward lunge could send you flying out of the saddle.

Work on developing your horse’s canter. You may need help from your trainer or instructor. Perhaps she can tell if your bit is too severe or your martingale is too short. Maybe your pony is becoming bored or sour about jumping and needs a change in his routine.

Once you discover the problem, you can fix it. Ideally, your horse should canter freely forward to each jump with controlled energy—then you won’t have to work so hard. Now you can focus on your position.

Bouncing to Success Photo by Leslie Potter This handy jumping exercise can help you ditch the ducking. Rather than taking a stride between each element, your horse will land and immediately leave the ground again. It will feel as if he’s bouncing through the exercise. You won’t have the time to duck, sit down in the saddle, and then duck again. To set this exercise, lay one ground pole about 9 feet in front of a cross-rail. Measure 9 feet and set another cross-rail. Then measure 9 feet again and set a third and final cross-rail. (If your horse has an extra long stride, you can increase the measurements between cross-rails to 10 feet.) Be sure that you approach the exercise at a trot—it’s not set for cantering. Hold a two-point position all the way from your approach until several strides after the last cross-rail. Just stay still in the two-point. You’ll feel the motion of your horse jumping up to you instead of closing your upper body down to meet his neck. As you get comfortable, raise the cross-rails to low verticals (about 2 feet high). After some practice, your ducking will disappear!

This article about how to stop ducking while jumping originally appeared in the November/December 2019 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post English Lesson: How to Stop Ducking While Jumping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Leslie Potter

Like many equestrians, you may dream of jumping your horse. The sensation of piloting your horse while he takes flight is like none other in riding. Simply put, it’s fun. Plus, the ability to calmly and safely hop over low obstacles can be part of a well-rounded horse’s schooling. Unfortunately, too many horses are rushed into jumping, and as a result, they become tense and resistant. By starting slowly as you introduce your horse to jumping and establishing a solid foundation, your horse can learn to develop confidence in his own abilities and become a reliable partner over jumps.

Step 1: Finesse Your Flatwork Before You Introduce Your Horse to Jumping

Before jumping, make sure your horse is well-schooled on the flat, able to lengthen and shorten his stride smoothly. Photo by Leslie Potter

Before you consider jumping, be sure that your horse is fully schooled in the principles of flatwork. First, he must walk, trot and canter at a consistent pace. Occasional half-halts are fine, but you shouldn’t feel compelled to hang on the reins to keep his speed in check. There’s a certain amount of “letting go” that’s necessary in jumping, and your horse should not surge forward the moment you soften the reins.

Next, your horse should willingly lengthen and shorten his stride in response to gentle aids. Remember that collection doesn’t simply mean going slower; your horse should become rounder through his body and noticeably shorten his stride. Conversely, lengthening equates to your horse stretching his entire frame so that he covers the ground in a longer stride. He won’t necessarily go faster. Both of these traits give you the ability to make subtle adjustments on your approach to a jump.

Third, your horse must understand the difference between leg pressure that means “go faster” and leg pressure that means “move over.” Once your horse moves laterally away from leg pressure applied behind the girth, it’ll be easier to ride a straight track to the center of each jump. Otherwise you’ll be forced to pull him to the center using a direct rein, and invariably that creates a crooked horse that is more likely to run out at the base of a jump.

Finally, check your horse’s power steering and brakes. Rudimentary patterns, such as circles, serpentine loops and figure-8s, reinforce your aids and help your horse develop his natural sense of balance. They also simulate the lines and turns found on most courses. By practicing these patterns on the flat, you can evaluate how easily you might navigate your horse around an actual jump course.

Step 2: Practice Over Poles

Start out over single poles, walking, trotting, and eventually cantering. Stay in a constant rhythm so that your horse doesn’t take a big leap over the pole. Photo by Leslie Potter

Ground poles are the foundation of future jumping exercises. Although they appear simple, ground poles can teach your horse invaluable lessons about pace, balance, length of stride and straightness before you ever introduce him to jumping.

To begin, gather a half-dozen or more brightly painted ground poles and scatter them around your arena. Set most of them perpendicular to the arena rail, about 10 feet inward, so you have the option of foregoing them. Don’t worry about measuring distances from pole to pole. Just leave plenty of room so you can work on your horse’s adjustability and vary the number of strides he puts between them. Also set one pole on an angle in the center of your arena so you can ride a long approach across the diagonal.

Gradually incorporate the ground poles into your flatwork. Walk over a few poles so your horse gets the idea. Then progress to a posting trot. Guide your horse over several poles, then circle or reverse direction before trotting over a few more.

Ride toward each pole with a sense of purpose but without driving your horse to the poles with your leg aids. Keep your horse on a straight track to, over and away from each ground pole. If he clunks a pole here and there, stay calm and continue on to the next one.

Scatter individual poles around the ring, not placing any particular striding distance between them. Photo by Leslie Potter

Eventually try cantering over them, which is more challenging than it appears. Ideally, your horse should maintain his canter rhythm as he goes over the poles. He shouldn’t make sudden leaps, break to a trot or switch leads.

Small adjustments as you approach the poles are fine, such as steadying his pace or collecting or lengthening his stride. However, grossly altering your horse’s stride to reach a pre-determined take-off spot is a bad habit to avoid. Cantering over ground poles is where your horse learns to trust his own judgement and develop an eye for a takeoff spot.

Step 3: Cross-Rails and Placement Poles

Once you and your horse are comfortable working over ground poles, it’s time to move up to cross-rails as you introduce him to jumping. The configuration of cross-rails invites your horse to seek the center of the jump.

Begin by stacking several ground poles between a set of standards. Then trot back and forth over this miniature obstacle, being sure to start and stop on a straight line. Resist the urge to make your horse jump the stacked poles. Focus on maintaining a steady trot from start to finish. When you remain calm and consistent, it allows your horse to comprehend the task before him.

Use ground poles 9′ before and after a cross-rail to help ensure success. Photo by Leslie Potter

Next, set a small cross-rail (about 12-14″ high in the center) between your standards. Again, just trot over it in a straight line with a crisp halt afterwards. Your horse may hop over it or haphazardly trot over it, one leg at a time. Either effort is fine; don’t rush him. When he seems confident with that task, it’s time to encourage him to actually jump.

Raise your cross-rail to about 18″ and then set a ground pole on each side, about 9 feet away from the cross-rail. These act as placement poles, which help ensure success. Placement poles regulate your horse’s pace and length of stride, and help your horse put his feet in the correct spot for leaving the ground.

Approach this little exercise at a steady trot. Your horse should step over the first placement pole, jump over the cross-rail, and then regain his balance so he can step over the placement pole on the landing side. Encourage him to canter away to reinforce forward momentum, and then stop in a straight line.

Despite the sense of accomplishment that comes from jumping, don’t be in a hurry to try more advanced exercises. Even more important, adhere to the old adage: “Trot first, canter later.” The trot’s slower speed gives your horse a chance to think about the process of jumping.

This means you’ll spend weeks—perhaps even a month or more—trotting cross-rails and low (up to 2’3″) verticals with the aid of placement poles before attempting to canter a single jump as you introduce him to jumping. Yet, with a successful foundation, you and your horse will be jumping with joy for years to come.

This article on how to introduce a horse to jumping appeared in the January 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Baby Steps: 3 Steps to Introduce Your Horse to Jumping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.