“These insects make their appearance in the spring and become sparse in the cold winter months, but generally they remain active year-round, especially in places like Florida, contributing to the chronic causes of allergic skin disease in some horses,” says Caitlyn Henderson, DVM, of Peterson Smith Equine Hospital in Ocala, one of Florida’s largest equine clinics.

The condition is often seasonal with chronic relapses, but horses in warmer climates may be affected year-round.

Photo by Bob Langrish

Clinical Signs of Insect Bite Hypersensitivity in Horses

Horses suffering from IBH often present with recurrent hives and/or chronic itching (pruritus). Clinical signs of IBH can include:

◆ Circular areas of crusting caused by inflammation (bacterial folliculitis)

◆ Blisters (papules)

◆ Hair loss (alopecia)

◆ Raised, hard, thickened areas of skin

◆ Broken hairs with sores in mane and tail head

◆ Self-trauma from rubbing

◆ Pigmentary alterations

◆ Behavioral changes due to discomfort

“Signs can often start as very subtle, especially when under the mane or at the tail head,” says Henderson. “Broken hairs are easy to miss in the beginning.”

Intense itching can cause allergic horses to rub bald spots and sores into their manes and tails. Photo by Christiane Slawik

Skin lesions develop where insects feed. This is typically along the horse’s ventral chest and abdomen, under the mane, along the withers and back (dorsum), tail base, and inguinal areas (between the hind legs), as well as on the face and ears.

“These lesions all come with a degree of itching, which feeds the cycle of lesion development, eventually causing severe scarring, permanent hair loss, and depigmentation,” says Henderson.

Why It Happens 

With IBH, a half-ton horse can’t hold his own against tiny insects.

The horse’s immune system is triggered by proteins and enzymes in the insects’ saliva as they feed. The horse’s body identifies those salivary enzymes and proteins as foreign, which causes the allergic response.

“The immune system releases antibodies, specific immune cells, and inflammatory mediators that drive inflammation and cell migration to peripheral tissues near the bite site, which then drives itching and swelling,” says Henderson. “Histamine is also released from mast cells sent by the immune system at the bite site, and they release more enzymes that irritate nerves nearby, further driving the urge to itch.”

It’s a nasty cycle that will only continue unless the horse is treated and the cause addressed.

Diagnosing Insect Bite Hypersensitivity

Because IBH is often bundled with other environmental allergies, there isn’t a single test to definitively diagnose the condition.

 Veterinarians base their diagnosis on the horse’s history (including travel, exposure, housing, and environment), clinical signs, duration, severity, and frequency of those signs, previous treatment, and diagnostics. The goal is to rule out other skin diseases and determine the best response to treatment.

“Many practitioners will still reach for intradermal allergen testing to support their diagnosis, which is helpful if clients are looking for a more direct approach,” says Henderson. “Serum allergy testing has proven to be of little benefit for horses with their broad range of allergen exposure. It’s like sending your kiddo to daycare for the first time and then testing them to see what germs they picked up while they were there.”

Treatment Protocol 

There is no one-size-fits-all protocol. Medical treatment can soothe the irritated skin and provide relief, but fly control or insect avoidance is considered the mainstay of both treatment and prevention.

“No amount of bathing, fish oil, and cetirizine in the world will help a horse with IBH if we aren’t trying everything we can to reduce the insect population in their environment,” says Henderson. “It doesn’t matter how much Benadryl you give your child after playing in an ant pile if you don’t get them out of the ant pile first.”

Limiting places where flies can make contact with a horse through use of fly sheets, masks, and boots helps sensitive horses enjoy outdoor time. Photo by Christiane Slawik

She advises horse owners to prioritize reducing the insect population and limiting insect-horse contact. This includes:

◆ On-horse insect repellent containing 2% permethrin

◆ Fly masks with ear covers

◆ Fly sheet

◆ Fly boots

◆ Automatic fly spray systems in barns

◆ Fly traps (including sticky traps)

◆ Bug zappers

◆ Strong indoor fans

◆ Keeping horses stabled during peak insect feeding times

◆ Eliminating standing water in paddocks and barn area

◆ Diligent manure management and removal 

Strong indoor fans discourage flies from landing on horses. Photo by Terri Cage/Adobe Stock

Bathing the horse with medicated shampoo is recommended. Look for products that contain ingredients that support healthy coats and reduce dryness, as well as ketoconazole and chlorhexidine to reduce bacterial and fungal growth in the skin that can contribute to itching.

“Many veterinarians want to reach for systemic glucocorticoids, such as dexamethasone or prednisolone, and antihistamines,” says Henderson. “There is little research that supports the efficacy of these drugs for horses with IBH, but anecdotally they show promise in limiting the itch-inflammation cycle. Cetirizine (Zyrtec), another antihistamine, also has little research supporting efficacy against itching and clinical signs associated with IBH, but it is considered safer for horses than systemic glucocorticoids. Regardless, your veterinarian should consider your horse’s general health, risk factors, and clinical signs when starting therapy.”

If you want to try an oral supplement, omega-3 fatty acid supplements have been shown to improve skin lesions, but don’t help with itching.

Diligent manure removal takes away fly breeding grounds. Photo by Christiane Slawik

Secondary Infections 

IBH lesions disrupt the skin’s protective barrier and the population of healthy microbiota. When this happens, opportunistic bacteria and pathogens sometimes infect deeper tissues, causing secondary infections.

“Now, instead of just controlling the itch and giving the skin time to heal, you have to eliminate the bacterial infection before the itching resolves and the healing can finally begin,” says Henderson.

Skin lesions develop where insects feed, such as under the mane, and may not be noticed until the hair is rubbed out. Photo by Christiane Slawik

Immunotherapy

People get allergy shots, but do they work on horses?

Henderson says allergen-specific immunotherapy (ASIT) has shown promise in horses when administered over a period of two years, but so far treatment protocols have not been standardized, so results vary.

“ASIT is especially beneficial for horses who cannot avoid their allergens or who are exposed to their allergens for extended periods, often resulting in further hypersensitization of the allergic response,” says Henderson. “Horses in Florida, for example, are exposed to mosquitoes and biting insects nearly year-round, so those horses that have moderate to severe IBH even in our peak ‘winter’ are good candidates for ASIT.”

It typically takes three to six months to see if the horse will have a positive response to treatment. In some cases, immunotherapy has resulted in remission of the allergy. Your veterinarian can determine if your horse is a good candidate for immunotherapy.

“Immune-modulating therapies, such as Cytopoint (lokivetmab), Apoquel (oclacitnib), and allergy shots are still undergoing safety and efficacy studies in horses,” says Henderson.

Finally, don’t subject your horse to the questionable suggestions you may find when searching for home remedies for IBH. Applying used motor oil, bacon grease, or similar concoctions to your horse’s mane, tail, or coat won’t cure the condition, and can end up increasing skin irritation. 

This article about insect bite hypersensitivity in horses appeared in the May/June 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Insect Bite Hypersensitivity in Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Algae blooms are the bane of summer, turning your horse’s drinking water into an unappealing green slime. Photo by Richard/Adobe Stock

How to Reduce Water Trough Algae

While unsightly, many types of algae don’t pose a direct health concern. However, certain types of blue-green algae release toxins that can lead to colic and diarrhea in horses. In humans, it can mean skin irritation, stomach upset, and nervous system problems.

Water sources that have a lot of algae can be less desirable to horses and lead to reduced water intake. For all these reasons, it’s good horse-keeping practice to keep algal blooms to a minimum in your troughs with a regular plan of attack.

Algae are plant-like organisms that are photosynthetic. This means they need nutrients and sunlight to grow. When we can reduce or eliminate these, we have a better chance of slowing algae growth and keeping the slime at bay.

Here are a few ways:

◆ Seek shade. Ideally, place the water trough or tank in a shady or covered area. Moving it out of the sun reduces the water temperature and makes the environment less attractive to algae.

◆ Reduce contaminants. If you can, keep the water container away from feeding areas and manure piles. This will help (but not eliminate) pieces of hay, dirt, manure and insects from getting into the water.

◆ Skim daily. Using an aquarium net or pool skimmer, make a daily habit of skimming off anything floating on the surface and scooping up what you can near the bottom of the tank before these particles start to decompose and feed the green monster.

Additives to Try

To help keep water troughs clean, here are a few ideas that might be worth a try, including a couple important caveats.

◆ Barley straw. Prepackaged in small bundles or bales, barley straw is thought to produce a chemical that impacts the pH of the water and reduces the potential for new algae growth (but doesn’t reduce existing algae). Submerge the bundle on the bottom of a clean tank using a brick or other horse-safe weight and replace as indicated on the package.

◆ Copper. The chemical properties of copper inhibit photosynthesis in algae and can help to control it.

Important note! Copper is safe for horses, cattle and dogs, but it is toxic to sheep. Avoid using copper if your horses share water sources with sheep.

Small pieces of copper pipe are one option. Another form of copper is copper sulfate crystals, which, along with zinc sulfate crystals, have been used for years by livestock producers to help reduce algae. Ask your veterinarian for application rates and follow label directions carefully, including dissolving in warm water before thoroughly mixing into the water trough.

◆ Aeration. Algae thrives in still water, so an aerator keeps the water moving. This can discourage both algae formation and mosquito larvae, but be warned that curious horses may see the aerator as a toy. Attach it to the tank or put it in the center of a large stock tank where they can’t reach it.

◆ Commercial additives. A variety of equine water trough products are available, some containing enzymes and other ingredients. Always check with your veterinarian and follow the manufacturers’ recommendations for use.

Important note! Horses are highly sensitive to the slightest change in the taste or smell of their water, and they may refuse to drink if it changes. This can lead to significant health effects, including dehydration and colic. If you do choose to use additives, work with your veterinarian to implement the change slowly and safely.

Maximize Elbow Grease

While additives and biological treatments can help with algae, the tried-and-true method of keeping buckets and tanks clean is elbow grease: regular dumping and scrubbing. However, this can waste a lot of water and create a breeding ground for flies and mosquitoes in the process.

Here are tips to address both:

◆ Use right-sized troughs. If you have just one or two horses in separate pens, opting for smaller troughs or buckets means they can be refilled daily and dumped and scrubbed daily or every few days. Timed well, this can reduce the amount of wasted water. If you have multiple horses or don’t want the daily water bucket chore, opt for a larger trough or stock tank. You still will need to dump and scrub—likely at least once a week, depending on the temperature and other factors—so be sure the tank is small enough to work with.

◆ Pro-Tip: Create an exit ramp. There’s nothing like the horror of heading to the barn in the morning and seeing a drowned animal floating in your stock tank. Build an exit ramp out of clean wood that attaches to the top of your tank, or drill a hole in each end of a clean 2×4. Tie a brick to one end and submerge it in the tank, and tie the other end to the fence or wall behind the tank.

◆ Dump with care. Experiment with keeping troughs and tanks filled only partway and letting your horse drink down the water before you need to dump and scrub. When it’s time to drain, clean and refill, see if you can route the water away—maybe even watering a lawn area or landscape plants. This also prevents creating a mud hole that’s a breeding ground for flies and mosquitoes.

If your tank has a drain plug, attach a hose and let the water drain elsewhere. If your tank doesn’t have a drain plug, use a syphon hose attached to a longer garden hose. Simple syphons use a marble in a copper fitting that you shake up and down to start the flow of water. When nearly all the water has been syphoned out, then move the tank away from the area and dump the rest.

The right size trough, not overfilling, and scrubbing with bleach between refills will help keep the algae at bay. Photo by pimmimemom/Adobe Stock

Clean a Water Trough the Right Way

Starting with a sparkly clean water trough, rather than topping it off, will help the water stay clean longer. Here’s a recommended approach:

1. Empty the tank completely and remove all debris.

2. Scrub it clean with a stiff brush.

3. Rinse the tank with a 1:10 diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water), or about 1.5 cups bleach in 1 gallon of water. Be sure to use unscented and regular bleach, not the “splashless” versions. Swirl the scrub brush around the bottom and up the sides.

4. Let the bleach solution sit for 15 minutes.

5. Rinse the tank twice with clean water.

6. Refill the tank. The horses can safely drink from it right away.

While summer brings the potential for water trough algae, with a little planning and the right approach, your horse can enjoy clean, fresh water and you can win the battle of the slime.

This article about water trough algae appeared in the May/June 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Win the Battle Against Water Trough Algae appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Ultrashield Gold

Developed with the breakthrough Absorbine FlyShield® technology, this water-based formula works differently from traditional fly sprays by disrupting the insects’ homing systems stopping bugs before they bite. Defends against over 100 different insects—even when they’re at their worst.

Shop for $37.87 at absorbine.com.

Stretch Bug Eye Saver With Ears

A pull-on mask made to protect horses’ eyes and ears in summer. Made from lightweight, soft and flexible nylon stretch outer that forms to your horse’s face with raised, see-through mesh screen over each eye for unobstructed vision and mesh ears for extra protection.

Shop for $24.99 at weatherbeeta.com.

Fly-Bye Boots

Designed to stay in place with a unique design that combines stiff binding and an ergonomic shape tapered to fit your horse’s legs. The bottom of the boots are finished with a soft binding that makes for a comfortable experience for your horse. Easy to quickly put on and off with full velcro strip.   

Shop for $49.99 (set of 4) at majykequipe.com.

Horseware Fly Boots

Innovative 3D-constructed polyester air mesh outer with a soft fleece edging is comfortable and helps prevent flies from getting underneath the boots. Ideal for horses in warm weather given the cooling nature of their excellent air flow. Slim-fitting design and four strong adjustable straps keep boots securely in place.

Shop for $39.95 at horseware.com.

Professional’s Choice Fly Sheet

One of the most durable fly sheets on the market due to polyester rip-stop technology. Made from an ultra-strong, uniquely breathable and UV-protective nylon mesh that resists stains and wrinkles. The open-front design with double buckle closure ensures a perfect fit.

Shop for $231.95 at profchoice.com.

This article about fly season gear appeared in the July/August 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fly Season Gear appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

How you decide when to blanket—or not blanket—your horse can depend on many factors, including climate, coat length, access to shelter, his individual internal thermostat, health, age, and weight.

Photo by MW Creative Photography

Understanding A Horse’s Coat

You’ve probably noticed that blanketing can be a controversial topic.

“Everybody has an opinion, but nobody seemed to have the science to back it up,” says Michelle DeBoer, Ph.D., an associate professor at the University of Wisconsin River Falls with a research interest in horse blanketing. She began her research with the goal of improving horse welfare and reducing stress for owners making blanketing decisions.

To understand how to blanket horses, we must understand how their natural coats work. According to DeBoer, a horse’s coat provides warmth using piloerection. Piloerection, which occurs in many kinds of animals, works when the hair stands up on end. When you see your horse’s coat “puff up,” it is actually creating air pockets underneath the hair follicles, which traps warmth.

Weather conditions may impact your horse’s ability to fluff up. For example, a wet coat cannot use piloerection, which creates a risk that your horse can become cold. According to the website for Mid-Rivers Equine Centre in Wentzville, Mo., snow can often be kept at bay by a thick coat. Heat can stay trapped within, resulting in snow simply sitting on top of the coat.

If the snow begins to melt, it may indicate that your horse’s coat is not insulating properly. On the other hand, heavy rain that breaks through the top layer of a horse’s coat and soaks down to the skin poses a risk in cold weather.

If the snow on an unblanketed horse’s back begins to melt, it may indicate that his coat is not insulating properly. Photo by Nadine Haase/Adobe Stock

“Flattening the Coat”

Many owners are concerned about blanketing because they fear it may damage a horse’s natural coat and insulating ability.

A blanket should not have a significant negative impact on the natural coat’s insulation. According to Fernando Camargo, DVM, Ph.D., an associate professor at the University of Kentucky and Sarah Coleman, executive director of the Kentucky Horse Council, there is no research that indicates that putting a blanket on a horse will make them colder by flattening their coat.

There is no research to suggest that blanketing “flattens” a horse’s coat and makes him colder. Photo by MW Creative Photography

If you’re concerned that blanketing today means your horse will need to be blanketed more in the future, there is little need for concern, according to DeBoer. It takes approximately five to 12 weeks to see a change in a horse’s coat due to blanketing, and the changes don’t seem to have long-term effects.

In other words, if you decide to blanket one winter, it does not doom you to blanket the same way next year and beyond.

Thermoneutral Zone

At what temperature should you start blanketing? This depends on the individual equine and weather conditions. However, DeBoer states that horses have a “thermoneutral” zone where they don’t use any extra energy to stay warm (or cool).

This temperature varies greatly depending on the horse’s climate. DeBoer says that horses adjusted to colder areas don’t start burning additional calories until it is 5 to 18 degrees Fahrenheit, while horses that are accustomed to warmer regions need to produce extra heat at around 41 degrees Fahrenheit. If wet, horses begin producing extra heat at around 59 degrees.

Similarly, Rutgers University’s Netti R. Liburt, Ph.D., and equine extension specialist Carey Williams, Ph.D., state that 59 degrees Fahrenheit is also the approximate bottom of the thermoneutral zone for a body-clipped horse or one with a summer coat.

If wet, horses need to burn more calories to stay warm at around 59 degrees Fahrenheit. Photo by Ella/Adobe Stock

Weight and Health

A heavier horse has a bigger insulating layer of fat, which will keep him warmer when the temperatures drop. An underweight horse, on the other hand, may feel colder sooner than other horses in the same weather conditions.

An overweight or healthy weight horse could perhaps stand to burn some of the extra calories it takes to stay warm in cold conditions, while a horse that is underweight, a hard keeper, or in poor health may not be able to spare the same calories.    

Hay Use

A horse’s digestive system creates significant amounts of heat while breaking down fiber in the hindgut, kind of like an internal wood stove, so forage is an important part of keeping a horse warm.

According to DeBoer, this also means that blanketing can help reduce hay use during the winter. In her study on horse’s dry matter intake and condition, she found that “blanketed horses had a reduced hay intake compared to non-blanketed horses.”

In her study on horse’s dry matter intake and condition, Dr. DeBoer found that “blanketed horses had a reduced hay intake compared to non-blanketed horses.” Photo by Reimar/Adobe Stock

If barns and owners are experiencing a winter hay shortage, or don’t have good access to places to put lots of forage in their fields, this may be an option to consider. It also can be important for horses who are stalled overnight, and therefore may go longer periods without forage.

Shivering and Ear Check

Sometimes an owner may worry that they can’t tell if their horse is too cold. DeBoer says that shivering is her No. 1 way to check.

“If a horse is shivering, he is too cold,” she says. “While they can shiver for short periods of time and be OK, if they are required to shiver for a long period of time as a way to stay warm, it can lead to weight loss and health problems for the horse. I most often see shivering when it is wet and windy.”

DeBoer also suggests that a more subjective way of gauging your horse’s temperature is checking the base of his ears.

“This can be an indicator of your horse’s condition, as a cold horse will reduce blood flow to extremities in an attempt to conserve heat by keeping the majority of blood within the core of the animal,” she says.

While a subjective method for checking your horse’s warmth, an “ear check” is a quick way to feel for whether blood is reaching the extremities. Photo by MW Creative Photography

DeBoer notes, however, that this is not an “end-all, be-all” method.

All of these factors can feel like a lot to consider, so it’s important to observe your horse for yourself. Is his weight dropping, is he shivering, or is he sweating and hot in his blanket? When it rains, does his undercoat remain dry, or is he immediately soaked through?

When you take the time to observe your horse, you will eventually develop an idea of how he reacts to different weather conditions.

“If you choose to blanket, you need to be more vigilant in managing your horse, but if you don’t, you want to make sure he has the resources to stay warm on his own, primarily adequate or extra hay and a shelter,” says DeBoer.

Blanket Away! (Mindfully)

Blankets are useful tools, and you may use them for a variety of reasons. In real-world situations, it may not be possible to constantly micromanage your horse’s warmth. Most unclipped horses that are a healthy weight can manage winter on their own, especially with good shelter access.

Most unclipped horses that are a healthy weight and have access to shelter from wind and precipitation can manage winter without a blanket. Photo by Margaret Burlingham/Adobe Stock

Throwing a heavy blanket on a horse and then leaving it on when the temperature rises again could potentially be just as harmful as a horse being cold.

“When we over-blanket, it can trap too much heat underneath the blanket,” says DeBoer. “Besides the obvious concern of making the horse uncomfortable, if he gets so warm he begins to sweat, this can create an environment that fosters skin infections or rain rot.”

When blanketing, always consider when you will next be able to check on your horse and switch his blankets. Consider your resources and time when deciding how to blanket.

Further Reading
◆ Best Horse Blanketing Practices
◆ Feeding Your Horse in the Winter
◆ Winter Horse Care FAQs
◆ Keeping a Horse Blanket Clean

This article about the science behind blanketing horses appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Science Behind Blanketing Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Александр Ульман/Adobe Stock

Ignoring any part of a horse’s nutrient intake can threaten digestive health, immune system support and overall wellness, but a lack of water for even a short amount of time will quickly lead to significant health risks.  

With water intake, however, it’s not just about drinking. A horse’s hydration needs will vary according to diet, nutrition needs and performance demands. 

“The right nutritional balance starts with high-quality hay and pasture. That essential fiber supports proper digestive function and sustains hydration and electrolytes that a horse needs, especially a performance horse,” said Kristyn Sturken, Sentinel® Product Manager. 

Though using diet to influence hydration starts with hay and forage, it doesn’t end there. The type of feed you provide can also positively impact your performance horse’s water intake. 

Guidance for Keeping a Horse Hydrated 

Simply giving access to water does not guarantee a horse will drink enough. Water taste, smell and temperature all affect a horse’s desire to drink, and diet must also be considered. For example, a horse that is eating a lot of pasture, with a high moisture content, may drink less than if he’s consuming primarily hay, which is drier and could induce thirst. 

With that in mind, here are some tips for making sure a horse stays properly hydrated: 

• Offer water: Encouraging a horse to drink can help stimulate thirst. 

• Monitor sweat loss: High temperatures, humidity and intense exercise make a horse sweat, which might require adjusting electrolyte supplementation to offset what’s been lost. 

• • • A horse that is sweating normally will have a lightly moist, shiny coat, particularly under the saddle. 

• • • Sweat will spread to the neck, chest and legs in a horse that is exercising harder. 

• Supplement with electrolytes: Giving a horse a well-balanced electrolyte supplement can help replenish minerals lost during exercise. 

• Forage: Forage provides a significant source of potassium, which can help horses maintain water balance.  

Additionally, it’s essential to know the signs of dehydration. While fatigue, illness or reduced performance are worrying, if dehydration is not tended to promptly, it could result in grave health issues. 

Look for these signs of dehydration and take action immediately if found:

• Elevated heart rate or pulse exceeding 40 beats per minute  

• Changes in gum color or loss of moisture on the gums 

• Loss of skin elasticity; pinch along the neck in front of the shoulder to test—it should retract without delay 

Helping a Horse by Soaking Extruded Feed 

Extruded feed is different from pelleted feed; it is pressure cooked with moisture, which produces light, airy nuggets that encourage more chewing and, subsequently, more saliva production. Slower chewing and increased saliva production help maintain the precise nutrient balance healthy horses require and can support hydration. 

In addition to easy digestibility making nutrients more accessible to the horse, extruded feeds can be easily soaked and prepared as a mash. This can be done much quicker than it takes to soak pellets and can provide extra hydration in horses who are not drinking enough water, which can also help prevent choke. 

Getting a horse to drink more water may help prevent certain digestive upsets associated with high-stress, high-intensity conditions performance horses might experience. 

High-Quality H2O and Electrolytes 

Performance horses are particularly susceptible to electrolyte imbalances because of significant fluid losses from sweat. Electrolytes are minerals that, when dissolved in water, are vital for a multitude of bodily functions, including nerve transmission, muscle contraction and fluid balance.  

Competitive horses face an increased risk of fatigue, reduced muscle efficiency and worsened nerve function if their electrolytes are not replenished. In severe cases, serious health complications can arise. 

Key electrolytes and their function: 

• Sodium (Na): Regulates fluid balance and is essential for nerve impulse transmission. 

• Chloride (Cl): Works alongside sodium to maintain fluid balance and is a component of stomach acid, aiding digestion. 

• Potassium (K): Crucial for muscle function and helps maintain the body’s acid-base balance. 

• Calcium (Ca²): Necessary for muscle contractions, nerve function and blood clotting. 

• Magnesium (Mg²): Involved in muscle relaxation and energy production. 

Supplementing Electrolyte Intake 

You can buy supplements to help restore your horse’s electrolyte balance. These are available as additives for your horse’s water, or even as an oral gel or paste. When using, always follow the label instructions. 

Providing salt is another way to help maintain electrolyte balance. In addition to acting like an electrolyte, salt can also stimulate thirst and encourage a horse to drink more water. 

Whichever method you choose, your horse needs free access to water. Electrolytes can encourage your horse to drink water. 

Also keep in mind that some horses do not like water with additives in it, so when adding electrolytes to their drinking supply, make sure to have a separate, fresh water source available. 

Keep a Horse Hydrated for His Health and Wellness 

A horse must stay well-hydrated to maintain proper nutrient balance and support his diet, workload and lifestyle needs. It’s important to recognize the signs of dehydration and understand what behaviors and conditions increase the risk. There are many effective strategies to help keep your horse hydrated. By actively managing your horse’s water intake, you can help prevent serious health issues and ensure they stay healthy, comfortable and performing at their best.  

This article is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Proper Hydration Maximizes Your Horse’s Nutrient Intake appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

For many riders, summer brings the most time to spend in the saddle. Days are longer and horse activities abound. This season is also typically when heat-related risks are highest. With intense exercise in hot weather, the horse’s internal temperature can briefly climb as high as 108° Fahrenheit. To recover, the horse is not just battling the ambient temperature, but also his body’s ability to cool itself. So how hot is too hot to ride?

When you’re training toward a goal, consistency is important, but be mindful when you ride to avoid overheating—or worse. For practical advice on summer riding, we turned to veterinarians in two hot—but very different—regions, the Southeast and Southwest.

Photo by ccestep8/Adobe Stock

Hot and Dry

Summer temps in the desert Southwest can easily climb to 120° Fahrenheit, so riding between mid-morning and late afternoon is strongly discouraged.

“Ride early and be done by 10 a.m. or break it into two sessions,” advises Christine Staten, DVM, a large animal veterinarian and owner of Adobe Veterinary Center in Tucson, Ariz. “[You can] ride early in the morning and late in the day, instead of one long session.”

Photo by By adogslifephoto/Adobe Stock

In addition to shorter rides, don’t hesitate to head for the shade for quick breaks.

“In dry environments, just getting under shade can reduce the temperature by 20 degrees,” she notes.

“This advice is as much for riders as it is for horses,” says Staten. “We see more heatstroke in riders in the middle of a hot day than in horses. Every year in Tucson, we have people die from heatstroke on the trail.”

Hot and Humid

Heat and humidity alone can be challenging for horses. Add exercise to the equation and health risks increase.

“The coastal humidity in Florida multiplies the heat index substantially because it reduces the body’s ability to dissipate heat through evaporation or sweating,” explains Caitlyn Henderson, DVM, of Peterson Smith Equine Hospital in Ocala, one of Florida’s largest equine clinics. “It’s akin to trying to breathe and cool yourself from under a hot, wet blanket.”

In addition to not riding during midday, Henderson always advises having a shaded area where horse and rider can take short breaks. Keep buckets of cool water available so the horse can drink. When humidity climbs, it helps to add a misting fan if the area has access to electricity.

Quick Math to Determine If It’s Too Hot to Ride

For a simple assessment on riding safety, add the air temperature to the humidity percentage.

When the combined total is under 130, a healthy horse can effectively cool himself. When the combined total is between 130 to 150, the horse’s ability to cool himself is decreased.

If the combined total is over 150, this ability is greatly reduced. Once the combined total is over 180, conditions can be life threatening for any horse under physical stress.

A good rule of thumb is to avoid riding if the air temperature and humidity combined total over 150.

Horses at Risk of Overheating

Certain horses are more vulnerable to overheating. These include:

• Old or very young
• Not acclimated to climate
• Out of condition
• Heavily-muscled, thicker body types
• Diagnosed with an endocrine disease, like PPID (Cushing’s disease)
• History of equine asthma
• Recovering from a recent respiratory challenge
• Diagnosed with anhidrosis (partial or total inability to sweat)

“If your horse shows any signs of heat stress, have your veterinarian evaluate him to determine if there are underlying issues,” says Staten. “If this is happening, there’s probably something going on that needs to be addressed so we can come up with a plan to remedy it.”

Heavily muscled body types are more susceptible to overheating. Photo by Terri Cage/Adobe Stock

Acclimation

Whether you live in a hot, arid region or where it’s hot and humid, it’s critical that your horse be acclimated to those conditions before strenuous exercise.

After 25 years of equine practice in Tucson, Staten has never seen a healthy, acclimated horse have heatstroke. The problems she sees are in horses that have recently moved to the area or have an endocrine disease, like PPID, or have anhidrosis.

Staten finds the best season to move a horse to the desert Southwest is fall or winter, as this gives the most time to acclimate. If you move in spring, expect acclimation to take at least a couple of months.

Horses coming to hot climates adjust best if moved in fall or winter and allowed several months to acclimate. Photo by Richard Nantais/Adobe Stock

“Dark-colored horses struggle more when trying to acclimate to our weather. If a horse is still shedding a winter coat in spring, that can make it rough on them,” she cautions.

“It’s recommended that human athletes take six weeks, minimum, to acclimate to a new climate, and no less than that should be afforded to our equine athletes,” says Henderson.

She finds it easier for horses to gradually acclimate to heat and humidity if they’re introduced to it in early spring, at latest.

Proceed with caution if you’ve just moved to an area where it’s significantly hotter and more humid than where your horse lived previously.

“I see a lot of riders who come here from New York and New Jersey and just want to ride, but to do this in the summer months is going to be more of a challenge,” says Henderson.

She recommends giving the horse a full week to recover from travel. Then return to light work under saddle, exercising at the coolest time of the day for at least six weeks as the horse acclimates.

She encourages riders to take it day by day, because some horses need more time than others to adjust.

Keep Horses Drinking When It’s Hot

Hydration is critical for horses in hot weather.

Electrolyte loss due to exercise or simply sweating can lead to metabolic stress and decrease the horse’s thirst response, which can result in dehydration and overheating.

In addition to access to salt (plain or trace mineral), horses may need electrolyte supplementation to replenish the sodium, potassium, calcium, and chloride lost through sweating and urination.

Henderson tells riders to prepare for summer temps by introducing electrolytes to the horse’s diet earlier in the year. The goal is to encourage water intake year-round, so horses are always well hydrated before exercising.

“If you’re at a show, offer water between classes,” says Staten. “If you’re on the trail and there’s a place to drink, let them. A horse should always be allowed to drink, even when he’s hot.”

Cool Down

Many people think the best way to cool a hot horse after exercise is just to walk him in the shade. However, research shows that the most efficient method is to continuously shower a stationary horse with cool (79° Fahrenheit) tap water. In a recent study, this method decreased the horse’s core temperature in an average of just two minutes.

“Focus water on the jugular vein and the large veins inside the legs,” says Staten, noting that this helps cool the horse’s core temperature.

Research shows that the most efficient cooling method is to continuously shower a stationary horse with cool tap water. In a recent study, this method decreased the horse’s core temperature in an average of just two minutes. Photo by Daniel/Adobe Stock

Finish cooling out by slowly walking the horse until his respiratory rate and body temperature are normal. Movement helps remove lactic acid from the system and keeps muscles from tightening up.

Always allow the horse to drink during recovery. Research shows that horses voluntarily drink more within the first hour after exercise when water is about 68° Fahrenheit.

Offer half a gallon of water at a time throughout the cool-down process until the horse doesn’t want to drink any more. Make sure there is plenty of water in his stall/corral to drink after he’s totally cooled out.

Summer Travel

Any time you trailer during the summer, pick the coolest part of the day to travel. Increase air flow by opening all vents and windows, but for safety’s sake, do not let horses put their heads outside the trailer.

“Hot metal is like an oven, so get them out of the trailer as soon as you get where you’re going,” says Staten.

Use Common Sense to Determine if It’s Too Hot to Ride

So, is it ever too hot to ride?

“If you think you are going to struggle to get through a ride due to the heat, so will your horse,” says Henderson. “If there’s ever a time you think it might just be too hot to ride, you’re probably right. Go with your gut feeling and take your horse’s health into consideration. It’s never wrong to delay a ride for a cooler time of day for the safety of your horse.”

This article about when it may be too hot to ride a horse appeared in the July 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How Hot is Too Hot to Ride? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Shelley Paulson

How Fly Spray Works

Although fly spray is a familiar product to horse owners, you may not have given much thought to how it works or what’s in the bottle.

“Fly repellents work by either repelling flies or killing them upon contact,” says Erika T. Machtinger, Ph.D., assistant professor of entomology at Pennsylvania State University in State College, Penn. “Repellents contain active ingredients that emit an odor or taste that flies find unpleasant and will try to avoid. Some fly repellents work by combining both repelling and killing properties. These repellents contain a combination of active ingredients that repel flies and contain insecticides that kill them upon contact.”

Active Ingredients

Most companies will list features and benefits on the front of the label, says Casey White, an entomologist and senior director of technical services and innovation for Central Life Sciences, Farnam’s research and development division.

“If it’s something that kills and repels, it’ll say ‘kills and repels’ or ‘insecticide and repellent.’ Often, it’ll call out major species of insects or arthropods, such as ticks, that the product is effective against.”

A wide array of fly sprays are available, with varying synthetic and natural ingredients, depending on your horse’s needs. Photo by Elizabeth Moyer

The small print is where you should pay attention to the listed ingredients, including the number and type of active ingredients and their percent concentration. The active ingredients are what give the product its killing and repelling power.

Active ingredients can be either natural or synthetic. Pyrethrins are a natural insecticide derived from the chrysanthemum flower. These offer knockdown benefits but break down quickly when exposed to sunlight. Pyrethroids are synthetic versions designed to have longer-lasting action; these include permethrin, cypermethrin, tetramethrin, and others.

Essential oils such as citronella, geraniol, eucalyptus, thyme, cedar oil, lemongrass, rosemary oil, and clove oil are natural options to repel insects. Fatty acids are another type of natural repellent, including octonoic, nonanoic, and decanoic acid.

Other ingredients include synergists, which work to amplify the active ingredients to provide greater killing power and/or longer-lasting protection. One of the most common is piperonyl butoxide (PBO). Others include butoxypolypropylene glycol and n-octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide (MGK 264).

Comparing Products

Looking at the list of active ingredients and their percentages is one way to compare products and select the one that you think will work best for your needs.

“Formulas that use newer technology and a higher level of active ingredients cost more to make,” says Amy Cairy, vice president of marketing for W.F. Young, makers of Absorbine. For these reasons, you can expect many of the best-selling fly sprays to come with a higher price tag, she notes.

Along with comparing the levels of active ingredients, it’s also important to look at the recommended application rate, says White. A product may look like it’s half the concentration of a comparative product, but if you have to apply twice as much of it, he points out that you’re essentially applying the same amount of active ingredient—just in a more dilute form.

Fly Spray Formulation

In addition to the active ingredients, a product’s formulation is another difference to consider. Most fly sprays can be categorized as oil- or water-based, and there are pros and cons to each type.

Oil-based sprays have staying power, but can attract dirt and dust and may be irritating to horses with sensitive skin. If you see “contains petroleum distillate” on the list of ingredients, that’s the tipoff that it’s an oil-based spray.

Water-based sprays are non-irritating and less of a magnet for dust, but will likely need to be reapplied more frequently.

Water and oil-based formulas have their pros and cons, depending on a horse’s sensitivity and need for longer-lasting application. Photo by Shelley Paulson

Many horse owners prefer all-natural formulas using essential oils and plant extracts as an alternative to chemical sprays.

Long-lasting sweat and water-resistant formulas contain ingredients that help the product stick to the hair shaft. These are designed to hold up well to rain and sweat under normal turnout and working conditions, says Cairy.

However, she notes that if you rinse your horse with a hose, sponge him off, or bathe him with shampoo, you are removing the product from the horse’s hair and should reapply the fly spray afterward.

Coat conditioners and sunscreen are other bonus ingredients you might find in a fly spray.

Choosing the Right Fly Spray

The right fly spray can depend on several factors.

“First, consider the type of flies that are prevalent in your area and choose a spray that targets those specific types of flies,” says Machtinger. “Next, consider your horse’s individual needs, such as any skin sensitivities or allergies. It’s also important to consider the spray’s effectiveness and how long it will last, and finally the ease of application and whether it requires dilution or not.”

The type of spray you use right before a ride may be different than the one you use before turning your horse out in the field. Photo by Shelley Paulson

The local climate and weather conditions, such as heat and humidity, as well as what you are doing with your horse also influence your choice of fly spray. You may want to have a few different kinds in your kit with different features and formulations. The fly spray you use right before you go in the show ring might be different than the one you’d use to turn your horse out in the field.

“For example, if you have a horse that is easily bothered by a wide variety of flies or is reactive to insect bites, you’ll want to find a long-lasting, broad-spectrum fly spray that both kills and repels insects,” says Cairy. “Or if you live where it’s hot and humid or have a horse that is prone to heavy sweating, you’ll want to reach for a fly spray that binds to the horse’s hair shaft and won’t sweat off.”

Not Enough

One of the biggest fly spray mistakes is simply user error. Either not applying enough, not using the product according to the directions, or selecting the wrong type of product for the insect species you are dealing with.

How do you know if you’re applying the recommended amount of fly spray? Cairy suggests counting sprays and measuring how many it takes to reach the recommended amount, then using that for future reference. (About 45 sprays is what she has found it takes to reach a typical 2-ounce application.)

Pest Resistance

If you find that your go-to fly spray doesn’t seem to be as effective, there may be a reason for that.

“In addition to the method of application, the effectiveness of these products can depend on the toxicity of the active ingredient to flies, and local pest resistance,” says Machtinger. “Flies can quickly develop a resistance to the active ingredients in many fly sprays (or already are resistant to them), reducing or in some cases eliminating their effectiveness.”

Pesky house flies are among the most affected by insecticide resistance. Fortunately, Machtinger reports, newer fly spray formulations using natural ingredients such as fatty acids and plant extracts have proven to be effective and longer-lasting in laboratory tests. The 2019 published study she led also suggests that formulation differences among pyrethroid products can significantly affect their efficacy.

“We do see some resistance to fly sprays, particularly permethrin,” says Cairy. “When horse owners start thinking, ‘My fly spray isn’t working the way it used to,’ we recommend that they rotate to one with a different formulation.”

When rotating products, look for something with an active ingredient that works differently than what you have been using, such as a different chemical class, advises White.

“Many of the on-animal sprays have the same mode of action, which makes incorporating other fly management tools even more important.”

Other Fly Management

There are many other things horse owners can do to help keep fly populations down, including good sanitation and manure management, and taking steps to eliminate fly breeding habitats and disrupt their life cycle.

“Scatterbaits, fly traps, feed-through larvicidal products and larvicides applied directly to fly development areas are other options that should be incorporated into a good integrated pest management (IPM) program,” says White.

Proper manure management is a good way to eliminate fly breeding areas and disrupt their life cycle. Photo by Daseaford/Adobe Stock

It might seem like a fly is just a fly, but it’s important to try to identify what fly species you are dealing with, because they aren’t all created equal when it comes to fly control.

“To prevent flies on horses, it’s important to first understand which species of fly is the pest,” says Machtinger. “Each species will have different methods of control that are effective.”

A variety of tools, including fly masks and sheets, will help repel flies on all fronts. Photo by Feferoni/Adobe Stock

She emphasizes the need to use a variety of tools in combination, such as good stable management and hygiene, fly masks and sheets, and species-specific fly traps.

Fly traps can be a convenient way to keep numbers down in fly attracting areas. Photo by New Africa/Adobe Stock

Flies are a nuisance, but armed with the right knowledge and tools, it’s possible to fight back.

Further Reading
◆ Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things
◆ Using Parasitoids for Fly Control
◆ Understanding Fly Spray Labels

This article about fly spray appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fly Spray 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“There’s a high caloric demand on the horse’s body to stay warm,” says Dr. Abby Geick, an equine veterinarian with New England Equine Medical & Surgical Center in New Hampshire. “Sometimes their previous feeding regime just can’t keep up, and that’s when you start to see some ribs or muscle loss, or they blow their winter coats.”

One of Geick’s go-to solutions is Sentinel Extruded Horse Feed. She says it’s a great option for many horses because of the fat and fiber content, and the extruded nuggets can easily be soaked and made into a mash, if needed. Horses tend to like it, and it takes them longer to eat, which provides additional digestive benefits, she explains.

The Importance of Forage

The foundation of any horse’s diet should always be good-quality forage, which provides the necessary fiber to keep your horse’s digestive system working properly. A typical 1,000-pound horse usually consumes about 20 pounds of hay per day, but in colder weather that amount may rise to 25-30 pounds.

“Fiber digestion is key to keeping a horse warm,” says Dr. Randel Raub, Director of Research and Nutrition for Sentinel Horse Nutrition. “When horses digest fiber, they produce body heat.”

Bran Mash: A Warm Winter Treat

Bran mashes are a good option if you’re trying to increase water intake, especially during the winter. Another great way to increase water intake is to make a mash out of your horse’s regular meal. Sentinel’s extruded formulas can be very easily turned into a mash to ensure a horse gets adequate water without mineral imbalances.

Water and Salt Prevent Dehydration

As temperatures drop, water consumption can decrease, so it’s vital that horses always have access to fresh water that’s not too cold. Offering a trace mineral salt block or supplementing your horse’s feed can encourage water consumption, lowering the risk of health concerns like colic.

“Horses need to drink plenty of water to keep their digestive system running smoothly,” Raub notes. “You should check your horse’s water sources at least twice per day to ensure they’re not frozen, and using an insulated trough and tank heater is a great option to keep water accessible.”

Winter Riding Care

While proper nutrition is the cornerstone of winter horse care, paying attention to other factors, like exercise, shelter, ice and mud management, are also important.

If you ride or work your horse in winter, plan for more care time both before and after rides. Bits should be warmed before you put them in your horse’s mouth. Wait until it’s no longer cold to the touch before asking your horse to accept it.

Horses that sweat during winter rides need to be dried out completely. A thick winter coat can hold moisture for a long time, and drying can take a while. Horses can be dried by rubbing with a towel, feeding hay or keeping the horse under cover and applying a water-wicking cooler. Once the horse is dry, fluff up their hair before turning out, which will aid the insulating effectiveness of their coat.

Shelter Is Integral

Horses also need shelter from the elements. Trees and low places act as a natural wind barrier and can provide some protection from precipitation. A three-sided shelter provides the best protection from winter weather. It’s also important to ensure the shelter offers adequate space for your animals, allowing for their natural behavior and accommodating their hierarchy so that even the lowest horse in the pecking order has access to shelter.

“Mud is inevitable around feeders, waterers and gates, but with enough space, your horse can usually move to drier areas,” Raub says. “To manage this, I recommend using durable rocks that can handle heavy traffic and improve drainage. It’s a simple way to reduce mud and prevent erosion in high-use areas.”

Horses and other livestock can become mired in especially muddy areas. Check your horse’s legs regularly for mud or ice buildup and monitor hooves to ensure they’re free of ice that could cause slipping.

Many horse owners choose to blanket their horses during the winter months. A horse living outside that doesn’t grow a thick winter coat could benefit from this, especially during cold snaps. Also, horses that don’t have access to shelter will appreciate a proper turnout blanket during inclement weather.

Be sure to take your horse’s blankets off regularly during the colder months to monitor body condition. It’s important to physically assess how they’re maintaining their weight.

“Winter care is all about setting your horse up for success,” Geick says. “By adjusting their diet and care to match the season, you’re taking a great first step.”

If you’re unsure if your current feed is meeting your horse’s winter nutritional needs, ask your veterinarian if a Sentinel extruded formula could be right for them.

Further Reading:
◆ Winter Horse Care FAQs
◆ Feeding the Senior Horse in the Winter

This article about feeding horses in the winter is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Expert Tips for Feeding Healthy Horses All Winter Long appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Grubärin/Adobe Stock

Professional equine grooms Cat Hill and Emma Ford believe there are no hard and fast rules about blanketing. The lifelong horsewomen have managed barns and horses for top riders in all disciplines, including Olympians. Together they run World-Class Grooming and share their expertise through clinics and books, including the top-selling equine title World-Class Grooming.

“The biggest rule is that you have to remember that horses are individuals just like people,” says Hill. “There are many horses that grow great coats and are really comfortable being unblanketed in many climates, all the way up to Alaska. But there are also horses that really struggle without being covered in some way.”

How Horses Stay Warm

Horses can weather winter quite well in most situations.

“Horses are well equipped to handle the cold, provided they are able to acclimate and stay dry enough to fluff the hair,” says Karen L. Waite, Ph.D., who serves as coordinator of the Michigan State University (MSU) Horse Management Program in East Lansing, Mich. She is also the director of undergraduate education in the MSU Department of Animal Science. “Horses stay warm in several ways: through the digestion of forages like hay, which produces body heat; by growing a thick winter haircoat, which starts to develop around August or September as day length starts to shorten; and by fluffing up their hair coat as the need arises.”

That “fluff factor” traps warm air against the skin, allowing the horse’s hair coat to provide natural insulation, much like a cozy down comforter. However, if the horse gets wet, that ability diminishes.

Many horses with natural coats don’t need blanketing in winter, while their older herd mates or those coming from warmer climates do. Photo by Margaret Burlingham/Adobe Stock

“A wet horse in 45-degree weather may be more uncomfortable than a dry horse with a full winter coat would be in sub-zero temperatures,” says Waite.

Additionally, a horse that moves from Florida to Minnesota in the middle of winter may not have a hair coat extensive enough to handle that level of cold.

“Most horses don’t actually need blankets to stay warm if they are allowed to develop a winter coat suitable to conditions,” says Waite. “The exception would be horses without adequate body condition or hair coat development, and occasionally older horses.”

Hill emphasizes the need to keep a close eye on senior horses.

“Just like older people, horses lose the ability to thermoregulate,” she says. “A horse who has lived without a blanket his entire life may suddenly need blanketing to retain condition when he gets into his 20s. He may not necessarily look cold. He may grow a huge, thick, heavy coat. But [some horses] really start to drop weight in the wintertime, and that’s because their body is burning energy to keep them warm.”

Hill recalls the story of an Arabian mare who lived at her family’s farm in upstate New York.

“Until she was in her mid-20s, she’d never worn a blanket and had always been very comfortable, happy, and hardy living out 24/7 with a run-in shed,” she says. “And then she got to a certain age where we really struggled with her weight in the winters. We bought her a heavyweight blanket that we put on her once it was consistently below freezing, and we had another 10 years of happy, healthy life with her. So as your horse ages, you may need to re-evaluate his blanketing needs.”

Why You May Consider Blanketing Your Horse

In addition to the weather and your horse’s age, coat and health status, there are a variety of other factors to consider in your blanketing decision.

An extreme temperature swing may warrant blanketing even for horses that normally go au naturel because they are not acclimated to that level of cold.

“If the horse has a full haircoat and is generally healthy, I would only blanket if temperatures were extreme, and outside the normal ranges for the area, unless he was old or had issues with body condition,” says Waite.

Access to shelter from wind and rain is another deciding factor in a horse’s blanketing needs.

“Rain is one of the hardest things for horses to handle without adequate shelter, because that squishes down the hair,” explains Hill. Even a healthy horse struggles when he can’t get away from the wet, she says.

Standing in wet or muddy conditions can also increase the need for blanketing, says Hill.

“When horses’ legs get wet, they struggle to bring their body temperature back up,” she says. “If a horse is standing out in a muddy field, you may need to put a warm blanket on him. Not just something to protect his back from the rain, but something with insulation as well.”

Horses that have been fully or partially body clipped will require blanketing. Hill and Ford firmly believe that if you have done any sort of partial clip, you still need to blanket. As Hill points out, the reason we clip particular areas such as the neck and chest is because they have underlying large veins, which help to cool the horse.

Horses that are body clipped, even partially, require blanketing. Another benefit of blankets is cleanliness if you have limited grooming time. Photo courtesy Dover Saddlery

“When you get a cold wind over those veins, you’re putting a lot of stress on the horse’s body. So even if you just clipped up his neck, you really need to put some sort of protection back over the horse to help keep him at a [warm] base temperature,” says Hill.

Another reason you might want to blanket in winter is cleanliness. There’s nothing wrong with blanketing for the convenience of keeping a horse tidy, say Hill and Ford. If you have limited time and you live in an area where mud is a real issue in the winter, blanketing can make things easier on both you and your horse.

Blanketing helps keep horses cleaner, which makes winter coats easier to groom if you plan to ride throughout the season. Photo by cascoly2/Adobe Stock

“Your horse is going to have a healthier and happier winter if you blanket him so that you can groom the areas that are exposed, but you’re not having to spend an enormous amount of time getting the mud or dirt out of his coat,” says Hill.

However, blanketing must be managed appropriately, which requires time and commitment. You’ll need to keep a close eye on the weather forecast, consider temperature fluctuations, and blanket accordingly.

“The biggest factor that people need to consider is that blankets need to be checked daily and changed as needed,” notes Waite.

It’s important not to just “set it and forget it” when it comes to blanketing. Blankets should be removed and inspected daily to check for rubs, sweat, and weight gain or loss. Photo Viktoria Suslova/Adobe Stock

Considering the Denier and Fill of Blankets

Blankets come in a mind-boggling variety. The first step is to select the right blanket type for your horse’s lifestyle. Any blanket that will be worn outdoors must be waterproof; wearing a soggy blanket is uncomfortable and will make your horse cold.

Turnout blankets are waterproof, durable and can be worn inside the barn or out in the elements. Stable blankets are not fully waterproof, and are meant to be worn indoors only.

Stable blankets are not waterproof and are meant to only be worn indoors. Photo courtesy Dover Saddlery

When it comes to blanket shopping, the technical terminology can get complicated, but to help clarify the basics, Lauren Donohue, assistant merchant and horse clothing product expert with Dover Saddlery headquartered in Littleton, Mass., says to start by understanding what denier, fill and material you need.

“Denier” refers to the toughness of the fabric, while “fill” refers to the weight and warmth a blanket offers, measured in grams (g).

“The highest standard denier we typically see on the market is 1680d, and that’s meant for horses that are really rough on their blanket; the higher the denier, the tougher the outer material is,” says Donohue. “Sheets with 0g fill won’t offer any insulation—it’s just like putting on a raincoat. The more fill a blanket has, the warmer it is.”

Outer material also affects the durability of the blanket, which can be made of polyester, polypropylene, or ballistic nylon.

When building a blanket wardrobe, horse owners should look for versatility that will keep most horses comfortable in most situations. Donohue recommends starting out with a turnout blanket, noting that the two most popular fill weights are 50g (lightweight) and 200g (medium or midweight).

“The 50g can be worn when it’s a little warmer, [such as if] you get a summer rain, and it can be nice for those fall days when a horse might be feeling excited in turnout,” she says. “The 200g can be worn in a lot of scenarios. I keep my horse’s 200g blanket on until deep winter in New England comes around.”

Because a blanket and even a sheet has weight to it, Hill points out that it can flatten the horse’s haircoat. For this reason, she is a fan of using a 150g turnout versus a turnout sheet with no insulation.

“Sometimes it can be counterintuitive that adding a lightweight rain sheet or blanket can actually make a horse colder because they can no longer ‘poof up’ their coat,” she says. “We’re huge fans of the 150g-weights as rain sheets, because the light insulation does a great job of keeping the horse warm and dry and reversing the effects of the flattening of the hair. That really hits the sweet spot for those horses that need just a little bit of blanketing.”

Hill and Donohue both recommend having a neck cover as well. For colder climates, adding a heavyweight blanket (300g-plus) should build a basic wardrobe.

Too Hot, Too Cold, Just Right

Knowing which blanket to put on your horse can be tricky. World-Class Grooming has a blanketing chart (see below) that goes from below 30 degrees Fahrenheit to above 60, for wet or dry conditions, from full body clip to hairy beast and everything in between. Still, it’s important to know your own horse and consider each horse’s needs individually to blanket appropriately.

How do you know if your horse is comfortable in his blanket? Shivering or sweating can be obvious signs that something is amiss. Putting your hand under the blanket can help tell you if a horse is overly warm (if you detect tackiness or sweat). However, a method Hill prefers to assess if a horse is warm enough is to feel his extremities: legs, ears and face.

“If those areas on his skin feel cool, then your horse is cold,” she says. “If the tips of his ears are cold under the hair, he’s cold. The tips of their ears and their legs should feel the same temperature as the rest of the horse if they are properly blanketed.”

If you’re unsure of the appropriate weight blanket for the weather conditions, Waite advises that you may want to err on the side of less, given that overheating and dehydration can also cause significant problems.

Healthy Blanketing for Your Horse

Improper blanketing can lead to a variety of health problems.

If blankets get wet, they need to be removed, as hypothermia or skin infections (such as rain rot) may develop, notes Waite.

“If horses or blankets get wet, that causes more issues than anything else,” she says.

Waite also emphasizes the importance of proper blanket fit, as sores may result from blankets rubbing. A blanket that is too small may result in the horse being unable to move about or rise normally, while a blanket that is too big can also cause injuries if the horse becomes tangled in it.

Because the constant weight of wearing a blanket can cause rubs and pressure points, Hill and Ford like to do what they call a daily reset. They take the blanket off and put it back on to make sure it’s sitting in the right place, while at the same time checking underneath for any sore spots, swelling or rubs.

“The most problematic areas are the withers, points of the hip, and points of the shoulders,” says Ford.

If you’re not careful, it’s possible to cause more harm than good with blankets.

“If you can let the horse grow a full haircoat and shed naturally, that causes the fewest issues in the long run,” says Waite.

If you opt to blanket your horse, she agrees that it’s critical to check underneath blankets daily, and to check body condition regularly. Consistent grooming is also needed to keep horses healthy.

While the main reason for blanketing should be for the horse’s health and wellbeing, Hill acknowledges that it can also be a horsekeeping issue—to keep the horse clean and make grooming and riding easier—and that’s OK if it’s done mindfully.

Safe Blanketing Procedure

Getting your horse properly dressed for winter weather requires some small but important details that are often overlooked.

There’s a correct “order of operations” to putting a blanket on and off safely. According to Cat Hill and Emma Ford, authors of World-Class Grooming, you should always secure a blanket from front to back: first chest straps, then belly straps, and finally leg straps. If there is a neck cover, secure this last.

When removing the blanket, reverse the process: neck cover; leg straps, if any, should be undone and hooked back up while not around the leg; then belly straps; and finally, chest fasteners.

“If the horse spooks or runs forward, you don’t want the belly or leg straps still on while the chest is undone, because the blanket can slide back and cause a panic situation,” says Hill. “A horse can get seriously injured from getting tangled in a blanket that way.”

Remember, too, that you must train a horse to wear a blanket, just like any other piece of equipment. Go slow, says Hill. If you don’t know that a horse has been blanketed before, having a helper halter him and hold the lead rope is beneficial.

One of Ford’s biggest safety concerns is leaving a blanket’s leg straps undone during the blanketing process. She emphasizes that you should always hook them back up so that they’re not dangling down when you’re putting the blanket on or off a horse.

“They basically turn into flying weapons,” she says. “Many of them are on elastic; when you go to put the blanket over the top of the horse they get caught on stuff, the horse can step on them, they can whack into the horse’s legs, and all sorts of things. They should always be connected to both rings, and the only time they come off is when you’re unclipping them and putting them around the leg and hooking them back on.”

Since horses like to itch and rub themselves against things, Hill and Ford warn that any snap on a blanket that is facing away from the horse has the potential to be caught on something. When the blanket is on, it’s important that the “trigger,” or opening part of the snap, should face inward toward the horse.

Best Blanket Fit

Fitting blankets is like buying jeans—every brand has its own fit and shape. Brands that work for some won’t work for others, says Lauren Donohue, assistant merchant and horse clothing product expert with Dover Saddlery. Here is her best advice on fitting a blanket.

The two major measurements to consider are the length and drop of the blanket. Horse blankets are usually sized based on the length of the horse’s side measurement, listed in inches or sometimes centimeters. To measure the length, start with a fabric tape measure from the middle of your horse’s chest. Go across the shoulder to the middle of the tail.

The drop on a blanket is measured from the middle of the spine to the bottom of the blanket (on one side).

“Each brand will have their own drop measurement for the blanket, and this will differ by brand. If your horse is [round and] well-sprung in the ribs, you will want to ensure the drop length of the blanket is sufficient coverage for your horse,” she says.

If your horse is on the line between sizes, Donohue says to consider whether you will be layering underneath the blanket at all, and if your horse is prone to rubs. If the answer is yes to either of these, she recommends sizing up.

It may take some trial and error to find the blanket that fits your horse the best.

“All of these tips for fit are helpful, but my biggest secret is to buy from a retailer with a return policy!” shares Donohue.

Blanketing Horses at Home vs. Boarding Barns

Hill and Ford have worked in barns large and small, with blanketing recommendations for each scenario. Blanketing options vary when it comes to keeping horses at home or at boarding barns, and for the policies a boarding barn may offer.

For people who care for their own horses and are not blanket-changing multiple times throughout the day, they recommend one of the interchangeable blanketing systems as a good cost-effective option. These typically include a waterproof outer layer with liners that clip in. The liners are usually less expensive than a blanket, and you can swap them out to keep them clean and dry.

A blanket system with liners will save money compared to a full wardrobe of blanket weights and is great for home horsekeepers, but is more difficult for boarding barn staffs to add and remove. Photo courtesy Dover Saddlery

“A clean blanket is really important to keep a horse warm, because if the polyfill absorbs oil from the horse’s coat and packs down, it no longer has air pockets and is no longer is warm,” explains Hill. “I always talk about ‘clean underpants’—we like to keep a sheet on the horse next to the skin. I keep two cheap cotton sheets that I can wash easily because then I don’t have to wash my big, heavy blankets as often.”

If barn staff are the ones blanketing and unblanketing your horse, it’s important to be considerate.

“If you keep your horse at a large boarding barn where somebody other than you is in charge of changing 20 horse blankets in a day, the blanketing systems are a pain for them because they have to take the whole thing off, change the layers, and put it back on,” says Ford.

In that situation, she recommends having a lightweight (100g or 150g fill weight), a medium, and a heavy because you can layer between those three. The barn worker can put these on or off as needed, and they can go in whatever order.

“At the end of the day, what is most convenient for the staff is going to mean your horse is blanketed appropriately if you’re not the one in charge of it,” says Ford. Ask them what they prefer and works best for them.

Key Takeaway

While there is no one-size-fits-all solution to blanketing, understanding your horse’s individual needs is key. Blanketing can be beneficial, but it certainly requires attention to detail. By following these best practices, blanketing can be a useful tool to help your horse thrive during the winter months.

This article about horse blanketing practices appeared in the November/December 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Best Horse Blanketing Practices appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Horses are naturally equipped to handle the colder months; summer heat tends to cause them more trouble than winter temperatures. As soon as the days begin to shorten in the fall, hormones responsible for coat growth kick into action by beginning to produce longer and thicker hair as well as a thicker undercoat. In addition to daylight, temperature plays a role: thermoreceptors will perceive a cold autumn and trigger the growth of a thicker coat. If a horse is kept indoors or blanketed, horses adapt by producing less winter fur.

As soon as the days begin to lengthen in December, horses will stop producing warmer coats, even if January brings extreme cold. This isn’t something to worry about, as horses who have spent the seasons in the same place will have a well-established coat—even a sudden hard frost won’t be an issue. (This is why it’s best to transition a horse from an indoor situation to your outdoor stabling in spring or summer.) However, it’s important to have well-fitting blankets on hand in case a horse develops a problem regulating his temperature due to illness. I’m not a fan of preventative blanketing for outdoor horses, but this doesn’t excuse irresponsibility. Each horse should have at least one insulated blanket and a waterproof sheet, even if they both gather dust for years. At the end of the day, it’s better to have an unnecessary blanket in your closet than to have a shivering, wet horse out in a blizzard. Calling a vet at night is a much greater inconvenience and expense than finding good blankets for your horses.

One of the most frequently asked questions in the early days of outdoor horse keeping was whether horses were cold living out in the winter, and the answer, more often than not, was: they’re horses, not people… they’re fine! But many caretakers, especially with purebred horses, saw the exact opposite: simply put, their horses were cold. It doesn’t always require the coldest temperatures, but sometimes just a quick drop from warm to cool. Cold, wet weather can really have an impact on a horse’s well-being. Wild animals have far more options when it comes to finding shelter from the wind and cold. They can find shrubs, tree cover, or uneven terrain to protect them from wind gusts.

Photo by Jana Sotonová

Maintaining an optimal body temperature is an absolute necessity for any warm-blooded organism. A constant body temperature ensures the normal functioning of bodily processes. The heat that a horse receives from his environment, together with the heat he produces, must be in equilibrium with output. If this equilibrium is disturbed, overheating or excessive cooling can make a horse very uncomfortable and even quite sick.

A horse’s muscle mass is excellent at retaining the heat produced by processes like digestion (fermentation of fiber in the intestines) and producing heat through exercise. A horse’s core isn’t subject to temperature changes based on his surroundings (because horses are warm-blooded), but the peripheral parts of the body (ears, hooves, skin) behave much like a cold-blooded animal’s would: they partially adjust to the ambient temperature, helping to maintain a stable core temperature. This is why you can’t tell whether a horse is cold by feeling his ears!

Temperature Management

Horses are excellent at regulating blood flow in the subcutaneous vascular network, which significantly influences temperature management of the entire body. Heat loss can be managed by vasoconstriction: blood flow is reduced in areas where blood would be cooled by being close to the surface of the skin. Horses are also able to cool off through vasodilation: by expanding these same blood vessels, surface contact is maximized and excess heat is transferred through the skin.

Skin, subcutaneous tissue, and fat act as powerful insulators. For this reason, it’s a good idea to have horses go into the winter season with a few fat reserves—they will be far less bothered by the cold than a skinny or underweight horse.

Photo by Marie Bulvová

Also, a well-made shelter can help protect a horse from the worst weather—an animal protected by a shelter can save up to 25 percent more energy reserves than an unprotected one. This is no small thing on difficult days! Horses that aren’t as cold on a windy, heat-robbing day will consume hay at a more relaxed pace as well, saving some strain on your wallet. A well-thought-out shelter, whether you build new or rebuild by converting an existing building, is an investment which will pay you back over time.

Shivering

Some take a shivering horse as the definitive signal that it’s time to blanket. Others believe that because shivering produces heat, the horses are warming themselves and are actually fine. So what’s the real story?

Peripheral thermoreceptors are activated by the skin becoming cold. As soon as a horse’s usual defenses fail to maintain a comfortable temperature—hair bristling (increasing the coats’ ability to insulate against the cold) and vasoconstriction (narrowing of the subcutaneous blood vessels)—the horse will begin to shiver. Using muscle tremors, the body will be able to increase heat production by about 30 percent. But there’s a catch—this only works for a short time, and it uses a great deal of energy.

Unfortunately, the first horses to begin shivering are usually somehow compromised: skinny, sick, old, or recovering from illness or injury. These horses are the ones with the smallest energy reserves, but even a fat, healthy horse can’t produce heat for long by shivering—the energy necessary for such demanding work is exhausted early. Although the body has other defenses against the cold as well (accelerated metabolism, for example), their effectiveness is limited. Shivering should be considered a sign that your horse is headed toward hypothermia—don’t take it lightly.

Tip: If you aren’t sure whether your horse is cold, place a hand by the elbow of a front leg. If this area is cold, your horse is cold enough that he’s uncomfortable.

This excerpt from Keeping Horses Outdoors by Iveta Jebáčková-Lažanská is reprinted with permission from Trafalgar Square Books.

The post Is My Horse Cold? – An Excerpt from Keeping Horses Outdoors by Iveta Jebáčková-Lažanská appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.