Instead of cruising along on autopilot, take a minute to walk through your barn chores and see them with fresh eyes. You’ll find ways to save money—as well as time!—with a few simple one-time tweaks to your current system.

Below are our top gizmos that will save you big over the long run.

15 Equestrian Hacks Amid Inflation

1. Cushion From the Cold

Make winter watering easier with insulated buckets and tanks. While tank and bucket heaters are nice, a single tank heater can increase your electricity bill by $30 a month!

For those of us living in northern states, insulated bucket holders, either purchased or homemade, make barn life easier. A little bit of insulation means no more swinging a rubber mallet at the side of the bucket to break up the ice every day.

Large, outdoor tanks can be set inside a heavily insulated box with a piece of floating hard insulation on the water surface. My 100-gallon tank in Maine stays amazingly ice-free most days in the winter. There are no extra electricity expenses (perfect for dealing with inflation!) and no extension cords crisscrossing the farm.

2. Magnetic Tool Strip

A hammer, leather punch, screwdriver, or knife: How many times do you find yourself needing to quickly grab a tool but end up digging around for long stretches to find one? You may have even given up and thrown money away on a replacement simply because you couldn’t find it when you needed it.

For less than $25, you can purchase a three-pack of heavy-duty magnetic strips. Designed to hold heavy metal objects, they can be mounted on the walls in the tack room or feed room to keep the tools you use most at hand.

3. Invest and Save

My best tool investment was a portable air compressor; small ones start at $100. Air compressors are worth their weight in gold, especially if you add up all the tires at your farm. Tallying up my truck, horse trailer, hay trailer, lawn mower, tractor, utility trailer and wheelbarrows, I have 26 tires on the farm, and at least one of them always needs air.

4. Cord Control

Keep your barn aisle neat with a wall-mounted extension cord reel. These cord reels keep power at the ready, yet neatly put away when not in use. This way, you don’t need to go looking through the tack room for the last place you saw an extension cord or deal with tangled, twisted cords, and you won’t have dangerous tripping hazards in the barn aisle.

5. Collect Rainwater

Here in the U.S., we have some regions that are desperate for rain, while others are wishing it would stop. Whatever the situation, we rarely take advantage of harnessing this natural resource.

Rainwater can easily fill your troughs, and you don’t need a fancy system. If you have buildings with metal roofs, just add a gutter and downspout directed to the water tank.

Numerous websites can help you calculate how much water can be collected based on the size of your roof and the amount of rainfall you receive. For example, my small run-in shed has a 24-square-foot by 16-square-foot roof. That’s 55,296 square inches. Multiply this by a 1-inch rainfall, and I can collect 55,296 cubic inches of water. Divide that by 231 (the number of cubic inches in a gallon), and the result is 239 gallons of water—not bad for a small run-in shed! This is actually more water than my trough can hold.

If you have horses in remote pastures with run-in sheds, you can add a storage tank to collect the water and a float valve to let it automatically fill the tank when the level drops.

Think about the time you save not having to lug water or drag out hoses as often, not to mention savings on your water bill. You can find plans online for building a simple rain barrel or a more complicated rainwater-catchment system.

6. In Hot Water

For less than $250, you can have hot water on demand in a system that is so portable, you can even take it to shows or to trail rides.

These portable systems can easily save you money over a permanent fixture (which runs at least $600-$1,000) if you’re not using it every day.

7. Clean Up Your Act

Washers and dryers at the barn are luxury items, but it sure is nice to not have to drag hairy blankets and sopping-wet towels into the house or off to the laundromat.

Thankfully, you don’t have to buy new, expensive machines to wash smelly blankets. My appliance repairman advised me to shop for used washers circa early 2000s; he said they last forever and repairs are inexpensive. Perfect for dealing with saddle pads and blankets! Check online classifieds like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace for used washers and dryers near you.

8. Take Note

For less than $10, you can turn any wall in your barn into a chalkboard. With some chalkboard paint and a few strokes of a paintbrush, you can create a fun board for writing notes, phone numbers and feeding schedules.

Compared to the cost and hassle of buying and mounting a dry-erase white board with markers that can dry up or permanently stick to the board, this old-school system won’t let you down.

9. Simplify Cross-tying

Get your cross-ties out of the aisles and put them in your stalls. Many barns now have cross-tie hardware in the stalls, or they designate the wash stall as a grooming area.

By eliminating cross-ties in the main barn aisle, there is less debris that needs to be continually swept up, and you’ll have more room for others to navigate around the barn when bringing horses in or out. You also don’t have horses in the way when doing routine barn chores like mucking or feeding.

10. Reinventing the Wheelbarrow

When it comes to wheelbarrows, the design hasn’t changed in the past 100 years. You have your basic choices of a single- or dual-wheeled (I prefer the single because it turns corners easier), and plastic versus metal tray.

Until recently, you could only find basic wood stump handles that seem to be designed for ridiculously large hands. Finally, someone realized actual handles would go a long way toward making the wheelbarrow better. Even when fully loaded, this type doesn’t feel like a runaway train when going downhill because I can keep a firm grip on the handles.

11. Bright Ideas

If you’re guilty of leaving on lights after you’ve left the bathroom, tack room or feed room, install motion sensors and watch your electricity bill go down. This, combined with energy-efficient LED lights, is a money and aggravation saver. Exterior lighting on motion sensors also saves money. You may hear that motion sensors are unreliable, but if they are set up correctly, they work great. I’ve used them on my farm for more than 25 years.

No power in an outbuilding? A battery- or solar-operated motion-sensor LED light is the answer. The one in my hay barn has been operating on the same set of batteries for seven years.

12. Shelve It

Roll those grain bins out of the way. Shop for used kitchen cabinets with slide-out bases, or just add a countertop and mount your grain bins on barrel dollies, then roll them under the counter. You’ll wonder what you did without this additional work and storage space until now.

Metal trash cans are 100 percent rodent-proof, and being able to move them around allows you to keep the floors swept clean.

13. Open-Door Policy

Another old-school idea is to put solid board rails in doorways when barn doors are open. Fit the boards into slots so they can be dropped down easily for people, yet keep a loose horse from leaving the barn.

Good ventilation is key to your horses’ health, and these board rails will allow you to leave the doors open, even if you own an escape artist.

14. Save on Salt

Instead of buying small salt bricks or spools, buy a 50-pound block and place it in a corner of the stall. It will keep your horse happy and provide a source of salt for more than a year.

On a pound-per-pound basis, you will save $40 or more a year. As a side benefit, many horses that chew up the smaller bricks will just lick the larger block.

15. Nothing But Net

For years, I fed hay outside on the ground, but when horses had their fill, they wasted the remaining hay and trampled it into the dirt. (With today’s inflation-induced hay prices, this could easily add up to hundreds of dollars wasted per year.) Hanging hay nets reduces hay waste, but wrestling the hay into the nets each day is time consuming.

At a dressage farm that I visited, I noticed they had hay-net hoops. This was the best of both worlds—no more hay waste and no hassle putting the hay in the net.

Become an idea shopper! Hundreds of ideas like this abound at stables that you visit. Keep your eyes peeled and look for them. By sharing ideas and looking at the ways that other equestrians are doing things, we can all benefit—especially amid inflation.

Also Read: Beat Inflation at Horse Shows

This article about hacks for equestrians amid inflation appeared in the January/February 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Dealing with Inflation as an Equestrian appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Outdoor Shade Structure

Cost: $110 – $135 per structure

Need:
◆ Shade tarp
◆ Four 10-foot-long 4″x4″ pressure-treated posts
◆ Four bags of quick concrete
◆ Concrete-mixing receptacle like a wheelbarrow
◆ Posthole digger or posthole-digging shovel
◆ Heavy-duty zip ties

Providing shade to animals during the sunny summer months is important, and if trees and run-in sheds aren’t available, building a very simple shade structure is another option. Luckily, it doesn’t have to break the bank.

Harbor Freight sells mesh tarps ranging in size from 8’x10′ to 12’x 20′. These tarps have a close-knit weave that blocks approximately 60 percent of light, and can be doubled up if needed. The tarps cost $33 to $55.

Purchase four pressure-treated wood 4″x4″ posts with a minimum height of 10 feet from a hardware store, and dig four 2-foot-deep post holes in the appropriate configuration for the tarp. These posts cost approximately $17 each.

Drill ½-inch holes through the beams within 4 inches of the top for fastening the tarps with heavy-duty zip ties.

Mix quick concrete to slightly drier than package instructions, and cement the posts into the holes, checking for plum lines and even spacing.

Allow the concrete to set for 24 hours before using a ladder to secure the mesh tarp to the tops of the posts with heavy-duty zip ties. Be sure to watch the shade structure for any wear and tear, including holes in the tarp or failing zip ties.

Five-Gallon Bucket Safety

Cost: $5

Need:
◆ Electrical tape

Five-gallon buckets are used for all sorts of things around the barn, including storage, step-stools and their intended purpose—watering horses. Their universal nature is appreciated, but when used as water or feed buckets, the small hooks attaching the handle to the bucket can pose a hazard to a horse.

Itchy horses can rub their faces on the small hooks and damage a nostril, eyelid or catch long hair in the tight space. To remedy this, buy some electrical tape from a local hardware store and wrap the electrical tape tightly around each of the two hooks on a five-gallon bucket. The tape will make the hook less accessible, and the stretchy nature of electrical tape means it will grip more tightly as it is applied.

As a safety bonus, make sure all double-ended snaps are facing toward the wall when the bucket is hung. This means there is less opportunity for scratching horses to snag anything on the clip.

Safer Grain Storage

Cost: $50-100

Need:
◆ Deep freezer or heavy-duty bin
◆ Clear tape to hang feed tags

Storing grain in a consistent environment can be difficult, especially if the feed room is more rustic. No matter the location, keeping pests and mold out of the grain bin is critical for your horse’s health.

A classic grain storage hack for your barn is using an unplugged deep freezer to store the feed. Freezers are insulated, durable and seal to keep animals out. Plus, they don’t have to freeze things to keep grain safe. They’re frequently available on local sites such as Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist for less than $100. Any other type of other tight-sealing, heavy-duty storage boxes that you already own or can find for second-hand purchase will work, too.

As a bonus hack for your barn, save all feed tags and tape them to the grain bin for reference while feeding that bag. The white tags located on the bottom of grain bags list the lot number of grain and sometimes “best by” dates.

Should something go wrong with the grain, knowing which lot the grain came from is vital for feed companies.

Metered Fly Spray

Cost: $25 each

Need:
◆ Automatic bathroom scent sprayer
◆ Batteries
◆ Canister of metered fly spray

Flies are a constant hassle of horse ownership, and controlling them can feel like a never-ending task. Employing fly boots and misting horses daily with the bottle is nice, but automatic fly-spray systems in barns take fly control to the next level.

Although metered fly-spray devices are available at feed stores for around $50 each, you can save by making them from battery-powered bathroom scent sprayers. You’ll need to make sure the device matches with the brand of metered fly spray you purchase. With some leg work, an automatic and adjustable fly spray system perfect for your barn and run-in sheds is within reach.

Muddy Spot Remedy

Cost: $0-50

Need:
◆ Shovel
◆ Organic material to fill

A muddy spot at a gate or barn door is not only irritating; it can also pose a danger to horses. Mud can be slippery and promote thrush-causing bacteria growth. Try this hack for a muddy barn area.

The first step to helping a muddy spot is to see if a small ditch can be dug to direct any pooling water away from the area. The width and depth of the ditch will vary with the size of the issue, but should measure at least 6 inches wide and several inches deep. Using some elbow grease and a digging shovel, dig a channel away from the muddy spot.

If digging an escape route for water isn’t possible, adding product to a muddy spot can help too. Some of the common options are woodchips, gravel and sand. Local tree-care businesses often have woodchips from jobs for free, as long as you pick them up yourself.

Gravel and sand are also widely available at local landscaping shops. Or buy by the yard, and not by the bag, at a hardware store.

Whatever material used, add to the problem area when it is dry and get a nice, sloped base draining toward the lowest point. When it becomes muddy, add material as needed until the mud is subdued. Eventually, the place will be built up with fill material and less water will be able to pool there.

DIY Corner Feeder

Cost: $30 each

Need:
◆ One 55-gallon plastic barrel
◆ Drill with ¼-inch drill bit
◆ Jigsaw
◆ Coarse sandpaper
◆ Cleaning supplies
◆ Heavy-duty zip ties
◆ Wall eyelets

Feeding horses with their heads in a downward position is the most natural and has been proven to put less strain on their bodies. There are several large, plastic corner feeders on the market, but they start at $100 and climb in price from there.

Make a budget-friendly corner feeder for grain and hay using a 55-gallon plastic barrel. These can be purchased second-hand on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist or from local businesses (make sure they only ever held food-grade materials) for approximately $20 each.

Once the barrel is home, measure and mark where it will be cut. Cutting one in half will yield two corner feeders, although the top portion will not be as suitable for feeding grain due to the grooves from the lid.

After measuring, drill a hole into the line of division and use a jigsaw to cut around the barrel as it lays on its side. Jigsaws can be purchased for about $30 or rented for about $15.

Once cut, thoroughly wash the barrel with hot water, dish soap and diluted bleach. Sand the rough plastic edge with a coarse sandpaper. Drill at least two small holes in the barrel near the top to secure it to the wall.

Using eyelets screwed into the wall, secure the feeder to the corner with heavy-duty zip ties and trim them short.

Making life easier around the barn is a constant journey, but one horses deserve and owners will be thankful for. These hacks should improve life around the barn for your horse, so give them a try.

This article about DIY barn hacks appeared in the September 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post DIY Barn Hacks appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

While UTVs can’t match the strength of a tractor, their smaller size and great versatility allows you to easily travel across many acres and accomplish a wide variety of jobs. Check out these 2020 options.

John Deere Gator

The HPX615E was built for farm and construction work. This UTV comes standard with four-wheel drive, a pickup-style tailgate, and real dumping cargo box with 16.4 cubic feet and 1,000 pounds of storage capacity.
www.deere.com

Bobcat UV34

The gas-powered UV34 features a 900-watt stator for use with a snow blade and other electric-powered accessories. The cargo box, constructed of a composite interior, handles up to 1,250 pounds and 15.6 cubic feet of materials or supplies. The UV34 features an increased tow rating, improved ground clearance, all-wheel drive and service access. A diesel version is also available.
www.bobcat.com

Polaris Ranger 1000

This new UTV model offers more usable low-end grunt for towing and hauling heavy loads on your horse farm. It can tow up to 2,500 pounds and carry 1,000 pounds in the cargo bed. Other features include a more rigid chassis and a total of 18.4 gallons of interior storage space.
www.polaris.com

Intimidator Classic Series

Power options include a 750-cubic-centimeter Kohler gas engine (cargo bed capacity: 1,200 pounds; towing: 2,100 pounds); a 48-volt brushless electric (cargo bed capacity: 700 pounds; towing: 1,500 pounds) or a 1,000-cubic-centimeter Kohler diesel engine (cargo bed capacity: 1,200 pounds; towing: 2,100 pounds). Other key features include bench seats for up to three adult passengers and a full-size bed.
www.intimidatorutv.com

Mahindra Retriever 750

The all-new Retriever comes in single-row, crew and long-bed models in gas and diesel powertrains. Towing capacity is 2,100 pounds; cargo capacity, 1,200 pounds.
www.mahindrausa.com

Kubota Sidekick RTV-XG850

The gas-powered Sidekick can travel up to 40 miles per hour. The bed can move 1,000 pounds and tow up to 2,000 pounds on flat terrain.
www.kubotausa.com

KIOTI K9

The KIOTI K9 2400 and K9 2440 offer a diesel engine with top ground speed of 31 miles per hour. The K9 2400, pictured here, features an all-metal bed, with a 1,102-pound bed capacity, a standard spray-in liner and an optional hydraulic dump kit. All K9 models feature a towing capacity of 1,300 pounds and a payload capacity of 1,750½ pounds, allowing for a full range of towing and hauling capabilities.
www.kioti.com

This article about ATV and UTV options for horse farms appeared in the November/December 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Modern-Day Workhorses: All About UTVs and ATVs for the Horse Farm appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Electric fencing also makes an excellent secondary barrier across other types of fencing. Furthermore, it’s a good choice for small-scale horsekeeping, because it allows you to fence in a large area for relatively low cost compared to other types of fencing. But it’s difficult to maintain or safely use your electric fence if you don’t know how it actually works. To help out with that, let’s dig into some electric fencing details.

Electric Horse Fence ABCs

Some basic knowledge of electricity will help you better understand your fence. Don’t worry—it’s pretty easy, even if you know nothing in advance. This is because an electric fence is an example of a simple circuit.

All of the fence lines are positive, and all of the ground around the pasture is negative. It’s just like a flashlight with the switch off—the positive and negative aren’t touching each other, so the circuit is broken and nothing happens. To complete the circuit, we need something electrically conductive to touch both the fence and the ground at the same time and connect them.

When an electrically conductive body (remember, you’re about 60 percent water and your horse is about 70 percent), connects the fence (positive) to the ground (negative) and becomes the missing link between the two, it successfully completes the circuit. In a real sense, you’ve just become the on/off switch in the flashlight!

For your horse, that harmless-yet-attention-getting snap of electricity is hopefully enough to remind him that he shouldn’t graze too close to the fence or try to escape from it. For you, it’s a reminder that shortcuts across the pasture aren’t worth the trouble.

By the way, this is why birds can sit on top of electric fence wires with impunity—they’re not touching the ground, so they don’t complete the circuit and don’t get shocked.

Shorts

The positive electricity in your fence always “wants” to get back to the negative by th

e fastest route possible. This can be a problem if tall grass or weeds grow up along the fence—they conduct electricity somewhat and can provide a means for the positive electricity to escape to the negative ground and thus weaken the power of your fence.

This is called a short, because the electricity is taking a shorter route home than it was supposed to. If possible, keep weeds trimmed down along the fence line.

Ground, Ground, Ground

Is your electric fence not zapping strongly enough? It’s probably not grounded well enough. Those copper rods are a nuisance to drive into the ground (done with a T-post driver), but they’re really important for making your fence work.

The number you’ll need depends on a lot of things: the power of your charger, the type of soil you have, and the size of your pasture. There isn’t a perfect number of rods to use—the more you install (within reason), the better your fence should work.

Many problems with weak shocks can be solved this way. Your fence manual will give you a good indication of the number of rods to start with.

Or, Take the Ground Along

In dry locations (common in the western U.S.), there might not be enough moisture in the ground to carry the electricity, no matter how many rods are used. This can also occur in winter with deep snow, or in rocky soil.

In these instances, it’s common to connect one or more of the fence wires to the negative terminal rather than the positive. If a horse contacts multiple wires at once, he’ll likely touch a negative and positive fence strand at the same time and receive a shock that way. This is known as a “hot/ground” fence. You can also use a system like this to add more ground rods on the other side of the pasture.

Insulators

You don’t want the posts or gates of your electric horse fencing system to carry a charge. The posts are in the ground, so they would cause a short, and you obviously don’t want to get shocked when you touch a gate.

The solution is to use insulators, which are plastic or porcelain hooks or rollers that hold the fence wires in place. These materials don’t conduct electricity, so they keep the power on the fence where it belongs, and off of the posts and gates.

Insulators are one of the weaker links in your electric fence system and are prone to breakage. Keep an eye on them and replace as needed. Always keep a bag of new insulators on hand for this purpose.

Three Types of Electric ◆ Tape: Tape fencing is often used for temporary setups, such as a camping trip, or for rotational grazing. It makes a very visible boundary for horses, which is nice, but it’s perhaps less aesthetically beautiful than other types of fencing. Tape doesn’t hold up very well in rough weather like wind and snow, as it begins sagging quickly. ◆ Wire: Plain, bare-wire fencing is not as visible and may not break easily if a horse becomes tangled in it, so you’ll want to do your research to see if it makes sense for your farm. It can be used as the hot wire along a wooden fence, and it lasts a long time. ◆ Rope/braid: Various types of highly visible polymer or braided rope fencing are available, and these are quite popular with horse owners. The rope is durable enough to be used as a permanent setup, and visible enough to act as a visual boundary for your horse.

Power Sources

Electric horse fences must be powered only by safe fence energizers.

◆ The charger doesn’t put out electricity constantly—it does it in short pulses. This creates the audible “tick, tick” sound.

◆ Some chargers plug into an ordinary household AC outlet. These devices take the powerful current from your farm’s electric service and reduce it down to a mild shock that, while certainly attention-getting, causes no harmful or lasting effects.

◆ Other charges are solar-powered. A small solar panel collects electricity and stores it in a battery. While usually weaker than AC-powered chargers, solar chargers are perfect for remote pastures where the nearest electrical outlet is far away.

◆ A third variety of charger contains just a battery (no solar panel) that powers the fence and needs to be recharged periodically.

Lightning Protection

If lightning strikes near your electric fence, some of the power may ride along your fence wires, trying to get to the grounding rods. To get there, the lightning has to go through your fence charger—probably with damaging results.

To guard against this, you can install a lightning protector, kind of like a home surge protector, on your charger. You can also attach lightning arrestors to the corners of your pasture; these will help lightning get back to the ground before it reaches your charger. If there’s plenty of warning before the storm hits, you could always detach the charger from the fence, assuming there are no horses in it.

Tension

Follow the instructions for your particular type of electric horse fencing to achieve the proper tension. In general, rope and braided types of electric fence are intended to stretch and bounce to some extent, like a boxing ring.

Don’t put your fence posts too close together, or you’ll lose this effect. But you also don’t want the lines too loose, because sagging leads to decreased electric conductivity. (Plus, it looks bad!)

Testers

Finally, make sure your fence is working properly by using a fence tester. These devices not only show you how strong the charge is at various locations around the pasture, they are also invaluable in helping you track down problems with the fence.

Shorts and broken spots in the wire can be located easily with a tester. It’s one of the best tools for your fencing toolbox.

Ready to start building? With a bit of planning and the right tools, you can enclose a fairly large area with electric fencing in only a few days.

This article about electric fencing appeared in the September 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post It’s Electric: All About Electric Horse Fencing appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Tarter Round Bale Feeder

Prioritizing safety, the spacing prevents horses from getting a hoof stuck in the feeder, while the smooth, rounded top loops discourage excessive mane rubbing. The loop legs are designed to not sink into soft surfaces. This feeder also prevents waste through the hay-saver panel and is designed to withstand even the harshest of outdoor environments. $349.99; www.ruralking.com

Haygain HG600

Haygain steamers are designed to kill mold, fungal spores, yeast, and bacteria often found in hay, creating a palatable meal that enhances digestibility and nutrition. The Haygain HG600 steamer also triples the water content of the hay for added hydration. Steaming reduces airborne dust by nearly 98%, reducing a horse’s susceptibility to inflammatory airway disease by 65%. $1,749.00; www.haygain.us

Rolling Bale Bag

This nylon rolling bale bag will allow you to easily transport and store your hay, protecting it from debris like dust and dirt. This bag is water-resistant and provides ventilation and breathability for your hay. Four wheels and sturdy handles make moving even large bales easy. Monogramming available. $69.95 (monogram $8.95 extra); www.doversaddlery.com

Kensington Slow-Feed Hay Bag

Made exclusively for SmartPak, this hay bag features 1.5-inch netting to slow consumption and is padded by Textilene on the sides and bottom to prevent unnecessary hay waste. Has adjustable/detachable straps and closeable lid. $69.99-$79.99 depending on size; www.smartpakequine.com

Nylon Hay and Grain Portable Feeder

This on-the-road portable feeder is made of 600-denier nylon, adjustable closer straps, and large lid opening for easy-to-manage filling. Even if you choose not to use a bottom tray for grain, this bag is effective in preventing your horse’s hay from being trampled on the ground. $28.49; www.statelinetack.com

Corner Feeder

This three-in-one stall corner feeder offers three sections: one large center cavity for hay, and two smaller side cavities for salt and grain. This feeder is designed to reside on the ground so that your horse can eat naturally with his head down in a comfortable grazing position. $575.95-$1,159.95 depending on size; www.smartpakequine.com

Smart Cart

Designed to stand up to heavy use in a barn or boarding facility, the polyethylene pan, powder-coated metals, and aluminum alloy frame fight barn acids in harsh environments. This Smart Cart is easy to maneuver, with a well-balanced design and wheels. $439.95-$539.95 depending on size; www.smartpakequine.com

This article about hay accessories for horses appeared in the July 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Hay Accessories for Horses: Make Feeding Your Horses Easier appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

One stable chore that should be done regularly is cleaning and disinfecting the containers from which a horse eats and drinks. Completing this task so your horse has clean feed equipment is more than a quick rinse under the water hydrant; it involves several critical steps and an understanding of what products to use for each step.

Sandra Norman, DVM, a veterinarian and the director of Companion Animal and Equine at the Indiana State Board of Animal Health, offers advice on how often to clean buckets, feed tubs, water tanks, hay nets, and the like. “Cleaning and disinfecting procedures and frequency depend on the farm and activity,” says Norman. “Buckets, feed tubs, and other often-used items should be cleaned once or twice daily. Water tanks should be dumped at least once a week and more often in mosquito season, as that is a common place for mosquito larvae to develop. If equipment is used by multiple horses and owners, those items should be cleaned between horses.

“As feed is added to hay nets, new potential contamination is added,” continues Norman. “Rinsing hay nets between hay additions can help, especially if disease has been on the farm previously. Another common example of a biosecurity hazard is the end of the hose going from bucket to bucket of water—it can spread Streptococcus bacteria that cause strangles.”

Why Clean Horse Feed Equipment?

There are many reasons for taking the time to clean buckets, feed tubs, water tanks, hay nets, feed scoops and feed storage bins, etc. These include:

◆ Improved general horse health: Clean food and water containers promote healthy respiratory and digestive systems.
◆ Preventing the spread of diseases: Many diseases can spread through saliva, mucous from coughing and sneezing, nasal discharge, and drainage from abscesses. These bodily fluids can all rapidly spread diseases, such as strangles, equine influenza, and equine herpesvirus.
◆ Increasing water consumption: If a water bucket or tank has clean, fresh water in it, horses will drink better, which can decrease the risk of dehydration and colic episodes.
◆ Pest and mold control: Dirty feed tubs are also breeding grounds for mold and flies and an invitation for mice and rats to come calling.
◆ Asthetics and curb appeal: Things just look better if they are clean and neat, and that makes you feel better and presents your barn well to visitors and boarders.

Tools for the Chore

To get started with cleaning horse feed equipment, gather the following cleaning tools:

◆ Long rubber household cleaning gloves or nitrile gloves
◆ Safety glasses or goggles
◆ A bucket, clean plastic jug or wash tub of known capacity to mix cleaning and disinfecting solutions
◆ A measuring cup and measuring spoons to measure the correct amount of disinfectant for the mix
◆ Scrub brushes of various sizes and shapes
◆ Clean rags or towels
◆ A quart-sized spray bottle or water hose attachment for mixing and applying garden fertilizer
◆ Dish detergent
◆ A disinfectant (chosen with the help of a veterinarian)
◆ A deep sink or hose attached to a water source (having hot and cold water is a plus, but cold water will do)

Choose a place to do the washing and rinsing carefully since chlorine bleach and other disinfectants can kill grass and other plants. And, all of the water used in the process will make mud, which is no fun to walk through, much less push a wheelbarrow through. So, choose somewhere where the washing process and runoff won’t cause issues, such as a gravel driveway or parking area, a concrete slab, or an asphalt driveway or out-of-way barn aisle.

Keep in mind that many of the disinfectants will cause bleached spots or stains on clothing, and the entire process is like going to a water park—you are going to get wet! Consider wearing a pair of coveralls or a rain slicker or old clothes. And, boots or muckers are useful to keep your feet dry. Wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your skin and eyes.

The biggest decision is which disinfectant to use. According to Norman, that choice really depends on the organisms (bacteria, viruses, fungi, molds) you are trying to kill and the surfaces you are cleaning. She adds that some pathogens are more resistant than others, and that although chlorine bleach can be effective against many common disease organisms, it is not effective against certain ones, such as equine herpesvirus-1 (EHV 1, also known as equine rhinopneumonitis) and some others.

In the case of a disease outbreak, she says a state veterinarian would direct barn managers and horse owners on which products would be most effective against the specific organisms in each case.

For routine cleaning your local veterinarian should be able to advise you on what products to use, and in some cases, they may need to assist you with ordering those products. A list of resources is at the end of this article, as well.

Laurent L. Couëtil, DVM, Ph.D., head of Large Animal Internal Medicine and the director of Equine Research Programs at the Purdue University College of Veterinary Medicine, says that in their large animal hospital, they use a strict cleaning and disinfecting regimen in between each patient since they are a treatment facility and often deal with sick animals.

After removing all of the bedding, the staff there do a thorough stall cleaning, first with detergent and rinsing and then applying bleach and rinsing again. After that they apply another disinfectant called Virex (a quaternary ammonium compound) and let that sit for 15 minutes, after which they rinse again. Finally, they finish with rinsing the floor drains and then filling them with disinfectant.

Proper Disinfection

For a boarding stable and family farm purposes, Couëtil offers his advice for routine cleaning of horse feed equipment. “At home, the first step is to remove organic matter by hosing down and scrubbing surfaces with detergent. Bleach is an excellent all-around disinfectant against many viruses, bacteria and fungi, but it does not work well if there is organic matter present (e.g. manure). Therefore, deep cleaning with abundant water hosing to remove organic matter is essential. Remember: The solution to pollution is dilution.

Couëtil stresses that label directions should be followed. “It is also important to use proper bleach dilution (10% or 1.5 cups per gallon of water),” he says. “Using undiluted bleach is very irritating to the eyes and respiratory tract and does not work better than diluted bleach.

“There are many other disinfectants available commercially, but it is very important to read the label to use the appropriate dilution and to determine if it is appropriate for the barn (and kills most common infectious agents),” continues Couëtil. “Deviating from the recommended dilution may result in decreased effectiveness. In other words, more is not better. I would advise against homemade disinfectants. There are lots of affordable commercial products that have been tested, and if properly used, are not toxic for people or animals.”

It should be mentioned that although vinegar and baking soda are great for removing odors and “freshening” buckets and feed tubs, neither is particularly good at killing disease organisms. So, reserve these kitchen staples for odor-eating and using as safe, non-toxic scrubs. Vinegar is an effective lime scale remover if you are dealing with hard water marks.

Safety Note: Never mix cleaning products (dish detergent or ammonia) with disinfecting products, such as chlorine bleach or name-brand disinfectants, since combining the two can create toxic gases, which can kill you or damage your lungs.

A helpful list of disinfectants, noting what pathogens they are effective against, is available on the Equine Disease Communication Center’s website. And, an information-filled downloadable pdf called “Disinfection 101” is also available.

Cleaning vs. Disinfecting

Understanding that “cleaning” and “disinfecting” are actually two different steps in the process is key. Cleaning is using a detergent (a cleaner that “emulsifies” organic matter, such as horse manure, soil, bird droppings, mold, etc.) to make it easier to remove that dirt and grime from a surface. Disinfecting involves applying a chemical cleaner to kill bacteria, viruses, fungi and/or molds.

Some surfaces are much easier to clean and disinfect than others. Non-porous materials like concrete, glass, metal and plastic are much easier to rid of dirt and germs effectively, while porous surfaces, such as wood are much more difficult to clean and disinfect.

Step-By-Step Cleaning and Disinfecting Process

1. Line up all supplies and tools, and think through the process of cleaning your horse feed equipment ahead of time.
2. Put on protective gear—gloves, safety glasses, overalls or old clothes, boots, etc.
3. If an item is excessively dirty or has caked on mud or manure, pre-rinse before washing with detergent.
4. Mix detergent and water in a bucket or large wash basin or in a clean plastic jug to make a cleaning solution. An empty water trough can also make a handy washing sink, and the water trough will end up clean, too. Either submerge the items to be washed in the wash basin or pour the detergent water into or over the item to be cleaned while spreading around the suds with a scrub brush. Make sure to have enough sudsy liquid in the bottom of the bucket or feed tub being washed to splash or brush the solution up the sides and around the rim.
5. Apply “elbow grease” with a scrub brush, going over all surfaces with sudsy water, and reapplying more wash liquid as needed until all interior and exterior surfaces have been scrubbed well.
6. Rinse with plain water.
7. Then examine the item to see if it is clean. Reapply detergent and scrub and rinse again, if needed, to remove any additional dirt and grime.
8. Mix the disinfectant (carefully chosen for the task) with water in the prescribed amount. Mix new disinfectant solution each time you clean, since it may lose effectiveness once mixed with water and after sitting for a time; review package directions for more information.
9. Apply disinfectant solution to the object with a sprayer or sponge, and allow it to sit for around 10–15 minutes, making sure the surface stays wet with the solution (check package instructions to see how long it needs to stay on a surface).
10. When all looks sparkly clean, rinse the object well inside and out with water again.
11. Air dry the cleaned object before stowing or reusing.
12. Hay nets can be laundered in a washing machine and then be line dried or hand washed with detergent, rinsed, soaked in a disinfectant solution, rinsed again and hung to dry.

More Barn Clean-Up Notes

Buckets, feed tubs, water troughs, feed scoops, wheelbarrows, feed carts, and barn tools are all made of non-porous materials. They can all be washed and disinfected using the above steps. Remember to apply a light coating of WD40, or similar product, to the metal parts of barn tools to prevent rust if they are going to be stored for a long period of time.

Wooden stall walls and dirt/clay/sand/gravel stall floors are examples of porous materials that are much harder to clean, because dirt and disease organisms can hide in the cracks and crevices. Porous surfaces require different strategies. Stall walls require hands-on scrubbing, sometimes repeated multiple times, lots of rinsing, and perhaps a different type of disinfectant.

Porous stall floors should be scraped of all organic matter, ag lime applied, and air dried using fans and open windows and doors. On warm, sunny days, it always helps to let air flow through and sunshine into stalls and barn aisles since pathogens often need dark, moist environments to grow. When cleaning stalls, don’t forget to pull the stall mats and clean and disinfect them on both sides and let them, and the floor underneath, air dry before replacing.

Barn towels, leg wraps, horse blankets and stable sheets, and other “horse laundry,” should be shaken or vacuumed, possibly pre-rinsed and stains pre-treated, laundered, and machine-dried or air-dried according to manufacturer’s directions, repaired as necessary, and finally stored in tack trunks or plastic storage bags/tubs until needed again. If your goal is to disinfect often-touched surfaces in barn aisles and tack rooms, don’t forget cross-ties, light switches, water hydrant handles, and door and drawer handles.

Grooming tools and supplies should also be cleaned. Brushes, curries and combs, as well as plastic spray bottles, can be scrubbed in dish detergent water, then rinsed and soaked in disinfectant for at least 15 minutes, then rinsed again, and air dried.

The post How to Clean Buckets, Feed Tubs, Water Tanks and Hay Nets appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When it still feels like fall to you, your horses know better! And they start putting on their winter coats in response to the diminishing hours of daylight, whether there is a chill in the air, and this winter coat is a forerunner of the cold weather to come. Why not spend a few hours—or days—getting your stable and farm ready? It’s a lot more pleasant to do fall and winter farm prep work while the weather is still nice, and there are a few jobs that you won’t be able to do once there is snow on the ground. Here are a few things you’ll want to prepare.

Blankets: Do you blanket your horse in the winter? Perhaps you have an older horse, or one that is clipped or doesn’t naturally put on a very thick coat. Before winter hits is the time to sort through the shelves in the tack room and find these items that haven’t been in use since March.

You did remember to wash them before you stored them, right? If not, a quick trip to the laundromat might be in order. While you’re at it, clean and put away some of your summer horse equipment: fly sheets, fly spray, fly masks, fly traps…you get the idea.

Fence Repairs: The cooler temperatures of fall make for a nice time to work on fencing—a lot better than trying to fix a broken post or rail during a snowstorm! Take a walk (or a ride) around your fencing and make a list of any repairs that will be needed before the chill hits.

For electric fencing, remember that winter can cause grounding trouble (either from dry conditions or snow insulating the ground). You might want to add some ground rods in advance before the soil is frozen.

Watering Systems: Even if you live in a climate with warmer winters, don’t take chances with your barn’s water system. If there’s any risk that you’ll experience sub-freezing temperatures, make it a priority to shut off and drain the water from any exterior valves or hydrants that aren’t protected from the cold.

While heat tape or insulating foam might help for some isolated frosts and freezes, a burst pipe can be a big expense (and a big mess), so it might be wiser to not take the risk.

On the other hand, frostless hydrants or automatic waterers that safely drain water back down below the frostline after each use can stay in service all winter long—even in northern regions with long, harsh winters. You’ll also want to roll up, drain, and store your hoses.

Ice Prevention: You’ll also need a solid plan during fall farm prep for how you will keep your horses supplied with warm, ice-free water all winter. Your options will depend on your climate, but choices include heated electric buckets (these can work very well inside the stall), insulated water buckets, trough heaters, and the previously mentioned frostless automatic waterers or hydrants.

Also, prep for icy conditions around concrete walkways and doors by keeping some salt, animal-safe ice melt, and/or sand on hand.

Medications: While on the subject of things freezing, be sure to put away any equine medications or other items that might be ruined if they get too cold.

Tires: Cold weather has a surprising effect on tires—it condenses the air inside, which can cause the pressure (PSI) to drop significantly.

When the first cold snap hits, be sure to check the tire pressures on your tractor, ATV/UTV, truck, and horse trailer (if you plan to use it in the cold), as well as in tools like wheelbarrows, handcarts, et cetera. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve found myself pushing around a wheelbarrow that seems far too heavy, only to discover that cold temperatures had robbed the tires of their pressure.

Machinery: Any farm machinery that you don’t intend to use during the winter should be “put to bed” properly. It’s often wise to pull the battery and store it in a warm location; this will help the battery hold its charge in case you do need to operate the machine for some reason.

Try to avoid leaving the fuel tanks partially full, as the empty space in the tank can cause condensation to form. A good plan is to top off the fuel tank and then add a gasoline stabilizer to keep the fuel fresh until spring.

Another option is to completely drain the machine’s fuel system (tank, lines, carburetor) and let it sit empty all winter. Simply running the machine until it runs out of gas isn’t enough—you have to actually remove all fuel from the engine for this to work properly.

Pastures: Whether you have snow on the ground or not, winter can be hard on your horse’s pastures. With the grass dormant, overgrazing becomes a real possibility, thus damaging the grasses and promoting the growth of weeds the next summer.

Mud during the spring while the snow melts can also be problematic, particularly in smaller pastures. One option here is to limit your horses’ pasture access during the winter by temporarily fencing off a smaller sacrifice area where they can spend the cold months. Ideally, the footing of this area would be prepared ahead of time and raised higher than the surrounding ground with gravel (not sand), or even geotextile pads.

Also, in the big picture, it helps if the pastures slope slightly (2 percent or more) to promote drainage; sometimes professionally re-grading of the pasture is needed.

Stalls: Proper stable ventilation is one thing—drafts are another. While fresh air inside the stable is critical for equine respiratory health, you definitely don’t want your horse standing in a draft inside his stall.

During fall farm prep, double check your stalls for excessive air movement.

Snow removal: If your region experiences significant snowfall—frequent storms totaling a few inches or more—you’ll also need a snow-removal plan. Simply stashing a couple of snow shovels isn’t enough; in case of heavy snowfall, you’ll need to consider other options.

You can try a snowblower for clearing walking paths and areas in the pastures for your horses to walk, or you could try a snow blade on your ATV or tractor. You also may need a larger snow removal system capable of handling the stable’s driveway and parking areas.

Finally, be sure to take a walk around your entire property prior to the first snowfall to clear paths of rocks, large sticks, or any other objects that might become buried and interfere with the snow removal process.

Once your winter preparation checklist is completed, you can rest easy when the first cold snap hits, knowing that you and your horses are ready to go.

This article about fall farm prep originally appeared in the November 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Read for tips on barn equipment maintenance.

While you may know exactly how to get yourself and your horse in shape and ready for springtime activities, there’s another area of barn life that requires your post-winter attention: your farm machines and barn equipment.

Whether it’s a small tractor, ATV, UTV, garden tractor, towing vehicle, or trailer, there’s a good chance that your barn equipment needs a little work and maintenance after sitting idle for several months. If this is the case, then get started with this handy list of tips.

Horse Trailer

Even though you may only use your horse trailer a handful of times during the year, it’s still important to make sure it’s safe and well-maintained as part of your barn equipment maintenance plan. Here are some of the main points to check.

Tires: Odds are the cold temperatures of winter (and the weeks of sitting unused) have caused the air pressure in your horse trailer tires to drop considerably, so a basic check of the PSI of each one is in order. Consult your trailer’s manual or information labels for the exact PSI settings required, and then use an air compressor or inflator to top off each tire. While you’re at it, visually inspect each tire for cracks and general wear. Even if your horse trailer doesn’t get a lot of mileage each year, the very act of sitting unused can cause sidewall cracking; this is especially true if the trailer sits in direct sunlight. Also check tread depth to make sure the tires still have proper traction.

Lights: Brake lights, turn signals, running lights—all of these need to be checked and in working order long before you leave the driveway, with any non-working lights replaced. Now is also a good a time to double-check the wiring that connects your trailer to the tow vehicle. And don’t forget about those handy little interior lights that make working after dark so much easier.

Brakes: Horse trailers are heavy—especially when filled with several thousand pounds of horses! Therefore, working trailer brakes are a safety essential, since the brakes on the towing vehicle aren’t sufficient for such a large load. If you’re unsure of how to check brakes, have a professional inspect them.

Breakaway chains: In the unlikely event that your horse trailer was to come loose from the hitch, the breakaway chains ensure that the trailer remains connected to the frame of the vehicle. Needless to say, keeping these chains in good condition is very important, so give the chains and their connections a once-over prior to hitting the road.

Breakaway battery: In the very unlikely event that both your trailer hitch and the breakaway chains were to fail simultaneously, the breakaway battery would instantly activate the trailer’s built-in brakes. However, breakaway batteries need maintenance, too, so follow the instructions in your trailer’s manual.

Floor boards: Before hitting the road for a busy season of hauling to shows or trail rides, pull the rubber mats off the trailer floor and give the floorboards a thorough inspection for wear or cracks. Boards need to be sturdy and free of rot to support a horse’s weight. This is also a great time to clean under the mats.

License plate: If your trailer hasn’t been in use for a while, the license plate (or sticker) might be expired, so check before driving anywhere.

Clean up: Even if you put the trailer away clean, odds are that bits of leaves and debris have cluttered up the trailer over the winter, so pulling it out into the sunshine for a wash is probably a good idea. You can also wax the trailer to help protect it from rust.

Tractors, Lawn Tractors, ATVs, and UTVs

Small machines might seem simple, but there are a surprising number of maintenance points that need to be checked before these machines are ready to go for the year. Luckily, most of these tasks are pretty simple and within the range of the average DIYer.

Battery: If the winter was long and cold and you left the battery in the machine, don’t be surprised if it doesn’t have enough power to start the engine. No worries—throwing it on a charger for a few hours should get it ready to go.

Fuel filters: No matter how careful you are during refueling, sediments still slowly find a way into your machine’s fuel system where they can build up in fuel lines or carburetors. The engine’s fuel filter helps prevent this, but it needs replacing now and then; spring is a good time.

Air filters: Farm and stable work can be dusty, but your tractor’s engine needs plenty of clean air to do its job properly; the air filters help catch contaminants before they can reach the engine. Your air filter may need to be cleaned or changed several times throughout the year, depending on the environmental conditions it’s used in, but starting off with a fresh filter in the spring is a good idea. ATVs and UTVs are particularly prone to dust problems due to the types of environments they often run in.

Spark plugs: Is your small machine difficult to start? Does it backfire occasionally? Then try swapping out those old spark plugs for a fresh set—it’s inexpensive, easy to do, and in many cases a simple fix for this common problem.

Lubrication: Nothing dries up grease fittings on a machine like an idle winter season in the shed. Greasing all necessary fittings is a prime springtime task.

Coolant: These machines work hard, and they get hot doing it. Be sure to check (and possibly change) the coolant in your engine before doing any jobs.

Engine oil: Admit it—you didn’t change the oil last year before putting the machine away, did you? No problem—just be sure to do this critical task now before the busy season starts. Put on a new oil filter as well, and then follow the timeline given in your machine’s manual for checking and changing the oil throughout the year.

Hydraulic/transmission oil: Check your machine’s manual to see if changing these oils (they’re likely the same thing) is an annual task. If so, go ahead and do it now. Otherwise, just perform a check to be sure that the level is at the right mark.

Lawnmower blades: Mowing is essential for keeping the stable areas and property looking great, so make sure to sharpen the lawnmower blades in the spring so that the cut is smooth and even.

ATV/UTV drive chains or belts: Check the chain or belt for wear and replace if needed, and for ATV users, keep the chain properly lubricated throughout the year.

Daniel Johnson is a freelance writer and professional photographer. He’s the author of several books, including How to Raise Horses: Everything You Need to Know (Voyageur Press, 2014). Dan’s barn is home to Summer, a Welsh/TB cross, Orion, a Welsh Cob, and Mati and Amos, both Welsh Mountain Ponies. You can view Dan’s photography work at www.foxhillphoto.com.

This article about barn equipment maintenance originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Barn Equipment Tune-up appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Kioti CK27 – Click for full-sized image

KIOTI CK27

The KIOTI CK27 is a smaller yet well-powered tractor that offers great maneuverability and fuel economy.  It is available with a choice of either hydrostatic or synchro shuttle transmission for a wide range of applications.  The machine is powered by a 28 hp engine that develops up to 21.7 hp PTO horsepower.  A CAT I three-point hitch is standard.  A wide range of attachments and implements are available.  This quality tractor is covered by KIOTI’s industry-leading four-year, full fleet warranty.  For more information, visit www.KIOTI.com or call toll free 1-877-GO-KIOTI.

McCormick CTJ – Click for full-sized image

McCormick CTJ

The McCormick CT Series of compact tractors features eight models ranging from 28 to 57 HP. Standard features on the McCormick CT Series tractors include adjustable steering wheel, cruise control, independent, electro-hydraulic power take-off (PTO) and a highly-responsive hydraulic system for operation of attachments. The CTJ series of sub-compact tractors features 23-27 HP with 18.5-21.5 PTO. You expect nothing less, and McCormick continues to deliver after more than 175 years. McCormick designs and builds its tractors to the highest standards to help make certain your compact tractor will provide years of exceptional performance. The extensive dealer network is handpicked to provide unsurpassed support before and after the sale. Learn more at www.mccormickusa.com

Cub Cadet Sc2450 – Click for full-sized image

Cub Cadet Yanmar Sc2450

Cub Cadet Yanmar is expanding its line of Sc Series sub-compact tractors with the introduction of its 24 HP Sc2450. The all new Sc2450 combines all of the innovations found on the Sc2400 with the addition of an integrated backhoe and loader. It’s powered by a 3-cylinder, liquid cooled, 24 HP Yanmar diesel engine and offers big tractor features like CCY’s patented Shift-On-The-Go® technology, dual hydraulic pumps for smooth, precise operation along with an integrated backhoe, float control and easy-to-use 4-point mounting system. The Sc2450 is the perfect product for a variety of professionals and can handle anything from trenching and grading to light excavation, landscaping and lawn care. For more information on the Sc2450 or any of the products offered by Cub Cadet Yanmar visit: www.CubCadetYanmar.com

Cub Cadet Sc2400 – Click for full-sized image

Cub Cadet Yanmar Sc2400

Designed for users wanting more power and versatility than a garden tractor, but not quite ready for a bigger compact utility tractor, the Sc2400 solves the problem. Powered by a 24 HP Yanmar diesel engine, air enters at both a higher volume and greater pressure to create a better fuel mixture. The Sc2400 also features “Shift-On-The-Go” transmission allowing the user to change ranges without stopping the tractor while easy-to-use selectable cruise control allows the user to set the ground speed as needed. Additionally, the Sc2400 features a two-pump assembly to result in on-demand power that doesn’t back down while running the tractor and implements at the same time. For more information on the Sc2400 visit: www.CubCadetYanmar.com

TYM T293 – Click for full-sized image

TYM T293

Protecting yourself from the elements while working outside has always been a task. TYM’s T293 with the industry’s first factory production cab will make your working environment comfortable no matter what the condition are like outside. The cab features two vent heater, interior light, removable side doors, wipers, and three working lights. The optional cab is available for T233, T273, and T293 models. Contact your TYM dealer today or visit tym-tractors.com to find your closest dealer.

Compact Tractors (30-40 HP)

TYM T353 – Click for full-sized image

TYM T353

TYM’s T353 and T353HST models feature a 35 horsepower four cylinder Mitsubishi engine. Dual dry air cleaner, excellent turning radius, independent PTO and substantial weight to offer maximum traction. Like all of TYM’s tractors, the T353 and T353 HST is backed by our 5 year warranty. Contact your TYM dealer today or visit tym-tractors.com to find your closest dealer.

Cub Cadet Sx3100 – Click for full-sized image

Cub Cadet Yanmar Sx3100

Cub Cadet Yanmar is offering users a premium experience with high performance features and an innovative design on their all new Sx3100 compact tractor. Perfect for everything from light construction and nursery work to routine maintenance and lawn care, the Sx3100 features a drive-over Select Cut System™ mowing deck, curved boom backhoe and loader and a powerful, 31.2 HP direct-injection Yanmar diesel engine. For increased efficiency, the Sx3100’s drive-over deck is designed to work in harmony with the backhoe sub-frame allowing for quick and easy installation. The Sx3100 also features an ergonomic design, an open operator station and a two-range hydrostatic transmission making it perfect for new users and the seasoned veteran alike. For more information on the Sx3100 or on any of the products offered by Cub Cadet Yanmar visit: www.CubCadetYanmar.com.

John Deere 3038E – Click for full-sized image

John Deere Model 3038E

The John Deere model 3038E was designed for residential property owners who seek a quality compact tractor with basic features to tackle routine jobs with ease.  This mid-size chassis tractor features a 37.1 hp Yanmar diesel engine with hydrostatic drive transmission and Twin-Touch™ pedals, making it the perfect choice for moving loose materials, grading or scraping driveways, pasture mowing and planting food plots. Visit deere.com

Compact Tractors (Over 40 HP)

Kioti DK90 – Click for full-sized image

KIOTI DK90

The KIOTI DK90 is currently the largest tractor in the KIOTI series, offering a powerful 90 horsepower engine, fully synchronized shuttle transmission with 16 forward and 16 reverse gears and a PTO horsepower of 78 hp @ 540 rpm.  Well suited for all the big jobs, the machine is great for lifting, towing, digging and tilling applications.  A wide range of attachments and implements are available.  And the DK90 is covered by KIOTI’s popular four-year, full fleet warranty.  For more information, visit www.KIOTI.com or call toll free 1-877-GO-KIOTI.

Kioti DK45 – Click for full-sized image

KIOTI DK45

The KIOTI DK45 is the right sized tractor for a wide range of hobby and horse farm applications.  It is available with a choice of hydrostatic or synchro shuttle transmissions depending on its primary applications.  The machine is powered by a 45 hp Daedong engine that offers up to 38 PTO horsepower.  A CAT I three-point hitch is standard.  A wide range of attachments and implements are available.  The machine is covered by KIOTI’s best-in-the-industry four-year, full fleet warranty.  For more information, visit www.KIOTI.com or call toll free 1-877-GO-KIOTI.

John Deere 4105 – Click for full-sized image

John Deere Model 4105

John Deere Model 4105 – The John Deere 4105 Compact Utility Tractor is a multifunctional, large-chassis tractor ideal for loading, mowing, backhoe work and other rear implement work. This model features a hydrostatic transmission providing unparalleled flexibility and control – there’s no clutching or shifting required, so you can change direction on a dime. Perfect for loading, mowing and backhoe work. For more information or to find a dealer, visit deere.com

McCormick CTU – Click for full-sized image

McCormick CT Series

The McCormick CT Series of compact tractors features eight models ranging from 28 to 57 HP. Standard features on the McCormick CT Series tractors include adjustable steering wheel, cruise control, independent, electro-hydraulic power take-off (PTO) and a highly-responsive hydraulic system for operation of attachments. The CTU is ideal for heavier farm work, featuring 43-57 HP and 38-50 PTO. You expect nothing less, and McCormick continues to deliver after more than 175 years. We design and build our tractors to the highest standards to help make certain your McCormick compact tractor will provide years of exceptional performance. Our extensive dealer network is handpicked to provide unsurpassed support before and after the sale. Learn more at www.mccormickusa.com

Tractor Attachments

John Deere – 305 Loader – Click for full-sized image

John Deere 305 Loader

The model 305 Loader is compatible with the 3032E, and 3038E Tractors and features a Quik-change attachment carrier allowing for fast and easy removal/mounting of attachments without tools. Great for transporting feed, rock, gravel, sand, soil and so on. For more information or to find a dealer, visit deere.com

Frontier AB 13 Series Bale Spears

Frontier AB13 Series Bale Spears

The AB13 Series Bale Spears feature hardened steel, replaceable tines and are equipped with a Quick-Change or Global, and Quick-Attach attaching system. These systems save time and allow easy attachment for the operator. It also features a tubular design making it extremely strong and durable. Visit deere.com

John Deere 72D AutoConnect Mower – Click for full-sized image

John Deere 72D AutoConnect™ Mower

The next generation in ease-of-use, mid-mount mower attachment technology. The AutoConnect feature automatically connects the mower deck to the tractor and hooks up the difficult-to-reach PTO shaft simply by driving over the top of the mower. This means consumers can install their mower deck in seconds without leaving the tractor seat, virtually eliminating all frustration typically associated with this task. Visit deere.com

The post Compact Tractor Buyers’ Guide appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A few years back, I invested in a brand-new “lady tractor” for my farm. I call it a lady tractor because it’s a sub-compact tractor and at 16.7 PTO horsepower, it’s the perfect size for me and my farm. Not too big. Not too small. I use it for mowing grass (it has a belly mower) and for dragging my arena and fields. It’s wonderful and I couldn’t live without it.

Over the past six years, I’ve bumped my little orange tractor into more fence posts than I can count and it has a few dents. But it still runs well, and I credit this fact to the regular, but let’s face it, minimal, maintenance I give it. Here are a few tips that will hopefully help your tractor take a licking and keep on ticking.

Check and change the oil regularly. Read the manual to find out how often your tractor’s manufacturer recommends you do it. It’s not that hard! My tractor just requires a wrench to turn the plug and a shallow pan to catch the oil. Run the tractor for a few minutes to heat the oil so it’s thinner and flows out of the hole more easily. Screw the plug back in and add fresh oil. The manual should tell you what kind of oil to use.

If your tractor has filters, replace them regularly or if they are washable, wash them. The manual will show you where they are.

Just like a car, your tractor will have coolant in it. Check regularly to make sure your tractor’s coolant levels are correct. Believe me, you don’t want your tractor to overheat and damage the engine. Fixing that can be expensive.

Keep fresh fuel in your tractor. Old diesel fuel can cause lots of black, smelly exhaust smoke and you may have insufficient engine power. Use fresh fuel when possible.

Keep the air screen in front of the engine clear. On my tractor, the screen is in front of my knees. If this screen gets clogged with leaves or dust, your engine could overheat. I just remove debris with a brush I keep in the barn.

After mowing grass, I always hose off the underside of the tractor, making sure to get the blades as clean as possible. Manure and grass can dry on the blades and lumpy blades cut badly. You might need a pressure washer for this as a normal hose may not have enough power to clean the blades adequately.

I usually take my tractor to the dealer every 100 hours of use for a proper going over. I can’t sharpen or replace the blades, so I let a mechanic take care of this. Having sharp blades is a must so I leave it to the pros. I also let them take care of the transmission/hydraulic oil because I haven’t taken the time to find out how and where you change it.

I drive my tractor into my slant load, stock trailer and drive it to the tractor dealership. Doing this probably isn’t the best thing for my trailer’s ramp or hinges, but sometimes we do things we probably shouldn’t. Most dealerships have flat-bed trailers you can borrow to transport your tractor and most will collect your tractor for a fee.

Although it’s easy to get carried away while mowing, try your best to avoid driving over rocks. Rocks can bend your mower’s blades and then it won’t mow as efficiently. You’ll soon notice that your front lawn or your field looks raggedy and uneven after you’ve mowed it. Time to get the blades sharpened!

Also, pay attention to fence posts to your right or left. I’m constantly bashing the mower deck into posts and knocking off and losing the little wheels that keep the deck off the ground. Those cute little wheels are more expensive than you’d think, so be attentive.

And finally, slow down. Even though you want to get the mowing job done quickly, slow down. I find that when I go super fast on my tractor, especially over rutted and uneven ground, it bumps around more and screws loosen, things fall off or break and I have to replace items like the very expensive rear lifting bar (twice in two months!)

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