While many experts agree that fleas are an uncommon parasite for horses, ticks can be prevalent and potentially present a danger to your horse’s health.

Ticks are becoming an increasingly significant problem for horse owners in many areas of the country. These parasites can invade your pasture, but they also hang out in places you might routinely ride, such as cool, shady areas near creek beds or among tall grass where they wait to hitch a ride.

Protect your equine by watching for signs of flea or tick problems and treating issues right away or preventing them altogether.

How Common Are Tick Infestations with Horses?

“Horses aren’t the preferred hosts for fleas like dogs, cats and foxes are,” says Laura Stern, DVM, DABVT, director of training and quality assurance for the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. “The reason horses aren’t commonly affected by fleas, but do get ticks, is simple: They’re in places where they commonly encounter ticks, but not fleas. Fleas like dark areas, like dens. Those aren’t the places where horses like to be. However, ticks like long grass and wooded areas—places where horses are commonly found—making them a common target for ticks.”

“Fleas don’t like horses,” agrees Garrett Metcalf, DVM, DACVS-LA, an equine veterinarian at Pine Ridge Equine Hospital in Glenpool, Okla. “Fleas are species-specific, and horses aren’t a suitable host for fleas, so it’s rare to have fleas on horses. Ticks are a common problem and rather good at transmitting diseases to horses.”

Signs of a Tick Problem with Your Horse

Horse owners are very protective of their animals, and typically attuned to changes in their behavior. However, a tick’s small size makes it easier for them to hide, so it’s essential to be aware of signs you might blame on something else that could indicate a tick issue.

The first step is to stay alert and physically look for ticks on your horse’s body while being aware of any potentially serious side effects of a tick bite. Besides the actual tick body, Stern says to look for a raised, hard bump where a tick was feeding. She says you might see your horse rubbing a particular spot where a tick is or was, and experience hair loss due to excessive rubbing.

“If your horse has a severe tick infestation or if he seems weak, wobbly or has pale gums, contact your veterinarian immediately before trying to remove any ticks, as you may cause damage to the skin or stress the horse in his weakened condition,” she cautions.

Metcalf advises looking around the groin, head, and region under the tail where ticks often like to accumulate. He says that you might notice swelling in areas where ticks have bitten a horse and edema around the bite site.

“If a horse is head-shy while haltering, lethargic, or has a fever, and ticks are present on the horse, it would be best to have the horse examined by a veterinarian,” he says. “Ticks are a common [cause of] swelling and pain around the ears, and most tick-borne diseases will cause fever and lethargy as the main clinical signs.”

Health Hazards of Infestation

Ticks infected with serious diseases don’t usually transmit those pathogens immediately. Instead, they usually must feed on the host—namely your horse—for a while before disease transmission occurs. This delay in disease transition makes it extremely important to remove ticks as soon as possible.

While less critical issues such as itchiness, hair loss, poor hair coat and local irritation can occur, Stern stresses that more serious problems such as infection at the site of tick attachment, anemia from blood loss in severe cases, and tick-transmitted disease could occur.

“Ticks can transmit a number of diseases to horses, including Lyme disease, equine granulocytic anaplasmosis and equine piroplasmosis,” says Stern. “Rarely, we may also see tick paralysis. There’s typically a delay of 24 hours between when the ticks attach and when they can transmit diseases, which makes it very important to find them quickly and remove them before they have the chance to transmit any diseases.”

An Ounce of Prevention

Prevention is always preferable to treatment, which is true of fleas and ticks. If you can keep your stable and pasture free of these parasites, you avoid having to remove ticks from your horse and could prevent potentially serious problems.

Metcalf suggests using permethrin-based products, which he says are the best store-bought products to combat fleas or ticks on horses.

“It’s rather difficult to prevent ticks from getting onto horses,” he cautions. “Concentrated, topically applied permethrin products may be the best option at this time. Some of these products need to be applied every three weeks.

“Natural remedies aren’t very effective against reducing ticks on horses,” he continues. “Some essential oil recipes use geranium oil as a possible tick repellent. Physical barriers, such as fly boots, may help reduce ticks from getting onto the limbs of horses.”

Stern also touts various tick repellents and products that kill ticks. She says there are some sprays you can use before a ride and topical spot-on products that work longer for horses more consistently at risk of encountering ticks.

“You can use a repellent to help keep ticks off your horses,” says Stern. “Repellents often contain a pyrethroid insecticide, such as permethrin or cypermethrin. Repellents have the advantage of not requiring the ticks to bite and take a blood meal. Avermectins, such as moxidectin and ivermectin, can also kill ticks, but [the ticks] need to take a blood meal first.”

She cautions the importance of always reading the label of any flea and tick product you use to ensure it’s appropriate for use on horses.

“Some cattle products can cause significant toxicity in horses,” warns Stern. “[And] some products won’t be labeled for use on certain horses, especially foals under 3 months of age. Always apply per the labeled [instructions] to minimize the risk of side effects, as well. Your veterinarian can help you determine what product will be best, based on the risk of exposure to ticks, the risk of ticks carrying disease, and your horse’s lifestyle and health history.”

Other Remedies

Besides treating your horse, you should always pay attention to his surroundings. Stern says ticks are generally more of an issue outside of barns, so you don’t typically need tick control inside your barn.

“If fleas are present in the barn, it’s generally not an issue for horses,” she says. “But you can minimize risk by preventing wildlife from entering the barn and ensuring that cats and dogs who have access to the barn are treated with flea preventatives. Treating the environment may be needed for heavy flea infestations.”

One of the best all-natural ways of minimizing tick exposure is to keep horses out of areas that contain a lot of ticks. Of course, that isn’t always possible.

“Ticks are often found in tall grasses and wooded areas,” says Stern. “They dislike hot, sunny areas with no plant cover. An easy way to minimize the number of ticks your horses are exposed to is by mowing any tall grass, removing weeds, and preventing your horse from entering wooded areas or hanging around the boundaries between woods and pasture. Preventing wildlife, especially deer, from entering pastured areas is another important step you can take to decrease the number of ticks in your pasture.”

Metcalf also suggests using pasture insecticides to help reduce fleas or ticks in your pasture. He cautions that whenever a heavy amount of wildlife traffic is present, there’s more of a reservoir of future ticks or fleas to re-establish residency in the pasture.

Tick Removal Tips

Any time you’ve been out riding—or at least once a day if your horse is on pasture—you should check him for ticks. A visual inspection is an excellent first step, but using your fingers to feel around for small ticks that might not be easy to see is also important.

“Deer ticks that transmit Lyme disease only reach 3mm when fully grown and can be hard to see,” says Stern. “The most important areas to check your horse for ticks are the chest, belly, flanks, mane, tail and ears—places where the skin is thinner and ticks can more easily attach.”

Even if you take precautions such as using tick repellents and keeping your horse out of areas ticks might frequently hang out, your horse will inevitably pick up a tick or several during tick season. Stern cautions that there are a lot of myths about the best way to remove a tick from a horse.

“You don’t want to crush the tick, use a hot match, or apply something like baby oil to try to smother it,” she says. “Instead, put on a pair of gloves and take tweezers and grasp the head of the tick close to the site of attachment to the horse. Then, slowly pull the tick away at a 90-degree angle from the horse. This will allow you to remove the entire tick.

“After you remove the tick, wash the skin in the area where the tick was attached with a mild soap and then wash your hands,” Stern continues. “Ticks should be placed in a jar of isopropyl alcohol, which can be disposed of when full. If you notice that the head of the tick wasn’t removed from the horse, contact your veterinarian, as the site can become infected.”

Metcalf agrees that physically removing ticks from horses with your fingers or a hemostat-like instrument is a safe removal method. However, he says some owners might want to kill the ticks first with a permethrin spray, then use physical removal methods.

“Your veterinarian is your best source of information about preventing or controlling ticks,” adds Stern. “They have knowledge of which products work best in your area and the best control strategy, given your horses and your facility. Having preventative measures in place before you have an issue is best. Scheduling a visit with your vet in the late winter or spring is an ideal time to get a holistic tick-control program set up for your horses, but it’s never too late in the year to reach out and get an expert opinion from your vet.”

Ticks and Horses: Key Takeaway

Because ticks can transmit serious diseases, it’s crucial for horse owners to stay vigilant by regularly checking their horses for ticks and taking preventive measures to reduce exposure. By staying informed and taking action early, you can minimize the risk of tick infestations and ensure your horse remains healthy and comfortable.

This article about ticks with horses appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Risk of Ticks with Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Tiny creatures certainly have the ability to make our lives, as well as the lives of our horses, miserable. While we can never completely eliminate pests such as flies and parasites, we can do a lot to keep them at bay—especially when the weather starts getting warmer in the spring and we plan our spring horse care strategies. Let’s look more in-depth into the pests that plague our horses and what we can do to manage or eliminate them.

Pesky Flies

The flies that most horse owners deal with are the big four: stable flies, face flies, bot flies and horse flies. The best way to reduce the number of flies that annoy your horse is to make it hard for them to reproduce. Implementing fly-control methods in the spring will pay off come summer when fly populations are at their highest.

Knowing where these flies start their lives will help you put a stop to their reproductive cycle.

STABLE FLIES: These nasty greyish-black flies have a painful bite that they inflict on horses, most often on the legs. They lay their eggs in rotting vegetation, dirty bedding, manure and areas of urine.

FACE FLIES: These small, dark flies don’t bite, but instead feed on the moisture in the corners of a horse’s eyes, on the moist part of the horse’s nose and on open wounds. They lay their eggs in manure.

BOT FLIES: Unlike most other flies, bot flies do not bite or feed on the outside of the horse. Instead, they lay their eggs on the horse’s legs, shoulders or mouth with the intention of the horse swallowing the eggs.

Once inside the horse, the eggs hatch and the larvae burrow into the horse’s stomach, where they do damage for several months before passing out through the manure and continuing their life cycle.

HORSE FLIES: You can’t miss one of these flies when it lands on your horse. Horse flies are large with a black body and a white head. They prefer to leave their painful bite on the withers or rump and will easily draw blood.

Their breeding place of choice is damp soil near irrigation ditches, lakes and rivers.

Getting Fly-Free

Given the reality of how these pests live their lives, what can you do to minimize the number of flies that harass your horse? Plenty!

Here’s how to reduce pests at the barn.

MANAGE MANURE: It’s obvious that with the exception of the horse fly, the most common flies to bother horses spend their entire lives in the stable environment. Stable flies, face flies and bot flies all need manure to reproduce, with the stable fly also branching out into dirty bedding.

This is why frequent stall cleaning and manure removal is key when it comes to keeping flies to a minimum. Picking up and disposing of manure and soiled bedding every day is a must if you want to make your barn inhospitable to flies.

PHYSICAL PROTECTION: You can keep your property clean, but you don’t have much control over how your neighbors manage their manure. If you’re boarding your horse, you’ll discover that large numbers of horses make it a lot harder to control fly populations.

In both of these situations, you’ll need to provide your horse with physical protection from flies. Start by using a fly mask to keep face flies out of your horse’s eyes. A fly sheet for your horse’s body and fly wraps for his legs will keep insects from being able to reach his skin.

SPRAYS AND TRAPS: Repellent in the form of fly sprays, wipes and mists can also help keep flies off your horse. You can apply fly repellents topically to your horse daily or install an automatic misting system in your barn that will provide a dose of repellent at regular intervals.

Fly traps can also be helpful because they capture flies that are buzzing around, stopping them from annoying your horse and reproducing in your horse’s manure and bedding.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS: A natural way to help control fly populations is with beneficial insects that feed on fly larvae, killing the maggots before they turn into flies. These tiny wasps don’t bother horses, but they will dine on developing flies.

You can buy these fly parasites through mail-order services, placing them outside in your stabling area when they arrive each month. You’ll need to start adding fly parasites to your stable soon in order to head off the fly explosion that starts in the spring.

FEED-THROUGH FLY CONTROL: Equine feed supplements designed to keep fly eggs from hatching in manure can be helpful in keeping fly populations under control. These products work by disrupting the fly’s development cycle in the manure with the use of an insect growth regulator (IGR). The IGR passes through the horse’s system into the manure, where it prevents the fly from developing. Feed-through fly control works best if all horses on the property are given the product on a daily basis.

Spring Horse Care Against Internal Parasites

The other common creepy crawlies that can make life difficult for horses and their owners are worms. A handful of these internal parasites are a real nuisance and are prevalent among domestic equines. These pests enter the horse’s body through the mouth and complete their life cycle in manure. Infected horses can become very sick if worms are allowed to go unchecked.

The most common worms to affect horses are strongyles (large and small), roundworms, pinworms and tapeworms.

LARGE STRONGYLES: Large strongyles are only a half-inch long, but they can wreak havoc on a horse’s intestines. They can cause colic, as well as blood vessel and organ damage.

SMALL STRONGYLES: Small strongyles burrow into the intestines of the horse and cause damage to delicate tissues. They are very common in horses and can result in colic, diarrhea and weight loss.

ROUNDWORMS: These nasty worms can grow up to a foot in length. They live in the horse’s digestive tract and cause colic and poor condition. They are most common in young horses less than a year old. Older horses usually develop an immunity to roundworms.

PINWORMS: Pinworms are about 2 inches long and live in the horse’s rectum, where they may cause irritation and discharge. Horses infected with pinworms often rub their tails against fences and trees.

TAPEWORMS: You can help get rid of the worms in your horse’s body by using a dewormer every few months. These products are available in tack and feed stores, but should be given under the guidance of your veterinarian, because some worms are developing resistance to the most common dewormers. Your vet can help you rotate the different types of wormers to help prevent this.

Fecal egg testing involves having your horse’s manure tested every few months for parasite eggs. This technique is becoming the preferred method by many veterinarians for parasite control.

Because the weather is getting warm, spring is a great time to start your spring horse care strategies against parasites, as well as flies. A number of mail-order laboratories provide this service, which requires you to send a small manure sample for testing. The resulting fecal egg count helps determine if your horse has worms, and which species, so you can effectively treat the infection with an over-the-counter dewormer.

You can do a lot to help prevent worms from taking hold of your horse by maintaining good manure control at your stable. Pick up manure and soiled bedding frequently, and keep water troughs and feeders clean.

Starting good stable hygiene in your spring horse care plan is the best way to keep both flies and parasites under control throughout the year. Your horse will thank you for it.

This article on spring horse care on preventing parasites and flies appeared in the March 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

Further Reading on Spring Horse Care

• New Fly Products for Your Horse
• Understanding Fly Control Labels
• 7 Fly Control Myths
• April 2020 SmartPak SmartTip of the Month: Controlling Flies from all Angles
• Regional Parasite Control for Horses
• Why Dewormer Rotation is Over
• Spring Horse Care Checklist

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