Early Days of Horsepower

The first records of horses traveling any way other than on their own four feet dates to the late 18th and early 19th centuries in England, beginning with two racehorses. Pulled in an adapted wagon by one or two other horses, the Thoroughbreds were respectively transported for breeding purposes and to arrive well-rested at racetracks.

Most horses were not this lucky. However, as trains and the railway system developed, some horses experienced train travel for exceptionally long distances.

Horses continued to transport each other for decades. Some city fire departments had horse-drawn ambulances, used to haul injured horses to firehouses for veterinary care.

During World War I, more equine ambulances were created to transfer infantry horses from the battlegrounds to base hospitals with veterinarians. There were some vans with stalls in the back to haul war horses as well, helping to pave the way for motorized equine transport after the war. These early versions of trailers were made from wood and steel.

Many years passed with no major need for a horse trailer that closely resembles what we have today. Throughout the American Southwest, horses were still mainly considered livestock, and were necessary for ranch work.

If ranchers or cowboys needed to travel longer distances than their horses could comfortably ride, they loaded up their mounts in the back of pickup trucks. Horses were often tied to cattle racks, which were wooden or steel removable pickup truck inserts that kept livestock contained while driving.

Changing Times 

As the 20th century progressed, stock trailers entered the scene, replacing many cattle racks. Vehicles slowly became more capable of towing trailers as people experienced a greater need to transport goods and other livestock, like cattle and swine, over long distances.

The first stock trailers were primarily made from wood, but quickly switched to steel, since it held up better.

The Interstate Highways

When the Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956 was passed under Eisenhower, 41,000 miles of an efficient Interstate Highway System was constructed over a period of 10 years. Automotive transportation vastly improved, allowing safer and longer transport for people and animals.

At the same time, livestock travel via rail decreased, so increasingly powerful trucks were needed. Now horses could travel with greater ease, even if it was in a basic steel stock trailer.

From there, horses were ridden more for leisure than work, so equestrians everywhere started attending competitions or traveling to recreational trails. This change among the equine industry quickly led to a need for dedicated horse trailers that could haul to horse shows.

Some of the first trailer companies manufacturing specifically for horses were Stidham and Miley, which both started in the 1950s. Back then, trailers were manufactured out of steel and only had room for one to two horses in little bumper pulls. However, it was still very common to haul with stock trailers not necessarily designed for horses. 

New Materials

While steel dominated the trailer industry for generations, customers soon discovered how quickly this material rusts and deteriorates, ultimately putting horse safety at risk.

To solve this issue, 4-Star Trailers, Featherlite, and Exiss were some of the first companies to build aluminum horse trailers. Later other companies followed suit, such as Bloomer Trailers in 1998 and Cimarron Trailers in 2000.

According to Forrest Shifflet, President of 4-Star Trailers, starting from the company’s foundation in 1984, they found that aluminum weighs significantly less than steel, is virtually corrosion-free, and thus holds its value better.

Since this material is much lighter and does not experience rapid deterioration, trailers could grow in length and height as trucks also improved in towing capacity, which was particularly important with the rise of gooseneck trailers and slant-loads that granted more interior space.

Aluminum may seem like it would be an easy choice for customers when trailer shopping, but it took some time for the material to be fully accepted after steel was used for so many years. Some customers feared aluminum would rip or tear under stress.

“People were scared of aluminum at first,” says Anthony Gelvin, director of sales at Cimarron Trailers. “They weren’t sure it would hold up.”

Fortunately, improved structural engineering, manufacturing processes, aluminum alloys, and fiberglass combinations were soon used, further enhancing the quality of trailer shells.

Bigger and Better

According to Gelvin, steel gooseneck stock trailers were still around in the late 1980s, but the market’s comfort level with aluminum had improved. Companies could then place more focus on trailers specifically designed for horses, rather than fashioning horse trailers from stock trailers, like Shifflet says 4-Star did at first.

Perhaps the biggest change in horse trailers has been the addition of living quarters (LQ). Even though recreational vehicles (RVs) had existed for decades, it took until the mid to late 1990s for LQ trailers to become more widely available.

Previously, equestrians had little need to stay overnight at shows because competitions were usually one day long. If riders needed to sleep overnight, the back of their pickup with a cover over the bed was often sufficient. Also, since pickup trucks were very limited for a long time in how much they could tow, small trailers were the only options.

By the 1990s, more and more riders attended shows, including families. Gelvin believes that customers sought a better family experience, considering the costs of hotel rooms and the convenience of staying on the showgrounds.

Due to this need, the horse trailer industry had to catch up to RVs. Consumers were willing to pay higher trailer prices to account for complex electrical, plumbing, insulation, and structural work if it meant they would be comfortable and could save money in the long run.

Now that a higher number of people could travel farther and stay longer, weekend and week-long shows grew, calling for bigger and better trailers. Shifflet says that trailers used to measure 7 feet tall, and goosenecks were about 30 feet long.

Today, with LQs being the norm in many disciplines, the average gooseneck measures about 8 feet tall and 40 feet long. Some trailers max out at 53 feet long and offer lofts to further accommodate comfortable living space—all the more reason for trucks to continue boosting their towing capacity.

Safer Travels

Aluminum is not the only major safety change for horses among bumper pulls, goosenecks, and even commercial haulers. Just about all the mechanical systems have also been upgraded, such as axles, brakes, running gear, couplers, hitches, and more. Horses have better ventilation, too, with screened windows on both sides of the trailer.

Moreover, features such as rubber mats and ramps are common nowadays, offering cushion and safer traction. 4-Star even incorporates patented “Quiet Ride” technology, since research, conveyed by Shifflet, demonstrates that “horses are less stressed when the trailer rattles less.” Old steel trailers were almost deafening for horses, which could not have made for the happiest of travelers.

Many modern-day horse trailers are also equipped with an air-ride suspension system. Unlike the first models with spring suspension, horse trailers with air ride better compensate for uneven surfaces in the road, such as potholes or speed bumps, increasing equine comfort.

Key Takeaway

Updates and improvements throughout the horse trailer industry aren’t done by a long shot. Gelvin says that the way customers’ needs change is key. Today, many consumers want their horse trailers to be multi-purpose, ultimately saving money, so they can have the option to haul horses one weekend and small off-road vehicles the next.

One thing is certain: horse transportation has experienced drastic, yet positive changes in terms of safety and comfort. Now, if only we could explain to our horses how far we’ve come!

This article about the evolution of horse trailers appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Travel for horses has come a long way since pre-1950, when railroad shipping was the main option for covering long distances. Today’s horses frequently travel many miles for competition, breeding and relocation. When it comes to long-distance hauling, should you haul your own horse or use a commercial shipper? Learning what’s involved can help you make the smartest and safest decision.

Veterinary Input Before Hauling

Travel is stressful on horses, although some handle it better than others.

While you can never eliminate risk completely, good planning can greatly minimize it, according to Woodrow Friend, DVM, who has been a veterinarian with Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital in Lexington, Ky., for 21 years.

Paperwork: “Every state requires a certificate of veterinary inspection (CVI), but some also require a permit number to enter; you just need to know beforehand,” says Friend. Some equine events and boarding barns also require proof of certain vaccinations.

Confirm ahead of time what paperwork is required at your destination and any states you’ll be traveling through. Health certificates should be obtained within 30 days of travel.

Proof of negative Coggins is always required. Confirm with your destination, as some states require a six-month Coggins, instead of the standard one-year test.

Prevent illness: Take temperatures before shipping and never ship a horse with even a low-grade fever.

Friend recommends preloading with electrolytes—either paste or top-dressed on their feed—to encourage your horse to consume more water before traveling.

“I’ve seen more pneumonia than colic from shipping in my practice,” he says. “You’re dealing with a long-necked animal that needs to drop his head to drain the airways.”

As he explains, when horses are tied with their heads up for hours, the mucous and natural secretions in the airways can’t clear out quickly, which increases the chance of respiratory problems. This risk is heightened when horses are eating hay from a suspended net with wind blowing dust and bedding particles around.

Friend says the best scenario for long-distance travel is a box stall setup so hay can be at floor level and the horse can drop his head to clear his airway. If this isn’t possible, and the horse is tied, but frets without hay, he suggests dampening the hay slightly to reduce dust and fine particles.

Overheating: Finally, don’t underestimate how much body heat horses generate in a closed trailer. Check that all vents and windows are open (with grills and/or screens in place) to maximize air flow.

“During the summer, driving through the night is easier on horses because it’s cooler,” says Friend.

Consider a Commercial Hauler

A major advantage of using a reputable commercial shipper is that they must be Department of Transportation (DOT) compliant, so they are precise about safety regulations and generally have two drivers per rig.

When you factor in stops for fuel and checking horses, an average of 50 mph is typical for a commercial hauler, notes Jim Welsh, owner of Elite Horse Transport based out of Waco, Ky.

Welsh uses air ride tractor trailers and hauls predominately show horses (hunter/jumpers and dressage) and some racehorses, both Thoroughbreds and Standardbreds.

They operate primarily from New York, Virginia and Kentucky to all points in the U.S. and Canada. Twice a month, he hauls horses to and from California.

“We load up in Lexington (Ky.) and will be in Southern California within 60 hours,” says Welsh. “Horses are in box stalls and stay on the truck the whole time.”

The rig is equipped with cameras so drivers can continually view the horses. Hay and water is in front of horses the entire trip. Stalls are bedded with shavings.

“On a trip this long, we stop and shut down for four to five hours once, and will have a two-hour stop twice during the trip. If a horse shows us he needs more rest, we’ll stop more often,” he adds, explaining that stopping encourages horses to rest, drink and urinate.

In a commercial van, a box stall measures about 8’x8′. Because the horse is not tied, he can position himself however he’s most comfortable—whether facing forward, backward, or diagonally.

The “stall and a half” size (also called a double stall) is usually 4’x8′, and the horse is cross-tied.

“Numerous university studies have proven a box stall is the best way for a horse to travel,” says Welsh, who only ships cross-country if horses are in box stalls.

Welsh also gets called out regularly on rescue missions to assist owners who have a breakdown while hauling their own horses.

“Bring extra water and hay with you,” he advises. “Check your route and plan ahead for what you’ll do if something goes wrong. Realize that if you only have one driver, a 700-mile trip is going to be a challenge. You have to be realistic with your expectations, especially if you’re driving through the night. If you’re not used to driving like a truck driver, it’s a daunting task to drive 1,000 miles and be concerned about horses behind you.”

Hauling Your Own

Angela and Jackie Ganter barrel race professionally, which puts them on the road all summer traveling to rodeos across the western U.S. and up into Canada. The mother-daughter team live in Abilene, Texas, where they own and operate a boarding facility.

The Ganters haul their own horses to competitions, typically loading five horses in their air ride five-horse living quarters trailer pulled by a small Freightliner.

The distance between rodeos can vary anywhere from three to 15 hours.

“If we aren’t in a time crunch, we like to split trips into two days and lay over somewhere,” says Jackie. “If we have a time crunch, we will drive straight through and take turns driving. We usually don’t unload unless it’s a 10-plus hour trip. Then we’ll stop halfway and let them out for 30 minutes or so to get their heads down, walk and get a drink. If we have time to spend the night, we’d rather do that. We use horsemotel.com and make plans in advance.”

The Ganters use slow-feeder hay nets so horses can pick at hay while en route.

They always bring extra water, feed, and hay, as well as different weight blankets to be prepared for weather changes.

“One time we were stranded for 24 hours on the side of road during a blizzard because the interstate was shut down due to treacherous conditions,” says Jackie.

Plan Your Stops

Friend points out that the ride can be very different for horses traveling in an air ride tractor-trailer versus a standard horse trailer. In addition, traveling in stop-and-go traffic puts more physical strain on a horse than uninterrupted travel at highway speed on the interstate.

Although it might seem like your horse is just standing in the trailer, he’s constantly adjusting his balance to accommodate for changes in speed, braking, turns and lane changes, not to mention uneven road surfaces and trailer vibration.

This is why horsemen who regularly haul long distances stop every four or five hours for 20 to 30 minutes. This allows horses to relax, drink and urinate, something they often won’t do while the trailer is in motion.

“Even just stopping for a short time will give their legs a break from the beating of driving down the road,” says Ganter.

Friend stresses the importance of having your horse drink during his journey.

“Some horses won’t touch water when traveling, but you have to know your horse,” he says. “If you have a horse with history of colic or tying up, you’ll have to stop and offer water and walk him more frequently.”

Unless you’ve stopped at a stabling area to stay overnight or for several hours, it’s safer for horses to remain in the trailer during breaks. With water breaks and hay provided, most horses will be fine in the trailer for 10 to 12 hours.

“You can’t just pull over at any rest stop to take your horse out and walk him around,” says Friend. “If you’re going on a long trip, you need to preplan stops and layovers.”

On trips of 24 hours or more, plan for a layover of about 12 hours so your horse can relax in a stall or pen where he can eat and drink normally. It’s not uncommon for horses to drink less than usual while in transit, so layovers help them stay hydrated.

Preparing for Long-Distance Horse Hauling

When hauling your own horse, ensure your trailer and tow vehicle are prepared for a long trip. This includes checking:

◆ Fluid levels
◆ Brakes
◆ Lights
◆ Tire condition and recommended inflation PSI, including spare tires (for tow vehicle and trailer)
◆ Necessary equipment to change tires
◆ Trailer wheel bearings (should be re-packed regularly)
◆ Trailer vents/windows/doors
◆ Full fuel tank

Use absorbent bedding so horses feel more comfortable urinating in the trailer. Large-flake shavings absorb moisture well and aren’t as dusty as small flakes. Avoid sawdust, which contributes dust and particulates to the air your horse is breathing.

If you have questions or concerns prior to making a long-distance trip, talk with your veterinarian.

This article about long-distance horse hauling appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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“Some horses lock up their feet and refuse to go forward, while others will step on and fly backward off of the trailer,” says trainer Brittany Malinoski, whose focus is the working cow and ranch divisions. She blends natural and traditional methods in her training program and has a strong passion for colt starting. She operates her Brittany Lee Performance Horses out of Creeks Edge Farm in Lebanon, Tenn.

If you’ve ever had the misfortune of trying to load a difficult horse, you may have wondered just how or why he arrived there. According to Malinoski, horses can find loading onto a trailer challenging for a variety of reasons, including inexperience, an accident involving trailering, poor experiences while hauling as a result of driver error, and even uncomfortable trailering experiences derived from slippery flooring.

Regardless of the reason, Malinoski shares some of her tried and true methods for teaching your horse to overcome his aversion and load like a pro.

Preparing Your Trailer for Self-Loading

Before you begin working through your horse’s trailer loading woes with self-loading as the end goal, make sure that your trailer is safe, comfortable, and inviting by bedding the floor with shavings and placing hay in a bag or net. For the trailer floor, Malinoski prefers trailer mats with shavings and, because it is highly palatable, chooses to offer alfalfa hay.

Trailer preparations aside, Malinoski explains that your horse should have good manners and be solid in his ground handling skills so he can go off the feel of what you’re asking before you attempt to tackle the trailer itself.

Finally, if possible, you may wish to provide your horse with a mentor or buddy skilled at trailer loading. While Malinoski advises that horses should eventually become adept at loading alone in any situation, having an experienced horse to model his loading skills and then waiting patiently in the trailer may make your horse comfortable enough to be drawn inside to join him while he is still solidifying the skill.

Squeeze Game

To help horses become comfortable in narrow spaces such as trailers, Malinoski makes use of an activity called the squeeze game. Using an arena fence or wall, set up two cones or barrels slightly larger than one horse width to create a narrow passage, similar to a trailer stall.

Before beginning, your horse should be outfitted in a rope halter with a lead rope attached. You’ll also need a whip or stick with a flag or string at one end.

Comparable to a longeing exercise, work your horse at the walk on a circle, sending him through the passage on one side of your circle. Be sure to work in both directions.

Malinoski says that while this exercise teaches young horses to be more accepting of tight spaces and lays the groundwork for future trailer loading success, it can also work well for older horses that have developed trailer loading problems.

Getting Your Horse to Successfully Self-Load

Once your horse is doing well with the squeeze game, it’s time to get back to loading. To prepare, you should outfit yourself and your horse just as you did for the squeeze game.

Malinoski begins by working the horse behind the trailer with the doors closed. You can do this by spending a few minutes reinforcing your send-off command at the walk on a small circle in both directions.

Next, open the trailer doors. Using the same commands, send your horse onto the trailer. Have patience and be prepared to drop back and reinforce his skills before trying again.

If the behavior isn’t too deeply confirmed, the session may advance quickly, but in more deeply ingrained instances, it may take a few sessions before your horse is well on his way to being the self-loader you’ve always dreamed of.

Getting Professional Help

Sometimes even the best-laid plans can go awry, and your trailer re-training may not go the way you expected.

While Malinoski says that most amateurs who are solid in their ground handling skills should be able to tackle this issue, she recommends seeking professional help if your horse isn’t making progress, or if he’s regressing from his previous level of expertise.

“In these cases, you should focus on your groundwork away from the trailer and find a professional to help you in the trailering situation,” she advises.

This article about teaching a horse to self-load in the trailer appeared in the May 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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While you can often ask for help, there is some peace of mind in knowing how to confidently back the trailer on your own. Don’t just shrug helplessly in defeat—backing a trailer is challenging, but less difficult than some of the skills you’ve mastered on your horse.

1. Practice Ahead of Time

It might sound mundane to practice backing a trailer. Life is busy enough as it is—you’re lucky to carve out enough time to take your horse out on the weekends, let alone practicing backing with an empty trailer when you don’t need to.

But think of it this way—you wouldn’t expect to load your horse for the very first time on show day. Instead, you would take time and carefully train him to safely and efficiently load in the trailer long before you need to take him to a show. So why treat yourself any differently?

Learn your backup procedures in a quiet, low-pressure environment where you have plenty of time to think through the steps without a deadline, without horses in the back that need to get on the road, and without your tired family demanding fast food for the trip home.

2. Learn the “Reset” Trick

First, learn how to recover from mistakes. If your trailer starts to pivot too quickly away from the truck, do this:

◆ Stop.

◆ Straighten the wheel.

◆ Pull forward slowly.

◆ Watch what’s happening behind you and pull forward until the truck and trailer are perfectly straight again.

◆ Now you’re reset and ready to keep trying. If you have room, you can reset at any time and quickly recover from a potential jackknife.

3. Try a Simple Turn in Reverse

The key to controlling your trailer in reverse is to understand how to make turns. This is the secret:

◆ Use the reset trick to get the rig completely straight.

◆ Stop moving.

◆ Turn your truck’s steering wheel in a direction opposite of what you want the trailer to do (this is probably the biggest mental challenge to overcome). For instance, if you’d like the trailer to turn to the right, start by turning your steering wheel left. Turn the wheel about half the way to its maximum distance. If you turn too little, not much will happen. If you turn too much, you get into jackknife territory.

◆ Move the rig in reverse a short distance—say 3 or 4 feet.

◆ Stop again.

◆ Take a good look at what has happened so far. There should be a gentle bend at the hitch between your truck and trailer—and your trailer should be aimed to the right a bit.

◆ Turn the steering wheel back to the right, so that the truck now follows the trailer’s path (this is important!).

◆ Start going in reverse again and keep a careful watch on what’s happening.

◆ If all goes well, the truck and trailer should stay in a nice gentle turn for as long as you need, with the truck following behind.

◆ Make small adjustments to the steering wheel to keep the curve the way you want it (see next step).

4. Make Tiny Adjustments as You Go

Whether you’re performing a turn or just backing straight up, the trailer will want to start deviating from its path the whole time, and you have to be ready.

◆ If the trailer starts drifting too far right, turn the steering wheel harder to the right to catch it.

◆ If the trailer drifts left, turn left harder.

◆ Imagine that the trailer is balancing in the air on its hitch and you have to move the truck to stay underneath it and keep it upright.

◆ Stop and think whenever you need to.

◆ Remember to use the reset trick early—if you do it before you get into big trouble, it only takes a couple seconds to fix problems.

5. Start Off Small

Part of what makes a horse trailer so difficult to maneuver in reverse is that it’s big and you can’t see everything around it. To help you master backing, try practicing with something more manageable, like a riding lawnmower or ATV with a little garden cart.

The steering concepts are identical, but you can effortlessly see what’s happening behind you and learn faster. This is a very helpful way to master the skill of backing a trailer.

6. Use Those Mirrors

Your side mirrors are important for helping you avoid obstacles while you’re backing, so use them to your advantage. You can even purchase side mirror extenders designed specifically for towing. But you also need to look out the back window (it will help you see how the trailer is pivoting) and out the driver’s side window.

The backup process doesn’t have to be fast. You can always stop moving, look out the window, and see what’s happening. You may even want to get out of the truck to take a closer look.

7. Try a Back Up Camera

If you have a newer vehicle, it almost certainly has a backup camera pre-installed. But did you know you can easily purchase an add-on backup camera for your horse trailer?

A backup camera will aid you in making precise turns in reverse, but the real way these shine is by showing you what’s in your blind spot directly behind the trailer. It’s a good safety tool. Some of these systems allow you to add an interior camera for watching the horses, too.

8. Keep the Trailer Hitched

Maybe you need your tow vehicle as a daily driver and can’t leave it attached to the trailer for any length of time. But if it’s not, consider leaving your truck and trailer connected for a week. Go out each day and practice backing into parking spot lines in an empty parking lot. Without adding in the hookup time, you’ll be more inclined to practice.

Backing the trailer is a very important skill to learn if you haul your horse at all, and should make life a little less chaotic next time you’re on the road with your animals. Good luck!

This article about how to back a horse trailer appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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We worry about our horses being too hot or too cold or exposed to sudden weather fluctuations. We stand in stores reading fly spray labels to determine which might work best and fret about whether a rain sheet, mid-weight, or heavy turnout rug is necessary, only to then worry about our horse sweating or shivering under it if we pick the wrong one.

Therefore, it’s not surprising that our overworked minds might miss something. Problems pop up like pasture weeds. Here are 10 potentially problematic horse care mistakes to keep on your radar.

1. Over-Blanketing

Opinions about blanketing horses are as fraught with emotion as those about keeping newborn babies warm. Is the baby cold? Too warm? Is the blanket too tight, too loose? When should it be removed? The decision to blanket depends primarily upon weather conditions, temperature, available shelter, and your horse’s hair coat.

If your horse lives outdoors and wears a turnout rug, it should be removed daily for grooming while his skin is checked for rubs and his overall body condition is noted. Clipped horses have their natural protection removed, and need heavier blankets than horses with natural coats. Rain sheets and mid-weights are often enough for unclipped horses, while heavy rugs and neck covers are usually needed if the horse is clipped, thin, or used to a warmer climate.

Many healthy animals with a natural coat don’t need blanketing in winter as long as they have access to shelter from wind and precipitation. Blankets should always be removed if your horse is sweating underneath. It’s easier and far worse for a horse to overheat than be uncomfortable from cold or breezy weather, so err on the side of under-blanketing instead of over-blanketing.

2. Moldy Hay

Buying hay is always a challenge and has become more so in the last decade. Small square bales have given way to large ones, and round bales are practically impossible to assess for quality.

Drought conditions have made the supply smaller, with farmers baling fewer cuttings every year. Prices are high, requiring long searches for good hay in a tough market. Too often, when hay prices get high, horse owners are tempted to lower their standards and feed bales they would typically reject. This is risky, since bad hay causes respiratory problems and can be fatal if it is contaminated with blister beetles or toxic plants.

Never mistake tight, heavy bales or a green tint for quality, as weight can indicate that the hay was baled damp and the green color can be sprayed on like a faux lawn. There’s no substitute for your eyes and nose.

Learn what good hay looks and smells like and always inspect a few bales before you purchase. Even if you board your horse, always keep a close eye on what he is eating and insist on quality hay.

3. Dusty Bedding

Dusty bedding, hay, and arena footing can trigger equine asthma, a respiratory disease that is much harder to treat than to prevent. When buying pine shavings, check the wrapper to make sure you are buying the dust-free option. The cheaper products can become very expensive if your horse ends up with a persistent cough.

Shredded newspaper is the lowest-dust bedding available, although it may not be feasible to find in all areas. Straw bedding is the highest in dust.

4. Cluttered Barn Aisles

Your barn aisle is ground zero for your horse activities. It should be de-cluttered periodically and assessed for safety.

A horse may have gone in and out of his stall without incident for years, but it only takes one mistake for a door handle to slice his flank enough to require stitches. Protruding tack hooks and slippery footing are other avoidable accidents waiting to happen.

Cross-ties should always have breakaway hardware fastened closest to the wall so if you need to unfasten it in an emergency, you aren’t as close to a panicking horse. A loop of baling twine between the hardware and the wall hook is another breakaway point that will hold everyday forces but gives in case of a panicked pull-back.

Another potential hazard is the placement of feed containers in the aisle in front of stalls. Many horses are escape artists, and nothing tempts them like available food they know is just inches away.

5. No Pre-Purchase Vet Check

Both experienced and novice horse buyers often skip a pre-purchase exam for a variety of reasons: cost, inconvenience of scheduling, not knowing a local veterinarian where the horse is located, and believing they have the skills to detect conformation flaws or signs of looming disease.

A pre-purchase exam is not a health guarantee because the vet is only examining what exists the day of the exam, but any major issues will be a red flag to a professional who treats horses on a regular basis.

Laminitis has a lingering imprint in the ridges on a horse’s hooves; a heart murmur declares its presence through a stethoscope; and lameness is often subtle and difficult to detect—all are best assessed by a veterinarian. The fee for this service is tiny compared to owning a horse that you can’t sell in good fait.

6. Contracts for Horse Sales or Lease Agreements

The era of closing a horse sale with a handshake is long gone, yet many purchase agreements today have an abysmal paper trail. We live in a world that requires documentation as protection against lawsuits and disputes between parties who can’t remember the details of the original transaction.

7. Failing to Pre-Check Your Trailer

You’ve probably been there before: You’re in such a hurry to get on the road to the horse show or late for that trail ride that you skip the checklist of pre-departure truck, hitch and trailer inspections before starting the engine.

Owning a new trailer does not preclude a safety check on door and window latches, air vents, butt bars (if you have them), tire inflation, trailer lights, hitch connections, and electric wiring. Trailer windows should be open (with grills closed) based on weather and predicted inside temperature once underway. Most of the time, the temperature inside the trailer is much hotter than outside.

8. Buying and Keeping an Unsuitable Horse

Far too many people fall in love with a horse at first sight (or photo), throw caution to the wind and buy it, only to soon discover he’s not suited to their skills or needs. Disappointed new owners may resist selling because they are already emotionally committed. This situation typically ends with the horse as a pasture pet or the owner hiring a costly trainer to fix what usually can’t be fixed—an unhappy owner paired with an unsuitable horse.

Buy a horse for what you want to do with him, not because he’s a fashionable breed or has a flashy coat. Buyers should remember the adage, “A good horse is never a bad color.”

9. Trying New Things While Your Horse is Distracted

Don’t set yourself up for failure by ignoring obvious warning signs when teaching your horse something new. Cold, windy weather is not the best time to introduce sidepassing or trail riding. Impending storms often usher in erratic behavior in horses and cause problems under saddle.

Avoid trying to train when the arena is filled with distractions like jumping ponies and galloping reiners. Your horse learns better when he can focus. Likewise, don’t expect concentration when it’s feeding time and all of the other horses are happily digging into their meal.

10. Spoiling Your Horse

Horses are like children in that they will take advantage of weak leadership, and they occasionally need correction. Failing to assert yourself as the leader of your “herd of two” usually ends in disappointment, if not injury.

If you can’t assert yourself enough to do this, your horse will step right into the role. Watch two horses turned out together and you’ll see they settle who is in charge within minutes, and every breach of that agreement will be challenged. Horse owners should never fall for the myth that horses love those who placate and spoil them. Horses respect clear leadership, not pushover love.

Every horse owner has made one of these mistakes in horse care and horsemanship, and probably asked themselves later why they didn’t listen to their inner voice telling them another day would be better to try something new. There is no need to learn a lesson the hard way!

This article about common horse care mistakes appeared in the November/December 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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For many of us, enjoying our horses involves transportation with a truck that can tow a horse trailer. Whether it’s hauling to a show or event, meeting friends at the trail head for a long ride or heading out for a weekend of camping and riding, you want to get there—and home again—safely. In a perfect world, you’d know exactly what your hauling needs are going to be so you could buy a truck and horse trailer at the same time. In reality, it rarely works out this way.

NRS Trailers is one of the country’s largest premier trailer dealerships, with locations in five states. Rusty Willis, general manager and service manager at the Ocala, Fla., location has worked in the trailer industry for 30 years. In his experience, many horse owners who are buying their first trailer or upgrading to a better trailer are hoping to get by with using their current vehicle to tow it.

Willis says the most common towing mistake is trying to pull too much trailer with a less-than-sufficient tow vehicle. The danger here is that the loaded trailer can end up controlling the situation, which can lead to disaster.

“People ask me all the time, ‘Can my truck pull this trailer?’” says Willis. “Their truck might be able to pull it, but being able to stop safely is the most important part of hauling anything. This is the biggest liability. The biggest folklore around is just considering how much you can pull. It’s really about how much you can stop safely.”

Truck Specs for Pulling a Horse Trailer

Whether you already have a trailer or are shopping for one, knowing how much weight you’ll tow on a regular basis tells you if you have enough vehicle to safely do the job—or if you’ll need something different.

Add together:

◆ The weight of trailer
◆ The weight of horses
◆ The weight of all tack and gear

This gives you a starting point of what your vehicle must have in towing capacity, which is listed in the owner’s manual.

It’s over-simplifying to say a half-ton truck (like the Ford F-150, Ram/Chevrolet/GMC 1500, and others) is always fine for a two-horse trailer. That’s because the same model and year truck can have a different engine size, transmission, rear axle ratio and wheelbase.

For example, the range of towing capacity of the 2020 Ford F-150 differs by several thousand pounds (7,700 to 13,200 pounds), depending on the engine, even though they are all rated as half-ton trucks (half-ton refers to the carrying capacity in the cab and bed of the truck).

Engines also vary in horsepower and torque. Torque, which is the power that gets the wheels moving from a stop, is considered more important than horsepower when towing. The more weight you’re hauling, the more torque you need.

The increased torque in some newer models enables a half-ton truck with a six-cylinder engine (V6) to pull more weight than the same model truck with an eight-cylinder engine (V8).

A truck manufacturer’s website can tell you what a truck is rated to pull, but you should know that these figures are not designed with live cargo in mind. A boat or camper isn’t going to shift and move around like live animals can. Towing experts advise that any time you’re hauling live cargo, you should stay below 70 to 75 percent of the vehicle’s max tow rating.

Tow ratings also don’t take into account terrain, which is important to consider if you’re regularly hauling in areas with significant uphill and downhill driving.

Fuel efficiency should never be your first priority when selecting a tow vehicle. Yes, we all want to save money, but a tow vehicle that is safe and powerful enough to pull and stop your precious cargo is more important than saving a few bucks at the pump.

To safely pull a horse trailer, your truck will need a tow package, which typically includes a heavy-duty class V hitch, wiring harness, and brake control. Depending on the vehicle model, it may also include a heavy-duty battery, transmission cooler, and other features.

Most full-size trucks have an anti-lock brake system (ABS), but you’ll still want separate electric brakes on your trailer.

A frame-mounted hitch, welded directly to the vehicle’s frame, is necessary for towing a horse trailer. The fifth wheel (also called a gooseneck) hitch is mounted to the frame in the middle of the truck bed and centered over the rear axles.

The wide variety of trucks and trailers on the road today testifies to the fact that horse owners have very different wants, needs and budgets. Below is a look at three broad categories, one of which you are likely to fall into.

Weekend Warrior

Typically, this is the single-horse owner who hauls regularly to events and/or trail rides. Their trailer might have a tack compartment, but not living quarters.

Paige Macfarland (no relation to writer) of Green Valley, Ariz., tows a straight-load two-horse, bumper pull CM trailer to take her Quarter Horse gelding to trail rides, and often hauls a friend’s horse as well. Her trailer weighs 2,500 pounds empty, and when loaded with two horses and tack, comes in just under 5,000 pounds.

Macfarland bought the trailer new nine years ago when she was towing with a 2008 Ford F-150.

“A couple years ago, I upgraded to a 2016 F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost Twin-Turbocharged V6,” says Macfarland. Her new truck has a max towing capability of 12,200 lbs.

“This engine is a step up, and my other truck was getting up there in mileage,” she says. “I had the tow package added, so I got exactly what I wanted, although now I wish I’d gotten the back-up camera.”

Make Sure Your Truck is Up to Hauling Horses

An owner of two to three horses who hits the road regularly, driving varying distances, usually has a three-horse slant-load trailer with a tack room and perhaps living quarters.

When Jill Brown of Williston, Fla., bought her three-horse slant-load, all-aluminum Shadow trailer, the dealer assured her their 2017 Ford F-150 with 2.7L EcoBoost V6 engine could handle it.

The 18-foot-long bumper pull trailer with front tack room is 7’6″ tall, which adds some wind resistance, and weighs 2,400 pounds. Loaded with three horses plus equipment, the total weight is about 6,000 pounds, which was well below the truck’s towing capacity.

“I was able to pull it, but the truck frame just wasn’t stout enough, and the mileage dropped to 10 mpg when towing,” says Brown, who upgraded to a 2012 Ford F-350 dually with 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine.

“This truck is more than sufficient for towing, and with the diesel engine, I still get 15 mpg even when towing a full load,” says Brown, who regularly hauls the family’s three horses to area trail rides and team sorting events. “It’s always better to have more power than you need. Plus, with it being a dually, it’s very stable when towing; you can’t even tell if the horses are moving around.”

Willis explains that a one-ton dually can tow more weight than the same size truck with single rear tires behind because dual wheels offer more stability and less drift.

Equine Professional

Making a living with horses means routinely hauling multiple horses. Professional horsemen often have a gooseneck trailer with living quarters and tack room, as well as space to haul up to six horses.

Willis explains that some larger, high-end trailers have conversion package living quarters that use heavier wood than standard models, adding to the overall weight. Increased weight and horse trailer length can push the towing limits of even a one-ton dual-wheeled truck.

“You can have a 30-foot trailer that weighs 15,000 pounds when loaded,” says Willis. “You might get by with a one-ton truck, but you’re borderline needing more.”

Manufacturers such as Freightliner, Kenworth, International and Peterbilt all offer sport chassis hauler models (“small semis”) designed specifically for towing large gooseneck horse trailers. Domestic truck manufacturers like Ford, Chevy, and GMC also build trucks with engines beyond the classic one-ton size. Expect all of these engines to be diesel.

A standard driver’s license may not be adequate if you need to step up to a truck and horse trailer with a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 pounds or more. Check with your state for specific license requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size truck do I need to pull a horse trailer?

This depends on the weight of the horse trailer, the weight of horses you’ll be hauling, and the weight of all tack and gear that may be in the trailer. Once you’ve done the math, towing experts suggest that any time you’re hauling live animals, you should stay below 70 to 75 percent of the vehicle’s max tow rating.

What features does a truck need to tow a horse trailer?

To safely pull a horse trailer, your truck will require a tow package. This usually includes a heavy-duty class V hitch, wiring harness, and brake control. Depending on the vehicle model, it may also include a heavy-duty battery, transmission cooler, and other helpful features for towing a horse trailer.

This article about choosing the right truck to tow a horse trailer appeared in the June 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Finding the Right Truck to Tow a Horse Trailer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

No matter how much you enjoy riding away from home at shows or on trail rides, you probably cringe at the gas pump watching the total spiral ever higher when you have to fill up your tow vehicle. Tow vehicles aren’t known for their fuel efficiency, but there are things you can do to improve your gas mileage while hauling a horse trailer so you can pay less at the pump. Routine maintenance, attention to detail, and better driving habits will all lead to a trip that is a little lighter on your wallet.

Watch The Weight of Your Horse Trailer

One of the first things to consider is how much weight you’re loading onto your rig, which means you need to know what your trailer weighs when empty and loaded. The heavier a trailer is, the more it will cost in fuel to tow it.

Trailer weights are printed on the manufacturer’s statement of origin if you purchase your trailer new. Otherwise, it might be listed on a sticker inside the frame of the trailer. If all else fails, you can take your trailer to a public scale and weigh it. It’s best to do this both when the trailer is empty and fully loaded.

“What’s going to really kill your fuel mileage is if you’re asking too much of your tow vehicle,” says Shane Jensen, sales manager at Trails West Manufacturing in Preston, Idaho. “For instance, say a half-ton truck has a towing rating of 8,000 pounds from the bumper hitch. If you get a big three-horse, 8-foot wide trailer that is 7’6″ tall, it already weighs around 7,000 pounds. Put three horses in it, and it’s going to cost you.”

Even if you have a trailer well within your vehicle’s tow rating when loaded, anything you can do to lighten the load will improve your mileage somewhat, says Chad Toney, who owns The 20X Custom Shop LLC. His business, located in Elizabeth, Colo., does trailer repair and fabrication and sells towing accessories.

“The best ways to improve fuel mileage are to limit engine load and limit weight,” Toney says. “Weight is tough to manage, but if you’re chasing MPGs [miles per gallon], it’s worth leaving what you don’t need at home.”

Once you’ve calculated your vehicle and trailer’s tow weight correctly, you will need to make sure the trailer’s weight is distributed evenly on its axles. Too much weight on the tongue will cause it to weigh down the tow vehicle and ride more on the trailer’s front axle. This lowers fuel efficiency because the aerodynamics of the trailer are designed for level towing.

“If you’re really squatting down your tow vehicle, you should ask your dealership for a weight distributing hitch,” Jensen says. “What that does is distribute the weight off the back end [of the vehicle] and push it forward, so the front axle of the tow vehicle is helping handle the weight. On top of probably saving your fuel mileage, you’re safer [due to reduced sway and] you’ve got better steering stability.”

Slow Down to Improve Gas Mileage

Just like weight, speed is another factor that can cause a huge decrease in the gas mileage you get while hauling your horse trailer. When you’re on the road, it can be tempting to try to get there as quickly as possible, but that only leads to more money and time spent fueling up.

Alex Taft, a non-pro reiner who shows in limited-age events, hauled to 18 shows last year chasing National Reining Horse Association Rookie Year-End titles. She estimated she spent more than $2,000 on diesel while driving her rig, which consists of an F-250 and a two-horse gooseneck trailer.

“We got the best mileage when we drove on the highway at times of the day when traffic was at a minimum,” Taft says. “That way, we could keep our speed around 60-65 mph, which seemed to be where our MPGs improved the most. Anything over that, and you could almost watch the fuel needle drop as you drove.”

Toney agrees significant gains in mileage can be found by keeping your speed around 60 mph. Plus, your trailer’s tire speed rating, which tells you how fast you can run on the interstate, is likely in that range, too. This number won’t affect your gas mileage as much as it will prevent you from having a tire blow out, but anything you can do to help your horse trailer or tow vehicle run more efficiently should show mileage gains—and save your wallet.

“Speed really kills you on fuel mileage,” Jensen concurs. “You can get a higher speed rating on a higher ply tire, like a 14-ply or a 16-ply for the tires that go on big living quarter trailers, but you’re not going to push them over 70. If you stay within the rating, though, you will save fuel mileage and problems.”

Air Up Your Vehicle & Horse Trailer Tires

Just like your horse’s routine farrier care can affect his well-being, how you maintain your tires will improve or worsen your mileage and risk when towing. Under-inflated tires have more friction on the road, which lowers fuel efficiency and increases the likelihood of a flat.

“In most cases, we recommend you run your trailer tires at near [PSI] capacity or whatever the sidewall [of the] trailer tire states,” Jensen says. “The sidewall will state the maximum PSI, and our specification is to air them up to the max. It does help your fuel mileage when you’re aired up properly, but you’re also less likely to have blowouts.”

Regular tire maintenance and rotation is one of the best ways to make sure you’re getting maximum performance out of your rig.

“Correct size and weight-rated tires will help,” Toney adds. “Larger and heavier tires take more power and fuel to start and keep moving. I see a few folks that want to run 14-ply tires on smaller trailers, and that will probably affect mileage and brake wear negatively.”

Take Care of Your Vehicle

Weight, speed and tire maintenance can all help add MPGs, but when you’re not towing, the best thing you can do to boost mileage is maintain your vehicle in general. Towing adds stress to a vehicle, so parts can wear out quickly. When things aren’t in working order, your mileage tends to suffer.

“We make sure our oil changes are done when needed, rotate tires regularly and keep the air filters clean,” Taft says. “When you haul horses, you typically are in dusty areas. A clean air filter can make a huge difference in how your engine performs.”

The type of vehicle you drive will factor into what you spend on maintenance, which could diminish your fuel savings. Diesels usually cost more to purchase, fuel up, insure and maintain than gas vehicles. If you’re only pulling a small horse trailer, it might actually be cheaper to tow with a gasoline-powered vehicle.

“Modern gasoline trucks are closing the gap in towing with the diesel trucks,” Toney said. “Those with a two- to four-horse trailer, even a smaller living quarters, should be happy with the newer gas trucks. Diesels will continue to be preferred for hauling larger trailers, but for the average horse owner, it’s well worth a serious look at newer gas-powered trucks.”

At the end of the day, hauling horses is always going to come with costs. But if you’re mindful of how much you’re towing, lower your speed, and keep your equipment in good order, your savings at the pump will really add up given today’s fuel prices. Then you can keep trucking down the road, best friend in tow.

This article about improving gas mileage while towing a horse trailer appeared in the June 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Gas Mileage While Pulling a Horse Trailer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Because virtually every aspect of horse ownership carries some degree of risk, horse owners should consider the possibility that things can sometimes go wrong and lead to legal issues. In most common cases, the horse does not present the only risk: People who will be interacting with him can cause a multitude of problems, which in a worst-case scenario can land you in court as a horse owner.

Our generally optimistic outlook on life with horses is not often eroded by a fear of being sued. Most of us never expect it from loved ones or horsey friends, yet this precise situation happens with some frequency.

A myriad of hazardous situations involving horses can result in a lawsuit, most too complicated to resolve without an experienced attorney. Yet we offer horseback rides to family members, casually board horses on our properties for extra income, and lend our trailers to friends.

The following should not constitute legal advice—always consult an attorney for that—but these five topics are designed to give you an idea of the common areas of conflict that crop up in horse legal issues and court cases.

1. Buying and Selling

Far too many horse buyers are more emotional than careful when buying a horse, and thus they are amazingly cavalier about documenting the transaction. They fall in love with a horse, sometimes by merely looking at it online, and purchase it sight unseen.

Most buyers and sellers jot a few words on paper about the exchange of money and consider that sufficient to change ownership. It may be for some, but protection in a dispute about ownership is better ensured with a detailed and thorough contract that you can easily find if needed.

If presenting a contract—or signing one already drawn up—seems beyond the needs of the average horse owner, consider how many horse buyers wait for registration papers that never arrive, take possession of an injured horse upon delivery, or discover their new performance horse has a periodic lameness issue related to a previous case of laminitis that the seller neglected to disclose.

Sometimes the seller insists on a “right of first refusal” (see below), yet the buyer sells the horse without informing the former owner. What is the recourse when a sale is made on a proverbial handshake deal?

If hiring an attorney to draw up the specifics of a sale seems like overkill, at least consider using one of the many online equine sales contracts that provide a good starting point for buyers and sellers. Specific details or modifications can be added by either party to strengthen its viability, should a dispute arise.

2. Boarding

Most boarding stable owners are careful enough to require signed documentation from boarders limiting the business’s risk of liability in the event of an accident involving a boarder or their horse. That document typically outlines the rules established by the stable for everything from turning off arena lights to requiring all one-day riders or those test-riding a horse for possible purchase to sign a legal liability waiver.

High-profile boarding stable owners don’t rely on loosely worded boarding contracts with one-size-fits-all contractual language, because they know the cost of an attorney is minuscule compared to a judgment against them in a personal injury lawsuit.

More casual horse boarding operations would be wise to follow suit. Non-paying boarders or those routinely late with payments often present a problem that ends up with the horse as the only bargaining chip. In these situations, frustrated stable owners sometimes overstep legal boundaries.

“Declaring the stable to be the owner of the horse and selling it without following the law or putting the horse in the stable’s lesson program may not be legal,” says Julie Fershtman, a national trial lawyer, legal consultant, and author of two award-winning editions of Equine Law and Horse Sense. Fershtman is widely considered one of the top equine attorneys in the U.S.

“Stable owners of all types and sizes should be aware of their state agister’s lien statutes that give them a security interest in the horse that allows them to enforce the lien after a specified period of time has passed and the stable has performed specific procedures,” she says.

Boarding contracts typically include the Equine Liability Law for the state, and stable owners are also required in many states to post signs in the most visible barn areas to remind everyone of the inherent risk associated with horse activities. Copies of equine activity liability releases (sometimes referred to as waivers) should be on-site, signed and dated by non-boarders.

Some horse owners mistakenly believe equine liability waivers are not successfully defended in court, when the reverse is true. Even so, an equine liability release does not guarantee the stable cannot be held liable for any accident. For instance, a lawsuit can be brought by a boarder who can prove the stable owner has been negligent by failing to perform reasonable measures to protect the safety of boarders and their horses.

“Many in the horse industry misunderstand equine activity liability laws, currently found in 48 states, and wrongly assume that these are ‘zero liability’ laws,” says Fershtman.

“That is not true. Although many of these laws limit the basis for a claim or lawsuit, they typically allow for the possibility of certain types of claims to be brought.”

Horse owners sometimes view boarding contracts as routine paperwork that protects the rights of the stable owner, yet these signed agreements are often relied upon by both parties when a dispute arises.

3. Leasing or Share Boarding

While an arrangement for leasing a horse can be a win-win for both parties, the best way to make sure everyone is on the same page is to write down the terms, fees and exclusions, and require each party to read and sign the contract. Without a written reminder, the lessee may believe her payments are for the purchase of the horse rather than its temporary use.

That’s merely one of many disagreements that can arise when time passes and memories fail. A written contract can include standard terms, such as duration of the lease, payment schedule, which days are assigned to each rider, and who is authorized to ride the horse.

More detailed contracts can define liability issues, who is responsible for veterinary and farrier care, and whether the lessee has the option to buy the horse during or at the end of the lease. The more specific the contract, the greater the chance of a positive outcome.

4. Trailering

When you own a horse trailer, you can count on someone eventually asking to borrow it, use it in an emergency, or asking you to transport a horse in your trailer for a fee.

In these situations, you need to be aware of what your insurance policy will or will not cover. Those who assume their homeowner’s policy or car insurance will pay an accident claim involving a horse trailer and someone else’s property can live to regret it.

For example, a policy may cover personal use of your truck and trailer, yet consider you a commercial entity if you were paid to transport someone else’s horse. Unfortunately, insurance companies look for holes in your policy that allow them to deny claims. This is why policy holders never want to hear their insurance agent say, “read the fine print” after something goes wrong.

5. Insurance

Commercial horse businesses generally carry extensive insurance because their liability is multiplied by buildings, equipment, employees, boarders and visitors. Always know what your insurance specifically covers before you need it.

Trainers and riding instructors should be especially careful since they are on the “front lines” with more hands-on responsibility for clients and horses. Many carry umbrella policies that cover general liability insurance plus added coverage for care, custody, and control of their clients’ horses. The facility where training and riding instruction is conducted does not typically carry coverage that indemnifies trainers and riding instructors.

Horse owners and those in the horse industry shouldn’t live in continual fear of being sued, but we do live in a litigious society. Covering all bases with solid, detailed contracts, hiring a lawyer to handle complicated but common legal issues, and buying insurance specific to your horse activities is the best way to protect your assets.

This article about common legal issues in the horse world appeared in the May 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Many of us depend on trainers or friends to haul our horses to competitions, trailheads, or emergency veterinary appointments. That’s a sufficient strategy for some, but there’s a particular sort of freedom that comes from taking the leap and selecting a horse trailer of your own, especially if an emergency arises and a friend’s horse trailer is not available.

With an overwhelming array of options on the market, you won’t be starved for choice. Most trailer owners are glad to share their preferences, but it’s essential to choose the rig that’s right for you and your horse. Download our trailer-buying guide to help you navigate the market as you begin selecting a horse trailer.

Selecting Horse Trailer Basics

As you start your search, a couple of seemingly simple factors—both related to size—will direct the process of choosing a horse trailer

Interior Size: The first thing to consider when selecting a horse trailer is the size you need for your horse(s) to be safe and comfortable. A trailer that’s too tight can not only lead to injury, but can be a scary space to enter for nervous horses.

The average horse trailer is built for the average-sized horse, with internal dimensions ranging from 7 to 8 feet in height and 6 to 8 feet in width. Most Quarter Horses would fit just fine in the smaller models, but if you have 16-plus hand Thoroughbreds, you might want something taller, and if you ride Warmbloods, the stalls should accommodate wider bodies, as well.

If you’re towing Miniature Horses or draft horses, you may need a much more specialized horse trailer. According to the University of Maryland Extension, a good rule of thumb is that the trailer should be a minimum of 10 inches taller than your horse’s resting head height and allow 3 inches or more on each side.

Number of Horses: Next, you’ll want to ask yourself how many horses you plan to haul after selecting a horse trailer. Although single-horse trailers are popular in Europe, they are almost non-existent in the U.S. If, like most single-horse owners, you want the option of carpooling with friends or bringing extra hay for overnight trips, a standard two-horse size will do the trick and be easy to find.

If you own two or more horses, you may want a three-horse (or larger) with more tack space. Keep in mind that bigger trailers will often require a bigger (and more expensive) truck.

Selecting Horse Trailer Details

With size figured out, it’s time to start wading through the specifics. Factors such as hitch type, body type, and load style are all variable, and often dependent on individual preferences for both horse and human.

Hitch: Most horse trailers connect to your vehicle via either a hitch on the vehicle frame (a bumper pull) or a hitch in the bed of a pickup truck (gooseneck). If you decided to choose a trailer that will haul three or more horses, you may not have a choice, as most larger trailers are all goosenecks. If you’ve opted for a two-horse trailer, you’ll have more bumper pull options.

Bumper pulls tend to be smaller, more affordable, and can be hauled safely by smaller trucks or full-sized SUVs. They’re also more versatile if you already carry a truck camper or plan to use the bed of your pickup even when hauling your horse. Goosenecks, on the other hand, are larger and heavier, but also more stable and, despite their size, often easier to drive.

Stock vs. Enclosed Trailer: It’s important to consider various styles when selecting a horse trailer. Preference for stock versus horse-specific trailers is often dictated by familiarity, but also by where and how you’ll use the trailer. Livestock trailers tend to be basic, with open-slatted sides where windows would be on a horse trailer, and few bells and whistles. If you think you may need the flexibility of hauling a variety of animals, this will be the best option by default. But, if you only plan to haul horses, there’s more to consider.

Both stock and horse trailers can have good airflow—check for roof venting and windows that open in the latter. But, because their sides are partially open and insulation tends to be limited to non-existent, it is more difficult to regulate overall temperature in stock trailers. Furthermore, the screenless open slats increase the risk of road debris hitting your horse.

Load Position: Slant load or straight load? Everybody seems to have an opinion when it comes to load position, but there is little safety data to point to one over the other. Rather, as with most trailer features, this will come down to your and your horse’s needs.

Slant-loads make better use of the floor space, allowing you to haul more animals on a shorter wheelbase. This means the horse trailer can be easier to tow. They also tend to appear open, which is friendlier to anxious minds, and many horses are able to turn around and walk out, as opposed to backing out of a straight-load setup.

Since horses ride side-by-side in straight-load horse trailers, individual animals are easy to access and unload. They also let the horses balance on their front and rear legs during travel, which can be beneficial over long hauls.

Whichever load style you choose, dividers are useful for keeping multiple horses separate. If you only plan to haul one animal, you may want to remove dividers so they can ride in a box stall. Given a choice, most horses will turn around and ride facing backward, which is likely due to easier balancing in this position.

Steel vs. Aluminum: Most horse trailers are made of either steel or aluminum. Each material comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. Steel trailers, while strong, affordable, and easy to repair, are often heavy and more prone to rust. Aluminum trailers, on the other hand, are far lighter and can accommodate a heavier load. Although they don’t usually rust, aluminum trailers can corrode.

Ramp or Step-Up: The decision to get a ramp or step-up trailer is once again a personal one when choosing a horse trailer. Ramps can reduce the likelihood that a horse skins a leg while loading or unloading—hence their popularity among performance horses—but not all animals are comfortable walking on them.

Some horses dislike stepping up into or out of the horse trailer, especially if they are unloading backward. If you have a strong preference, most horses can learn to be comfortable with both; but, if you’re on the fence, let your horse’s preference be your guide.

Bonuses

Once you’ve decided on the type of horse trailer you want, it’s time to think about the range of features that can add comfort and convenience.

Tack Room: First, ask yourself whether you want a tack room and, if so, how you will use it. Will it be your primary storage area, even at home, or will you only use it on the road?

Tack rooms come in a variety of configurations and sizes; some even include a built-in water tank. If your chosen trailer has a rear tack room (fairly common in slant trailers), make sure it swings out to offer plenty of room for your horse to load and unload.

Lighting: In addition to legally required brake lights, tail lights, turn signals, and running lights, consider whether you need internal lighting for nighttime hauling and external lights, which are useful for tacking up or loading and unloading in the dark.

Sleeping Area: Whether you’re looking to save money on hotel stays at competitions or want a setup-free alternative at campgrounds, a horse trailer with sleeping quarters can be a worthwhile investment. And they are available in a variety of versions, from simple spaces for a cot and sleeping bag to a camper with all the essentials plus luxuries for longer stays.

Used or New?

A pre-owned horse trailer can be a great purchase for first-timers who don’t quite know what they’re looking for. But, if you’re buying used, it’s essential to check that the brakes, lights, flooring, hitch, and frame are all in good condition.

Your best bet is to take it for a “vet check” with a professional trailer mechanic.

Horsepower

Even the best horse trailer is no good without a vehicle to haul it. If you already have a truck, use this as your starting point for trailer shopping, or make sure to verify that it has the towing capacity to safely pull your trailer, horses, and gear.

If you don’t have a vehicle yet, keep in mind that bigger horse trailers will require a burlier vehicle. While some small trailers can be pulled by a full-sized SUV, most will require a truck.

This article about selecting a horse trailer appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Read to learn about horse industry careers that don’t require a college degree.

When it’s time for a career change or to take on a part-time job, horse enthusiasts often consider equine-industry vocations as a way to combine a love for horses and the need for a paycheck. So what types of jobs are out there, and are there immediate employment opportunities within a horse career, especially without the need for a college degree?

“Almost any entry- to mid-level position in the equine industry is in high demand,” says Laurie Mays, equine talent pipeline project manager for the Kentucky Equine Education Project (KEEP) in Lexington, Ky. “Farms, tracks, veterinary clinics, horse shippers, et cetera, are desperate for people with equine handling and industry experience. Someone who is willing to work hard will succeed, no problem.”

Here are some highlights for four equine-related jobs that could serve as a second career or fit into a schedule as a part-time horse job, without the person having to get a college degree.

Horse Transport Driver

JOB DESCRIPTION: This job involves semi-trailer horse transport, short-distance smaller van driving, or pickup truck and trailer driving to move a client’s horses from point A to point B. You must have experience in handling horses. For driving semis, a Class A Commercial Driver’s License (CDL) is required, but for smaller horse vans a Class B CDL is sufficient; a regular driver’s license may be enough for pickup truck and trailer under 26,000 pounds.

A few years of experience driving semis, a clean driving record and a Department of Transportation certified medical card are also required to land a job driving the “big rigs” for a horse transport company. These companies also offer other jobs, such as dispatchers, office personnel, mechanics and truck/trailer washing and restocking.

WHERE TO FIND JOB TRAINING: Truck driving school can be a good place to start,
but further driving experience is needed in order to drive a horse carrier semi. Some horse transport companies will partner experienced drivers with someone wanting to gain more experience.

The National Horse Carriers Association offers some useful information and contacts on their website (www.nationalhorsecarriers.com).

JOB OUTLOOK/AVAILABILITY: Horse transportation industry leaders report a great need for drivers. Nationally, all types of commercial semi drivers are in high demand.

TIPS FROM INDUSTRY EXPERTS: DJ Johnson, owner of Johnson Horse Transportation in Shartlesville, Penn., has been in the business for 27 years. His wife Elizabeth works with him as well, and they currently run over 30 trucks going to horse shows across North America.

“There are two important things that we look for with our drivers: first is the ability to handle horses and the second is safety,” says DJ. “Drivers need to be available to work weekends, have horse experience and the ability to read the animal. The care of the animals is of utmost importance to us.”

Vonnie Gesinske, 54, of Lexington, Ky., started driving a pickup and gooseneck trailer for Johnson Horse Transport about a year and a half ago. She shares her thoughts about her second-act horse industry career sans specialized degree.

“After meeting DJ and Elizabeth, I decided that getting back into the horse business as a driver sounded like a great opportunity. I had trained and bred Quarter Horses and Paint Horses professionally for over 25 years and been out of it for about 10 years. I was excited to be involved with a company that not only has very high-end show horses to haul, but very nice equipment to drive. Being able to stay local and be home a great deal was the icing on the cake.”

Foaling Barn Assistant

JOB DESCRIPTION: This is a seasonal job from about mid-December through June each year, usually on duty during the night. Working for a breeding farm manager or owner, the foaling assistant keeps watch over pregnant mares, sometimes assists in foaling, and contacts appropriate people (farm manager/owner, veterinarian) for assistance when the mare shows early signs of labor. May also include some stall cleaning, feeding/watering and turnout. Some record-keeping such as noting the mares’ activities at hourly checks and foaling dates and times may be required.

Knowledge of horses is important, especially of broodmares and the signs of labor. Assisting a foaling mare can be a demanding job, so the person filling this position should be relatively physically fit. The job requires a vigilant, reliable person who is intuitive and detail-oriented.

WHERE TO FIND JOB TRAINING: Attend an equine reproductive short course. Several universities and a few privately owned equine reproduction service and supply companies offer them. Volunteer to shadow experienced staff at a farm or a vet clinic during foaling season.

JOB OUTLOOK/AVAILABILITY: This horse career outlook is quite good for those with some experience, especially on larger Thoroughbred and Standardbred farms (and no degree needed). There are also some job openings at farms that breed western performance or English sport horses.

TIPS FROM AN INDUSTRY EXPERT: Ben Tucker of Lexington, Ky., has been in the horse business for over 40 years, including operating a custom foal-watch agency that provides trained personnel to assist in foaling barns on area farms. He lists some key traits a good foaling barn assistant should have.

“You have to be able to stay up at night and not fall asleep; it can be a disaster if you miss a mare starting to foal. Come January 1st, every year the need for people to foal watch around here is overwhelming.”

Horse Show Announcer

JOB DESCRIPTION: Impart knowledge, entertain spectators, and direct traffic, all over a microphone. An announcer must have extensive knowledge of equestrian sports in general, as well as the particular discipline or breed at a show, and also have familiarity with the rule books involved.

You must be able to multitask and keep a cool head even when things are chaotic; be comfortable using a microphone and electronic sound equipment; and be able to speak in a clear, concise and pleasant manner. And while a college degree in certain areas could provide useful skills, it’s not required for this horse career. Some announcers also provide their own sound equipment to the show as part of their fee. Good people skills and a flexible, quick-thinking nature are important for this job.

WHERE TO FIND JOB TRAINING: Go to large shows/events and observe professional announcers at work; intern with a professional announcer. Volunteer to announce at schooling shows to gain experience. Classes in public speaking, acting, auctioneering or broadcast journalism can all help prepare someone for a career in announcing.

JOB OUTLOOK/AVAILABILITY: Landing an announcing gig at top-level shows and events can be quite competitive, but there are often openings at local shows and events. Working as an assistant to an established professional is also a possibility.

TIPS FROM AN INDUSTRY EXPERT: A native of Devon, England, Nigel Casserley has been “the voice” of a number of FEI-level eventing competitions around North America, as well as FEI-level driving and dressage, the 1996 Olympic Games in Atlanta, and Grade I steeplechase racing. He offers the following advice for anyone interested in this career.

“You have to know the sport and have knowledge of those who are competing in it. When I started announcing, I created rider ‘bio’ sheets for them to fill out. The most important thing is not to get flustered. You have to learn to temper what you are receiving from the other end of a radio and not let it show over the microphone. A great horse show announcer gives the most information in the fewest number of words. And you must be blessed with a voice that amplifies well.”

Tack Repair and Saddle Fitting

JOB DESCRIPTION: Work with leather and other materials using hand and machine tools to create and repair saddles, bridles and other leather goods. Saddle fitters use evaluation methods and tools to properly fit saddles to the horse and rider.

Both career paths must have good powers of observation and a working knowledge of horse conformation. Good hand-eye coordination is important for working with the tools. A nice set of hand tools and a leather sewing machine can rack up an investment of as much as $5,000 to $8,000, although a basic set of tools and a stitcher for repairs could be purchased for closer to $2,000 to $3,000.

WHERE TO FIND JOB TRAINING: The North American Saddlery School in Warfordsburg, Penn., offers several levels of classes in saddle and bridle making and repairs, as well as saddle fitting, with the chance for participants to become certified at each level, with the ultimate goal of achieving either a Master Saddler or Master Saddle Fitter designation through the United Kingdom Society of Master Saddler’s guild system.

Another option is to apprentice with an experienced saddle maker. There are also other saddle-fitting experts who offer training sessions in saddle fitting, such as Jochen Schleese of Schleese Saddlery.

JOB AVAILABILITY: There is a demand for tack repair and tack-fitting services in North America. Saddle making takes more of a time commitment and investment and is harder to break into than repairs and fitting.

TIPS FROM INDUSTRY EXPERTS: Annette Gavin, a Master Qualified Saddle Fitter and owner of HCS/USA Saddlery, is a driving force behind the North American Saddlery School.

“Our school is a hands-on, one-on-one learning process,” says Gavin. “People come many times over a few years to learn new skills, then go back to practice and do repairs and reflockings before returning to gain more experience. All courses have a certification of completion.

We train for both the English and western market. Our student body is about two-thirds women and one-third men. We have retirees and career changers, as well as young people taking our classes.”

Master saddle maker Clay Sharp of Oregon is also an accomplished farrier and has worked on many ranches across North America, giving him a vast knowledge of equines of all shapes and sizes. He and his wife Robin own Sharp Saddlery, where they have been making saddles, bridles, and other leather goods for over 20 years. Sharp has also taught clinics on saddle fitting and tree making.

“A lot of people tend to focus on the artistry of a saddle, but I think the mechanics of a saddle are far more important,” says Sharp. “We want the saddles to function 100 percent and then look pretty after that. I think a high degree of knowledge of a horse and how it moves is important. Common sense, experience and the ability to learn are also important elements in saddle making. A saddle maker should always be striving to make a better product.”

This article on finding a second horse career that doesn’t require a degree appeared in the January 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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