When I was a kid, I loved trail riding and had a weekly English lesson. My mom handled most of the logistics—she bought my horse and saddle, took care of his farrier appointments, feeding, and even mucking stalls. I’d just show up for my lessons, load him up for trail rides, and hop in the truck. I never really thought about the “details” of horseback riding.

Now that I’m an adult and have the chance to write articles like this, I’m learning so much. First off, I learned that my mom spoiled me rotten! I also learned that I never took the time to dive into all the parts of a saddle. Sure, I knew the horn was for hanging on when things got a little wild, and the stirrups were where my feet went, but that was about it. The amazing thing about horses is that there’s always something new to learn.

At our local 4-H fair this year, the judge had the riders dismount and asked them trivia questions, including some about saddles. Only one of the 4-H kids could answer her questions. So, if you’re nearby and might encounter this judge in the future, keep reading—you’ll be all set for her.

I’m going to walk you through what I’ve learned about each part of the western saddle.

Saddle Horn

A saddle horn is a prominent feature on a western saddle, and it’s not just there for you to hang on to when your horse gets a little too spirited. There are various shapes and sizes of horns, each designed for specific uses. For instance, trail riding and reining saddles typically have large, round horns, while cutting and barrel racing saddles feature thinner, taller horns. Roping saddles have thick, wrapped horns that help maintain control over heavy livestock. On the other hand, English-style saddles, like dressage and hunt seat saddles, don’t have a horn at all. This is because English riding involves fewer sharp turns, so riders don’t need that extra grip for balance. Each style serves its purpose, reflecting the unique demands of the riding discipline.

Think About It: It’s always best to use a mounting block to reduce strain on a horse’s back. However, if you need to mount from the ground, make sure to position yourself alongside the horse, facing the saddle. Use your horse’s mane for support and avoid pulling on the saddle horn. This approach helps keep your saddle from slipping and ensures a smoother mounting process for both you and your horse.

Pommel/Swell/Fork

The pommel is the front part of the saddle, and its shape and size can vary depending on the saddle’s intended use. In a western saddle, the pommel helps prevent the rider from sliding forward. In contrast, English saddles typically feature a lower pommel, which offers a different riding experience suited to their style.

Gullet

The gullet is the space beneath the pommel, positioned just above the horse’s withers. The design of the pommel and the angle of the bars on the saddle tree determine the gullet’s height and shape. When shopping for a saddle, it’s crucial to use a gullet gauge to measure your horse and find the right size.

Think About It: Wearing a backpack with straps that are too tight or too loose while loaded with books would be uncomfortable. An ill-fitting saddle can lead to similar issues, potentially causing behavior problems in your horse. Always ensure your saddle fits properly. There are many helpful videos online that can guide you on measuring your horse and saddle, but the best approach is to consult a saddle fitter for expert advice.

Also Read: Western Saddle Fit Made Simple

Seat Rise

The seat rise is the raised portion of the seat located directly behind the pommel. This incline helps riders maintain proper position in the saddle, providing additional support and stability while riding. A well-designed seat rise can enhance comfort and aid in effective communication with your horse.

The Seat

The seat is the lowest part of the saddle where the rider sits. It’s a crucial component for comfort and balance while riding. If you ever find yourself in a saddle trivia situation, this is one question you’ll definitely want to get right!

Saddle Fitting Tip: When searching for a new saddle, it’s just as important to ensure it fits you well. Use an online saddle fitting calculator or consult with a saddle fitter to determine the appropriate length for your saddle. Once you have an idea, be sure to try out different options to find the one that feels most comfortable for you.

Cantle

The cantle is the back part of the saddle, and its height can vary based on the saddle’s intended use. For example, ranch and cutting saddles often feature a higher cantle to provide back support, helping to keep the rider securely in place during fast movements. In contrast, trail and show saddles typically have a lower cantle, allowing for more freedom of movement.

Skirt

The skirt is the material at the back of the saddle, behind the seat. It provides stability and helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight. Western saddles come in various skirt shapes and lengths, so it’s important to ensure the skirt fits your horse properly. Additionally, always use a saddle pad that complements the skirt for optimal comfort.

Front Cinch

The front cinch is the thicker strap that keeps the saddle securely in place. In English saddles, this is called a girth.

Saddle Fitting Tip: It’s essential to have the correct size cinch for your horse, as there are sensitive nerves along the belly and sides. You want to avoid any direct pressure from knots or buckles along these areas. Also, if you ride both western and English, keep in mind that the cinch and girth will be different lengths since they buckle at different places.

Front & Rear Rigging/D-Ring

These metal pieces are where your latigo and billet connect to the saddle, providing stability and support for the cinch.

Latigo

The latigo is the leather or nylon strap that connects the cinch to the saddle. You can tie it in a knot for security, or if it has holes, use it with the cinch’s buckle.

Strap Holder/Billet Keeper

After securing your latigo with a buckle or knot, pull the excess strap through the strap holder or billet keeper to keep it off the ground.

Back Cinch/Billet Strap

Some riders use a back cinch, while others don’t. It helps prevent the saddle from bouncing which protects the horse’s lower back. If you use a back cinch, there should be about an inch of space between it and the horse’s belly. You can also connect a cinch hobble between the front and back cinch to keep it secure and prevent it from sliding into the horse’s flank.

Fender

The fender is what you adjust to “change the length of your stirrups.” It connects the stirrup to the saddle and is wide enough to keep your legs from touching the horse’s sides.

Pro Tip: If you’re using a leather saddle, it’s a good idea to keep the leather conditioned to maintain the flexibility of the fenders. This can help improve your comfort while riding. Additionally, there are videos online that demonstrate alternative methods for twisting the leather straps in the back, which can help keep the fender turned outward and reduce pressure on your legs.

Stirrup

The stirrup is where you rest your feet, helping you mount your horse and providing stability while riding.

Saddle Fitting Tip: When it comes to stirrups, there are various sizes and shapes designed to complement different riding disciplines. It’s important to choose stirrups that properly fit your feet to ensure safety, comfort, and stability while riding. A good fit will enhance your overall riding experience and help you maintain better control.

Hobble Strap/Stirrup Strap

This strap, made of leather or nylon, wraps around the fender at the bottom to keep your stirrup in place.

Tie-Down Straps/Conchos

These straps at the back of the saddle can be used to tie up saddle bags or simply for decoration. The conchos are the silver pieces that the straps are connected to.

Breast Collar/Breastplate

While not technically part of the saddle, the breastplate fits around your horse’s chest and connects to the saddle. It helps prevent the saddle from sliding backward, especially when going uphill or jumping. This added stability is important for maintaining a secure fit while riding in more strenuous conditions.

Pro Tip: A neck strap helps keep the breast collar off the shoulder and provides an extra place to hang on to if your horse gets a little wild.

Whew, that’s a lot to take in! I’ve always found that using new vocabulary in everyday situations really helps me remember what those words mean. You don’t have to tackle it all at once—start slow. Pick three terms from this article that you didn’t know before, and when you saddle up your horse this week, say them out loud as you go.

If you don’t have a horse to saddle or just want some extra practice, here is a quiz you can try to test your knowledge of western saddle parts. See answers at the bottom of this page.

Parts of a Western Saddle Quiz

1. What is the primary purpose of the saddle horn in a western saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide grip during riding
c) To tie ropes
d) B and C

2. Which type of saddle typically features a lower pommel?

a) Western saddle
b) Dressage saddle
c) Roping saddle
d) Barrel racing saddle

3. What does the gullet refer to in a saddle?

a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
b) The back part of the saddle
c) The part where you rest your feet
d) The leather strap connecting the cinch

4. Why is it important to have the correct size front cinch?

a) To keep your stirrups in place
b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
c) To enhance the saddle’s appearance
d) All of the above

5. What is the role of the seat rise in a saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide back support
c) To maintain proper riding position
d) To hold the stirrups

6. Which part of the saddle helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight?

a) Cantle
b) Skirt
c) Gullet
d) Fender

7. What is the function of the latigo?

a) To connect the saddle to the stirrup
b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
c) To adjust the height of the cantle
d) To keep the saddle pad in place

8. How can a back cinch benefit the rider and horse?

a) It adds extra decoration
b) It provides a place to hang equipment
c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
d) It makes mounting easier

9. What is a common use for tie-down straps on a saddle?

a) To secure the saddle to the horse
b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
c) To connect the stirrups
d) To adjust the seat height

10. What is a breastplate’s primary function?

a) To make the saddle look nice
b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward
c) To provide additional storage
d) To help with dismounting

Answers:

1. d) All of the above
2. b) Dressage saddle
3. a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
4. b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
5. c) To maintain proper riding position
6. b) Skirt
7. b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
8. c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
9. b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
10. b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward

This article about parts of a western saddle is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Complete Guide to Parts of a Western Saddle — Plus a Quiz appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A good-fitting saddle with bars making even contact is shown. You can use your hand to feel under the saddle (without pad or cinch) to make sure the bars don’t bridge or pinch. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

Saddle fit doesn’t have to be stressful. To make sure that a western saddle fits your horse well, keep in mind that you want it to make as much contact as possible around the horse’s back so that it can distribute weight well.

Darrell Nephew’s mission is to help horse owners find saddles that fit well without endless research and worry. He began crafting saddles in the 1980s, and is now executive vice president of Circle Y Saddles. He apprenticed with Tucker Saddles founder Steve Tucker and built over 1,000 saddles before taking the helm at a company dedicated to saddle fit.

Nephew acknowledges that some horses are trickier to fit than others, but he says most horses can easily fit into the common tree-type categories.

“The No. 1 reason people have saddle fit problems is they overthink it,” Nephew says. “It’s easy to worry about your horse and worry that you’re inadvertently doing something to hurt him. But saddle fit doesn’t have to be hard.”

The first step to making sure your horse is comfortable is taking the time to learn about fit. Here, Nephew guides you through the process so that you can ensure your western saddle fits—or find a saddle that does.

Share Your Story with a Saddle Fitter

If you’re looking for a new saddle or want to make sure yours fits well, Nephew suggests starting with your story. Talk to a saddle fitter or local dealer and tell them about your horse.

“Most horses can fit into a ‘normal’ saddle type, and saddle fitters know which horses usually fit the categories,” he says. “It’s a good place to start. Instead of going in and giving lots of measurements, tell them about your horse. I would say that I have a 15-year-old horse that’s starting to lose a little bit of his back. He’s a bit wide. I ride about 10 hours a week. With that info, the fitter can pull a few saddles for you to put on your horse and try.”

When he’s helping horse owners find saddles, Nephew says he first asks if the rider is currently noticing a problem with the fit. If so, he wants to know what you’re noticing.

Let the fitter know if your horse has white spots on his haircoat (a sign of a saddle that applied too much pressure to specific spots over a long time). Sometimes, white spots may be from a poor fitting saddle many years before.

Also report if you have noticed dry spots under your saddle pad when the rest of the back is wet with sweat. That’s a sign that the horse’s back may need some extra padding to fill in where a saddle is bridging (not touching all points along the bars). Sometimes finding the right pad or using a shim pad can help your western saddle fit well. Keep in mind, however, that padding a saddle that’s too narrow will just add pressure to your horse and make him feel worse.

Dry spots in the sweat under the saddle indicate poor saddle fit and may require padding or a new saddle. Photo courtesy Circle Y Saddles

Next, Nephew asks what tree type you’re using or the horse last had. If your horse fit well in a certain width of tree in the past, that’s a good starting point.

Then he asks, “Is your horse pretty normal?” While “normal” is a subjective term on its own, Nephew uses it here to refer to typical conformation. If the horse is fairly symmetrical, has an average wither, and has a fairly level back, he will most likely fit in a saddle made to fit the majority of horses.

There are always exceptions, of course, and some horses may require some padding or aid to fit well in a “normal” saddle, but a custom tree is rarely needed.

“Normal” Trees

A saddle tree showing bars making proper, even contact. Photo courtesy Circle Y Saddles

The saddle’s tree is the strong material, usually wood, that holds the saddle together. On the horse, the tree’s bars make contact with the horse’s back. They’re angled to comfortably sit along the horse’s topline so they can distribute your weight evenly onto your horse’s back. The fit of the saddle, for the horse, comes down to the tree and the bars.

For most western saddles, trees fall into two common types: semi-quarter horse bars or quarter horse bars. Semi-quarter horse bars, also known as “regular,” describe trees designed for horses with a defined wither and a refined build.

Quarter Horse bars, also known as “wide,” usually fit stocky horses with round or flat backs. You may also see gaited and draft horse-specific fits. Keep in mind that the horse’s height doesn’t impact the needed tree type—it’s all about fitting the shape that runs the 9 inches behind the horse’s withers.

The 9 inches behind the horse’s withers will determine the shape of tree needed. A “normal” type of back is shown. Photo courtesy Circle Y Saddles

These categories are helpful as a starting place as you choose which tree types will fit your horse. However, there is no industry standard for how different companies name the bar angles. For each saddle you look at, you’ll need to make sure it fits on your horse.

Nephew says that all the saddle companies strive to make a saddle that helps horses.

“They’re all trying to fit a ‘normal’ horse,” he says. “But every company has a different idea of what normal is. I equate it to shopping for a man’s shirt. Lots of different shirt companies want to fit a man with a certain build. If I’m shopping for a medium shirt, some brands of shirts might be tighter or looser, but overall they fit a medium build. Saddles are the same way. The tree types are trying to fit the most common horses.”

Gullet Guide

Nephew says many horse owners worry about the gullet more than necessary. The gullet is the opening between the bars of the saddle, but it doesn’t determine the bar angles or width of the tree.

“If you’re trying to measure the gullet on a finished saddle, it’s very difficult,” Nephew says. “You just want to make sure the withers have clearance, even when there’s weight in the saddle. Whether there’s 6 inches of clearance or 2 inches of clearance doesn’t matter for most riders. It’s more important to put the saddle on the horse and see how the bars make contact.”

Saddle Fit Concerns

Nephew says it’s never bad to get your horse measured by a saddle fitter. However, he likes to place saddles on the horse to check the fit instead of purely relying on measurements.

If you have noticed a change in your horse’s back because of his age, exercise levels or diet, it may be good to have him measured. Horses’ backs can change when their fitness changes. You’ll also want to know if your horse is short-coupled (has a short back) and may need a saddle that is also short so that it doesn’t sit far onto his hips.

A short-coupled horse will need a shorter saddle to make sure the weight doesn’t sit too far down the horse’s back. Photo by Heidi Nyland Melocco

It’s a good idea to look at your saddle and feel where the bars are contacting your horse’s sides at the start and middle of your riding season so you can see if any changes occur.

Try It Out

Start by trying the saddle on your horse without a pad. Nephew advises learning what to see. A level saddle that doesn’t make contact at the withers is a good place to start as you train your eye.

“Saddle fitting is really just being visual and using your touch,” Nephew says. “The first thing I’m looking for is to make sure the saddle makes good contact where the bar is. I’ll take my hand and feel under the saddle close to the horse’s wither. I’m looking there to see if I make some contact from top to bottom of the bar. If you have to guess, then it’s probably making contact. It’s really obvious when it’s not—you can put your hand under the saddle too easily.”

First, try the saddle without a pad. You’ll know that it’s too narrow if you can see a few inches of fleece under the gullet. Photo courtesy Circle Y Saddles

Nephew says after he feels the saddle’s bars, he steps back and looks at the length of the saddle compared to the horse’s back. He wants to make sure that the saddle is level and that it doesn’t look like it’s making contact only at the front and back.

If the saddle is too narrow for the horse, it will sit high on the horse’s back with a “perched” look. Nephew says you can see this easily by looking at the front of the saddle. If you can see 4 to 5 inches of fleece under the gullet, that’s too much, and the saddle isn’t sitting down far enough. This will make the horse feel pinched and will cause the bars to dig into the horse’s back.

If the saddle is too wide for the horse, the gullet may be too close to the withers and the bars won’t touch the horse’s sides. This can also cause the saddle to pinch because specific points touch the horse, but the bars don’t even touch the horse’s back.

A saddle that’s too wide will sit too close to the withers with the bars not making contact (left); too narrow and the bars will pinch the horse’s back (right).

Nephew advises trying out a few different saddles after you tell a fitter or dealer about your horse.

“The fitter can give you a good place to start, and you can see what looks and feels best on your horse. Make sure you can try a saddle for a few days so that you can ride and see what happens with the saddle in motion. The burden of finding the best fit is always with the horse owner—you’re the one who knows your horse best and knows how he feels to ride.”

Further Reading:
◆ Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting
◆ Get the Right Western Saddle Fit
◆ 5 Tips for Western Saddle Fit

This article about western saddle fit appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Western Saddle Fit Made Simple appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Proper saddle fit can improve your horse’s mobility which enables better performance. Photo courtesy Ranch Dress’n

Get Started with Saddle Fit

There are a thousand things that affect saddle fit, but the team at Tacktical can help make it simpler.

The easiest way to fit your horse for a saddle at home without specialized tools is with a wire hanger. Bend the hanger in half and manipulate it until it will fit over your horse’s withers.

One easy way to fit your horse for a saddle at home is by using a wire hanger. Photo courtesy Ranch Dress’n

Start at your horse’s withers and set the bent hanger three to four inches back to find where saddle will rest. Spread the hanger apart until it sits evenly over his withers lip it down over your horse’s back leaving just a little bit of clearance, then put your finger where it first makes contact on both sides of the horse. Remove the hanger and measure the distance between those two points to determine the optimal bar size for your horse.

You can also measure your current saddle’s gullet to give insight on the ideal bar size you’re your horse. A standard gullet is measured from concho to concho on the inside of the saddle, so it can be a little tricky to measure accurately at home.

For more details on saddle fitting at home, check out this video with Fallon Taylor, pro barrel racer and founder of Tacktical.

Shimming a Saddle

The same measuring technique can help you figure out what size shim you need to use a saddle with bars that are too big for your horse. If you know your saddle has standard quarter horse bars, and your horse measures six inches from point of contact to point of contact, you will need an inch shim to achieve proper fit.

A simple saddle shim (or even a towel) can help you switch between horses without the need for a custom fitted saddle. Another option to consider is using a Tacktical Balanced Buildup Pad to help improve fit. This pad is ideal for those horses with narrow shoulders or a high, hard-to-fit wither. They work well under your favorite treeless saddle but can also fit under any western saddle.

Finding the correct saddle pad can help ensure your horse has optimal saddle fit. Photo courtesy Ranch Dress’n

These pads are designed to give your horse relief from the rigging placement and help a hard-to-fit horse get more comfort and balanced weight distribution.

Why Saddle Fit Matters

You might wonder if properly fitting your horse’s saddle is really that important. Consider it this way: when your horse runs freely in the pasture or roundpen, his shoulder muscles move back and forth with every stride. A poorly fitting saddle can restrict movement in that area, which can result in short, choppy strides or inconsistent movement.

The goal is for your saddle to sit evenly with zero play in the front or the back. Photo courtesy Ranch Dress’n

If a saddle’s gullet is too big for your horse, the saddle will shift forward onto his shoulders, hindering movement. If the saddle rocks back, it can create pressure in the back on the lumbar.

That’s not even taking into consideration the pressure that may be on your horse’s back from the saddle’s rigging. Not all riggings are created equal. The Tacktical rigging distributes the pressure of the latigo and off billet evenly on both sides. Tacktical’s variety of skirt options, including the spin relief skirt, can also help your horse’s balance and overall performance.

Other signs of poor fit include dry spots when you remove a sweaty pad and depression of the wither muscles. Improper fit can be the cause of a horse’s inability to perform at his highest level.

A well-fitting saddle can improve your horse’s performance. Photo courtesy Ranch Dress’n

The goal is for your saddle to sit evenly with zero play in the front or the back. This can help eliminate performance issues, from stride limitations to attitude issues caused by your horse feeling uncomfortable.

Shop Tacktical’s full line of stock saddles and check out Tacktical’s custom line.

The post Finding the Perfect Saddle Fit for Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Abigail Boatwright

Riding your horse in a saddle that doesn’t fit you is at best uncomfortable and at worst dangerous for both you and your horse. While a properly fitted saddle for your horse is crucial, it’s also important to make sure that it fits you as well. AQHA Professional Horseman Allen Walton shares several checkpoints to make sure you’re sitting pretty in your well-fitting western saddle.

Why is Saddle Fit Important?

Walton says your saddle needs to fit you correctly so you can be balanced and ride with precision. A too-small saddle will hamper your movement.

“As you ride, you’re trying to move with your horse all the time,” Walton says. “It would be just like an adult sitting in a child’s chair.”

Conversely, Walton says a saddle that is too big will put your feet too far in front of you, causing you to be off balance.

Finding Your Fit

Lots of factors play into a saddle fitting you correctly: your height, length of leg, torso and weight. The type of saddle and events in which you participate are also factors. Walton uses roping saddles as an example.

A too-small saddle will constrict your movement, preventing you from being as effective as possible. Photo by Abigail Boatwright

“Ropers nowadays typically ride in saddles that are very short-seated so they can get their feet behind them to stand up when they leave the box,” says Walton. “But when it comes to riding for a few hours at a time or doing different events, a saddle with a seat that’s too short is terribly uncomfortable. And when it’s uncomfortable for the rider, and the rider’s not in position, it’s uncomfortable for the horse.”

If you want to do more than one event, generally you’ll want to ride in a medium-fitting saddle, which Walton says is most often a 15-inch or 16-inch seat, unless you’re doing an event like cutting, where you’ll need a longer seat.

“If your seat is too short, it’s going to be uncomfortable because your legs are going to be too far back, pressing into the swells of the saddle,” Walton says. “And if the seat is too long, you’ll be in a stretched-out position, with your feet out in front of you, and you’ll be sitting too far back on your seat bones.”

Stirrups adjusted to be too short can be uncomfortable and push you off balance. Photo by Abigail Boatwright

The shape of the seat also depends on your sport. Riders doing cutting look for a flat seat, which leaves room for movement without hampering the horse as he makes quick turns. Reining or western pleasure riders prefer a saddle with a rise in the front of the seat.

Getting the Right Stirrup Length

Your stirrup length should be adjustable so the fenders won’t place your feet too far forward or back. Lengthwise, your goal should be alignment, no matter what event you’re pursuing.

“You want a line from your shoulder through your hips to your heels, in most cases,” Walton says. “If your stirrups are too long, your center of gravity—your base and your support—will be off, because you can tip forward and backward more easily than if your stirrups were a little shorter.”

Stirrups that are too long will negatively affect your riding position by putting your body out of alignment. Photo by Abigail Boatwright

If your stirrups are too short, they can inhibit leg movement and your cues. You’ll also find yourself off balance, and your legs will be cramped.

When your foot is in the stirrup, Walton says your ankle and knee shouldn’t feel cramped if you’re accustomed to riding regularly.

Saddle fit, saddles and people have many variations. But the ultimate goal for saddle fit for you, as the rider, is balance. The saddle should allow you to ride the horse, not just the saddle.

Meet the Expert Photo by Abigail Boatwright Allen Walton is an American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) Professional Horseman located in Bluff Dale, Texas, with his wife, Bobbie, who is the director of the Tarleton State University Equine Center. Well-versed in many events, Walton trains and rides in cutting, reining, reined cow horse, roping, and ranch and stock horse classes. He’s competed at events such as the National Cutting Horse Association Futurity, the AQHA World Championship Show, the National Reined Cow Horse Association’s (NRCHA) World’s Greatest Horseman competition and Senior Steer Roping Finals. Walton holds judges’ cards for AQHA, the NRCHA and the American Paint Horse Association. He has judged the AQHA World Championship Show several times, as well as the AQHA Versatility Ranch Horse World Show, the Stock Horse of Texas Championships and the American Stock Horse Association National Championship.

This article on western saddle fit appeared in the March 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Get the Right Western Saddle Fit appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Photo by Kimberlee Bray/Shutterstock

Western Bridle

Illustration by Susan Harris/Courtesy Certified Horsemanship Association

Western Saddle

Illustration by Susan Harris/Courtesy Certified Horsemanship Association

Answer Key

Bridle: 1. Shaped Earpiece; 2. Crownpiece; 3. Throatlatch; 4. Rein; 5. Curb Bit; 6. Cheek Piece; 7. Curb Strap
Saddle: 1. Gullet; 2. Horn; 3. Pommel; 4. Swell; 5. Seat; 6. Cantle; 7. Rear Jockey; 8. Concho; 9. Saddle Strings; 10. Fender; 11. Rear Cinch Strap; 12. Stirrup; 13. Long Latigo; 14. Cinch; 15. Short Latigo; 16. Seat Jockey; 17. Latigo Keeper

Photo by Anastasija Popova/Shutterstock

English Bridle

Illustration by Susan Harris/Courtesy Certified Horsemanship Association

English Saddle

Illustration by Susan Harris/Courtesy Certified Horsemanship Association

Answer Key

Bridle: 1. Crownpiece; 2. Throatlatch; 3. Cheek Piece; 4. Reins; 5. Snaffle Bit; 6. Cavesson (Noseband); 7. Browband
Saddle: 1. Gullet; 2. Pommel; 3. Seat; 4. Cantle; 5. Panel; 6. Skirt; 7. Pad; 8. Flap; 9. Stirrup Leather; 10. Stirrup Iron; 11. Girth; 12. Knee Roll; 13. Stirrup Bar Or Safety Latch; Under Flap: 14. Buckle Guard; 15. Billet

This article about parts of a saddle and bridle for English and western riding appeared in the January/February 2020 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Parts of the Saddle and Bridle appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

1. Tree Spread and Angle

When viewed from the front, the spread and slope of the skirts should be an exact match to the shape of your horse. Any narrowing, especially in the area around the withers or behind the shoulders, is a sign of poor fit.

The saddle should retain its shape once you’re mounted and for the duration of the ride.

2. Fork Height and Gullet Width

A well-fitting saddle will never make contact with your horse’s withers or spine. With your saddle set directly on your horse’s back without a pad, make sure you can place two to three vertical fingers between your horse’s withers and the fork.

Next, slide your hand down the gullet to check the clearance as far as you can reach. Visualize the gullet channel from the back of the saddle as well to confirm your horse’s spine is pressure-free from front to back.

3. Levelness

When the saddle is in the correct position, with the front edge of the tree (not the front skirt, which is flexible leather) sitting in the wither pocket behind the shoulder blade, the bottom edge of the skirt should be parallel to the ground.

A saddle that isn’t level will distribute pressure unevenly on your horse’s back, cause him discomfort, and throw off his balance. Riding in a saddle that tilts forward or back will also affect your balance and make your ride far less comfortable.

4. Centered Riding Position

A well-designed seat and correct stirrup placement will help you ride in balance with your horse. The lowest part of the seat should be centered between the fork (pommel) and cantle, so you’re sitting as close as possible to your horse’s center of gravity and where his back is strongest.

The stirrups should naturally hang vertically below your leg, making it as easy as possible to maintain correct shoulder, hip and heel alignment.

5. The Right Size for You

Your western saddle is the right seat size for you if you can place three fingers between your thigh and the swell of the saddle and a vertical hand between your seat and the cantle.

A seat that is too small will limit your ability to use your seat and legs to communicate your horse. Too large a saddle will require extra effort to consistently maintain a centered and balanced position.

DALE RUDIN is a CHA-certified riding instructor and clinician with a mindful and balanced approach to horsemanship and riding. www.un-naturalhorsemanship.com

This article originally appeared in the December 2016 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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