Groundwork Exercise 1: Longeing

Longeing can be used to develop engagement, build stamina, and enhance your horse’s range of motion. To longe your horse correctly, follow these steps.

1. Clip your line to the side of a halter or use a longeing cavesson. 

Note: For safety reasons, avoid attaching a longe line directly to a bit. The line can pull too harshly on the bit, potentially causing harm to the horse’s mouth.

2. Avoid a continuous hard hold on the line whenever possible. Too much tugging and contact creates tension and unbalances your horse.

3. Make your circle as large as possible to reduce strain on your horse’s joints. Break up the circle with straight lines occasionally by letting your horse travel slightly ahead of you while you walk forward and parallel to him.

4. Your horse’s body should mirror the shape of the path he’s following. If he’s on a straight line, his spine should be straight from poll to tail. Conversely, he’s only able to travel in comfort and balance on a bend if the arc of his body is uniform.

If your horse isn’t able to maintain proper alignment, he may not understand the concept or be balanced enough. Give him a hand by leading him on a straight line until he can walk with his body in alignment for several strides on a loose lead.

Next, switch back to longeing for a few strides, then back to straight-line leading and so on, until he can hold it on his own.

Groundwork Exercise 2: Ground Poles

To develop impulsion, improve posture, and increase flexibility, try laying down some ground poles. Better yet, use landscape timbers (square-shaped poles) because they won’t roll if your horse bumps or steps on them.

1. Start with one pole to introduce your horse’s brain and body to the idea of stepping over something on the ground. Any new movement needs to be introduced slowly to avoid causing emotional stress or physical strain.

2. Build up to two or three evenly spaced poles at a distance that is comfortable for your horse. A 3-foot span works for most horses at the walk, and 4 feet for the trot.

3. Take your horse over the center of the poles. Again, it’s important that his head, neck, and body are in alignment so he’s using his muscles symmetrically.

4. When your horse is ready for a greater challenge, increase the number of poles. You can also add height by alternately elevating the ends of the poles slightly.

Groundwork Exercise 3: Backing Up

Backing up is a deceptively simple yet useful exercise for activating your horse’s hindquarters, core, and back.

1. Back your horse with his head straight and his neck in a neutral position. Cue him by applying light alternating pressure on the lead, rocking his weight back and forth until he takes a step.

2. If he moves his head toward his chest instead of moving his feet, rhythmically press your fingertips against his chest at the same time.

3. Start with one or two steps at a time, slowly building to eight to 10 steps.

4. Once your horse can easily back several strides without crookedness, increase the intensity by reversing him on a slight incline.

Groundwork Exercise 4: Bands

Proprioception bands help restore healthy patterns of movement by bringing awareness to the areas of the body that they are in contact with. These bands are strips of slightly stretchy fabric that do wonders for developing engagement, symmetry, and range of motion.

There are bands available that are specifically made to use on horses, or you can stop by your local pharmacy and purchase long, wide elastic bandages. Standing or polo wraps work too.

To activate the hindquarters, a band can be placed behind your horse’s rear legs, while his core can be engaged by wrapping a band around his midsection.

Proprioception bands may feel odd to your horse, so introduce them slowly. Use them for short periods of time at first to give his body a chance to acclimate to them.

Groundwork Exercise 5: Carrot Stretches

Stationary mobility exercises, AKA carrot stretches, are great for developing stabilization and core muscles. They also loosen tight fascia for better comfort and improved flexibility.

These exercises don’t require a lot of time or space. A routine of three to five movements can be completed in 10 minutes.

Useful stretches include chin to chest, nose to knees, and nose to fetlocks. Flexing the head and neck to the side activates muscles that stabilize spinal vertebrae so your horse can have a stronger more comfortable back.

Key Takeaway

Next time you don’t want to tack up, turn to groundwork to improve your horse’s fitness and quality of life. These five exercises may seem simple, but remember: the basics are the cornerstone of your horse’s training.

This article about groundwork exercises for horses appeared in the January/February 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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The Ups & Downs of Boarding Your Horse

Hiring someone else to deal with the heavy lifting of horse care may sound like the “easier” option, but you may have limited say in how your horse is cared for and handled. The facilities may not be up to your standards, and you may or not be comfortable with barn policies or the services they provide.

While there are exemplary boarding facilities that place your horse’s welfare first and run their business with absolute integrity, there are also those that will cause you sleepless nights as you wonder whether your horse has enough water, if a loose fence board is going to cause an injury, or if someone is riding your horse without your consent.

When you board, you are basically renting space for your horse to live in someone else’s “home.” Your monthly payment should include safe housing; a low-stress environment; opportunities to run, play, socialize, and rest; shelter from inclement weather; access to quality forage; a balanced diet; and fresh, clean water. Generally speaking: a good quality of life; check out the Five Freedoms for equine welfare here.

You can increase the odds of finding a safe and suitable place for your horse with a bit of preparation and effort. Start with a complete list of all your must-haves before you meet with the farm manager.

Be picky! If your horse needs a dry lot in the spring, his hooves cleaned regularly, and a specific type of hay, find out if those services are available. Also ask for references from current and past boarders for a clearer perspective of day-to-day goings on.

Discuss fees up front. Some farms have a flat boarding rate with add-ons for additional services, such as holding horses during vet and farrier care. They may have policies regarding general health care, such as worming and vaccinations, that you’ll be required to follow.

Winter blanketing could be another added expense, and with the high cost of feed these days, the cold weather may also mean hay surcharges.

Ask questions about what your horse’s daily routine will be. Will he be turned out with other horses? Will it be a compatible herd group?

Some farms leave horses in whenever it rains, which can add up to several days in a stall, while others leave them out, no matter the weather.

Know when feeding time is, too, so you can plan your barn time around when your horse is happily eating instead of fretting about him missing a meal. Learn how barn management handles illness and injuries, too.

Former home horsekeeper Cindy Peden of Chapel Hill, Tenn., decided boarding was the right option for her in terms of overall enjoyment and peace of mind.

“While I miss having my girls right out my back door, boarding them has greatly reduced my stress level and allows me more time to just enjoy them,” she says. “I have more flexibility and freedom to do things like travel and spend time with family and friends. I have a wonderful boarding situation where I know my girls are well taken care of, and I get to see them often.”

Special Requirements to Consider

Feeding is one of the biggest worries for horse owners, and no two boarding barns do it the same. Some include supplemental feed in the cost of boarding. Others charge extra for anything in addition to hay or available pasture, while some won’t provide anything outside of forage and water.

If your horse is on a special diet, you may have to purchase the feed yourself. Try offering to pre-mix and bag your horse’s meals to make it faster and easier for the farm staff. Special requests do have an impact on farm routines, and may be impossible to meet or require an additional fee.

You may also find the barn is strict about what’s on the menu and unwilling to give your horse anything other than what they already offer, regardless of what he needs or you want him to have.

You may need to supplement your own hay at times, too, which can be difficult if your horse has pasture mates—you’ll have to pull him out of the field and wait while he eats.

Be upfront about all of your horse’s special requirements and quirks. That will give farm management the best chance at doing a good job for you and your horse. Ideally, the facility will provide a contract or agreement that details your horse’s needs, the farm’s obligations, and your responsibilities so everyone knows what to expect.

You deserve to have a great experience where your horse resides, so make sure the vibe of the barn suits you, too. If you prefer a casual culture, a competitive show barn may not be a good match. It will make your barn time happier if you find a place that’s in alignment with your sensibilities and has boarders with similar interests.

If you’re not interested in traditional boarding, but don’t own a property where your horse can dwell, look for a facility that offers “self-care.” Your monthly rent covers a space for your horse live and use of the facilities. It gives you the freedom to care for your horse as you wish, within the parameters of farm rules and regulations. It also means you’ll be responsible for feeding and cleaning, but you might be able to form a cooperative with other owners and share daily mealtimes and mucking chores.

Keeping Horses at Home

If your horse lives on your property, you have total and complete freedom. There are no rules except your own, and you’ll never have to question policy or be concerned about your horse’s well-being or care.

Oh, wait, isn’t that horses’ well-being or care? Horses are not solitary creatures. They need a herd group to feel safe, secure, and have their needs for social interaction met. One horse can, and should, quickly grow to two or even three, especially if there’s angst when one horse is left behind. The best herd mates will be other equines, but friendly farm animals can fill in, in a pinch.

Another way to increase your herd size is to invite other owners to board with you. Bringing on boarders might be a good way to offset costs, too.

It’s a common belief that having horses at home will save dough, but when it comes down to it, you might not be that far ahead. Feed, supplies, and maintenance add up—including your time and/or the price of paid help.

There are additional expenses, such as the purchase and upkeep of equipment, barn and fence repairs, and having manure hauled away if you’re unable to compost and/or spread it.

Also consider what you’ll spend on bedding, mud management, arena footing, pasture care, electricity, water, and unforeseen issues (busted pipes, insect and rodent control, tractor breakdowns, et cetera), all of which will require both your time and pocketbook to resolve.

“Having horses at home is a lot of work, more than I ever imagined,” says Ann Deklerk of Lynchburg, Tenn. “But it finally gives them true free choice, as it does me. At last, we can be on an even playing field.”

The bottom line is that wherever you house your horse, he should be safe and have all his needs met for a happy and healthy life. It should also be as stress-free for you as possible.

If your horse’s current accommodations aren’t hitting the mark, look into other options that might be a better fit. You both deserve to have great experiences and enjoy your time together to the fullest.

This article about the horsekeeping decision to keep horses at home or board them appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Dictated by Experience

Personality is a hard-wired part of your horse’s psyche. It’s a composite of genetic traits and inherent characteristics, along with that special something that makes every horse unique.

The problem with personality-typing a horse based on his actions (or inactions) is that behavior is contingent on experience. That means you’re observing how your horse responds to life versus who he is on a fundamental level.

For instance, let’s say your horse behaves aggressively around other horses. He’s labeled as having a dominant/aggressive personality. We need to look deeper to discover the true motivation behind the aggressive behavior, such as having poor social skills, feeling overwhelmed in large groups, or being bullied earlier in life.

People-pleasing, submissiveness, stubbornness, and excitability are other ways we may describe equine personalities, when in fact they are actually adaptive coping skills. While they are natural responses to stress, especially long-term distress, they are not a healthy state of being.

Appeasement behavior is often misinterpreted as people-pleasing because the horse avoids unpleasant consequences by trying really hard to do what is expected of him. Submissiveness isn’t a personality type, but horses can learn to behave submissively.

When a horse doesn’t stand up for himself, it can be simply because he lacks the motivation to do so. Imagine a horse with a carrot letting another horse take it because avoiding conflict is more appealing to him than the carrot. Another form of submissive behavior occurs when taking a stand leads to a disagreeable conclusion.

Just as often misunderstood, a horse classified as a “stubborn” personality may be reluctant to comply because of emotional distress and/or physical pain. Hoof pain, poor saddle fit, and confusing cues are enough to make any horse want to shut down and refuse to move.

You need to look beyond personality to identify the forces at work that are truly responsible for your horse’s actions. You also need to accept that you will never know with any certainty why your horse behaves the way he does. You would need to be able to read your horse’s mind to know that—a skill most of us don’t possess.

Keep a lid on speculation, too. The odds are you’ll be wrong, and acting on false assumptions can lead to detrimental consequences for you and your horse.

Questions to Ask to Determine Causes of Behavior

The closest you can get to understanding the source of your horse’s behavior is by doing your best to answer these three questions. (Results are subject to interpretation and fall under the category of somewhat educated guess.)

1. What purpose does the behavior serve?

Purpose is at the heart of everything your horse does. The question is, how does avoiding the trailer, refusing to stand at the mounting block, pawing the ground at feeding time, or kicking at the farrier get your horse what he wants or needs?

2. What is triggering the horse’s behavior?

Triggers, also known as antecedents, set behavior in motion. They are environmental (sights, sounds), internal or external physical sensations (back pain, hoof imbalance, girth sores), or connections your horse has made with previous experiences (associations).

Emotions also function as triggers, primary motivators, and responses to environmental and/or physical stimuli. An emotional trigger might be excitement about approaching food that results in pawing.

Emotionally charged memories are powerful, too. For instance, your horse can recall pain from a previous experience as he’s being asked to approach the mounting block. The closer he gets, the more anxious he feels.

His self-preservation instincts take over, and he stops in his tracks—a sensible behavioral response (and not at all personality driven) to the situation.

3. What is the consequence of the horse’s behavior?

Consequence is how your horse feels about the outcome of a behavior. Discover that, and you have a predictive tool for how he may behave in the future, especially under similar circumstances.

For instance, if the consequence of pawing is that your horse gets his bucket, he’s more likely to paw again at the next mealtime. On the other hand, if asking him to lift his left foot has an unpleasant outcome, causing pain in his right foot, it would be no surprise if future requests were met with a no.

When you understand your horse’s motivations, you are better equipped to help him feel safe, joyful and let his true personality shine through.

This article about horse behavior appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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We all love to see our horse enjoying a graze on delicious spring grass. But that pasture your horse eats with such gusto is not as benign as you might think—particularly for horses with metabolic disorders or genetic predispositions, although any horse of any breed can develop grass-related hoof issues at any time. In fact, some horses are better off avoiding the green stuff altogether. Learn how to manage your pasture and feed program to prevent founder or laminitis in your horse.

Mineral Balance

While grass contains most of the nutrients your horse needs for strong, healthy hooves, it doesn’t provide all those nutrients in the right balance or quantities. Calcium, magnesium, and sodium chloride are commonly deficient; selenium and iodine are frequently low as well.

Other vital minerals like zinc, copper, and manganese may also be present, but their levels in relationship to one another will affect how available they are to your horse. Minerals compete for absorption sites along your horse’s intestinal walls.

For example, if zinc levels are too high, they can block copper, a mineral that’s essential for maintaining the robust lamellar tissue your horse needs for his coffin bone to be properly supported within the hoof capsule. Iron is another competitive mineral that inhibits uptake of other minerals that are prevalent in grass.

Starch and Sugar Levels

Sugars and starches can be present in pasture grasses in levels that trigger a laminitic event. These nutrients are meant to be digested in the small intestine, but if your horse ingests these simple carbs in quantities greater than the small intestine can handle, the excess will continue along the digestive tract into the large intestine.

The large intestine is populated with microbes that process digestible fiber. These beneficial microbes thrive in an environment with a relatively neutral pH. If they are overrun with

sugar and starch, their home becomes so acidic they can’t survive. When they die, they release substances that are toxic to your horse.

At the same time, acid-loving microbes take over and compromise the integrity of the intestinal wall, allowing those toxins to penetrate and enter your horse’s bloodstream. When they reach the hooves, they cause the blood vessels to constrict, starving your horse’s hooves of nutrients and setting off a laminitic event.

Forage with a simple sugar (technically known as ethanol-soluble carbohydrates, or ESC) plus starch level of 10 percent or less should be low enough to keep your horse’s microbial population happy. If the levels in the grass are higher and your horse shows signs of inflammation, you will need to limit or restrict your horse’s access to pasture (find grazing muzzle options here).

Some signs that your horse may be getting too much starch and sugar from pasture include a thick, cresty neck; tender feet; a distended or more intense digital artery pulse (on your horse’s ankle); flared or ridged hoof walls; and unusual weight gain or loss.

Instead of grazing, provide low sugar/starch hay 24/7 in a slow feeder, such as a hay net with small holes or another device. To learn what the sugar and starch levels in your pasture are, have it analyzed by an agricultural lab. The report will give you the information you need to determine if your pasture is safe. If you aren’t sure how to interpret the results, an equine nutritionist can decipher the data and help you balance your horse’s diet accordingly.

Mycotoxins

If your hay’s starch and sugar levels are low and your horse’s diet is balanced, but the grass is still triggering laminitis, mycotoxins could be to blame. Mycotoxins are naturally occurring toxic compounds released by fungi that live in grass. Mycotoxins are vasoconstrictors that are absorbed quickly through the small intestine and trigger a systemic inflammatory response, which can then cause laminitis.

According to Jennifer Duringer, Ph.D., director of Oregon State University’s Endophyte Lab, there are more than 500 known mycotoxins.

“Mycotoxin levels rise and fall seasonally and are present in more grass species than was once believed,” she says. “We are currently conducting a study to identify which species are infected.”

You can combat mycotoxins by turning your horse out on a dry lot instead of a pasture, although mycotoxins can be and often are present in cured hay. If you suspect your horse is suffering from mycotoxin-induced laminitis, try removing the offending toxins with a mycotoxin binder to reduce inflammation. These can be found in certain equine feed supplements that generally contain yeast derivatives.

Keeping a laminitis or founder-prone horse on pasture can be challenging, if not impossible. Keep up the good fight against pain and discomfort by reducing grazing as needed, testing hay, and being aware of potential mycotoxins.

This article about how to feed to prevent founder appeared in the March 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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They are known as the Five Freedoms:

1. Freedom from hunger and thirst, by ready access to water and a diet to maintain health and vigour.
2. Freedom from discomfort, by providing an appropriate environment.
3. Freedom from pain, injury and disease, by prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment.
4. Freedom to express normal behaviour, by providing sufficient space, proper facilities and appropriate company of the animal’s own kind.
5. Freedom from fear and distress, by ensuring conditions and treatment that avoid mental suffering.

Do Our Horses Have Good Lives?

Certainly, there are many horses who are having wonderful life experiences with their human guardians. Unfortunately, there are also horses who suffer great harm for our pleasure.

This leads us to the question of ethics and welfare implications of some horse care and training practices. That’s a controversial topic to be sure, one we will thank the British Animal Welfare Council for taking on.

If you’re looking to improve equine welfare, The Five Freedoms is an excellent place to start.

1. Freedom from hunger and thirst, by ready access to water and a diet to maintain health and vigour.

If your horse’s water is clean, at a drinkable temperature (not too cold, frozen, nor too hot), and always accessible, that need is being well met.

What does your horse nutritionally need though to “maintain health and vigor?” 24/7 access to good-quality forage is a practical first step. Horses are meant to eat 16-18 hours every day, and periods of starvation can cause physical and mental upset.

Welfare Bonus Tip: Grass and/or hay don’t always provide all the nutrients your horse needs. Seek the help of a qualified equine nutritionist to make sure your horse’s diet is up to snuff.

2. Freedom from discomfort, by providing an appropriate environment.

There are several factors to consider when it comes to your horse’s living space. Some of the must-haves for equine welfare are safe construction, good ventilation, comfortable footing, and shelter from inclement weather.

Welfare Bonus Tip: Provide a soft, quiet area that’s large enough for your horse to lie down flat on his side with his legs fully extended to achieve deep, restorative sleep.

3. Freedom from pain, injury, and disease by prevention or rapid diagnosis and treatment.

There are quite a few ways we can reduce our horse’s chance of injury and illness. A safe environment, balanced diet, and medical intervention when necessary are obvious choices.

What’s not always on our radar are the effects we have when we work with and exercise our horse. Unhealthy patterns of movement can cause chronic discomfort, soft tissue, and joint damage, as well as emotional distress.

Welfare Bonus Tips: Use properly fitting tack; have your saddle assessed by a fitter to verify that it’s not causing damage or discomfort.

Exercise your horse in a manner that is reasonable for his age and physical fitness. Follow the principles of healthy biomechanics (relaxation, equal weight distribution from front-to-back, skeletal alignment) when you’re working with your horse on the ground or under saddle.

4. Freedom to express normal behaviour, by providing sufficient space, proper facilities and appropriate company of the animal’s own kind.

Every horse is hard-wired to move at will, investigate the environment, seek social interactions, roll, buck, run, play, rest, and eat.

Those who are deprived of these choices are more likely to develop depression, anxiety, aggression, digestive disorders, stereotypies, and unpredictable behavior.

Welfare Bonus Tips: While 24/7 turn out with friends is the ideal, it’s not always possible in the modern world. If your horse spends extended periods of time in a stall, make sure there’s always hay available (see “Feeding the Stall-Bound Horse,” pg. 10).

Provide enrichment toys that reward his efforts with yummy treats. Use massage to improve comfort, circulation, and soft tissue health.

5. Freedom from fear and distress, by ensuring conditions and treatment that avoid mental suffering.

When you show your horse that cooperating with you is fun, interesting, and rewarding, his confidence and enthusiasm soars.

When we teach a horse that cooperation is compulsory and there are negative consequences for less-than-immediate compliance, the fear center in his brain is activated, stress hormones are released into the body, and quality of life plummets. Repetitive exposure to stressful situations can make horses insecure, hypervigilant, shut-down, and over reactive.

Welfare Bonus Tip: Choose training and handling methods that are calm, encouraging, and promote positive emotional responses.

When you follow The Five Freedoms, you can rest easy knowing your horse is living the great life he deserves.

This article about the Five Freedoms and equine welfare originally appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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I never thought in a million years I would open an equine sanctuary in my mid-50s and that I would have a sudden realization that led to a change in horse training tactics. I have been an equine professional for over 35 years; in the beginning, I was a traditional trainer who made horses behave and perform by using force, intimidation, and implements like nose chains, bits, draw reins, and side reins to get the desired results. I chased horses in the round pen until they became submissive and dealt with unwanted behaviors swiftly and punishingly.

Turning Point

When I worked with horses that reared, bit, kicked out, or were otherwise disobedient, it never occurred to me that there was an underlying physical or emotional cause for their behavior. I thought the horse was “being a jerk.” I never considered that he was afraid, confused, trying to protect himself, or having (what I now know to be) an entirely reflexive reaction to distress.

One day I was working with a particular horse who was highly reactive. He was constantly tense and high-headed. His eyes were wide and searching for “boogeymen.” He would spook, bolt, and run into me. I used my usual “knock it off or there will be trouble” approach, but it didn’t work. The horse only became more upset and difficult to handle.

This was the first time that yanking, hitting, chasing, and backing a horse didn’t work for me. It was confounding, but it was also a very pivotal moment on my journey. I think this was the first time I recognized that a horse was acting out because he was truly afraid and not because he was an idiot or disrespectful. I came up with a plan to give him a sense of safety and show him how to relax. That change in my approach and behavior transformed his behavior for the better immediately.

It was in that moment I realized I was teaching horses to be more compliant or perform better but doing nothing to improve their quality of life. I was making them fit into our world with very little consideration to the psychological and physical consequences. Looking back now, I know that I was actually doing them harm. For a horse lover like me, that was and still is a very difficult pill to swallow.

The More You Know

That experience, and those that followed, have given me a deeper level of sensitivity and empathy for what horses experience and feel. As a result, these horses have motivated me to become a more well-rounded and educated horse person; I have spent decades learning how I could be a better person for the horses in my life.

I have learned about equine emotional systems, neurological responses, and physiology. I see and understand the impact we have, both good and bad, on the minds and bodies of these highly sensitive and intelligent creatures. It’s a sad reality that the cause of the suffering, trauma, and abuse most horses suffer is for our convenience—the result of making them “safe, successful, or more valuable” to us.

This growing awareness inspired me to learn all I can about compassionate care and physically and emotionally beneficial training techniques. This transition to welfare-centered horse training tactics has been a positive and life-changing experience for the horses I work with and their owners. It has transformed my life in immeasurably wonderful ways as well.

The Next Step

I am frequently asked to work with horses with severe behavior issues. Every creature has its limits. When the body and mind are under pressure for more than brief periods of time, there will be emotional and physical fallout. That can manifest as PTSD, general anxiety, extreme reactivity, depression, soft-tissue damage, systemic inflammation, chronic hoof problems—and more specifically, rearing, biting, kicking, refusing to cooperate, et cetera.

In some of these cases, restoring the body and mind is a process that can take months or years. This can be a very difficult situation for some owners to find themselves in: owning a horse that needs specialized training, care, and long-term rehabilitation.

Sometimes the right decision for the owner is to let the horse go, a solution that comes with serious consequences for the horse, such as being shuffled from one owner to the next, none of whom are equipped to handle his issues. There’s also a high probability the horse will suffer more trauma and abuse, end up at an auction, or worse.

This isn’t a scenario I was comfortable with, so whenever it’s possible to do so, my life and business partner, Bruce, and I take in these horses and others who need rehabilitation and a safe place to live. We provide them with enriching housing, balance their diet, and use reinforcement training and compassionate communication to ease their worries and reduce their need to be aggressive or fearful. Our goal is to give each horse whatever support he needs for his mind and body to heal.

Becoming a Sanctuary

As the number of horses we took in climbed, we decided we wanted to give more. We felt the best way to do just that was to become a sanctuary and file for non-profit status. In February of 2021, we became a registered 501(c)(3) called Pure Joy Horse Haven. It has given us an opportunity that we couldn’t be more grateful for.

We get to help horses who were thought to be unsalvageable and beyond help, like Carson (western-trained show horse: PTSD, panic attacks, explosive behavior), PJ (unknown history: skin issues, painful/damaged feet, deliberately ran at us to spin around and kick at our heads with both hind feet), Fox (barrel raced as a 2-year-old, washed out and taken to auction at four: SI and hip issues, compromised hooves, biting), and Halo (ridden as a long yearling, starved: lunged at us with ears pinned, bit, kicked, became overstimulated very quickly, reared straight up when touched). Because of the severity of their problems, some of these horses were considered candidates for euthanasia before they were surrendered to us.

Restoring these horses and ensuring they have an excellent quality of life for the rest of their days is the most rewarding thing I have ever done, but I will always want to do more, like eradicate equine abuse and trauma. I am doing this by changing the conversation about horse-human relationships and teaching everyone who is willing to listen how welfare-based care and training tactics will benefit them and their horses.

We spread the word at our clinics, online classes, and free seminars on behavior, care, and training that we offer at our monthly “Gathering at the Sanctuary” events. Everything I do is with hope that someday there will be no need for sanctuaries like ours; that all horses will receive the care and treatment they need, be cherished for their own merits, and be fully and deeply appreciated for the gifts they give us.

This article about a change in horse training tactics appeared in the January/February 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Anyone can benefit from going to a horse clinic. One of the advantages is the quantity of information you will be exposed to; you’ll be bursting with new riding or training techniques and want to rush home to put them to use with your horse.

Clinics are also great for people who have limited access to a trainer. A clinic can be a “boot camp” opportunity to learn a multitude of new skills and concepts that will keep you busy practicing at home for quite some time.

Lasting anywhere from a few hours to several days, clinics cover a wide range of topics. If you can think of a discipline or riding style, there’s a clinic for it.

Types of Horse Clinics

There are clinics for riders who like to compete and as well as for those who enjoy riding for personal enjoyment. Some focus on ground-related activities, while others give riders a chance to improve their talents in the saddle.

Clinics can also be level-specific, catering to either advanced horse people with years of experience or those seeking guidance on a fundamental level. If you’re participating with your horse, make sure the clinic you choose is appropriate for his age and stage of training.

Some clinics are “horse-friendly” and invite a limited number of horses and riders/handlers to participate. Most clinics allow you to attend as an auditor if you don’t own a horse or if bringing your horse is impractical. Auditing is also the best way to familiarize yourself with the clinic environment before adding the complexities of traveling and attending with a horse.

If you want to work with a horse but don’t have one to bring, ask the clinic organizers if they have horses available to “rent.” There are also clinics that are spectator-centered that don’t require a horse to participate.

Prior Preparation

Certified Horsemanship Association CEO Christy Landwehr, a veteran horsewoman, clinician, and clinic attendee, shares some words of wisdom for clinic goers.

“Attending an educational clinic for you and your horse can be very rewarding, but it can also be very disappointing,” she says. “Make sure that you do some preparation at home before you attend your first one. Work on teaching your horse to load and unload easily before it’s time to leave for the clinic so you’re not rushed, stressed, or late because your horse won’t get in the trailer. Also, make sure that your horse can tie to your trailer and just stand calmly eating from a hay net. Check your truck and trailer; they should be safe and in good working order.”

You could also have a certified instructor come to you, or travel to them (practice trips!), and take a couple of lessons ahead of time.

“This will give you insight into what you and your horse might need the most help with and which type of clinic would be best to attend,” Landwehr adds.

Make sure you’re ready to handle it if your horse gets excited or nervous at the clinic.

“The unexpected can happen, especially during large clinics with 20 horses and riders (or more) in the arena and lots of commotion. Oftentimes, there is only one trainer/clinician to guide you all,” she explains.

Some horses might be solid and steady, but others could be new to the clinic environment and behave unpredictably, lack confidence, and be very spooky. Be attentive and aware of your surroundings. You need to be responsible for your safety and your horse’s safety.

“Also, be prepared that the clinician may get stuck working with the weakest link and not have time to pay the same amount of attention to you and your horse, so choose the participant experience level carefully,” says Landwehr. “Horsemanship clinics are a fun way to spend time with your horse. Just make sure you are picking a clinic that works best for you both and prepare as best you can ahead of time.”

Choosing a Clinician

Once you’ve chosen your preferred discipline, area of interest, and level of difficulty, the next step is to decide who you want to learn from. Most clinic advertising will state what level of horse and rider/handler their clinics are best suited for, but if that information isn’t readily available, give the organizers a call.

Every trainer has their own philosophy, experience, areas of expertise, and teaching style. When you’re going through the selection process, consider clinicians who fit your sensibilities and inspire you.

Another option is to choose someone who pushes you outside of your comfort zone and challenges you—in a safe and confidence-building way. If you’re uncertain if a particular clinician is the right choice, attend one of their clinics as spectator (auditor) before you commit to participate with your horse.

Reaching out to others through social media is another way to gain insight into whether or not the clinician you’re considering is a good fit.

Setting Up for Success

Attending a clinic can be a simultaneously grueling, enlightening, stressful, exciting and inspirational experience. Make sure you have everything you need to keep yourself and your horse comfortable and your stress levels as low as possible.

Also consider your horse’s condition and endurance, and yours as well. You may spend several hours on your feet or be in the saddle longer than either you or your horse are used to. It’s perfectly fine to take a break if you or your horse needs one. Offer your horse hay and water whenever possible. Get yourself a snack any time your blood sugar starts to drop—intense focus and concentration cause your brain (and your horse’s) to burn extra calories.

Finally, be sure to ask any questions you have. Now isn’t the time to be shy! You’re there to learn, and we all receive and process information in our own unique way. You’re there to be taught, so make sure you’re getting your money’s worth.

Be Your Horse’s Advocate

When you’re dealing with horses in an unfamiliar environment, there may be some excitement and frazzled nerves (horse and human alike). Keep your eyes and ears open so you have time to respond if a problem arises, such as a horse that behaves reactively.

If you notice someone struggling with their horse, kindly give them the space they need to sort things out. If your horse is the one having a hard time, put a safe distance between you and the other participants.

If you ever feel pressured to do something you aren’t ready for, it’s perfectly OK to say no. That isn’t always easy to do, especially in a social setting. However, you also don’t want to end up suffering unpleasant consequences because you didn’t stand up for yourself.

The same holds true for your horse. If you see your horse experiencing anything that seems traumatic or painful, it’s up to you to put a halt to it. It’s your job to safeguard your horse’s safety and welfare to ensure the clinic experience is a success and beneficial to both of you.

This article about getting the most out of attending a horse clinic appeared in the November/December 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Getting the Most Out of Attending a Horse Clinic appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

• Western horses are ridden in both snaffle bits and curb bits. Snaffle bits work via direct pressure while curb bits employ leverage.
• Young or green horses are typically started in a snaffle bit and should learn the basics in a simple snaffle before graduating to the refinement of a curb bit.
• Because every horse’s mouth is sized and shaped differently, a mouthpiece that is comfortable for one horse may not be the best choice for another. Take mouthpiece design into consideration when choosing a bit.
• Contrary to popular belief, a jointed curb (such as a Tom Thumb) is not necessarily a mild bit because of the dual pressure from the jointed mouthpiece and the leverage.

This article was originally posted on January 15, 2004.

We’ve all been there, happily chatting on our cell phone while the person on the other end of the line only hears static and the second syllable of every third word. We converse with our horses with simpler, more direct methods—which include reins and bits—but there is always the possibility that the lines of communication will become garbled.

A Compatible Communication Device

A western bit that you choose has to have the horse accept willingly which improves the quality of your conversation. This is because your cues will be perceived with understanding and confidence. If a bit causes pain or damages the sensitive tissues of your horse’s mouth, immediately reclassify it as a decorative wall hanging.

A suitable western bit that you choose should also be compatible with your horse’s level of training. A young horse that is just learning the ropes under saddle is not ready for the complexities of a leverage bit until he’s learned the basics in a snaffle.

Also consider your own riding skills when you are bit shopping. For example, if you tend to have busy or heavy hands, a milder bit (such as a snaffle) will lessen the chance that your horse will be confused by unintentional cues.

Snaffle Bits

The first type of western bit that a horse owner can choose is a snaffle bit. A snaffle is defined as any bit that works through direct pressure, as opposed to curb bits, which work via leverage. The snaffle is perfect for introducing young horses to the fundamentals, but it can be used on any horse that would benefit from direct rein contact. It is often constructed with two bit rings connected by a solid, single or double-jointed mouthpiece.

The rings of the bit may be round and slide loosely or fixed as in the variations of the “D” or eggbutt style. The snaffle design can isolate rein pressure on one side of the mouth. That feature makes it a popular bit for developing lateral flexibility. It’s also useful for teaching a horse to accept rein contact and travel in a round and balanced frame.

Curb Bits

The second type of western bit that a horse owner can choose is a curb bit. As a western horse’s training progresses, he’ll need less support from the rider’s hands and will be ridden on a longer rein. The action of the curb bit makes it easier for a horse to perceive subtler rein cues.

A curb bit is defined as any bit on which the reins attach below the level of the mouthpiece. The reins attach to the ends of shanks, which are usually 2 to 71/2 inches in length, but can be longer. The shanks may be loose or fixed where they join the cannons of the mouthpiece (the cannons rest on the bar of the horse’s mouth).

A loose-jawed bit allows more lateral control and has a softer feel. A solid-shanked bit has little or no flexibility depending on the construction of the mouthpiece, and tends to twist if a rein is used independently; however, it works well on a horse that needs less lateral action from the bit and more stability to maintain proper balance and alignment through the body.

Shanks produce a leverage effect, which amplifies rein pressure. The difference in length between the shank and the purchase (section that rises above the mouthpiece) determines how much force is created. It can be measured by comparing the lengths of the shank and the purchase. For example, if a shank is 3 inches long and the purchase is 1 inch, the ratio is 3 to 1. The horse will feel 3 pounds of force for each pound applied by the rider.

The shape of the shank affects how fast the bit is engaged when the rider picks up on the reins. A straighter shank will activate the bit more quickly than a shank that is curved.

A curb bit stimulates other pressure points as well. As the shanks are drawn back, the curb strap or chain presses against the sensitive nerves of the lower jaw. To adjust a curb strap or chain correctly, a general rule of thumb is to make it loose enough to slip two fingers between it and the jaw. That allows the mouthpiece time to engage before the curb strap tightens.

The curb strap also prevents the shanks from being pulled back too far and over-rotating the mouthpiece. Depending on the height of the purchase, the horse may also feel downward pressure from the crownpiece of the bridle, encouraging a lower head and neck position.

When the shanks of a curb bit are drawn back, the mouthpiece is rotated downward against the bars and tongue. Some bits are designed to put more pressure on the bars while avoiding contact with the sensitive tongue, while others press against both the bars and the tongue. A bit with a high port will also apply pressure to the palate.

The shape of each horse’s mouth is unique, so try different bit types to find one your horse likes (see “The Right Bit?” below). Some horses work well with tongue contact, yet others have a sensitive tongue and are more comfortable with a bit that offers plenty of tongue release. A mouthpiece with a broad raised port or link reduces tongue pressure. This is a great design for horses that are nervous about tongue pressure or have tongue damage.

A curb bit may have a solid, single or multi-jointed mouthpiece with no port, a low port, a high port or something in the middle. A bit without a port will put pressure on the tongue as it rolls down across the lower jaw. If the port is tall and narrow, it will involve the tongue, bars and palate, offering the horse little relief. Such a bit is best suited for a horse that needs only the occasional reminder to carry himself in the correct frame by a skilled rider with a delicate touch.

A hinged mouthpiece coupled with a high port intensifies the effect by collapsing over the sensitive bars while pressing against the roof of the mouth. A wider port or flattened spoon-shaped port will distribute the force more evenly and be kinder to the horse.

Bit Fit

It is important that the bit fits correctly when choosing a western bit for your horse. A snaffle bit should be adjusted so that it rests snugly against the corners of the mouth without creating a full wrinkle. Since a snaffle is lightweight, this adjustment allows the horse to pick up the bit and hold it comfortably in his mouth. It also prevents the bit from putting constant pressure on the lips, so the horse can feel a distinct release when the reins are loosened.

When using a snaffle with a western headstall, always use a leather or nylon curb strap to prevent the bit from sliding through the horse’s mouth.

A curb bit is heavier and can bang around in a horse’s mouth if it’s too low. It should be set with one full wrinkle. The width of the bit is correct when the rings or shanks come into contact with the corners of the lips without pressing inward against the skin. A bit that is too narrow uncomfortably presses the lips against the horse’s teeth. If the bit is wider than the mouth, it will slide around and irritate the horse.

The Kindest Choice?

Contrary to popular belief, a broken-mouthed curb bit, such as a Tom Thumb, or a bit mistakenly referred to as a western snaffle, is not necessarily the kindest choice to make, especially when combined with the leverage action of a curb. The jointed pieces collapse together as rein contact is applied, effectively crushing the bars and tongue between them.

“Even a simple snaffle bit can be harsh if the mouthpiece is too straight and unyielding. If your horse is particularly sensitive, try a softer three-piece snaffle or a snaffle with a link that prevents the cannons from completely closing together.”

To take some of the bite out of a broken-mouthed bit, make sure that the cannons are curved and slightly tapered toward the center instead of straight. A curved mouthpiece accommodates the tongue and allows the horse to swallow without restriction, encouraging a softer mouth.

Even a simple snaffle bit can be harsh if the mouthpiece is too straight and unyielding. If your horse is particularly sensitive, try a softer three-piece snaffle or a snaffle with a link that prevents the cannons from completely closing together. The width of the cannons affects the severity of a bit as well. Although a thicker mouthpiece distributes more pressure over a wider area, horses with thick tongues or shallow mouths often prefer a bit with slightly thinner cannons. No matter the diameter, the cannons should be smooth and fit the shape of the mouth for a comfortable fit.

Metal Mouth

Another factor that is important to think about when choosing a western bit for your horse is the type fo metal that is used. The type of metal used to form the mouthpiece has an impact on how well a horse accepts it.

• Bits that are made of iron, also referred to as sweet iron, have a pleasant taste that increases their palatability. Another benefit of iron is that it naturally oxidizes and encourages salivation. A moist mouth lubricates the bars and tongue so that the bit slides easily across the delicate tissue. A horse with a wet mouth also tends to be more receptive to rein contact.
• Cyprium is an alloy made of bronze and copper. It’s durable and promotes salivation without losing its luster.
• Stainless steel is strong and retains its appearance, but is tasteless and creates a dry mouth. If you choose a stainless steel bit, make sure it has a copper roller or inlaid copper on the cannons or the link. A copper roller can also soothe a horse with a busy tongue.

Once you’ve chosen a western bit that seems suitable for your horse, scrutinize its overall condition. Watch out for sharp or rough edges, or gaps between moving parts that will pinch delicate skin. Run your fingers over all the joints connecting shanks, cannons and links to make sure that the parts fit together smoothly.

The Bit Test

You can get a good idea of how a bit works by trying it on yourself. No, you don’t have to wear it around the tack store. You can lay the western bit in the palm of your hand and close your fingers to simulate how it will feel inside your horse’s mouth. Then tug on the rings or the shanks of the bit, mimicking a pull on the reins. If it’s a curb bit, try it with a curb strap attached.

Hold the mouthpiece in your hand with the curb strap under your wrist so that you can feel the leverage effect. Pull on the shanks evenly and independently. Notice the difference between loose and fixed-jaw bits and how the various shapes and configurations of cannons and links create pressure. If any bit pinches or causes discomfort when it’s held in your hand, imagine what it will do inside your horse’s tender mouth.

Your horse should be relaxed and accepting of a new bit within the first or second ride. If he shows signs of resistance, find him something more suitable.

The Right Bit?

If your horse:

1. Travels in a round and balanced frame.
2. Has a mouth that is quiet and remains closed when he feels pressure.
3. Consistently carries his head on the vertical, at a 90 degree angle to the ground.
4. Remains relaxed and willing when you apply rein contact.

Then the answer is yes! Your horse likes his bit.

If your horse:

1. Travels in a rigid frame with the head and neck elevated.
2. Opens his mouth or sticks his tongue out or over the bit in response to pressure.
3. Carries his head above or behind the vertical.
4. Becomes tense or frightened when rein contact is applied.

Then the answer is no, and your horse needs a different bit. Nothing influences the effectiveness and severity of a bit more than a rider’s hands. Even the most innocuous piece of equipment can damage a horse’s mouth, and psyche, if used carelessly. If your horse is fighting the bit you are currently using, resist the urge to try one that is harsher. At best, it will intimidate your horse into a false and temporary state of submission. At worst, it will create pain and fear, causing more problems than it can solve.

There is a staggering assortment of western bits available to choose from for your horse on the market. Some are good, others bad, and there are those that are just downright ugly and should never find their way into a horse’s mouth. Your horse deserves to feel comfortable and confident when he’s being ridden. A decent bit isn’t going to be cheap, but this is not an area where it’s wise to cut corners. Consider the bit you purchase as an investment in a good communication tool and your horse’s happiness.

Liked this article? Here are others you’ll enjoy:
Horse Illustrated’s Online Bit Guide
Graduating Your Horse from Snaffle to Curb

This article first appeared in the February 2004 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click Here to subscribe.

The post How to Choose a Western Bit appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A: The fix for your horse’s sidepass is improved body control and clearer communication. Teach him to move his front end and back end separately before he moves as a whole. Make sure your cues are accurate so your horse can perform the maneuver correctly.

Start by riding two-handed using a gentle snaffle or curb bit with short and freely rotating shanks.

Your first task is to move your horse’s shoulders to the right. With your horse standing still, take the right rein 4 to 6 inches away from his neck. Next, take the slack out of the left rein and make it taut enough that your horse flexes his head so you can see his eye. Hold your reins softly but firmly to discourage forward motion. Now slide your left leg forward to the cinch and apply pressure. When your horse takes a step with his shoulders to the right, release the pressure and reward him. Reverse these cues to move his shoulders to the left.

Move your horse’s hind end by keeping both reins close to his neck, while again flexing his head slightly away from the direction of travel. Your leg cue to tell him to shift his hips will be farther back on his body, 2 to 3 inches behind your normal riding position. Once he masters moving his shoulders and hips independently, he’s ready to sidepass.

For the sidepass, you want your horse’s head and neck straight. Your reins should be equal in length and pressure to help his body stay in alignment and softly discourage him from stepping forward (being careful not to pull him backward). Sit tall with your weight even on both seatbones and apply leg pressure in the center of your horse’s ribcage. If he steps backward, soften the reins and more actively encourage him to step to the side with your leg.

Liked this article? Here’s more on the sidepass:
Teaching the Sidepass
Teach Your Horse to Sidepass Toward You

This article originally appeared in the June 2014 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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This conventional rule of horsemanship has been taught for years. In truth, many horses accept food without a hint of adverse behavior. Some do become overly excited when tempted by tasty tidbits, but food rewards can still be effectively utilized to shape equine behavior, even in food-aggressive horses. Read on to find out tips on hand-feeding treats to your horse.

Another common misconception is that hand-feeding treats to horses during training disrupt learning and offer no benefit. However, science disproves this theory and confirms the use of systematically delivered food to accelerate learning, boost cognitive function, enhance memory, and increase retention of information.

Food is an effective motivator because it’s a primary reinforcer—something that your horse naturally likes and wants. It can be used to teach any behavior your horse is willing and able to perform on the ground or under saddle, such as traveling in a relaxed frame, staying focused, accepting clippers, loading onto a trailer or fetching a ball.

Hand-Feeding Treats to Horses: Training

There are two ways food can be used to train: counter-conditioning and positive reinforcement.

Method 1: Counter-Conditioning

Counter-conditioning uses food to change your horse’s response to stressful stimuli. Eating activates the pleasure centers in your horse’s brain, increasing relaxation and evoking feelings of comfort and safety. By offering food when your horse’s fear response is triggered, you can effectively lower his neurologic response and reduce his anxiety.

Imagine you’re introducing your horse to a tarp for the first time. As soon as your horse lays eyes on it, he arches his neck and snorts in terror. Immediately offer him small amounts of his favorite food in rapid succession. That will begin the process of connecting the tarp to the pleasure of eating.

Method 2: Positive Reinforcement (Audible Signal)

Positive reinforcement uses food rewards to increase your horse’s motivation to perform a specific behavior. With an audible signal you will “mark” the behavior at the exact moment it is performed. The signal clearly communicates “well done!” to your horse, and lets him know that he’s earned a treat. Positive reinforcement reduces nuisance behaviors because your horse learns food only comes after he hears the marker.

Be precise in your delivery of the signal; an early or late signal will mark what is occurring before or after the behavior you want to reinforce. If you want to reinforce a hoof lift for cleaning, mark your horse the moment he hands you his hoof. If you wait too long and mark him when he’s pulling his leg away, pulling will be the behavior you’ll reinforce.

The marker signal you use needs to be a unique sound that’s easy for your horse to hear and recognize. Mechanical clickers are a common choice, but they can be impractical when working with horses. Clickers require a degree of dexterity to operate while holding a lead rope, longeline or reins.

A distinctive verbal signal works just as well and lets you work hands-free. Use a short, tonal sound in a higher register than your regular speaking voice: something like “pop,” “yip,” or “boop.”

Use Food Rewards Effectively

Carry your food rewards in a fanny pack, apron or treat pouch. What you fill it with is up to you, but it should be easy to handle, appealing to your horse, and something he can eat fairly quickly. Popular choices include grain, carrot pieces or hay pellets.

If you’re working on a particularly challenging task, give your horse the treats he values the most. Conversely, if your horse is overly excited about the reinforcer you’re using, try one that is less stimulating.

The first lesson to teach your horse using food rewards is the most important: He only gets food when his head isn’t near you. It’s best to introduce your horse to this radical idea that he’ll get food when he moves away from it over a safe, secure barrier such as a stall door or non-electric pasture fence.

Stand near your horse quietly in a relaxed stance. Cross your arms or hold them at your side to avoid drawing attention to the treat pouch. Regardless of what your horse does, passively ignore him, calmly stepping just out of his reach if necessary.

At some point, watch for the instant your horse (accidentally or intentionally) moves his head away from you. Regardless of how slight the effort, mark your horse and give him a small handful of treats. Hold the food away from your body and deliver directly to your horse’s mouth in a smooth, relaxed motion. Hold your hand flat and steady so he can easily retrieve the rewards.

Repeat this 10 to 15 times, and then take a break. Do another round on the same side, take another break, and repeat the sequence from the other side.

Once your horse takes food calmly and politely, you and he can move on to new behaviors and enjoy the countless benefits reward-based training has to offer.

Explore More : Tasty Treats For Horses

This article originally appeared in the February 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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