Here, two equine veterinarians have compiled some easy-to-understand instructions for checking your horse’s vital signs and keeping up with the best horse health practices through the year.

Kathryn Slaughter-Mehfoud, DVM, is an equine surgeon based in Kentucky. Julie Christopher-White, DVM, is a general equine practitioner based in Oklahoma whose skills include acupuncture and chiropractic work.

Daily Horse Health Checks

According to Christopher-White, being familiar with horses’ normal vital signs and appearance means you will pick up on something “off” with his health more quickly. Running through this checklist every time your horse is brought in from the pasture or getting tacked up for a ride means every scratch, mild fever, or rock wedged in the hoof will be noticed immediately.

“If you can have a good [health] history on your horse, it can help the diagnostic side of the healthcare a lot,” says Christopher-White.

General Check

Start the daily health routine with a one-minute check of every inch of your horse, including his belly, between his legs and down his legs, looking for abrasions and swelling.

Hoof Care

Pick out and dry hooves thoroughly if muddy or wet. Slaughter-Mehfoud says slippery ice balls in the feet in the winter and muddy feet in the summer can contribute to the formation of thrush, which is a smelly infection that can eat through the hoof. Thrush often forms around the frog and has a black crumbly or gooey appearance.

Respiratory Rate

Watch the ribcage rise and fall for 30 seconds and multiply by two for breaths per minute. Look for breaths to fall between 8 and 15 per minute.

Hydration Status

Just like with people, staying hydrated is important for a horse’s health. Dehydration can cause colic, which is a life-threatening problem.

The simplest way to check for hydration is to look at a horses’ manure. It shouldn’t be too hard and dry.

Another way to check for hydration is capillary refill time. To assess this, hold your finger against the horses’ gums for a few seconds before releasing and watching them to turn pink again.

“After releasing, count the number of seconds it takes for the gums to return to that pink color. If it takes more than two seconds, the horse is dehydrated,” says Slaughter-Mehfoud.

Temperature

A horse’s temperature should be taken rectally with a designated thermometer. The normal range is 99-101.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If a temperature is higher than 101.5 degrees, it could be a sign that a horse is becoming sick. (Be sure to wait at least 90 minutes after exercise before taking temperature.)

Heart Rate

An elevated heart rate can indicate pain or sickness, so having knowledge of your horses’ resting heart rate is important for future reference. A stethoscope is helpful for this, and the heart rate can be faintly heard by firmly pressing the stethoscope behind the left elbow.

Another method of finding the pulse is pressing two fingers under the jaw. In both instances, set a timer for 30 seconds, count the beats and multiply by two. Twenty-four to 48 beats per minute is considered normal.

Body Condition Score (BCS)

Horses are scored from 1 to 9 on the Henneke BCS system, with 1 being emaciated and 9 being extremely obese. A score of 5, considered “moderate,” is ideal for most horses, although age and past health history should be taken into account.

“We want you to be able to feel your horses’ ribs by applying mild pressure,” says Slaughter-Mehfoud.

Spring Horse Health Checks

Wellness Exam

Christopher-White recommends a springtime veterinary examination of horses so their general health can be assessed by a professional and any concerns addressed.

Vaccination

The American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) recommends the Eastern and Western equine encephalomyelitis, rabies, tetanus, and West Nile virus vaccines.

Coggins

A Coggins is a test for equine infectious anemia (EIA), which is a contagious and incurable disease. A negative Coggins test is often required when attending horse shows or for crossing state lines.

Fecal Egg Count

At the veterinary appointment, ask your veterinarian to do a fecal egg count.

“Submitting a manure sample for a fecal egg count means your veterinarian can advise a correct deworming schedule tailored to your horse,” says Slaughter-Mehfoud.

Veterinary Bloodwork

“Doing annual bloodwork on your horse gives you a baseline on what is normal for him,” says Christopher-White. “A good thing to look at is metabolic panels—insulin, glucose and ACTH—to make sure you’re not getting into metabolic disorders.”

Digital Pulse

Lush springtime grass can cause painful inflammation in the hooves, called founder or laminitis. Slowly acclimate your horse to springtime pastures and feel his digital pulse on the back of each fetlock. According to Slaughter-Mehfoud, a normal leg should have small, steady beats, while a horse experiencing laminitis will have strong, bounding pulses.

Fall Horse Health Checks

Veterinary Exam

Having a horse—even a healthy one—seen by the vet twice a year increases the chances that any health issues will be detected early.

Dental Care

Every horse should have his teeth examined once a year in case they need to have sharp points and other problems addressed. Slaughter-Mehfoud likes to perform dental exams in the fall before the cold weather, when getting the most nutrients out of feed is especially important for keeping weight on.

“Inadequate dental care can lead to choking and impaction colic,” says Slaughter-Mehfoud.

Fecal Egg Count

A spring fecal egg count is good, but twice a year is best. In areas with harsher winters, Slaughter-Mehfoud likes horses to be as prepared as possible to maintain a reasonable body condition score.

Bonus Vaccines

The AAEP recommends vaccines such as equine influenza and equine herpesvirus 1 and 4 for horses that are traveling.

Body Condition Before Winter

Take into consideration your horse’s age and how easily he maintains weight when looking at body condition score heading into winter.

“If your horse is on the leaner side and you’re in Florida, you’re [wouldn’t be] as worried,” says Christopher-White. “But if you’re in Wyoming, [a lean horse before winter] is a bigger concern.”

Incorporating daily and seasonal health-based routines into your horse’s life means every bump can be taken care of, and more serious conditions like a respiratory illness, colic and poor teeth can be addressed in a timely manner.

This article about horse health appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post A Checklist for Horse Health appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Outdoor Shade Structure

Cost: $110 – $135 per structure

Need:
◆ Shade tarp
◆ Four 10-foot-long 4″x4″ pressure-treated posts
◆ Four bags of quick concrete
◆ Concrete-mixing receptacle like a wheelbarrow
◆ Posthole digger or posthole-digging shovel
◆ Heavy-duty zip ties

Providing shade to animals during the sunny summer months is important, and if trees and run-in sheds aren’t available, building a very simple shade structure is another option. Luckily, it doesn’t have to break the bank.

Harbor Freight sells mesh tarps ranging in size from 8’x10′ to 12’x 20′. These tarps have a close-knit weave that blocks approximately 60 percent of light, and can be doubled up if needed. The tarps cost $33 to $55.

Purchase four pressure-treated wood 4″x4″ posts with a minimum height of 10 feet from a hardware store, and dig four 2-foot-deep post holes in the appropriate configuration for the tarp. These posts cost approximately $17 each.

Drill ½-inch holes through the beams within 4 inches of the top for fastening the tarps with heavy-duty zip ties.

Mix quick concrete to slightly drier than package instructions, and cement the posts into the holes, checking for plum lines and even spacing.

Allow the concrete to set for 24 hours before using a ladder to secure the mesh tarp to the tops of the posts with heavy-duty zip ties. Be sure to watch the shade structure for any wear and tear, including holes in the tarp or failing zip ties.

Five-Gallon Bucket Safety

Cost: $5

Need:
◆ Electrical tape

Five-gallon buckets are used for all sorts of things around the barn, including storage, step-stools and their intended purpose—watering horses. Their universal nature is appreciated, but when used as water or feed buckets, the small hooks attaching the handle to the bucket can pose a hazard to a horse.

Itchy horses can rub their faces on the small hooks and damage a nostril, eyelid or catch long hair in the tight space. To remedy this, buy some electrical tape from a local hardware store and wrap the electrical tape tightly around each of the two hooks on a five-gallon bucket. The tape will make the hook less accessible, and the stretchy nature of electrical tape means it will grip more tightly as it is applied.

As a safety bonus, make sure all double-ended snaps are facing toward the wall when the bucket is hung. This means there is less opportunity for scratching horses to snag anything on the clip.

Safer Grain Storage

Cost: $50-100

Need:
◆ Deep freezer or heavy-duty bin
◆ Clear tape to hang feed tags

Storing grain in a consistent environment can be difficult, especially if the feed room is more rustic. No matter the location, keeping pests and mold out of the grain bin is critical for your horse’s health.

A classic grain storage hack for your barn is using an unplugged deep freezer to store the feed. Freezers are insulated, durable and seal to keep animals out. Plus, they don’t have to freeze things to keep grain safe. They’re frequently available on local sites such as Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist for less than $100. Any other type of other tight-sealing, heavy-duty storage boxes that you already own or can find for second-hand purchase will work, too.

As a bonus hack for your barn, save all feed tags and tape them to the grain bin for reference while feeding that bag. The white tags located on the bottom of grain bags list the lot number of grain and sometimes “best by” dates.

Should something go wrong with the grain, knowing which lot the grain came from is vital for feed companies.

Metered Fly Spray

Cost: $25 each

Need:
◆ Automatic bathroom scent sprayer
◆ Batteries
◆ Canister of metered fly spray

Flies are a constant hassle of horse ownership, and controlling them can feel like a never-ending task. Employing fly boots and misting horses daily with the bottle is nice, but automatic fly-spray systems in barns take fly control to the next level.

Although metered fly-spray devices are available at feed stores for around $50 each, you can save by making them from battery-powered bathroom scent sprayers. You’ll need to make sure the device matches with the brand of metered fly spray you purchase. With some leg work, an automatic and adjustable fly spray system perfect for your barn and run-in sheds is within reach.

Muddy Spot Remedy

Cost: $0-50

Need:
◆ Shovel
◆ Organic material to fill

A muddy spot at a gate or barn door is not only irritating; it can also pose a danger to horses. Mud can be slippery and promote thrush-causing bacteria growth. Try this hack for a muddy barn area.

The first step to helping a muddy spot is to see if a small ditch can be dug to direct any pooling water away from the area. The width and depth of the ditch will vary with the size of the issue, but should measure at least 6 inches wide and several inches deep. Using some elbow grease and a digging shovel, dig a channel away from the muddy spot.

If digging an escape route for water isn’t possible, adding product to a muddy spot can help too. Some of the common options are woodchips, gravel and sand. Local tree-care businesses often have woodchips from jobs for free, as long as you pick them up yourself.

Gravel and sand are also widely available at local landscaping shops. Or buy by the yard, and not by the bag, at a hardware store.

Whatever material used, add to the problem area when it is dry and get a nice, sloped base draining toward the lowest point. When it becomes muddy, add material as needed until the mud is subdued. Eventually, the place will be built up with fill material and less water will be able to pool there.

DIY Corner Feeder

Cost: $30 each

Need:
◆ One 55-gallon plastic barrel
◆ Drill with ¼-inch drill bit
◆ Jigsaw
◆ Coarse sandpaper
◆ Cleaning supplies
◆ Heavy-duty zip ties
◆ Wall eyelets

Feeding horses with their heads in a downward position is the most natural and has been proven to put less strain on their bodies. There are several large, plastic corner feeders on the market, but they start at $100 and climb in price from there.

Make a budget-friendly corner feeder for grain and hay using a 55-gallon plastic barrel. These can be purchased second-hand on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist or from local businesses (make sure they only ever held food-grade materials) for approximately $20 each.

Once the barrel is home, measure and mark where it will be cut. Cutting one in half will yield two corner feeders, although the top portion will not be as suitable for feeding grain due to the grooves from the lid.

After measuring, drill a hole into the line of division and use a jigsaw to cut around the barrel as it lays on its side. Jigsaws can be purchased for about $30 or rented for about $15.

Once cut, thoroughly wash the barrel with hot water, dish soap and diluted bleach. Sand the rough plastic edge with a coarse sandpaper. Drill at least two small holes in the barrel near the top to secure it to the wall.

Using eyelets screwed into the wall, secure the feeder to the corner with heavy-duty zip ties and trim them short.

Making life easier around the barn is a constant journey, but one horses deserve and owners will be thankful for. These hacks should improve life around the barn for your horse, so give them a try.

This article about DIY barn hacks appeared in the September 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post DIY Barn Hacks appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

German state-certified Master Saddler Jochen Schleese of Schleese Saddlery has devoted his life to designing saddles that protect horses and riders from long-term damage.

“Horses do not consciously behave poorly,” Schleese says. “The horse can react very fast to a very small amount of pressure when it’s in the wrong spot.”

Thankfully, advances in technology have greatly benefitted the saddle-fitting industry. Cameras, infrared heat mapping and equine treadmills equip saddle fitters to understand horses’ saddle fit needs better than ever.

Signs of Damage

Recognizing the signs of an ill-fitting saddle is the first step toward making a change. According to Schleese, the pressure it takes to crush a grape between your fingers is enough to irritate a horse.

Ill-fitting saddles can pinch nerves, cause muscle atrophy, and make horses numb as they work. Think of pinching your skin with your fingernails: after a while, the pain and irritation is dulled, but the injury is there.

An ill-fitting saddle can first cause wither blisters, which are raised bumps on or near the withers during riding. Dry spots (within the saddle sweat stain) on the back and withers after exercise, as well as white hair growth, indicate something is wrong. Both of these signs occur when intense pressure is applied to the skin. They are precursors to cartilage degradation in the shoulders, withers and back—an unfixable problem.

Aside from the comfort and happiness of the horse, a well-fitting saddle reduces stress.

“When a horse is experiencing [pain], the heart rate goes up, releasing [the stress hormone] cortisol in the blood,” says Schleese. “[Cortisol] means high risk of colic and ulcers.”

While there are several factors that go into fitting a saddle to a horse, Schleese says that understanding three main points of fitting will set horse owners on the right path.

1. Withers and Gullet Width

Riders learn that a saddle should never touch the top of the withers, but don’t realize the sides of the withers are also incredibly sensitive.

“The top is just bone and cartilage, but the sides have all these nerves,” Schleese says. “In nature, this is where stallions bite each other. If a horse is bitten there, he will stop moving forward. It ignites the nerves.”

Horses with saddles that pinch their withers show reluctance to move forward and they hollow their backs, making it impossible to perform in a safe and athletic manner. More stress is put on the tendons in their legs as they move awkwardly, trying to relieve the pinching sensation the saddle applies to the withers.

Use a pencil to determine if the saddle is wide enough for the horse’s shoulders. Test this with the saddle resting on the horse with no saddle pad. Take a pencil and slide it under the sides of the saddle; the pencil should slide easily and evenly with continuous contact between horse and saddle.

The withers need 4 inches of clearance on top and 2 to 3 inches around the sides to keep from compromising the muscles and nerves in the area. Saddles that are too narrow will pinch this area, while saddles that are too wide will fall downward and “crush” the withers and the shoulders.

Think of wearing a shoe that is too big or small. If the shoe is too small, your toes are cramped. Too big, and your toes slam into the front of the shoe while running because there is nothing holding your foot in the correct position.

2. Weight Distribution and Saddle Length

Balance is one of the most important factors in saddle fitting. Having a saddle that fits well at the withers with even contact down the back is vital. Saddle bars are meant to support your weight and distribute it over your horse’s back muscles, but a horse that is under-muscled or overly fat might experience the bars pressing harder in some places, causing stress.

According to Schleese, an English saddle’s bars begin at the front D-ring and extend all the way down the saddle. On a western saddle, which is designed to have things attach to it for trail rides and ranching needs, the weight-supporting bars begin at the first concho and end where the seat connects to the skirt.

The bars should sit between the end of the mane, where the shoulder blade often ends, and the “ring of light,” which is where the hair glows in a curved line on the back. The ring of light signifies a transition from the horse’s full ribs to his lumbar (lower back) vertebrae, which have flat transverse processes that are not connected to the sternum with a rib, and should not bear weight.

To check a saddle’s length, Schleese marks a horse with chalk where the mane ends and the ring of light begins, puts the saddle on without a pad, and sees where the bars of the saddle end in correlation to the chalk marks. The bars should be within the marks.

3. Bar Angles

As horses age, they change shape. Starting with round barrels, horses become more angled as they work and build muscle. This is because their rib cages are suspended by muscles instead of a skeletal structure. Their posture changes as they grow and learn to use their bodies to support weight and carry themselves well. Their shoulder blades move upwards and back as they build muscles.

When fitting a horse, consider age and level of work. A young horse will likely need flatter bars, while a well-trained older horse will need a saddle with steeper bars.

Saddle Fitting to the Rider

Fitting a saddle can often take a horse-focused turn, but remember that you are an important part of the equation for a more thoughtful saddle-fitting process.

The anatomical differences between a man and woman make for some surprising saddle seat variations. Sitting in a gender-inappropriate saddle is uncomfortable, and if you’re protecting yourself from discomfort, you will experience tension and a jerky rhythm will translate down to the horse and affect his performance.

Men have straighter lower backs, longer tailbones, and lower buttocks. This means they need a flatter saddle seat that will allow them to keep their heels under themselves while riding.

In contrast, women have more lower back curvature, a shorter tailbone, and higher buttocks. The higher buttock muscles mean that in a flat saddle seat, a woman’s pelvis will rotate backwards, giving the appearance of a rounded back. A saddle made for a woman will have more rise in the back of the seat, giving the buttocks a comfortable boost and allowing the spine to remain in its natural position.

Jochen Schleese’s Motivation

Jochen Schleese has been working to build better saddles for both horse and rider since 1982. His passion stems from a personal experience with his Hanoverian gelding, Pirat. A three-day eventer, Schleese and Pirat qualified for the 1984 European Championships. Unfortunately, due to lameness in the left shoulder, Pirat and Schleese dropped out of the competition.

“He started to have a little bit of an irregular step,” says Schleese. “And when you compete for your country, you’re under a microscope. Disqualification happens because [the horse] is not 100 percent sound.”

The team veterinarians tried everything to help Pirat stay comfortable, but he was eventually retired. Looking back, Schleese is certain that the saddle caused Pirat’s pain, and his experience helped him start a new chapter in his saddle-making career.

Through his educational company Saddlefit 4 Life, Schleese teaches hundreds of people every year about saddle fit and certifies equine ergonomists, independent experts who use precise measurements and science to analyze the fit of a saddle to horse and rider. The Schleese team has helped over 200,000 horses worldwide over the years, and they believe that education is key to making the necessary changes in the industry.

Hear more of Schleese’s insight on saddle fitting in this episode of Barn Banter.

Saddle fit is unique, and one size never fits all. With basic knowledge, it’s easier to pick out a saddle that fits your horse and eliminates unnecessary pain.

This article about saddle fitting appeared in the April 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.