Early Days of Horsepower

The first records of horses traveling any way other than on their own four feet dates to the late 18th and early 19th centuries in England, beginning with two racehorses. Pulled in an adapted wagon by one or two other horses, the Thoroughbreds were respectively transported for breeding purposes and to arrive well-rested at racetracks.

Most horses were not this lucky. However, as trains and the railway system developed, some horses experienced train travel for exceptionally long distances.

Horses continued to transport each other for decades. Some city fire departments had horse-drawn ambulances, used to haul injured horses to firehouses for veterinary care.

During World War I, more equine ambulances were created to transfer infantry horses from the battlegrounds to base hospitals with veterinarians. There were some vans with stalls in the back to haul war horses as well, helping to pave the way for motorized equine transport after the war. These early versions of trailers were made from wood and steel.

Many years passed with no major need for a horse trailer that closely resembles what we have today. Throughout the American Southwest, horses were still mainly considered livestock, and were necessary for ranch work.

If ranchers or cowboys needed to travel longer distances than their horses could comfortably ride, they loaded up their mounts in the back of pickup trucks. Horses were often tied to cattle racks, which were wooden or steel removable pickup truck inserts that kept livestock contained while driving.

Changing Times 

As the 20th century progressed, stock trailers entered the scene, replacing many cattle racks. Vehicles slowly became more capable of towing trailers as people experienced a greater need to transport goods and other livestock, like cattle and swine, over long distances.

The first stock trailers were primarily made from wood, but quickly switched to steel, since it held up better.

The Interstate Highways

When the Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956 was passed under Eisenhower, 41,000 miles of an efficient Interstate Highway System was constructed over a period of 10 years. Automotive transportation vastly improved, allowing safer and longer transport for people and animals.

At the same time, livestock travel via rail decreased, so increasingly powerful trucks were needed. Now horses could travel with greater ease, even if it was in a basic steel stock trailer.

From there, horses were ridden more for leisure than work, so equestrians everywhere started attending competitions or traveling to recreational trails. This change among the equine industry quickly led to a need for dedicated horse trailers that could haul to horse shows.

Some of the first trailer companies manufacturing specifically for horses were Stidham and Miley, which both started in the 1950s. Back then, trailers were manufactured out of steel and only had room for one to two horses in little bumper pulls. However, it was still very common to haul with stock trailers not necessarily designed for horses. 

New Materials

While steel dominated the trailer industry for generations, customers soon discovered how quickly this material rusts and deteriorates, ultimately putting horse safety at risk.

To solve this issue, 4-Star Trailers, Featherlite, and Exiss were some of the first companies to build aluminum horse trailers. Later other companies followed suit, such as Bloomer Trailers in 1998 and Cimarron Trailers in 2000.

According to Forrest Shifflet, President of 4-Star Trailers, starting from the company’s foundation in 1984, they found that aluminum weighs significantly less than steel, is virtually corrosion-free, and thus holds its value better.

Since this material is much lighter and does not experience rapid deterioration, trailers could grow in length and height as trucks also improved in towing capacity, which was particularly important with the rise of gooseneck trailers and slant-loads that granted more interior space.

Aluminum may seem like it would be an easy choice for customers when trailer shopping, but it took some time for the material to be fully accepted after steel was used for so many years. Some customers feared aluminum would rip or tear under stress.

“People were scared of aluminum at first,” says Anthony Gelvin, director of sales at Cimarron Trailers. “They weren’t sure it would hold up.”

Fortunately, improved structural engineering, manufacturing processes, aluminum alloys, and fiberglass combinations were soon used, further enhancing the quality of trailer shells.

Bigger and Better

According to Gelvin, steel gooseneck stock trailers were still around in the late 1980s, but the market’s comfort level with aluminum had improved. Companies could then place more focus on trailers specifically designed for horses, rather than fashioning horse trailers from stock trailers, like Shifflet says 4-Star did at first.

Perhaps the biggest change in horse trailers has been the addition of living quarters (LQ). Even though recreational vehicles (RVs) had existed for decades, it took until the mid to late 1990s for LQ trailers to become more widely available.

Previously, equestrians had little need to stay overnight at shows because competitions were usually one day long. If riders needed to sleep overnight, the back of their pickup with a cover over the bed was often sufficient. Also, since pickup trucks were very limited for a long time in how much they could tow, small trailers were the only options.

By the 1990s, more and more riders attended shows, including families. Gelvin believes that customers sought a better family experience, considering the costs of hotel rooms and the convenience of staying on the showgrounds.

Due to this need, the horse trailer industry had to catch up to RVs. Consumers were willing to pay higher trailer prices to account for complex electrical, plumbing, insulation, and structural work if it meant they would be comfortable and could save money in the long run.

Now that a higher number of people could travel farther and stay longer, weekend and week-long shows grew, calling for bigger and better trailers. Shifflet says that trailers used to measure 7 feet tall, and goosenecks were about 30 feet long.

Today, with LQs being the norm in many disciplines, the average gooseneck measures about 8 feet tall and 40 feet long. Some trailers max out at 53 feet long and offer lofts to further accommodate comfortable living space—all the more reason for trucks to continue boosting their towing capacity.

Safer Travels

Aluminum is not the only major safety change for horses among bumper pulls, goosenecks, and even commercial haulers. Just about all the mechanical systems have also been upgraded, such as axles, brakes, running gear, couplers, hitches, and more. Horses have better ventilation, too, with screened windows on both sides of the trailer.

Moreover, features such as rubber mats and ramps are common nowadays, offering cushion and safer traction. 4-Star even incorporates patented “Quiet Ride” technology, since research, conveyed by Shifflet, demonstrates that “horses are less stressed when the trailer rattles less.” Old steel trailers were almost deafening for horses, which could not have made for the happiest of travelers.

Many modern-day horse trailers are also equipped with an air-ride suspension system. Unlike the first models with spring suspension, horse trailers with air ride better compensate for uneven surfaces in the road, such as potholes or speed bumps, increasing equine comfort.

Key Takeaway

Updates and improvements throughout the horse trailer industry aren’t done by a long shot. Gelvin says that the way customers’ needs change is key. Today, many consumers want their horse trailers to be multi-purpose, ultimately saving money, so they can have the option to haul horses one weekend and small off-road vehicles the next.

One thing is certain: horse transportation has experienced drastic, yet positive changes in terms of safety and comfort. Now, if only we could explain to our horses how far we’ve come!

This article about the evolution of horse trailers appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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I’ve been on the search for a new (to me) horse trailer for years. Growing up, I’ve gone from having a four-horse bumper-pull livestock trailer to a five-horse aluminum gooseneck trailer. We’ve hauled our trailers with vans, gas trucks, diesel trucks, and back to gas.

While I had my “dream trailer” in mind, I also knew what my budget could handle and what our honest needs were, which set me on the course of constantly perusing the trailer selling groups on Facebook and talking with many different contacts to learn what to buy and what not to buy.

I finally found a trailer that checked most of the boxes on my list. It’s an early 2000s Sooner two-horse straight-load bumper-pull trailer with a small dressing/tack room in the front. The 7’6″ height was more than I was looking for, but I also know that the resale value on this trailer is amazing, especially being a warmblood trailer. So what if my stocky Quarter Horses and chubby Miniature Horse are a little dwarfed when they’re inside? Plenty of head room!

I’ll share a little about what I did to make this trailer mine.

Cleaning the Back of a Horse Trailer

There’s not too much you can do to change up things in the back of the trailer where the horses are hauled. Within the first day, even though the previous owner had cleaned it out, I dragged out my pressure washer to clean the inside from top to bottom; you can never be too careful with biosecurity.

The butt and chest bar padding on the inside of the trailer was original—so it was stained, faded and not as soft as it once was. Did you know that you can replace these pads?

What I Did

I purchased replacement padding (without the pipe inside) from my local trailer shop for the chest and butt bars. These are generally affordable and easy to replace.

The protective pads on the sides of the trailer and dividers are a little more difficult and expensive to replace. These are also made from vinyl and foam, but they require screwing into the trailer sides. This isn’t something I’m looking to do right now, unless I decide to sell my trailer down the road, but I was happy to find that I could replace those pads if I wanted.

With a straight load, I have a decent size empty space in the front of the trailer, where you might see a grain manger. The previous owner installed 1-inch-thick plywood at the bottom of her horse divider and the front divider to use the second stall and front for more storage. I removed both dividers, but I may later reinstall the front just to protect anything from potentially falling or moving into the stalls and getting tangled in their legs. For now, the front will hold a bale of hay and cooler, two objects that won’t easily move on the rubber flooring.

Organize the Dressing/Tack Room

My wish list was to have a rear tack and front dressing room, but for my family’s needs right now, we are OK with the lack of rear tack. Two horses shouldn’t require that much equipment, and if you store things properly, you’re able to fit quite a bit in small spaces.

What Storage Exists There Already

My trailer has a saddle rack for two saddles, nicely spaced out for my western saddle and my daughter’s western saddle. It already had rubber-coated hooks for hanging bags, tack and equipment. There’s also a small area in the back where you can slide clothing hangers for show clothes—however, you must use thinner wire hangers, not plastic or wooden hangers.

What I Added

1.  I installed a couple of two-by-fours so I could hang a grooming caddy from the short wall by the door. One of the worst things you can have in a small space is clutter—not only is it an eyesore, but it can be unsafe if you’re trying to move around inside, and it’s easy to lose things.

I love the grooming caddy I’m using because it has so many pockets, including a mesh zipper pocket and clear plastic zippered pocket, and it can hang up in the trailer or at the stalls if we were to show out of stalls. It allows me to store my grooming and sport boots off the floor.

2. I purchased a white plastic shoe storage cabinet from IKEA; the two drawers stack on top of each other or next to each other, or you can use just one. I’m using it to store my mesh sheets, small spray bottles and sport boots. I love it because it’s thin, easy to keep clean, and can be moved around if needed. (I keep the cabinets in place with strong hook-and-loop fasteners.)

3. To keep the original flooring clean, plus add a little comfort, I purchased interlocking fitness flooring. The flooring is cheap ($5/square at Five Below) and easy to cut to fit into the corners. Plus, if something is spilled or I just need to replace a square, it’s easy and affordable!

4. Finally, make your trailer your own by outfitting it in matching travel gear. What’s more fun than accessorizing your saddle carrier, bridle bags and hay bags in a fun matching pattern? It’s the best way to protect your many investments, makes it easy for identification (I have one color and my daughter will have her own color), and they make your storage look neater.

Key Takeaway

With these DIY hacks, you can affordably organize and customize your horse trailer to optimize storage. This will make for easier trips to horse shows and other hauling adventures. Take photos of your DIY horse trailer projects and tag us in them on Instagram (@horseillustrated)!

This article about tips to organize and customize your horse trailer storage appeared in the November/December 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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There is much more to horse trailer ownership than simply hitching up and driving to shows or trail rides. Routine maintenance is key to ensuring your trailer lasts a lifetime, retains its value, and keeps your horse safe while on the road. Properly caring for your horse trailer with routine maintenance can also help you avoid expensive repairs in the future.

The list of items to bear in mind when maintaining your horse trailer can feel a little overwhelming if you are unsure where to start. Luckily, only several maintenance items need to be inspected annually, while others are quick checks you can easily add into your hauling routine.

Annual inspections at professional RV and trailer repair shops are great to do before show season starts so they can look at multiple items during one appointment. Plus, you will have plenty of time in case there is an issue or parts need to be ordered.

1. Tires, Tires, Tires

Starting from the bottom up, you want your tires to be in the best possible shape. It’s worth investing in high-quality tires to prevent blowouts while on the road hauling horses.

You will want to keep a frequent eye on your tires for any holes, punctures, loss of tread, or other signs of wear and tear. And don’t forget to routinely check your tire pressure.

Similar to your car, you will need to replace your trailer’s tires every five to six years, regardless of what they look like, because certain wear and aging is not visible to the naked eye.

2. Lights and Turn Signals

One of the easiest ways to verify that your brake lights, running lights, and turn signals are working efficiently is to ask a friend who can walk around while you are in the driver’s seat.

Press your foot on the brakes, test your headlights, and flip on your turn signals as your friend walks around your truck and trailer to see if these lights are all working as they should.

You should check all your lights and turn signals throughout the year, since you might not immediately notice if a light goes out.

3. Brakes and Bearings

You will want to ensure that your brake mechanisms are working properly so you don’t slide, skid, or jackknife. If you haul your horse trailer to a repair shop, the technicians can test your brakes and service your bearings for you, ensuring that your trailer stops at the same moment as your truck.

Your emergency brake actuator should be inspected and tested, too. These vital checks should be done at least once a year, depending on the number of miles you drive.

4. Floors and Roof

The floor and roof comprise one of the most important inspections, as they can rot and/or corrode. Like your brakes, they can be checked by professionals and should be repaired immediately.

Don’t let a damaged floor or leaky roof go for too long, since the restoration cost will grow and the issue could even become irreparable. Wooden floors are particularly susceptible to dry rot.

Although they don’t rust, you’ll want to look for any stress fractures in welds of aluminum floors. You may also see corrosion/pitting with an aluminum floor as a result of overexposure to manure and urine.

By pulling out and pressure washing floor mats at least once a year, you can catch weaknesses or damage in your trailer. If you haul frequently, mats should be pulled and cleaned multiple times throughout the season, with plenty of time to dry.

5. Doors and Windows

During your yearly check, confirm that your trailer doors and windows will not fly open if you are driving. Test out the locks and seals to ensure that everything is held together with the frame and jamb.

If there are any problems with the seam, or you find cracks and tears, the door or window could fly open or shatter, scaring your horses as well as causing more physical damage to your trailer.

Leaks in your doors or windows can lead to water damage. If you take your trailer to a shop, technicians can check your hinges and welds, verifying that everything is tightened or greased properly.

6. Coupler and Hitch Ball

Every trailer should have a coupler (hitch) that operates smoothly. While you establish that the coupler is not worn down, you can grease the hitch ball. By smearing some wheel-bearing grease on the ball, the coupler should have an easier time locking onto it as you lower the jack.

You can do a quick check that the hitch and ball work correctly each time you hook up. At the same time, you can see if the safety chain welds and snaps are still in good condition.

7. Trailer Storage

Even though proper storage is often an overlooked component of trailer ownership, it is crucial in maintaining the integrity of your horse trailer, especially if you live in harsh climates with heavy snow or winds.

You might want to consider investing in a cover that protects the exterior if leaving your trailer outside for long periods of time. If possible, park alongside a building that provides protection from the elements but does not have any trees that are at risk of falling on your trailer.

8. Regular Cleaning

Going the extra mile when cleaning your trailer will never be a waste of time. Not only will it prevent rust and corrosion, but your horses will thank you for hauling them in a place that is neat, tidy and safe.

Pick out all manure from the horse area after every trip and allow wet spots to fully dry. On sunny days, consider opening your trailer’s doors and windows to let air circulate.

Likewise, you should regularly pressure-wash and clean your mats, walls, and floors to get stubborn dirt and grime out. During your cleaning routine, you can look for damage or leaks that would not have been easily found otherwise.

Depending on how often you haul, you should wash and wax your trailer at least twice a year. Maintaining that like-new shine both looks good and adds years onto your trailer’s life.

Whether you own a bumper pull or a gooseneck, each maintenance item is the same and needs to be attended to. Horse trailers with living quarters come with a longer list, since they need all basic routine work done in addition to the upkeep of extra wiring, A/C, propane, plumbing, waste and water tanks, kitchen appliances, batteries, generators, awnings, and more.

Routine maintenance is not everyone’s favorite part of owning a trailer, but it’s essential to being safe on the road. Knowing which items on your trailer need habitual care will help you properly review your checklist before you embark on your next exciting hauling journey.

Further Reading on Horse Trailers

◆ Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs
◆ Finding the Right Truck to Tow a Horse Trailer
◆ Improve Your Gas Mileage While Pulling a Horse Trailer

This article about horse trailer maintenance appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Horse Trailer Maintenance appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Travel for horses has come a long way since pre-1950, when railroad shipping was the main option for covering long distances. Today’s horses frequently travel many miles for competition, breeding and relocation. When it comes to long-distance hauling, should you haul your own horse or use a commercial shipper? Learning what’s involved can help you make the smartest and safest decision.

Veterinary Input Before Hauling

Travel is stressful on horses, although some handle it better than others.

While you can never eliminate risk completely, good planning can greatly minimize it, according to Woodrow Friend, DVM, who has been a veterinarian with Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital in Lexington, Ky., for 21 years.

Paperwork: “Every state requires a certificate of veterinary inspection (CVI), but some also require a permit number to enter; you just need to know beforehand,” says Friend. Some equine events and boarding barns also require proof of certain vaccinations.

Confirm ahead of time what paperwork is required at your destination and any states you’ll be traveling through. Health certificates should be obtained within 30 days of travel.

Proof of negative Coggins is always required. Confirm with your destination, as some states require a six-month Coggins, instead of the standard one-year test.

Prevent illness: Take temperatures before shipping and never ship a horse with even a low-grade fever.

Friend recommends preloading with electrolytes—either paste or top-dressed on their feed—to encourage your horse to consume more water before traveling.

“I’ve seen more pneumonia than colic from shipping in my practice,” he says. “You’re dealing with a long-necked animal that needs to drop his head to drain the airways.”

As he explains, when horses are tied with their heads up for hours, the mucous and natural secretions in the airways can’t clear out quickly, which increases the chance of respiratory problems. This risk is heightened when horses are eating hay from a suspended net with wind blowing dust and bedding particles around.

Friend says the best scenario for long-distance travel is a box stall setup so hay can be at floor level and the horse can drop his head to clear his airway. If this isn’t possible, and the horse is tied, but frets without hay, he suggests dampening the hay slightly to reduce dust and fine particles.

Overheating: Finally, don’t underestimate how much body heat horses generate in a closed trailer. Check that all vents and windows are open (with grills and/or screens in place) to maximize air flow.

“During the summer, driving through the night is easier on horses because it’s cooler,” says Friend.

Consider a Commercial Hauler

A major advantage of using a reputable commercial shipper is that they must be Department of Transportation (DOT) compliant, so they are precise about safety regulations and generally have two drivers per rig.

When you factor in stops for fuel and checking horses, an average of 50 mph is typical for a commercial hauler, notes Jim Welsh, owner of Elite Horse Transport based out of Waco, Ky.

Welsh uses air ride tractor trailers and hauls predominately show horses (hunter/jumpers and dressage) and some racehorses, both Thoroughbreds and Standardbreds.

They operate primarily from New York, Virginia and Kentucky to all points in the U.S. and Canada. Twice a month, he hauls horses to and from California.

“We load up in Lexington (Ky.) and will be in Southern California within 60 hours,” says Welsh. “Horses are in box stalls and stay on the truck the whole time.”

The rig is equipped with cameras so drivers can continually view the horses. Hay and water is in front of horses the entire trip. Stalls are bedded with shavings.

“On a trip this long, we stop and shut down for four to five hours once, and will have a two-hour stop twice during the trip. If a horse shows us he needs more rest, we’ll stop more often,” he adds, explaining that stopping encourages horses to rest, drink and urinate.

In a commercial van, a box stall measures about 8’x8′. Because the horse is not tied, he can position himself however he’s most comfortable—whether facing forward, backward, or diagonally.

The “stall and a half” size (also called a double stall) is usually 4’x8′, and the horse is cross-tied.

“Numerous university studies have proven a box stall is the best way for a horse to travel,” says Welsh, who only ships cross-country if horses are in box stalls.

Welsh also gets called out regularly on rescue missions to assist owners who have a breakdown while hauling their own horses.

“Bring extra water and hay with you,” he advises. “Check your route and plan ahead for what you’ll do if something goes wrong. Realize that if you only have one driver, a 700-mile trip is going to be a challenge. You have to be realistic with your expectations, especially if you’re driving through the night. If you’re not used to driving like a truck driver, it’s a daunting task to drive 1,000 miles and be concerned about horses behind you.”

Hauling Your Own

Angela and Jackie Ganter barrel race professionally, which puts them on the road all summer traveling to rodeos across the western U.S. and up into Canada. The mother-daughter team live in Abilene, Texas, where they own and operate a boarding facility.

The Ganters haul their own horses to competitions, typically loading five horses in their air ride five-horse living quarters trailer pulled by a small Freightliner.

The distance between rodeos can vary anywhere from three to 15 hours.

“If we aren’t in a time crunch, we like to split trips into two days and lay over somewhere,” says Jackie. “If we have a time crunch, we will drive straight through and take turns driving. We usually don’t unload unless it’s a 10-plus hour trip. Then we’ll stop halfway and let them out for 30 minutes or so to get their heads down, walk and get a drink. If we have time to spend the night, we’d rather do that. We use horsemotel.com and make plans in advance.”

The Ganters use slow-feeder hay nets so horses can pick at hay while en route.

They always bring extra water, feed, and hay, as well as different weight blankets to be prepared for weather changes.

“One time we were stranded for 24 hours on the side of road during a blizzard because the interstate was shut down due to treacherous conditions,” says Jackie.

Plan Your Stops

Friend points out that the ride can be very different for horses traveling in an air ride tractor-trailer versus a standard horse trailer. In addition, traveling in stop-and-go traffic puts more physical strain on a horse than uninterrupted travel at highway speed on the interstate.

Although it might seem like your horse is just standing in the trailer, he’s constantly adjusting his balance to accommodate for changes in speed, braking, turns and lane changes, not to mention uneven road surfaces and trailer vibration.

This is why horsemen who regularly haul long distances stop every four or five hours for 20 to 30 minutes. This allows horses to relax, drink and urinate, something they often won’t do while the trailer is in motion.

“Even just stopping for a short time will give their legs a break from the beating of driving down the road,” says Ganter.

Friend stresses the importance of having your horse drink during his journey.

“Some horses won’t touch water when traveling, but you have to know your horse,” he says. “If you have a horse with history of colic or tying up, you’ll have to stop and offer water and walk him more frequently.”

Unless you’ve stopped at a stabling area to stay overnight or for several hours, it’s safer for horses to remain in the trailer during breaks. With water breaks and hay provided, most horses will be fine in the trailer for 10 to 12 hours.

“You can’t just pull over at any rest stop to take your horse out and walk him around,” says Friend. “If you’re going on a long trip, you need to preplan stops and layovers.”

On trips of 24 hours or more, plan for a layover of about 12 hours so your horse can relax in a stall or pen where he can eat and drink normally. It’s not uncommon for horses to drink less than usual while in transit, so layovers help them stay hydrated.

Preparing for Long-Distance Horse Hauling

When hauling your own horse, ensure your trailer and tow vehicle are prepared for a long trip. This includes checking:

◆ Fluid levels
◆ Brakes
◆ Lights
◆ Tire condition and recommended inflation PSI, including spare tires (for tow vehicle and trailer)
◆ Necessary equipment to change tires
◆ Trailer wheel bearings (should be re-packed regularly)
◆ Trailer vents/windows/doors
◆ Full fuel tank

Use absorbent bedding so horses feel more comfortable urinating in the trailer. Large-flake shavings absorb moisture well and aren’t as dusty as small flakes. Avoid sawdust, which contributes dust and particulates to the air your horse is breathing.

If you have questions or concerns prior to making a long-distance trip, talk with your veterinarian.

This article about long-distance horse hauling appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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EV Foundation Sires

Good performance horses often carry lineages that back up promises of future excellence. Ditto for electric vehicles (EVs). Albeit not as romantic as a Byerly Turk or Godolphin Barb, these “foundation sires” began taking their first wobbly steps in the late 1990s and early 2000s, with a limited number of electric pickup trucks produced by Chevrolet (the S-10 Electric) and Ford (the Ranger EV).

Since 2009, more have been joining the electric conversion conversation. The 2010s saw Phoenix Motorcars introduce a test fleet of all-electric SUTs (Sports Utility Trucks). Miles Electric Vehicles began importing a small Chinese electric pickup, the ZX40ST, and Canadian-based Ecotuned offered an all-electric conversion of the Ford F-150 for use by Hydro Quebec and Montreal Airport.

Not Just a Prospect

Fast forward to January 2023, and Robert Duffer, senior editor at TheCarConnection.com, said, “Electric pickup trucks are no longer a prospect: They are a reality. And they’re exceptional.”

Take the Ford F-150 Lightning. Exhibiting the same fine breeding as its bestselling forbearer, the Ford F-150, this EV pickup truck was named overall Car Connection Best Car To Buy 2023, saying the Lightnings are “not just great trucks, they’re evolutionary vehicles.”

This season, roughly half a dozen American-made electric pickup trucks are for sale or under development. But like young racehorses at an elite auction, a buyer’s investment can be considerable.

The work truck that became the family truck can now double as a mobile boardroom and, commensurate with that evolution, J.D. Power says the price of pickups has increased about 3 percent a year since 2009.

Gas-powered pickups account for nearly 20 percent of all new-vehicle sales, with consumers paying an average of $60,000 for a new truck in 2022.

“Automakers have promised a $40,000 electric truck, but no one has yet to deliver one,” says Duffer. “In the first year of sales, the F-150 Lightning experienced three price hikes, amounting to a 40 percent increase as of December 2022.”

If this leaves some feeling financially over-horsed, there are options. A 2023 federal EV tax credit of $7,500 can be applied to new EV and fuel cell electric vehicle (FCV) trucks and SUVs costing less than $80,000 whose final assembly is in North America (see IRS.gov’s Credits for New Clean Vehicles).

EVs listing for under $80,000 include the Ford F-150 Lightning (starting at $57,869) and 2024 Chevrolet Silverado EV ($39,900 base price), which shares an Ultium battery platform with the pricier ($86,245 EV2 base) GMC Hummer EV.

Two dark horses whose price and delivery are TBD are the Ram 1500 EV Revolution, aka “Ram Rev” around the barn, from Stellantix (nee Fiat Chrysler), and the mysterious stainless steel, wedge-shaped Tesla Cybertruck, hyped to offer a 500-mile range and tow capacity up to 14,000 pounds.

Among proven bloodlines stands a fierce little surprise talent that has been handily winning accolades, including the highest overall satisfaction ranking of any vehicle in the 2023 J.D. Power U.S. Electric Vehicle Experience Ownership Study, plus 2023 Car Connection Best Luxury Car to Buy, and 2022 MotorTrend Truck of the Year and Motor Authority Best Car to Buy.

Don’t let fancy introductions fool you. This EV is a proven workhorse. Meet the Rivian R1T, the performance prospect that everyone will be talking about.

Rivian to the Rescue

California-based Rivian made the motor industry sit up and take notice in 2022 with the R1T ($74,800-$98,800), the first available battery electric pickup truck. The Standard (135-kwh) all-wheel drive has about 260 miles of range per full charge; the popular mid-range (135-kwh) has about 328 miles, and the Max (180-kwh) pack quad-motor R1T has a 400-mile range.

“By rethinking how a pickup truck can be built, how it can be propelled, how it can drive, how its spaces might be used, how we could interact with it, and to expand its target demographic, Rivian has forced the industry and market to reassess expectations,” wrote MotorTrend reviewers. “The R1T is not just an intellectual exercise; it is at its core a good truck by traditional definitions, too.”

Including quietly going where few have gone before: to a real farm, to do real chores.

In this case, to Farm Sanctuary, whose Los Angeles, Calif., and Watkins Glen, N.Y., locations have been havens of peace for rescued farm animals and retired horses for decades.

Christopher Kokotajlo, HR coordinator for Farm Sanctuary, was working as an environmental caregiver when MotorTrend contacted their organization in 2018 about testing four mid-size trucks. That “test ride” went well enough to earn a callback.

“[MotorTrend] loved our mission and had such a great experience collaborating with us that they wanted to do it again,” says Kokotajlo. Would Farm Sanctuary be interested in testing out an EV truck?

“They wanted to test the Rivian in ‘real-world scenarios,’” he says. “We let them know the kinds of tasks we routinely do, like loading hay to feed, hooking up trailers, et cetera. Farm Sanctuary uses large trucks to haul feed, equipment, and material, as well as large trailers when we need to perform rescues or transport larger animals.”

They’re always looking to improve transportation. Kokotajlo says the FS Environment team would kid about getting an electric truck “for both the ‘cool factor’ and ‘doing good for the environment’ factor.”

The truck was a hit.

“It looked sleek and futuristic while maintaining a ‘truck’ look,” says Kokotajlo. “It was silent while driving, which was great. We have a blind sheep named Biscuit who gets startled when we run heavy machinery, but he was very calm when we were driving by.”

The farm’s senior rescue horses, Darla, Joanna and Zoe, also tend to spook if a truck unexpectedly rumbles by, so for them, the EV silence was golden.

“Based on Joanna’s injuries, we speculate she was used for horse tripping at an illegal rodeo, but once you earn her trust, she’s a sweetheart,” says Kokotajlo. Joanna’s companion, Zoe, “loves her hay and isn’t afraid to let you know!” As will Darla, a malnourished surrender who’s now the feisty queen of the paddock.

When the Rivian drove by, “They stayed peacefully eating their hay.”

Inside, the truck’s cab was spacious.

“It fit five people easily, which means two can fit with plenty of space for tools and equipment,” says Kokotajlo. “There’s extra storage, like the ‘frunk’ (front trunk), and more space than usual between the bed and cab. The bed had a durable liner and cover that could lock to protect valuables.

“There was plenty of room to stack feed in the back and, when pulling the trailer, even as a passenger you couldn’t feel the truck working hard. It gripped the ground and maintained traction, making for safe handling on rocky or sandy terrain. Lastly, the truck was easy to hook up. It has hydraulic suspension that allowed for more flexibility in lowering the hitch onto the ball.”

EV at Work

MotorTrend wanted them to ask the R1T to perform two tasks Farm Sanctuary would otherwise have used traditional trucks for:

1. Hooking up a horse trailer and backing it into a pen.

2. Loading up the bed with hay to feed.

“The truck performed very well for these tasks, and I had no complaints,” says Kokotajlo. “Another bonus was, when running into town for errands, we wouldn’t be using gas and would be able to come home and plug it in rather than refuel.” In the long run, Kokotajlo feels that would save Farm Sanctuary money.

To test loading the bed with hay, they used the farm’s standard three-string bales, which measure 16″x22″x44″ and—depending on the type of hay or straw—weigh in at 50-100 pounds each.

“We fit five or six bales but, with careful planning, and using rope to tie it down, we could have stacked 10 to 12,” says Kokotajlo. “We have a hoop house where we store our hay (alfalfa, barley, orchard, timothy), which is fed to our cows, horses, goats and sheep. We also load up a trailer to bring out to the feeders along the back part of our property.”

That’s not to say that some aspects of the electric workhorse’s performance didn’t raise more questions than they answered.

“We make long drives with animals in the back, sometimes to emergencies where we can’t spend 30 to 60 minutes charging,” he says. “I’m curious about how the range alters when pulling a 20-foot trailer with a few large animals in back. MotorTrend was not able to speak to this, and I believe this [could be] a limiting factor to using an electric truck.

“The other thing I would love to see is the ability to install a gooseneck. I know many folks prefer goosenecks and there is not an option for this yet. [Goosenecks] are great for turn radius and tack areas that do not significantly reduce trailer space.

“Also, the towing capacity is stated as 11,000 pounds, which is toward the lower end of most of our trucks. This might not be an issue, depending on [your needs].”

Feeding the EV

Just how easy did Farm Sanctuary—with real mouths to feed—find recharging an electric workhorse?

There have been anecdotal complaints from EV owners regarding the unreliable state of too many of the 40,000+ public charging stations and 100,000 outlets in the U.S., such as broken chargers and screens, wonky software, et cetera.

J.D. Power surveyed more than 11,500 EV and plug-in hybrid owners in its 2022 Electric Vehicle Experience Public Charging Study and concluded, despite “big growth” in the number of public chargers, EV owners felt the overall experience “still sucks.”

Most owners do their charging overnight while parked at home, the study concluded, but if EVs are to become a more attractive option to buyers, charging stations will need to be become “more pervasive and reliable, like gas stations.”

Farm Sanctuary found the EV truck could be charged three ways: by Level 1 charging at home (a standard 120-volt household outlet); Level 2 charging at public stations (208- to 240-volt—Level 2 can also be installed in households by an electrician, just like an extra dryer plug); and Level 3 DC Fast Charge and Supercharging (400- to 900-volt), currently only available at specialized public charging stations.

“We tried [Level 1] to show that you can take an extension cord from your house, add an adaptor that comes with the truck, and plug your truck in,” says Kokotajlo. At a recharge rate of about 3 to 5 miles an hour, this is the slowest method.

“But if you use this overnight, it can charge 24 to 40 miles in eight hours. That’s a perfect [option] if you’re not using the truck for long trips.”

Level 2 charging will become more accessible as the 10,000 Rivian Waypoint chargers proposed in the U.S. and Canada become available near hotels, parks and commercial centers. As should super-fast Level 3 stations, with charging rates of 3 to 20 miles per minute.

“It’s a little bit of a learning curve,” Kokotajlo says about the care and feeding of the EV workhorse, “but once you understand the differences, it felt intuitive. It was like plugging in your toaster.”

Comfort Zones

Feel is important in good horsemanship, and this EV wasn’t Kokotajlo’s first rodeo.

“I have personal experience driving EVs,” he says. The direct handling of the R1T was limited to the MotorTrend team. “[But] when we drove around the Sanctuary, the first thing I noticed was how silent it is. We had the windows down and I could hear the gravel crunch.

“There was a bit of a learning curve. It wasn’t so much the acceleration, which is fast and smooth, but the regenerative braking, which felt similar to downshifting, but not as ‘planned’ as driving with a stick. After learning what it does, it was nice to have the vehicle help with the braking while also capturing the energy.” In regenerative braking, every time you lighten your foot off the accelerator pedal, the car feels like it’s applying a light brake, and captures the energy to boost the battery’s charge.

He also found the dashboard intuitive.

“It felt like a large tablet. It was a bit weird, not seeing A/C buttons and dials but, after learning where everything was, it made sense. You can control everything from the screen.

“Another cool feature is that the truck can be updated. If there is software that changes how it handles regenerative braking to make it more efficient, you don’t have to go to a shop to activate it. You hook your EV to Wi-Fi and it updates itself. This is a cool concept as the truck can improve without you having to invest in new parts or technology.”

Ready to Saddle Up?

Prospects versus proven performers start with finding the right partner for the job. Is the EV ready to go to work in every equestrian facility? Maybe not yet, but Farm Sanctuary sees that the potential is out there.

“The truck itself is very high quality, which was noted in the finishes, the thoughtful features, and performance. For how Farm Sanctuary uses trucks, I think a Rivian EV would handle the workload.”

But despite a desire to advocate “full force” for the truck, Kokotajlo has reservations.

“I wish we could have tested some main concerns, the primary one being range when hauling. While not confirmed, I’ve heard there can be up to 50 percent reduction in range when hauling, depending on load and terrain. This might or might not be a dealbreaker for some folks. For shorter trips, this would be fine, but for larger or emergency trips, it would not.

“Lastly, for the price and what the truck can do, I’m uncertain on the ROI [return on investment]. But if a few things get ironed out, this truck will be a no-brainer purchase.”

Overall, the EV pickup truck is probably still a long yearling for most horse facilities, but in a few years, they’ll be finished performers.

Further Reading

◆ Choosing a Vehicle to Tow Your Horse Trailer
◆ Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs

This article about electric pickup trucks appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Electric Pickup Trucks: Can They Haul? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“Some horses lock up their feet and refuse to go forward, while others will step on and fly backward off of the trailer,” says trainer Brittany Malinoski, whose focus is the working cow and ranch divisions. She blends natural and traditional methods in her training program and has a strong passion for colt starting. She operates her Brittany Lee Performance Horses out of Creeks Edge Farm in Lebanon, Tenn.

If you’ve ever had the misfortune of trying to load a difficult horse, you may have wondered just how or why he arrived there. According to Malinoski, horses can find loading onto a trailer challenging for a variety of reasons, including inexperience, an accident involving trailering, poor experiences while hauling as a result of driver error, and even uncomfortable trailering experiences derived from slippery flooring.

Regardless of the reason, Malinoski shares some of her tried and true methods for teaching your horse to overcome his aversion and load like a pro.

Preparing Your Trailer for Self-Loading

Before you begin working through your horse’s trailer loading woes with self-loading as the end goal, make sure that your trailer is safe, comfortable, and inviting by bedding the floor with shavings and placing hay in a bag or net. For the trailer floor, Malinoski prefers trailer mats with shavings and, because it is highly palatable, chooses to offer alfalfa hay.

Trailer preparations aside, Malinoski explains that your horse should have good manners and be solid in his ground handling skills so he can go off the feel of what you’re asking before you attempt to tackle the trailer itself.

Finally, if possible, you may wish to provide your horse with a mentor or buddy skilled at trailer loading. While Malinoski advises that horses should eventually become adept at loading alone in any situation, having an experienced horse to model his loading skills and then waiting patiently in the trailer may make your horse comfortable enough to be drawn inside to join him while he is still solidifying the skill.

Squeeze Game

To help horses become comfortable in narrow spaces such as trailers, Malinoski makes use of an activity called the squeeze game. Using an arena fence or wall, set up two cones or barrels slightly larger than one horse width to create a narrow passage, similar to a trailer stall.

Before beginning, your horse should be outfitted in a rope halter with a lead rope attached. You’ll also need a whip or stick with a flag or string at one end.

Comparable to a longeing exercise, work your horse at the walk on a circle, sending him through the passage on one side of your circle. Be sure to work in both directions.

Malinoski says that while this exercise teaches young horses to be more accepting of tight spaces and lays the groundwork for future trailer loading success, it can also work well for older horses that have developed trailer loading problems.

Getting Your Horse to Successfully Self-Load

Once your horse is doing well with the squeeze game, it’s time to get back to loading. To prepare, you should outfit yourself and your horse just as you did for the squeeze game.

Malinoski begins by working the horse behind the trailer with the doors closed. You can do this by spending a few minutes reinforcing your send-off command at the walk on a small circle in both directions.

Next, open the trailer doors. Using the same commands, send your horse onto the trailer. Have patience and be prepared to drop back and reinforce his skills before trying again.

If the behavior isn’t too deeply confirmed, the session may advance quickly, but in more deeply ingrained instances, it may take a few sessions before your horse is well on his way to being the self-loader you’ve always dreamed of.

Getting Professional Help

Sometimes even the best-laid plans can go awry, and your trailer re-training may not go the way you expected.

While Malinoski says that most amateurs who are solid in their ground handling skills should be able to tackle this issue, she recommends seeking professional help if your horse isn’t making progress, or if he’s regressing from his previous level of expertise.

“In these cases, you should focus on your groundwork away from the trailer and find a professional to help you in the trailering situation,” she advises.

This article about teaching a horse to self-load in the trailer appeared in the May 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Teach Your Horse to Self-Load in the Trailer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

While you can often ask for help, there is some peace of mind in knowing how to confidently back the trailer on your own. Don’t just shrug helplessly in defeat—backing a trailer is challenging, but less difficult than some of the skills you’ve mastered on your horse.

1. Practice Ahead of Time

It might sound mundane to practice backing a trailer. Life is busy enough as it is—you’re lucky to carve out enough time to take your horse out on the weekends, let alone practicing backing with an empty trailer when you don’t need to.

But think of it this way—you wouldn’t expect to load your horse for the very first time on show day. Instead, you would take time and carefully train him to safely and efficiently load in the trailer long before you need to take him to a show. So why treat yourself any differently?

Learn your backup procedures in a quiet, low-pressure environment where you have plenty of time to think through the steps without a deadline, without horses in the back that need to get on the road, and without your tired family demanding fast food for the trip home.

2. Learn the “Reset” Trick

First, learn how to recover from mistakes. If your trailer starts to pivot too quickly away from the truck, do this:

◆ Stop.

◆ Straighten the wheel.

◆ Pull forward slowly.

◆ Watch what’s happening behind you and pull forward until the truck and trailer are perfectly straight again.

◆ Now you’re reset and ready to keep trying. If you have room, you can reset at any time and quickly recover from a potential jackknife.

3. Try a Simple Turn in Reverse

The key to controlling your trailer in reverse is to understand how to make turns. This is the secret:

◆ Use the reset trick to get the rig completely straight.

◆ Stop moving.

◆ Turn your truck’s steering wheel in a direction opposite of what you want the trailer to do (this is probably the biggest mental challenge to overcome). For instance, if you’d like the trailer to turn to the right, start by turning your steering wheel left. Turn the wheel about half the way to its maximum distance. If you turn too little, not much will happen. If you turn too much, you get into jackknife territory.

◆ Move the rig in reverse a short distance—say 3 or 4 feet.

◆ Stop again.

◆ Take a good look at what has happened so far. There should be a gentle bend at the hitch between your truck and trailer—and your trailer should be aimed to the right a bit.

◆ Turn the steering wheel back to the right, so that the truck now follows the trailer’s path (this is important!).

◆ Start going in reverse again and keep a careful watch on what’s happening.

◆ If all goes well, the truck and trailer should stay in a nice gentle turn for as long as you need, with the truck following behind.

◆ Make small adjustments to the steering wheel to keep the curve the way you want it (see next step).

4. Make Tiny Adjustments as You Go

Whether you’re performing a turn or just backing straight up, the trailer will want to start deviating from its path the whole time, and you have to be ready.

◆ If the trailer starts drifting too far right, turn the steering wheel harder to the right to catch it.

◆ If the trailer drifts left, turn left harder.

◆ Imagine that the trailer is balancing in the air on its hitch and you have to move the truck to stay underneath it and keep it upright.

◆ Stop and think whenever you need to.

◆ Remember to use the reset trick early—if you do it before you get into big trouble, it only takes a couple seconds to fix problems.

5. Start Off Small

Part of what makes a horse trailer so difficult to maneuver in reverse is that it’s big and you can’t see everything around it. To help you master backing, try practicing with something more manageable, like a riding lawnmower or ATV with a little garden cart.

The steering concepts are identical, but you can effortlessly see what’s happening behind you and learn faster. This is a very helpful way to master the skill of backing a trailer.

6. Use Those Mirrors

Your side mirrors are important for helping you avoid obstacles while you’re backing, so use them to your advantage. You can even purchase side mirror extenders designed specifically for towing. But you also need to look out the back window (it will help you see how the trailer is pivoting) and out the driver’s side window.

The backup process doesn’t have to be fast. You can always stop moving, look out the window, and see what’s happening. You may even want to get out of the truck to take a closer look.

7. Try a Back Up Camera

If you have a newer vehicle, it almost certainly has a backup camera pre-installed. But did you know you can easily purchase an add-on backup camera for your horse trailer?

A backup camera will aid you in making precise turns in reverse, but the real way these shine is by showing you what’s in your blind spot directly behind the trailer. It’s a good safety tool. Some of these systems allow you to add an interior camera for watching the horses, too.

8. Keep the Trailer Hitched

Maybe you need your tow vehicle as a daily driver and can’t leave it attached to the trailer for any length of time. But if it’s not, consider leaving your truck and trailer connected for a week. Go out each day and practice backing into parking spot lines in an empty parking lot. Without adding in the hookup time, you’ll be more inclined to practice.

Backing the trailer is a very important skill to learn if you haul your horse at all, and should make life a little less chaotic next time you’re on the road with your animals. Good luck!

This article about how to back a horse trailer appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Back a Horse Trailer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

For many of us, enjoying our horses involves transportation with a truck that can tow a horse trailer. Whether it’s hauling to a show or event, meeting friends at the trail head for a long ride or heading out for a weekend of camping and riding, you want to get there—and home again—safely. In a perfect world, you’d know exactly what your hauling needs are going to be so you could buy a truck and horse trailer at the same time. In reality, it rarely works out this way.

NRS Trailers is one of the country’s largest premier trailer dealerships, with locations in five states. Rusty Willis, general manager and service manager at the Ocala, Fla., location has worked in the trailer industry for 30 years. In his experience, many horse owners who are buying their first trailer or upgrading to a better trailer are hoping to get by with using their current vehicle to tow it.

Willis says the most common towing mistake is trying to pull too much trailer with a less-than-sufficient tow vehicle. The danger here is that the loaded trailer can end up controlling the situation, which can lead to disaster.

“People ask me all the time, ‘Can my truck pull this trailer?’” says Willis. “Their truck might be able to pull it, but being able to stop safely is the most important part of hauling anything. This is the biggest liability. The biggest folklore around is just considering how much you can pull. It’s really about how much you can stop safely.”

Truck Specs for Pulling a Horse Trailer

Whether you already have a trailer or are shopping for one, knowing how much weight you’ll tow on a regular basis tells you if you have enough vehicle to safely do the job—or if you’ll need something different.

Add together:

◆ The weight of trailer
◆ The weight of horses
◆ The weight of all tack and gear

This gives you a starting point of what your vehicle must have in towing capacity, which is listed in the owner’s manual.

It’s over-simplifying to say a half-ton truck (like the Ford F-150, Ram/Chevrolet/GMC 1500, and others) is always fine for a two-horse trailer. That’s because the same model and year truck can have a different engine size, transmission, rear axle ratio and wheelbase.

For example, the range of towing capacity of the 2020 Ford F-150 differs by several thousand pounds (7,700 to 13,200 pounds), depending on the engine, even though they are all rated as half-ton trucks (half-ton refers to the carrying capacity in the cab and bed of the truck).

Engines also vary in horsepower and torque. Torque, which is the power that gets the wheels moving from a stop, is considered more important than horsepower when towing. The more weight you’re hauling, the more torque you need.

The increased torque in some newer models enables a half-ton truck with a six-cylinder engine (V6) to pull more weight than the same model truck with an eight-cylinder engine (V8).

A truck manufacturer’s website can tell you what a truck is rated to pull, but you should know that these figures are not designed with live cargo in mind. A boat or camper isn’t going to shift and move around like live animals can. Towing experts advise that any time you’re hauling live cargo, you should stay below 70 to 75 percent of the vehicle’s max tow rating.

Tow ratings also don’t take into account terrain, which is important to consider if you’re regularly hauling in areas with significant uphill and downhill driving.

Fuel efficiency should never be your first priority when selecting a tow vehicle. Yes, we all want to save money, but a tow vehicle that is safe and powerful enough to pull and stop your precious cargo is more important than saving a few bucks at the pump.

To safely pull a horse trailer, your truck will need a tow package, which typically includes a heavy-duty class V hitch, wiring harness, and brake control. Depending on the vehicle model, it may also include a heavy-duty battery, transmission cooler, and other features.

Most full-size trucks have an anti-lock brake system (ABS), but you’ll still want separate electric brakes on your trailer.

A frame-mounted hitch, welded directly to the vehicle’s frame, is necessary for towing a horse trailer. The fifth wheel (also called a gooseneck) hitch is mounted to the frame in the middle of the truck bed and centered over the rear axles.

The wide variety of trucks and trailers on the road today testifies to the fact that horse owners have very different wants, needs and budgets. Below is a look at three broad categories, one of which you are likely to fall into.

Weekend Warrior

Typically, this is the single-horse owner who hauls regularly to events and/or trail rides. Their trailer might have a tack compartment, but not living quarters.

Paige Macfarland (no relation to writer) of Green Valley, Ariz., tows a straight-load two-horse, bumper pull CM trailer to take her Quarter Horse gelding to trail rides, and often hauls a friend’s horse as well. Her trailer weighs 2,500 pounds empty, and when loaded with two horses and tack, comes in just under 5,000 pounds.

Macfarland bought the trailer new nine years ago when she was towing with a 2008 Ford F-150.

“A couple years ago, I upgraded to a 2016 F-150 with 3.5L EcoBoost Twin-Turbocharged V6,” says Macfarland. Her new truck has a max towing capability of 12,200 lbs.

“This engine is a step up, and my other truck was getting up there in mileage,” she says. “I had the tow package added, so I got exactly what I wanted, although now I wish I’d gotten the back-up camera.”

Make Sure Your Truck is Up to Hauling Horses

An owner of two to three horses who hits the road regularly, driving varying distances, usually has a three-horse slant-load trailer with a tack room and perhaps living quarters.

When Jill Brown of Williston, Fla., bought her three-horse slant-load, all-aluminum Shadow trailer, the dealer assured her their 2017 Ford F-150 with 2.7L EcoBoost V6 engine could handle it.

The 18-foot-long bumper pull trailer with front tack room is 7’6″ tall, which adds some wind resistance, and weighs 2,400 pounds. Loaded with three horses plus equipment, the total weight is about 6,000 pounds, which was well below the truck’s towing capacity.

“I was able to pull it, but the truck frame just wasn’t stout enough, and the mileage dropped to 10 mpg when towing,” says Brown, who upgraded to a 2012 Ford F-350 dually with 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine.

“This truck is more than sufficient for towing, and with the diesel engine, I still get 15 mpg even when towing a full load,” says Brown, who regularly hauls the family’s three horses to area trail rides and team sorting events. “It’s always better to have more power than you need. Plus, with it being a dually, it’s very stable when towing; you can’t even tell if the horses are moving around.”

Willis explains that a one-ton dually can tow more weight than the same size truck with single rear tires behind because dual wheels offer more stability and less drift.

Equine Professional

Making a living with horses means routinely hauling multiple horses. Professional horsemen often have a gooseneck trailer with living quarters and tack room, as well as space to haul up to six horses.

Willis explains that some larger, high-end trailers have conversion package living quarters that use heavier wood than standard models, adding to the overall weight. Increased weight and horse trailer length can push the towing limits of even a one-ton dual-wheeled truck.

“You can have a 30-foot trailer that weighs 15,000 pounds when loaded,” says Willis. “You might get by with a one-ton truck, but you’re borderline needing more.”

Manufacturers such as Freightliner, Kenworth, International and Peterbilt all offer sport chassis hauler models (“small semis”) designed specifically for towing large gooseneck horse trailers. Domestic truck manufacturers like Ford, Chevy, and GMC also build trucks with engines beyond the classic one-ton size. Expect all of these engines to be diesel.

A standard driver’s license may not be adequate if you need to step up to a truck and horse trailer with a gross combined weight rating (GCWR) of 26,001 pounds or more. Check with your state for specific license requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size truck do I need to pull a horse trailer?

This depends on the weight of the horse trailer, the weight of horses you’ll be hauling, and the weight of all tack and gear that may be in the trailer. Once you’ve done the math, towing experts suggest that any time you’re hauling live animals, you should stay below 70 to 75 percent of the vehicle’s max tow rating.

What features does a truck need to tow a horse trailer?

To safely pull a horse trailer, your truck will require a tow package. This usually includes a heavy-duty class V hitch, wiring harness, and brake control. Depending on the vehicle model, it may also include a heavy-duty battery, transmission cooler, and other helpful features for towing a horse trailer.

This article about choosing the right truck to tow a horse trailer appeared in the June 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Finding the Right Truck to Tow a Horse Trailer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

No matter how much you enjoy riding away from home at shows or on trail rides, you probably cringe at the gas pump watching the total spiral ever higher when you have to fill up your tow vehicle. Tow vehicles aren’t known for their fuel efficiency, but there are things you can do to improve your gas mileage while hauling a horse trailer so you can pay less at the pump. Routine maintenance, attention to detail, and better driving habits will all lead to a trip that is a little lighter on your wallet.

Watch The Weight of Your Horse Trailer

One of the first things to consider is how much weight you’re loading onto your rig, which means you need to know what your trailer weighs when empty and loaded. The heavier a trailer is, the more it will cost in fuel to tow it.

Trailer weights are printed on the manufacturer’s statement of origin if you purchase your trailer new. Otherwise, it might be listed on a sticker inside the frame of the trailer. If all else fails, you can take your trailer to a public scale and weigh it. It’s best to do this both when the trailer is empty and fully loaded.

“What’s going to really kill your fuel mileage is if you’re asking too much of your tow vehicle,” says Shane Jensen, sales manager at Trails West Manufacturing in Preston, Idaho. “For instance, say a half-ton truck has a towing rating of 8,000 pounds from the bumper hitch. If you get a big three-horse, 8-foot wide trailer that is 7’6″ tall, it already weighs around 7,000 pounds. Put three horses in it, and it’s going to cost you.”

Even if you have a trailer well within your vehicle’s tow rating when loaded, anything you can do to lighten the load will improve your mileage somewhat, says Chad Toney, who owns The 20X Custom Shop LLC. His business, located in Elizabeth, Colo., does trailer repair and fabrication and sells towing accessories.

“The best ways to improve fuel mileage are to limit engine load and limit weight,” Toney says. “Weight is tough to manage, but if you’re chasing MPGs [miles per gallon], it’s worth leaving what you don’t need at home.”

Once you’ve calculated your vehicle and trailer’s tow weight correctly, you will need to make sure the trailer’s weight is distributed evenly on its axles. Too much weight on the tongue will cause it to weigh down the tow vehicle and ride more on the trailer’s front axle. This lowers fuel efficiency because the aerodynamics of the trailer are designed for level towing.

“If you’re really squatting down your tow vehicle, you should ask your dealership for a weight distributing hitch,” Jensen says. “What that does is distribute the weight off the back end [of the vehicle] and push it forward, so the front axle of the tow vehicle is helping handle the weight. On top of probably saving your fuel mileage, you’re safer [due to reduced sway and] you’ve got better steering stability.”

Slow Down to Improve Gas Mileage

Just like weight, speed is another factor that can cause a huge decrease in the gas mileage you get while hauling your horse trailer. When you’re on the road, it can be tempting to try to get there as quickly as possible, but that only leads to more money and time spent fueling up.

Alex Taft, a non-pro reiner who shows in limited-age events, hauled to 18 shows last year chasing National Reining Horse Association Rookie Year-End titles. She estimated she spent more than $2,000 on diesel while driving her rig, which consists of an F-250 and a two-horse gooseneck trailer.

“We got the best mileage when we drove on the highway at times of the day when traffic was at a minimum,” Taft says. “That way, we could keep our speed around 60-65 mph, which seemed to be where our MPGs improved the most. Anything over that, and you could almost watch the fuel needle drop as you drove.”

Toney agrees significant gains in mileage can be found by keeping your speed around 60 mph. Plus, your trailer’s tire speed rating, which tells you how fast you can run on the interstate, is likely in that range, too. This number won’t affect your gas mileage as much as it will prevent you from having a tire blow out, but anything you can do to help your horse trailer or tow vehicle run more efficiently should show mileage gains—and save your wallet.

“Speed really kills you on fuel mileage,” Jensen concurs. “You can get a higher speed rating on a higher ply tire, like a 14-ply or a 16-ply for the tires that go on big living quarter trailers, but you’re not going to push them over 70. If you stay within the rating, though, you will save fuel mileage and problems.”

Air Up Your Vehicle & Horse Trailer Tires

Just like your horse’s routine farrier care can affect his well-being, how you maintain your tires will improve or worsen your mileage and risk when towing. Under-inflated tires have more friction on the road, which lowers fuel efficiency and increases the likelihood of a flat.

“In most cases, we recommend you run your trailer tires at near [PSI] capacity or whatever the sidewall [of the] trailer tire states,” Jensen says. “The sidewall will state the maximum PSI, and our specification is to air them up to the max. It does help your fuel mileage when you’re aired up properly, but you’re also less likely to have blowouts.”

Regular tire maintenance and rotation is one of the best ways to make sure you’re getting maximum performance out of your rig.

“Correct size and weight-rated tires will help,” Toney adds. “Larger and heavier tires take more power and fuel to start and keep moving. I see a few folks that want to run 14-ply tires on smaller trailers, and that will probably affect mileage and brake wear negatively.”

Take Care of Your Vehicle

Weight, speed and tire maintenance can all help add MPGs, but when you’re not towing, the best thing you can do to boost mileage is maintain your vehicle in general. Towing adds stress to a vehicle, so parts can wear out quickly. When things aren’t in working order, your mileage tends to suffer.

“We make sure our oil changes are done when needed, rotate tires regularly and keep the air filters clean,” Taft says. “When you haul horses, you typically are in dusty areas. A clean air filter can make a huge difference in how your engine performs.”

The type of vehicle you drive will factor into what you spend on maintenance, which could diminish your fuel savings. Diesels usually cost more to purchase, fuel up, insure and maintain than gas vehicles. If you’re only pulling a small horse trailer, it might actually be cheaper to tow with a gasoline-powered vehicle.

“Modern gasoline trucks are closing the gap in towing with the diesel trucks,” Toney said. “Those with a two- to four-horse trailer, even a smaller living quarters, should be happy with the newer gas trucks. Diesels will continue to be preferred for hauling larger trailers, but for the average horse owner, it’s well worth a serious look at newer gas-powered trucks.”

At the end of the day, hauling horses is always going to come with costs. But if you’re mindful of how much you’re towing, lower your speed, and keep your equipment in good order, your savings at the pump will really add up given today’s fuel prices. Then you can keep trucking down the road, best friend in tow.

This article about improving gas mileage while towing a horse trailer appeared in the June 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Gas Mileage While Pulling a Horse Trailer appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Many of us depend on trainers or friends to haul our horses to competitions, trailheads, or emergency veterinary appointments. That’s a sufficient strategy for some, but there’s a particular sort of freedom that comes from taking the leap and selecting a horse trailer of your own, especially if an emergency arises and a friend’s horse trailer is not available.

With an overwhelming array of options on the market, you won’t be starved for choice. Most trailer owners are glad to share their preferences, but it’s essential to choose the rig that’s right for you and your horse. Download our trailer-buying guide to help you navigate the market as you begin selecting a horse trailer.

Selecting Horse Trailer Basics

As you start your search, a couple of seemingly simple factors—both related to size—will direct the process of choosing a horse trailer

Interior Size: The first thing to consider when selecting a horse trailer is the size you need for your horse(s) to be safe and comfortable. A trailer that’s too tight can not only lead to injury, but can be a scary space to enter for nervous horses.

The average horse trailer is built for the average-sized horse, with internal dimensions ranging from 7 to 8 feet in height and 6 to 8 feet in width. Most Quarter Horses would fit just fine in the smaller models, but if you have 16-plus hand Thoroughbreds, you might want something taller, and if you ride Warmbloods, the stalls should accommodate wider bodies, as well.

If you’re towing Miniature Horses or draft horses, you may need a much more specialized horse trailer. According to the University of Maryland Extension, a good rule of thumb is that the trailer should be a minimum of 10 inches taller than your horse’s resting head height and allow 3 inches or more on each side.

Number of Horses: Next, you’ll want to ask yourself how many horses you plan to haul after selecting a horse trailer. Although single-horse trailers are popular in Europe, they are almost non-existent in the U.S. If, like most single-horse owners, you want the option of carpooling with friends or bringing extra hay for overnight trips, a standard two-horse size will do the trick and be easy to find.

If you own two or more horses, you may want a three-horse (or larger) with more tack space. Keep in mind that bigger trailers will often require a bigger (and more expensive) truck.

Selecting Horse Trailer Details

With size figured out, it’s time to start wading through the specifics. Factors such as hitch type, body type, and load style are all variable, and often dependent on individual preferences for both horse and human.

Hitch: Most horse trailers connect to your vehicle via either a hitch on the vehicle frame (a bumper pull) or a hitch in the bed of a pickup truck (gooseneck). If you decided to choose a trailer that will haul three or more horses, you may not have a choice, as most larger trailers are all goosenecks. If you’ve opted for a two-horse trailer, you’ll have more bumper pull options.

Bumper pulls tend to be smaller, more affordable, and can be hauled safely by smaller trucks or full-sized SUVs. They’re also more versatile if you already carry a truck camper or plan to use the bed of your pickup even when hauling your horse. Goosenecks, on the other hand, are larger and heavier, but also more stable and, despite their size, often easier to drive.

Stock vs. Enclosed Trailer: It’s important to consider various styles when selecting a horse trailer. Preference for stock versus horse-specific trailers is often dictated by familiarity, but also by where and how you’ll use the trailer. Livestock trailers tend to be basic, with open-slatted sides where windows would be on a horse trailer, and few bells and whistles. If you think you may need the flexibility of hauling a variety of animals, this will be the best option by default. But, if you only plan to haul horses, there’s more to consider.

Both stock and horse trailers can have good airflow—check for roof venting and windows that open in the latter. But, because their sides are partially open and insulation tends to be limited to non-existent, it is more difficult to regulate overall temperature in stock trailers. Furthermore, the screenless open slats increase the risk of road debris hitting your horse.

Load Position: Slant load or straight load? Everybody seems to have an opinion when it comes to load position, but there is little safety data to point to one over the other. Rather, as with most trailer features, this will come down to your and your horse’s needs.

Slant-loads make better use of the floor space, allowing you to haul more animals on a shorter wheelbase. This means the horse trailer can be easier to tow. They also tend to appear open, which is friendlier to anxious minds, and many horses are able to turn around and walk out, as opposed to backing out of a straight-load setup.

Since horses ride side-by-side in straight-load horse trailers, individual animals are easy to access and unload. They also let the horses balance on their front and rear legs during travel, which can be beneficial over long hauls.

Whichever load style you choose, dividers are useful for keeping multiple horses separate. If you only plan to haul one animal, you may want to remove dividers so they can ride in a box stall. Given a choice, most horses will turn around and ride facing backward, which is likely due to easier balancing in this position.

Steel vs. Aluminum: Most horse trailers are made of either steel or aluminum. Each material comes with its own advantages and disadvantages. Steel trailers, while strong, affordable, and easy to repair, are often heavy and more prone to rust. Aluminum trailers, on the other hand, are far lighter and can accommodate a heavier load. Although they don’t usually rust, aluminum trailers can corrode.

Ramp or Step-Up: The decision to get a ramp or step-up trailer is once again a personal one when choosing a horse trailer. Ramps can reduce the likelihood that a horse skins a leg while loading or unloading—hence their popularity among performance horses—but not all animals are comfortable walking on them.

Some horses dislike stepping up into or out of the horse trailer, especially if they are unloading backward. If you have a strong preference, most horses can learn to be comfortable with both; but, if you’re on the fence, let your horse’s preference be your guide.

Bonuses

Once you’ve decided on the type of horse trailer you want, it’s time to think about the range of features that can add comfort and convenience.

Tack Room: First, ask yourself whether you want a tack room and, if so, how you will use it. Will it be your primary storage area, even at home, or will you only use it on the road?

Tack rooms come in a variety of configurations and sizes; some even include a built-in water tank. If your chosen trailer has a rear tack room (fairly common in slant trailers), make sure it swings out to offer plenty of room for your horse to load and unload.

Lighting: In addition to legally required brake lights, tail lights, turn signals, and running lights, consider whether you need internal lighting for nighttime hauling and external lights, which are useful for tacking up or loading and unloading in the dark.

Sleeping Area: Whether you’re looking to save money on hotel stays at competitions or want a setup-free alternative at campgrounds, a horse trailer with sleeping quarters can be a worthwhile investment. And they are available in a variety of versions, from simple spaces for a cot and sleeping bag to a camper with all the essentials plus luxuries for longer stays.

Used or New?

A pre-owned horse trailer can be a great purchase for first-timers who don’t quite know what they’re looking for. But, if you’re buying used, it’s essential to check that the brakes, lights, flooring, hitch, and frame are all in good condition.

Your best bet is to take it for a “vet check” with a professional trailer mechanic.

Horsepower

Even the best horse trailer is no good without a vehicle to haul it. If you already have a truck, use this as your starting point for trailer shopping, or make sure to verify that it has the towing capacity to safely pull your trailer, horses, and gear.

If you don’t have a vehicle yet, keep in mind that bigger horse trailers will require a burlier vehicle. While some small trailers can be pulled by a full-sized SUV, most will require a truck.

This article about selecting a horse trailer appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.