This article outlines the six equine characteristic criteria, of varying degrees of importance, that are used in the ECAT and can be considered as part of your decision-making process when assessing a new horse. While each horse is unique, there are common traits that can help in assessing all. 

When considering a horse, in addition to seeking soundness, conformation and paces suitable for the intended purpose, there are characteristics that can be considered when matching mounts with riders. These criteria emphasize the level of challenge a particular equine trait may represent from a rider safety perspective.  

Level of Sensitivity

Sensitivity is extremely important to consider when selecting a horse. Sensitivity is both genetically inherent and experiential. Experiential sensitivity can be increased or decreased, according to ongoing handling as trainers sensitize and desensitize to specific stimuli. However, a genetically Highly Sensitive Horse (HSH) will always be that. While it is possible to increase tolerances for specific experiences and situations, the HSH will always present a greater challenge.  

High sensitivity is far more than physical in nature, but it does include the physical. HSHs can present with a very low pain tolerance threshold but in fact, they feel pain more intensely.    

In addition to physical sensitivity, the HSH has a heightened mental-emotional sensitivity. These horses are hyper-alert, making them aware of subtleties in their environment that others are not. This can lead to them being overstimulated and overwhelmed.

Beyond the heightened five senses, HSHs are quite intuitive. These horses are acutely aware of what the rider is feeling and are deeply affected by rider fear and stress.  

HSHs do not do well with change. Change could be as simple as schooling in a new place or something even more benign. There are many techniques for helping HSHs succeed, but they are not well understood even by the best trainers.

The horse that is merely physically sensitive will prove more challenging for the novice rider, but the Highly Sensitive Horse should be considered significantly more challenging for all.

Temperament 

Temperament is a very important consideration in assessing a horse. Horses are generally categorized as hot, warm or cold. Hotter horses, like Arabians and Thoroughbreds, tend to be more reactive with high energy. Colder horses, like drafts, are more laid-back and slower to react. Warmbloods aim to combine the athleticism and stamina of the hot horse with the more passive disposition of the cold horse. 

Temperament is important, particularly when combined with other character traits. For instance, a hot horse with a strong fear trait will more easily exhibit flight responses and bolt in unfamiliar or stressful situations. If this hot horse is prevented from running off in that instant, explosive bucking or rearing is more likely than with the cold horse. A cold horse may buck or rear, but he is much more likely to give it up quickly as it takes too much energy. A cold horse with the same strong fear trait is more likely to stop and may even freeze, giving the rider an opportunity to dismount. 

A hot horse should be considered more challenging and when combined with other challenging traits, the horse can be unsafe for less experienced riders.

Level of Fear

Fear is another very important consideration. Like sensitivity, fear can be inherent and experiential. For the experiential aspect, a horse may have been traumatized or made more fearful with improper handling.

While thoughtful handling can help even the genetically fearful horse build confidence, each time a new idea or challenge is introduced, the fearful part will likely emerge. For some horses, even moving a familiar fence to a different spot can be considered a new challenge.

The fearful horse should be considered more challenging.

Previous Experience and Training

Previous experience and training is important to consider. A horse that has successful experience in the intended discipline will be less challenging than one trained for a different purpose. For example, transitioning a racehorse or barrel racer, trained with explosive speed, into an easier-going hunter or dressage horse requires skill and time.  

When the previous training and history of the horse is unknown, as often is the case in an auction, assume the horse will be challenging. Some horses have suffered abuse and trauma and will carry those wounds until a skilled and caring human can help them heal.  

Retraining a horse into a different discipline or retraining a horse that suffered abuse and trauma can be considerably more challenging.  

Dominance 

Dominance is another important aspect to consider when selecting a horse. This is not just resource guarding. Horses are wired for a level of dominance. An alpha dominant’s large-and-in-charge way of going is not hard to spot in a herd. 

The alpha dominant horse is more likely to attempt to assertively express his desires over that of the handler/rider. If the alpha dominant horse is also easily overwhelmed, as in the case of the HSH, he will more often offer resistance and try to take charge.

Other horses will have dominant qualities and take advantage of opportunities to move up the pecking order.  

The dominant horse will likely be more challenging than the submissive horse.

Gender 

Gender may be an important consideration. A stallion can be more animated and may often have another agenda, primarily the proximity of available mares. At the show or on the trail, it may be more challenging to get his undivided attention.  

Mares go through hormonal cycles that can affect consistency. There are times during her cycle when she may be experiencing discomfort.

A gelding is most likely the best bet for a Steady Eddy.

Stallions and mares should be considered potentially more challenging than geldings.    

Key Takeaway

This information is generalized and only intended to be a guideline when evaluating a horse to determine the probable level of challenge that horse will present to a rider. There are always exceptions. The best course of action, when looking for a horse, is to seek help from an equine professional and your equine veterinarian.    

A single criterion may be enough to help you decide against owning a particular horse. However, when deciding in favor of a horse, the best analysis is done when considering the combined criteria.   

Incorporating the identified criteria into your equine assessment and decision-making process could help you choose the right horse. 

Try the online Equine Challenge Assessment Tool (ECAT) here.

This article about using the Equine Challenge Assessment Tool (ECAT) when choosing a horse is a web exclusive Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you’ve never been a part of purchasing a horse before, be warned, it can be a little stressful. Horses are a big investment, and even if you aren’t the one paying for it, you’ll be investing your time and talents into it. It’s important to do your homework beforehand so that not only will your horse-buying experience be a positive one, but you’ll also make the best choices to purchase the right horse. This guide will be your best friend as you prepare for buying a horse.

Hold Your Horses

First off, it’s important to remember that unless you know the horse already, there’s a lot to consider. Many times you have to look at and try out several horses before you find the perfect match. It’s an exciting experience, but letting your “excited” emotions take over can mean that you don’t get exactly what you want. Let’s take a look at some questions you need to ask and things you need to look for before buying a horse.

Things to Ask Before You Go Look at the Horse

◆ Ask the horse’s age and if it’s been verified by a vet or equine dentist.

◆ Ask about the horse’s history and if there are health concerns.

◆ Ask if the horse has any vices and why they are selling the horse.

◆ Ask how the horse behaves with other horses.

◆ Ask if the horse is suitable for a beginner, advanced beginner, or advanced rider.

◆ Ask if the horse ever leaves the farm and what he’s primarily used for. If you plan on showing, a trail horse that is only used for trail riding might not be a great fit unless you can devote time to lots of arena training.

◆ Ask if the horse is barn or buddy sour.

◆ Ask if the horse loads and trailers well.

◆ Ask if you can have access to the vet records and if the owner welcomes a pre-purchase exam.

◆ If the owner asks for a deposit to come look at the horse, dig deeper. Oftentimes, these are scams.

Things to Look For on the Ground

Is the Horse Hard to Catch?

When you pull up to the barn, the first thing you need to see is if the horse is already stabled or tied up for you. This can be a warning sign that the horse is hard to catch. You can always ask the owner if he’s easy to catch or not, but remember that not everyone is honest.

Is the Horse Sweaty?

The second thing you need to look for is if the horse has been worked before you arrived. Unless you are looking for a “project” horse, you want one that you can ride straight from the field without having a trainer run off his energy to make him rideable for you.

How Does the Horse Respond to Being Groomed?

While the horse is tied up, brush the horse down. Is he antsy while being tied? Can you spray him with fly spray? If you plan on blanketing, how does he respond to having a blanket put on his back? Can the owner easily pick up and hold all four feet?

What is the Horse’s Standing Posture Like?

Ask the owner to walk the horse in a circle and stop. Take a look at his responsiveness to his handler. Evaluate his gait. And pay special attention to his standing posture. The way the horse stands can tell you a lot about his soundness. If he’s parked out (standing with legs far apart) or has his legs parked in (standing with legs close together), this can be a sign of hoof or back pain unless the horse is a breed that naturally parks out. If the horse frequently shifts his weight on his front feet, that could be a sign of navicular disease. If you see any of these behaviors, it’s not necessarily a deal-breaker but it’s a good idea to take note of them and talk to your veterinarian about them during your pre-purchase exam.

How Does the Horse Respond to Being Saddled?

Pay attention to the horse’s attitude about being saddled. Many horses can be a little grouchy when you tighten the girth, but if a horse turns into a fire-breathing dragon with a mane, it might mean that he has back or ulcer issues. Also, check to see if the horse easily takes the bridle or if he holds his head up when you try to put the bridle on or freaks out when you take it off.

Things to Look For In the Saddle

Always ask the owner to ride first. Not only can you see if the horse is safe before you get on, but you can also see how the horse moves from the ground. Ask the owner to walk, trot and canter.

Can the Rider Easily Get on the Horse?

Does the horse stand still for the rider to get on from the ground? Will he stand quietly next to a mounting block or is he moving away and walking off?

Is the Horse Sound?

Pay attention to the legs. Is the horse short-striding on one leg? Is it “bunny hopping” in a canter? Again, a limp could be the result of something like a small field injury but it could also mean big trouble for the long-term soundness of the horse. If you see any soundness issues, consult with your vet.

How is the Horse Holding His Head?

A horse’s head position can tell you about his soundness. If a horse is bobbing his head excessively in a trot, this can be a sign of front-end lameness, another sign of navicular. A horse that holds his head extremely high during the trot or canter can either need more training, have mouth or teeth issues, or could be indicating pain either from saddle fit or lameness.

Does the Horse Know His Leads?

When the horse is cantering, pay attention to the leads. Although a good trainer can teach you and the horse how to get the correct lead, it’s still something to look for if you plan on showing the horse.

Can You Ride the Horse Off by Himself?

One of the most frustrating bad habits a horse can develop is barn and buddy sourness. This means a horse gets anxiety when he leaves behind his home and friends. Even if you plan on using the horse for trail riding with others, it’s important that he has the confidence to leave them without a fight.

How Do You Feel About the Horse?

If this horse is checking all your boxes, the next thing to ask yourself is how you feel. It’s important to be honest with yourself here. Sometimes we get caught up in a horse’s color or the excitement of the day but we need to stop and take time to really feel the horse’s energy. Does he have a comfortable gait? Do you feel safe? Is he friendly on the ground? Can you see yourself connecting with this horse?

I’ve Asked All the Questions — Now What?

Just remember, if you really like the horse but there’s an issue with something mentioned above, talk to the owner—and, if applicable, your trainer—about your concerns. If it’s not the right fit, it’s okay to walk away. It’s also okay to take a moment to think about your decision and discuss your feelings with trusted individuals like a trainer. And the importance of a pre-purchase exam by a licensed veterinarian is paramount. They can be a bit pricey but are worth it if it keeps you from purchasing a horse that you can’t ride or isn’t exactly what you want.

And the most important thing—have fun with it. Buying a horse is a huge decision but an exciting one. Enjoy the experience of riding other horses and searching for your new best friend!

This ultimate guide of questions to ask when buying a horse is a web exclusive for Young Rider and Horse Illustrated magazines. Click here to subscribe!

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We worry about our horses being too hot or too cold or exposed to sudden weather fluctuations. We stand in stores reading fly spray labels to determine which might work best and fret about whether a rain sheet, mid-weight, or heavy turnout rug is necessary, only to then worry about our horse sweating or shivering under it if we pick the wrong one.

Therefore, it’s not surprising that our overworked minds might miss something. Problems pop up like pasture weeds. Here are 10 potentially problematic horse care mistakes to keep on your radar.

1. Over-Blanketing

Opinions about blanketing horses are as fraught with emotion as those about keeping newborn babies warm. Is the baby cold? Too warm? Is the blanket too tight, too loose? When should it be removed? The decision to blanket depends primarily upon weather conditions, temperature, available shelter, and your horse’s hair coat.

If your horse lives outdoors and wears a turnout rug, it should be removed daily for grooming while his skin is checked for rubs and his overall body condition is noted. Clipped horses have their natural protection removed, and need heavier blankets than horses with natural coats. Rain sheets and mid-weights are often enough for unclipped horses, while heavy rugs and neck covers are usually needed if the horse is clipped, thin, or used to a warmer climate.

Many healthy animals with a natural coat don’t need blanketing in winter as long as they have access to shelter from wind and precipitation. Blankets should always be removed if your horse is sweating underneath. It’s easier and far worse for a horse to overheat than be uncomfortable from cold or breezy weather, so err on the side of under-blanketing instead of over-blanketing.

2. Moldy Hay

Buying hay is always a challenge and has become more so in the last decade. Small square bales have given way to large ones, and round bales are practically impossible to assess for quality.

Drought conditions have made the supply smaller, with farmers baling fewer cuttings every year. Prices are high, requiring long searches for good hay in a tough market. Too often, when hay prices get high, horse owners are tempted to lower their standards and feed bales they would typically reject. This is risky, since bad hay causes respiratory problems and can be fatal if it is contaminated with blister beetles or toxic plants.

Never mistake tight, heavy bales or a green tint for quality, as weight can indicate that the hay was baled damp and the green color can be sprayed on like a faux lawn. There’s no substitute for your eyes and nose.

Learn what good hay looks and smells like and always inspect a few bales before you purchase. Even if you board your horse, always keep a close eye on what he is eating and insist on quality hay.

3. Dusty Bedding

Dusty bedding, hay, and arena footing can trigger equine asthma, a respiratory disease that is much harder to treat than to prevent. When buying pine shavings, check the wrapper to make sure you are buying the dust-free option. The cheaper products can become very expensive if your horse ends up with a persistent cough.

Shredded newspaper is the lowest-dust bedding available, although it may not be feasible to find in all areas. Straw bedding is the highest in dust.

4. Cluttered Barn Aisles

Your barn aisle is ground zero for your horse activities. It should be de-cluttered periodically and assessed for safety.

A horse may have gone in and out of his stall without incident for years, but it only takes one mistake for a door handle to slice his flank enough to require stitches. Protruding tack hooks and slippery footing are other avoidable accidents waiting to happen.

Cross-ties should always have breakaway hardware fastened closest to the wall so if you need to unfasten it in an emergency, you aren’t as close to a panicking horse. A loop of baling twine between the hardware and the wall hook is another breakaway point that will hold everyday forces but gives in case of a panicked pull-back.

Another potential hazard is the placement of feed containers in the aisle in front of stalls. Many horses are escape artists, and nothing tempts them like available food they know is just inches away.

5. No Pre-Purchase Vet Check

Both experienced and novice horse buyers often skip a pre-purchase exam for a variety of reasons: cost, inconvenience of scheduling, not knowing a local veterinarian where the horse is located, and believing they have the skills to detect conformation flaws or signs of looming disease.

A pre-purchase exam is not a health guarantee because the vet is only examining what exists the day of the exam, but any major issues will be a red flag to a professional who treats horses on a regular basis.

Laminitis has a lingering imprint in the ridges on a horse’s hooves; a heart murmur declares its presence through a stethoscope; and lameness is often subtle and difficult to detect—all are best assessed by a veterinarian. The fee for this service is tiny compared to owning a horse that you can’t sell in good fait.

6. Contracts for Horse Sales or Lease Agreements

The era of closing a horse sale with a handshake is long gone, yet many purchase agreements today have an abysmal paper trail. We live in a world that requires documentation as protection against lawsuits and disputes between parties who can’t remember the details of the original transaction.

7. Failing to Pre-Check Your Trailer

You’ve probably been there before: You’re in such a hurry to get on the road to the horse show or late for that trail ride that you skip the checklist of pre-departure truck, hitch and trailer inspections before starting the engine.

Owning a new trailer does not preclude a safety check on door and window latches, air vents, butt bars (if you have them), tire inflation, trailer lights, hitch connections, and electric wiring. Trailer windows should be open (with grills closed) based on weather and predicted inside temperature once underway. Most of the time, the temperature inside the trailer is much hotter than outside.

8. Buying and Keeping an Unsuitable Horse

Far too many people fall in love with a horse at first sight (or photo), throw caution to the wind and buy it, only to soon discover he’s not suited to their skills or needs. Disappointed new owners may resist selling because they are already emotionally committed. This situation typically ends with the horse as a pasture pet or the owner hiring a costly trainer to fix what usually can’t be fixed—an unhappy owner paired with an unsuitable horse.

Buy a horse for what you want to do with him, not because he’s a fashionable breed or has a flashy coat. Buyers should remember the adage, “A good horse is never a bad color.”

9. Trying New Things While Your Horse is Distracted

Don’t set yourself up for failure by ignoring obvious warning signs when teaching your horse something new. Cold, windy weather is not the best time to introduce sidepassing or trail riding. Impending storms often usher in erratic behavior in horses and cause problems under saddle.

Avoid trying to train when the arena is filled with distractions like jumping ponies and galloping reiners. Your horse learns better when he can focus. Likewise, don’t expect concentration when it’s feeding time and all of the other horses are happily digging into their meal.

10. Spoiling Your Horse

Horses are like children in that they will take advantage of weak leadership, and they occasionally need correction. Failing to assert yourself as the leader of your “herd of two” usually ends in disappointment, if not injury.

If you can’t assert yourself enough to do this, your horse will step right into the role. Watch two horses turned out together and you’ll see they settle who is in charge within minutes, and every breach of that agreement will be challenged. Horse owners should never fall for the myth that horses love those who placate and spoil them. Horses respect clear leadership, not pushover love.

Every horse owner has made one of these mistakes in horse care and horsemanship, and probably asked themselves later why they didn’t listen to their inner voice telling them another day would be better to try something new. There is no need to learn a lesson the hard way!

This article about common horse care mistakes appeared in the November/December 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Vetting a horse in a pre-purchase exam (PPE) isn’t like looking into a crystal ball. A PPE can’t predict a life-threatening or career-ending injury or a catastrophic diagnosis. Nor is the exam meant to foretell a horse’s future health or anticipate maladies that he may incur, but like a house inspection, the purpose is to provide some reassurance for you as the potential buyer.

Questions to Ask When Buying a Horse

Before scheduling a PPE to cement your commitment to buying your dream horse once you’ve finally found him, you have some homework to do.

Begin with the following questions: What’s your skill level as a rider? What is the horse’s potential job­—reiner, jumper, trail horse? Does your trainer have a role in whether or not you purchase the horse? What is your financial situation? Can you afford long-term maintenance costs for a pre-existing condition?

According to Luke Bass, DVM, faculty member in the Equine Field Services Department of Colorado State University, the PPE reviews a horse’s medical history and an evaluates his current physical condition.

“We want to know the entire history of the horse, but it’s important to get your hands on the horse with a physical examination,” says Bass. “We’re not there to persuade the buyer one way or the other. We’re presenting facts. Some facts scare people, but it depends on what they’re willing to manage. For example, if a buyer is only going to ride a horse a couple of times a month, that’s different from showing a horse once a week on a national circuit. The pre-purchase exam isn’t an insurance policy, either. The exam is more like a house or vehicle inspection, allowing the buyer to have some confidence that they’re making the right decision when buying a horse.”

You’ll benefit from evaluating a horse for your current needs and future goals as your skills and goals advance and the partnership develops. You’ll want to assess the level of risk you’re willing to take and factor in potential health expenses and management requirements in your decision to buy or pass on a horse.

“Many people don’t exactly know what to look for when they’re buying a horse,” says Bass. “For example, parents will bring their 12-year-old daughter to ride the horse. They get along, but maybe the parents aren’t so savvy on medical conditions that may impact that relationship in the future. We want to ensure that we’re helping them make the right decision for their kid or themselves.”

The Changing of Pre-Purchase Exams

Older horse owners remember the simpler days of a PPE. The results were equally fundamental: Is the horse sound? Does he need his teeth floated? Is he generally healthy?

The content, complexity, and cost of a PPE has ballooned over the past 10 years, according to Diana DeBlanc, DVM, owner of Performance Equine Veterinary Services in Albuquerque, N.M.

“When I started practicing 25 years ago, a pre-purchase exam was pass/fail,” she says.

“I think the mindset has changed. If you’re a practitioner in the performance world, you have to be realistic and realize that you can find something wrong with every horse. Having ridden performance horses myself, I’ve always done my pre-purchases knowing that we may find an issue, but is this an issue that the owner wants to take on if it’s manageable? For example, a horse may exhibit [arthritic] changes in his hocks, but we may expect it with his job, and we can maintain it.”

The ballooning complexity and cost of a PPE over the past 10 years can influence the exam’s content, according to DeBlanc. For you as a buyer, determining whether a horse is healthy and sound may differ from someone who wants to dig deeper with advanced imaging.

As potential buyers become more educated and aware, PPEs evolve.

“Some people want me to listen to a horse’s heart and lungs, flex the legs, and make sure the animal is healthy,” says DeBlanc. “Other buyers want every bit of data and diagnostics available, including a menu of joint X-rays, an endoscope, and more.”

The ladder of a PPE’s content swells with each component, as does the cost. A PPE for the average horse owner ranges from $250 to $500. Four radiographs add around $200. A drug screen will set a buyer back $300 to $500.

Establishing a budget and understanding how costs can climb provide a guideline for your pocketbook prior to an exam.

A Menu of Options

Possible neurologic disorders, a higher risk of breed-specific genetic problems that have yet to surface, dental imperfections that affect a horse’s ability to perform, or conditions only confirmed by a blood test have changed how a PPE is executed.

The menu of options available could include such diagnostics as digital radiographs to detect bone splints or damage to the navicular bone, or ultrasounds to highlight soft tissue injuries in tendons and ligaments. An endoscopy examines the upper breathing airway, while a gastroscopy may be recommended for a horse with a history of gastric ulcers.

Drug screens are standard with PPEs for upper-level and financially valuable horses. These detect the presence of sedatives, steroids, anti-inflammatories, or pain killers used to mask pain or unsoundness, or to unnaturally enhance a horse’s speed or power.

However, customizing a PPE with advanced diagnostic tests can send the budget spiraling and may not be necessary. For example, an upper-airway endoscopy may be warranted if a horse exhibits coughing or stress during exercise, but it may not be needed if his breathing is normal.

Bass stresses three key areas where PPEs have changed the most: imaging techniques, communication skills, and buyer education.

“You probably still have to X-ray the legs, and maybe even ultrasound soft tissues, but the things that have changed the most are probably the evaluation of the axial skeleton and the impact that can have on the performance of the horse,” says Bass.

Open and honest communication channels between the buyer, seller and veterinarian pave the way for a thorough and accurate PPE. Communication skills for vets have evolved, too, according to Bass.

“I’m asking questions that allow me to learn more about the horse efficiently,” he says. “Veterinarians should ask a lot of open-ended questions and gather perspective from all parties. That’s our job.”

The Weight of Buying a Horse

The decision to buy a horse or pass on it is yours alone. Unsolicited but well-intended advice should never replace a thorough presentation of facts, scientific opinion, and approaches for maintenance and care required in light of an exam’s findings.

Every horse purchase is weighty and requires fairness, according to Bass.

“I try to treat every horse the same, whether it’s a backyard horse selling for $2,000 or a $1.5 million racing stallion. I want the buyer to have confidence that we are doing the pre-purchase exam the same way for every horse.”

This article about pre-purchase exams when buying a horse appeared in the September 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Because virtually every aspect of horse ownership carries some degree of risk, horse owners should consider the possibility that things can sometimes go wrong and lead to legal issues. In most common cases, the horse does not present the only risk: People who will be interacting with him can cause a multitude of problems, which in a worst-case scenario can land you in court as a horse owner.

Our generally optimistic outlook on life with horses is not often eroded by a fear of being sued. Most of us never expect it from loved ones or horsey friends, yet this precise situation happens with some frequency.

A myriad of hazardous situations involving horses can result in a lawsuit, most too complicated to resolve without an experienced attorney. Yet we offer horseback rides to family members, casually board horses on our properties for extra income, and lend our trailers to friends.

The following should not constitute legal advice—always consult an attorney for that—but these five topics are designed to give you an idea of the common areas of conflict that crop up in horse legal issues and court cases.

1. Buying and Selling

Far too many horse buyers are more emotional than careful when buying a horse, and thus they are amazingly cavalier about documenting the transaction. They fall in love with a horse, sometimes by merely looking at it online, and purchase it sight unseen.

Most buyers and sellers jot a few words on paper about the exchange of money and consider that sufficient to change ownership. It may be for some, but protection in a dispute about ownership is better ensured with a detailed and thorough contract that you can easily find if needed.

If presenting a contract—or signing one already drawn up—seems beyond the needs of the average horse owner, consider how many horse buyers wait for registration papers that never arrive, take possession of an injured horse upon delivery, or discover their new performance horse has a periodic lameness issue related to a previous case of laminitis that the seller neglected to disclose.

Sometimes the seller insists on a “right of first refusal” (see below), yet the buyer sells the horse without informing the former owner. What is the recourse when a sale is made on a proverbial handshake deal?

If hiring an attorney to draw up the specifics of a sale seems like overkill, at least consider using one of the many online equine sales contracts that provide a good starting point for buyers and sellers. Specific details or modifications can be added by either party to strengthen its viability, should a dispute arise.

2. Boarding

Most boarding stable owners are careful enough to require signed documentation from boarders limiting the business’s risk of liability in the event of an accident involving a boarder or their horse. That document typically outlines the rules established by the stable for everything from turning off arena lights to requiring all one-day riders or those test-riding a horse for possible purchase to sign a legal liability waiver.

High-profile boarding stable owners don’t rely on loosely worded boarding contracts with one-size-fits-all contractual language, because they know the cost of an attorney is minuscule compared to a judgment against them in a personal injury lawsuit.

More casual horse boarding operations would be wise to follow suit. Non-paying boarders or those routinely late with payments often present a problem that ends up with the horse as the only bargaining chip. In these situations, frustrated stable owners sometimes overstep legal boundaries.

“Declaring the stable to be the owner of the horse and selling it without following the law or putting the horse in the stable’s lesson program may not be legal,” says Julie Fershtman, a national trial lawyer, legal consultant, and author of two award-winning editions of Equine Law and Horse Sense. Fershtman is widely considered one of the top equine attorneys in the U.S.

“Stable owners of all types and sizes should be aware of their state agister’s lien statutes that give them a security interest in the horse that allows them to enforce the lien after a specified period of time has passed and the stable has performed specific procedures,” she says.

Boarding contracts typically include the Equine Liability Law for the state, and stable owners are also required in many states to post signs in the most visible barn areas to remind everyone of the inherent risk associated with horse activities. Copies of equine activity liability releases (sometimes referred to as waivers) should be on-site, signed and dated by non-boarders.

Some horse owners mistakenly believe equine liability waivers are not successfully defended in court, when the reverse is true. Even so, an equine liability release does not guarantee the stable cannot be held liable for any accident. For instance, a lawsuit can be brought by a boarder who can prove the stable owner has been negligent by failing to perform reasonable measures to protect the safety of boarders and their horses.

“Many in the horse industry misunderstand equine activity liability laws, currently found in 48 states, and wrongly assume that these are ‘zero liability’ laws,” says Fershtman.

“That is not true. Although many of these laws limit the basis for a claim or lawsuit, they typically allow for the possibility of certain types of claims to be brought.”

Horse owners sometimes view boarding contracts as routine paperwork that protects the rights of the stable owner, yet these signed agreements are often relied upon by both parties when a dispute arises.

3. Leasing or Share Boarding

While an arrangement for leasing a horse can be a win-win for both parties, the best way to make sure everyone is on the same page is to write down the terms, fees and exclusions, and require each party to read and sign the contract. Without a written reminder, the lessee may believe her payments are for the purchase of the horse rather than its temporary use.

That’s merely one of many disagreements that can arise when time passes and memories fail. A written contract can include standard terms, such as duration of the lease, payment schedule, which days are assigned to each rider, and who is authorized to ride the horse.

More detailed contracts can define liability issues, who is responsible for veterinary and farrier care, and whether the lessee has the option to buy the horse during or at the end of the lease. The more specific the contract, the greater the chance of a positive outcome.

4. Trailering

When you own a horse trailer, you can count on someone eventually asking to borrow it, use it in an emergency, or asking you to transport a horse in your trailer for a fee.

In these situations, you need to be aware of what your insurance policy will or will not cover. Those who assume their homeowner’s policy or car insurance will pay an accident claim involving a horse trailer and someone else’s property can live to regret it.

For example, a policy may cover personal use of your truck and trailer, yet consider you a commercial entity if you were paid to transport someone else’s horse. Unfortunately, insurance companies look for holes in your policy that allow them to deny claims. This is why policy holders never want to hear their insurance agent say, “read the fine print” after something goes wrong.

5. Insurance

Commercial horse businesses generally carry extensive insurance because their liability is multiplied by buildings, equipment, employees, boarders and visitors. Always know what your insurance specifically covers before you need it.

Trainers and riding instructors should be especially careful since they are on the “front lines” with more hands-on responsibility for clients and horses. Many carry umbrella policies that cover general liability insurance plus added coverage for care, custody, and control of their clients’ horses. The facility where training and riding instruction is conducted does not typically carry coverage that indemnifies trainers and riding instructors.

Horse owners and those in the horse industry shouldn’t live in continual fear of being sued, but we do live in a litigious society. Covering all bases with solid, detailed contracts, hiring a lawyer to handle complicated but common legal issues, and buying insurance specific to your horse activities is the best way to protect your assets.

This article about common legal issues in the horse world appeared in the May 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Cultural stigma leads us to believe that horse sellers are not trustworthy, but if you ask anyone who has sold a horse, they will tell you that horse buyers come with their own individual set of quirks. And yet we can all agree that faux pas and faux news just lead to bad sales and ruined horses.

But all of this can (and should) be avoided because at the end of the day, we all want the same thing: a good home for the horse, a good future for the rider, and a quick and seamless sale for the seller. Here are some dos and don’ts that can be followed to ensure success of all.

Advice for Horse Buyers

Do: Be Honest.

Be honest with the seller, your trainer, and also yourself. Don’t tell the seller that your budget is triple your maximum amount. Don’t tell your trainer that your goal is Advanced-level eventing if you’re still learning two-point. Don’t tell yourself that you want to retrain a green horse if you know you can only get to the barn once a week.

I’ve watched many people overestimate their ability and come try a horse that I would have never matched them with if honesty was at the forefront of the conversation. And that benefits no one, especially not the horse.

Don’t: Make Assumptions.

Don’t assume that because you are searching for an off-the-track Thoroughbred that it will be high-strung. Don’t assume that because you are getting a draft cross that it will be sound. Don’t assume that because you are buying from an Olympian that the horse will be trained. We all know the cardinal rule about assumptions.

Do: Your Homework.

Google the person who is selling and read the reviews. Whether that is simply by looking over their Facebook page or going as far as the Better Business Bureau, you can find a lot on the world wide web these days. A dishonest seller will have a trail, and you can find it.

Don’t: Be Obnoxious.

While knowledge is power, plenty of information can be gathered without harassing the seller. Pay attention to the details within the ad. If it says the horse is green broke, don’t call to see if it would be a good match for your child moving up from a pony. If it says the horse was born in 2014, do not ask its age. And if it says that the horse is priced “in the mid five figures” (aka $40,000-$60,000) and your budget is $5,000, don’t ask anything at all.

Do: Be Timely.

If a horse appears too good to be true, then book that plane ticket because other buyers are thinking the same thing. Well-advertised, athletic horses usually sell quickly, and you will need to promptly contact that seller, schedule a trial ride, and get out to see him. In the meantime, if you truly believe the horse will be a good fit, start investigating nearby veterinarians and getting your funds in order. It wouldn’t even be a bad idea to start looking into shipping.

Don’t: Drag Your Feet.

Once you have tried the horse and fallen in love, let the seller know of your interest quickly. Promptly schedule the veterinary pre-purchase exam, promptly review the exam’s findings, and promptly make your decision.

Until your name is on the contract and money is exchanged, you do not own the horse. Many times, sales fall apart for no known reason, and because of that, sellers can (and will) continue showing the horse to other buyers until that paperwork is finalized. Ethically, a pre-purchase exam holds the horse for a few days. But legally, sellers like me have to look out for both our own and the horse’s best interests. And that can mean the horse gets sold to someone else if you drag your feet.

Do: A pre-purchase examination (PPE)

Preferably the pre-purchase exam should be done with a veterinarian you or your own personal veterinarian trust. Gain as much information as you can afford and use that information in your purchasing decision.

Don’t: Pass/Fail a Horse.

A PPE is an awesome tool that gives you a baseline and can detect any serious injuries. What it cannot do is predict the future. Make sure that the veterinarian who is doing the PPE is trustworthy, but also make sure that you understand the process. PPEs don’t end with an A or an F, and there are plenty of grades in between.

Advice for Horse Sellers

Do: Be Honest.

Just like the buyer, honesty is the best policy. Honesty in the horse’s sanity, ability, soundness and desires. I have found that while brutal honesty may scare away the tire-kickers, it doesn’t scare away the perfect fit. Dishonesty is almost always discovered during the trial ride, PPE, or within the first few weeks, but in a world where all you have to show for yourself are your horses and your reputation, honesty can go a long way.

Don’t: Do Anything You’re Not Comfortable With.

I like to say that my gut instinct is my best tool for horse sales. If you don’t think the rider should jump during the trial ride, say so. If you don’t feel comfortable doing a trial, don’t do one. If you don’t feel absolutely thrilled with the match, even though the buyer is offering you full price, don’t sell the horse. This is a high-liability field, and protecting yourself is key. If your gut instinct is telling you something is wrong, trust it.

Do: Advertise Well.

So often I see sellers of nice horses wondering why they’re not getting any interest, and I can immediately point to their advertisement. I have found the horse is only 75 percent of the equation, and the advertisement is the other 25 percent.

Hire a professional photographer and get clear images of the horse’s conformation. It also helps to show the horse doing the job stated in the ad. Enlist a friend to get clean video of the horse: one with good lighting, good footing, and in landscape mode using the zoom feature.

The rule of thumb is that videos should be no longer than two minutes and include all three gaits. If you find yourself fast-forwarding at any point, the buyers have already clicked off. Showcase the horse to the best of your ability and use the photos and video to do so.

Don’t: Overprice.

An overpriced horse does nothing but limit profit. Time is money, and board is expensive. While it’s bothersome to hear that you could have gotten another thousand or two, selling quickly to a good home is the goal. Assess the horse realistically, price accordingly, and adjust when necessary.

Do: Have A Strong Contract.

The contract is all that you have beyond your word. Realize that you didn’t go to law school, and seek out legal advice. Learn your state’s equine laws and use them to your benefit. And when in doubt, ask other professional horse sellers for their assistance.

With each sale, contracts are amended, and with each amendment, the contract gets stronger. Use that strong contract. (See “Top 6 Mistakes” for more advice from a vet.)

Don’t: Accept Checks.

One of the greatest things I was taught is to trust no one. Money wire, cashier’s checks, or cash are acceptable forms of payment; personal checks are not. And don’t let the horse leave your property until the actual money is in your hand or in your account.

Buying and selling horses doesn’t have to be an exasperating process, and by following these simple rules and educating yourself for future success, it can be an exhilarating one. Listen, learn, and then get out there and have fun. Find the excitement and minimize the exhaustion. Happy horse hunting!

This article originally appeared in the May 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Dos and Don’ts of Buying and Selling Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

I feel that investigating a buyer is often overlooked. A seller trusts that the buyer does, in fact, have the experience and skills they state, and that the intended purpose they declared for the horse is genuine. However, what happens when the buyer isn’t being honest—intentionally or not? This can have a major impact on the future welfare of the horse in question, as well as your reputation as a seller.

1. Not taking at least two trial rides.

The top mistake to avoid when buying or selling a horse is not taking at least two trial rides. We all know that horses have good days and bad days. Buyers, you want to be sure you are OK with both before purchase. Sellers, you want to make sure the potential buyer can handle the naughty days.

2. Embellishing riding skills.

Buyers, if a horse is advertised as needing a professional program or requiring an intermediate rider, and you cannot actually provide these things, then don’t say that you can. Be honest with yourself and only express interest in horses advertised for your skill set, no matter how stunning the horse may be.

Sellers, if your horse has a tendency to spook, then disclose this information in the beginning. Be honest about your horse’s strengths and weaknesses to prevent disappointment and potential injury.

3. Not involving a trainer.

As a buyer, your trainer knows your riding abilities the best, and will be able to assess whether a particular horse is or is not appropriate for your skill set.

As a seller, this will help prevent a potential buyer from purchasing your horse and being disappointed if he is more than they can handle, or if he doesn’t have the talent their riding aspirations require.

4. Skipping the pre-purchase examination (PPE).

Yes, a horse is always sound the day before he’s lame, but a complete exam can uncover potential problems before they become an issue. For buyers, a pre-purchase exam can also help prepare you for managing any existing issues. You want to know what you are buying before the sale is final.

For sellers, a PPE provides all of the information to your buyer up front, preventing them from coming back later with accusations that you sold an unsound horse, or stating that they didn’t know about an existing issue.

5. Not investigating where the horse will be going.

Buyers, be honest about the husbandry situation you can provide, as well as if you have the time and finances to provide what that particular horse needs.

Sellers, get references from others in the horse industry that know the potential buyer. Make sure that they have the skills and the means to properly care for the horse. The welfare of the horse is always top priority, so make sure he will be happy in his new home.

6. Not using a purchase agreement.

The last mistake that can be avoided when buying or selling a horse is not using a purchase agreement. The particular terms can be flexible, as long as both parties are in agreement and understand what they mean. Should anything happen after the sale, both the buyer and seller will be thankful to have a signed agreement.

I have unfortunately had to see what happens when these mistakes are made. I can’t tell you how heartbreaking it is to have a horse returned to you, months later, in very poor condition. Buyers will make excuses, blaming you and blaming the horse, when in reality it was their own lack of experience that led to the issues.

Don’t let it be the horse that suffers due to lack of diligence on either side of the transaction.

This article originally appeared in the May 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Top 6 Mistakes to Avoid in Buying or Selling a Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Signs of the Time

It’s pretty obvious when you’ve outgrown your pony. Your upper body will tower above your pony’s neck and withers. If you make any sudden movements, you can unbalance him.

As you grow taller, your legs get longer, too. Eventually your feet will dangle several inches beneath his belly. Making contact with your pony’s sides will be difficult. To squeeze him forward with your leg, or nudge him with your heel, you’ll have to raise your heel and swing your leg back.

These contortions give you an insecure seat and make you a less effective rider. Plus, your equitation position will be ruined. Simply shortening your stirrups won’t solve the problem. In fact, it can make matters worse. Extra-short stirrups will force you to perch like a jockey on your pony’s back. You’re more likely to pop up and out of the saddle.

Outgrowing your pony involves more than simply getting taller. As you get older, you’ll also become heavier. That’s normal and healthy. Yet eventually your weight will be too much for your pony to carry comfortably. Even sturdy ponies will begin to struggle under a heavy rider, especially if asked to jump and canter.

Here are three more ways that your growing size can affect your pony:

• Since your entire body is maturing, you’ll soon need a bigger saddle. Unfortunately, the new saddle that fits you may not fit your pony. Remember that ponies are smaller than horses in every way. They have narrower withers and much shorter backs. A saddle that’s too big can place unwanted pressure on a pony’s sensitive loins (the area on his back just in front of the hindquarters). Over time, this can cause pain and injury to your pony.
• Your pony’s behavior may change. For example, he might seem grumpy. He may pin his ears, stop at jumps, refuse to canter or occasionally buck. Without realizing it, your growing size and increased weight may be hurting him. His back and legs may be sore. The bad behaviors are your pony’s way of expressing his unhappiness.
• Does it seem like you’re no longer winning blue ribbons? Judges could be sending a message that you and your pony are no longer a good match in competition. For example, an oversized rider can cause a pony to jump in poor form and move in short, choppy strides. It’s also hard for a judge to evaluate the equitation skills of a rider who’s mounted on an undersized pony. Rather than getting discouraged, compete on a more suitable mount.

Making the Switch

It can be a little scary to think about riding a horse, especially if you’ve only ridden a pony. Horses have longer strides than ponies. With every step they cover a lot of ground.

This is especially noticeable at the canter. At first, it may feel more like a gallop. Since a horse’s stride at the trot is also longer, posting will feel different, too. You’ll remain in the “up” position a bit longer than if you were posting the trot on a pony. A horse also has a more powerful jumping motion than a pony. There’s a strong push from behind when a horse leaves the ground. Such an effort means you’ll be suspended in the air longer than if you were jumping a pony.

Don’t be fearful of these changes in your riding. With a little bit of preparation, you’ll soon feel at home on a horse. Here are three tips to help make your move from horse to pony much easier:

1. Horses, just like ponies, come with all sorts of temperaments. Your first few rides should be aboard a gentle horse that is patient with young riders. An older lesson horse is usually a good choice. Your riding instructor might even attach a longeline so you can work in a slow, controlled circle until you feel comfortable.
2. Due to their size, horses often require more distinct, forceful cues than a pony. For example, you may need to squeeze extra hard with your legs to make a horse canter. Don’t get discouraged if it seems like you aren’t communicating with the horse. You just have to be persistent and strengthen your muscles. In each lesson, spend a few minutes riding without stirrups. Next, work on perfecting your two-point position. Both of these exercises will strengthen your legs, improve your seat and make you a more effective rider.
3. Your first full-sized horse should be a good match for your level of experience. Green horses (those that have just started their training) are typically not a good idea. Neither are spirited, high-energy horses. Moving up to a horse from a pony has its own challenges. Being overmounted on too much horse can lead to frightening situations. You could lose your confidence. Whether you lease, borrow or buy your first horse, be sure to choose wisely. Have an experienced horseperson—someone you trust—help you find a horse that can safely introduce you to bigger things.

How About a Hony?

Technically speaking, a pony is any breed of equine that measures 14.2 hands or less. Yet there are other horses that measure somewhere between 14.3 and 15.1 hands.

So, what do you call a horse that’s too tall to be a pony, but is shorter than the average English riding horse? Many equestrians fondly use the term “hony.” This unofficial label was created by combining the words horse and pony. Indeed, these little dynamos combine the best characteristics of a horse and pony.

A hony can be a wonderful option when it’s time to graduate from the pony ranks. They’re a good bridge between a true pony and a 16.2-hand or larger horse. This is particularly true if you’re a small-boned or petite person, or if you simply happen to be a bit timid.

This article originally appeared in the March/April 2018 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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