How Fly Spray Works

Although fly spray is a familiar product to horse owners, you may not have given much thought to how it works or what’s in the bottle.

“Fly repellents work by either repelling flies or killing them upon contact,” says Erika T. Machtinger, Ph.D., assistant professor of entomology at Pennsylvania State University in State College, Penn. “Repellents contain active ingredients that emit an odor or taste that flies find unpleasant and will try to avoid. Some fly repellents work by combining both repelling and killing properties. These repellents contain a combination of active ingredients that repel flies and contain insecticides that kill them upon contact.”

Active Ingredients

Most companies will list features and benefits on the front of the label, says Casey White, an entomologist and senior director of technical services and innovation for Central Life Sciences, Farnam’s research and development division.

“If it’s something that kills and repels, it’ll say ‘kills and repels’ or ‘insecticide and repellent.’ Often, it’ll call out major species of insects or arthropods, such as ticks, that the product is effective against.”

The small print is where you should pay attention to the listed ingredients, including the number and type of active ingredients and their percent concentration. The active ingredients are what give the product its killing and repelling power.

Active ingredients can be either natural or synthetic. Pyrethrins are a natural insecticide derived from the chrysanthemum flower. These offer knockdown benefits but break down quickly when exposed to sunlight. Pyrethroids are synthetic versions designed to have longer-lasting action; these include permethrin, cypermethrin, tetramethrin, and others.

Essential oils such as citronella, geraniol, eucalyptus, thyme, cedar oil, lemongrass, rosemary oil, and clove oil are natural options to repel insects. Fatty acids are another type of natural repellent, including octonoic, nonanoic, and decanoic acid.

Other ingredients include synergists, which work to amplify the active ingredients to provide greater killing power and/or longer-lasting protection. One of the most common is piperonyl butoxide (PBO). Others include butoxypolypropylene glycol and n-octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide (MGK 264).

Comparing Products

Looking at the list of active ingredients and their percentages is one way to compare products and select the one that you think will work best for your needs.

“Formulas that use newer technology and a higher level of active ingredients cost more to make,” says Amy Cairy, vice president of marketing for W.F. Young, makers of Absorbine. For these reasons, you can expect many of the best-selling fly sprays to come with a higher price tag, she notes.

Along with comparing the levels of active ingredients, it’s also important to look at the recommended application rate, says White. A product may look like it’s half the concentration of a comparative product, but if you have to apply twice as much of it, he points out that you’re essentially applying the same amount of active ingredient—just in a more dilute form.

Fly Spray Formulation

In addition to the active ingredients, a product’s formulation is another difference to consider. Most fly sprays can be categorized as oil- or water-based, and there are pros and cons to each type.

Oil-based sprays have staying power, but can attract dirt and dust and may be irritating to horses with sensitive skin. If you see “contains petroleum distillate” on the list of ingredients, that’s the tipoff that it’s an oil-based spray.

Water-based sprays are non-irritating and less of a magnet for dust, but will likely need to be reapplied more frequently.

Many horse owners prefer all-natural formulas using essential oils and plant extracts as an alternative to chemical sprays.

Long-lasting sweat and water-resistant formulas contain ingredients that help the product stick to the hair shaft. These are designed to hold up well to rain and sweat under normal turnout and working conditions, says Cairy.

However, she notes that if you rinse your horse with a hose, sponge him off, or bathe him with shampoo, you are removing the product from the horse’s hair and should reapply the fly spray afterward.

Coat conditioners and sunscreen are other bonus ingredients you might find in a fly spray.

Choosing the Right Fly Spray

The right fly spray can depend on several factors.

“First, consider the type of flies that are prevalent in your area and choose a spray that targets those specific types of flies,” says Machtinger. “Next, consider your horse’s individual needs, such as any skin sensitivities or allergies. It’s also important to consider the spray’s effectiveness and how long it will last, and finally the ease of application and whether it requires dilution or not.”

The local climate and weather conditions, such as heat and humidity, as well as what you are doing with your horse also influence your choice of fly spray. You may want to have a few different kinds in your kit with different features and formulations. The fly spray you use right before you go in the show ring might be different than the one you’d use to turn your horse out in the field.

“For example, if you have a horse that is easily bothered by a wide variety of flies or is reactive to insect bites, you’ll want to find a long-lasting, broad-spectrum fly spray that both kills and repels insects,” says Cairy. “Or if you live where it’s hot and humid or have a horse that is prone to heavy sweating, you’ll want to reach for a fly spray that binds to the horse’s hair shaft and won’t sweat off.”

Not Enough

One of the biggest fly spray mistakes is simply user error. Either not applying enough, not using the product according to the directions, or selecting the wrong type of product for the insect species you are dealing with.

How do you know if you’re applying the recommended amount of fly spray? Cairy suggests counting sprays and measuring how many it takes to reach the recommended amount, then using that for future reference. (About 45 sprays is what she has found it takes to reach a typical 2-ounce application.)

Pest Resistance

If you find that your go-to fly spray doesn’t seem to be as effective, there may be a reason for that.

“In addition to the method of application, the effectiveness of these products can depend on the toxicity of the active ingredient to flies, and local pest resistance,” says Machtinger. “Flies can quickly develop a resistance to the active ingredients in many fly sprays (or already are resistant to them), reducing or in some cases eliminating their effectiveness.”

Pesky house flies are among the most affected by insecticide resistance. Fortunately, Machtinger reports, newer fly spray formulations using natural ingredients such as fatty acids and plant extracts have proven to be effective and longer-lasting in laboratory tests. The 2019 published study she led also suggests that formulation differences among pyrethroid products can significantly affect their efficacy.

“We do see some resistance to fly sprays, particularly permethrin,” says Cairy. “When horse owners start thinking, ‘My fly spray isn’t working the way it used to,’ we recommend that they rotate to one with a different formulation.”

When rotating products, look for something with an active ingredient that works differently than what you have been using, such as a different chemical class, advises White.

“Many of the on-animal sprays have the same mode of action, which makes incorporating other fly management tools even more important.”

Other Fly Management

There are many other things horse owners can do to help keep fly populations down, including good sanitation and manure management, and taking steps to eliminate fly breeding habitats and disrupt their life cycle.

“Scatterbaits, fly traps, feed-through larvicidal products and larvicides applied directly to fly development areas are other options that should be incorporated into a good integrated pest management (IPM) program,” says White.

It might seem like a fly is just a fly, but it’s important to try to identify what fly species you are dealing with, because they aren’t all created equal when it comes to fly control.

“To prevent flies on horses, it’s important to first understand which species of fly is the pest,” says Machtinger. “Each species will have different methods of control that are effective.”

She emphasizes the need to use a variety of tools in combination, such as good stable management and hygiene, fly masks and sheets, and species-specific fly traps.

Flies are a nuisance, but armed with the right knowledge and tools, it’s possible to fight back.

Further Reading
◆ Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things
◆ Using Parasitoids for Fly Control
◆ Understanding Fly Spray Labels

This article about fly spray appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fly Spray 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

1. Manure Management

Probably the single most important way of fly control is proper disposal of horse manure. Stable flies, the most annoying of all the biting flies that bother horses, breed in manure. Houseflies also prefer manure for reproduction.

The best way to keep these fly numbers down is to frequently remove manure from your horse’s stall or paddock. Barn aisles, turnout areas and riding arenas should also be cleaned. Clean at least once a day; more often if you can.

Once manure is scooped up, it should be taken to a manure pile far away from the barn or stored in a covered dumpster until you can remove it from your property.

Soiled bedding is another favorite spot for flies to lay their eggs. Remove wet shavings or straw from your horse’s stall every day to keep the fly population down.

2. Moisture Control

Flies love moisture and seek out wet areas to breed. Search your property for leaks from faucets, sprinklers and pipes. Look for areas where rain water gathers, too.

If your horse has a favorite spot in his stall or paddock to urinate, you can bet that flies are laying their eggs there. Put down moisture-absorbing materials to help soak up the urine. In box stalls, keep urine to a minimum with frequent cleanings and by using highly absorbent bedding.

3. Biological Controls

An eco-friendly way to combat flies is to use biological methods. Tiny parasitic wasps are widely available, and work by destroying the fly larvae before it can hatch. Signing up for a monthly delivery of these predatory insects during fly season can help keep the fly population down at your barn.

Harmless to humans and so small you can barely see them, the wasps are shipped still in the egg stage. Once a few of the wasps hatch in the plastic bag after delivery, you sprinkle the contents in and around your horse’s living area.

4. Traps

Available in a variety of different types, fly traps work by attracting flies, either through color or scent. Once the fly lands on or enters the trap, it can’t escape and eventually dies.

The simplest type of fly trap uses a sticky surface to capture flies. The flies are drawn to the color—usually orange or yellow—and land on it. The glue-covered surface sticks to their feet, keeping them from flying away. Other traps use bait to lure the fly inside. Some traps have water inside, and the flies drown because they can’t escape. Others simply trap them inside the container, where they die due to lack of food and water.

Sticky fly traps can be hung anywhere flies congregate, but should be safely out of reach of curious horses. Baited traps should be placed far from stalls since they will initially attract more flies to the area before the insects become trapped.

5. Barn Fans

Flies tend to be less active when there’s a strong breeze, as wind affects their ability to fly. So create your own wind! Barn fans hung from the ceiling over each stall and in the barn aisles can do wonders for keeping flies out of the area. Freestanding fans can also be used in barn aisles.

6. Stable Management

The environment surrounding your horses can have a big effect on the number of flies at your facility. Practicing good barn keeping will keep flies to a minimum.

Start by making sure all garbage cans are securely covered. An open trash can will draw flies from near and far. Keep feed storage containers covered as well since some grains and sweet feeds can attract flies. Clean up spilled feed right away, especially if it’s wet.

Be sure to dispose of any rotting hay on the property since this is the perfect breeding environment for flies. The combination of moisture and organic material is a haven for these pests. Also, avoid using straw as bedding since wet straw is a magnet for flies.

7. Fly Sprays

Both insecticidal sprays and repellents discourage flies from landing on your horse.

Oil-based sprays have more staying power on horses than water-based products, and both are best used in conjunction with other types of fly control. They should not be used in the vicinity of parasitoid wasps, however, since the beneficial insects are also susceptible to insecticides.

When applying fly sprays, be sure to use an adequate amount as directed on the label. If you don’t coat the horse’s hair with the spray, flies can still land and bite. For applying around the eyes, ears and muzzle, spray the product onto a washcloth and wipe it onto the horse’s face. You can also use a roll-on insecticide for these delicate areas.

8. Cover-Ups

No matter how good your fly control methods, it’s impossible to get rid of every single fly. To protect your horse from these biting pests, use cover-ups.

Fly masks are the most effective way to protect your horse from flies. Face flies are notorious for feeding on the mucus in your horse’s eyes, causing irritation and potentially spreading disease. You can also use a mask with attached ear covers to keep biting gnats out of his ears.

A fly sheet prevents flies from landing directly on your horse’s body. The lightweight mesh blanket protects your horse’s chest, back, sides and hindquarters from biting flies. Add mesh leg wraps to protect the lower legs, and flies will have a hard time finding a place to bite your horse.

By using these methods, you can make a big impact on the number of flies that live on your property and pester your horses.

9. Spray Systems

In a barn environment, an overhead fly spray system can be effective at keeping fly populations down. Spray systems release a repellent or insecticidal mist periodically throughout the day. The spray comes down onto the horses and prevents flies from landing and biting. The system can be designed to spray directly into both stalls and barn aisles.

After installing a spray system in your barn, choose the type of insecticide or repellent you want to use. If you are concerned about introducing chemical fly products into the environment, opt for natural formulations.

10. Supplements

Supplements designed to prevent flies from breeding in manure or to discourage flies from biting are another option for your horse. Insect growth regulators (IGR) are chemicals that disrupt the fly’s ability to reproduce by affecting the pupa stage in the life cycle. When the active ingredient in the IGR is present in the horse’s manure, the fly larvae can’t develop to adulthood.

A feed-through product containing an IGR is added daily to the horse’s food, and then passes through the horse and is deposited with the manure. The IGR has no effect on the horse, but wreaks havoc on the fly population.

Natural supplement formulas containing garlic, apple cider, yeast and other ingredients with natural fly-repelling properties are reported to discourage flies from biting. These products must be fed daily to be effective.

Further Reading on Fly Control for Horses and Barns

◆ Natural Insect Repellents for Horses
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things

This article about fly control for horses and barns appeared in the July 2015 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post 10 Ways to Banish Flies from the Barn appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Flies love to land on horses’ lower legs, and even the most diligent fly spray regimen can’t always prevent stomping-related cracked and chipped hooves or loose and lost shoes. There is more at stake than gallons of fly spray and dust clouds in the paddock. Are you ready to stop the stomp and help your horse?

That symphony of stomps you hear as you approach your horse’s pasture can be an ominous warning sign of hoof problems to come. If you start to see hoof health deteriorate as summer progresses, you may soon be facing increased farrier bills and even a horse that need time off.

Be a Keen Observer

What’s a horse owner to do? First, make a plan—but make it early in the summer, before the flies take over.

The first step is to understand that the sound of a horse stomping the ground may mean different things, and you must be dedicated to checking your horse several times a day.

Stomping at flies is a normal reaction for horses when flies buzz around and land on lower legs. But a horse will also stomp the ground if he has unearthed a wasp’s nest or biting-ant hill in the ground; he may need your help, especially in a small pen.

Likewise, a horse may be nervously pawing the ground, not stomping. If you hear the sound of stomping when you shouldn’t, don’t assume that your horse is reacting to flies. Always investigate unusual sounds coming from a pen or pasture.

Next, learn what is “normal” for flies in your area and on your farm. Some areas cycle through different types and densities of flies over the course of the summer.

Flies may bother horses more or less at different times of the day, or in different weather conditions. Make notes about what you notice about the flies around your horse and around your barn, in general. If your horse prefers a certain part of a paddock, it may be because there are fewer flies or the ground is softer and pounding isn’t so jarring.

If your horse is sensitive to biting flies, have topical astringents and healing ointments on hand to dab broken skin and welts. Exposed wounds on the lower legs will attract even more flies. Be prepared to call your vet if sudden swelling occurs.

Learn all you can about horse behavior in the pasture. Horses can become habitual stompers, and tales are told of fly-weary horses who kept on stomping even on windy days when no flies bothered their legs.

Fly Stomping Causes Problems for Feet

Fly stomping can wreak havoc on hooves. Shod horses may experience raised clinches, a loosening of the nails’ grip on the hoof wall. The clinches may suddenly feel rough to the touch.

Ragged clinches may cause cuts and scrapes on the hands and thighs of riders and grooms who pick up hooves for cleaning, and rip or catch on an expensive pair of breeches. They’re another good reason to wear long pants around horses in the summer.

Loose shoes are a special danger when horses are shod with clips. Clips prevent shoes from shifting, but a horse can step down on a loose shoe’s clip and damage his hoof wall or sole. A shoe that comes completely off is a danger to all the horses in a pasture, since any of them can step on its exposed nails or protruding clips.

Frayed “potato chip” feet are common in the summer and worsen as fall approaches. Stomping at flies may make brittle hoof walls worse.

Superficial wall cracks are also common in stomping horses, but a crack that penetrates the wall requires the attention of a farrier. It may worsen over the course of the summer if the horse is stomping repeatedly.

Notify your farrier if you see problems developing so they can be treated before resulting in lameness or requiring special shoeing.

Fighting Off Flies

Horses have their pet peeves. One hates wearing leg wraps. Another fears the sound of sprays and won’t stand still for application. Learn each horse’s fly-related idiosyncrasies, inform everyone who cares for the horse, and find workarounds so every horse has as ideal protection from flies as possible to prevent fly stomping.

What’s in your fly spray? Respect anyone around your barn—whether horse or human—who may be sensitive to fly-control chemicals.

Know how much and how often products should be used. Your paddock fly-control practices should suit the severity of your problem, your horse’s turnout schedule, and your environmental priorities.

10-Step Plan to Eliminate Foot Problems Related to Fly Stomping

1. Think ahead. Keep a calendar and mark when the flies start appearing, what times of day they are the worst, and dates when you notice different types and densities of flies and mosquitoes. Also mark days for manure removal. Likewise, make note of weather, and notice paddock areas that have more or fewer stomping horses.

2. Check each foot on your horse before and after turnout. Look for loose or sprung clinches, bent or gaping shoes, and traces of dried blood that indicate stomp-related skin damage. Examine the insides of legs and pasterns.

3. Try using fly boots. If using repellent, too, apply to both the inside and the outside of the leg from the knee or hock down.

4. Don’t turn out horses near manure piles in summer. Remember that flies love manure, so a horse’s feet and lower legs are already often in close range for a fly. Be diligent about picking out your paddocks so you can deprive flies of the manure they seek.

5. Walk your pastures and look for lost shoes. If you find one, note the location and date found and the name of the horse, if known. Check that horse for hoof damage. Your farrier may be able to re-use the found shoe if it’s in good shape.

6. Quickly address shoes that are partially detached. First, call your farrier. You may be instructed to secure the shoe with duct tape or cover the entire foot with Vetrap and keep the horse in a stall until it can be fixed.

7. Learn to remove a loose or bent shoe. If you’re unsure how to do this, purchase a basic set of farrier tools and ask your farrier to teach you. Store the tools in a clean, dry place and don’t use them for anything but horseshoes.

8. Have your horse on a regular trimming or shoeing schedule. Six weeks is normal, but some horses may need shorter intervals, especially in summer. Don’t be tempted to skip or reschedule an appointment in the summer. Overgrown feet and worn shoes that are left on too long put a horse at risk.

9. Not stomping may be a problem, too. Senior horses, laminitics, or ringbone sufferers will especially appreciate diligent lower-leg fly defense. Is there a horse that’s not stomping at the flies, even though he’s in the same paddock with horses who are? It’s possible that the horse is in pain and doesn’t want to slam a sore foot onto the ground.

10. Stomping feet may be only part of the problem. Make sure your horse is up to date on vaccinations for insect-related diseases. A variety of serious infectious horse diseases are carried by horse flies and mosquitoes.

Flies are a fact of life around horses in the summer. They are a nuisance, but they can also cause problems that will gradually compromise a horse’s wellbeing. Horses instinctively stomp their feet when they sense flies.

Your horse will thank you for stopping the stomp before his hooves are damaged.

This article about fly stomping affecting hooves appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Tiny creatures certainly have the ability to make our lives, as well as the lives of our horses, miserable. While we can never completely eliminate pests such as flies and parasites, we can do a lot to keep them at bay—especially when the weather starts getting warmer in the spring and we plan our spring horse care strategies. Let’s look more in-depth into the pests that plague our horses and what we can do to manage or eliminate them.

Pesky Flies

The flies that most horse owners deal with are the big four: stable flies, face flies, bot flies and horse flies. The best way to reduce the number of flies that annoy your horse is to make it hard for them to reproduce. Implementing fly-control methods in the spring will pay off come summer when fly populations are at their highest.

Knowing where these flies start their lives will help you put a stop to their reproductive cycle.

STABLE FLIES: These nasty greyish-black flies have a painful bite that they inflict on horses, most often on the legs. They lay their eggs in rotting vegetation, dirty bedding, manure and areas of urine.

FACE FLIES: These small, dark flies don’t bite, but instead feed on the moisture in the corners of a horse’s eyes, on the moist part of the horse’s nose and on open wounds. They lay their eggs in manure.

BOT FLIES: Unlike most other flies, bot flies do not bite or feed on the outside of the horse. Instead, they lay their eggs on the horse’s legs, shoulders or mouth with the intention of the horse swallowing the eggs.

Once inside the horse, the eggs hatch and the larvae burrow into the horse’s stomach, where they do damage for several months before passing out through the manure and continuing their life cycle.

HORSE FLIES: You can’t miss one of these flies when it lands on your horse. Horse flies are large with a black body and a white head. They prefer to leave their painful bite on the withers or rump and will easily draw blood.

Their breeding place of choice is damp soil near irrigation ditches, lakes and rivers.

Getting Fly-Free

Given the reality of how these pests live their lives, what can you do to minimize the number of flies that harass your horse? Plenty!

Here’s how to reduce pests at the barn.

MANAGE MANURE: It’s obvious that with the exception of the horse fly, the most common flies to bother horses spend their entire lives in the stable environment. Stable flies, face flies and bot flies all need manure to reproduce, with the stable fly also branching out into dirty bedding.

This is why frequent stall cleaning and manure removal is key when it comes to keeping flies to a minimum. Picking up and disposing of manure and soiled bedding every day is a must if you want to make your barn inhospitable to flies.

PHYSICAL PROTECTION: You can keep your property clean, but you don’t have much control over how your neighbors manage their manure. If you’re boarding your horse, you’ll discover that large numbers of horses make it a lot harder to control fly populations.

In both of these situations, you’ll need to provide your horse with physical protection from flies. Start by using a fly mask to keep face flies out of your horse’s eyes. A fly sheet for your horse’s body and fly wraps for his legs will keep insects from being able to reach his skin.

SPRAYS AND TRAPS: Repellent in the form of fly sprays, wipes and mists can also help keep flies off your horse. You can apply fly repellents topically to your horse daily or install an automatic misting system in your barn that will provide a dose of repellent at regular intervals.

Fly traps can also be helpful because they capture flies that are buzzing around, stopping them from annoying your horse and reproducing in your horse’s manure and bedding.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS: A natural way to help control fly populations is with beneficial insects that feed on fly larvae, killing the maggots before they turn into flies. These tiny wasps don’t bother horses, but they will dine on developing flies.

You can buy these fly parasites through mail-order services, placing them outside in your stabling area when they arrive each month. You’ll need to start adding fly parasites to your stable soon in order to head off the fly explosion that starts in the spring.

FEED-THROUGH FLY CONTROL: Equine feed supplements designed to keep fly eggs from hatching in manure can be helpful in keeping fly populations under control. These products work by disrupting the fly’s development cycle in the manure with the use of an insect growth regulator (IGR). The IGR passes through the horse’s system into the manure, where it prevents the fly from developing. Feed-through fly control works best if all horses on the property are given the product on a daily basis.

Spring Horse Care Against Internal Parasites

The other common creepy crawlies that can make life difficult for horses and their owners are worms. A handful of these internal parasites are a real nuisance and are prevalent among domestic equines. These pests enter the horse’s body through the mouth and complete their life cycle in manure. Infected horses can become very sick if worms are allowed to go unchecked.

The most common worms to affect horses are strongyles (large and small), roundworms, pinworms and tapeworms.

LARGE STRONGYLES: Large strongyles are only a half-inch long, but they can wreak havoc on a horse’s intestines. They can cause colic, as well as blood vessel and organ damage.

SMALL STRONGYLES: Small strongyles burrow into the intestines of the horse and cause damage to delicate tissues. They are very common in horses and can result in colic, diarrhea and weight loss.

ROUNDWORMS: These nasty worms can grow up to a foot in length. They live in the horse’s digestive tract and cause colic and poor condition. They are most common in young horses less than a year old. Older horses usually develop an immunity to roundworms.

PINWORMS: Pinworms are about 2 inches long and live in the horse’s rectum, where they may cause irritation and discharge. Horses infected with pinworms often rub their tails against fences and trees.

TAPEWORMS: You can help get rid of the worms in your horse’s body by using a dewormer every few months. These products are available in tack and feed stores, but should be given under the guidance of your veterinarian, because some worms are developing resistance to the most common dewormers. Your vet can help you rotate the different types of wormers to help prevent this.

Fecal egg testing involves having your horse’s manure tested every few months for parasite eggs. This technique is becoming the preferred method by many veterinarians for parasite control.

Because the weather is getting warm, spring is a great time to start your spring horse care strategies against parasites, as well as flies. A number of mail-order laboratories provide this service, which requires you to send a small manure sample for testing. The resulting fecal egg count helps determine if your horse has worms, and which species, so you can effectively treat the infection with an over-the-counter dewormer.

You can do a lot to help prevent worms from taking hold of your horse by maintaining good manure control at your stable. Pick up manure and soiled bedding frequently, and keep water troughs and feeders clean.

Starting good stable hygiene in your spring horse care plan is the best way to keep both flies and parasites under control throughout the year. Your horse will thank you for it.

This article on spring horse care on preventing parasites and flies appeared in the March 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

Further Reading on Spring Horse Care

• New Fly Products for Your Horse
• Understanding Fly Control Labels
• 7 Fly Control Myths
• April 2020 SmartPak SmartTip of the Month: Controlling Flies from all Angles
• Regional Parasite Control for Horses
• Why Dewormer Rotation is Over
• Spring Horse Care Checklist

The post Protecting Your Horse This Spring from Flies and Worms, Oh My! appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Fly spray tends to fall into the category of “things we use regularly, but don’t necessarily understand.” Read on to learn more about fly spray labels.

If you’ve owned a horse for any length of time, you’ve no doubt used your share of fly spray. But do you know how to decipher active ingredients? Are you confident about choosing the most effective product for your horse’s needs? And perhaps most importantly, are you applying it correctly?

Fly repellents may not be rocket science, but a great deal of scientific research goes into developing formulas, dosage and application rates. Read on for a quick lesson in fly sprays that will allow you to make informed choices and more effectively protect your horse.

Fly Spray Labels: Effective Selection

“When you see the number of diseases transmitted by flies and mosquitoes, you want to make sure you provide a level of protection you’re confident in,” says Amy Cairy, marketing manager of the equine division at W.F. Young, Inc., makers of Absorbine products.

Scan the shelves at your favorite equine supply store and you might be overwhelmed by the fly repellent sprays available. How do you know which one will be most effective for your horse? There are a few key things to consider:

• The type of pests you need to repel/kill
• How long the product needs to last
• Your horse’s environment

For example, if your horse is working regularly during warm months, he’ll be sweating, so you’ll want a water-resistant formula designed to work under those conditions. Do you need protection against mosquitoes? Make sure the product is also effective against these pests. Is your horse on pasture where you can’t spray him every day? In those situations, you want a long-lasting product.

Fly Spray Labels: Water- or Oil-Based?

Fly sprays are either made with a water or oil base. Some labels state this clearly, but if you aren’t sure, just look for the words “petroleum distillate” in the active ingredients listing. Those two words clearly tell you that it’s an oil-based product.

“A manufacturer’s decision to use a water-based or oil-based solvent system depends on the active ingredients in the formula, because some ingredients are not soluble in water,” explains Casey White, an entomologist (scientist who focuses on insects) and director of product development at Farnam’s Research and Development facility in Dallas, Texas.

White adds that the residual activity of some ingredients can be enhanced by using either water or oil, so that also plays a role in formulation.

One advantage of oil-based fly sprays is that they quickly stick to the hair coat and provide rapid knockdown of pests. A disadvantage is that oil-based products tend to attract dust and dirt; they may also be irritating to the skin of sensitive horses.

Water-based products tend to be less irritating and dirt won’t stick to them. But they break down easier under environmental conditions (sun, rain, sweat, et cetera), so if the product is water-based, it usually contains synergists, which are chemical agents that help active ingredients last longer and work more effectively.

Commonly used synergists include piperonyl butoxide (PBO), butoxypolypropylene glycol, and N-octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide (MGK 264).

Understanding Ingredients on Fly Spray Lables

By law, every fly spray label must list the product’s active ingredients, which are registered with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

“Any product that contains an EPA-registered active ingredient has to be registered with the EPA,” says White. “Documentation on the formula is filed with the EPA, along with studies that support the claims the product makes and studies that analyze the concentration of active ingredients.”

“The larger type on the label tells you what the product does, but manufacturers can’t just say whatever they want,” says Cairy. “Fly sprays are highly regulated for safety and efficacy by the EPA, and the language used on label claims is equally regulated.”

The section that lists “active” ingredients refers to those ingredients with insecticide (killing) and repellent properties. Active ingredients can be both natural and synthetic.

Pyrethrins are one of the most common active natural ingredients and are derived from a species of chrysanthemum. Pyrethroids are synthetic forms of pyrethrins. The most common pyrethroids are permethrin, cypermethrin, tetramethrin and resmethrin.

“Both pyrethrins and pyrethroids have a long track record for effectiveness and animal safety on horses,” says Cairy. Because synthetic active ingredients last longer than natural active ingredients, the most effective fly repellent products often feature a combination of both natural and synthetic active ingredients.

Inactive ingredients make up the greatest percentage of any fly spray, and these don’t have to be listed individually. Depending on the product, this base may also contain coat conditioner and sunscreen.

Going Natural

There are a variety of repellents on the market that use natural ingredients as opposed to chemicals. Those ingredients typically include essential oils such as citronella, geraniol, eucalyptus, thyme, cedar oil, lemongrass, rosemary oil, and others.

Although quite effective for a short period of time, these ingredients break down more quickly than chemicals, so you’ll need to reapply a natural fly spray fairly often, usually after eight hours.

Natural sprays don’t contain insecticides and are intended to repel insect pests, not kill them. They can be a useful choice during seasons when the fly population is not at its peak.

“Don’t expect natural fly sprays to work the same or as long as their chemical counterparts,” advises Cairy. “They tend to repel for a short duration and don’t actually kill pests.”

Keep in mind that just because a product contains natural ingredients, some horses can still be sensitive. Any time you use a fly spray—natural or chemical—that you haven’t used before, you should spray a small test area on your horse’s body first. Wait a few hours and check to make sure there are no adverse reactions before you thoroughly spray his entire body with the label’s recommended amount of product.

Save or Splurge

There’s a very good reason some fly sprays cost two or three times more than others. It all comes down to the level of active ingredients. Both White and Cairy recommend comparing the percentage of active ingredients on product labels in order to make an informed buying decision.

Two fly sprays may contain the exact same active ingredients, but at significantly different levels.

“With fly sprays, the levels of active ingredients are really what you’re paying for,” says Cairy. “If brand A contains 0.10 percent permethrin and brand B contains 0.50 percent permethrin, that means there’s five times more of the active ingredient in brand B. Continue this comparison for each of the active ingredients listed, and also look for the number of active ingredients.”

Follow Label Directions

OK, ‘fess up. When was the last time you actually read the complete label on a bottle of fly spray?

Taking a few minutes to do so is important, and following label directions can make all the difference in how well the product works. White finds that horse owners frequently under-apply fly spray and then complain that it doesn’t work well or last as long as expected.

For example, the label on a product may state that it can last for 14 days. But for this to happen, you must apply it exactly as indicated in the directions.

“There’s a lot of research that goes into dosage and application rate to make sure we get enough applied to meet the label claims,” says White. “Fly spray labels are written precisely and according to the data generated for that product through the development process. It’s important to read and follow label directions carefully both from a safety point and to get the most out of the product.”

Let’s say the manufacturer’s label specifies applying 1 ounce of product. Short of measuring the fly spray each time, how can you determine how much you’re using?

Cairy did a little investigating into this, actually spraying a product into a measuring cup and counting the sprays. It took about 45 sprays of the bottle to measure 1 ounce, which was the amount this particular label stated was needed to give the protection and efficacy claimed by the product.

In addition to using the correct amount, the product must be applied properly in order to work as described. This means not spraying product onto a horse covered in dirt and loose hair.

Take an extra minute or two to brush the horse before spraying. The closer the product is to the hair coat, the better the chance of getting even coverage that stays on the horse. To avoid any chance of getting spray in the eyes, apply product to the horse’s face with a rag, or use a roll-on repellent.

By reading the ingredient listings and directions carefully on the product before you purchase it and during use, you will get the results you paid for and expected. Spray smart and you and your horse can enjoy a (relatively) fly-free summer.

This article about fly spray labels originally appeared in the July 2018 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Understanding Fly Spray Labels appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Horse flies. Stable flies. House flies. Deer flies. Toss mosquitoes, gnats and ticks into the mix, and you have the bane of every horse’s (and horse owner’s) existence as you work to protect your horse from flies. As much as we all look forward to the lovely long days of summer, that warm weather inevitably includes insects of all types and sizes.

The nuisance factor is huge, from the incessant stomping and swishing to trail rides cut short by swarms of bugs, not to mention training sessions interrupted by the buzz of attacking mosquitoes. But the risk of disease is even more important. From pigeon fever to West Nile Virus, these insects can inflict damage far outweighing the irritation they cause.

Many of us turn to the fast and easy solution: fly spray. We douse our horses with our favorite brand, providing at least temporary respite from the bugs. However, there are many other steps we can take to protect our horses and ourselves from both the frustration and danger posed by flies and their fellow flying insects.

Fly Sprays

Fly spray is an obvious solution to the immediate problem. Spray your horse, and the bugs are gone. That’s the idea, at least, to provide fly protection for your horse.

Natural vs. Chemical

The effectiveness of fly sprays depends on many factors. First, there are two basic types: natural and chemical formulations. Natural fly spray formulas use one or more herbal extracts and/or essential oils, such as citronella, lemongrass, eucalyptus and lavender.

Most chemical-based fly sprays contain insecticides, such as pyrethrin or pyrethroids, as the primary active ingredients. The most significant difference is that natural formulas will repel flies and other insects, but not kill them. Fly sprays containing insecticides kill as well as repel insects. The bottom line is that if your horse simply can’t tolerate bugs, then a natural formula might not be as effective as you need.

Water or Oil-Based

If you opt for a fly spray containing insecticides, the next decision is water- or oil-based. There are pros and cons to each.

Oil-based sprays are more impervious to sweat and rain, and have the added advantage of giving some shine to the coat. However, that oil also attracts and holds dust and dirt, and some horses are more sensitive to oil-based products.

Water-based sprays can be less likely to cause skin irritation and don’t attract dust. Many manufacturers add ingredients such as aloe and lanolin to help water-based products be less susceptible to sweat and rain, resulting in longer-lasting effectiveness.

Cost

There’s a reason some fly sprays cost more than others, with higher prices typically reflecting higher percentages of active ingredients, as well as additional ingredients that bolster the spray’s performance.

Higher percentages of active ingredients translate to stronger, longer-lasting effectiveness. So while that inexpensive bottle seems like a bargain, in reality, it might not be providing the protection you want.

Following Directions

Be sure to read the instructions, as many manufacturers recommend you brush the hair up and spray against the hair. Following these directions can help increase the effectiveness or longevity of the spray.

Make sure your horse is clean and dry before spraying. Use enough product to dampen, but there’s no need to soak the horse. Plus, over-application can lead to skin irritation. Be sure to get the chest, underside and legs, but never spray around the ears, eyes and muzzle. Instead, use a towel to apply spray to sensitive areas.

Ointment

Fly ointments are another option for on-horse protection. Typically, these are applied to sensitive or hard-to-reach areas.

Gnats in particular often choose a place to “chew” on a horse, such as inside the ears, on the chest, or along the horse’s underline. Slathering ointment on these areas provides an extra layer of protection from the nasty little creatures.

Let’s Get Physical

Fly masks and fly sheets provide a physical barrier to keep insects off your horse. Make sure the mask fits properly. If it’s too large, the insects can still sneak in, and if it’s too small, it can cause rubs and irritation.

The same goes for fly sheets; be sure the sheet fits your horse properly for maximum effectiveness and comfort, and remove the sheet regularly to check for rubs and areas where bugs might have crept in. You can find fly sheets with or without a neck cover, and some come with built-in insect repellent as an added deterrent.

Offense vs. Defense

While fly sprays, masks and sheets provide protection from existing insects, your best defense includes a strong offense in the battle against flies.

This starts with good old-fashioned stable maintenance. Flies love manure, wet bedding and dropped bits of grain under a feed tub, so keeping stalls and paddocks as clean and manure-free as possible is a big help. The same goes for your grain room and tack room, including the half-eaten bagel you forgot to finish!

Mosquitoes, on the other hand, need water to breed, so cleaning your buckets and water tanks regularly is a must, along with eliminating as many sources of standing water as possible. Think of little things, like leaking hoses or water spigots, or an outside wash rack that always has a puddle nearby.

Beneficial Bugs

Unleashing beneficial bugs known as parasitoid wasps on your manure pile can help reduce your fly population by killing the fly pupae before they hatch. (Fly Predators and Fly Eliminators are two popular brand names.)

These tiny, non-stinging wasps offer an environmentally friendly form of fly control. The females lay eggs inside the fly pupae, the eggs consume the pupae, and voilà, no flies hatching. For best results, you should start releasing the parasitoid wasps early in the season, before flies become a problem.

Because of the nature of the fly life cycle and egg production, you’ll need to release new batches periodically. Be sure to use the recommended amount; if you use too few, they won’t be effective.

Keep in mind that parasitoid wasps don’t control adult flies. If you have close neighbors that aren’t taking any fly control actions, those neighboring flies can end up on your property despite your best efforts.

A Fly-Free Barn

Fly traps are another weapon in the fly war arsenal. There are two primary trap designs: sticky traps and bait traps.

Some traps are designed to lure house flies using visual and odor attractants, while others are made to appeal to stable flies.

With bait traps, you’ll want to place them some distance from your barn and house to draw the flies away. Once drawn to the trap, the flies are physically captured; they can get in, but they can’t get out.

Hang fly strips and sticky traps up high. This may not be the most attractive solution, but it’s still effective, especially in feed rooms and tack rooms.

Using a premise spray in and around your barn is another effective means of fly control. Some on-horse fly sprays can also be used as premise sprays; check the label of your favorite brand to see.

For maximum effectiveness of fly protection for your horse, use the spray around doors and windows to help prevent insects from entering the barn, as well as on stall walls. Be careful not to spray water and feed buckets or any hay in the stall.

There are also companies that sell and install fly systems in barns; these are usually placed on the ceiling and set up to release a pre-mixed formula at specific times.

Let’s not forget another simple yet effective method of fly control for stabled horses: fans. There are a number of agricultural fans specifically designed for stalls and barns, and these are a safer, worthwhile upgrade from the standard box fans many of us have used in the past.

You can find stall fans that mount with a bracket, allowing you to move the fan and direct the airflow. Larger fans can either be installed in the ceiling or placed at the end of barn aisles. The idea is to move the air enough so the flies and mosquitoes can’t maneuver. It’s the same reason we welcome a breezy day in the summer: a strong breeze helps keeps the flying insects grounded.

Properly prepared, you can win the fly fight, or at least hold your own and keep you and your horses comfortable. Employing as many of these tips and methods as possible should lead to a happier, more comfortable season for you and your horses.

What About Ticks?

Although they don’t fly, ticks have become of almost equal concern as flies and mosquitoes over the last several years, as tick-borne illnesses have increased dramatically.

Many of today’s fly sprays also kill or repel ticks; check the label if ticks are a concern in your area. Ticks are also active much later in the fall and earlier in the spring than most flying insects, so even though there’s no buzzing in the air, ticks are still lurking underfoot.

Keeping brush and low-hanging branches trimmed around your paddock or pasture can help to a degree, but consider using an on-horse spray that is effective against ticks in the late fall and early spring.

This article originally appeared in the July 2017 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Be Fly Free appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

We all know how annoying it is to have a horse flipping his head around to get rid of the flies that swarm around his eyes and ears. In this fact-filled article, Young Rider will give you hints on how to help keep flies away from the delicate parts of your horse’s face.

There are many forms of fly repellent that you can use, such as sprays, lotions and bands.

One of the longest-acting forms are spot-on repellents. These are liquids that you apply to your horse’s body in certain areas and they help to keep bugs away for up to two weeks. Make sure you read the instructions on the packaging to make sure you are applying the repellent properly.

Never spray fly spray directly on a horse’s face. Dampen a soft towel with fly spray and wipe it under his eyes and on his ears, being careful not to get it in his eyes. You can also put a roll-on fly repellent on his face. Roll it under his eyes only so that when he sweats it will not drip into his eyes accidentally.

You can also go to the store and get a bingo blotter to use as a home-made fly spray roller. You can buy pre-moistened towelettes that provide easy-to-apply fly repellent in a ready-to-use form.

By using these methods you can be sure that your horse is getting the proper amount of fly repellent at a time. You’ll want to massage a fly cream into his ears if you are riding without a fly bonnet. This will help keep flies from biting the sensitive tissue in his ears.

A fly bonnet totally covers a horse’s ears and has fringe on the end to keep flies away from his eyes.

You could also use specially- treated bands or collars that fasten around your horse’s neck, just behind his ears. These bands have been treated with fly repellent and help to keep flies off of your horse’s ears and face. The manufacturers claim that these bands keep flies away for up to two months.

Always apply fly repellent to your horse before riding or turning him out in buggy weather.

When turning out your horse, use a properly-fitted fly mask to keep flies away from his face while he grazes.

You can buy masks that include ear and nosepieces as well as eye protection to cover as much of his face as possible. Be sure to wash the mask when it gets caked with dirt so your horse can see out of it.

Always put a fly mask on under a halter if you use one for turnout (leather, please) so that pesky flies can’t get under the mask and annoy him.

If you’re using a mask that covers only a portion of his face, be sure to protect the rest of his face, ears and nose with fly repellent.

Even if you’re not going to ride, be sure to take off your horse’s mask every day to make sure that nothing has gotten underneath it and irritated his eyes.

There are fly masks you can buy that you can ride in. They are slightly thinner than regular fly masks so your horse can see through them more easily.

Stick to quiet trail rides while your horse is wearing one of these masks. Horses don’t have the best eyesight in the world, so it’s probably not a great idea to gallop around or jump while your horse is wearing a mask.

If your horse doesn’t like to have things covering his ears, you could turn him out with a fly fringe. A fringe is a browband with thin ropes hanging off it, that fastens tothe headstall of his halter and keeps flies out of his eyes.

You can make a homemade fly fringe using the browband of a bridle. Simply thread the ends of the browband through the halter’s crownpiece and tie foot-long sections of baling twine to the band. This will allow about ten inches of twine to hang down, preventing flies from landing on his face and in his eyes. Do not ride with this fringe on, as it might poke him in the eye if he’s moving quickly.

Did you know that there are fly masks for humans? They fasten to your helmet and cover your face and neck. Look for them where helmets are sold.

This article first appeared in the May/June 2005 issue of Young Rider. Subscribe today!

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