For successful saddle fitting, it is as important to address the dynamic stability of the rider as it is the horse. A horse should be able to perform at his best without discomfort. The same is true for a rider.

Some elements make it more challenging when evaluating a rider’s fit in the saddle in any English discipline, whether it is dressage, jumping, trail riding, or another activity. The following are just a few tricky issues that saddle fitters run across:

◆ There is often a mismatch between a rider’s perception and reality because human cognitive sensory information relies on patterns. As an example, if a rider regularly sits to the right side of the horse whenever mounted, the brain believes this position is correct and straight. In brief, the rider’s perception of her position and actions in the saddle is frequently inaccurate! As a result of this perception, when asked what kind of saddle fit a rider “likes,” the rider will usually “like what she knows,” versus “knowing what she likes.” We humans like familiarity, even when it is damaging.

◆ A rider may believe her horse’s lameness or movement issue is due to a problem with the horse, even though the horse doesn’t appear lame until the rider mounts up. Rider-influenced causes tend to go unnoticed, and instead we focus on the horse when we should be addressing the rider’s issues, or a problem with the fit of the equipment used.

◆ Riders, particularly more advanced riders, regularly ride through physical pain. That pain causes distortion of their position and compensatory movement. Rider compensations, often enacted unconsciously, occur to maximize the rider’s own comfort and effectiveness, but they typically affect the movement of the horse in a detrimental way.

◆ There is not much consistency in the education of riders today, particularly in the United States, where a standardized curriculum does not exist. Theories and techniques are mostly up to individual trainers, with little commonality between trainers, and we do not have a precise standardized terminology with which to teach riders.

◆ Amateur riders generally spend most of their time in non-riding activities. Many of those activities undermine the symmetry that is so important to riding. For example, static positions assumed while driving a car or sitting at a computer all day create stiffness and asymmetry in the body, and weakness of the core muscles. It is clear that horses develop a locomotor strategy to compensate for such inconsistency and rigidity in the rider. The outcome of rider asymmetry, such as significantly weighting one stirrup more than the other, pulling on one rein (thus using one seat bone more than the other), or collapsing through one side all causes the saddle to compress more on the weighted side and shift to the weighted side compromising the horse’s spine, and can deform the shape of the panels, as well as cause compensatory movement in the horse.

All the rider considerations just listed come into play when addressing saddle fit. Ground reaction force (GRF) from the horse’s hooves contacting the ground come up through his limbs while the pressure of the rider pushes downward on the horse’s back. The saddle sits in the middle. Consider a right-hand-dominant rider—that rider is likely stronger throughout her right side. In response, her horse may then brace through his ribcage on the right side, causing the saddle to collapse and deform on that side, or push sideways and shift more to the left. Either way, the result is crooked.

The amount of pressure from the rider on the horse’s back increases with speed of locomotion:

◆ Walk: Pressure is equal to the weight of the rider.

◆ Trot: Pressure is two to three times the weight of the rider.

◆ Canter: Pressure is three to four times the weight of the rider.

With these numbers in mind, it is clear that at the walk, a crooked rider has less negative impact on a horse’s back than at the trot and canter. Forces from the rider are increased in those faster gaits, as well as when jumping. The more suspension the horse has—the more bounce in the gaits—the greater the pressure from the rider. And it is also increased when the rider is stiff, unbalanced, or uncoordinated.

As equine athleticism increases through selective breeding, effective and balanced riding is much more challenging. It follows that there must be a change in the style of modern saddles to address the needs of the rider. As little as 30 to 40 years ago, jumping, dressage, and English-style trail saddles were essentially flat in the seat with very little, if any, knee roll. Now, saddles tend to have a deeper seat, larger knee rolls, sticky leather, and everything but a seat belt to keep riders more secure. This is particularly influenced by the number of amateur riders entering the market with a healthy budget for saddles with attributes that will help them achieve their goals on expensive, athletic horses.

When the seat of the saddle becomes deeper, with defined spots for the seat bones and knee rolls that control rider leg position, it is very easy to damage the rider if the saddle is not fit correctly—to both her and her horse. Anatomical features of each rider have to be recognized and understood when choosing a new saddle, or when achieving and maintaining balance in an existing saddle.

This excerpt from The Illustrated Guide to Saddle Fitting by Beverly Harrison is reprinted with permission from Trafalgar Square Books.

The post Is Your Saddle Making You Ride Badly? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When I was a kid, I loved trail riding and had a weekly English lesson. My mom handled most of the logistics—she bought my horse and saddle, took care of his farrier appointments, feeding, and even mucking stalls. I’d just show up for my lessons, load him up for trail rides, and hop in the truck. I never really thought about the “details” of horseback riding.

Now that I’m an adult and have the chance to write articles like this, I’m learning so much. First off, I learned that my mom spoiled me rotten! I also learned that I never took the time to dive into all the parts of a saddle. Sure, I knew the horn was for hanging on when things got a little wild, and the stirrups were where my feet went, but that was about it. The amazing thing about horses is that there’s always something new to learn.

At our local 4-H fair this year, the judge had the riders dismount and asked them trivia questions, including some about saddles. Only one of the 4-H kids could answer her questions. So, if you’re nearby and might encounter this judge in the future, keep reading—you’ll be all set for her.

I’m going to walk you through what I’ve learned about each part of the western saddle.

Saddle Horn

A saddle horn is a prominent feature on a western saddle, and it’s not just there for you to hang on to when your horse gets a little too spirited. There are various shapes and sizes of horns, each designed for specific uses. For instance, trail riding and reining saddles typically have large, round horns, while cutting and barrel racing saddles feature thinner, taller horns. Roping saddles have thick, wrapped horns that help maintain control over heavy livestock. On the other hand, English-style saddles, like dressage and hunt seat saddles, don’t have a horn at all. This is because English riding involves fewer sharp turns, so riders don’t need that extra grip for balance. Each style serves its purpose, reflecting the unique demands of the riding discipline.

Think About It: It’s always best to use a mounting block to reduce strain on a horse’s back. However, if you need to mount from the ground, make sure to position yourself alongside the horse, facing the saddle. Use your horse’s mane for support and avoid pulling on the saddle horn. This approach helps keep your saddle from slipping and ensures a smoother mounting process for both you and your horse.

Pommel/Swell/Fork

The pommel is the front part of the saddle, and its shape and size can vary depending on the saddle’s intended use. In a western saddle, the pommel helps prevent the rider from sliding forward. In contrast, English saddles typically feature a lower pommel, which offers a different riding experience suited to their style.

Gullet

The gullet is the space beneath the pommel, positioned just above the horse’s withers. The design of the pommel and the angle of the bars on the saddle tree determine the gullet’s height and shape. When shopping for a saddle, it’s crucial to use a gullet gauge to measure your horse and find the right size.

Think About It: Wearing a backpack with straps that are too tight or too loose while loaded with books would be uncomfortable. An ill-fitting saddle can lead to similar issues, potentially causing behavior problems in your horse. Always ensure your saddle fits properly. There are many helpful videos online that can guide you on measuring your horse and saddle, but the best approach is to consult a saddle fitter for expert advice.

Also Read: Western Saddle Fit Made Simple

Seat Rise

The seat rise is the raised portion of the seat located directly behind the pommel. This incline helps riders maintain proper position in the saddle, providing additional support and stability while riding. A well-designed seat rise can enhance comfort and aid in effective communication with your horse.

The Seat

The seat is the lowest part of the saddle where the rider sits. It’s a crucial component for comfort and balance while riding. If you ever find yourself in a saddle trivia situation, this is one question you’ll definitely want to get right!

Saddle Fitting Tip: When searching for a new saddle, it’s just as important to ensure it fits you well. Use an online saddle fitting calculator or consult with a saddle fitter to determine the appropriate length for your saddle. Once you have an idea, be sure to try out different options to find the one that feels most comfortable for you.

Cantle

The cantle is the back part of the saddle, and its height can vary based on the saddle’s intended use. For example, ranch and cutting saddles often feature a higher cantle to provide back support, helping to keep the rider securely in place during fast movements. In contrast, trail and show saddles typically have a lower cantle, allowing for more freedom of movement.

Skirt

The skirt is the material at the back of the saddle, behind the seat. It provides stability and helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight. Western saddles come in various skirt shapes and lengths, so it’s important to ensure the skirt fits your horse properly. Additionally, always use a saddle pad that complements the skirt for optimal comfort.

Front Cinch

The front cinch is the thicker strap that keeps the saddle securely in place. In English saddles, this is called a girth.

Saddle Fitting Tip: It’s essential to have the correct size cinch for your horse, as there are sensitive nerves along the belly and sides. You want to avoid any direct pressure from knots or buckles along these areas. Also, if you ride both western and English, keep in mind that the cinch and girth will be different lengths since they buckle at different places.

Front & Rear Rigging/D-Ring

These metal pieces are where your latigo and billet connect to the saddle, providing stability and support for the cinch.

Latigo

The latigo is the leather or nylon strap that connects the cinch to the saddle. You can tie it in a knot for security, or if it has holes, use it with the cinch’s buckle.

Strap Holder/Billet Keeper

After securing your latigo with a buckle or knot, pull the excess strap through the strap holder or billet keeper to keep it off the ground.

Back Cinch/Billet Strap

Some riders use a back cinch, while others don’t. It helps prevent the saddle from bouncing which protects the horse’s lower back. If you use a back cinch, there should be about an inch of space between it and the horse’s belly. You can also connect a cinch hobble between the front and back cinch to keep it secure and prevent it from sliding into the horse’s flank.

Fender

The fender is what you adjust to “change the length of your stirrups.” It connects the stirrup to the saddle and is wide enough to keep your legs from touching the horse’s sides.

Pro Tip: If you’re using a leather saddle, it’s a good idea to keep the leather conditioned to maintain the flexibility of the fenders. This can help improve your comfort while riding. Additionally, there are videos online that demonstrate alternative methods for twisting the leather straps in the back, which can help keep the fender turned outward and reduce pressure on your legs.

Stirrup

The stirrup is where you rest your feet, helping you mount your horse and providing stability while riding.

Saddle Fitting Tip: When it comes to stirrups, there are various sizes and shapes designed to complement different riding disciplines. It’s important to choose stirrups that properly fit your feet to ensure safety, comfort, and stability while riding. A good fit will enhance your overall riding experience and help you maintain better control.

Hobble Strap/Stirrup Strap

This strap, made of leather or nylon, wraps around the fender at the bottom to keep your stirrup in place.

Tie-Down Straps/Conchos

These straps at the back of the saddle can be used to tie up saddle bags or simply for decoration. The conchos are the silver pieces that the straps are connected to.

Breast Collar/Breastplate

While not technically part of the saddle, the breastplate fits around your horse’s chest and connects to the saddle. It helps prevent the saddle from sliding backward, especially when going uphill or jumping. This added stability is important for maintaining a secure fit while riding in more strenuous conditions.

Pro Tip: A neck strap helps keep the breast collar off the shoulder and provides an extra place to hang on to if your horse gets a little wild.

Whew, that’s a lot to take in! I’ve always found that using new vocabulary in everyday situations really helps me remember what those words mean. You don’t have to tackle it all at once—start slow. Pick three terms from this article that you didn’t know before, and when you saddle up your horse this week, say them out loud as you go.

If you don’t have a horse to saddle or just want some extra practice, here is a quiz you can try to test your knowledge of western saddle parts. See answers at the bottom of this page.

Parts of a Western Saddle Quiz

1. What is the primary purpose of the saddle horn in a western saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide grip during riding
c) To tie ropes
d) B and C

2. Which type of saddle typically features a lower pommel?

a) Western saddle
b) Dressage saddle
c) Roping saddle
d) Barrel racing saddle

3. What does the gullet refer to in a saddle?

a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
b) The back part of the saddle
c) The part where you rest your feet
d) The leather strap connecting the cinch

4. Why is it important to have the correct size front cinch?

a) To keep your stirrups in place
b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
c) To enhance the saddle’s appearance
d) All of the above

5. What is the role of the seat rise in a saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide back support
c) To maintain proper riding position
d) To hold the stirrups

6. Which part of the saddle helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight?

a) Cantle
b) Skirt
c) Gullet
d) Fender

7. What is the function of the latigo?

a) To connect the saddle to the stirrup
b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
c) To adjust the height of the cantle
d) To keep the saddle pad in place

8. How can a back cinch benefit the rider and horse?

a) It adds extra decoration
b) It provides a place to hang equipment
c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
d) It makes mounting easier

9. What is a common use for tie-down straps on a saddle?

a) To secure the saddle to the horse
b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
c) To connect the stirrups
d) To adjust the seat height

10. What is a breastplate’s primary function?

a) To make the saddle look nice
b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward
c) To provide additional storage
d) To help with dismounting

Answers:

1. d) All of the above
2. b) Dressage saddle
3. a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
4. b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
5. c) To maintain proper riding position
6. b) Skirt
7. b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
8. c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
9. b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
10. b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward

This article about parts of a western saddle is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Complete Guide to Parts of a Western Saddle — Plus a Quiz appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Saddle fit doesn’t have to be stressful. To make sure that a western saddle fits your horse well, keep in mind that you want it to make as much contact as possible around the horse’s back so that it can distribute weight well.

Darrell Nephew’s mission is to help horse owners find saddles that fit well without endless research and worry. He began crafting saddles in the 1980s, and is now executive vice president of Circle Y Saddles. He apprenticed with Tucker Saddles founder Steve Tucker and built over 1,000 saddles before taking the helm at a company dedicated to saddle fit.

Nephew acknowledges that some horses are trickier to fit than others, but he says most horses can easily fit into the common tree-type categories.

“The No. 1 reason people have saddle fit problems is they overthink it,” Nephew says. “It’s easy to worry about your horse and worry that you’re inadvertently doing something to hurt him. But saddle fit doesn’t have to be hard.”

The first step to making sure your horse is comfortable is taking the time to learn about fit. Here, Nephew guides you through the process so that you can ensure your western saddle fits—or find a saddle that does.

Share Your Story with a Saddle Fitter

If you’re looking for a new saddle or want to make sure yours fits well, Nephew suggests starting with your story. Talk to a saddle fitter or local dealer and tell them about your horse.

“Most horses can fit into a ‘normal’ saddle type, and saddle fitters know which horses usually fit the categories,” he says. “It’s a good place to start. Instead of going in and giving lots of measurements, tell them about your horse. I would say that I have a 15-year-old horse that’s starting to lose a little bit of his back. He’s a bit wide. I ride about 10 hours a week. With that info, the fitter can pull a few saddles for you to put on your horse and try.”

When he’s helping horse owners find saddles, Nephew says he first asks if the rider is currently noticing a problem with the fit. If so, he wants to know what you’re noticing.

Let the fitter know if your horse has white spots on his haircoat (a sign of a saddle that applied too much pressure to specific spots over a long time). Sometimes, white spots may be from a poor fitting saddle many years before.

Also report if you have noticed dry spots under your saddle pad when the rest of the back is wet with sweat. That’s a sign that the horse’s back may need some extra padding to fill in where a saddle is bridging (not touching all points along the bars). Sometimes finding the right pad or using a shim pad can help your western saddle fit well. Keep in mind, however, that padding a saddle that’s too narrow will just add pressure to your horse and make him feel worse.

Next, Nephew asks what tree type you’re using or the horse last had. If your horse fit well in a certain width of tree in the past, that’s a good starting point.

Then he asks, “Is your horse pretty normal?” While “normal” is a subjective term on its own, Nephew uses it here to refer to typical conformation. If the horse is fairly symmetrical, has an average wither, and has a fairly level back, he will most likely fit in a saddle made to fit the majority of horses.

There are always exceptions, of course, and some horses may require some padding or aid to fit well in a “normal” saddle, but a custom tree is rarely needed.

“Normal” Trees

The saddle’s tree is the strong material, usually wood, that holds the saddle together. On the horse, the tree’s bars make contact with the horse’s back. They’re angled to comfortably sit along the horse’s topline so they can distribute your weight evenly onto your horse’s back. The fit of the saddle, for the horse, comes down to the tree and the bars.

For most western saddles, trees fall into two common types: semi-quarter horse bars or quarter horse bars. Semi-quarter horse bars, also known as “regular,” describe trees designed for horses with a defined wither and a refined build.

Quarter Horse bars, also known as “wide,” usually fit stocky horses with round or flat backs. You may also see gaited and draft horse-specific fits. Keep in mind that the horse’s height doesn’t impact the needed tree type—it’s all about fitting the shape that runs the 9 inches behind the horse’s withers.

These categories are helpful as a starting place as you choose which tree types will fit your horse. However, there is no industry standard for how different companies name the bar angles. For each saddle you look at, you’ll need to make sure it fits on your horse.

Nephew says that all the saddle companies strive to make a saddle that helps horses.

“They’re all trying to fit a ‘normal’ horse,” he says. “But every company has a different idea of what normal is. I equate it to shopping for a man’s shirt. Lots of different shirt companies want to fit a man with a certain build. If I’m shopping for a medium shirt, some brands of shirts might be tighter or looser, but overall they fit a medium build. Saddles are the same way. The tree types are trying to fit the most common horses.”

Gullet Guide

Nephew says many horse owners worry about the gullet more than necessary. The gullet is the opening between the bars of the saddle, but it doesn’t determine the bar angles or width of the tree.

“If you’re trying to measure the gullet on a finished saddle, it’s very difficult,” Nephew says. “You just want to make sure the withers have clearance, even when there’s weight in the saddle. Whether there’s 6 inches of clearance or 2 inches of clearance doesn’t matter for most riders. It’s more important to put the saddle on the horse and see how the bars make contact.”

Saddle Fit Concerns

Nephew says it’s never bad to get your horse measured by a saddle fitter. However, he likes to place saddles on the horse to check the fit instead of purely relying on measurements.

If you have noticed a change in your horse’s back because of his age, exercise levels or diet, it may be good to have him measured. Horses’ backs can change when their fitness changes. You’ll also want to know if your horse is short-coupled (has a short back) and may need a saddle that is also short so that it doesn’t sit far onto his hips.

It’s a good idea to look at your saddle and feel where the bars are contacting your horse’s sides at the start and middle of your riding season so you can see if any changes occur.

Try It Out

Start by trying the saddle on your horse without a pad. Nephew advises learning what to see. A level saddle that doesn’t make contact at the withers is a good place to start as you train your eye.

“Saddle fitting is really just being visual and using your touch,” Nephew says. “The first thing I’m looking for is to make sure the saddle makes good contact where the bar is. I’ll take my hand and feel under the saddle close to the horse’s wither. I’m looking there to see if I make some contact from top to bottom of the bar. If you have to guess, then it’s probably making contact. It’s really obvious when it’s not—you can put your hand under the saddle too easily.”

Nephew says after he feels the saddle’s bars, he steps back and looks at the length of the saddle compared to the horse’s back. He wants to make sure that the saddle is level and that it doesn’t look like it’s making contact only at the front and back.

If the saddle is too narrow for the horse, it will sit high on the horse’s back with a “perched” look. Nephew says you can see this easily by looking at the front of the saddle. If you can see 4 to 5 inches of fleece under the gullet, that’s too much, and the saddle isn’t sitting down far enough. This will make the horse feel pinched and will cause the bars to dig into the horse’s back.

If the saddle is too wide for the horse, the gullet may be too close to the withers and the bars won’t touch the horse’s sides. This can also cause the saddle to pinch because specific points touch the horse, but the bars don’t even touch the horse’s back.

Nephew advises trying out a few different saddles after you tell a fitter or dealer about your horse.

“The fitter can give you a good place to start, and you can see what looks and feels best on your horse. Make sure you can try a saddle for a few days so that you can ride and see what happens with the saddle in motion. The burden of finding the best fit is always with the horse owner—you’re the one who knows your horse best and knows how he feels to ride.”

Further Reading:
◆ Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting
◆ Get the Right Western Saddle Fit
◆ 5 Tips for Western Saddle Fit

This article about western saddle fit appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Western Saddle Fit Made Simple appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

German state-certified Master Saddler Jochen Schleese of Schleese Saddlery has devoted his life to designing saddles that protect horses and riders from long-term damage.

“Horses do not consciously behave poorly,” Schleese says. “The horse can react very fast to a very small amount of pressure when it’s in the wrong spot.”

Thankfully, advances in technology have greatly benefitted the saddle-fitting industry. Cameras, infrared heat mapping and equine treadmills equip saddle fitters to understand horses’ saddle fit needs better than ever.

Signs of Damage

Recognizing the signs of an ill-fitting saddle is the first step toward making a change. According to Schleese, the pressure it takes to crush a grape between your fingers is enough to irritate a horse.

Ill-fitting saddles can pinch nerves, cause muscle atrophy, and make horses numb as they work. Think of pinching your skin with your fingernails: after a while, the pain and irritation is dulled, but the injury is there.

An ill-fitting saddle can first cause wither blisters, which are raised bumps on or near the withers during riding. Dry spots (within the saddle sweat stain) on the back and withers after exercise, as well as white hair growth, indicate something is wrong. Both of these signs occur when intense pressure is applied to the skin. They are precursors to cartilage degradation in the shoulders, withers and back—an unfixable problem.

Aside from the comfort and happiness of the horse, a well-fitting saddle reduces stress.

“When a horse is experiencing [pain], the heart rate goes up, releasing [the stress hormone] cortisol in the blood,” says Schleese. “[Cortisol] means high risk of colic and ulcers.”

While there are several factors that go into fitting a saddle to a horse, Schleese says that understanding three main points of fitting will set horse owners on the right path.

1. Withers and Gullet Width

Riders learn that a saddle should never touch the top of the withers, but don’t realize the sides of the withers are also incredibly sensitive.

“The top is just bone and cartilage, but the sides have all these nerves,” Schleese says. “In nature, this is where stallions bite each other. If a horse is bitten there, he will stop moving forward. It ignites the nerves.”

Horses with saddles that pinch their withers show reluctance to move forward and they hollow their backs, making it impossible to perform in a safe and athletic manner. More stress is put on the tendons in their legs as they move awkwardly, trying to relieve the pinching sensation the saddle applies to the withers.

Use a pencil to determine if the saddle is wide enough for the horse’s shoulders. Test this with the saddle resting on the horse with no saddle pad. Take a pencil and slide it under the sides of the saddle; the pencil should slide easily and evenly with continuous contact between horse and saddle.

The withers need 4 inches of clearance on top and 2 to 3 inches around the sides to keep from compromising the muscles and nerves in the area. Saddles that are too narrow will pinch this area, while saddles that are too wide will fall downward and “crush” the withers and the shoulders.

Think of wearing a shoe that is too big or small. If the shoe is too small, your toes are cramped. Too big, and your toes slam into the front of the shoe while running because there is nothing holding your foot in the correct position.

2. Weight Distribution and Saddle Length

Balance is one of the most important factors in saddle fitting. Having a saddle that fits well at the withers with even contact down the back is vital. Saddle bars are meant to support your weight and distribute it over your horse’s back muscles, but a horse that is under-muscled or overly fat might experience the bars pressing harder in some places, causing stress.

According to Schleese, an English saddle’s bars begin at the front D-ring and extend all the way down the saddle. On a western saddle, which is designed to have things attach to it for trail rides and ranching needs, the weight-supporting bars begin at the first concho and end where the seat connects to the skirt.

The bars should sit between the end of the mane, where the shoulder blade often ends, and the “ring of light,” which is where the hair glows in a curved line on the back. The ring of light signifies a transition from the horse’s full ribs to his lumbar (lower back) vertebrae, which have flat transverse processes that are not connected to the sternum with a rib, and should not bear weight.

To check a saddle’s length, Schleese marks a horse with chalk where the mane ends and the ring of light begins, puts the saddle on without a pad, and sees where the bars of the saddle end in correlation to the chalk marks. The bars should be within the marks.

3. Bar Angles

As horses age, they change shape. Starting with round barrels, horses become more angled as they work and build muscle. This is because their rib cages are suspended by muscles instead of a skeletal structure. Their posture changes as they grow and learn to use their bodies to support weight and carry themselves well. Their shoulder blades move upwards and back as they build muscles.

When fitting a horse, consider age and level of work. A young horse will likely need flatter bars, while a well-trained older horse will need a saddle with steeper bars.

Saddle Fitting to the Rider

Fitting a saddle can often take a horse-focused turn, but remember that you are an important part of the equation for a more thoughtful saddle-fitting process.

The anatomical differences between a man and woman make for some surprising saddle seat variations. Sitting in a gender-inappropriate saddle is uncomfortable, and if you’re protecting yourself from discomfort, you will experience tension and a jerky rhythm will translate down to the horse and affect his performance.

Men have straighter lower backs, longer tailbones, and lower buttocks. This means they need a flatter saddle seat that will allow them to keep their heels under themselves while riding.

In contrast, women have more lower back curvature, a shorter tailbone, and higher buttocks. The higher buttock muscles mean that in a flat saddle seat, a woman’s pelvis will rotate backwards, giving the appearance of a rounded back. A saddle made for a woman will have more rise in the back of the seat, giving the buttocks a comfortable boost and allowing the spine to remain in its natural position.

Jochen Schleese’s Motivation

Jochen Schleese has been working to build better saddles for both horse and rider since 1982. His passion stems from a personal experience with his Hanoverian gelding, Pirat. A three-day eventer, Schleese and Pirat qualified for the 1984 European Championships. Unfortunately, due to lameness in the left shoulder, Pirat and Schleese dropped out of the competition.

“He started to have a little bit of an irregular step,” says Schleese. “And when you compete for your country, you’re under a microscope. Disqualification happens because [the horse] is not 100 percent sound.”

The team veterinarians tried everything to help Pirat stay comfortable, but he was eventually retired. Looking back, Schleese is certain that the saddle caused Pirat’s pain, and his experience helped him start a new chapter in his saddle-making career.

Through his educational company Saddlefit 4 Life, Schleese teaches hundreds of people every year about saddle fit and certifies equine ergonomists, independent experts who use precise measurements and science to analyze the fit of a saddle to horse and rider. The Schleese team has helped over 200,000 horses worldwide over the years, and they believe that education is key to making the necessary changes in the industry.

Hear more of Schleese’s insight on saddle fitting in this episode of Barn Banter.

Saddle fit is unique, and one size never fits all. With basic knowledge, it’s easier to pick out a saddle that fits your horse and eliminates unnecessary pain.

This article about saddle fitting appeared in the April 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

1. Tree Spread and Angle

When viewed from the front, the spread and slope of the skirts should be an exact match to the shape of your horse. Any narrowing, especially in the area around the withers or behind the shoulders, is a sign of poor fit.

The saddle should retain its shape once you’re mounted and for the duration of the ride.

2. Fork Height and Gullet Width

A well-fitting saddle will never make contact with your horse’s withers or spine. With your saddle set directly on your horse’s back without a pad, make sure you can place two to three vertical fingers between your horse’s withers and the fork.

Next, slide your hand down the gullet to check the clearance as far as you can reach. Visualize the gullet channel from the back of the saddle as well to confirm your horse’s spine is pressure-free from front to back.

3. Levelness

When the saddle is in the correct position, with the front edge of the tree (not the front skirt, which is flexible leather) sitting in the wither pocket behind the shoulder blade, the bottom edge of the skirt should be parallel to the ground.

A saddle that isn’t level will distribute pressure unevenly on your horse’s back, cause him discomfort, and throw off his balance. Riding in a saddle that tilts forward or back will also affect your balance and make your ride far less comfortable.

4. Centered Riding Position

A well-designed seat and correct stirrup placement will help you ride in balance with your horse. The lowest part of the seat should be centered between the fork (pommel) and cantle, so you’re sitting as close as possible to your horse’s center of gravity and where his back is strongest.

The stirrups should naturally hang vertically below your leg, making it as easy as possible to maintain correct shoulder, hip and heel alignment.

5. The Right Size for You

Your western saddle is the right seat size for you if you can place three fingers between your thigh and the swell of the saddle and a vertical hand between your seat and the cantle.

A seat that is too small will limit your ability to use your seat and legs to communicate your horse. Too large a saddle will require extra effort to consistently maintain a centered and balanced position.

DALE RUDIN is a CHA-certified riding instructor and clinician with a mindful and balanced approach to horsemanship and riding. www.un-naturalhorsemanship.com

This article originally appeared in the December 2016 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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