How Fly Spray Works

Although fly spray is a familiar product to horse owners, you may not have given much thought to how it works or what’s in the bottle.

“Fly repellents work by either repelling flies or killing them upon contact,” says Erika T. Machtinger, Ph.D., assistant professor of entomology at Pennsylvania State University in State College, Penn. “Repellents contain active ingredients that emit an odor or taste that flies find unpleasant and will try to avoid. Some fly repellents work by combining both repelling and killing properties. These repellents contain a combination of active ingredients that repel flies and contain insecticides that kill them upon contact.”

Active Ingredients

Most companies will list features and benefits on the front of the label, says Casey White, an entomologist and senior director of technical services and innovation for Central Life Sciences, Farnam’s research and development division.

“If it’s something that kills and repels, it’ll say ‘kills and repels’ or ‘insecticide and repellent.’ Often, it’ll call out major species of insects or arthropods, such as ticks, that the product is effective against.”

The small print is where you should pay attention to the listed ingredients, including the number and type of active ingredients and their percent concentration. The active ingredients are what give the product its killing and repelling power.

Active ingredients can be either natural or synthetic. Pyrethrins are a natural insecticide derived from the chrysanthemum flower. These offer knockdown benefits but break down quickly when exposed to sunlight. Pyrethroids are synthetic versions designed to have longer-lasting action; these include permethrin, cypermethrin, tetramethrin, and others.

Essential oils such as citronella, geraniol, eucalyptus, thyme, cedar oil, lemongrass, rosemary oil, and clove oil are natural options to repel insects. Fatty acids are another type of natural repellent, including octonoic, nonanoic, and decanoic acid.

Other ingredients include synergists, which work to amplify the active ingredients to provide greater killing power and/or longer-lasting protection. One of the most common is piperonyl butoxide (PBO). Others include butoxypolypropylene glycol and n-octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide (MGK 264).

Comparing Products

Looking at the list of active ingredients and their percentages is one way to compare products and select the one that you think will work best for your needs.

“Formulas that use newer technology and a higher level of active ingredients cost more to make,” says Amy Cairy, vice president of marketing for W.F. Young, makers of Absorbine. For these reasons, you can expect many of the best-selling fly sprays to come with a higher price tag, she notes.

Along with comparing the levels of active ingredients, it’s also important to look at the recommended application rate, says White. A product may look like it’s half the concentration of a comparative product, but if you have to apply twice as much of it, he points out that you’re essentially applying the same amount of active ingredient—just in a more dilute form.

Fly Spray Formulation

In addition to the active ingredients, a product’s formulation is another difference to consider. Most fly sprays can be categorized as oil- or water-based, and there are pros and cons to each type.

Oil-based sprays have staying power, but can attract dirt and dust and may be irritating to horses with sensitive skin. If you see “contains petroleum distillate” on the list of ingredients, that’s the tipoff that it’s an oil-based spray.

Water-based sprays are non-irritating and less of a magnet for dust, but will likely need to be reapplied more frequently.

Many horse owners prefer all-natural formulas using essential oils and plant extracts as an alternative to chemical sprays.

Long-lasting sweat and water-resistant formulas contain ingredients that help the product stick to the hair shaft. These are designed to hold up well to rain and sweat under normal turnout and working conditions, says Cairy.

However, she notes that if you rinse your horse with a hose, sponge him off, or bathe him with shampoo, you are removing the product from the horse’s hair and should reapply the fly spray afterward.

Coat conditioners and sunscreen are other bonus ingredients you might find in a fly spray.

Choosing the Right Fly Spray

The right fly spray can depend on several factors.

“First, consider the type of flies that are prevalent in your area and choose a spray that targets those specific types of flies,” says Machtinger. “Next, consider your horse’s individual needs, such as any skin sensitivities or allergies. It’s also important to consider the spray’s effectiveness and how long it will last, and finally the ease of application and whether it requires dilution or not.”

The local climate and weather conditions, such as heat and humidity, as well as what you are doing with your horse also influence your choice of fly spray. You may want to have a few different kinds in your kit with different features and formulations. The fly spray you use right before you go in the show ring might be different than the one you’d use to turn your horse out in the field.

“For example, if you have a horse that is easily bothered by a wide variety of flies or is reactive to insect bites, you’ll want to find a long-lasting, broad-spectrum fly spray that both kills and repels insects,” says Cairy. “Or if you live where it’s hot and humid or have a horse that is prone to heavy sweating, you’ll want to reach for a fly spray that binds to the horse’s hair shaft and won’t sweat off.”

Not Enough

One of the biggest fly spray mistakes is simply user error. Either not applying enough, not using the product according to the directions, or selecting the wrong type of product for the insect species you are dealing with.

How do you know if you’re applying the recommended amount of fly spray? Cairy suggests counting sprays and measuring how many it takes to reach the recommended amount, then using that for future reference. (About 45 sprays is what she has found it takes to reach a typical 2-ounce application.)

Pest Resistance

If you find that your go-to fly spray doesn’t seem to be as effective, there may be a reason for that.

“In addition to the method of application, the effectiveness of these products can depend on the toxicity of the active ingredient to flies, and local pest resistance,” says Machtinger. “Flies can quickly develop a resistance to the active ingredients in many fly sprays (or already are resistant to them), reducing or in some cases eliminating their effectiveness.”

Pesky house flies are among the most affected by insecticide resistance. Fortunately, Machtinger reports, newer fly spray formulations using natural ingredients such as fatty acids and plant extracts have proven to be effective and longer-lasting in laboratory tests. The 2019 published study she led also suggests that formulation differences among pyrethroid products can significantly affect their efficacy.

“We do see some resistance to fly sprays, particularly permethrin,” says Cairy. “When horse owners start thinking, ‘My fly spray isn’t working the way it used to,’ we recommend that they rotate to one with a different formulation.”

When rotating products, look for something with an active ingredient that works differently than what you have been using, such as a different chemical class, advises White.

“Many of the on-animal sprays have the same mode of action, which makes incorporating other fly management tools even more important.”

Other Fly Management

There are many other things horse owners can do to help keep fly populations down, including good sanitation and manure management, and taking steps to eliminate fly breeding habitats and disrupt their life cycle.

“Scatterbaits, fly traps, feed-through larvicidal products and larvicides applied directly to fly development areas are other options that should be incorporated into a good integrated pest management (IPM) program,” says White.

It might seem like a fly is just a fly, but it’s important to try to identify what fly species you are dealing with, because they aren’t all created equal when it comes to fly control.

“To prevent flies on horses, it’s important to first understand which species of fly is the pest,” says Machtinger. “Each species will have different methods of control that are effective.”

She emphasizes the need to use a variety of tools in combination, such as good stable management and hygiene, fly masks and sheets, and species-specific fly traps.

Flies are a nuisance, but armed with the right knowledge and tools, it’s possible to fight back.

Further Reading
◆ Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things
◆ Using Parasitoids for Fly Control
◆ Understanding Fly Spray Labels

This article about fly spray appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fly Spray 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

1. Manure Management

Probably the single most important way of fly control is proper disposal of horse manure. Stable flies, the most annoying of all the biting flies that bother horses, breed in manure. Houseflies also prefer manure for reproduction.

The best way to keep these fly numbers down is to frequently remove manure from your horse’s stall or paddock. Barn aisles, turnout areas and riding arenas should also be cleaned. Clean at least once a day; more often if you can.

Once manure is scooped up, it should be taken to a manure pile far away from the barn or stored in a covered dumpster until you can remove it from your property.

Soiled bedding is another favorite spot for flies to lay their eggs. Remove wet shavings or straw from your horse’s stall every day to keep the fly population down.

2. Moisture Control

Flies love moisture and seek out wet areas to breed. Search your property for leaks from faucets, sprinklers and pipes. Look for areas where rain water gathers, too.

If your horse has a favorite spot in his stall or paddock to urinate, you can bet that flies are laying their eggs there. Put down moisture-absorbing materials to help soak up the urine. In box stalls, keep urine to a minimum with frequent cleanings and by using highly absorbent bedding.

3. Biological Controls

An eco-friendly way to combat flies is to use biological methods. Tiny parasitic wasps are widely available, and work by destroying the fly larvae before it can hatch. Signing up for a monthly delivery of these predatory insects during fly season can help keep the fly population down at your barn.

Harmless to humans and so small you can barely see them, the wasps are shipped still in the egg stage. Once a few of the wasps hatch in the plastic bag after delivery, you sprinkle the contents in and around your horse’s living area.

4. Traps

Available in a variety of different types, fly traps work by attracting flies, either through color or scent. Once the fly lands on or enters the trap, it can’t escape and eventually dies.

The simplest type of fly trap uses a sticky surface to capture flies. The flies are drawn to the color—usually orange or yellow—and land on it. The glue-covered surface sticks to their feet, keeping them from flying away. Other traps use bait to lure the fly inside. Some traps have water inside, and the flies drown because they can’t escape. Others simply trap them inside the container, where they die due to lack of food and water.

Sticky fly traps can be hung anywhere flies congregate, but should be safely out of reach of curious horses. Baited traps should be placed far from stalls since they will initially attract more flies to the area before the insects become trapped.

5. Barn Fans

Flies tend to be less active when there’s a strong breeze, as wind affects their ability to fly. So create your own wind! Barn fans hung from the ceiling over each stall and in the barn aisles can do wonders for keeping flies out of the area. Freestanding fans can also be used in barn aisles.

6. Stable Management

The environment surrounding your horses can have a big effect on the number of flies at your facility. Practicing good barn keeping will keep flies to a minimum.

Start by making sure all garbage cans are securely covered. An open trash can will draw flies from near and far. Keep feed storage containers covered as well since some grains and sweet feeds can attract flies. Clean up spilled feed right away, especially if it’s wet.

Be sure to dispose of any rotting hay on the property since this is the perfect breeding environment for flies. The combination of moisture and organic material is a haven for these pests. Also, avoid using straw as bedding since wet straw is a magnet for flies.

7. Fly Sprays

Both insecticidal sprays and repellents discourage flies from landing on your horse.

Oil-based sprays have more staying power on horses than water-based products, and both are best used in conjunction with other types of fly control. They should not be used in the vicinity of parasitoid wasps, however, since the beneficial insects are also susceptible to insecticides.

When applying fly sprays, be sure to use an adequate amount as directed on the label. If you don’t coat the horse’s hair with the spray, flies can still land and bite. For applying around the eyes, ears and muzzle, spray the product onto a washcloth and wipe it onto the horse’s face. You can also use a roll-on insecticide for these delicate areas.

8. Cover-Ups

No matter how good your fly control methods, it’s impossible to get rid of every single fly. To protect your horse from these biting pests, use cover-ups.

Fly masks are the most effective way to protect your horse from flies. Face flies are notorious for feeding on the mucus in your horse’s eyes, causing irritation and potentially spreading disease. You can also use a mask with attached ear covers to keep biting gnats out of his ears.

A fly sheet prevents flies from landing directly on your horse’s body. The lightweight mesh blanket protects your horse’s chest, back, sides and hindquarters from biting flies. Add mesh leg wraps to protect the lower legs, and flies will have a hard time finding a place to bite your horse.

By using these methods, you can make a big impact on the number of flies that live on your property and pester your horses.

9. Spray Systems

In a barn environment, an overhead fly spray system can be effective at keeping fly populations down. Spray systems release a repellent or insecticidal mist periodically throughout the day. The spray comes down onto the horses and prevents flies from landing and biting. The system can be designed to spray directly into both stalls and barn aisles.

After installing a spray system in your barn, choose the type of insecticide or repellent you want to use. If you are concerned about introducing chemical fly products into the environment, opt for natural formulations.

10. Supplements

Supplements designed to prevent flies from breeding in manure or to discourage flies from biting are another option for your horse. Insect growth regulators (IGR) are chemicals that disrupt the fly’s ability to reproduce by affecting the pupa stage in the life cycle. When the active ingredient in the IGR is present in the horse’s manure, the fly larvae can’t develop to adulthood.

A feed-through product containing an IGR is added daily to the horse’s food, and then passes through the horse and is deposited with the manure. The IGR has no effect on the horse, but wreaks havoc on the fly population.

Natural supplement formulas containing garlic, apple cider, yeast and other ingredients with natural fly-repelling properties are reported to discourage flies from biting. These products must be fed daily to be effective.

Further Reading on Fly Control for Horses and Barns

◆ Natural Insect Repellents for Horses
◆ Flies, Worms and Yucky Things

This article about fly control for horses and barns appeared in the July 2015 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post 10 Ways to Banish Flies from the Barn appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Flies love to land on horses’ lower legs, and even the most diligent fly spray regimen can’t always prevent stomping-related cracked and chipped hooves or loose and lost shoes. There is more at stake than gallons of fly spray and dust clouds in the paddock. Are you ready to stop the stomp and help your horse?

That symphony of stomps you hear as you approach your horse’s pasture can be an ominous warning sign of hoof problems to come. If you start to see hoof health deteriorate as summer progresses, you may soon be facing increased farrier bills and even a horse that need time off.

Be a Keen Observer

What’s a horse owner to do? First, make a plan—but make it early in the summer, before the flies take over.

The first step is to understand that the sound of a horse stomping the ground may mean different things, and you must be dedicated to checking your horse several times a day.

Stomping at flies is a normal reaction for horses when flies buzz around and land on lower legs. But a horse will also stomp the ground if he has unearthed a wasp’s nest or biting-ant hill in the ground; he may need your help, especially in a small pen.

Likewise, a horse may be nervously pawing the ground, not stomping. If you hear the sound of stomping when you shouldn’t, don’t assume that your horse is reacting to flies. Always investigate unusual sounds coming from a pen or pasture.

Next, learn what is “normal” for flies in your area and on your farm. Some areas cycle through different types and densities of flies over the course of the summer.

Flies may bother horses more or less at different times of the day, or in different weather conditions. Make notes about what you notice about the flies around your horse and around your barn, in general. If your horse prefers a certain part of a paddock, it may be because there are fewer flies or the ground is softer and pounding isn’t so jarring.

If your horse is sensitive to biting flies, have topical astringents and healing ointments on hand to dab broken skin and welts. Exposed wounds on the lower legs will attract even more flies. Be prepared to call your vet if sudden swelling occurs.

Learn all you can about horse behavior in the pasture. Horses can become habitual stompers, and tales are told of fly-weary horses who kept on stomping even on windy days when no flies bothered their legs.

Fly Stomping Causes Problems for Feet

Fly stomping can wreak havoc on hooves. Shod horses may experience raised clinches, a loosening of the nails’ grip on the hoof wall. The clinches may suddenly feel rough to the touch.

Ragged clinches may cause cuts and scrapes on the hands and thighs of riders and grooms who pick up hooves for cleaning, and rip or catch on an expensive pair of breeches. They’re another good reason to wear long pants around horses in the summer.

Loose shoes are a special danger when horses are shod with clips. Clips prevent shoes from shifting, but a horse can step down on a loose shoe’s clip and damage his hoof wall or sole. A shoe that comes completely off is a danger to all the horses in a pasture, since any of them can step on its exposed nails or protruding clips.

Frayed “potato chip” feet are common in the summer and worsen as fall approaches. Stomping at flies may make brittle hoof walls worse.

Superficial wall cracks are also common in stomping horses, but a crack that penetrates the wall requires the attention of a farrier. It may worsen over the course of the summer if the horse is stomping repeatedly.

Notify your farrier if you see problems developing so they can be treated before resulting in lameness or requiring special shoeing.

Fighting Off Flies

Horses have their pet peeves. One hates wearing leg wraps. Another fears the sound of sprays and won’t stand still for application. Learn each horse’s fly-related idiosyncrasies, inform everyone who cares for the horse, and find workarounds so every horse has as ideal protection from flies as possible to prevent fly stomping.

What’s in your fly spray? Respect anyone around your barn—whether horse or human—who may be sensitive to fly-control chemicals.

Know how much and how often products should be used. Your paddock fly-control practices should suit the severity of your problem, your horse’s turnout schedule, and your environmental priorities.

10-Step Plan to Eliminate Foot Problems Related to Fly Stomping

1. Think ahead. Keep a calendar and mark when the flies start appearing, what times of day they are the worst, and dates when you notice different types and densities of flies and mosquitoes. Also mark days for manure removal. Likewise, make note of weather, and notice paddock areas that have more or fewer stomping horses.

2. Check each foot on your horse before and after turnout. Look for loose or sprung clinches, bent or gaping shoes, and traces of dried blood that indicate stomp-related skin damage. Examine the insides of legs and pasterns.

3. Try using fly boots. If using repellent, too, apply to both the inside and the outside of the leg from the knee or hock down.

4. Don’t turn out horses near manure piles in summer. Remember that flies love manure, so a horse’s feet and lower legs are already often in close range for a fly. Be diligent about picking out your paddocks so you can deprive flies of the manure they seek.

5. Walk your pastures and look for lost shoes. If you find one, note the location and date found and the name of the horse, if known. Check that horse for hoof damage. Your farrier may be able to re-use the found shoe if it’s in good shape.

6. Quickly address shoes that are partially detached. First, call your farrier. You may be instructed to secure the shoe with duct tape or cover the entire foot with Vetrap and keep the horse in a stall until it can be fixed.

7. Learn to remove a loose or bent shoe. If you’re unsure how to do this, purchase a basic set of farrier tools and ask your farrier to teach you. Store the tools in a clean, dry place and don’t use them for anything but horseshoes.

8. Have your horse on a regular trimming or shoeing schedule. Six weeks is normal, but some horses may need shorter intervals, especially in summer. Don’t be tempted to skip or reschedule an appointment in the summer. Overgrown feet and worn shoes that are left on too long put a horse at risk.

9. Not stomping may be a problem, too. Senior horses, laminitics, or ringbone sufferers will especially appreciate diligent lower-leg fly defense. Is there a horse that’s not stomping at the flies, even though he’s in the same paddock with horses who are? It’s possible that the horse is in pain and doesn’t want to slam a sore foot onto the ground.

10. Stomping feet may be only part of the problem. Make sure your horse is up to date on vaccinations for insect-related diseases. A variety of serious infectious horse diseases are carried by horse flies and mosquitoes.

Flies are a fact of life around horses in the summer. They are a nuisance, but they can also cause problems that will gradually compromise a horse’s wellbeing. Horses instinctively stomp their feet when they sense flies.

Your horse will thank you for stopping the stomp before his hooves are damaged.

This article about fly stomping affecting hooves appeared in the July 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Hoof Problems Caused by Fly Stomping appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

We’ve all been there. It’s a spring day of good weather, perfect for a ride. As you amble to the barn to saddle up, you hear coughing. Turning the corner, you see the coughing culprit is your horse.

In another barn, a rider grabs the grooming kit to brush her horse in preparation for the saddle. As she runs her hand over his neck, she feels, and then sees, numerous bumps, some of which have merged to form large bumps.

What is going on with these horses? Allergies.

A Teeming World of Horse Allergies

Unseen by the naked eye, the world is abundant in proteins and substances that can incite an allergic response. These allergens may be inhaled, ingested, or may affect a horse through topical contact. You’ll be tipped off to signs of trouble when you notice your horse has itching, hives, or breathing problems.

Allergies are common throughout the human and animal world, and horses are no exception. Usually, horses manage in their environment just fine without developing obvious signs that microscopic compounds are affecting them. Horse allergies happen when a horse’s immune system overreacts to a foreign protein, goes on the offense and becomes over-sensitized.

Sometimes it takes months or years of accumulated exposure for a horse to become hypersensitive; sometimes the response is more immediate and acute. Whatever specific protein causes the reaction, it sets up a cascade of inflammatory events that release prostaglandins and histamines to create obvious skin or respiratory allergic signs.

Skin Allergies in Horses

Horse allergies that manifest in the skin may result from topical contact, but also may develop from oral ingestion or inhaled particles. Aerosolized dust, mold, pollen, bedding, and insect bites are just a few of the sources that can cause itching and/or hives.

A major cause of itching starts with the bite of insects called Culicoides, also known as midges or no-see-ums. While the midges tend to feed on the abdomen, a horse displays an allergic response to the midge saliva by aggressively rubbing his tail, hindquarters, neck and mane due to intense itching. Those areas become raw, crusty, and inflamed, with substantial hair loss.

Some breeds and lines of horses tend to be particularly allergic to midges, such as Morgans, Icelandics and Arabians. The solution relies on moving the horse away from areas favorable to midge breeding, like ponds, wetlands and slow-moving streams.

Fly sheets are important, but they should have belly bands of netting material. Bringing a horse inside at dusk and dawn also helps to reduce midge exposure, as that is their preferred feeding time.

In contrast to an itching reaction (pruritus), hives aren’t typically itchy but herald a definite sign of exposure to some kind of allergen. Hives tend to be soft swellings that indent when you push in with your finger, called pitting edema.

They may be variable in size, sometimes coalescing into one big welt when several are close together. Inhaled allergens also can cause hives, referred to as atopic dermatitis.
Contact dermatitis is also not unusual. One example that occurs fairly commonly is hives from contact with pine bedding. If there is a suspicion that bedding is a problem, substitute paper bedding or a different source of pine bedding to see if the hives resolve.

Some shampoos or fly sprays can cause skin irritation and hives, as can laundry detergent residue or dirt on a saddle pad. On rare occasions, a horse with a fungal infection called ringworm may develop hive-like reactions around a fungal lesion.

Hives can develop acutely and disappear just as quickly. Sometimes they persist long after the allergen is removed from the environment. In difficult cases, it may be necessary to medicate the horse with a short course of a corticosteroid like dexamethasone or prednisolone, which are effective anti-inflammatory medications.

Certain feedstuffs can set off a skin reaction, although food allergies are not that common. If it is a food allergy, however, it’s often a challenge to determine the exact food or oral substance that is the culprit.

This may need to be done through a process of elimination: eliminate all food and supplements and start by feeding only grass hay, although diet changes may need to be done slowly. Check with your vet. After a couple of weeks with no signs of hive lesions, add in one more food element and wait a week or two before adding in another. This may help pinpoint the cause.

Supplements tend to be the likeliest culprit, far more than hay or feed materials, although alfalfa has been known to cause allergic reactions.

Respiratory Allergies in Horses

Respiratory allergies can affect horse performance by impacting breathing and comfort, especially during exercise. A horse with a respiratory allergy often has a dry cough or wheezing that amplifies when he is eating or exercising. There may be a chronic or intermittent nasal discharge, as well.

Respiratory health is at risk when horses are placed inside barns, especially those with poor ventilation, and/or are exercised in indoor arenas. Many toxic compounds are aerosolized to circulate in the air in those environments: endotoxin (part of the cell wall of Gram-negative bacteria) in manure, ammonia vapor from urine-soaked bedding, mold spores from hay, or hay dust filtering down when stored in lofts above the stalls or arena. Arena footing can also contribute to respiratory irritation.

The best solution is to minimize a horse’s time indoors and instead turn him out as much as possible. Better yet, arrange full-time outdoor living with run-in sheds to protect against inclement weather. Soaking or steaming hay before feeding helps tamp down dust and mold.

If barn living is all you have available, then implementing good ventilation is very important. Use appropriately placed fans, open windows, and open barn doors to keep fresh air circulating. Store hay in a building separate from horse housing.

Another important strategy for respiratory health is to keep your horse on a regular immunization schedule, especially against respiratory viruses. Equine influenza virus is known for causing long-term respiratory damage, including development of equine asthma. Discuss an appropriate vaccine schedule with your veterinarian.

Once a horse develops equine asthma, a variety of medications, including inhaled and/or oral bronchodilators, can help improve his comfort and ease of breathing. It is much easier and more effective to apply an ounce of preventive strategies for respiratory health than a pound of cure to treat after the fact.

Equine Anaphylaxis

In an instance where a horse’s immune system develops a profound and severe reaction, a horse can experience life-threatening anaphylaxis. With that in mind, it’s important to contact your vet immediately when seeing signs of an allergic response, particularly if your horse is having difficulty breathing and/or there is swelling of his face and muzzle or limbs and belly.

If your horse has a known allergy to a medication, such as penicillin or a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) like phenylbutazone or flunixin meglumine, it’s critical to place caution signs on the horse’s stall door and paddock to prevent accidental administration of potentially deadly drugs.

People with allergies wear neck tags or bracelets to convey this critical information, but for horses, it’s necessary to post signs in obvious places. Advise your barn manager and staff, friends and veterinarians who may deal with your horse.

Allergies can be troublesome to resolve, so observe and monitor every facet of your horse’s environment. With knowledge about potential problems, you can deter allergic problems before they begin.

The post Horse Allergies: Symptoms, Treatment, and Prevention appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

In many regions, summer is the time when snakes are the most active, although snake activity can pick up in the fall as temperatures start to drop and snakes come out for warm sunshine before their season of hibernation starts. They tend to be more common in rural areas—like where you may have your horse stabled. Even if you’re not afraid of snakes, seeing one slither out in front of you on the trail can be startling—for you and your horse. Let’s take a quick look at some ways to help avoid snakes around your horses, and we’ll explore what to do if your horse comes in contact with one of these reptiles.

Types of Snakes

We don’t have the room for a complete listing of snakes by region, but it’s definitely wise for you to research what kind of snakes you do have in your state (residents of Alaska and Hawaii rejoice: you don’t have snakes!). Most snake species in the U.S. are not venomous but may still be capable of delivering a nasty nip. Four of the most common venomous snakes in the U.S. include:

Snakes on the Trail

Trail riding in snake country? Consider trying the following:

◆ Use leg wraps. If you’re trail riding in an area prone to snakes, you can try wrapping your horse’s legs with lower leg wraps thick enough to prevent a bite.
◆ Avoid brush. This isn’t always possible, but if you can stay in open country and avoid thick grass or brush where you can’t see the ground, you and your horse will have a better chance at avoiding snakes to begin with. Snakes are almost certainly not seeking out you or your horse; many snakebites occur when the snake is surprised.
◆ Protect yourself. Be sure that you wear boots and leg protection to help prevent snakebites.
◆ Listen! If your horse hears something, stop and take a listen with him! He can spot a snake better than you can.

Snakes in the Barn

Want to keep snakes away from the barn and pastures? No problem. The key is to eliminate things that snakes are attracted to. These include:

◆ Rock piles. Snakes are coldblooded, so they have to seek out warm areas in their environment to help heat up their bodies. Rock piles tend to hold warmth from the sun, and they provide a million little tunnels and hideouts for snakes, so removing rock piles is a smart move.
◆ Other piles. It’s also smart to remove general piles of materials like lumber, fence posts, or pallets, for the same reason.
◆ Tall grass. When snakes are startled, they often make an immediate run for the nearest area of deep grass or brush. Keeping these areas mowed and the exterior of your stable trimmed down will help discourage snakes from hanging out around the stable.
◆ Rodents. Many snakes prey on small critters like mice, so keeping those populations under control may discourage snakes (and you don’t want rodents around your barn anyway).

Snakes in the Horse Trailer

Most horse trailers don’t see use every day, or even every week. So it’s possible that an enterprising serpent might decide to take up residence in such a handy shelter. You can take a few simple steps to help avoid having a snake in your horse trailer, such as:

◆ Keep it cleaned out. Just like around the stable, a snake is probably less likely to hide in a clean horse trailer, because there isn’t anywhere for him to take cover. And if you do remove any old hay, bedding, or gear from your trailer after a ride, it’s easy to see if there is a snake inside next time.
◆ Check underneath. Be sure to look under the horse trailer before using it!
Park it indoors. You might not have space for your trailer indoors, but if you can get it inside a garage or pole building, you have another barrier between it and snakes.

If a Bite Does Occur

If a snake does bite your horse, here are a four basic tips:

◆ Don’t panic. Call your horse’s veterinarian and follow their advice precisely while you wait for help to arrive. Try to keep your horse calm, as extra activity can make the venom spread faster. Keep in mind that venomous snake bites in horses are less frequently fatal because of the horse’s larger size. But horses may still suffer severe allergic reactions or infections at the bite site.
◆ Try to find the bite location. Your veterinarian may supply specific first aid instructions depending on the bite’s location—especially if the bite is on your horse’s nose (that’s a very common spot) where the swelling could affect breathing.
Identify the snake. It’s helpful if you can safely identify the snake species, but don’t put yourself at risk to do so.
◆ Follow instructions. After the veterinarian arrives, precisely follow their advice for post-bite care.

Oftentimes, snakes are simply part of the outdoor experience, like bugs or thunderstorms. And they’d really rather stay away from you as much as you’d like to stay away from them. But it pays to think ahead, do a little research, and be prepared. Hopefully, the closest you and your horse ever get to a snake is viewing one as it casually slides away in the other direction.

The post How to Prevent Snakes Around Your Horse Barn appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

While for most horses, insects are just a nuisance, but some are incredibly sensitive to insect bites, have chronic inflammation from Lyme disease, or have allergic reactions and cannot use commonly used chemical sprays. So what are some natural, but effective alternatives to use as insect repellents for horses? See below for some great options.

Natural Insect Sprays for Horses

◆ Ecovet Fly Repellent uses naturally occurring fatty acids to confuse an insect’s natural GPS so they cannot locate your horse. They actually get confused and fly in circles!
◆ Nature’s Defense by Farnam is a water-based spray that uses common essential oils meant to deter flies, mosquitos, and gnats.
◆ Nature’s Force Natural Fly Repellent uses essential oils that bugs avoid, such as clove, thyme, cinnamon, and lemongrass.
◆ BugPellent Cylinder is a solid insect repellent meant to hang in the barn to naturally deter flying insects.
◆ Essentials Insect Repellent by Animal Bodywork & Aromatherapy is a handmade, custom blend of essential oils to gently repel common insects and cling to the hair for 24 hours.
◆ Catnip? Studies have shown that catnip is more effective at repelling flies and mosquitos than DEET. Add some to your favorite DIY blend with a carrier oil and your horse will thank you.

Supplements

Supplements containing garlic are intended to be ingested and protect your horse from nasty insects from the inside out, all while helping to balance a healthy immune system. These products include garlic.

◆ SmartPak’s Smart Bug Off supports healthy skin and a normal inflammatory response in a tasty pellet form with no added sugar.
◆ Springtime Supplements Bug-Off Garlic provides a 24-hour shield against flies, ticks, mosquitoes, gnats, no-see-ums, and other flying pests as a supplement you add to your horse’s feed.
◆ Redmond Rock Crushed with Garlic is added to your horse’s feed, which encourages hydration as well for those horses that don’t drink enough and who are sensitive to insect bites.
◆ Manna Pro Nature’s Force Bug Clear includes garlic, turmeric (200 mg), grape seed extract, Brewer’s dried yeast, diatomaceous earth and more.

Mineral Powder

◆ Tick Natural Terminator (TNT) is a small business dedicated to toxin and chemical-free prevention. According to the brand’s patent application: “The present invention is unique because of the presence of dried ground mint, which repels aphids; white flies, and others; dried ground oregano, which repels most insects; food-grade silicon dioxide, which adheres to insect and tick exoskeletons as they crawl through it, dehydrating their exoskeletons, which kills them mechanically instead of chemically.”

Sonic Repellent

The effectiveness of ultrasound to repel ticks and other insects has not been clinically proven, but there are a number of them on the market to plug into your barn sockets or even attach to your animal. While primarily geared to dogs and cats, the Only Natural’s Pet Tick Tag and the SonicGaurd Horse Ultrasonic Tick and Flea Repeller emit a frequency that is meant to naturally repel insects when worn on the body. Braid it into your horse’s mane or attach it to their halter if worn regularly during turnout.

Insect Eaters and Traps

Removing pests from the barn is easier said than done, but less bugs mean less insects biting you and your animals.

◆ Chickens or Guinea Hens! While they may not help the flies, they do eat ticks and other small insects as well as scratch at the manure and disperse it among the paddock to prevent large manure piles that attract flies.
◆ Fly Predators by Spalding Labs is used in a natural environment as a natural enemy that serves as a major check of pest fly populations by destroying the next generation of flies in their immature pupa (cocoon) stage, which breaks the gestation and multiplication cycle naturally.
◆ EZ Trap Fly Trap is an adhesive fly trap with a large surface for trapping flies.
◆ RESCUE! Disposable Hanging Fly Trap is hung outdoors and will easily catch up to 20,000 flies.

And while not technically an insect repellent, the Shoofly Leggins do a wonderful job keeping creeping crawlers from climbing up your horse’s legs and keep the stomping and resulting cracked hooves to a minimum.

Prevention is always the best option when it comes to pests. While no insect repellent is 100% effective, combine some natural alternatives that prevent and repel without adding toxic chemicals to your sensitive horse.

The post Natural Insect Repellents for Horses appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

While many equestrians welcome the summer with open arms (more riding!), there are a few downsides to the season from your horse’s point of view. At the top of the list of your horse’s warm-weather woes are likely two items: flies and heat. Here’s how to conquer the heat and keep your horse bug-free as part of your summer horse health care during some of the year’s best riding time.

Beat the Heat

When heat and humidity combine forces, they can make any outdoor activity feel onerous, even riding. Your horse feels the same way. Equine heat exhaustion—and its precursor, heat stress—are threats during the summer months, but there are several ways you can mitigate these serious health conditions.

First, make sure your horse is fit enough for the exercise you’re asking of him in the heat. Consistent conditioning is key; also, remember to give the ambient environment its due. Humidity, in particular, can take a lot out of your horse, just like it can do to you. As the mercury rises, take frequent breaks to let your horse catch his breath and cool down a bit.

When battling the summer heat, also keep in mind your horse’s overall age and health status. Younger horses that are mentally “hot” may unknowingly push themselves. Older horses with Cushing’s disease may have excessive hair that should be clipped to offer extra heat relief.

Strategically timing your rides can also be a big help. If possible, aim for early morning or late evening to stay out of the sun’s glare, or ride at a time of day when the ring is in the shade.

On really stifling days, sometimes the best bet is simply not to ride. A general rule of thumb is to not ride when the temperature (in degrees Fahrenheit) and humidity percentage added together are more than 150. This goes for avoiding trailering, too.

Hydration and Cooling Down

Next, a word about water. The old saying that warns against letting a hot horse drink cold water is dangerously incorrect. Never limit a horse’s water access. Allow a horse to drink as much as he needs, especially in hot weather, because he will modulate his own demands.

In addition to having water accessible, don’t forget to always have salt available. Blocks are great, as horses can regulate their intake based on their individual needs.

One thing you should avoid, however, is putting a horse still hot from exercise directly into his stall. Cooling down a hot horse takes time but is important for the sake of avoiding potential cramping and colic-like signs. Learning to measure your horse’s pulse is a good objective way to assess cool-down time.

When finished with a ride, walk your horse out at an easy pace until he’s back to just above or at his resting heart rate. On an average adult horse, resting heart rates hover around 40 beats per minute. If he’s seriously sweaty, walk more until the horse is measurably drier.

Hosing off is of considerable help to a horse on a hot day, but using a sweat scraper is important in the drying process. Horses, like us, cool via the evaporative effects of water. Merely allowing a horse to stand soaked is far less efficient than a slightly damp horse.

Water on a soaked horse can act as an insulator instead of a coolant, as the water embedded in the coat quickly warms up to the horse’s own body temperature. Because of this, it’s crucial to remove excess water off your horse’s body so that evaporation can occur. Fans can help with this, too.

Fight the Flies

The inconvenience that excessive summer heat sometimes places on riding and horse health care can be compounded by the seasonal annoyance of flies. House flies, stable flies, horse flies, deer flies, horn flies—there are several types out there that transmit disease, give painful bites, and cause a general sense of irritation (to humans and horses alike).

Thankfully, there are some tried-and-true methods that, especially when incorporated together, can make a significant difference in lowering the fly count at the barn.

◆ FANS: One of the main tenets of flying insects is that a fly that can’t land can’t bite. Rigging up some fans in the barn is one of the easiest and most direct methods to reduce flies in the immediate area.

Have the fans blowing as much as possible, and keep in mind they don’t have to be set to jet-power to be effective. Just a little wind turbulence is enough to prevent flies from landing.

◆ MANAGE MANURE: Manure management also helps reduce flies in the immediate area because some fly species use manure as a location to lay eggs. Effective manure management should be fairly aggressive and consistent.

This means removing manure piles from the stall at least once daily, if not more frequently depending on how much your horse is stalled. This also applies to small paddocks. If possible, keep the manure pile as far away from the immediate barn as possible.

◆ ELIMINATE MOISTURE: Another barn management practice that helps shrink the overall fly burden is reducing moisture around the barn. This means keeping stalls clean and dry, eliminating standing water around the barn and gates, and removing old tires or other idle barn equipment that traps standing water. This aids in mosquito control, too—an added bonus.

◆ SEAL OFF FEED: Keeping feed bins tightly closed and garbage covered and frequently removed from the barn will also discourage flies (and other larger pests like rodents and opossums) from hanging around.

◆ FLY-KILLERS: Other whole-barn management options, like fly predators, baits, or fly tapes and traps can also help. However, keep in mind their effectiveness varies widely on various aspects that may be out of your control, including the size of the barn and stocking density.

◆ FLY REPELLENT: For fly management for your individual horse, the fly spray bottle is a ubiquitous weapon as part of your summer horse health care. But, as with all management aspects, even fly repellent sprays and spot-on treatments should be used in conjunction with other methods to be most effective.

Read the ingredients and instructions, as various chemicals may have different repellent properties, depending on the insect species. Sprays touted as “natural” may have more limited efficacy and require more frequent application.

That said, the overall frequency of any fly spray application is critical to its success. At a minimum, most sprays should be applied at the start and end of each day, but it’s also good practice to spray down your horse prior to rides and after, especially if your horse is sweaty or you’ve hosed him off.

◆ PHYSICAL BARRIERS: A physical barrier is sometimes one of the only options for fly relief. Fly sheets can be particularly useful for horses with very sensitive skin, and fly masks offer immediate relief around your horse’s eyes.
However, most fly sheets don’t prevent flies from biting the belly of the horse. For this reason, fly sprays used in conjunction with sheets may be most effective.

◆ FEED-THROUGH FLY CONTROL: This method uses a special feed additive that, when consumed, passes through the horse unabsorbed but alters the manure chemically.
If fly eggs are laid in it, they will not mature.

This method of fly control takes a few weeks to see results; for this reason, horse owners are advised to start feed-through fly control in the spring. Owners at large boarding stables should realize feed-through fly control will only have a noticeable impact if most or all of the horses at the barn are taking it.

For both heat and fly management, the best method is a multi-pronged approach built to accommodate your specific horse’s needs and environment. Small changes can collectively make large strides in helping your horse have a more comfortable summer season.

This article about summer horse health care strategies appeared in the July 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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The post A Vet’s Guide on Summer Horse Health Care Strategies appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Gotta Be Him, aka “Jaxson,” needed three bottles of Zyrtec allergy medication to survive summer. Bug bites caused welts, some golf-ball sized. The swelling lasted three days or more, and the sorrel gelding developed soreness in his front feet from excessive stomping. Supplements and fly sheets didn’t work. Owner Deborah Klotzbach was skeptical of zebra-striped fly sheets and hesitant to spend money on another failed solution, but she decided to give it a try after her daughter tried one on another horse.

“The first day Jaxson wore it was a happy day for both of us,” she says. “Observing him in the pasture, I saw he wasn’t swatting or stomping at flies nearly as much. When he came to the gate, he had one fly around his head.”

The real test was when she removed the sheet: there were no bug bites. It was a relief. Flies had been able to get under other sheets and bite him, but not the zebra-striped sheet.

Animal print patterns on support boots, saddle pads and blankets are trendy. However, research has shown that zebra stripes, at least on fly sheets, are more than fashionable—they’re functional, too.

The Science of Zebra Stripes

As early as the 1940s, scientists theorized a zebra’s striped coat pattern has advantages over solid-colored coats to help the animals survive. Three studies published in the 1980s confirmed that zebras are less afflicted by flies than horses. Although scientists knew flies were less likely to land on zebras than horses, the degree to which this occurred was unknown.

“It seemed like an obvious choice to explore the extent to which the zebra’s stripes thwart flies,” says Tim Caro, Ph.D., a professor of biology at the University of Bristol in the United Kingdom. He studies the evolution of coloration in mammals and once worked at Katavi National Park in Tanzania, a national park with 35,000 zebras.

In 2016, he was working on a horse farm in the United Kingdom that also owned three zebras, the ideal setting to determine how effective zebra stripes are at warding off flies.

Caro and a team of researchers observed and recorded flies landing on the backs of both horses and zebras at the UK farm. They used solid black, all-white and striped blankets on both groups of animals to measure the rate at which flies were attracted to each.

Watching videos allowed them to quantify the frequency at which flies landed on the different coat colorings.

“The flies were just as attracted to the zebras as horses from a distance, but when they got up close, the flies kind of got confused, bumping off the zebras or zebra-covered horses, looking for areas without stripes,” says Caro. “Flies landed on horses’ naked heads, and the flies were attracted to horses regardless of what they were wearing, but avoided striped surfaces and switched to the horse’s head.”

Why It Works

Insects have poor eyesight, and the stripes are like a shock to their vision, Caro explains. Flies can’t see the coloration until they are a little more than a foot away, at which point the stripes disorient the bugs.

“This causes them to fly away or bump into the coat and not land properly,” he says.

During the study, Caro also observed that horses and zebras react differently to flies. Horses periodically twitch or swish their tail to remove flies, but often continue grazing, tolerating the annoyance. Zebras, on the other hand, swish their tails all day. When bothered by bugs, they stop eating and run from persistent pests, dislodging the pests more than horses.

Because flies have a harder time landing on stripes than solid coats, the coloration is a natural defense. In Africa, horseflies carry diseases that are deadly to equids and zebras, a fact confirmed by scientists, according to Caro.

In 2019, a spotted zebra foal named Tira was born in Kenya with a sooty coat flecked with white spots, rather than the usual stripes, due to a mutation known as a pseudomelanism. Only time will tell if the otherwise healthy foal will be pestered by flies and more susceptible to disease than his striped herd mates.

“This is just a mutation that happens from time to time,” says Caro. “Because the majority of zebras are striped, there is a strong natural selection for being striped because of the diseases carried by biting flies.”

Next up on Caro’s to-do list is designing additional zebra-striped sheet patterns that more closely mimic a zebra’s coloration for enhanced defense against flies.

“We think we will be able to devise a very good coat for keeping horseflies off horses at the end of this coming summer, because we are altering the pattern of stripes on coats systematically,” he says.

This article about zebra stripes effects on flies appeared in the July 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Believe it or not, skin is the body’s largest organ, so it makes sense that untreated skin funk can make your horse miserable in a hurry, especially when exacerbated by heat and biting insects. some skin conditions are also contagious—spreading from horse to horse—as well as zoonotic, meaning they spread from horses to humans.

That’s why it’s crucial for horse owners to learn to identify the causes and clinical signs of common skin issues. By educating yourself about them, you can quickly and correctly treat the problem. Your horse will thank you!

A Healthy Skin Barrier

According to Rosanna Marsella, DVM, a veterinary dermatologist at the University of Florida
in Gainesville, Fla., the key to preventing many problematic skin conditions is to protect your horse’s skin from trauma.

Grooming your horse on a daily basis can help keep your horse’s skin and hair healthy, but it’s also important to provide horses with adequate shelter from the elements, as well as protection from biting insects. When trauma occurs to the skin, your horse becomes more susceptible to bacterial or fungal infections.

“Animals who are immunosuppressed, or out in the rain day in and day out, or getting bitten by bugs, experience more trauma to the skin,” Marsella explains. “If the skin has no insect bites and the horse isn’t itchy and rubbing himself on a tree, for example, then the integrity of the skin barrier remains intact.”

Fight Flies

In addition to practicing good grooming habits to keep your horse’s skin and hair healthy, invest in a good fly product to prevent bites.

“Use of effective fly repellent is key, and that’s actually a topic that frequently confuses many people,” says Marsella. “The labels on some products may make them sound like repellents when they’re actually insecticides. If you spray an insecticide directly on an insect, it dies. But insecticide doesn’t prevent the insect from actually landing on the horse. That’s why you need to use repellent.”

When you’re looking for fly repellent, Marsella recommends checking the active ingredient listed as well as the percentage of the active ingredient.

“One example is permethrin,” she says. “In order to be a repellent, a fly spray product has to be at least 0.5 or 1 percent permethrin. But if a product only has 0.1 percent permethrin, then it’s not a repellent.”

For horses who may be allergic to chemicals, Marsella recommends trying botanical products, such as neem oil.

“Neem oil is a demonstrated repellent against mosquitos and no-see-ums,” says Marsella.

There’s another benefit to a daily routine of grooming and using fly repellent. By laying your hands on your horse every day, you’ll learn what’s normal for him and what’s not. Then you can spot skin issues in the making before they ever become full-blown problems.

There are many different skin conditions in horses, often with multiple contributing factors. Some horses can develop secondary issues, such as staph infections, which may require prolonged medical treatment from a veterinarian. If you suspect your horse is developing a skin condition, call your vet immediately.

Rain Rot

Rain rot is caused by the bacterium Dermatophilus congolensis. Characterized by small, round scabs crowned with matted hair, rain rot lesions typically develop along the topline of the horse.

“The development of the disease is precipitated by moisture, which is why we call it ‘rain rot,’” says Marsella. “It’s common in animals who are immunosuppressed or out in the rain and bitten by insects. Dermatophilus can access the skin when there’s trauma. Don’t pick at the scabs, because it’s painful for your horse and also delays healing. When the scabs are ready and the skin underneath is healthy, the scabs will come off on their own. But pulling a scab off and leaving a raw spot is never the answer.”

Rain rot is contagious and zoonotic, which means that other horses and humans can contract the condition. Marsella recommends treating rain rot with an antimicrobial shampoo, such as chlorhexidine or benzoyl peroxide.

“People can be overzealous and like to scrub at the lesions, because they think it will speed up the recovery, but the single most important thing is contact time,” says Marsella. “Apply the shampoo, gently massage it in, and then set your clock for 10 minutes and go do something else. Then come back and rinse. Contact time is what really makes the difference.”

Scratches

Pastern dermatitis, or scratches, is a name for a clinical syndrome, rather than a specific disease. Another common name for scratches is “dew poisoning.” Pastern dermatitis refers to the development of scabby areas on or near the pasterns. Two of the most common causes of pastern dermatitis include bacterial infections and mange.

“Pastern dermatitis can be caused by a lot of different things, including allergies, auto-immune diseases, staph infections or vasculitis,” Marsella explains. “It’s common on horses with white legs or horses with feathers. When an owner has a horse with pastern dermatitis, they can use an antimicrobial shampoo because there’s probably an overgrowth of bacteria.”

In addition to treating for bacteria, owners can protect horses with white legs from pastern dermatitis by covering the legs with socks or wraps.

“Products like antimicrobial silver socks may help, but more importantly, the sock also protects the skin from UV exposure,” says Marsella. “Vasculitis is triggered by UV rays. You can either put socks on your horse or keep him inside during the day and turned out at night. Many cases of pastern dermatitis also have an insect component, so it’s important to use repellent.”

Mites can also cause pastern dermatitis in horses with feathers. Mites can spread from horse to horse and can also survive in the environment for several weeks.

“Feathered horses are prone to mites, and they get very itchy legs as a result,” says Marsella. “Some horses may become itchier than others because they develop allergies to the mites. When you have mites, you’ve got mange.

To treat mange, you have to kill the mites with a treatment like a lime sulfur dip. If a horse is diagnosed with mites, everybody in contact has to get treated whether they’re symptomatic or not. The life cycle of the mite is three weeks, so treatment has to be at least that long.”

Ringworm

Ringworm is a common skin infection caused by a fungus, not a parasite. Ringworm presents as round, raised lesions on the skin that may be itchy.

“They call it ‘ringworm’ because it will develop a round lesion on the skin, but it’s actually caused by a fungus,” Marsella explains. “It is transmissible, so you need to treat the horse for it.”

Ringworm can be transmitted from horse to horse by direct contact or by sharing infected tack, brushes, clothing or other equipment between horses. Marsella recommends using an antifungal treatment, such as a lime sulfur dip, to treat ringworm. Pastern dermatitis, also known as “scratches,” is common on white legs.

“Lime sulfur is very effective at killing fungi and helps with the itching,” says Marsella. “It
will also kill mites.” Dealing with any kind of skin condition— especially before it gets out of hand—not only allows your horse to look his best, but it helps him stay comfortable, happy, and itch-free.

Allison Armstrong Rehnborg is a freelance equine writer and photographer who lives in Lebanon, Tenn. With her master’s degree in horse science, she writes about all aspects of horse care and management, including health, training and breeding.

Cannon Crud Cannon keratosis is often used to refer to “cannon crud,” or the development of flaky skin and oily build-up of keratin on the front of the cannon bones. But there’s also a genetic condition known as primary cannon keratosis. “Primary cannon keratosis is not common,” says Rosanna Marsella, DVM, a veterinary dermatologist at the University of Florida in Gainesville, Fla. “There are some horses that are genetically prone to this disease. The skin has a different way of maturing in some body areas, including on the cannon bone. This is not an infection. Horses with primary cannon keratosis will be genetically prone to it, and they will always have a little bit of crusty skin in that area. The treatment is management using shampoos to soften and loosen up the scabs. These horses can also get keratosis on their sides or chest.” For the non-genetic form of cannon keratosis, gently groom your horse’s legs with a curry comb and wash with an keratolytic shampoo to help manage crusty scabs and flaky skin. To keep the non-genetic form of cannon keratosis at bay, regularly groom the area and wash with a keratolytic shampoo.

This article about common horse skin conditions appeared in the September 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Scratch That: All About Common Horse Skin Conditions appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Things that fly, bite and bother your horse are in the air, and in the gut. Whether you board your horse or have your pony at home, now is the time to think about parasite control for horses to protect your equine friend from pesky pests like worms and flies before they cause problems.

Fly Control

As the weather warms, flying insects of all kinds start to emerge at the barn. You may notice your horse start to swish his tail on a calm day in the pasture or nip at his flank while you’re on a trail ride. Not only are flies annoying, but they can also irritate your horse’s skin and spread disease. Learning how to manage flies early in the season means you’ll be a pro at fly control by summer when they are even more of a menace.

The first step in effective fly control is good barn hygiene. Make sure manure is picked up in the barn aisles and stalls are cleaned daily. Also keep fresh water in your horse’s buckets. Manure and stagnant water are prime breeding grounds for bugs that bite, including mosquitoes.

Next, don’t fear the fly spray. As a horse sweats, sprays wear off, so a good routine is to spray your horse in the morning and in the evening, and before you ride. Don’t forget to re-apply if you bathe your horse.

Hold the spray about 6 inches away from your horse’s body and apply up and down his legs and under his belly and up the neck. Face application is important, too, but be careful. Many horses don’t like to be sprayed in the face, so applying spray to a clean cloth and wiping your horse’s ears and around his eyes is better, especially so spray doesn’t accidentally get in the horse’s eyes. There are also fly wipes specifically made for this. A fly sheet and fly mask may also be a solution if your horse has sensitive skin.

Finally, don’t forget about the secret weapon against flying insects: a good breeze. Wind makes it impossible for flies (and mosquitoes) to land on your horse, and no landing means no biting. If your horse’s stall has a window, open it when possible. A fan in the stall or in the barn aisle can also be a huge help in preventing pests from bothering your horse (make sure to use a fan rated for farm or industrial use so the motor is sealed off from dust and there is less risk of fire).

Parasites

Internal parasites, also called worms, are common in horses because immature worms (larvae) live on blades of grass and are passively eaten when a horse grazes. Larvae emerge in pastures in the spring. These larvae then develop into adult worms within the horse’s intestines.

While this sounds gross, it’s really important to realize that a small number of worms typically does not harm a healthy adult horse. However, large worm infections can cause problems, like diarrhea, weight loss and sometimes colic.
Equine parasite control can be done with one of several deworming drugs made for this purpose, but not all horses need to be treated. So how do you know if your horse needs a dewormer?

In the spring, ask your vet to do a test called a fecal egg count. To do this, your vet will take a sample of your horse’s manure, mix it with a special liquid, and look at the sample under a microscope. Parasite eggs are shed in your horse’s manure, so if your horse has worms, their eggs are seen as small oval shapes under the microscope.

Don’t worry if your horse’s manure is positive for eggs; this is very common. What’s most important is the number of eggs. Your vet will count them and tell you how many she finds. If there are many eggs—typically over 200—your vet may recommend treating your horse with a dewormer.

If there are fewer eggs, this indicates a mild infection, and your horse typically won’t need treatment unless he is young or otherwise sick. Not overusing dewormers helps prevent the development of resistance by the parasite to these important drugs.

To help control worms on the farm, remove manure piles in small pastures and paddocks to prevent the spread of worm eggs. Not allowing your horse to overgraze a pasture is important, too. Grass should be kept about 3 to 4 inches tall—shorter than that and it’s time to move your horse to another field, if possible, to allow the grass to re-grow.

With a little planning and awareness, you and your horse can be worry-free from worms and flies this spring!

This article about flies, worms, and more appeared in the Spring 2020 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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