Eucerin Oil Control Sun Gel-Cream SPF 50+

When you’re on vacation, there’s little time to wait for your sunscreen to dry before you blast off to the barn or beach. This dry-touch facial sunblock for oily, acne-prone skin ensures you don’t have to delay, so dirt is less likely to stick to it. An added bonus? It’s extra water- and sweat-resistant.

Available for $19.58 on caretobeauty.com.

Blundstone Chelsea No. 550

Iconic for a reason, Blundstone boots mold to your feet and wear like iron; they’re made of durable, double-stitched leather. The Chelsea No. 550 boot offers outstanding, lightweight shock absorption. Pull tabs make sure you can get them on quickly and easily.

Available for $209.95 on blundstone.com.

Hydaway Collapsible Travel Bottle

A collapsible water bottle ensures you stay hydrated without weighing you down. Collapses to a 1.5-inch disc and holds 17 ounces of water when expanded (a 25-ounce option is also available). Dishwasher safe, it’s made of food-grade silicone and BPA-free plastic. Available in a variety of colors.

Available for $29.95 on shop.myhydaway.com.

Helmet Brims Horseback Riding Standard Brim Sun Visor

The Helmet Brims Riding Sun Visor blocks both the sun and the rain without blocking your vision. Lightweight and easy to fit onto your helmet using velcro and elastic, this visor is made with Australian shade cloth that ensures high sun protection while also being exceptionally durable and offering a bit of visibility. Various trim color options.

Available for $46.95 from ridingwarehouse.com.

Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30

Whether you’re in the rain or in the wind, Carmex Weather Guard Stick with SPF 30 is the perfect moisturizing lip balm. Offering both UVA and UVB protection, this cocoa butter-infused balm is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.

4-count available for $9.99 on amazon.com.

Body Glide Anti-Chafe Stick

Keep your thighs and backside chafe-free no matter how long you spend in the saddle with Body Glide Anti Chafe Stick. Sweat- and water-resistant, this easy-to-apply balm creates an invisible barrier to protect skin from rubbing, chafing, pinching, and other irritants.

Available from $5.49 to $16.99 on bodyglide.com.

Ariat VentTEK Stretch Shirt

Wear-tested and ready to ride, the button-front shirt offers UV protection and VentTEK side panels for air flow. Its moisture-wicking technology is designed for optimal comfort in any weather, ensuring you look good no matter how long you ride.

Available for $58.95 on ariat.com.

Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers

It’s not always your seat bones that get sore when you’re spending hours on end in the saddle. Acavallo Ortho-Pubis Seat Savers reduce pressure around the pubic bones, ensuring more even weight distribution and a comfortable, safer seat. Available in western, dressage and jumping options.

Price varies by model; purchase on acavallo.com.

This article about trail and marathon riding essentials appeared in the January/February 2025  issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Trail and Marathon Riding Essentials appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When I was a kid, I loved trail riding and had a weekly English lesson. My mom handled most of the logistics—she bought my horse and saddle, took care of his farrier appointments, feeding, and even mucking stalls. I’d just show up for my lessons, load him up for trail rides, and hop in the truck. I never really thought about the “details” of horseback riding.

Now that I’m an adult and have the chance to write articles like this, I’m learning so much. First off, I learned that my mom spoiled me rotten! I also learned that I never took the time to dive into all the parts of a saddle. Sure, I knew the horn was for hanging on when things got a little wild, and the stirrups were where my feet went, but that was about it. The amazing thing about horses is that there’s always something new to learn.

At our local 4-H fair this year, the judge had the riders dismount and asked them trivia questions, including some about saddles. Only one of the 4-H kids could answer her questions. So, if you’re nearby and might encounter this judge in the future, keep reading—you’ll be all set for her.

I’m going to walk you through what I’ve learned about each part of the western saddle.

Saddle Horn

A saddle horn is a prominent feature on a western saddle, and it’s not just there for you to hang on to when your horse gets a little too spirited. There are various shapes and sizes of horns, each designed for specific uses. For instance, trail riding and reining saddles typically have large, round horns, while cutting and barrel racing saddles feature thinner, taller horns. Roping saddles have thick, wrapped horns that help maintain control over heavy livestock. On the other hand, English-style saddles, like dressage and hunt seat saddles, don’t have a horn at all. This is because English riding involves fewer sharp turns, so riders don’t need that extra grip for balance. Each style serves its purpose, reflecting the unique demands of the riding discipline.

Think About It: It’s always best to use a mounting block to reduce strain on a horse’s back. However, if you need to mount from the ground, make sure to position yourself alongside the horse, facing the saddle. Use your horse’s mane for support and avoid pulling on the saddle horn. This approach helps keep your saddle from slipping and ensures a smoother mounting process for both you and your horse.

Pommel/Swell/Fork

The pommel is the front part of the saddle, and its shape and size can vary depending on the saddle’s intended use. In a western saddle, the pommel helps prevent the rider from sliding forward. In contrast, English saddles typically feature a lower pommel, which offers a different riding experience suited to their style.

Gullet

The gullet is the space beneath the pommel, positioned just above the horse’s withers. The design of the pommel and the angle of the bars on the saddle tree determine the gullet’s height and shape. When shopping for a saddle, it’s crucial to use a gullet gauge to measure your horse and find the right size.

Think About It: Wearing a backpack with straps that are too tight or too loose while loaded with books would be uncomfortable. An ill-fitting saddle can lead to similar issues, potentially causing behavior problems in your horse. Always ensure your saddle fits properly. There are many helpful videos online that can guide you on measuring your horse and saddle, but the best approach is to consult a saddle fitter for expert advice.

Also Read: Western Saddle Fit Made Simple

Seat Rise

The seat rise is the raised portion of the seat located directly behind the pommel. This incline helps riders maintain proper position in the saddle, providing additional support and stability while riding. A well-designed seat rise can enhance comfort and aid in effective communication with your horse.

The Seat

The seat is the lowest part of the saddle where the rider sits. It’s a crucial component for comfort and balance while riding. If you ever find yourself in a saddle trivia situation, this is one question you’ll definitely want to get right!

Saddle Fitting Tip: When searching for a new saddle, it’s just as important to ensure it fits you well. Use an online saddle fitting calculator or consult with a saddle fitter to determine the appropriate length for your saddle. Once you have an idea, be sure to try out different options to find the one that feels most comfortable for you.

Cantle

The cantle is the back part of the saddle, and its height can vary based on the saddle’s intended use. For example, ranch and cutting saddles often feature a higher cantle to provide back support, helping to keep the rider securely in place during fast movements. In contrast, trail and show saddles typically have a lower cantle, allowing for more freedom of movement.

Skirt

The skirt is the material at the back of the saddle, behind the seat. It provides stability and helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight. Western saddles come in various skirt shapes and lengths, so it’s important to ensure the skirt fits your horse properly. Additionally, always use a saddle pad that complements the skirt for optimal comfort.

Front Cinch

The front cinch is the thicker strap that keeps the saddle securely in place. In English saddles, this is called a girth.

Saddle Fitting Tip: It’s essential to have the correct size cinch for your horse, as there are sensitive nerves along the belly and sides. You want to avoid any direct pressure from knots or buckles along these areas. Also, if you ride both western and English, keep in mind that the cinch and girth will be different lengths since they buckle at different places.

Front & Rear Rigging/D-Ring

These metal pieces are where your latigo and billet connect to the saddle, providing stability and support for the cinch.

Latigo

The latigo is the leather or nylon strap that connects the cinch to the saddle. You can tie it in a knot for security, or if it has holes, use it with the cinch’s buckle.

Strap Holder/Billet Keeper

After securing your latigo with a buckle or knot, pull the excess strap through the strap holder or billet keeper to keep it off the ground.

Back Cinch/Billet Strap

Some riders use a back cinch, while others don’t. It helps prevent the saddle from bouncing which protects the horse’s lower back. If you use a back cinch, there should be about an inch of space between it and the horse’s belly. You can also connect a cinch hobble between the front and back cinch to keep it secure and prevent it from sliding into the horse’s flank.

Fender

The fender is what you adjust to “change the length of your stirrups.” It connects the stirrup to the saddle and is wide enough to keep your legs from touching the horse’s sides.

Pro Tip: If you’re using a leather saddle, it’s a good idea to keep the leather conditioned to maintain the flexibility of the fenders. This can help improve your comfort while riding. Additionally, there are videos online that demonstrate alternative methods for twisting the leather straps in the back, which can help keep the fender turned outward and reduce pressure on your legs.

Stirrup

The stirrup is where you rest your feet, helping you mount your horse and providing stability while riding.

Saddle Fitting Tip: When it comes to stirrups, there are various sizes and shapes designed to complement different riding disciplines. It’s important to choose stirrups that properly fit your feet to ensure safety, comfort, and stability while riding. A good fit will enhance your overall riding experience and help you maintain better control.

Hobble Strap/Stirrup Strap

This strap, made of leather or nylon, wraps around the fender at the bottom to keep your stirrup in place.

Tie-Down Straps/Conchos

These straps at the back of the saddle can be used to tie up saddle bags or simply for decoration. The conchos are the silver pieces that the straps are connected to.

Breast Collar/Breastplate

While not technically part of the saddle, the breastplate fits around your horse’s chest and connects to the saddle. It helps prevent the saddle from sliding backward, especially when going uphill or jumping. This added stability is important for maintaining a secure fit while riding in more strenuous conditions.

Pro Tip: A neck strap helps keep the breast collar off the shoulder and provides an extra place to hang on to if your horse gets a little wild.

Whew, that’s a lot to take in! I’ve always found that using new vocabulary in everyday situations really helps me remember what those words mean. You don’t have to tackle it all at once—start slow. Pick three terms from this article that you didn’t know before, and when you saddle up your horse this week, say them out loud as you go.

If you don’t have a horse to saddle or just want some extra practice, here is a quiz you can try to test your knowledge of western saddle parts. See answers at the bottom of this page.

Parts of a Western Saddle Quiz

1. What is the primary purpose of the saddle horn in a western saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide grip during riding
c) To tie ropes
d) B and C

2. Which type of saddle typically features a lower pommel?

a) Western saddle
b) Dressage saddle
c) Roping saddle
d) Barrel racing saddle

3. What does the gullet refer to in a saddle?

a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
b) The back part of the saddle
c) The part where you rest your feet
d) The leather strap connecting the cinch

4. Why is it important to have the correct size front cinch?

a) To keep your stirrups in place
b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
c) To enhance the saddle’s appearance
d) All of the above

5. What is the role of the seat rise in a saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide back support
c) To maintain proper riding position
d) To hold the stirrups

6. Which part of the saddle helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight?

a) Cantle
b) Skirt
c) Gullet
d) Fender

7. What is the function of the latigo?

a) To connect the saddle to the stirrup
b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
c) To adjust the height of the cantle
d) To keep the saddle pad in place

8. How can a back cinch benefit the rider and horse?

a) It adds extra decoration
b) It provides a place to hang equipment
c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
d) It makes mounting easier

9. What is a common use for tie-down straps on a saddle?

a) To secure the saddle to the horse
b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
c) To connect the stirrups
d) To adjust the seat height

10. What is a breastplate’s primary function?

a) To make the saddle look nice
b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward
c) To provide additional storage
d) To help with dismounting

Answers:

1. d) All of the above
2. b) Dressage saddle
3. a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
4. b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
5. c) To maintain proper riding position
6. b) Skirt
7. b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
8. c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
9. b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
10. b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward

This article about parts of a western saddle is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Complete Guide to Parts of a Western Saddle — Plus a Quiz appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Finding a bit that gives you the ability to communicate clearly with your horse and one that he enjoys can feel a bit like finding a needle in a haystack. While nothing can take the place of trial and error, Marty Whitehouse Riney, DVM, an equine vet specializing in dentistry and a professional horse trainer based in Kentucky, offers some tips on how to narrow the search for the perfect mouthpiece.

Determining the Right Bit Fit for Your Horse

A bit that is too large can be heavy for a horse to carry; it can cause him to rub his head or become fussy when being bridled and while working. A bit that’s too small can cause even more issues by pinching the sides of the horse’s face or causing painful rubs.

While your horse’s dental care specialist can advise on his general mouth shape, don’t dismiss what you can determine on your own.

“Pull your horse’s lips apart and see how thick his tongue is compared to others in the barn,” says Whitehouse Riney. “If your horse is reasonable, you can also see and carefully feel where the bit sits in his mouth.” This will help determine if his palate (the roof of his mouth) is low, which might indicate what type of bit is most comfortable for him.

“It’s important to realize that bit sizing and palate shape are not the be-all, end-all of bit fit,” she continues. “It’s also important to take into account how thick or thin the horse’s tongue is, which can also make a difference in bit fit.”

Whitehouse Riney says the best way to narrow down your bit search is to look at these five things: Fit, material, thickness, ring type, and joint. Once you find a mouthpiece that fits, you can then start choosing other things around it, such as cheekpiece, diameter and material.

The Right Bit Width and Fit for Your Horse

A 5.5-inch bit width is considered “standard,” but a bit sizing tool can eliminate guesswork if you don’t have bits of varying sizes at your disposal. These tools are made of hard plastic and look like a deworming tube; they’re placed in the corner of the horse’s mouth and slid through until touching the other corner. The measurement displayed corresponds to the bit size that will best fit the horse.

A bit that fits properly will allow for a finger’s width of room between the horse’s cheek and the side of the bit.

Mouthpiece Material

Another thing to remember is that each horse is an individual, just like us.

“What feels good in a horse’s mouth will vary by horse and their anatomy and head shape,” says Whitehouse Riney. How a bit feels to you, as the rider, also plays a role in finding the best bit. “How you ride a horse is different than the way I do; it varies and is based on the individuality of the horse/rider partnership,” she explains.

Texture and weight of the bit can also come into play. Some horses can be adamant about what mouthpiece materials they don’t like, raising their heads when bridled or gaping their mouth as soon as the mouthpiece hits their tongue.

There are several common mouthpiece materials available, including stainless steel, rubber, sweet iron, copper, plastic, and even leather. Trial and error can get pricey, so it’s worthwhile to see if friends or barnmates have some bits you can borrow.

◆ Stainless steel bits are the most common; these won’t rust or flake and are quite durable.

◆ Sweet iron and copper bits encourage salivation and relaxation.

◆ Rubber and plastic bits are not as durable as metal bits, but they are often preferred by horses with sensitive mouths.

◆ Leather mouthpieces are often enjoyed by horses that are highly sensitive; these bits become pliable and soft when soaked with saliva.

Thickness, Ring Diameter & Joint Type

Another measurement to consider is the thickness of the mouthpiece the horse is being asked to carry.

“Horses with petite, thin tongues may not be able to carry a bit with a traditional mouthpiece circumference,” says Whitehouse Riney.

Ring type is another source of variability.

“If you have a horse that’s hard to turn, a fixed cheekpiece, like those on an eggbutt or full cheek, can offer more stability,” she adds. “Other horses like bits that can slide a bit.”

Ring diameter in bits refers to the size of the sides of O-ring, D-ring, eggbutt and loose-ring snaffles; the rings often vary in size from 2.5 to 4 inches.

It can seem there are many as many joint options in bits as there are breeds of horse, and most horses tend to prefer a particular one. In a nutshell, a mouthpiece with more than one joint shapes around the tongue and distributes pressure over the tongue and bars. A bit that is broken in one place places more pressure on the bars, and a solid bit places pressure on the middle of the tongue.

Set Up for Success

The best way to test a bunch of bits is to try out several in one ride, says Whitehouse Riney. The easiest way to do this is to have at least two bridles in the arena with you, each with a different bit on them, and a few more bits waiting in the wings, she advises. To make things go even faster, consider putting quick-snaps on the ends of your reins.

“You won’t need an entire ride in a bit to decide if you and your horse like it,” says Whitehouse Riney. “Two to four minutes with it on and hacking around is plenty to determine if you both like it.”

Comparing bits in this way is almost like being at the optometrist, she says. You can compare each bit to the others, figuring out if it’s worse or better than the others you rode in before.

“A lot of finding what your horse prefers is listening to what he’s telling you,” Whitehouse Riney says. If you have the opportunity to go to a bitting clinic, go, she encourages it. This is often a wonderful way to try lots of bits and determine what your horse prefers, all in one afternoon.

If you show, it’s important to know the bitting rules of your discipline, Whitehouse Riney stresses. No one wants to find a bit their horse loves, only to find out it’s illegal in the show ring!

Further Reading
◆ To Bit or Not to Bit?
◆ English Bit Basics
◆ How to Choose a Western Bit

This article about finding the right bit for your horse appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Finding the Right Bit for Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

German state-certified Master Saddler Jochen Schleese of Schleese Saddlery has devoted his life to designing saddles that protect horses and riders from long-term damage.

“Horses do not consciously behave poorly,” Schleese says. “The horse can react very fast to a very small amount of pressure when it’s in the wrong spot.”

Thankfully, advances in technology have greatly benefitted the saddle-fitting industry. Cameras, infrared heat mapping and equine treadmills equip saddle fitters to understand horses’ saddle fit needs better than ever.

Signs of Damage

Recognizing the signs of an ill-fitting saddle is the first step toward making a change. According to Schleese, the pressure it takes to crush a grape between your fingers is enough to irritate a horse.

Ill-fitting saddles can pinch nerves, cause muscle atrophy, and make horses numb as they work. Think of pinching your skin with your fingernails: after a while, the pain and irritation is dulled, but the injury is there.

An ill-fitting saddle can first cause wither blisters, which are raised bumps on or near the withers during riding. Dry spots (within the saddle sweat stain) on the back and withers after exercise, as well as white hair growth, indicate something is wrong. Both of these signs occur when intense pressure is applied to the skin. They are precursors to cartilage degradation in the shoulders, withers and back—an unfixable problem.

Aside from the comfort and happiness of the horse, a well-fitting saddle reduces stress.

“When a horse is experiencing [pain], the heart rate goes up, releasing [the stress hormone] cortisol in the blood,” says Schleese. “[Cortisol] means high risk of colic and ulcers.”

While there are several factors that go into fitting a saddle to a horse, Schleese says that understanding three main points of fitting will set horse owners on the right path.

1. Withers and Gullet Width

Riders learn that a saddle should never touch the top of the withers, but don’t realize the sides of the withers are also incredibly sensitive.

“The top is just bone and cartilage, but the sides have all these nerves,” Schleese says. “In nature, this is where stallions bite each other. If a horse is bitten there, he will stop moving forward. It ignites the nerves.”

Horses with saddles that pinch their withers show reluctance to move forward and they hollow their backs, making it impossible to perform in a safe and athletic manner. More stress is put on the tendons in their legs as they move awkwardly, trying to relieve the pinching sensation the saddle applies to the withers.

Use a pencil to determine if the saddle is wide enough for the horse’s shoulders. Test this with the saddle resting on the horse with no saddle pad. Take a pencil and slide it under the sides of the saddle; the pencil should slide easily and evenly with continuous contact between horse and saddle.

The withers need 4 inches of clearance on top and 2 to 3 inches around the sides to keep from compromising the muscles and nerves in the area. Saddles that are too narrow will pinch this area, while saddles that are too wide will fall downward and “crush” the withers and the shoulders.

Think of wearing a shoe that is too big or small. If the shoe is too small, your toes are cramped. Too big, and your toes slam into the front of the shoe while running because there is nothing holding your foot in the correct position.

2. Weight Distribution and Saddle Length

Balance is one of the most important factors in saddle fitting. Having a saddle that fits well at the withers with even contact down the back is vital. Saddle bars are meant to support your weight and distribute it over your horse’s back muscles, but a horse that is under-muscled or overly fat might experience the bars pressing harder in some places, causing stress.

According to Schleese, an English saddle’s bars begin at the front D-ring and extend all the way down the saddle. On a western saddle, which is designed to have things attach to it for trail rides and ranching needs, the weight-supporting bars begin at the first concho and end where the seat connects to the skirt.

The bars should sit between the end of the mane, where the shoulder blade often ends, and the “ring of light,” which is where the hair glows in a curved line on the back. The ring of light signifies a transition from the horse’s full ribs to his lumbar (lower back) vertebrae, which have flat transverse processes that are not connected to the sternum with a rib, and should not bear weight.

To check a saddle’s length, Schleese marks a horse with chalk where the mane ends and the ring of light begins, puts the saddle on without a pad, and sees where the bars of the saddle end in correlation to the chalk marks. The bars should be within the marks.

3. Bar Angles

As horses age, they change shape. Starting with round barrels, horses become more angled as they work and build muscle. This is because their rib cages are suspended by muscles instead of a skeletal structure. Their posture changes as they grow and learn to use their bodies to support weight and carry themselves well. Their shoulder blades move upwards and back as they build muscles.

When fitting a horse, consider age and level of work. A young horse will likely need flatter bars, while a well-trained older horse will need a saddle with steeper bars.

Saddle Fitting to the Rider

Fitting a saddle can often take a horse-focused turn, but remember that you are an important part of the equation for a more thoughtful saddle-fitting process.

The anatomical differences between a man and woman make for some surprising saddle seat variations. Sitting in a gender-inappropriate saddle is uncomfortable, and if you’re protecting yourself from discomfort, you will experience tension and a jerky rhythm will translate down to the horse and affect his performance.

Men have straighter lower backs, longer tailbones, and lower buttocks. This means they need a flatter saddle seat that will allow them to keep their heels under themselves while riding.

In contrast, women have more lower back curvature, a shorter tailbone, and higher buttocks. The higher buttock muscles mean that in a flat saddle seat, a woman’s pelvis will rotate backwards, giving the appearance of a rounded back. A saddle made for a woman will have more rise in the back of the seat, giving the buttocks a comfortable boost and allowing the spine to remain in its natural position.

Jochen Schleese’s Motivation

Jochen Schleese has been working to build better saddles for both horse and rider since 1982. His passion stems from a personal experience with his Hanoverian gelding, Pirat. A three-day eventer, Schleese and Pirat qualified for the 1984 European Championships. Unfortunately, due to lameness in the left shoulder, Pirat and Schleese dropped out of the competition.

“He started to have a little bit of an irregular step,” says Schleese. “And when you compete for your country, you’re under a microscope. Disqualification happens because [the horse] is not 100 percent sound.”

The team veterinarians tried everything to help Pirat stay comfortable, but he was eventually retired. Looking back, Schleese is certain that the saddle caused Pirat’s pain, and his experience helped him start a new chapter in his saddle-making career.

Through his educational company Saddlefit 4 Life, Schleese teaches hundreds of people every year about saddle fit and certifies equine ergonomists, independent experts who use precise measurements and science to analyze the fit of a saddle to horse and rider. The Schleese team has helped over 200,000 horses worldwide over the years, and they believe that education is key to making the necessary changes in the industry.

Hear more of Schleese’s insight on saddle fitting in this episode of Barn Banter.

Saddle fit is unique, and one size never fits all. With basic knowledge, it’s easier to pick out a saddle that fits your horse and eliminates unnecessary pain.

This article about saddle fitting appeared in the April 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Get Started with Saddle Fit

There are a thousand things that affect saddle fit, but the team at Tacktical can help make it simpler.

The easiest way to fit your horse for a saddle at home without specialized tools is with a wire hanger. Bend the hanger in half and manipulate it until it will fit over your horse’s withers.

Start at your horse’s withers and set the bent hanger three to four inches back to find where saddle will rest. Spread the hanger apart until it sits evenly over his withers lip it down over your horse’s back leaving just a little bit of clearance, then put your finger where it first makes contact on both sides of the horse. Remove the hanger and measure the distance between those two points to determine the optimal bar size for your horse.

You can also measure your current saddle’s gullet to give insight on the ideal bar size you’re your horse. A standard gullet is measured from concho to concho on the inside of the saddle, so it can be a little tricky to measure accurately at home.

For more details on saddle fitting at home, check out this video with Fallon Taylor, pro barrel racer and founder of Tacktical.

Shimming a Saddle

The same measuring technique can help you figure out what size shim you need to use a saddle with bars that are too big for your horse. If you know your saddle has standard quarter horse bars, and your horse measures six inches from point of contact to point of contact, you will need an inch shim to achieve proper fit.

A simple saddle shim (or even a towel) can help you switch between horses without the need for a custom fitted saddle. Another option to consider is using a Tacktical Balanced Buildup Pad to help improve fit. This pad is ideal for those horses with narrow shoulders or a high, hard-to-fit wither. They work well under your favorite treeless saddle but can also fit under any western saddle.

These pads are designed to give your horse relief from the rigging placement and help a hard-to-fit horse get more comfort and balanced weight distribution.

Why Saddle Fit Matters

You might wonder if properly fitting your horse’s saddle is really that important. Consider it this way: when your horse runs freely in the pasture or roundpen, his shoulder muscles move back and forth with every stride. A poorly fitting saddle can restrict movement in that area, which can result in short, choppy strides or inconsistent movement.

If a saddle’s gullet is too big for your horse, the saddle will shift forward onto his shoulders, hindering movement. If the saddle rocks back, it can create pressure in the back on the lumbar.

That’s not even taking into consideration the pressure that may be on your horse’s back from the saddle’s rigging. Not all riggings are created equal. The Tacktical rigging distributes the pressure of the latigo and off billet evenly on both sides. Tacktical’s variety of skirt options, including the spin relief skirt, can also help your horse’s balance and overall performance.

Other signs of poor fit include dry spots when you remove a sweaty pad and depression of the wither muscles. Improper fit can be the cause of a horse’s inability to perform at his highest level.

The goal is for your saddle to sit evenly with zero play in the front or the back. This can help eliminate performance issues, from stride limitations to attitude issues caused by your horse feeling uncomfortable.

Shop Tacktical’s full line of stock saddles and check out Tacktical’s custom line.

The post Finding the Perfect Saddle Fit for Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

A staple piece of tack for many West Coast western riders, romal reins can be a bit of a mystery if you learned how to ride in the eastern parts of the United States. While this rein started as a reined cow horse mainstay, its use has spread across the country, particularly in cattle classes, ranch classes, reining and trail.

Interested in trying this style of rein? American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) Professional Horseman Cathy Woosley Luse of Whitesboro, Texas, shares how to get started.

What are Romal Reins?

Unlike split reins, romal reins are on one hand a closed rein. But in contrast to roping reins, they also has a second half connected to the reins: the romal, which is a single length of rein with a popper, or “quirt,” on the end.

Some types of romal reins have buttons or “ferrules” along the length of the reins. Riders hold a romal rein much differently than either split or roping reins.

“They can be made out of braided rawhide, leather, or even braided kangaroo [leather], which has a great soft feel to it,” Woosley Luse says.

Where to Use

While you should always check the rule book for the class in which you’re competing, you can most likely use romal reins in just about any judged western class, including horsemanship, trail, western riding and ranch horse classes.

“They’re of West Coast origin, especially used on the ranch while working with cattle, where you don’t want to lose a rein,” Woosley Luse says. “They’re used most often in cow horse classes.”

Note: Romal reins are only used with shanked bits, not snaffle bits or bits with rings.

Why Use a Romal?

Woosley Luse loves recommending romal reins for novice riders because they’re a great way to learn how to keep your rein length even. They’re also good for a rider who wants to improve their use of neck reining. They help keep the horse upright and in the middle of the reins and can help a horse hold his head and neck correctly.

“Romal reins really make you use your legs, because it restricts how you can use the rein to ‘help’ your horse along,” Woosley Luse says. “You’ve got to resort to your other aids to communicate with your horse.”

Even if you never plan to show in romal reins, using them on your horse at home is a great test of the skills you and your horse possess.

“I like to introduce them and see if the horse is really trained through all areas of his body,” she adds. “You can see their progress with romal reins on.”

Myth-Busting

Some riders may think judges have a preference of one type rein or another, but Woosley Luse says this isn’t the case.

“The misconception is that classes are judged differently for a horse wearing romal reins, and I don’t think that’s true,” she says. “I think the judges are really looking at the performance—not the reins you’re using.”

How to Hold

You’ll hold both reins together with one hand below the connector to the romal. Place both reins together on your palm with the romal end coming out on top as you make a fist around the reins. “It’s kind of like holding an ice cream cone, and your fingers have to be closed,” says Woosley Luse.

Your free hand will hold the romal about 16 inches further down. Depending on your discipline, you’ll either hold that fist palm down on your thigh or hold it near your waist with your elbow close to your side.

“That 16 inches between your rein hand and your free hand creates a loop that falls a bit forward,” she explains.

There’s a couple of methods to adjust your reins for length. The easiest is to “pull slack” by opening the fist holding your reins and pulling the romal tail with your free hand until you reach the desired length. But this is not legal to do while moving in some classes, such as reining, so check the rule book carefully.

“But you can do it when your horse is sitting still in the center of the arena or demonstrating a hesitation,” Woosley Luse says.

If you need to adjust rein length while moving, you’ll “jump the rein” by opening your rein hand and quickly moving your hand down or up the reins, then closing your fist. Woosley Luse prefers pulling slack whenever possible.

Don’t touch the reins with the hand that is holding the romal tail. Keep your rein hand closed. Also make sure not to put a finger in between your reins when using romal reins in competition.

The correct way to use them is to move your rein hand from side to side, front to back, solely focused on neck rein guidance. This is where additional aids, such as your legs, can help guide your horse.

“You don’t use a direct rein with romal reins, so you’re really leaning on your neck rein cues,” she says. “It’s all about shoulder control.”

Special thanks to Addison Coutts for modeling these reins at Lybbert Performance Horses in Whitesboro, Texas.

The post Using Romal Reins to Improve Communication appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Riders transitioning to the double bridle for dressage or saddle seat classes can find it intimidating at first to handle two reins and two bits and to understand the reins’ actions on both the snaffle and curb.

In this article, Frances Carbonnel, a Colorado-based dressage trainer, owner of Classical Legacy Dressage, and a United States Dressage Federation (USDF) bronze, silver and gold medalist, explains the function of the double bridle, when and how to introduce it, and tips for learning to ride with double reins.

What Is a Double Bridle?

The double bridle has two bits: a thin snaffle, called a bradoon, and a curb called a Weymouth.

“Each bit has a separate function in the horse’s mouth,” explains Carbonnel.

Using a double bridle requires a certain level of training—in horse and rider—before it’s introduced.

Where Is It Used?

You see the double bridle used in certain disciplines, like saddle seat and upper levels of dressage—usually Third Level and above.

Rules for using a double bridle can vary according to breed and discipline rule books, so consult your association to be sure you’re in compliance with approved use if you’re planning to show with one.

What Is the Function of a Double Bridle?

Let’s start by reviewing the function of the snaffle bit, which is what young horses of all disciplines are normally started in.

“The snaffle is used to aid the rider in establishing a consistent and elastic contact with the horse in the forward movement,” says Carbonnel.

It’s also used to receive and channel the horse’s impulsion when generated from the hindquarters, establish lateral flexion of the neck, and bend through the horse’s body when combined with the seat and leg aids.

The double bridle adds the curb, which is a leverage bit. When combined with the bradoon, the curb functions to raise the neck and stabilize the connection with the hand.

“The curb also helps the rider to further balance the horse on his hindquarters without sacrificing thoroughness and the suppleness of the back,” adds Carbonnel.

When Is It Time to Introduce One?

As Carbonnel explains, the curb bit multiplies the strength of the rider’s hand, so it’s essential to introduce it gradually and with tact to avoid destroying the confidence the young horse has developed in his rider’s hand.

“Adding the curb bit of the double bridle is done only when the horse has mastered the various lateral movements designed to supple his body and has begun the process of loading more weight to his hindquarters,” she says.

It’s never a substitute to force a horse into a frame or a certain headset.

Many dressage trainers only use “the double” intermittently once their horses reach the higher levels to make a specific training point, then return to the single snaffle bridle whenever possible, to avoid creating tension in the horse.

How Do You Fit a Double Bridle?

“Two bits is a lot of metal in the horse’s mouth,” says Carbonnel. Riders need to be understanding that this is a big change for the horse. Fitting the bridle and transitioning slowly to the use of the curb are keys to helping the horse accept the double bridle.

First, take time to fit the horse with bits that conform to the shape of his mouth and that aren’t too thick.

“The curb port needs to fit the horse’s palate and tongue, and the bradoon should mimic the snaffle the horse has been training in,” adds Carbonnel.

The bradoon needs to hang in the mouth so that it doesn’t interfere with the curb on the tongue.

“This can be a challenge if the horse has a small mouth,” she says. “If the bradoon is adjusted too high in the mouth to avoid contact with the curb, it puts annoying and distracting pressure on the corners of the mouth and painful pressure on the poll.”

On the other hand, if the curb is placed too low in the mouth, it risks banging on the male horse’s canine teeth. (Mares generally don’t have canine teeth.)

“The horse may then try to alleviate the pain or the pressure of the bit by pulling his tongue back, or lolling it out to the side,” she explains. “Once this habit becomes ingrained, it is nearly impossible to correct.”

The curb chain also needs to be adjusted correctly. If it’s too loose, it will flop and tickle the horse’s chin, plus interfere with the bradoon when the reins are taken up. If it’s too tight—and if the pressure of the rider’s hand is too intense—any small or inadvertent mistake on the rider’s part becomes painful for the horse. Some horses also have sensitive chins, so the chain must be covered in rubber or leather to avoid pinching.

How Do You Hold Double Reins?

There are several ways to hold two reins in each hand. Here’s a common approach.

“As you sit in the saddle, pick up your snaffle rein as if you’re riding in a regular bridle, with the snaffle rein held between your ring finger and pinky finger,” says Carbonnel.

Take some slack out of the reins, but don’t apply pressure.

“Then, reach your hands down and pick up the curb rein between your middle finger and ring finger.”

For the first few rides, leave the curb rein very loose. Ride using the snaffle bit like you normally would—but remember that the bradoon is likely thinner than your regular snaffle and might cause a quicker reaction or different sensation in your horse’s mouth.

After you’re both comfortable with two reins and two bits, pick up the reins and gently spread your hands apart so that the slack is taken out of the curb rein without pulling on the rein. You’ll continue to ride primarily on the snaffle and not use a lot of curb pressure, even when you’re both comfortable riding with two reins.

Step Up to Two Reins

“The double bridle is a tool to be used for increasing the subtlety and finesse of the horse/rider connection, not to be used for bullying the horse into an artificial ’head set,’” says Carbonnel of the transition to the double bridle.

When you’re ready to step up to the double bridle, she suggests finding an experienced trainer who can help with fitting the bridle and teaching proficient use of the reins. Then take your time and enjoy learning this new journey with your horse!

The Pelham Commonly found in the world of hunter horses, the Pelham bit, which functions as a curb and a snaffle in a single bit, uses two sets of reins on different rings of one bit. The mouthpiece can be jointed like a snaffle or have a solid mouthpiece with or without a port like a curb. While the Pelham is not legal in dressage shows, it can be used in many saddle seat classes. Since it doesn’t have two separate bits, it can be more comfortable for horses with small mouths.

This article about how to use a double bridle and double reins appeared in the November/December 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Demystifying the Double Bridle appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The idea of riding without bits isn’t new, but the idea gains momentum as many horses are ridden for pleasure rather than high-performance shows. The bitless topic almost always provokes debate.

Here, we’ve gathered input from industry experts with differing views. What’s the same is that all want what’s best for the horse and rider. Read on to find out if bit or bitless riding fits best with your riding plans.

Always Bitless

Those who support full-time bitless riding have championed rule changes in many show associations. Robert Cook, FRCVS., Ph.D., has studied bits’ effects on horses and developed the popular Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle. Cook has lobbied show organizations to include bitless bridles as allowed tack.

If you want to show without tack regulations, online bitless shows may be an answer. Visit Nina Heller’s Bitless and Beautiful 501(c)(3) non-profit organization for show info and bit-free reasoning.

“The bit is a block between true mutual respect, trust, and harmony,” says Heller. “When you can do all the riding, training, and showing you like with the knowledge that your horse did it from friendship rather than coercion from things like the bit, spur, or whip, it is the most wonderful feeling—better than any prize or rosette.”

Pros and Cons

Legendary trainer and TTouch Founder Linda Tellington-Jones, Ph.D., began training horses without bits early in her career with the help of U.S. cavalry books written much earlier.

“I realized many, many years ago—in 1949—that I could start a young horse without a bit,” says Tellington-Jones. “I was the kid that would ride—and get bucked off—the new horses at the stable where I rode. One day an old man who saw me riding by his farm every day gave me a book written by an American cavalry officer. It showed how you could start young horses without bucking by ground-driving them. I found that instead of putting a bit in the horse’s mouth, it was better to drive off halter pressure. The horses understood much better.”

Tellington-Jones developed her own Lindell Bitless Bridle after looking at various hackamores and bosal options. The result is a side pull bridle with a round, stitched leather nosepiece and soft leather jowl and chin straps. In her new book, Training and Retraining Horses the Tellington Way: Starting Right or Starting Over with Enlightened Methods and Hands-On Techniques, Tellington-Jones says she uses the Lindell on young horses as well as those with sensitive mouths, and for any rider who has a tendency to balance on the reins.

Tellington-Jones poses the question: “Why would you ride a horse that was very difficult—even a runaway—without a bit?” In her experience, many horses who pulled on the bit acted much differently without a bit.

“It was amazing how horses that we thought were really difficult would turn around if they had the bit out of the mouth,” she says.

Should you ever ride with a bit?

“That depends what you want to do with the horse,” says Tellington-Jones. “I think most horses are much happier without the bit, but there are exceptions when it doesn’t work. If you have a high-headed, spooky horse who puts his head up, just using the bitless bridle isn’t going to give the horse enough information. I don’t think that bits are bad. If you don’t feel safe without a bit, keep yourself safe. If I’m riding on a safari in Africa and I don’t know the horse, I want a bit. Also, if you want to compete, you may need to have a bit.”

Tellington-Jones says to start bitless riding with caution.

“I recommend using the bit over the bitless bridle you’re going to use,” she advises. “Start in an enclosed area. If you need more control, pick up the reins attached to the bit.”

And an extra note of warning: practice your stopping cue before you take off your bit. Make sure you can stop without pulling.

“English or dressage riders, don’t close the leg to go into the bit when you want to stop,” she says. “There will be no bit to stop into.”

Riding Comes First

Karen Rohlf teaches dressage combined with natural horsemanship and biomechanics. Rohlf says her Dressage Naturally training program has seen an uptick when it comes to horse owners’ awareness of and interest in horse welfare. She says many riders are questioning traditional methods and looking for partnership-based horsemanship.

She reminds us that no rider should be judged for their tack choices.

“Be careful, because a rider who rides bitless is not necessarily kinder or more gentle,” says Rohlf. “Likewise, riders who do use bits are not necessarily harming their horses. I am not really interested in the no-metal movement and have often been turned off by very dogmatic views accompanied by unfair videos focusing only on the tools and not the riding. I am interested in educated riding and being able to make choices that work well for the horse. I don’t want people to have the wrong impression that to be kind to your horse all you have to do is take off the bit.”

Rohlf says she is not anti-bit and that she starts all of her horses without a bit, but she may use a bit as a tool of refinement. She adds that dressage movements can all be done without a bit, but it does have its place.

“I have had horses where a bit was a handicap because their aversion to it caused more training problems than it solved,” says Rohlf. “On the other hand, when used correctly on a horse that accepts it, a bit can offer a level of lightness, clarity, and refinement that may be missing without a bit, [allowing for] the most delicate aids and less confusion. In my experience, if you educate a horse and rider to be able to ride bitless, then when you do use a bit, if the horse accepts it, everything becomes even better.”

Rohlf’s first priority when starting a horse bitless is to connect with the mind and the feet of the horse and to use her hands and reins as little as possible.

“Mental, emotional, and physical self-carriage is the first goal,” she says. “After this stage, I look for healthy biomechanics by improving balance and alignment. The next stage is to educate the horse so he knows how to move freely within the contact of the reins and that he can trust my hands.”

When she does use a bit, Rohlf only uses smooth-metal bits and has a variety of snaffles, which her horses get to choose from.

“I love that I know how my horses feel with and without a bit, and that I am not restricted by rules of competition so that I can make choices for what is best for each individual,” she explains. “I tell my students to go to a tack shop and lay different snaffles on the fleshy part of their forearm, then squeeze it. You can easily tell the bits that pinch and the ones that feel smoother.”

Tack Free

Luke Gingerich competes in reining and ranch versatility and specializes in training horses at liberty. Gingerich’s bridleless freestyle reining routines have inspired others to achieve the same connection with their own horses.

“I think as more riders focus on developing the relationship and connection with their horses, they have been inspired by seeing what is possible when clear communication and the relationship between horse and rider is prioritized,” says Gingerich. “That’s different than only attempting to physically control the horse, whether through metal tools or otherwise.”

Riding without a bit is much different than riding a horse at liberty—though both can be considered “bitless.”

“Riding without a bit can still involve pressure and control on the horse’s face with a variety of tack, such as halters, side pulls, or bosals, just to name a few,” Gingerich adds. “In contrast, riding at liberty without any physical restraints on the horse’s face gives the horse choice in whether to connect and engage with the activity.”</

Working up to riding a horse at liberty takes time, and should usually be done with tack to start, according to Gingerich.

“It can take months and even years of consistent training with tack, before transitioning to riding completely tackless at a high level,” Gingerich says. “If riders don’t put the time into laying a solid foundation of liberty work before taking the tack off, there can be potentially dangerous consequences. If your horse doesn’t understand how you’re trying to communicate with him and how to use his body without relying on tack, taking the tack off will only confuse him, and can lead to dangerous accidents for both horse and rider.”

However, Gingerich did start his 3-year-old filly without tack.

“I spent about 10 months taking her through my liberty program in depth, focusing on mental and emotional relaxation and connection, body control, collection, and posture training,” he says. “This helped her develop a high level of mental and physical fitness and understanding that allowed me to actually start riding her completely at liberty, bareback and bridleless, from the very first ride.”

Traditional Sequence

Vaquero-style training starts with a hackamore before introducing the two rein (a bosal under a bitted bridle) and then the spade-bit bridle alone. Many cow horse competitors today start horses in a snaffle bit as the initial lesson tool.

World Champion working cow horse trainer Matt Koch is a master of riding in a hackamore but considers it part of a full training progression. He trusts his horses to respond to his cues well when riding without a bit.

“I ride a lot of horses in hackamores,” he says. “But for the general public—jeopardizing their well-being for it—that doesn’t make sense in my mind. If their horse gets scared, they don’t have a chance to stop him. It’s not worth the gamble of them getting hurt.”

Koch says it’s the rider’s skill and not the tack that affects the horse.

“The bits don’t hurt them,” he continues. “I can put just as much discipline in that hackamore as I can in a snaffle. You have to have your basic foundation put in. It’s clearer to [the horse] in a snaffle because you can be more direct. With a hackamore, you have to wait it out. If [the horse] decides he wants to run off in a hackamore, he can darn sure run off.”

Bit of Comfort

Bit maker Dale Myler says he’s heard more about the bitless movement within the last 10 years as more and more riders want to find what feels best for their horses.

Myler says a horse will tell you if he’s comfortable in the mouth by the way he carries his head or if he opens his mouth. Myler warns riders not to accept a bit just because it came with the horse or because your trainer always uses a certain type.

“Most problems with bitting a horse are caused by people not listening to and observing the horse,” says Myler. “Instead, we listen to other people, and no human knows how a horse feels in a certain bit. If the horse doesn’t like it, the bit will cause the horse to become evasive to the rider’s hands, much like a human putting their shoes on the wrong feet and trying to work all day. Pretty quickly, you can only think about how wrong the shoes are and nothing else. It’s the same with the horse. They lose a lot of focus if they are only looking for a release of bit pressure.”

Myler also cautions that it’s difficult to achieve precise shoulder control without the use of the bit.

“Nothing is written in stone; however, you won’t have precise shoulder control without a bit, and if you can’t control the shoulders, you can’t, as a rule, get a really precise movement.”

Is there such a thing as too much metal? Myler thinks so.

“In my opinion, there should never be more than one bit in a horse’s mouth at a time,” he says. “There is never any need for it. We are not making warhorses anymore.”

Whatever type of bitted or bitless riding you end up doing, make your decision based on what fits your style and makes your horse the most comfortable.

This article about riding bitless appeared in the September 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post To Bit or Not to Bit? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

In many regions, horse owners spend less time riding in the winter, abandoning their tack rooms in a state of disarray after a frantic season of riding and showing. Add in the fact that nobody wants to clean in frigid temperatures, and that you may have mud from winter precipitation, and there is plenty to be done. To help motivate you for the job, we’ve broken down the task into smaller, easy-to-tackle steps.

First, Eliminate Unneeded Stuff.

The less clutter there is, the easier it will be to make the finished room look good. This might involve taking a hard look at your items and selling, gifting, donating, or—yikes!—trashing things that are just taking up space and adding to the clutter. Remember: fewer items = fewer things to clean and organize.

Evaluate your tack.

Sometimes horses go off to a new owner. Or they graduate to new gear. You might also have broken tack or items that were purchased in an incorrect size.

Take stock. Have you used that bridle in the last year? The last five? How about that yearling halter—from your mare that is now 7 years old? The same goes for blankets, sheets, wraps, and the rest. Keep the best, and sell or donate what you don’t need.

Go through your grooming tools.

Brushes, curry combs, and shedding blades don’t last forever. Neither does that dried-out bottle of mane detangler. Now is your chance to take everything out of the grooming box, clean, and save the good stuff (and maybe even make a list of new tools to purchase), and trash what you don’t want.

Look at unused boots, helmets, gloves, and other riding gear.

If it’s in fine condition, you might be able to sell it or give it to another rider who can make use of it. Selling like-new or used items locally on social media marketplaces or sites like Craigslist is easy and can help you recover some of the cost of the item. Helmets more than five years old or that have had an impact or boots and gloves with holes in them can go in the dumpster—no guilt!

Don’t be afraid of the dumpster.

It can sometimes be a challenge—especially for sentimental people—to toss an unneeded item in the trash, but this is a fast way to make a lot of progress in your de-cluttering.

Try to be realistic about the likelihood that you’ll use these items in the future. It may seem like a bigger tack collection will be more fun, but that’s not always the case. Eliminating battered and bruised objects will make more room for the stuff you really love and will help make your collection look better.

Next, Remove Everything and Clean the Empty Tack Room.

It can be a big job, but physically removing everything from the tack room (temporarily into the barn aisle) will make it easier to clean the room itself. Once you empty all the shelves, move tack trunks, take out all the saddles and other items, you’ll find that actually cleaning the walls and floor shouldn’t take long at all.

Sweep up cobwebs.

Even if your tack room is rodent-proof, it’s not spider-proof. It’s amazing how quickly cobwebs can accumulate. You can remove the bulk of cobwebs with a broom, but be sure to use a small, lightweight house broom—not that 26″ unwieldy barn aisle push broom that will wear you out. After sweeping, you can vacuum.

Don’t vacuum hay.

It seems like it should be so easy and convenient, but vacuuming even small amounts of hay will just clog the hose. You’re better off starting with a broom and then using the vacuum for any remaining dust. For sand, dried mud and feed pellets, the vacuum can be your best friend.

Use a vacuum filter.

Durable vacuums like Shop-Vacs are designed to be used with a variety of filters, such as dry filters that accumulate dust, filter bags that collect dust into a bag, and wet filters for liquid disasters.

But one thing you shouldn’t do is vacuum without a filter installed. Sure, the vacuum will function just fine without a filter, but if you look closely, you’ll notice that a vast amount of dust is simply being expelled out the back of the vacuum, creating a new mess as you clean the old one. Always keep a filter installed and keep it clean, since the suction of the vacuum depends greatly on the cleanliness of the filter.

Use the brush attachment.

Your vacuum probably came with a soft brush attachment, and this is one of the best tools you can use for cleaning the tack room. Once you’ve removed the majority of the dust, debris and cobwebs, go back over things with the brush.

This works wonderfully for shelves, windows, sills, organization bins, and any other durable item that needs a good dusting. The advantage of using the vacuum is that the dust is automatically contained, rather than just spread around the way regular dusting might.

Wash the floors—and walls.

Once the dirt is removed, you can go one step further and wash the tack room surfaces. A simple vinegar solution works well for wooden floors and walls and can be used on concrete as well. The vinegar can help remove mildew spots, too.

Wash the windows.

Elbow grease and a window cleaning product should do the trick.

Finally, Put Everything Back in the Clean Tack Room.

This is the fun part! With the room clean, you can begin to put everything back—but in a sensible, organized fashion.

Use vertical space.

Anything you can hang on walls—bridles, saddles, blankets, helmets, boots—is one less item taking up valuable floor space. Maybe you’d like to install some new shelving, used cabinets, or other wall organizers. Saddle racks that attach directly into the wall can save a lot of space compared to floor racks. Clear floor space makes it easier to keep the room swept in the future.

Try a tack “island.”

Everybody loves kitchen islands—and you can try the same thing in the middle of your tack room, with a large level surface for working and plenty of storage underneath.

Clean each item as it comes back into the room.

Tack cleaning and leather care is its own topic, but definitely don’t bring moldy or filthy tack into your newly cleaned tack room.

Invest in some plastic totes.

Small items stay dust-free if they’re sealed in a plastic tote, and you can easily (and neatly) stack totes on top of each other for maximum storage. For efficiency, you might try clear plastic totes so that you can see at a glance what is in the box, but this might detract from the decluttered appearance of your tack room. In that case, labels are your friend.

Ask each rider to organize their trunk.

If the tack room has multiple riders’ stuff, each person should clean and organize their trunks.

Decorate.

Finally, why not go a step further and make the tack room look fun as well as clean? A fresh coat of white paint makes all the difference as a backdrop. You can easily decorate with an equine-themed sign or two, or maybe even find a way to display some of those show ribbons from last year. Add a bench for seating and boot-changing, and you’ve made your tack room less of a closet and more of a welcoming place to spend time.

Remember to have fun with your tack room project! Take your time, play music, and laugh a little. Order pizza and invite a friend to help. Soon you’ll be enjoying your newly cleaned tack room.

The Feed Room Your tack room might also be a combination feed room, and if so, this introduces another set of tasks. 17. Sweep up. The mice will probably love to clean up the spilled pellets for you, but let’s save them the trouble. 18. Toss old feed bags. We know you have a small (big?) pile of them in the corner. 19. Empty and clean the feed containers. If you store your feed in a galvanized can or similar container, now is probably a fine time to empty it completely and clean it. Even if you routinely feed down to the bottom (and you should), odds are there will be a bit of leftover residue or dust that can accumulate over time on the inside of the container. Empty the feed, hose out the container (you might need to scrub on it with some dish soap to loosen any sticky molasses), rinse well, and then let it dry thoroughly before you put the new feed back in it. 20. Clean the feed buckets. They probably need it. 21. Organize your supplements/medications. Properly dispose of outdated supplements and medications

This article about tack room cleaning appeared in the April 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Riding your horse in a saddle that doesn’t fit you is at best uncomfortable and at worst dangerous for both you and your horse. While a properly fitted saddle for your horse is crucial, it’s also important to make sure that it fits you as well. AQHA Professional Horseman Allen Walton shares several checkpoints to make sure you’re sitting pretty in your well-fitting western saddle.

Why is Saddle Fit Important?

Walton says your saddle needs to fit you correctly so you can be balanced and ride with precision. A too-small saddle will hamper your movement.

“As you ride, you’re trying to move with your horse all the time,” Walton says. “It would be just like an adult sitting in a child’s chair.”

Conversely, Walton says a saddle that is too big will put your feet too far in front of you, causing you to be off balance.

Finding Your Fit

Lots of factors play into a saddle fitting you correctly: your height, length of leg, torso and weight. The type of saddle and events in which you participate are also factors. Walton uses roping saddles as an example.

“Ropers nowadays typically ride in saddles that are very short-seated so they can get their feet behind them to stand up when they leave the box,” says Walton. “But when it comes to riding for a few hours at a time or doing different events, a saddle with a seat that’s too short is terribly uncomfortable. And when it’s uncomfortable for the rider, and the rider’s not in position, it’s uncomfortable for the horse.”

If you want to do more than one event, generally you’ll want to ride in a medium-fitting saddle, which Walton says is most often a 15-inch or 16-inch seat, unless you’re doing an event like cutting, where you’ll need a longer seat.

“If your seat is too short, it’s going to be uncomfortable because your legs are going to be too far back, pressing into the swells of the saddle,” Walton says. “And if the seat is too long, you’ll be in a stretched-out position, with your feet out in front of you, and you’ll be sitting too far back on your seat bones.”

The shape of the seat also depends on your sport. Riders doing cutting look for a flat seat, which leaves room for movement without hampering the horse as he makes quick turns. Reining or western pleasure riders prefer a saddle with a rise in the front of the seat.

Getting the Right Stirrup Length

Your stirrup length should be adjustable so the fenders won’t place your feet too far forward or back. Lengthwise, your goal should be alignment, no matter what event you’re pursuing.

“You want a line from your shoulder through your hips to your heels, in most cases,” Walton says. “If your stirrups are too long, your center of gravity—your base and your support—will be off, because you can tip forward and backward more easily than if your stirrups were a little shorter.”

If your stirrups are too short, they can inhibit leg movement and your cues. You’ll also find yourself off balance, and your legs will be cramped.

When your foot is in the stirrup, Walton says your ankle and knee shouldn’t feel cramped if you’re accustomed to riding regularly.

Saddle fit, saddles and people have many variations. But the ultimate goal for saddle fit for you, as the rider, is balance. The saddle should allow you to ride the horse, not just the saddle.

Meet the Expert Allen Walton is an American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) Professional Horseman located in Bluff Dale, Texas, with his wife, Bobbie, who is the director of the Tarleton State University Equine Center. Well-versed in many events, Walton trains and rides in cutting, reining, reined cow horse, roping, and ranch and stock horse classes. He’s competed at events such as the National Cutting Horse Association Futurity, the AQHA World Championship Show, the National Reined Cow Horse Association’s (NRCHA) World’s Greatest Horseman competition and Senior Steer Roping Finals. Walton holds judges’ cards for AQHA, the NRCHA and the American Paint Horse Association. He has judged the AQHA World Championship Show several times, as well as the AQHA Versatility Ranch Horse World Show, the Stock Horse of Texas Championships and the American Stock Horse Association National Championship.

This article on western saddle fit appeared in the March 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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