horse travel Archives - Horse Illustrated Magazine https://www.horseillustrated.com/tag/horse-travel/ Tue, 17 Feb 2026 01:39:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 Warendorf: A Dream Equestrian Destination https://www.horseillustrated.com/warendorf-equestrian-destination/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/warendorf-equestrian-destination/#respond Tue, 13 Jan 2026 12:00:01 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=948412 A few small towns around the world are recognized for their connection to the horse. Warendorf, a small town in the northwest of Germany, is one of the principal locations recognized by anyone involved in sport horses. With a long history of breeding and training horses, this inviting village offers much interest to any horse […]

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A few small towns around the world are recognized for their connection to the horse. Warendorf, a small town in the northwest of Germany, is one of the principal locations recognized by anyone involved in sport horses. With a long history of breeding and training horses, this inviting village offers much interest to any horse enthusiast.

This past summer, my 15-year-old daughter Emily and I visited Warendorf and spent a couple of days wandering around. My husband is from a small town about 15 km from there, and we’ve visited a few times.

This was our first visit since 2019, and Emily, now horse-obsessed, appreciated all that Warendorf had to offer in a new way. On previous visits, she was most excited about the excellent playgrounds in the park between downtown and the River Ems. This time, her eyes lit up with every equestrian encounter.

Westphalian State Stud

Our first destination was a tour of the Nordrhein-Westfälische Landgestüt (North Rhine Westphalian State Stud). I first visited here in my 20s, when I was working at a sales barn in Holland. A few other girls and I drove over for the Bundeschampionate, or Young Horse Championships, held at the nearby Olympic Training Center.

The State Stud is home to breeding stallions owned by the government and has housed generations of horses. Our tour happened to take place on the same day as the meeting of a Mercedes enthusiasts’ club, and the entire courtyard at the entrance was full of classic cars. There were some real beauties there, but we headed to the main gate to meet our group.

A horse statue next to a classic Mercedes.

Amber’s tour happened to take place on the same day as the meeting of a Mercedes enthusiasts’ club, and the entire courtyard at the entrance was full of classic cars. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

The tour was in German, which was a little easier for my daughter to understand since she has grown up speaking the language. My basic “Duolingo language app German” can get me through a lot of everyday touristy situations, but a lot of the information imparted on the tour was over my head.

Still, to some degree, the language of horses is universal. I understood the gist of it, and wandering around the stables is a treat whether you understand every word or not. Our tour included a look at the turnout paddocks, discussion about the interior and exterior of the stables, and a quick stop at the breeding shed.

A draft stallion being led.

The stud keeps an average stock of 65 warmblood and 25 draft stallions. Photo by Emily Heintzberger

We also walked around the Deutsches Reitschule, or the German Riding School, adjacent to the Stud on the same grounds, where young equestrians can work and study to become licensed professionals.

The Deutsches Reitschule, or German Riding School, in Warendorf.

Young equestrians can study to become licensed professionals at the Deutsches Reitschule, or German Riding School. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Olympic Training Center

We returned the next day for a proper look around the town. First, we headed just north of town to the Olympic Training Center and German Equestrian Federation headquarters.

The Olympic Training Center and German Equestrian Federation headquarters in Warendorf.

Just north of town is the Olympic Training Center and German Equestrian Federation headquarters. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

After parking the car, we wandered past a dressage lesson in a sand arena, grooms leading horses, and one impressive horse after another heading to training or turnout. We asked a groom if it was OK to walk around, and were assured that we could wander freely anywhere except in the stables themselves.

From there, we headed to the Equestrian Federation building and into the lobby, where a friendly gentleman at a front desk gave us some information pamphlets and suggested some interesting things for us to look at. This building housed a few mannequins wearing German team uniforms, cabinets of impressive trophies won by German teams at major competitions, and some fun vintage photos on the walls.

As suggested, our next destination was the hall where the show jumpers train, and we had a look inside. We also saw the area where the vaulters train, including a mechanical contraption for training without a horse. All of it was fascinating and incredibly well kept.

Downtown Warendorf

After we left, we drove up the road a bit just to take in the farmland, driving past one beautiful horse farm after another. But without a clear destination, we cut that short and headed for downtown Warendorf.

Downtown Warendorf, Germany.

Warendorf is a beautiful German town, perfect to enjoy while wandering around for a day. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

If you visit by car, there is an easy parking lot just over a bridge outside of the city center, not far from the State Stud. Park there and walk over the bridge, then follow the paving stones on the sidewalk reminiscent of the Hollywood stars—except they’re dedicated to various Olympic horses and riders that have represented Germany in Olympic competition.

On the left, about a block into town on the Emsstrasse, is a tourist information center. The ladies working there were friendly, spoke English, and were full of helpful advice about what to see and where to go around the town. We bought a few souvenirs here, and they gave us a free map.

As the weather was growing drizzly, we decided to pop into an equestrian boutique across the street called Funny Horses. Most of their high-end merchandise was geared toward children, but we had fun browsing through the riding apparel, pony tack, and gift items.

An equestrian store called Funny Horses in downtown Warendorf.

A boutique called Funny Horses featured high-end riding apparel for children, pony tack, and gift items. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Walking through the city center, you’ll pass the village hall and ample outdoor seating for various restaurants. Through the square, we followed the street to the right, then continued straight up Freckenhorster Strasse (street).

We stopped at a little confectionery shop to buy a couple of Warendorfer pferdeapple chocolates—little balls of chocolate made to look like balls of horse manure, but obviously much better tasting!

Like many towns around the world, Warendorf has a collection of statues painted by local artists. Naturally, the statues are all horses, and it’s fun to keep an eye out for them as you stroll around. There is one in particular, attached to the side of a building above the Tchibo store, that is pretty eye catching.

Near this statue, we settled on doener kebabs for lunch—falafel for Emily and meat and vegetables in a pita bread for me, then browsed a few gift shops and then went to a large department store that mainly sold high-end clothing. I’m a bargain shopper, so we headed to the sales racks and managed to find some jeans for my long-legged daughter (it’s much easier to find clothing for tall people in this region!) as well as a stylish top and blazer for her to wear to the CHIO Aachen the following week.

Warendorf is a walled city, and we chose to stay mainly within the city walls. After wandering around for another hour or so window shopping and admiring the architecture, we stopped by an ice cream shop and enjoyed a spaghetti eis—ice cream pressed through a machine that makes it look like spaghetti, overtop a dollop of whipped cream, and then covered with strawberry sauce and sprinkled with white chocolate shavings.

Our mission to sample all that Warendorf has to offer accomplished, we decided to call it a day. Fortunately, with family nearby, we will be back. There is plenty to see and do in Warendorf, whether it’s your first visit or you’re coming back for more.

A Note About Riding in Warendorf

The Warendorfer Riding Route includes 200 km of riding trails that are part of the greater Munsterland Region, which has over 1,000 km of riding trails. While it is possible to arrange a riding holiday in the area, we had a busy schedule with family events.

I had assumed we could take Emily to one of the many local riding stables for a lesson, but due to insurance reasons, most of these stables are “clubs,” meaning lessons are only available to members. Fortunately, Emily’s cousin Jana has a lovely sport horse gelding that she keeps at a small private stable, and Emily was able to take him for a ride.

Emily riding her cousin’s horse through the water in the German countryside.

Although most local riding stables require a club membership, Emily was able to go for a ride on her cousin’s horse. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Jana and I walked along with Emily as she rode down a lane, across a field, and to a pond in the forest, where she cantered near the water’s edge. We then followed one of these trails until the bugs started to become too bothersome and a storm cloud loomed on the horizon, so we headed for home.

This article about the equestrian destination of Warendorf appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A One-Horse Open Sleigh at Vista Verde Ranch https://www.horseillustrated.com/one-horse-open-sleigh-vista-verde-ranch/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/one-horse-open-sleigh-vista-verde-ranch/#respond Fri, 12 Dec 2025 12:00:49 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=946852 When a blanket of snow covers the lush green landscape surrounding Vista Verde Ranch, that is when Georgie gets to work. The feisty Haflinger is at his best when pulling a candy cane-red sleigh across snowy fields around the Clark, Colo., guest ranch. The pony pulling a one-horse open sleigh is straight out of a […]

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When a blanket of snow covers the lush green landscape surrounding Vista Verde Ranch, that is when Georgie gets to work. The feisty Haflinger is at his best when pulling a candy cane-red sleigh across snowy fields around the Clark, Colo., guest ranch.

A one-horse open sleigh ride with Georgie at Vista Verde Ranch.

The Vista Verde sleigh can accommodate four passengers and a driver. The route is groomed for ease of travel. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

The pony pulling a one-horse open sleigh is straight out of a timeless Christmas song, and guests line up to take their turn.

“I think that watching people experience this sleigh ride is exciting,” says River Hofman, who is the Vista Verde Ranch herd health coordinator and drives Georgie and the sleigh. “I grew up thinking a one-horse open sleigh was part of a song, but then I got here and realized it’s a real thing! I think it’s great to see kids, especially around Christmas, excited to jump on. Everyone tells him he’s good, and he is so happy to hear that.”

River Hofman attends to harnessing Georgie.

River Hofman attends to harnessing Georgie. She works as the herd health coordinator and learned to drive horses on the Belgian team before taking the sleigh’s reins. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

With quintessential Haflinger looks—fawn colored and adorned with an abundant flaxen mane and forelock—Georgie is straight out of a fairytale. When hitched to the sleigh and decked out in a holiday ribbon, the pony is more than memorable.

A Day’s Work

At Vista Verde Ranch, which is a stone’s throw from Steamboat Springs and nestled between towering Lost Ranger Peak to the east and Farwell Mountain to the northwest, winter visitors revel in the ranch’s many cold weather activities, enjoy evenings by the massive stone fireplace in the main lodge, and are treated to chef-made masterpieces at each meal. Many come to enjoy equine activities like trail riding and, of course, sleigh rides.

“We got Georgie in the spring of 2021 from a sale in Denver,” says Hofman. “He started as a riding horse for the summer, but he was trained to ride and drive. In the wintertime, he mostly does the sleigh. He [started] driving the winter of 2021-2022, and he seems to really like it. He gets excited to work but settles in later. Right out of the barn, though, he gets excited.”

As Georgie is groomed and hitched to the sleigh, his excitement emanates and is displayed through his ever-perky ears. He nods his head, tossing his fluffy forelock, which elicits smiles from those waiting to ride.

Georgie prepared to lead his one-horse open sleigh at Vista Verde Ranch.

Georgie’s long forelock and eager attitude make him a joy to witness as he pulls the sleigh. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

The sleigh is exactly as visitors imagine, and even comes with blankets to complete the picturesque ride.

“We’ve done a one-horse open sleigh for more than a decade,” says Hofman. “We’ve had the sleigh for a long time, and we just did renovations in the off season, redoing the wood paneling and fiberglass.”

Georgie prances from the barn to the sleigh, which can be a slick trek on ice. But Georgie’s winter shoes keep him from sliding.

“Georgie gets regular horseshoes, but the farrier adds Borium [tungsten carbide] that is melted on and creates traction points so he can get going on the trail,” says Hofman. “It helps him keep moving forward. Under the shoe is a ‘popper pad’ made of hard plastic. It covers the bottom of his hoof and keeps snow from getting stuck in there.”

Horse shoes with Borium studs to help grip the snow.

Though shod similarly to other horses, Georgie’s shoes have Borium studs to help grip the snow and plastic poppers over his frog that keep ice from accumulating. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

Once hitched, the ride of dreams gets sliding across the snow.

Good Boy, Georgie

Whether a day ride or early evening, the sleigh slides easily over the snow as Georgie follows a groomed track by the main lodge and out into the Colorado wilderness. The bells on his harness jingle along, and his footsteps crunch through the winder wonderland. The only voice to break the pristine silence is Hofman’s.

“Good job, Georgie,” she says as she navigates a curve. “He runs off ‘good boys.’ A thousand percent, people love him. The hair, his size, it all makes him approachable. He likes attention and likes to say hi to everybody. He is so cute—how can you resist?”

Watching Georgie pull the sleigh, he is the picture of confidence. Yet, the Haflinger isn’t as bold under saddle. He also aligns himself with larger horses in the pasture to help him out of the consequences of his antics, Hofman says.

“Out in the pasture, he runs around and tries to mess with people,” she says. “His friends right now are big horses. He hangs out with the Belgians that look like him, but bigger.”

Horses in a snowy field at Vista Verde Ranch.

Georgie (center) aligns himself with larger horses in the herd, especially the Belgians (left), who pull the Vista Verde Ranch feed wagon. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

Much like the fairytale rides he gives visitors three or four days a week, Georgie is memorable. Visitors to the guest ranch often indicate their desire for a sleigh ride before even arriving. If anything, Georgie and the one-horse sleigh are a reminder that magic exists, especially when there are horses involved.

If a memorable winter adventure is up your alley, find a location to match your needs through Dude Ranchers Association, where Vista Verde Guest Ranch is listed. To ensure you meet Georgie, visit vistaverde.com.

This article appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A Horseback Riding Holiday in Ireland https://www.horseillustrated.com/horseback-riding-holiday-in-ireland/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/horseback-riding-holiday-in-ireland/#respond Mon, 27 Oct 2025 11:00:03 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=946354 Equestrian travel is always at the top of my bucket list. I’d already been on several horseback riding holidays in Ireland, and knew that any chance to ride there shouldn’t be missed. So when the opportunity arose to head to the Emerald Isle, I jumped at the opportunity. Castle Leslie With just a week available, […]

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Equestrian travel is always at the top of my bucket list. I’d already been on several horseback riding holidays in Ireland, and knew that any chance to ride there shouldn’t be missed. So when the opportunity arose to head to the Emerald Isle, I jumped at the opportunity.

Horseback riding on holiday in Ireland.

Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Castle Leslie

With just a week available, I had to make the most out of every day. After spending a day recovering from jetlag and catching up with friends, it was off to Castle Leslie in County Monaghan. Located on the border of Northern Ireland, this was a perfect couple of days of horse-themed luxury.

I rented a car for the week, and while I adjusted pretty quickly to driving on the left-hand side of the road and shifting gears with my left hand, train service is available for anyone who doesn’t want the added stress of navigating the country roads by car.

The castle has an illustrious family history, and offers several options for accommodations. If you really want to make a splash, you can stay in the castle proper, or if you’d prefer more peace and quiet, the Old Stable Mews are located far out back on the property.

Castle Leslie.

Castle Leslie. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Most people interested in riding will be content to stay in The Lodge, which is connected to the stables and features the upscale Snaffles restaurant, drinks at Connor’s Pub, and a spa for relaxing after time in the saddle.

I arranged the trip to Castle Leslie through Unicorn Trails Horse Riding Holidays Worldwide, and the reservation process was easy and well managed. Every detail of the trip was smoothly planned in advance, and checking in at The Lodge was an easy process. The accommodations were well equipped and exceedingly comfortable. It was a huge highlight that the small balcony overlooked the stable yard.

My kids were heading back to school that week, but airfare from New Jersey to Ireland drops significantly in September: my flight was about $400, compared to over $1,000 in August.

My non-horsey husband agreed to deal with the back-to-school week so I could enjoy an adventure with my old friend, George Barry, who I’ve known since we were teenagers, when he and his sister and my brother competed in the International Tetrathlon exchange through Pony Club back in the late 1990s.

We’d traveled together before, and he’s a competent rider, and since riding is a high-risk sport—and so is driving a car in Ireland—I felt a little safer traveling with a companion.

Cross-Country Jumping

After settling in, we stretched our legs with a wander around the grounds and the castle. That evening we enjoyed an elegant six-course dinner at Snaffles. The food was delicious, featuring mainly locally sourced, fresh ingredients, and the service was impeccable. After dinner, we wandered out the door to the stables and admired the facilities and horses before retiring for the evening.

The full Irish breakfast the next morning was equally as impressive as dinner, if not more so. There was also an impressive array of fresh fruit, pastries and other breakfast items that left me wishing my appetite was larger. But with our horses waiting, I reined in my appetite. After changing into boots and breeches, we headed out to the stables.

The horses were fit and well cared for, and the borrowed helmets and cross-country vests were in good condition and up to the latest safety standards. I rode a gorgeous big gray mare named Blueberry, while George was on a stout gelding named Arnie. I’m 5’11”, and Blueberry took up my leg nicely. There were horses of all shapes and sizes, for riders of all shapes, sizes and levels of experience. A questionnaire in advance made sure that we met our ideal match.

Our instructor, Steven Carty, performed a brief assessment before we set off across the countryside. Steven was lovely and we chatted about the horses, the lifestyle working at the stables, and the history of the estate. If we’d had another night, I would have enjoyed sitting down with him for a pint at Connor’s Pub.

The jumps were on the small side, but since we were both out of practice, it was perfect. The cross-country course is extensive, but since we only had one day, we kept things simple, and the horses clearly knew the drill.

Next, we made our way to the corner of the lake, where we could jump in and out from a small bank or down a series of steps. Splashing through the lake with the castle in the background felt like a scene from a fairytale.

Horseback riding on a cross-country course in Ireland.

The cross-country course included a series of small steps down to the water. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

A walk in the woods that afternoon left me wishing we had more time to explore the estate. It was a peaceful way to wrap up our short visit, as the grounds and gardens are just as beautiful as the buildings.

The Wild Atlantic Way

I would have happily spent a week at the castle living the life of luxury, but our next stop would bring plenty of fun adventures. (In fact, if I were to do the trip again, I’d arrange to head to the castle after the beach).

A couple hours’ drive west to County Mayo brought us to the small coastal town of Westport, a scenic village set on the calm, clear waters of Clew Bay. The bay is home to a number of tiny islands—“one for every day of the year”—and set in the shadow of Croagh Patrick, the mountain where Saint Patrick is said to have driven the snakes from Ireland.

This segment of the trip was organized by Ireland Equestrian Tours and operated by Go Trekking Ireland. Laura Lamb of Ireland Equestrian Tours sent a number of brochures over with information about the various options, and the Wild Atlantic Way seemed a good fit for a bit of adventure and beach riding after our cross-country schooling up in County Monaghan.

We stayed at George’s uncle John’s house on the way, and got an early start to Westport so that we could be out riding early, before the tide came in. We met the proprietor of the Westport Woods Hotel, Michael Lennon, who took us to his stables to select our horses for a beach ride. I chose a tall, athletic and solidly built chestnut hunter type named Coady, while George rode a gray named Naymar.

Beach Ride to Remember

We followed the horsebox to a spot where we unloaded and mounted up. Four of us set off across the bay. Our guide, Joanne Mason, was on a smaller cob who was fairly submerged in some of the deeper water crossings, so I was glad to be on a long-legged sport horse!

Horseback riding on a beach in Ireland on holiday.

Amber and George had a blast galloping Coady and Naymar down the beach. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Eventually we ended up on Bertra Strand, where we had a good gallop on the beach and then rode out on a grassy headland overlooking a couple of large islands. After clattering over a stony section, we came to another beach where we rode out in the waves, before crossing back over to Bertra Strand for another good gallop in the shadow of Croagh Patrick. By the time we wrapped up our antics, the tide had come in, so we picked our way around the bay and back to the horsebox.

After riding, we stopped at a local pub for a truly Irish experience: drinking a pint in front of a peat fire. While harvesting peat is banned in much of the country, some locals are still allowed to harvest a limited amount using ancient methods, and the particular smoky atmosphere in the pub evoked a bygone era.

A village on the Emerald Isle.

If you go, make sure to get out and explore nearby towns, restaurants and pubs for a taste of the local flair. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

At Michael’s suggestion, we spent the afternoon at Ballinrobe Races, about 45 minutes south. It was the final meet of the season and there was a good crowd out for the racing. This was a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry and enjoy the excitement of placing a few small bets. I braved the bookies and bet a couple of Euros on two winning horses, bringing home around 40 Euros and a slightly inflated sense of my ability to judge a winning horse.

The Ballinrobe Races.

Ballinrobe Races provided a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

That evening, we settled on the Westway Pub in downtown Westport for a bite to eat. The food was fresh and simple and the atmosphere smart but casual. I’d hoped to stop in to listen to the traditional music at another pub up the street, but with another day of riding planned, opted for an early bedtime instead.

Surfing Beach

The next morning the horses were hauled to Carrownisky Strand, a popular surfing beach a half-hour or so down the road. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and a little surreal unloading the horses in a sandy parking area populated mainly by surfers and families taking their kids to the beach for the day.

We made a bit of a spectacle, galloping on the wide, sandy beach, which is the home to an annual horse race. The horses were eager to go and we were all too happy to oblige, with sea spray splashing in our grinning faces.

To cool the horses out, we hacked to the nearby Bunlahinch Clapper Footbridge, the largest complete clapper bridge in Ireland, at 50 meters long. Its 37 arches are constructed in a primitive style, each made of flat limestone slabs, and likely dates to the 1840s.

On the way back, we walked past cow pastures and bogs where sheep were grazing on the verdant grass, later taking another lively canter down the beach. The horses were very fit and had plenty in the tank to give another good run.

Mountain Ride

The original plan was to do the mountain ride the following day, but with stormy weather in the forecast, I opted to join a group going out that afternoon. After a short rest at the hotel, I headed back to the stables with Michael and an American woman and her daughter who had just arrived on holiday. (George had taken an unplanned dismount into the saltwater on our beach ride and wasn’t keen to go on a three-hour ride in soaking wet clothing, so he stayed behind and had a stroll around the town).

I was on Coady once again, and we rode directly from the stables and enjoyed a long, leisurely hack to the base of the mountain. Other than an easy canter up a long gravel track, this ride maintained a leisurely pace and was a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, the mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay, following narrow lanes winding over hills and through little valleys past cottages and farms.

Horseback riding in Ireland on holiday.

Riders enjoyed a long, leisurely ride to the base of the mountain, a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

That evening, we walked from the hotel to the Quay for dinner at the Towers Pub, a little more upscale than the previous evening’s location. Following Joanne’s recommendation, we followed dinner with pink gin cocktails garnished with strawberries at the Coast Hotel across the street. It was charming and refreshing and a nice accompaniment to the live music featured that evening.

All too soon, it was time to head to the airport, return the trusty rental car and fly home.

◆ Amber’s Packing Tips and List for an Irish Riding Holiday

This article about a horseback riding holiday in Ireland appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A Trail Ride in Panama https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-trail-ride-in-panama/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-trail-ride-in-panama/#respond Mon, 11 Aug 2025 11:00:18 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=944590 The Unicorn Trails ride in the mountainous jungle of Santa Fe, Panama, is one that dreams are made of. Galloping up mountains, swimming with horses, and riding to a waterfall to cool off in are just a few of the highlights. Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one […]

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The Unicorn Trails ride in the mountainous jungle of Santa Fe, Panama, is one that dreams are made of. Galloping up mountains, swimming with horses, and riding to a waterfall to cool off in are just a few of the highlights.

Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one tops the charts for diverse scenery, unique culture, and local hospitality.

Panama City

My friend, Ali, and I spend a night in Panama City to enjoy a traditional Panamanian meal, including yucca and plantains, in the brightly decorated Sabroso restaurant on the Amador causeway. Colorfully lit buses drive the road beside the park where families walk enjoying the city lights reflecting in the water.

Lunch in El Valle, a town constructed in the middle of an extinct volcano, breaks up our five-hour drive to Santa Fe. We arrive just in time for dinner at Hotel Anachoreo and join our friends, Dawn and Tracy, for homemade fish soup, with fresh herbs from the hotels incredible garden.

Our host, Lizzie, a fit-looking young woman originally from Zimbabwe, arrives to introduce herself and let us know the plan for the morning.

“My farm is on the river, which isn’t always passable because of the rain, so the horses will be transported by road—the long way around—to a friend’s farm, where we’ll begin,” she says.

While handing out cushy saddle seat covers and saddle bags, she reminds us to pack our bathing suits and towels.

Meeting the Horses

After a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, crepes and bacon, we hop in Lizzie’s Jeep to a small corral where her helper, Jose, is just finishing tacking up the horses.

Ali is given Pali, a small palomino mare; Dawn is presented with Luca, a tall brown-and-white Paint Horse; and Tracy has a cute blue roan named Chombin.

Jose and Lizzie adjust the stirrups and I mount up on Capitan, a gaited chestnut Criollo. The western saddle is extremely comfortable.

“They are locally made,” Lizzy tells me. Some of the horses are also bitless, which is always a pleasant surprise.

Lizzie leads the way on a stallion named Calypso.

“He hasn’t been ridden in a while,” she tells us. “We’ll see what happens.”

Jose takes up the rear on a mule named Mr. Red, ponying Little Dude, a small gray Criollo gelding. Kids come out to greet us.

Calypso, eager to run uphill, takes the lead on a wonderful gallop up the mountain road. Resting at Cerro Tute, historically known as a rebel hideout, we tie the horses to a fence for a snack and enjoy the views of the small town of Santa Fe, population approximately 3,500.

Petroglyphs and Swimming

After crossing the peak, the pine trees turn into cactus plants and the dirt road turns to clay—from forest to desert just like that! We zig-zag through an array of round rocks displaying petroglyphs (see pg. 72). The wind cools us from the hot sun, but it’s so strong that it blows the sun brim off my helmet. Even Ali’s special brim with Velcro and hooks can’t fight it.

We cross a large river, tie the horses to trees and untack them.

“Time for a swim,” Lizzy announces.

Swimming aboard horses on a trail ride in Panama.

Lizzie on Calypso and Ali on Pali cool off by taking a dip as the climate goes from forest to desert. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Ali takes Pali right in, deep enough to swim. I hop on Capitan and he is eager to cool off. The current is strong, but the horses plunge through. It’s so much fun I can feel my smile growing from ear to ear the deeper I get. The water is just right—refreshing but not too cold.

Leaving the horses behind for Jose to take home, we head into town for a delightful late lunch at a local restaurant and have some yummy ginger chicken. We stop at a store where I purchase a wide-brim hat for under my helmet, and the others find shoes for swimming.

A vivid rainbow can be seen from our hotel, where we enjoy fresh cheese from the cheese shop before dinner.

A rainbow over the jungle.

At the Hotel Anachoreo, a spectacular rainbow lights up the sky. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

A Steep Climb to the Cows

A local farmer, Wilson, has invited us to explore his land. We enjoy coffee and homemade muffins in his barn the next morning before heading out. This is the first time Lizzie has taken him up on his offer, and he seems excited to have us.

A trail ride in Panama.

Narrow, rocky paths climb up the mountainside to Wilson’s cattle farm. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Ali has decided to give the mule, Mr. Red, a try, and he turns out to be a good choice for the narrow, rocky paths clinging to the hillside. We dismount and follow Wilson to a hidden cave, complete with bats and human bones.

Steep climbs that lead to incredible vistas and long canters on the sandy footing are a treat. After a rest in the shade, Jose helps Wilson round up his cows, and we help herd them back to the ranch where a homemade picnic awaits us.

Dawn’s Paint Horse, Luca, is the perfect mount to practice roping cows while Wilson and Jose brand calves. What a day!

Brahman cattle.

Cattle farmer Wilson invites the group to explore his land, as he and Jose brand calves. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Tropical Forest Waterfall

Dawn’s sister, Danialle, has finally arrived (delayed due to passport issues), and she joins us for the rest of the week. Just when you think it can’t get any better, Lizzie keeps throwing surprises at us.

A trail ride in Panama.

Danialle rides up the freshly graded dirt road in the National Forest. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

We begin to explore the tropical forests of the Santa Fe National Park, a 290-square mile conservation area. Surrounded by hanging vines and tropical plants, a very steep climb takes us to a stunning waterfall, where we can jump in to cool off and swim around in its pools.

The newly purchased shoes for swimming come in handy. The current is strong in parts, so we have to be careful. At the end of a great ride we cross the river, dismount and enjoy a wonderful riverside BBQ, finished off with Ali’s special grilled pineapple.

Going for a swim at the base of a waterfall.

In the tropical forest, a steep climb takes the riders to a stunning waterfall, where they cool off with a swim. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

A freshly graded red dirt road on the side of a mountain allows for long gallops. At the top, we rest and take in the views, trying to spot our hotel below.

Organic Farm & Hanging Bridge

Deep in the forest, we ride to an organic farm for lunch, of which 90 percent of the ingredients are home-grown. The owner gives us a demonstration of how coffee is made. Everyone we meet is super friendly and accommodating.

The clouds continue to linger in the next valley, and we can feel the mist in the air, but the rain subsides for the entire week. Everyone has been happy with their mounts. Nothing seems to faze them: not the horses running in pastures next to us, cows coming to check us out, trucks on the road, or barking dogs.

They are put to the test when we have to cross a long, skinny hanging bridge hovering above the river. We dismount and walk them across. I am shaking in my boots, but Capitan doesn’t flinch. These horses are amazing—even at an old telephone booth, Dawn coaxes Luca right up to grab the receiver.

Crossing a hanging bridge on a trail ride in Panama.

All of the horses are calm while being led across the hanging bridge above the river bed. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Goodbyes & The Canopy Tower

Our last ride finishes at Lizzie’s farm, where we untack the horses and help Jose bathe them and turn them out. It is with sweet sorrow that we say goodbye to the horses, the farm, Wilson, Lizzie and Jose. The experience has been incredibly unique.

Ali and I finish the trip with a breakfast tour of The Canopy Tower, just outside of Panama City, where we get to watch various tropical birds and monkeys at the top of the rain forest. A nature walk rewards us with an anteater sighting, a first for me.

An anteater on a nature walk.

Just outside Panama City, the Canopy Tower provides views of the rain forest wildlife. A nature walk turns up an anteater sighting. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Panama has never been a destination at the top of my list, but Unicorn Trails Santa Fe Jungle Ride with Horseback Panama touched my heart. The horses, the people, the locally grown food, and the stunning scenery definitely won me over.

For more on the Santa Fe Jungle Ride, visit here.

Other Horseback Riding Destinations
Top 10 International Horseback Riding Destinations
The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch
Riding Through Sicily
Riding Camargue Horses in France

This article about a trail ride in Panama appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Half Moon Resort: Swim with Adopted Horses in Jamaica https://www.horseillustrated.com/half-moon-resort-swim-with-adopted-horses-in-jamaica/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/half-moon-resort-swim-with-adopted-horses-in-jamaica/#respond Fri, 16 May 2025 11:00:15 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=941656 Swim with adopted horses, the Jamaican way, at Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort. Errol stood squarely between us and the undulating turquoise sea. “I need you to listen to me,” he said. “People who know how to ride never listen to this part, and they always mess it up.” His sternness was softened by a […]

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Swim with adopted horses, the Jamaican way, at Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort.

Horses swimming at Half Moon Bay Resort.

Photo courtesy Half Moon Bay Resort

Errol stood squarely between us and the undulating turquoise sea.

“I need you to listen to me,” he said. “People who know how to ride never listen to this part, and they always mess it up.” His sternness was softened by a twinkle in his eyes.

My friend Beth and I looked at one another and grinned before returning our full attention to our guide, who explained how we would ride our horses into the water and get ourselves into position for an “only in Jamaica” experience: floating behind our mounts’ powerful hind ends while they swam, towing us with their tails.

Even for a pair of lifelong equestrians with a penchant for travel, this adventure was a first.

Half Moon Resort’s Commitment to Rescue

Beth and I met more than a decade ago in Colorado as volunteers for a racehorse rehoming organization. In the years since, life took us to opposite ends of the country, making in-person visits hard to come by. It made sense that our first reunion after years of separation, the stresses of Covid, and our own personal stories of grief would center around horses.

Stacey and her friend Beth arrive on the beach.

Stacey and her friend Beth arrive on the beach.

It was a perfect surprise to arrive at Half Moon Resort’s elegant stables to find that 13 of the program’s 23 mounts are adopted horses in different stages of rehabilitation.

There’s Timmy, the failed polo pony with trust issues. Precious, a sweet off-track Thoroughbred. Ebony, a 25-year-old pony who was near death when Half Moon’s Equestrian Director Trina Delisser rescued her from a roadside pony-ride operation eight years ago.

“She wasn’t supposed to live six months, but here she is,” says Delisser.

Delisser has been running Half Moon’s equestrian program for 37 years. Raised in Kingston, Jamaica, she grew up riding whenever she could as the daughter of an international polo player.

She came to Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort when it became clear that continuing her passion would require turning it into a career. And while she has competed in polo and showjumping, she clearly loves giving horses a second chance.

Under Delisser, life at Half Moon’s Equestrian Centre is flexible for the horses. She has the skills and commitment needed to give a horse like Timmy the attention and mental rehab he needs.

Older horses like Ebony and those that are intermittently sore benefit from the opportunity to swim (with or without guests, depending on their needs). And those in good mental and physical health get a fun job.

Swimming with Horses

After touring the airy white barns and greeting the dogs, donkeys, and Gene the goat, our group of three guests and two guides mounted up and began the walk to the beach. I rode Zayne, a lanky gray rescue who sauntered happily along behind our guide Errol and his mount Coltrane.

Minutes later, we traded tree-lined pavement for sugary white sand, where we dismounted and readied ourselves for the main event: the swim!

Once the horses were untacked and the humans stripped down to swimwear, we climbed on bareback. I now rode Coltrane while Errol rode Zayne (since the gray became a natural leader in the water) and marched into the sea.   

As Errol led us toward swimming depths, he belted out Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds.” The crystal clear water grew deeper, and the horses began the distinctive rumble that indicates they were starting to swim.

“Drop your reins!” Errol shouted over the noise, and suddenly, we were weightless. I tangled my fingers in Coltrane’s mane and leaned forward, letting my legs floating behind me as we swam into the rolling waves.

Swimming on horseback at Half Moon Resort in Jamaica.

Errol leads the group into the sea.

Suddenly, I heard Errol’s voice again. “To the tail!” he shouted, and I gently pushed myself toward Coltrane’s chestnut tail.

As we swam in sweeping circles, I held onto Coltrane for guidance, but the sea kept me afloat, and somehow, there was minimal resistance. I turned on my side and found Beth. We were both laughing the way we probably did the first time we cantered. I kept rotating onto my back, to look at the cotton-ball clouds. Then I spun onto my stomach to take in the strange vision of horse ears held just above ocean.

As we turned toward the shore one last time, we let the waves push us onto our horses’ backs. My heart sank. The ride was over. But as I squinted at the palm-lined beach, the postcard water, my dear friend, and the shine of a wet equine neck, I took a deep breath of gratitude.

For at least a moment, it felt like Errol (and Bob Marley) were right. Everything would be alright.

Opportunities for Different Levels of Experience

Beyond the Jamaican magic of swimming with horses, Half Moon Equestrian Centre offers a range of experiences suitable for riders and non-riders:

Private dressage, jumping, or polo lessons are available for beginner to advanced riders over 10 years old.

Inexperienced and rusty riders 6 and older may opt for a leisurely horseback “Sand Stroll” to the beach with a bit of a dip in water (but no swimming) or a mini lesson in the arena followed by a ride around the property.

Kids 6 and under can spend their time learning to interact with the array of animals that call the Equestrian Centre home, including donkeys, goats, and of course, ponies!

Adults looking for some quality horse time out of the saddle can sign up for a “Positive Empowerment” groundwork session.

An underwater view of a horse swimming.

Beautiful clear blue waters and swimming horses make a bucket-list combination.

If you’re ready to get away and relax while admiring turquoise waters around horses, this could be your perfect destination.

Learn more and book your stay at halfmoon.com.

This article about Half Moon Resort appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch: Get Away From It All https://www.horseillustrated.com/the-hideout-lodge-guest-ranch/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/the-hideout-lodge-guest-ranch/#respond Mon, 12 May 2025 11:00:30 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=941419 A basket of snacks, a personalized welcome note, and a bottle of red wine greeted me as I opened my cabin door at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch, nestled in the Shell Valley at the foot of the Big Horn Mountains, an hour east of Cody, Wyo. After a swim in the pool and […]

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A basket of snacks, a personalized welcome note, and a bottle of red wine greeted me as I opened my cabin door at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch, nestled in the Shell Valley at the foot of the Big Horn Mountains, an hour east of Cody, Wyo.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

After a swim in the pool and a soak in the hot tub, I joined guests in the main lodge for their final social gathering and outdoor barbecue. The stories of their week’s riding adventures were abundant, and everyone seemed eager to return, one on her sixth visit. I spent the next few days learning the secret to The Hideout’s success.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch History

In 1995, David Flitner and Paula De Cabooter-Flitner started construction of the guest ranch, building the main lodge, cabins, arena, and barn on a prime riverfront location of the property, offering unobstructed views of the Big Horn Mountains.

Riding a gray horse on the trails at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Initially named after a local historical ranch, Trapper Creek Guest Ranch, it was rebranded as Hideout Adventures, Inc. Peter De Cabooter, Paula’s nephew, arrived from Belgium in 2006 to help, and a year later was joined by his wife Marijn and their twin boys.

The reins were eventually handed over to Peter, and The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch began its growth.

Year-Round Focus

Taking over full ownership in 2017, Peter began the transition from a seasonal three or four months per year operation into a more sustainable year-round business. His corporate experience is key to The Hideout’s success today.

“In order to keep a reliable crew and create a culture, we needed to offer more year-round jobs for our staff,” he says.

Trail riding at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Peter follows the “3 C Culture” of character, conduct and competence.

“One can train for competence, but not for character and conduct,” he explains. “And this is even harder in a seasonal environment.”

Having the right crew focusing on the principles of their authentic hospitality—taking care of its people, guests, and horses—is of the utmost importance, as is their branded Authentic Horsemanship.

Authentic Horsemanship

When Marijn first arrived at the ranch, she was far from a cowgirl. Mileage in the saddle and exposure to many horse trainers, including Yvet Blokesch of Featherlite Academy in the Netherlands and Parelli trainers Farrah Green and Amy Bowers, Marijn gained well-rounded horsemanship skills.

Marijn was introduced to liberty work by Kirsten Brein, trainee of Lorenzo the Flying Frenchman, and now shares her knowledge with interested guests. From various training methods, The Hideout shaped their own branded Authentic Horsemanship based on a trusting relationship through communication, respect and understanding.

Liberty work with a gray horse.

Marijn was introduced to liberty work by Kirsten Brein, trainee of Lorenzo the Flying Frenchman, and now shares her knowledge with interested guests. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Peter describes it as “An ethical, respectful, safe, enjoyable and professional approach, getting the best out of both horse and rider.”

The Horses and Trails

I could sense the Authentic Horsemanship methodology from the saddle while on one of their many horses. With over 650,000 acres to explore and elevations ranging from 4,200 to 13,100 feet, there are a broad range of climates and plenty of biodiversity within riding distance of the ranch.

Creek crossing on horseback at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

We chose the cooler canyon ride to escape the August heat. I would be riding with Peter and Marijn’s son Victor, as well as Nina Reuter, a German woman who was originally a Hideout guest, but who left a corporate life in New York to join the Hideout crew.

We crossed rushing rivers surrounded by lush greenery in the red rock canyons, cantered on sandy footing, and galloped past the red Needle Rock towering above us. A short trailer ride brought us to the nearby bentonite clay-painted hills.

Riders gallop their horses with a backdrop of red rock formations.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

My mount, a palomino Quarter Horse named Sheridan, was a true gem. Being well tuned in neck reining, there was minimal rein contact needed, and gaits changed simply from my seat.

“What a wonderful treat for a trail horse,” I said to Nina.

“Yes,” she replied. “The key is to train the guests how to ride our horses.”

Orientation and Safety Talk

All guests, from beginner to advanced riders, participate in an extensive safety orientation at the start of the week, then mount up for an ability assessment.

A horsemanship clinic and orientation in an indoor arena.

Guests of all riding abilities participate in an extensive safety orientation at the start of the week. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

I watched guests ranging in ages from 11 to 75 walk in a circle and stop, trot along the rail, and depending on their self-proclaimed ability, perform a few canter strides. Instructed to use only their seat for balance, some experienced difficulties, but Marijn reassured improvement by week’s end. It was a safe yet revealing way to split into groups before hitting the trails.

Returning later with big grins, everyone had fun and felt comfortable. Catering rides to their guests’ preference on length, pace, and terrain, the wranglers could now make informed decisions on who was capable of what.

The Whole Package

In my short visit, I concluded that what brings guests back repeatedly to The Hideout is their attention to detail, consistency, and authenticity. Their hospitality and horsemanship benefits everyone, especially the horses, creating a perfect balance.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch in Shell, Wyo., ticks all the boxes necessary for a comfortable adventure on safe horses in spectacularly diverse scenery. I applaud them!

Learn more about a visit to The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch at thehideout.com.

This article appeared in the April 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Wendy Hofstee: Riding Around the World with Unicorn Trails https://www.horseillustrated.com/wendy-hofstee-riding-around-the-world-with-unicorn-trails/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/wendy-hofstee-riding-around-the-world-with-unicorn-trails/#respond Wed, 26 Feb 2025 12:00:11 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=939341 Wendy Hofstee has a very thick passport. Three hundred thirty-eight trips to 156 countries—and all of those trips were on horseback. Hofstee is the founder and owner of Unicorn Trails, a company that organizes and leads horseback riding vacations around the world. The trips can last from a few days to several weeks. Born in […]

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Wendy Hofstee has a very thick passport. Three hundred thirty-eight trips to 156 countries—and all of those trips were on horseback.

Wendy Hofstee on a ride in Costa Rica.

Wendy Hofstee on a ride in Costa Rica.

Hofstee is the founder and owner of Unicorn Trails, a company that organizes and leads horseback riding vacations around the world. The trips can last from a few days to several weeks.

Born in Holland and raised in South Africa, she moved to Britain after qualifying as a veterinarian. A dedicated traveler, she would work for six months, then travel for six months. Whenever possible, she’d find a way to work horses into the itinerary.

Seed of an Idea

The idea of turning her passion into a business came in 1999 while on a lengthy riding trek in the Amazon with friends. People often asked about her adventures and were interested in trying something similar.

Using her South African connections, Hofstee started arranging riding safaris. Using her dining room table as an office, she soon organized trips to South Africa, Botswana, and Madagascar. She now has a network of nearly 200 employees, partners, and guides.

“I’m very passionate about getting as many people as possible on the back of a horse and exploring,” says Hofstee. “My philosophy is that if you can persuade a significant proportion of the population to strap two sticks on their feet and throw themselves down a snowy hill, why can’t you persuade them to get on the back of a horse?”

Cultural Exploration

One of her main goals is learning about the culture of other countries. Horses, she says, are the ideal starting point.

“You find horse cultures in the most unexpected places,” says Hofstee. “Who would have thought that the highlands of Ethiopia had a horse culture? When you speak the language of the horse, you’ve got a common language. You can communicate.

“I remember riding into a little village in the Amazon, and people immediately came out and started asking questions about our horses—how old they were, what did we pay for them, where did we get the saddles, all sorts of things,” she recalls. “We always try to ride the local breeds and use the tack and local habits. Those things usually develop that way for a reason, and understanding that is one reason we travel on horseback.”

Gentle Riding

The notion of a riding vacation can be simultaneously exciting and intimidating.  Galloping across the savannah with a herd of zebras sounds thrilling, but also terrifying for people who are nervous on strange horses and in strange surroundings. Hofstee stresses that her trips are designed with that concern in mind.

“Most rides are taken at a walk,” she says. “The vast majority are for people who want to have a nice ride on a well-schooled, well-trained horse. Maybe we have a few trots and a gentle canter, but we don’t want anyone to feel unsafe or uncertain. I understand that. I don’t bounce anymore when I fall, either. Our horses know their jobs and take care of their riders. Someone who is a novice and spends a day or so learning how to handle a horse is often a better rider for these trips than an experienced rider who wants to direct the horse all the time.”

Out for Adventure

Hofstee does keep a list of riders who want more adventure. She’ll often invite them on scouting trips—initial rides to see if a new destination will fit her needs. Even if the trip doesn’t work out as hoped, the group adapts to the situation and has a unique adventure.

Even with planned trips, the unexpected can happen, like the time a herd of elephants casually strolled through their campsite one night. The group had inadvertently stopped on a trail regularly used by the local herd.

“The horses were on a picket line and panicked, of course,” Hofstee recalls. “We spent some time tracking them down and getting them back.”

Her catalog of trips covers the world and is constantly changing.

“It depends, in part, on our partners,” she says. “Some guides do many trips, while others specialize in one or two specific experiences.  We’re subjected to changes as the world changes. One of my favorite trips was to Lake Baikal in Russia, but with the political situation, it’s not safe to go there now.”

Her other favorite is Iceland.

Personal Touch

At a time when many tour companies use impersonal websites, descriptions, and reviews, Unicorn Trails works one on one with customers. About 40 percent of her customers are return clients.

“People get very addicted to exploring the world in this way,” says Hofstee. “A lot of people buy five or six trips a year. Our highly trained people match [customers] up with a trip individually. We make sure that people get the experience they want.”

Galloping through the Okavango Delta in Botswana.

A Unicorn Trails ride splashes through the Okavango Delta in Botswana.

Hofstee wants the world to appreciate the magic of discovering the world on horseback.

“There’s a quote that says, ‘Wherever man has left his footprint in the long ascent from barbarism to civilization, we find the hoofprints of a horse beside it.’”

This article about Wendy Hofstee of Unicorn Trails appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A Journey Through Photos: Icelandic Horses https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-journey-through-photos-icelandic-horses/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-journey-through-photos-icelandic-horses/#respond Fri, 13 Sep 2024 11:00:39 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=933781 Imagine being behind the lens, capturing photos of the majestic Icelandic Horses in the mystical and breathtaking scenery of Iceland. Take a visual journey through the land of fire and ice, where I spent 10 days photographing the stunning beauty of the Icelandic Horse in its natural habitat. As soon as I arrived in Iceland, […]

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A herd of Icelandic Horses gallop through water

Imagine being behind the lens, capturing photos of the majestic Icelandic Horses in the mystical and breathtaking scenery of Iceland.

Take a visual journey through the land of fire and ice, where I spent 10 days photographing the stunning beauty of the Icelandic Horse in its natural habitat.

As soon as I arrived in Iceland, I knew this was going to be a trip unlike any other. The landscape was covered in colorful lupine flowers, and I saw ocean, waterfalls, mountains, and glaciers everywhere. For the next 10 days, I would photograph one of the country’s most iconic animals: Icelandic Horses.

This experience was organized and lead by photographer Phyllis Burchett. Almost exactly a year before I boarded the plane to Iceland, and on the heels of turning 50 during the pandemic lockdown, I found out about this opportunity and couldn’t pass it up.

An Icelandic Horse walks past a waterfall

Phyllis organized six different equine photo shoot setups that ranged from waterfalls and river crossings to horses in meadows of lupine flowers.

A team of four talented horsewomen moved the herds or individual horses to the locations and into the specific spots where we wanted to photograph them. They endured rain, rivers, and early mornings, as well as being dive-bombed by nesting sterns, just so we could get our shots!

ponies in iceland pass by a waterfall A herd of icelandic horses riding ponies through Iceland an icelandic horse in front of a waterfall A pony in a field of lupine flowers wild ponies in a disagreement The herding of ponies in Iceland A foal stretches its hind legs An Icelandic Horse in front of a waterfall herd of icelandic horses

The joy of capturing this experience through my lens is one I will remember for the rest of my life. Through capturing the beauty, grace, and sheer majesty of these magnificent creatures against some of the most breathtaking backdrops that nature has to offer, Iceland left an indelible mark on my heart.

American Horse Publications Media Awards logo

The original print version of this photo portfolio, published in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated, earned a 1st place award at the 2024 AHP Awards in the Self-Supported Publication Editorial Design category for graphic designer Cynthia Kassebaum and writer/photographer Shelley Paulson.

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Guest Ranch Horses https://www.horseillustrated.com/guest-ranch-horses/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/guest-ranch-horses/#respond Tue, 30 Apr 2024 12:00:43 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=928658 Horses in the guest ranch industry come from varied breeds and backgrounds. Learn more about them. The scenery may be stunning, the food and staff top-notch, but ultimately, it’s the four-legged workforce that makes for a memorable trip at any dude ranch. “It takes a special kind of horse to have a different rider every […]

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Horses in the guest ranch industry come from varied breeds and backgrounds. Learn more about them.

The scenery may be stunning, the food and staff top-notch, but ultimately, it’s the four-legged workforce that makes for a memorable trip at any dude ranch.

“It takes a special kind of horse to have a different rider every week,” notes Meris Stout, owner of Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch. “A lot of horses don’t have the right temperament to have different riders and be patient.”

Guest ranches and outfitters in different states share what goes into finding and maintaining these equine memory-makers.

Drowsy Water Ranch

A group of horses and out for a ride at a Colorado guest ranch

Photo courtesy Drowsy Water Ranch

Bordering thousands of acres of spectacular backcountry and the Arapahoe National Forest, Drowsy Water Ranch (DWR) near Granby, Colo., has been a guest ranch for 90 years. Since 1977, it’s been owned by the Fosha family.

With a string of about 120 horses and two mules, DWR accommodates riders of all skill levels for six-night, all-inclusive stays. During the season (late May to early September), horses are ridden an average of three to four days a week and are pastured every night. Ideally, the horses work one week and have the next week off.

A herd trots down a dusty path

During the summer season, horses at Drowsy Water Ranch are ridden three to four days a week and pastured every night. Photo courtesy Drowsy Water Ranch

Quarter Horses are the main breed—some registered, some not—but there are also quite a few Paints and about 30 full draft or draft crosses.

“Some of our best horses are draft crosses,” says ranch manager Justin Fosha. “They seem to be good keepers in the mountains, can carry a [heavier rider], and are still very athletic.”

DWR buys from multiple sources, including backyard owners, cattle ranchers, breeders and horse traders. Although price varies greatly, Justin says the average price in their area is $3,000 to $5,000.

About 50 percent of the ranch’s horses are bought locally, while the other 50 percent come from sales and auctions, ranging from the Denver area to Montana.

“We also go to sales specific to drafts or draft crosses,” says Fosha, noting that the only drawback is many draft horses still need to learn to neck rein.

For DWR, the ideal horse is 5 to 15 years old and well-broke with a trustworthy temperament. Good feet are important because of the rocky trails. Most horses are shod all around.

A trail guide at a dude ranch gets two guests situated on their horses

At Drowsy Water Ranch, the ideal horse is well-broke with a trustworthy temperament. Photo courtesy Drowsy Water Ranch

DWR horses only work the summer season and spend the rest of the year pastured on the fields where the ranch raises its own hay, a nutritious mountain grass mix. The whole herd is fed grain while working in the summer and receive daily hay once the snow comes. Shoes are pulled for the winter.

At 1,300 acres total, DWR has enough land to retire a horse to pasture if he becomes unusable due to age or injury.

“We don’t send old horses to auction,” says Fosha. “We’d rather them be humanely put down at the ranch than sent on a truck to Mexico.”

DWR currently has 12 pensioned horses, some of which have been with the ranch for 30-plus years. A few are still used on a limited basis, such as a once-a-week ride for a young guest. This group is kept where they get senior feed daily and have hay in front of them 24/7.

Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch

The Land of Enchantment is home to Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch in southwestern New Mexico. Although the ranch covers just 20 acres, it is surrounded by the 3.3 million-acre Gila National Forest, one of the largest federal land masses in the lower 48 States.

Originally started as a hunting lodge in the 1980s, since 2007, it’s been owned by the Esterly family: Harry, Diana, daughter Meris Esterly Stout, and Meris’s husband Seth.

Their current stable consists of 32 horses, which are mostly Quarter Horses and draft crosses.

“We’re in a very mountainous area, so we’ve found that a bigger horse does better here,” says Meris. “We like 15.2 hands as a minimum, up to about 16.2 hands.” She adds that it’s important for horses to neck rein, as guests want a free hand for taking photos.

Guests at a dude ranch ride their horses through a river canyon

Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch is in a mountainous area, and they find that bigger horses do better there. Photo by Meris Stout

“When we bought the ranch 15 years ago, you could get a good trail horse for $1,500 to $2,000,” she says. “Multiply that by seven now for the same quality horse. Most of that increase seems to have been in past four to five years. Recently, I’ve had good luck getting them at the auction in Billings, Montana. A lot of good quality horses go through there.”

Meris prefers to buy in the 5- to 10-year-old age range.

Off-season is Mid-November through early March. Horses winter at the ranch, which hauls in hay year-round since there aren’t pastures for grazing.

Most horses will have shoes pulled, except for the few that Meris and Seth ride through winter, often helping a neighboring rancher with cattle work. These are typically younger horses whose training benefits from more hours under saddle.

“As the horses get older, we use lighter riders and shorter rides,” she says. “Just like with people, it’s good for the older horses to keep moving.”

A trail guide with a cat on her shoulder pats a pinto that's tacked up and ready for a ride

Horses at Geronimo go on shorter rides with lighter riders as they get older. Most start at the ranch between ages 5 and 10. Photo by Meris Stout

Because the ranch has limited acreage, retiring horses there isn’t usually an option. An exception to that is Casper, the ranch patriarch, who just retired at age 30 in 2022.

“He was here when we bought the ranch; he’s not going anywhere,” says Meris. Their other retiring horses are taken to an equine adoption facility in Colorado that specializes in rehoming former guest ranch mounts through The Annie Project (see below).

“They work hard for us, so when they’re done here, we want them to go to a good home,” she adds. “We’ve taken at least two trips to this rescue because they find good places for them to live out their days.”

Bliss Creek Outfitters

A native of Dubois, Wyo., Rusty Sanderson grew up on a ranch and has been riding since age 5. He’s worked in the outfitting business since 1995, ran his own outfitter’s camp for a decade, and has owned Bliss Creek Outfitters since 2015. Based out of Dubois, he rides and hunts out of the Washakie Wilderness in the Shoshone National Forest.

“We cover from Dubois to Cody, Wyoming,” says Sanderson, who offers summer pack trips (June to September) and three 20-day guide schools (June 1 to August 31).

A pack trip with Bliss Creek Outfitters

Bliss Creek Outfitters offers pack trips and guide schools, and owns more mules than horses due to their ability to navigate rough trails. Photo courtesy Bloss Creek Outfitters

His current equine string consists of 14 mules and 10 horses, which include draft crosses, Quarter Horses, Morgans and Fox Trotters.

Riding in the rugged wilderness, Sanderson prefers mules.

“They’re smoother, travel at a better pace, and are better at navigating rough trails,” he says, adding that mules also maintain their weight better during the season.

The best mounts are about 15 hands tall, stout, and smooth-traveling. Good feet are essential because of the rocky terrain. Horses are shod all around.

Horses and mules need to be trained to be on a picket and tie on a high line, since both methods are commonly used.

Sanderson bought the majority of his stock at auctions in Wyoming and through friends.

“Prices really increased dramatically since Covid,” he says. “I used to be able to buy a good horse for $1,500, and that won’t touch one now. Good-quality horses and mules range from $7,000 to $20,000.”

For the first year after buying any horse or mule, he doesn’t put clients on them.

“I ride them myself [first],” he says. “If they do well under the guides, they will be used for clients the following year.”

When a horse or mule gets to an age where mountain work becomes too strenuous, Sanderson tries to sell them privately whenever possible.

Some outfitters board their horses or mules at large ranches for the off-season, but these operations typically only feed hay when it snows. Sanderson keeps his stock at home in Dubois, where they’re kept on smaller acreage, can be monitored more closely, and fed hay daily throughout the winter, even though this means going through 100 tons of hay every year.

“I’m picky about taking care of them,” he says. Sanderson notes that horses and mules are truly the backbone of his business.

This article about dude ranch horses appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Visit the Irish National Stud & Gardens https://www.horseillustrated.com/visit-the-irish-national-stud-gardens/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/visit-the-irish-national-stud-gardens/#respond Fri, 12 Apr 2024 12:00:59 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=928391 If you pack your bags for a riding holiday in Ireland, throw in a pair of sensible walking shoes for a day trip to the Irish National Stud & Gardens in County Kildare. Stunning stallions, living legends, and the Irish Racehorse Experience await you. For under 20 Euros per person, last summer four riding friends […]

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Young horses gallop in a field at the Irish National Stud

Photo courtesy Irish National Stud

If you pack your bags for a riding holiday in Ireland, throw in a pair of sensible walking shoes for a day trip to the Irish National Stud & Gardens in County Kildare. Stunning stallions, living legends, and the Irish Racehorse Experience await you.

For under 20 Euros per person, last summer four riding friends and I enjoyed the grounds of a working breeding farm and Japanese gardens, and also experienced racehorse ownership in a simulation in which we bought, trained and “rode” our charges to the finish line.

“There are two big things people visit specifically for: the horse—not one particular horse—but to get up close and personal with them, and the Japanese gardens,” says Ellen Mitchell of the Irish National Stud. She explains that the gardens are over 100 years old, and the farm is rich in heritage and horticultural history.

Japanese gardens featuring a red bridge

The Japanese gardens are a huge draw for visitors, and are over 100 years old. Photo courtesy Irish National Stud

Mares, Foals and Living Legends

“You could be looking at a future [Epsom] Derby or Grand National winner, or a very expensive lawn mower,” said Gavin, our tour guide, as we gazed at a verdant pasture of mares and adorable foals.

In the spring of 2022, an incredible 319 foals were born at the Irish National Stud. Horse owners trailer in their mares to foal at the maternity hospital, and every year 30 equine veterinary students from around the globe are there to assist the deliveries. A colostrum bank and nursery paddocks ensure all foals are nurtured attentively during their early days.

Visitors can get up close and personal with retired hurdlers (steeplechase racehorses) in the Living Legends pasture. We leaned along the fence watching Beef and Salmon, a fan favorite, whose name was reportedly inspired by a wedding menu choice. Then there was Faugheen, nicknamed “The Machine,” nibbling tender sprigs of green. Beef and Salmon won close to 1 million Euros during his career, while Faugheen was over the million mark.

Faugheen steeplechasing

Faugheen, nicknamed “The Machine,” earned over 1 million Euros as a hurdler and is now retired in the Living Legends pasture at the Irish National Stud. Photo courtesy Irish National Stud

The small herd captured my attention because I assumed they were all stallions turned out together. But I learned that male hurdlers are always geldings, since jump races are longer—up to 4 miles—and geldings can sustain focus for a longer timeframe than a stallion.

Irish National Stud Stallions

The premier stallion standing at the Irish National Stud is a 26-year-old dark bay Thoroughbred named Invincible Spirit. He’s sired more than 20 Group 1 winners, the highest level of Irish racing.

Irish National Stud stallion Invincible Spirit

Invincible Spirit has sired more than 20 Group 1 winners and still covers mares at a mature 26 years of age. Photo courtesy Irish National Stud

A statue carved out of an 18-ton block of limestone commemorates him. His sire, Green Desert, covered mares until age 28, and his grandsire, Danzig, until age 27. Needless to say, longevity runs in the family.

Seven other majestic stallions, each with his own logo and stall with skylights, call the Irish National Stud home. The original farm owner believed in astrology, recording each foal’s birth in conjunction with the night sky, determining whether to keep or sell the horses according to the stars.

Irish Racehorse Experience

The Irish Racehorse Experience is an attraction that recently won a prestigious Thea award, given out by the Themed Entertainment Association. We stepped into a white modern farmhouse building to experience the virtual thrill of owning a racehorse, and were each given headsets and a device about the size of an iPad.

An introductory film on a life-size, horse-shaped screen greeted us first, then we headed to an auction simulation and “bought” our own Irish racehorses. I fell for a gray filly named Cool Colonnade. After the auction, we selected the best training programs for our Thoroughbreds. We had to be budget-conscious, as we were allotted only a certain amount of pretend currency for training.

The device screen listed the types of programs we could get, each one with a different fee. For example, it was 200 for beach gallops to have the “sea wind and soft sand put a spring in the step.” For another 200, I opted for treadmill training (“your horse needs to stay the distance”). I paid 150 for pampering, because I would enjoy that myself, so why not splurge on my pretend horse?

Following the rigorous training, we designed our own jockey silks. Mine were lime and emerald green with a Charlie Brown V-shaped pattern on the torso. I had more fun designing my racing silks than was necessary for a fake race.

The culmination of our racehorse ownership at the Irish National Stud was a race. We mounted simulators and faced a screen showing the racetrack. My gray filly came in dead last. At least I had fun riding in my first and last horse race!

Before we wrapped up our day, we ambled through the vibrant Japanese gardens and took a few selfies. We left with snacks, dozens of photos, and fun-filled memories.

If travel plans lead you to Ireland, add a day to your itinerary, jaunt off to Kildare and tour the Irish National Stud & Gardens. It’s located just 45 minutes from Dublin and two hours from Waterford, Cork and Galway.

Visit irishnationalstud.ie to learn more about a visit to the Irish National Stud & Gardens.

This article about the Irish National Stud & Gardens appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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