horse travel Archives - Horse Illustrated Magazine https://www.horseillustrated.com/tag/horse-travel/ Thu, 24 Sep 2026 20:26:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 Horseback Riding in Algonquin Provincial Park https://www.horseillustrated.com/horseback-riding-in-algonquin-provincial-park/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/horseback-riding-in-algonquin-provincial-park/#respond Wed, 07 Oct 2026 11:00:00 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=952778 Spanning 4,741 square miles and situated in the south-central region of the province of Ontario, Canada, lies Algonquin Provincial Park. Established in 1893 as a national park for preserving wildlife, Algonquin became Ontario’s first provincial park in 1913. Named after the natives who inhabited the area, the Algonquin peoples, the park boasts over 800,000 visitors […]

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Spanning 4,741 square miles and situated in the south-central region of the province of Ontario, Canada, lies Algonquin Provincial Park. Established in 1893 as a national park for preserving wildlife, Algonquin became Ontario’s first provincial park in 1913. Named after the natives who inhabited the area, the Algonquin peoples, the park boasts over 800,000 visitors per year who come to enjoy the trails, lakes, and rivers. In 1999, with the opening of South Algonquin Trails horse facility, horseback riding was added to the already long list of activities available in the park such as biking, canoeing, kayaking, camping, and wildlife spotting.

Horseback riding in Algonquin Provincial Park.

Writer Shawn’s first fall ride in the park was with her friends Anne and Adam, who trailered their horses to South Algonquin Trails. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Algonquin Autumn Trails

My favorite time to visit the park is in the fall, and I can’t think of a better way to enjoy nature’s autumn display of colors than from the saddle.

Horseback riding in Algonquin Provincial Park in the fall.

There’s no better way to enjoy nature’s autumn display of colors than from the saddle. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

My first fall ride in the park was with my friends Anne and Adam, who trailered their horses to South Algonquin Trails and asked me to join them. Without a rideable horse at the time, a quick call secured me a lovely Appaloosa mare named Avery and a friendly and informative guide named Jocelyn.

It was one of those October days when everything just swings your way. The colors were peaking, it was not too hot, and the gentle breeze was just enough to keep the horses cool and the bugs away.

We lunched at the Gut, where the river narrows and creates rapids to a waterfall that cascades into a small lake. Our horses carried us through the well-maintained trails to the lookout for breathtaking views. We crossed bridges and creeks surrounded by the reds, oranges, and yellows of Mother Nature before returning to the ranch.

A view of a lake between a horse's ears.

The view of a lake from the saddle on Anne’s horse, Baloo. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Horse Camping

Over the years of running South Algonquin Trails, owner Tammy Donaldson noticed that a percentage of the trail riding guests had a horse at home. Realizing the market for horse-friendly accommodations, their first equestrian campsite was completed in 2018.

A high demand prompted the expansion to 13 horse-friendly camp sites, one with an electrical hookup, and three cabins available for rent. Each site is designed for easy maneuvering of large trailers and comes equipped with a fire pit, picnic table, covered stalls, shovel and wheelbarrow, its own outhouse, and a 100-gallon water tank for the horses filled by the staff as needed. Guides and extra trail horses are also available for a fee.

This past September, I was lucky enough to join a group of friends to experience horse camping at South Algonquin Trails firsthand. We booked two camp sites side by side, and with two living quarters trailers and a cabin rental, the six of us and our horses were well accommodated. Over four days of riding, we took to the trails to see rivers, lakes and lookouts followed by delicious, combined-effort meals while stories and songs were shared by the campfire.

A horse carrying its rider through the lake.

A full day in the saddle included a ride to a lake the horses could wade in. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Day by Day

Even with the pending forecast of rain, we geared up and headed out on day one. A slight drizzle did not deter us as our horses enjoyed the wide trail to Eco Lodge, a remote hidden gem on a small lake where visitors can hike or bike in to stay overnight and enjoy a piece of wilderness.

Eco Lodge in the fall.

Eco Lodge is a remote hidden gem on a small lake where visitors can hike or bike in to stay overnight and enjoy a piece of wilderness. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Patrons of the lodge who would like to experience the park from the saddle get picked up to ride some of South Algonquin Trails’ well-mannered horses, ride through the park, and return to the lodge on their mounts to enjoy a home-cooked meal.

Taking advantage of the nice weather for the next few days, we rode to the lookout for a picnic lunch overlooking the expansive and colorful views and enjoyed long canters on the flat, sandy trails. A full day in the saddle included a ride to a lake the horses could wade in—the perfect spot to swim with the horses on a hot summer’s day.

Horseback riding in Algonquin Provincial Park.

Anne and Ghost at Lookout Ridge. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Along with trail riding and horse camping, South Algonquin Trails offers horse camp for all ages; even grandparents are welcome. Rides are flexible, from one hour to full days, and their special overnight package called “Come Stay With Us” features three hours of horseback riding each day, accommodations, and meals, with an available upgrade meal package to enjoy at the nearby Nomi Spa.

Other fun events include liberty and obstacle clinics, poker rides, and a new Ride for the Cure hosted by the ranch this year. If you find yourself at Royal Agricultural Winter Fair in Toronto, look for their booth, where you can hop on one of their mechanical horse simulators used for training purposes.

South Algonquin Trails is a laid-back facility that caters to all types of horse enthusiasts, from those who have never touched a horse to those who want an adventurous experience from the saddle in one of Canada’s most prestigious provincial parks. It is well worth the trip!

For more information, visit South Algonquin Trails online at southalgonquintrails.com and Algonquin Eco Lodge at algonquinecolodge.com.

This article about horseback riding in Algonquin Provincial Park appeared in the September/October 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Visiting the Lipizzaners https://www.horseillustrated.com/visiting-the-lipizzaners/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/visiting-the-lipizzaners/#respond Fri, 17 Jul 2026 11:00:15 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=951771 If you’re dreaming of visiting the world-famous Lipizzaners, Hotel Maestoso in Slovenia is the ideal European escape for horse lovers. “He’s smart though, he learned with one eye,” my guide Brigitte says about the gray stallion. He turns his clouded eye toward us and pricks his ears forward in acknowledgement before losing interest. Lipizzaners may […]

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If you’re dreaming of visiting the world-famous Lipizzaners, Hotel Maestoso in Slovenia is the ideal European escape for horse lovers.

“He’s smart though, he learned with one eye,” my guide Brigitte says about the gray stallion. He turns his clouded eye toward us and pricks his ears forward in acknowledgement before losing interest.

A rearing Lipizzaner.

Photo by Mitja Bozic

Lipizzaners may be the stars of the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, Austria, but the breed’s origins lie across modern-day borders in Lipica, Slovenia. Over the centuries, the herd survived wars, occupations, and numerous exiles to Austria, Italy, Hungary, and Czechoslovakia.

When government funding declined, the Lipica Stud turned to tourism. In 1996, the stud was declared a protected cultural monument, and it’s now a premier destination for horse lovers of all ages.

The Hotel

The property’s recently renovated Hotel Maestoso, named after a historic stud line, is a large part of the wide-ranging appeal. Its futuristic style avoids appearing out-of-place by mirroring the farm’s uniform white fencing. A white membrane coats the structure, outdoor patios, and pools, and frames each room’s exterior.

The hotel’s futuristic renovation.

The hotel’s futuristic renovation avoids seeming out of place by mirroring the white pasture fencing on the property. Photo courtesy Hotel Maestoso

Inside, barn chic décor nods to the hotel’s location. Black steel, iron, wood accents, and barn door separators are combined with luxury hotel touches, such as bright white sheets and creative lights. The glass door out to the patio opens to unique views of green pastures and mountains in the distance.

A room at the hotel.

Guest rooms feature modern, barn-chic décor with black steel, iron, wood accents, and barn door separators. Photo courtesy Hotel Maestoso

Horse Activities

Tours of the property are available daily and cost 18 Euro (around $20 U.S. dollars), and you have all-day access to the stud as well as the Lipikum Museum and the carriage exhibition.

Tip: Visit in spring for newly born foals.

<<>>

A foal in the straw.

Visit in the spring if you love to see newborn foals. Photo by Gabriele Boisellle

Alternatively, for 25 Euro ($28), you can purchase a ticket to an official show, which also includes a tour and access to the property. Shows are held Tuesdays (June-September), Fridays (May-October), and Sundays (April-October) at 3 p.m.

The famous Lipizzaners performing.

Official show tickets are a great way to see the world-famous Lipizzaners performing. Photo by Mitja Bozic

Trail rides can only be scheduled for experienced riders. You’ll need to have a membership card from a national equestrian association and be at least 15 years old. Two-hour rides cost 90 Euro ($102) and three-hour rides are 120 Euro ($136).

Carriage rides are also available for up to seven guests in a single cart. Costs range from 35 to 65 Euro ($40 to $74), depending on the length of ride and size of carriage. All activities require a reservation at least three days in advance.

Running Lipizzaners

In the distance, 40 or so horses all line up behind a gate one paddock over. As soon as the gate opens, the herd thunders toward me and the other spectators. As they canter across the yard onto the maple tree-lined path to the large pastures beyond, bathed in morning light, they disappear as quickly as they appeared.

You, too, can watch the release and return of the horses every day at 9:30 a.m. and 5:30 p.m.

Running Lipizzaners.

You can watch the herd of 40 horses running at 9:30 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. each day as they come in and leave the stables. Photo by Gabriele Boisellle

For non-horse enthusiasts in the group, there is a casino, a golf course, and tennis courts on property.

Know Before You Go

Visiting the Lipizzaner stable.

Tours of the grounds are available daily and include all-day access to the stud. Photo by Jošt Gantar

The nearest airport is Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU) or Trieste Airport (TRS) across the border in Italy. From either location, a car rental is best. Lipica is a little over an hour from LJU and 20 minutes from TRS.

If renting a car internationally isn’t your cup of tea, you can take a bus (1.5 hours) or a train (a little under 2 hours) to Sezana, followed by a 10-minute taxi ride.

For more information on the Hotel Maestoso, visit lipica.org/en/new-hotel-maestoso.

This article about visiting the Lipizzaners appeared in the July/August 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A Visit to the CHIO Aachen  https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-visit-to-the-chio-aachen/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-visit-to-the-chio-aachen/#respond Wed, 06 May 2026 11:00:08 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=950503 Among the many horse shows around the world, the CHIO Aachen stands out for its complete celebration of horses and horse sport. The “Weltfest des Pferdesports,” or World Festival of Equestrian Sports, features world-class competition in dressage, show jumping, driving and eventing. Its trade fair offers both luxury and affordable brands, and sometimes great deals […]

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Among the many horse shows around the world, the CHIO Aachen stands out for its complete celebration of horses and horse sport. The “Weltfest des Pferdesports,” or World Festival of Equestrian Sports, features world-class competition in dressage, show jumping, driving and eventing. Its trade fair offers both luxury and affordable brands, and sometimes great deals on luxury brands. Outside of the arenas, spectators can find an extensive array of food vendors offering both traditional German fare and a variety of international cuisine, bars and nightlife, as well as entertainment for children. And in the main stadium there are numerous demonstrations of horse breeds, horses in costume, quadrilles, and other entertaining spectacles. 

The 2026 FEI World Championships will be hosted in Aachen from August 11–23, 2026, featuring six major equestrian disciplines: show jumping, dressage, para dressage, eventing, driving, and vaulting. This prestigious event, held at the historical Aachener Soers grounds, will showcase world-class sport, and will attract around 350,000 spectators. 

Show jumping at the CHIO Aachen.

Show jumping at the CHIO Aachen. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

In the summer of 2024, my horse-obsessed, then 15-year-old daughter Emily and I ventured to Aachen to experience the CHIO. We were already in Germany visiting my in-laws near Warendorf, and I had attended the CHIO a number of times as an equine journalist and wanted Emily to see behind the scenes at one of the greatest horse events in the world.  

We stayed at the home of longtime friends who live in Aachen and were incredibly gracious hosts. My friend Heidi lives upstairs from her mom, Gerlinde, who put us up in a spare bedroom and laid out a spread of fresh baked goods from the bakery, along with coffee, cheese and fruit every morning before we set off for the Soers. 

We arrived on Thursday afternoon, and with cameras and notebooks in hand, we parked our rental car, collected our media credentials and scoped out the media center. Emily was excited about the fact that Lindt, a major sponsor of the CHIO, provides an abundant supply of chocolate to keep members of the media happy. She was also starstruck when we met Esme Higgs, who was working on social media for the event. 

First we set off to explore the competition grounds. We briefly browsed the trade fair, had a little snack of pommes frites (delicious French fries), and then headed for the main stadium. One of the original structures at the Soers, the stadium was expanded for the World Equestrian Games in 2006. The atmosphere is awe-inspiring, and we had arrived in time so that we could photograph the Nations Cup from inside the stadium. Photographers must stay in the photo pens, and vying for a good spot in the pack of photographers can be a challenge during the more popular events. Once you’re in place, you’re also committed to staying in the pen for the duration of the evening, so it’s best to visit the restrooms and have a snack and a drink handy. 

Standing in the middle of the stadium, under the bright lights, with the stands filled with spectators, right in the middle of the action, is an unforgettable experience. Some of the world’s best horses and riders galloping and jumping huge fences, right up close, and the entire stadium vibrating with rhythmic applause of thousands of fans, is electrifying to the senses. Team Ireland won the Nations Cup and their celebratory mood reverberated through the grounds as spectators headed to the party tents to celebrate with beer and champagne. 

It was a late night, but we were back early the next morning to catch the eventing dressage, with eventing show jumping taking place later that afternoon. Once again we positioned ourselves in the stadium for some good photo opportunities, chatting with fellow eventing journalist Tilly Berendt, who was over from the U.K., between horses. After years of working in equestrian journalism, the chance to catch up with colleagues is always a highlight of attending major competitions. Photographers Shannon Brinkman, official photographer of the US Equestrian Team, and her daughter Roya, and New Zealander Libby Law were just a couple of the other friend/colleagues that I enjoyed seeing over the weekend. 

Victory gallop at the CHIO Aachen.

Victory gallop at the CHIO Aachen. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

I also wanted to show Emily around the city of Aachen, so we left shortly after the eventing wrapped up and found dinner at a restaurant in one of the cobbled alleys in the pedestrian zone near the Aachen Cathedral, a World Heritage site. Shops around the city decorate their windows with CHIO-themes and we enjoyed looking at these as we wandered around. We also stopped in the Nobis shop for a little bag of Aachener Printen, a sweet and spicy gingerbread-type cookie that is a local specialty. 

Saturday for us meant an early morning of Grand Prix dressage, followed by one of the highlights of the weekend, the eventing cross-country. We wandered around the course, watching some of the more interesting combinations including the main water complex, and nibbling from a bag of assorted Haribo gummy candies from one of the vendors on course. We finished up inside the stadium to capture the excitement of the top finishers clearing the final fence and crossing the finish line — a dramatic photo opportunity as this was the final phase of the event. 

The individual win went to Germany’s Julia Krajewski riding Nickel 21 and the cheers from the home crowd reverberated through the stadium as Krajewski took a victory canter. Great Britain won the team competition followed by the USA and Ireland, respectively.  

Of course we also had to have a wander through the trade fair, where many high-end brands of tack and equestrian apparel are available at special prices. Emily was on a mission to buy a certain popular brand of sun shirt, and I bought a few gifts for friends back home. We met up with Emily’s cousin Jana, who proudly showed off her new collection of matching saddle pads and ear bonnets.  

Saturday evening is a popular time for the general public to visit the CHIO to shop, partake in food and beverages, and socialize. The party atmosphere was fun, but we opted for a quiet dinner at a Chinese restaurant in downtown Aachen with our hosts. You can only handle so much excitement before you start to run out of steam, and we wanted to have a good night of sleep so that we could enjoy the final day of the CHIO. 

On Sunday morning we headed to the Deutsche Bank stadium for the final dressage competition. The Lindt Prize, the Grand Prix Freestyle, was won by the Queen of Aachen herself, Isabell Werth riding Wendy de Fontaine. It was Werth’s 15th time winning this class and the crowd was appropriately enthusiastic during her victory gallop.  

Isabell Werth salutes the crowd at the CHIO Aachen.

Isabell Werth salutes the crowd aboard Wendy de Fontaine after winning the Lindt Prize, the Grand Prix Freestyle. This marked Werth’s 15th time winning this class. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Following the elaborate prize-giving, we once again headed to the main stadium. The highlight of the final day is the Grand Prix Show Jumping competition, part of the Rolex Grand Slam that also includes Spruce Meadows, Geneva and ‘S-Hertogenbosch.  

The Grand Prix was not only one of the Majors of the Grand Slam, but a chance for some of the best riders in the world to fine-tune their performances in the lead-up to the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. The year marked a number of momentous anniversaries for the iconic equestrian venue, as they not only celebrated 100 years of history, but also 25 years with Rolex as the main sponsor.   

Starting in reverse order based on the results from the first round, American rider McLain Ward, who was tenth to go, jumped the first double clear of the class and put pressure on the remaining riders in the second round. Out of those riders, only Switzerland’s Martin Fuchs, Germany’s André Thieme – the individual 2021 FEI Jumping European Champion – and World No. 10 Richard Vogel progressed to the jump-off. 

Ward, the two-time Rolex Grand Slam of Show Jumping Major winner, jumped around the shortened course clear in a time of 41.02 seconds. Fuchs was almost two seconds faster, but it was not meant to be as the penultimate fence fell. The crowds exploded with cheers as Thieme then took the lead in a time of 39.77 seconds, with just one left to go. It looked as if the final competitor, Vogel, would claim his second Major as he crossed the line over one second faster than his fellow citizen, but heartbreakingly the final fence fell, handing the victory to Thieme. 

André Thieme celebrates the win.

André Thieme celebrates the win. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

The nail-biting competition was followed by the Farewell of Nations, when competitors representing their various countries and disciplines all come together in the main stadium for a gigantic farewell party. Every year the CHIO chooses a partner country and bases the theme of their festivities around that country’s culture. The 2024 partner country happened to be the USA, and the theme featured heavily in the opening ceremonies, which we watched on TV before our arrival at the show.  

The closing ceremonies feature all of the nations that participated in the competition, with participants from every sport taking part. Show jumpers, dressage horses, eventers, and even the four-in-hand driving competitors’ parade around the arena with their riders and drivers, with a flag bearer leading the way and competitors waving white handkerchiefs, a tradition that includes spectators, who wave back from the grandstands to the sounds of the German folk song “Muss I denn zum Städtele hinaus.” Another CHIO concluded, and Emily and I wandered around the quiet grounds one last time, stopping for a celebratory toast before heading home. Because shops in Germany are closed on Sundays, I asked one of the vendors if I could purchase a small potted flower to give to our hosts, and he kindly gave it to me with a smile.  

The crowd celebrates the Farewell of Nations.

The crowd celebrates the Farewell of Nations. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Because it was a late evening, we stayed over one more night and enjoyed one final wonderful breakfast from the local bakery, and had a short walk around the neighborhood. On the way back to the Warendorf area we stopped in Cologne to stretch our legs and took a short tour of the cathedral there. It was an exciting week and we were left happy to have enjoyed so much top equestrian sport and German culture. 

A Visitors’ Guide to the CHIO Achen

The CHIO Aachen is a huge destination event, and accommodations book quickly. An American friend who lives in Germany is planning to attend in the summer of 2026 and accommodations were already booked up months in advance. She was able to find an Airbnb in the Belgian countryside, driving distance from the Soers — the showgrounds where the CHIO is held.  

Purchase your tickets in advance. The really popular events sell out — yes, even dressage — and if there’s an event you really want to see, you’ll need to reserve tickets sooner than later.  

Wear comfortable clothing. People do tend to dress nicely for a day out at the CHIO, but you want to make sure that you are comfortable to walk long distances. Dressing in layers is also recommended — even summertime can be rainy and chilly, and while it’s fun to shop for new clothes in the extensive trade fair, it’s less fun to sit in the stands freezing and then spend a lot of money on a sweatshirt because it’s the first thing you can grab during a 15-minute break. Ask me how I know!  

Bring your appetite. The food offerings at the CHIO are extensive, and you can find everything from sushi and Thai stir fry to traditional German fare like currywurst, pretzels, pommes frites (French fries), and sandwiches. Alcohol flows freely in the evenings — be sure to return your glass to get a refund of the small deposit — and there are also plenty of non-alcoholic options. The riders tend to congregate at the Riders’ Bar on the ground floor of the grandstand near the gate to the main stadium. You’re also sure to spot a few familiar, famous equestrians strolling around the grounds.  

Horses have the right-of-way. While there is traffic control, be alert that pedestrians need to stop and wait for horses crossing at junctions of the horse paths and pedestrian walkways.  

Bring your spending money. The trade fair is not to be taken for granted: from apparel and tack to housewares and gift items, to luxury horse boxes and vehicles, the trade fair boasts something for everyone, on every budget. And be sure to grab a few souvenirs from the gift shop — you’ll really impress your friends at the barn when you show up wearing a shirt or baseball cap from Aachen. 

Pace yourself. With so much to see and do, you might be tempted to try to do it all. Better to pick a few special events and enjoy those, and give yourself time for the trade fair, food vendors, and just to stroll around and soak up the atmosphere. There are also a number of entertaining performances in the main stadium featuring different breeds, demonstrations of various horses, and costumed horses and riders performing purely for entertainment. 

This article about a visit to the CHIO Aachen is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Warendorf: A Dream Equestrian Destination https://www.horseillustrated.com/warendorf-equestrian-destination/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/warendorf-equestrian-destination/#respond Tue, 13 Jan 2026 12:00:01 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=948412 A few small towns around the world are recognized for their connection to the horse. Warendorf, a small town in the northwest of Germany, is one of the principal locations recognized by anyone involved in sport horses. With a long history of breeding and training horses, this inviting village offers much interest to any horse […]

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A few small towns around the world are recognized for their connection to the horse. Warendorf, a small town in the northwest of Germany, is one of the principal locations recognized by anyone involved in sport horses. With a long history of breeding and training horses, this inviting village offers much interest to any horse enthusiast.

This past summer, my 15-year-old daughter Emily and I visited Warendorf and spent a couple of days wandering around. My husband is from a small town about 15 km from there, and we’ve visited a few times.

This was our first visit since 2019, and Emily, now horse-obsessed, appreciated all that Warendorf had to offer in a new way. On previous visits, she was most excited about the excellent playgrounds in the park between downtown and the River Ems. This time, her eyes lit up with every equestrian encounter.

Westphalian State Stud

Our first destination was a tour of the Nordrhein-Westfälische Landgestüt (North Rhine Westphalian State Stud). I first visited here in my 20s, when I was working at a sales barn in Holland. A few other girls and I drove over for the Bundeschampionate, or Young Horse Championships, held at the nearby Olympic Training Center.

The State Stud is home to breeding stallions owned by the government and has housed generations of horses. Our tour happened to take place on the same day as the meeting of a Mercedes enthusiasts’ club, and the entire courtyard at the entrance was full of classic cars. There were some real beauties there, but we headed to the main gate to meet our group.

A horse statue next to a classic Mercedes.

Amber’s tour happened to take place on the same day as the meeting of a Mercedes enthusiasts’ club, and the entire courtyard at the entrance was full of classic cars. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

The tour was in German, which was a little easier for my daughter to understand since she has grown up speaking the language. My basic “Duolingo language app German” can get me through a lot of everyday touristy situations, but a lot of the information imparted on the tour was over my head.

Still, to some degree, the language of horses is universal. I understood the gist of it, and wandering around the stables is a treat whether you understand every word or not. Our tour included a look at the turnout paddocks, discussion about the interior and exterior of the stables, and a quick stop at the breeding shed.

A draft stallion being led.

The stud keeps an average stock of 65 warmblood and 25 draft stallions. Photo by Emily Heintzberger

We also walked around the Deutsches Reitschule, or the German Riding School, adjacent to the Stud on the same grounds, where young equestrians can work and study to become licensed professionals.

The Deutsches Reitschule, or German Riding School, in Warendorf.

Young equestrians can study to become licensed professionals at the Deutsches Reitschule, or German Riding School. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Olympic Training Center

We returned the next day for a proper look around the town. First, we headed just north of town to the Olympic Training Center and German Equestrian Federation headquarters.

The Olympic Training Center and German Equestrian Federation headquarters in Warendorf.

Just north of town is the Olympic Training Center and German Equestrian Federation headquarters. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

After parking the car, we wandered past a dressage lesson in a sand arena, grooms leading horses, and one impressive horse after another heading to training or turnout. We asked a groom if it was OK to walk around, and were assured that we could wander freely anywhere except in the stables themselves.

From there, we headed to the Equestrian Federation building and into the lobby, where a friendly gentleman at a front desk gave us some information pamphlets and suggested some interesting things for us to look at. This building housed a few mannequins wearing German team uniforms, cabinets of impressive trophies won by German teams at major competitions, and some fun vintage photos on the walls.

As suggested, our next destination was the hall where the show jumpers train, and we had a look inside. We also saw the area where the vaulters train, including a mechanical contraption for training without a horse. All of it was fascinating and incredibly well kept.

Downtown Warendorf

After we left, we drove up the road a bit just to take in the farmland, driving past one beautiful horse farm after another. But without a clear destination, we cut that short and headed for downtown Warendorf.

Downtown Warendorf, Germany.

Warendorf is a beautiful German town, perfect to enjoy while wandering around for a day. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

If you visit by car, there is an easy parking lot just over a bridge outside of the city center, not far from the State Stud. Park there and walk over the bridge, then follow the paving stones on the sidewalk reminiscent of the Hollywood stars—except they’re dedicated to various Olympic horses and riders that have represented Germany in Olympic competition.

On the left, about a block into town on the Emsstrasse, is a tourist information center. The ladies working there were friendly, spoke English, and were full of helpful advice about what to see and where to go around the town. We bought a few souvenirs here, and they gave us a free map.

As the weather was growing drizzly, we decided to pop into an equestrian boutique across the street called Funny Horses. Most of their high-end merchandise was geared toward children, but we had fun browsing through the riding apparel, pony tack, and gift items.

An equestrian store called Funny Horses in downtown Warendorf.

A boutique called Funny Horses featured high-end riding apparel for children, pony tack, and gift items. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Walking through the city center, you’ll pass the village hall and ample outdoor seating for various restaurants. Through the square, we followed the street to the right, then continued straight up Freckenhorster Strasse (street).

We stopped at a little confectionery shop to buy a couple of Warendorfer pferdeapple chocolates—little balls of chocolate made to look like balls of horse manure, but obviously much better tasting!

Like many towns around the world, Warendorf has a collection of statues painted by local artists. Naturally, the statues are all horses, and it’s fun to keep an eye out for them as you stroll around. There is one in particular, attached to the side of a building above the Tchibo store, that is pretty eye catching.

Near this statue, we settled on doener kebabs for lunch—falafel for Emily and meat and vegetables in a pita bread for me, then browsed a few gift shops and then went to a large department store that mainly sold high-end clothing. I’m a bargain shopper, so we headed to the sales racks and managed to find some jeans for my long-legged daughter (it’s much easier to find clothing for tall people in this region!) as well as a stylish top and blazer for her to wear to the CHIO Aachen the following week.

Warendorf is a walled city, and we chose to stay mainly within the city walls. After wandering around for another hour or so window shopping and admiring the architecture, we stopped by an ice cream shop and enjoyed a spaghetti eis—ice cream pressed through a machine that makes it look like spaghetti, overtop a dollop of whipped cream, and then covered with strawberry sauce and sprinkled with white chocolate shavings.

Our mission to sample all that Warendorf has to offer accomplished, we decided to call it a day. Fortunately, with family nearby, we will be back. There is plenty to see and do in Warendorf, whether it’s your first visit or you’re coming back for more.

A Note About Riding in Warendorf

The Warendorfer Riding Route includes 200 km of riding trails that are part of the greater Munsterland Region, which has over 1,000 km of riding trails. While it is possible to arrange a riding holiday in the area, we had a busy schedule with family events.

I had assumed we could take Emily to one of the many local riding stables for a lesson, but due to insurance reasons, most of these stables are “clubs,” meaning lessons are only available to members. Fortunately, Emily’s cousin Jana has a lovely sport horse gelding that she keeps at a small private stable, and Emily was able to take him for a ride.

Emily riding her cousin’s horse through the water in the German countryside.

Although most local riding stables require a club membership, Emily was able to go for a ride on her cousin’s horse. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Jana and I walked along with Emily as she rode down a lane, across a field, and to a pond in the forest, where she cantered near the water’s edge. We then followed one of these trails until the bugs started to become too bothersome and a storm cloud loomed on the horizon, so we headed for home.

This article about the equestrian destination of Warendorf appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A One-Horse Open Sleigh at Vista Verde Ranch https://www.horseillustrated.com/one-horse-open-sleigh-vista-verde-ranch/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/one-horse-open-sleigh-vista-verde-ranch/#respond Fri, 12 Dec 2025 12:00:49 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=946852 When a blanket of snow covers the lush green landscape surrounding Vista Verde Ranch, that is when Georgie gets to work. The feisty Haflinger is at his best when pulling a candy cane-red sleigh across snowy fields around the Clark, Colo., guest ranch. The pony pulling a one-horse open sleigh is straight out of a […]

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When a blanket of snow covers the lush green landscape surrounding Vista Verde Ranch, that is when Georgie gets to work. The feisty Haflinger is at his best when pulling a candy cane-red sleigh across snowy fields around the Clark, Colo., guest ranch.

A one-horse open sleigh ride with Georgie at Vista Verde Ranch.

The Vista Verde sleigh can accommodate four passengers and a driver. The route is groomed for ease of travel. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

The pony pulling a one-horse open sleigh is straight out of a timeless Christmas song, and guests line up to take their turn.

“I think that watching people experience this sleigh ride is exciting,” says River Hofman, who is the Vista Verde Ranch herd health coordinator and drives Georgie and the sleigh. “I grew up thinking a one-horse open sleigh was part of a song, but then I got here and realized it’s a real thing! I think it’s great to see kids, especially around Christmas, excited to jump on. Everyone tells him he’s good, and he is so happy to hear that.”

River Hofman attends to harnessing Georgie.

River Hofman attends to harnessing Georgie. She works as the herd health coordinator and learned to drive horses on the Belgian team before taking the sleigh’s reins. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

With quintessential Haflinger looks—fawn colored and adorned with an abundant flaxen mane and forelock—Georgie is straight out of a fairytale. When hitched to the sleigh and decked out in a holiday ribbon, the pony is more than memorable.

A Day’s Work

At Vista Verde Ranch, which is a stone’s throw from Steamboat Springs and nestled between towering Lost Ranger Peak to the east and Farwell Mountain to the northwest, winter visitors revel in the ranch’s many cold weather activities, enjoy evenings by the massive stone fireplace in the main lodge, and are treated to chef-made masterpieces at each meal. Many come to enjoy equine activities like trail riding and, of course, sleigh rides.

“We got Georgie in the spring of 2021 from a sale in Denver,” says Hofman. “He started as a riding horse for the summer, but he was trained to ride and drive. In the wintertime, he mostly does the sleigh. He [started] driving the winter of 2021-2022, and he seems to really like it. He gets excited to work but settles in later. Right out of the barn, though, he gets excited.”

As Georgie is groomed and hitched to the sleigh, his excitement emanates and is displayed through his ever-perky ears. He nods his head, tossing his fluffy forelock, which elicits smiles from those waiting to ride.

Georgie prepared to lead his one-horse open sleigh at Vista Verde Ranch.

Georgie’s long forelock and eager attitude make him a joy to witness as he pulls the sleigh. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

The sleigh is exactly as visitors imagine, and even comes with blankets to complete the picturesque ride.

“We’ve done a one-horse open sleigh for more than a decade,” says Hofman. “We’ve had the sleigh for a long time, and we just did renovations in the off season, redoing the wood paneling and fiberglass.”

Georgie prances from the barn to the sleigh, which can be a slick trek on ice. But Georgie’s winter shoes keep him from sliding.

“Georgie gets regular horseshoes, but the farrier adds Borium [tungsten carbide] that is melted on and creates traction points so he can get going on the trail,” says Hofman. “It helps him keep moving forward. Under the shoe is a ‘popper pad’ made of hard plastic. It covers the bottom of his hoof and keeps snow from getting stuck in there.”

Horse shoes with Borium studs to help grip the snow.

Though shod similarly to other horses, Georgie’s shoes have Borium studs to help grip the snow and plastic poppers over his frog that keep ice from accumulating. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

Once hitched, the ride of dreams gets sliding across the snow.

Good Boy, Georgie

Whether a day ride or early evening, the sleigh slides easily over the snow as Georgie follows a groomed track by the main lodge and out into the Colorado wilderness. The bells on his harness jingle along, and his footsteps crunch through the winder wonderland. The only voice to break the pristine silence is Hofman’s.

“Good job, Georgie,” she says as she navigates a curve. “He runs off ‘good boys.’ A thousand percent, people love him. The hair, his size, it all makes him approachable. He likes attention and likes to say hi to everybody. He is so cute—how can you resist?”

Watching Georgie pull the sleigh, he is the picture of confidence. Yet, the Haflinger isn’t as bold under saddle. He also aligns himself with larger horses in the pasture to help him out of the consequences of his antics, Hofman says.

“Out in the pasture, he runs around and tries to mess with people,” she says. “His friends right now are big horses. He hangs out with the Belgians that look like him, but bigger.”

Horses in a snowy field at Vista Verde Ranch.

Georgie (center) aligns himself with larger horses in the herd, especially the Belgians (left), who pull the Vista Verde Ranch feed wagon. Photo by Kate Bradley Byars

Much like the fairytale rides he gives visitors three or four days a week, Georgie is memorable. Visitors to the guest ranch often indicate their desire for a sleigh ride before even arriving. If anything, Georgie and the one-horse sleigh are a reminder that magic exists, especially when there are horses involved.

If a memorable winter adventure is up your alley, find a location to match your needs through Dude Ranchers Association, where Vista Verde Guest Ranch is listed. To ensure you meet Georgie, visit vistaverde.com.

This article appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A Horseback Riding Holiday in Ireland https://www.horseillustrated.com/horseback-riding-holiday-in-ireland/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/horseback-riding-holiday-in-ireland/#respond Mon, 27 Oct 2025 11:00:03 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=946354 Equestrian travel is always at the top of my bucket list. I’d already been on several horseback riding holidays in Ireland, and knew that any chance to ride there shouldn’t be missed. So when the opportunity arose to head to the Emerald Isle, I jumped at the opportunity. Castle Leslie With just a week available, […]

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Equestrian travel is always at the top of my bucket list. I’d already been on several horseback riding holidays in Ireland, and knew that any chance to ride there shouldn’t be missed. So when the opportunity arose to head to the Emerald Isle, I jumped at the opportunity.

Horseback riding on holiday in Ireland.

Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Castle Leslie

With just a week available, I had to make the most out of every day. After spending a day recovering from jetlag and catching up with friends, it was off to Castle Leslie in County Monaghan. Located on the border of Northern Ireland, this was a perfect couple of days of horse-themed luxury.

I rented a car for the week, and while I adjusted pretty quickly to driving on the left-hand side of the road and shifting gears with my left hand, train service is available for anyone who doesn’t want the added stress of navigating the country roads by car.

The castle has an illustrious family history, and offers several options for accommodations. If you really want to make a splash, you can stay in the castle proper, or if you’d prefer more peace and quiet, the Old Stable Mews are located far out back on the property.

Castle Leslie.

Castle Leslie. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Most people interested in riding will be content to stay in The Lodge, which is connected to the stables and features the upscale Snaffles restaurant, drinks at Connor’s Pub, and a spa for relaxing after time in the saddle.

I arranged the trip to Castle Leslie through Unicorn Trails Horse Riding Holidays Worldwide, and the reservation process was easy and well managed. Every detail of the trip was smoothly planned in advance, and checking in at The Lodge was an easy process. The accommodations were well equipped and exceedingly comfortable. It was a huge highlight that the small balcony overlooked the stable yard.

My kids were heading back to school that week, but airfare from New Jersey to Ireland drops significantly in September: my flight was about $400, compared to over $1,000 in August.

My non-horsey husband agreed to deal with the back-to-school week so I could enjoy an adventure with my old friend, George Barry, who I’ve known since we were teenagers, when he and his sister and my brother competed in the International Tetrathlon exchange through Pony Club back in the late 1990s.

We’d traveled together before, and he’s a competent rider, and since riding is a high-risk sport—and so is driving a car in Ireland—I felt a little safer traveling with a companion.

Cross-Country Jumping

After settling in, we stretched our legs with a wander around the grounds and the castle. That evening we enjoyed an elegant six-course dinner at Snaffles. The food was delicious, featuring mainly locally sourced, fresh ingredients, and the service was impeccable. After dinner, we wandered out the door to the stables and admired the facilities and horses before retiring for the evening.

The full Irish breakfast the next morning was equally as impressive as dinner, if not more so. There was also an impressive array of fresh fruit, pastries and other breakfast items that left me wishing my appetite was larger. But with our horses waiting, I reined in my appetite. After changing into boots and breeches, we headed out to the stables.

The horses were fit and well cared for, and the borrowed helmets and cross-country vests were in good condition and up to the latest safety standards. I rode a gorgeous big gray mare named Blueberry, while George was on a stout gelding named Arnie. I’m 5’11”, and Blueberry took up my leg nicely. There were horses of all shapes and sizes, for riders of all shapes, sizes and levels of experience. A questionnaire in advance made sure that we met our ideal match.

Our instructor, Steven Carty, performed a brief assessment before we set off across the countryside. Steven was lovely and we chatted about the horses, the lifestyle working at the stables, and the history of the estate. If we’d had another night, I would have enjoyed sitting down with him for a pint at Connor’s Pub.

The jumps were on the small side, but since we were both out of practice, it was perfect. The cross-country course is extensive, but since we only had one day, we kept things simple, and the horses clearly knew the drill.

Next, we made our way to the corner of the lake, where we could jump in and out from a small bank or down a series of steps. Splashing through the lake with the castle in the background felt like a scene from a fairytale.

Horseback riding on a cross-country course in Ireland.

The cross-country course included a series of small steps down to the water. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

A walk in the woods that afternoon left me wishing we had more time to explore the estate. It was a peaceful way to wrap up our short visit, as the grounds and gardens are just as beautiful as the buildings.

The Wild Atlantic Way

I would have happily spent a week at the castle living the life of luxury, but our next stop would bring plenty of fun adventures. (In fact, if I were to do the trip again, I’d arrange to head to the castle after the beach).

A couple hours’ drive west to County Mayo brought us to the small coastal town of Westport, a scenic village set on the calm, clear waters of Clew Bay. The bay is home to a number of tiny islands—“one for every day of the year”—and set in the shadow of Croagh Patrick, the mountain where Saint Patrick is said to have driven the snakes from Ireland.

This segment of the trip was organized by Ireland Equestrian Tours and operated by Go Trekking Ireland. Laura Lamb of Ireland Equestrian Tours sent a number of brochures over with information about the various options, and the Wild Atlantic Way seemed a good fit for a bit of adventure and beach riding after our cross-country schooling up in County Monaghan.

We stayed at George’s uncle John’s house on the way, and got an early start to Westport so that we could be out riding early, before the tide came in. We met the proprietor of the Westport Woods Hotel, Michael Lennon, who took us to his stables to select our horses for a beach ride. I chose a tall, athletic and solidly built chestnut hunter type named Coady, while George rode a gray named Naymar.

Beach Ride to Remember

We followed the horsebox to a spot where we unloaded and mounted up. Four of us set off across the bay. Our guide, Joanne Mason, was on a smaller cob who was fairly submerged in some of the deeper water crossings, so I was glad to be on a long-legged sport horse!

Horseback riding on a beach in Ireland on holiday.

Amber and George had a blast galloping Coady and Naymar down the beach. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

Eventually we ended up on Bertra Strand, where we had a good gallop on the beach and then rode out on a grassy headland overlooking a couple of large islands. After clattering over a stony section, we came to another beach where we rode out in the waves, before crossing back over to Bertra Strand for another good gallop in the shadow of Croagh Patrick. By the time we wrapped up our antics, the tide had come in, so we picked our way around the bay and back to the horsebox.

After riding, we stopped at a local pub for a truly Irish experience: drinking a pint in front of a peat fire. While harvesting peat is banned in much of the country, some locals are still allowed to harvest a limited amount using ancient methods, and the particular smoky atmosphere in the pub evoked a bygone era.

A village on the Emerald Isle.

If you go, make sure to get out and explore nearby towns, restaurants and pubs for a taste of the local flair. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

At Michael’s suggestion, we spent the afternoon at Ballinrobe Races, about 45 minutes south. It was the final meet of the season and there was a good crowd out for the racing. This was a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry and enjoy the excitement of placing a few small bets. I braved the bookies and bet a couple of Euros on two winning horses, bringing home around 40 Euros and a slightly inflated sense of my ability to judge a winning horse.

The Ballinrobe Races.

Ballinrobe Races provided a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

That evening, we settled on the Westway Pub in downtown Westport for a bite to eat. The food was fresh and simple and the atmosphere smart but casual. I’d hoped to stop in to listen to the traditional music at another pub up the street, but with another day of riding planned, opted for an early bedtime instead.

Surfing Beach

The next morning the horses were hauled to Carrownisky Strand, a popular surfing beach a half-hour or so down the road. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and a little surreal unloading the horses in a sandy parking area populated mainly by surfers and families taking their kids to the beach for the day.

We made a bit of a spectacle, galloping on the wide, sandy beach, which is the home to an annual horse race. The horses were eager to go and we were all too happy to oblige, with sea spray splashing in our grinning faces.

To cool the horses out, we hacked to the nearby Bunlahinch Clapper Footbridge, the largest complete clapper bridge in Ireland, at 50 meters long. Its 37 arches are constructed in a primitive style, each made of flat limestone slabs, and likely dates to the 1840s.

On the way back, we walked past cow pastures and bogs where sheep were grazing on the verdant grass, later taking another lively canter down the beach. The horses were very fit and had plenty in the tank to give another good run.

Mountain Ride

The original plan was to do the mountain ride the following day, but with stormy weather in the forecast, I opted to join a group going out that afternoon. After a short rest at the hotel, I headed back to the stables with Michael and an American woman and her daughter who had just arrived on holiday. (George had taken an unplanned dismount into the saltwater on our beach ride and wasn’t keen to go on a three-hour ride in soaking wet clothing, so he stayed behind and had a stroll around the town).

I was on Coady once again, and we rode directly from the stables and enjoyed a long, leisurely hack to the base of the mountain. Other than an easy canter up a long gravel track, this ride maintained a leisurely pace and was a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, the mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay, following narrow lanes winding over hills and through little valleys past cottages and farms.

Horseback riding in Ireland on holiday.

Riders enjoyed a long, leisurely ride to the base of the mountain, a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay. Photo by Amber Heintzberger

That evening, we walked from the hotel to the Quay for dinner at the Towers Pub, a little more upscale than the previous evening’s location. Following Joanne’s recommendation, we followed dinner with pink gin cocktails garnished with strawberries at the Coast Hotel across the street. It was charming and refreshing and a nice accompaniment to the live music featured that evening.

All too soon, it was time to head to the airport, return the trusty rental car and fly home.

◆ Amber’s Packing Tips and List for an Irish Riding Holiday

This article about a horseback riding holiday in Ireland appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A Trail Ride in Panama https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-trail-ride-in-panama/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/a-trail-ride-in-panama/#respond Mon, 11 Aug 2025 11:00:18 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=944590 The Unicorn Trails ride in the mountainous jungle of Santa Fe, Panama, is one that dreams are made of. Galloping up mountains, swimming with horses, and riding to a waterfall to cool off in are just a few of the highlights. Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one […]

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The Unicorn Trails ride in the mountainous jungle of Santa Fe, Panama, is one that dreams are made of. Galloping up mountains, swimming with horses, and riding to a waterfall to cool off in are just a few of the highlights.

Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one tops the charts for diverse scenery, unique culture, and local hospitality.

Panama City

My friend, Ali, and I spend a night in Panama City to enjoy a traditional Panamanian meal, including yucca and plantains, in the brightly decorated Sabroso restaurant on the Amador causeway. Colorfully lit buses drive the road beside the park where families walk enjoying the city lights reflecting in the water.

Lunch in El Valle, a town constructed in the middle of an extinct volcano, breaks up our five-hour drive to Santa Fe. We arrive just in time for dinner at Hotel Anachoreo and join our friends, Dawn and Tracy, for homemade fish soup, with fresh herbs from the hotels incredible garden.

Our host, Lizzie, a fit-looking young woman originally from Zimbabwe, arrives to introduce herself and let us know the plan for the morning.

“My farm is on the river, which isn’t always passable because of the rain, so the horses will be transported by road—the long way around—to a friend’s farm, where we’ll begin,” she says.

While handing out cushy saddle seat covers and saddle bags, she reminds us to pack our bathing suits and towels.

Meeting the Horses

After a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, crepes and bacon, we hop in Lizzie’s Jeep to a small corral where her helper, Jose, is just finishing tacking up the horses.

Ali is given Pali, a small palomino mare; Dawn is presented with Luca, a tall brown-and-white Paint Horse; and Tracy has a cute blue roan named Chombin.

Jose and Lizzie adjust the stirrups and I mount up on Capitan, a gaited chestnut Criollo. The western saddle is extremely comfortable.

“They are locally made,” Lizzy tells me. Some of the horses are also bitless, which is always a pleasant surprise.

Lizzie leads the way on a stallion named Calypso.

“He hasn’t been ridden in a while,” she tells us. “We’ll see what happens.”

Jose takes up the rear on a mule named Mr. Red, ponying Little Dude, a small gray Criollo gelding. Kids come out to greet us.

Calypso, eager to run uphill, takes the lead on a wonderful gallop up the mountain road. Resting at Cerro Tute, historically known as a rebel hideout, we tie the horses to a fence for a snack and enjoy the views of the small town of Santa Fe, population approximately 3,500.

Petroglyphs and Swimming

After crossing the peak, the pine trees turn into cactus plants and the dirt road turns to clay—from forest to desert just like that! We zig-zag through an array of round rocks displaying petroglyphs (see pg. 72). The wind cools us from the hot sun, but it’s so strong that it blows the sun brim off my helmet. Even Ali’s special brim with Velcro and hooks can’t fight it.

We cross a large river, tie the horses to trees and untack them.

“Time for a swim,” Lizzy announces.

Swimming aboard horses on a trail ride in Panama.

Lizzie on Calypso and Ali on Pali cool off by taking a dip as the climate goes from forest to desert. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Ali takes Pali right in, deep enough to swim. I hop on Capitan and he is eager to cool off. The current is strong, but the horses plunge through. It’s so much fun I can feel my smile growing from ear to ear the deeper I get. The water is just right—refreshing but not too cold.

Leaving the horses behind for Jose to take home, we head into town for a delightful late lunch at a local restaurant and have some yummy ginger chicken. We stop at a store where I purchase a wide-brim hat for under my helmet, and the others find shoes for swimming.

A vivid rainbow can be seen from our hotel, where we enjoy fresh cheese from the cheese shop before dinner.

A rainbow over the jungle.

At the Hotel Anachoreo, a spectacular rainbow lights up the sky. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

A Steep Climb to the Cows

A local farmer, Wilson, has invited us to explore his land. We enjoy coffee and homemade muffins in his barn the next morning before heading out. This is the first time Lizzie has taken him up on his offer, and he seems excited to have us.

A trail ride in Panama.

Narrow, rocky paths climb up the mountainside to Wilson’s cattle farm. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Ali has decided to give the mule, Mr. Red, a try, and he turns out to be a good choice for the narrow, rocky paths clinging to the hillside. We dismount and follow Wilson to a hidden cave, complete with bats and human bones.

Steep climbs that lead to incredible vistas and long canters on the sandy footing are a treat. After a rest in the shade, Jose helps Wilson round up his cows, and we help herd them back to the ranch where a homemade picnic awaits us.

Dawn’s Paint Horse, Luca, is the perfect mount to practice roping cows while Wilson and Jose brand calves. What a day!

Brahman cattle.

Cattle farmer Wilson invites the group to explore his land, as he and Jose brand calves. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Tropical Forest Waterfall

Dawn’s sister, Danialle, has finally arrived (delayed due to passport issues), and she joins us for the rest of the week. Just when you think it can’t get any better, Lizzie keeps throwing surprises at us.

A trail ride in Panama.

Danialle rides up the freshly graded dirt road in the National Forest. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

We begin to explore the tropical forests of the Santa Fe National Park, a 290-square mile conservation area. Surrounded by hanging vines and tropical plants, a very steep climb takes us to a stunning waterfall, where we can jump in to cool off and swim around in its pools.

The newly purchased shoes for swimming come in handy. The current is strong in parts, so we have to be careful. At the end of a great ride we cross the river, dismount and enjoy a wonderful riverside BBQ, finished off with Ali’s special grilled pineapple.

Going for a swim at the base of a waterfall.

In the tropical forest, a steep climb takes the riders to a stunning waterfall, where they cool off with a swim. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

A freshly graded red dirt road on the side of a mountain allows for long gallops. At the top, we rest and take in the views, trying to spot our hotel below.

Organic Farm & Hanging Bridge

Deep in the forest, we ride to an organic farm for lunch, of which 90 percent of the ingredients are home-grown. The owner gives us a demonstration of how coffee is made. Everyone we meet is super friendly and accommodating.

The clouds continue to linger in the next valley, and we can feel the mist in the air, but the rain subsides for the entire week. Everyone has been happy with their mounts. Nothing seems to faze them: not the horses running in pastures next to us, cows coming to check us out, trucks on the road, or barking dogs.

They are put to the test when we have to cross a long, skinny hanging bridge hovering above the river. We dismount and walk them across. I am shaking in my boots, but Capitan doesn’t flinch. These horses are amazing—even at an old telephone booth, Dawn coaxes Luca right up to grab the receiver.

Crossing a hanging bridge on a trail ride in Panama.

All of the horses are calm while being led across the hanging bridge above the river bed. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Goodbyes & The Canopy Tower

Our last ride finishes at Lizzie’s farm, where we untack the horses and help Jose bathe them and turn them out. It is with sweet sorrow that we say goodbye to the horses, the farm, Wilson, Lizzie and Jose. The experience has been incredibly unique.

Ali and I finish the trip with a breakfast tour of The Canopy Tower, just outside of Panama City, where we get to watch various tropical birds and monkeys at the top of the rain forest. A nature walk rewards us with an anteater sighting, a first for me.

An anteater on a nature walk.

Just outside Panama City, the Canopy Tower provides views of the rain forest wildlife. A nature walk turns up an anteater sighting. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Panama has never been a destination at the top of my list, but Unicorn Trails Santa Fe Jungle Ride with Horseback Panama touched my heart. The horses, the people, the locally grown food, and the stunning scenery definitely won me over.

For more on the Santa Fe Jungle Ride, visit here.

Other Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ Top 10 International Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch
◆ Riding Through Sicily
◆ Riding Camargue Horses in France

This article about a trail ride in Panama appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Half Moon Resort: Swim with Adopted Horses in Jamaica https://www.horseillustrated.com/half-moon-resort-swim-with-adopted-horses-in-jamaica/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/half-moon-resort-swim-with-adopted-horses-in-jamaica/#respond Fri, 16 May 2025 11:00:15 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=941656 Swim with adopted horses, the Jamaican way, at Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort. Errol stood squarely between us and the undulating turquoise sea. “I need you to listen to me,” he said. “People who know how to ride never listen to this part, and they always mess it up.” His sternness was softened by a […]

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Swim with adopted horses, the Jamaican way, at Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort.

Horses swimming at Half Moon Bay Resort.

Photo courtesy Half Moon Bay Resort

Errol stood squarely between us and the undulating turquoise sea.

“I need you to listen to me,” he said. “People who know how to ride never listen to this part, and they always mess it up.” His sternness was softened by a twinkle in his eyes.

My friend Beth and I looked at one another and grinned before returning our full attention to our guide, who explained how we would ride our horses into the water and get ourselves into position for an “only in Jamaica” experience: floating behind our mounts’ powerful hind ends while they swam, towing us with their tails.

Even for a pair of lifelong equestrians with a penchant for travel, this adventure was a first.

Half Moon Resort’s Commitment to Rescue

Beth and I met more than a decade ago in Colorado as volunteers for a racehorse rehoming organization. In the years since, life took us to opposite ends of the country, making in-person visits hard to come by. It made sense that our first reunion after years of separation, the stresses of Covid, and our own personal stories of grief would center around horses.

Stacey and her friend Beth arrive on the beach.

Stacey and her friend Beth arrive on the beach.

It was a perfect surprise to arrive at Half Moon Resort’s elegant stables to find that 13 of the program’s 23 mounts are adopted horses in different stages of rehabilitation.

There’s Timmy, the failed polo pony with trust issues. Precious, a sweet off-track Thoroughbred. Ebony, a 25-year-old pony who was near death when Half Moon’s Equestrian Director Trina Delisser rescued her from a roadside pony-ride operation eight years ago.

“She wasn’t supposed to live six months, but here she is,” says Delisser.

Delisser has been running Half Moon’s equestrian program for 37 years. Raised in Kingston, Jamaica, she grew up riding whenever she could as the daughter of an international polo player.

She came to Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort when it became clear that continuing her passion would require turning it into a career. And while she has competed in polo and showjumping, she clearly loves giving horses a second chance.

Under Delisser, life at Half Moon’s Equestrian Centre is flexible for the horses. She has the skills and commitment needed to give a horse like Timmy the attention and mental rehab he needs.

Older horses like Ebony and those that are intermittently sore benefit from the opportunity to swim (with or without guests, depending on their needs). And those in good mental and physical health get a fun job.

Swimming with Horses

After touring the airy white barns and greeting the dogs, donkeys, and Gene the goat, our group of three guests and two guides mounted up and began the walk to the beach. I rode Zayne, a lanky gray rescue who sauntered happily along behind our guide Errol and his mount Coltrane.

Minutes later, we traded tree-lined pavement for sugary white sand, where we dismounted and readied ourselves for the main event: the swim!

Once the horses were untacked and the humans stripped down to swimwear, we climbed on bareback. I now rode Coltrane while Errol rode Zayne (since the gray became a natural leader in the water) and marched into the sea.   

As Errol led us toward swimming depths, he belted out Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds.” The crystal clear water grew deeper, and the horses began the distinctive rumble that indicates they were starting to swim.

“Drop your reins!” Errol shouted over the noise, and suddenly, we were weightless. I tangled my fingers in Coltrane’s mane and leaned forward, letting my legs floating behind me as we swam into the rolling waves.

Swimming on horseback at Half Moon Resort in Jamaica.

Errol leads the group into the sea.

Suddenly, I heard Errol’s voice again. “To the tail!” he shouted, and I gently pushed myself toward Coltrane’s chestnut tail.

As we swam in sweeping circles, I held onto Coltrane for guidance, but the sea kept me afloat, and somehow, there was minimal resistance. I turned on my side and found Beth. We were both laughing the way we probably did the first time we cantered. I kept rotating onto my back, to look at the cotton-ball clouds. Then I spun onto my stomach to take in the strange vision of horse ears held just above ocean.

As we turned toward the shore one last time, we let the waves push us onto our horses’ backs. My heart sank. The ride was over. But as I squinted at the palm-lined beach, the postcard water, my dear friend, and the shine of a wet equine neck, I took a deep breath of gratitude.

For at least a moment, it felt like Errol (and Bob Marley) were right. Everything would be alright.

Opportunities for Different Levels of Experience

Beyond the Jamaican magic of swimming with horses, Half Moon Equestrian Centre offers a range of experiences suitable for riders and non-riders:

◆ Private dressage, jumping, or polo lessons are available for beginner to advanced riders over 10 years old.

◆ Inexperienced and rusty riders 6 and older may opt for a leisurely horseback “Sand Stroll” to the beach with a bit of a dip in water (but no swimming) or a mini lesson in the arena followed by a ride around the property.

◆ Kids 6 and under can spend their time learning to interact with the array of animals that call the Equestrian Centre home, including donkeys, goats, and of course, ponies!

◆ Adults looking for some quality horse time out of the saddle can sign up for a “Positive Empowerment” groundwork session.

An underwater view of a horse swimming.

Beautiful clear blue waters and swimming horses make a bucket-list combination.

If you’re ready to get away and relax while admiring turquoise waters around horses, this could be your perfect destination.

Learn more and book your stay at halfmoon.com.

This article about Half Moon Resort appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch: Get Away From It All https://www.horseillustrated.com/the-hideout-lodge-guest-ranch/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/the-hideout-lodge-guest-ranch/#respond Mon, 12 May 2025 11:00:30 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=941419 A basket of snacks, a personalized welcome note, and a bottle of red wine greeted me as I opened my cabin door at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch, nestled in the Shell Valley at the foot of the Big Horn Mountains, an hour east of Cody, Wyo. After a swim in the pool and […]

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A basket of snacks, a personalized welcome note, and a bottle of red wine greeted me as I opened my cabin door at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch, nestled in the Shell Valley at the foot of the Big Horn Mountains, an hour east of Cody, Wyo.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

After a swim in the pool and a soak in the hot tub, I joined guests in the main lodge for their final social gathering and outdoor barbecue. The stories of their week’s riding adventures were abundant, and everyone seemed eager to return, one on her sixth visit. I spent the next few days learning the secret to The Hideout’s success.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch History

In 1995, David Flitner and Paula De Cabooter-Flitner started construction of the guest ranch, building the main lodge, cabins, arena, and barn on a prime riverfront location of the property, offering unobstructed views of the Big Horn Mountains.

Riding a gray horse on the trails at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Initially named after a local historical ranch, Trapper Creek Guest Ranch, it was rebranded as Hideout Adventures, Inc. Peter De Cabooter, Paula’s nephew, arrived from Belgium in 2006 to help, and a year later was joined by his wife Marijn and their twin boys.

The reins were eventually handed over to Peter, and The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch began its growth.

Year-Round Focus

Taking over full ownership in 2017, Peter began the transition from a seasonal three or four months per year operation into a more sustainable year-round business. His corporate experience is key to The Hideout’s success today.

“In order to keep a reliable crew and create a culture, we needed to offer more year-round jobs for our staff,” he says.

Trail riding at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Peter follows the “3 C Culture” of character, conduct and competence.

“One can train for competence, but not for character and conduct,” he explains. “And this is even harder in a seasonal environment.”

Having the right crew focusing on the principles of their authentic hospitality—taking care of its people, guests, and horses—is of the utmost importance, as is their branded Authentic Horsemanship.

Authentic Horsemanship

When Marijn first arrived at the ranch, she was far from a cowgirl. Mileage in the saddle and exposure to many horse trainers, including Yvet Blokesch of Featherlite Academy in the Netherlands and Parelli trainers Farrah Green and Amy Bowers, Marijn gained well-rounded horsemanship skills.

Marijn was introduced to liberty work by Kirsten Brein, trainee of Lorenzo the Flying Frenchman, and now shares her knowledge with interested guests. From various training methods, The Hideout shaped their own branded Authentic Horsemanship based on a trusting relationship through communication, respect and understanding.

Liberty work with a gray horse.

Marijn was introduced to liberty work by Kirsten Brein, trainee of Lorenzo the Flying Frenchman, and now shares her knowledge with interested guests. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

Peter describes it as “An ethical, respectful, safe, enjoyable and professional approach, getting the best out of both horse and rider.”

The Horses and Trails

I could sense the Authentic Horsemanship methodology from the saddle while on one of their many horses. With over 650,000 acres to explore and elevations ranging from 4,200 to 13,100 feet, there are a broad range of climates and plenty of biodiversity within riding distance of the ranch.

Creek crossing on horseback at The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

We chose the cooler canyon ride to escape the August heat. I would be riding with Peter and Marijn’s son Victor, as well as Nina Reuter, a German woman who was originally a Hideout guest, but who left a corporate life in New York to join the Hideout crew.

We crossed rushing rivers surrounded by lush greenery in the red rock canyons, cantered on sandy footing, and galloped past the red Needle Rock towering above us. A short trailer ride brought us to the nearby bentonite clay-painted hills.

Riders gallop their horses with a backdrop of red rock formations.

Photo by Shawn Hamilton

My mount, a palomino Quarter Horse named Sheridan, was a true gem. Being well tuned in neck reining, there was minimal rein contact needed, and gaits changed simply from my seat.

“What a wonderful treat for a trail horse,” I said to Nina.

“Yes,” she replied. “The key is to train the guests how to ride our horses.”

Orientation and Safety Talk

All guests, from beginner to advanced riders, participate in an extensive safety orientation at the start of the week, then mount up for an ability assessment.

A horsemanship clinic and orientation in an indoor arena.

Guests of all riding abilities participate in an extensive safety orientation at the start of the week. Photo by Shawn Hamilton

I watched guests ranging in ages from 11 to 75 walk in a circle and stop, trot along the rail, and depending on their self-proclaimed ability, perform a few canter strides. Instructed to use only their seat for balance, some experienced difficulties, but Marijn reassured improvement by week’s end. It was a safe yet revealing way to split into groups before hitting the trails.

Returning later with big grins, everyone had fun and felt comfortable. Catering rides to their guests’ preference on length, pace, and terrain, the wranglers could now make informed decisions on who was capable of what.

The Whole Package

In my short visit, I concluded that what brings guests back repeatedly to The Hideout is their attention to detail, consistency, and authenticity. Their hospitality and horsemanship benefits everyone, especially the horses, creating a perfect balance.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch in Shell, Wyo., ticks all the boxes necessary for a comfortable adventure on safe horses in spectacularly diverse scenery. I applaud them!

Learn more about a visit to The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch at thehideout.com.

This article appeared in the April 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Wendy Hofstee: Riding Around the World with Unicorn Trails https://www.horseillustrated.com/wendy-hofstee-riding-around-the-world-with-unicorn-trails/ https://www.horseillustrated.com/wendy-hofstee-riding-around-the-world-with-unicorn-trails/#respond Wed, 26 Feb 2025 12:00:11 +0000 https://www.horseillustrated.com/?p=939341 Wendy Hofstee has a very thick passport. Three hundred thirty-eight trips to 156 countries—and all of those trips were on horseback. Hofstee is the founder and owner of Unicorn Trails, a company that organizes and leads horseback riding vacations around the world. The trips can last from a few days to several weeks. Born in […]

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Wendy Hofstee has a very thick passport. Three hundred thirty-eight trips to 156 countries—and all of those trips were on horseback.

Wendy Hofstee on a ride in Costa Rica.

Wendy Hofstee on a ride in Costa Rica.

Hofstee is the founder and owner of Unicorn Trails, a company that organizes and leads horseback riding vacations around the world. The trips can last from a few days to several weeks.

Born in Holland and raised in South Africa, she moved to Britain after qualifying as a veterinarian. A dedicated traveler, she would work for six months, then travel for six months. Whenever possible, she’d find a way to work horses into the itinerary.

Seed of an Idea

The idea of turning her passion into a business came in 1999 while on a lengthy riding trek in the Amazon with friends. People often asked about her adventures and were interested in trying something similar.

Using her South African connections, Hofstee started arranging riding safaris. Using her dining room table as an office, she soon organized trips to South Africa, Botswana, and Madagascar. She now has a network of nearly 200 employees, partners, and guides.

“I’m very passionate about getting as many people as possible on the back of a horse and exploring,” says Hofstee. “My philosophy is that if you can persuade a significant proportion of the population to strap two sticks on their feet and throw themselves down a snowy hill, why can’t you persuade them to get on the back of a horse?”

Cultural Exploration

One of her main goals is learning about the culture of other countries. Horses, she says, are the ideal starting point.

“You find horse cultures in the most unexpected places,” says Hofstee. “Who would have thought that the highlands of Ethiopia had a horse culture? When you speak the language of the horse, you’ve got a common language. You can communicate.

“I remember riding into a little village in the Amazon, and people immediately came out and started asking questions about our horses—how old they were, what did we pay for them, where did we get the saddles, all sorts of things,” she recalls. “We always try to ride the local breeds and use the tack and local habits. Those things usually develop that way for a reason, and understanding that is one reason we travel on horseback.”

Gentle Riding

The notion of a riding vacation can be simultaneously exciting and intimidating.  Galloping across the savannah with a herd of zebras sounds thrilling, but also terrifying for people who are nervous on strange horses and in strange surroundings. Hofstee stresses that her trips are designed with that concern in mind.

“Most rides are taken at a walk,” she says. “The vast majority are for people who want to have a nice ride on a well-schooled, well-trained horse. Maybe we have a few trots and a gentle canter, but we don’t want anyone to feel unsafe or uncertain. I understand that. I don’t bounce anymore when I fall, either. Our horses know their jobs and take care of their riders. Someone who is a novice and spends a day or so learning how to handle a horse is often a better rider for these trips than an experienced rider who wants to direct the horse all the time.”

Out for Adventure

Hofstee does keep a list of riders who want more adventure. She’ll often invite them on scouting trips—initial rides to see if a new destination will fit her needs. Even if the trip doesn’t work out as hoped, the group adapts to the situation and has a unique adventure.

Even with planned trips, the unexpected can happen, like the time a herd of elephants casually strolled through their campsite one night. The group had inadvertently stopped on a trail regularly used by the local herd.

“The horses were on a picket line and panicked, of course,” Hofstee recalls. “We spent some time tracking them down and getting them back.”

Her catalog of trips covers the world and is constantly changing.

“It depends, in part, on our partners,” she says. “Some guides do many trips, while others specialize in one or two specific experiences.  We’re subjected to changes as the world changes. One of my favorite trips was to Lake Baikal in Russia, but with the political situation, it’s not safe to go there now.”

Her other favorite is Iceland.

Personal Touch

At a time when many tour companies use impersonal websites, descriptions, and reviews, Unicorn Trails works one on one with customers. About 40 percent of her customers are return clients.

“People get very addicted to exploring the world in this way,” says Hofstee. “A lot of people buy five or six trips a year. Our highly trained people match [customers] up with a trip individually. We make sure that people get the experience they want.”

Galloping through the Okavango Delta in Botswana.

A Unicorn Trails ride splashes through the Okavango Delta in Botswana.

Hofstee wants the world to appreciate the magic of discovering the world on horseback.

“There’s a quote that says, ‘Wherever man has left his footprint in the long ascent from barbarism to civilization, we find the hoofprints of a horse beside it.’”

This article about Wendy Hofstee of Unicorn Trails appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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