Castle Leslie

With just a week available, I had to make the most out of every day. After spending a day recovering from jetlag and catching up with friends, it was off to Castle Leslie in County Monaghan. Located on the border of Northern Ireland, this was a perfect couple of days of horse-themed luxury.

I rented a car for the week, and while I adjusted pretty quickly to driving on the left-hand side of the road and shifting gears with my left hand, train service is available for anyone who doesn’t want the added stress of navigating the country roads by car.

The castle has an illustrious family history, and offers several options for accommodations. If you really want to make a splash, you can stay in the castle proper, or if you’d prefer more peace and quiet, the Old Stable Mews are located far out back on the property.

Most people interested in riding will be content to stay in The Lodge, which is connected to the stables and features the upscale Snaffles restaurant, drinks at Connor’s Pub, and a spa for relaxing after time in the saddle.

I arranged the trip to Castle Leslie through Unicorn Trails Horse Riding Holidays Worldwide, and the reservation process was easy and well managed. Every detail of the trip was smoothly planned in advance, and checking in at The Lodge was an easy process. The accommodations were well equipped and exceedingly comfortable. It was a huge highlight that the small balcony overlooked the stable yard.

My kids were heading back to school that week, but airfare from New Jersey to Ireland drops significantly in September: my flight was about $400, compared to over $1,000 in August.

My non-horsey husband agreed to deal with the back-to-school week so I could enjoy an adventure with my old friend, George Barry, who I’ve known since we were teenagers, when he and his sister and my brother competed in the International Tetrathlon exchange through Pony Club back in the late 1990s.

We’d traveled together before, and he’s a competent rider, and since riding is a high-risk sport—and so is driving a car in Ireland—I felt a little safer traveling with a companion.

Cross-Country Jumping

After settling in, we stretched our legs with a wander around the grounds and the castle. That evening we enjoyed an elegant six-course dinner at Snaffles. The food was delicious, featuring mainly locally sourced, fresh ingredients, and the service was impeccable. After dinner, we wandered out the door to the stables and admired the facilities and horses before retiring for the evening.

The full Irish breakfast the next morning was equally as impressive as dinner, if not more so. There was also an impressive array of fresh fruit, pastries and other breakfast items that left me wishing my appetite was larger. But with our horses waiting, I reined in my appetite. After changing into boots and breeches, we headed out to the stables.

The horses were fit and well cared for, and the borrowed helmets and cross-country vests were in good condition and up to the latest safety standards. I rode a gorgeous big gray mare named Blueberry, while George was on a stout gelding named Arnie. I’m 5’11”, and Blueberry took up my leg nicely. There were horses of all shapes and sizes, for riders of all shapes, sizes and levels of experience. A questionnaire in advance made sure that we met our ideal match.

Our instructor, Steven Carty, performed a brief assessment before we set off across the countryside. Steven was lovely and we chatted about the horses, the lifestyle working at the stables, and the history of the estate. If we’d had another night, I would have enjoyed sitting down with him for a pint at Connor’s Pub.

The jumps were on the small side, but since we were both out of practice, it was perfect. The cross-country course is extensive, but since we only had one day, we kept things simple, and the horses clearly knew the drill.

Next, we made our way to the corner of the lake, where we could jump in and out from a small bank or down a series of steps. Splashing through the lake with the castle in the background felt like a scene from a fairytale.

A walk in the woods that afternoon left me wishing we had more time to explore the estate. It was a peaceful way to wrap up our short visit, as the grounds and gardens are just as beautiful as the buildings.

The Wild Atlantic Way

I would have happily spent a week at the castle living the life of luxury, but our next stop would bring plenty of fun adventures. (In fact, if I were to do the trip again, I’d arrange to head to the castle after the beach).

A couple hours’ drive west to County Mayo brought us to the small coastal town of Westport, a scenic village set on the calm, clear waters of Clew Bay. The bay is home to a number of tiny islands—“one for every day of the year”—and set in the shadow of Croagh Patrick, the mountain where Saint Patrick is said to have driven the snakes from Ireland.

This segment of the trip was organized by Ireland Equestrian Tours and operated by Go Trekking Ireland. Laura Lamb of Ireland Equestrian Tours sent a number of brochures over with information about the various options, and the Wild Atlantic Way seemed a good fit for a bit of adventure and beach riding after our cross-country schooling up in County Monaghan.

We stayed at George’s uncle John’s house on the way, and got an early start to Westport so that we could be out riding early, before the tide came in. We met the proprietor of the Westport Woods Hotel, Michael Lennon, who took us to his stables to select our horses for a beach ride. I chose a tall, athletic and solidly built chestnut hunter type named Coady, while George rode a gray named Naymar.

Beach Ride to Remember

We followed the horsebox to a spot where we unloaded and mounted up. Four of us set off across the bay. Our guide, Joanne Mason, was on a smaller cob who was fairly submerged in some of the deeper water crossings, so I was glad to be on a long-legged sport horse!

Eventually we ended up on Bertra Strand, where we had a good gallop on the beach and then rode out on a grassy headland overlooking a couple of large islands. After clattering over a stony section, we came to another beach where we rode out in the waves, before crossing back over to Bertra Strand for another good gallop in the shadow of Croagh Patrick. By the time we wrapped up our antics, the tide had come in, so we picked our way around the bay and back to the horsebox.

After riding, we stopped at a local pub for a truly Irish experience: drinking a pint in front of a peat fire. While harvesting peat is banned in much of the country, some locals are still allowed to harvest a limited amount using ancient methods, and the particular smoky atmosphere in the pub evoked a bygone era.

At Michael’s suggestion, we spent the afternoon at Ballinrobe Races, about 45 minutes south. It was the final meet of the season and there was a good crowd out for the racing. This was a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry and enjoy the excitement of placing a few small bets. I braved the bookies and bet a couple of Euros on two winning horses, bringing home around 40 Euros and a slightly inflated sense of my ability to judge a winning horse.

That evening, we settled on the Westway Pub in downtown Westport for a bite to eat. The food was fresh and simple and the atmosphere smart but casual. I’d hoped to stop in to listen to the traditional music at another pub up the street, but with another day of riding planned, opted for an early bedtime instead.

Surfing Beach

The next morning the horses were hauled to Carrownisky Strand, a popular surfing beach a half-hour or so down the road. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and a little surreal unloading the horses in a sandy parking area populated mainly by surfers and families taking their kids to the beach for the day.

We made a bit of a spectacle, galloping on the wide, sandy beach, which is the home to an annual horse race. The horses were eager to go and we were all too happy to oblige, with sea spray splashing in our grinning faces.

To cool the horses out, we hacked to the nearby Bunlahinch Clapper Footbridge, the largest complete clapper bridge in Ireland, at 50 meters long. Its 37 arches are constructed in a primitive style, each made of flat limestone slabs, and likely dates to the 1840s.

On the way back, we walked past cow pastures and bogs where sheep were grazing on the verdant grass, later taking another lively canter down the beach. The horses were very fit and had plenty in the tank to give another good run.

Mountain Ride

The original plan was to do the mountain ride the following day, but with stormy weather in the forecast, I opted to join a group going out that afternoon. After a short rest at the hotel, I headed back to the stables with Michael and an American woman and her daughter who had just arrived on holiday. (George had taken an unplanned dismount into the saltwater on our beach ride and wasn’t keen to go on a three-hour ride in soaking wet clothing, so he stayed behind and had a stroll around the town).

I was on Coady once again, and we rode directly from the stables and enjoyed a long, leisurely hack to the base of the mountain. Other than an easy canter up a long gravel track, this ride maintained a leisurely pace and was a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, the mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay, following narrow lanes winding over hills and through little valleys past cottages and farms.

That evening, we walked from the hotel to the Quay for dinner at the Towers Pub, a little more upscale than the previous evening’s location. Following Joanne’s recommendation, we followed dinner with pink gin cocktails garnished with strawberries at the Coast Hotel across the street. It was charming and refreshing and a nice accompaniment to the live music featured that evening.

All too soon, it was time to head to the airport, return the trusty rental car and fly home.

◆ Amber’s Packing Tips and List for an Irish Riding Holiday

This article about a horseback riding holiday in Ireland appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one tops the charts for diverse scenery, unique culture, and local hospitality.

Panama City

My friend, Ali, and I spend a night in Panama City to enjoy a traditional Panamanian meal, including yucca and plantains, in the brightly decorated Sabroso restaurant on the Amador causeway. Colorfully lit buses drive the road beside the park where families walk enjoying the city lights reflecting in the water.

Lunch in El Valle, a town constructed in the middle of an extinct volcano, breaks up our five-hour drive to Santa Fe. We arrive just in time for dinner at Hotel Anachoreo and join our friends, Dawn and Tracy, for homemade fish soup, with fresh herbs from the hotels incredible garden.

Our host, Lizzie, a fit-looking young woman originally from Zimbabwe, arrives to introduce herself and let us know the plan for the morning.

“My farm is on the river, which isn’t always passable because of the rain, so the horses will be transported by road—the long way around—to a friend’s farm, where we’ll begin,” she says.

While handing out cushy saddle seat covers and saddle bags, she reminds us to pack our bathing suits and towels.

Meeting the Horses

After a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, crepes and bacon, we hop in Lizzie’s Jeep to a small corral where her helper, Jose, is just finishing tacking up the horses.

Ali is given Pali, a small palomino mare; Dawn is presented with Luca, a tall brown-and-white Paint Horse; and Tracy has a cute blue roan named Chombin.

Jose and Lizzie adjust the stirrups and I mount up on Capitan, a gaited chestnut Criollo. The western saddle is extremely comfortable.

“They are locally made,” Lizzy tells me. Some of the horses are also bitless, which is always a pleasant surprise.

Lizzie leads the way on a stallion named Calypso.

“He hasn’t been ridden in a while,” she tells us. “We’ll see what happens.”

Jose takes up the rear on a mule named Mr. Red, ponying Little Dude, a small gray Criollo gelding. Kids come out to greet us.

Calypso, eager to run uphill, takes the lead on a wonderful gallop up the mountain road. Resting at Cerro Tute, historically known as a rebel hideout, we tie the horses to a fence for a snack and enjoy the views of the small town of Santa Fe, population approximately 3,500.

Petroglyphs and Swimming

After crossing the peak, the pine trees turn into cactus plants and the dirt road turns to clay—from forest to desert just like that! We zig-zag through an array of round rocks displaying petroglyphs (see pg. 72). The wind cools us from the hot sun, but it’s so strong that it blows the sun brim off my helmet. Even Ali’s special brim with Velcro and hooks can’t fight it.

We cross a large river, tie the horses to trees and untack them.

“Time for a swim,” Lizzy announces.

Ali takes Pali right in, deep enough to swim. I hop on Capitan and he is eager to cool off. The current is strong, but the horses plunge through. It’s so much fun I can feel my smile growing from ear to ear the deeper I get. The water is just right—refreshing but not too cold.

Leaving the horses behind for Jose to take home, we head into town for a delightful late lunch at a local restaurant and have some yummy ginger chicken. We stop at a store where I purchase a wide-brim hat for under my helmet, and the others find shoes for swimming.

A vivid rainbow can be seen from our hotel, where we enjoy fresh cheese from the cheese shop before dinner.

A Steep Climb to the Cows

A local farmer, Wilson, has invited us to explore his land. We enjoy coffee and homemade muffins in his barn the next morning before heading out. This is the first time Lizzie has taken him up on his offer, and he seems excited to have us.

Ali has decided to give the mule, Mr. Red, a try, and he turns out to be a good choice for the narrow, rocky paths clinging to the hillside. We dismount and follow Wilson to a hidden cave, complete with bats and human bones.

Steep climbs that lead to incredible vistas and long canters on the sandy footing are a treat. After a rest in the shade, Jose helps Wilson round up his cows, and we help herd them back to the ranch where a homemade picnic awaits us.

Dawn’s Paint Horse, Luca, is the perfect mount to practice roping cows while Wilson and Jose brand calves. What a day!

Tropical Forest Waterfall

Dawn’s sister, Danialle, has finally arrived (delayed due to passport issues), and she joins us for the rest of the week. Just when you think it can’t get any better, Lizzie keeps throwing surprises at us.

We begin to explore the tropical forests of the Santa Fe National Park, a 290-square mile conservation area. Surrounded by hanging vines and tropical plants, a very steep climb takes us to a stunning waterfall, where we can jump in to cool off and swim around in its pools.

The newly purchased shoes for swimming come in handy. The current is strong in parts, so we have to be careful. At the end of a great ride we cross the river, dismount and enjoy a wonderful riverside BBQ, finished off with Ali’s special grilled pineapple.

A freshly graded red dirt road on the side of a mountain allows for long gallops. At the top, we rest and take in the views, trying to spot our hotel below.

Organic Farm & Hanging Bridge

Deep in the forest, we ride to an organic farm for lunch, of which 90 percent of the ingredients are home-grown. The owner gives us a demonstration of how coffee is made. Everyone we meet is super friendly and accommodating.

The clouds continue to linger in the next valley, and we can feel the mist in the air, but the rain subsides for the entire week. Everyone has been happy with their mounts. Nothing seems to faze them: not the horses running in pastures next to us, cows coming to check us out, trucks on the road, or barking dogs.

They are put to the test when we have to cross a long, skinny hanging bridge hovering above the river. We dismount and walk them across. I am shaking in my boots, but Capitan doesn’t flinch. These horses are amazing—even at an old telephone booth, Dawn coaxes Luca right up to grab the receiver.

Goodbyes & The Canopy Tower

Our last ride finishes at Lizzie’s farm, where we untack the horses and help Jose bathe them and turn them out. It is with sweet sorrow that we say goodbye to the horses, the farm, Wilson, Lizzie and Jose. The experience has been incredibly unique.

Ali and I finish the trip with a breakfast tour of The Canopy Tower, just outside of Panama City, where we get to watch various tropical birds and monkeys at the top of the rain forest. A nature walk rewards us with an anteater sighting, a first for me.

Panama has never been a destination at the top of my list, but Unicorn Trails Santa Fe Jungle Ride with Horseback Panama touched my heart. The horses, the people, the locally grown food, and the stunning scenery definitely won me over.

For more on the Santa Fe Jungle Ride, visit here.

Other Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ Top 10 International Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch
◆ Riding Through Sicily
◆ Riding Camargue Horses in France

This article about a trail ride in Panama appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post A Trail Ride in Panama appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Hofstee is the founder and owner of Unicorn Trails, a company that organizes and leads horseback riding vacations around the world. The trips can last from a few days to several weeks.

Born in Holland and raised in South Africa, she moved to Britain after qualifying as a veterinarian. A dedicated traveler, she would work for six months, then travel for six months. Whenever possible, she’d find a way to work horses into the itinerary.

Seed of an Idea

The idea of turning her passion into a business came in 1999 while on a lengthy riding trek in the Amazon with friends. People often asked about her adventures and were interested in trying something similar.

Using her South African connections, Hofstee started arranging riding safaris. Using her dining room table as an office, she soon organized trips to South Africa, Botswana, and Madagascar. She now has a network of nearly 200 employees, partners, and guides.

“I’m very passionate about getting as many people as possible on the back of a horse and exploring,” says Hofstee. “My philosophy is that if you can persuade a significant proportion of the population to strap two sticks on their feet and throw themselves down a snowy hill, why can’t you persuade them to get on the back of a horse?”

Cultural Exploration

One of her main goals is learning about the culture of other countries. Horses, she says, are the ideal starting point.

“You find horse cultures in the most unexpected places,” says Hofstee. “Who would have thought that the highlands of Ethiopia had a horse culture? When you speak the language of the horse, you’ve got a common language. You can communicate.

“I remember riding into a little village in the Amazon, and people immediately came out and started asking questions about our horses—how old they were, what did we pay for them, where did we get the saddles, all sorts of things,” she recalls. “We always try to ride the local breeds and use the tack and local habits. Those things usually develop that way for a reason, and understanding that is one reason we travel on horseback.”

Gentle Riding

The notion of a riding vacation can be simultaneously exciting and intimidating.  Galloping across the savannah with a herd of zebras sounds thrilling, but also terrifying for people who are nervous on strange horses and in strange surroundings. Hofstee stresses that her trips are designed with that concern in mind.

“Most rides are taken at a walk,” she says. “The vast majority are for people who want to have a nice ride on a well-schooled, well-trained horse. Maybe we have a few trots and a gentle canter, but we don’t want anyone to feel unsafe or uncertain. I understand that. I don’t bounce anymore when I fall, either. Our horses know their jobs and take care of their riders. Someone who is a novice and spends a day or so learning how to handle a horse is often a better rider for these trips than an experienced rider who wants to direct the horse all the time.”

Out for Adventure

Hofstee does keep a list of riders who want more adventure. She’ll often invite them on scouting trips—initial rides to see if a new destination will fit her needs. Even if the trip doesn’t work out as hoped, the group adapts to the situation and has a unique adventure.

Even with planned trips, the unexpected can happen, like the time a herd of elephants casually strolled through their campsite one night. The group had inadvertently stopped on a trail regularly used by the local herd.

“The horses were on a picket line and panicked, of course,” Hofstee recalls. “We spent some time tracking them down and getting them back.”

Her catalog of trips covers the world and is constantly changing.

“It depends, in part, on our partners,” she says. “Some guides do many trips, while others specialize in one or two specific experiences.  We’re subjected to changes as the world changes. One of my favorite trips was to Lake Baikal in Russia, but with the political situation, it’s not safe to go there now.”

Her other favorite is Iceland.

Personal Touch

At a time when many tour companies use impersonal websites, descriptions, and reviews, Unicorn Trails works one on one with customers. About 40 percent of her customers are return clients.

“People get very addicted to exploring the world in this way,” says Hofstee. “A lot of people buy five or six trips a year. Our highly trained people match [customers] up with a trip individually. We make sure that people get the experience they want.”

Hofstee wants the world to appreciate the magic of discovering the world on horseback.

“There’s a quote that says, ‘Wherever man has left his footprint in the long ascent from barbarism to civilization, we find the hoofprints of a horse beside it.’”

This article about Wendy Hofstee of Unicorn Trails appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Gobi Gallop

Just 12 years ago, however, Veloo had never been astride a horse. She tried it for the first time at age 50 when she and her husband, Chelvan Veloo, first moved to Mongolia.

“I was already learning the language,” says Julie. “I realized if I was going to understand this culture and history, I was going to have to sit on a horse. I thought, ‘If these kids can do it, how hard can it be?’ Twenty-however-many times of falling off later—it can be hard! But I was determined to ride.”

Her persistence paid off, and by 2013, she and a group of six friends rode 707 kilometers for fun across the Gobi Desert over nine days, in what officially became known as the inaugural Gobi Gallop.

The idea of a making it a fundraiser in subsequent years added purpose to it, with international riders participating and raising extra money for the Veloo Foundation, averaging roughly $75,000 each year.

Specifically, the Veloos’ Children of the Peak recipient charity aims to stop survival garbage dump-scavenging before it becomes generational. Partnering with M. Batsaikhan (Baagii) and B. Sarantuya (Saraa) of Horse Trek Mongolia, they created and implemented it together.

Blue Wolf Totem Expedition

The 10 years of success with the Gobi Gallop developed into a more ambitious adventure: the cross-Mongolia, three-month Blue Wolf Totem Expedition ride.

“I tried to get everything in: the pre-history, the Silk Road, Genghis Khan, the eagle hunters, the reindeer people, deer stones, and burial sites,” says Julie. “Archaeology lives on the land here. And you can still go out and see it. Anywhere else on the planet [that] would be fenced off.”

The 17 riders, ranging in age from 27 to 70, were accompanied by some 20 support crew and a herd of around 40 horses, which were often contracted from local herdsmen. Riders averaged 50 km per day (31 miles) with a day off every 10 days, and rode through the Gobi desert, the steppes, the Altai mountains, glaciers and enormous valleys, visiting with all five Mongolian tribes.

Full of Surprises

For Australian endurance and dressage rider Duncan McLaughlin, everything fell into place as though the ride was meant to be.

“I was intrigued by the long ride in pretty country,” he says. “I was always interested in different aspects of horsemanship, so I thought it would be really interesting to go to the home of horsemanship to learn more about the horse culture there.

“Once the Mongolian horses get going down the trail, they’re really steady, so sensible, and hyper-aware of their surroundings, even though they seem super quiet.”

As for the people, McLaughlin was surprised.

“It’s a very showy culture,” he says. “You think they’re going to be subdued because you think of Genghis Khan and that stern, very self-contained face. But they’re very flamboyant people. And that big blue sky. It’s phenomenal.”

Self-Discovery

Endurance and trail rider and horse trainer Jill McKenzie of Georgia (USA) felt the pull to visit Mongolia when she saw a fellow endurance rider astride a reindeer in Mongolia. Her research revealed the Veloo Foundation and the Gobi Gallop.

She applied and qualified to ride in that event, but when the Blue Wolf Totem Expedition was announced, she knew she had to participate.

“I wanted to grow and stretch myself, both in my riding and personally,” says McKenzie.

Visiting with the reindeer people was one of her most spectacular memories.

“Riding up to the reindeer people was magical,” she recalls. “We felt like we were on top of the world because it was so high up. You’d see this beautiful, colorful tepee surrounded by holly bushes and wild oak, and then all around you were these beautiful white reindeer. I did get to ride one. It was amazing!

“I learned a lot about myself,” McKenzie continues. “In times of trials, I have a lot of discipline.”

For many riders, one big challenging issue was chafing from riding in the traditional Mongolian saddles.

“We came up with ‘Chafe for Charity,’” she laughs. “I’ve done hard things, but I’m tougher than I thought. And the camaraderie was amazing. I felt a kinship at different times with different people. The 17 of us are bonded for life because of what we went through together.”

McKenzie gained great respect for the Mongolian horse.

“I would consider this the capstone to my horse career,” she says.

Escape to Mongolia

Endurance rider Heidi Telstad of British Columbia, Canada, had yearned to get back to Mongolia ever since winning the Mongol Derby in 2016.

“The Mongol Derby is such an exciting event, but definitely fast-paced, so I felt like I missed out on the Mongolian culture and beauty,” she says. At 1,000 km (621 miles), that race is deemed the longest in the world. “This three-month trek sounded like an opportunity to finally fulfill that dream.”

With an excess of stress at home, Telstad was looking for an escape. She found it in this epic adventure.

“Highlights were getting to see every inch of Mongolia,” she says. “If you ever want to really see a country, ride horses across it. The most magical [sight] was coming upon this huge sand dune in northwest Mongolia. There was a river running underneath it!”

The Last Day of the Mongolian Trek

Even for Julie—who figures she has now ridden more than 50,000 career miles—the wonderment of this long expedition never wore off, even though she knew exactly what was coming up ahead of the group.

“Every day, it would get better and better,” she says. “The route was so spectacular. The last full day of riding, we were heading up to the highest peak in Mongolia. You start in this big open valley along the Milk River, which flows from the glacier at the end point, surrounded by towering mountains. You can feel the echoes of history, and that humanity has used this valley for these amazing spiritual purposes since forever.

“I was out of my mind with how incredible it was,” she continues. “It is magic beyond comprehension.”

On this final day, the group crossed the 3,600-km mark.

“I was riding by myself, because you know it’s coming to an end, but it’s such an incredible crescendo,” Julie says. “And I didn’t really expect that it was going to be such a big thing to cross 3,600 kilometers, but when it actually happened—when this random number ticked over on the GPS, and you know you pulled it off—it’s indescribable. Everybody’s had this unimaginable, spiritual, completely mind-altering time. You’re in this pristine wilderness, and everyone started crying and hooting and hollering at the fact that we had done it.”

Crowning the event was the charity aspect of helping people in need.

“We raised just under $150,000,” Julie says. “It’s an amazing thing to go do something like this and to help kids at the same time. Now we have two kindergartens, a summer camp, community library, and a sewing center. We provide employment for [approximately] 40 people, and this money will help continue these projects.”

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The scenery may be stunning, the food and staff top-notch, but ultimately, it’s the four-legged workforce that makes for a memorable trip at any dude ranch.

“It takes a special kind of horse to have a different rider every week,” notes Meris Stout, owner of Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch. “A lot of horses don’t have the right temperament to have different riders and be patient.”

Guest ranches and outfitters in different states share what goes into finding and maintaining these equine memory-makers.

Drowsy Water Ranch

Bordering thousands of acres of spectacular backcountry and the Arapahoe National Forest, Drowsy Water Ranch (DWR) near Granby, Colo., has been a guest ranch for 90 years. Since 1977, it’s been owned by the Fosha family.

With a string of about 120 horses and two mules, DWR accommodates riders of all skill levels for six-night, all-inclusive stays. During the season (late May to early September), horses are ridden an average of three to four days a week and are pastured every night. Ideally, the horses work one week and have the next week off.

Quarter Horses are the main breed—some registered, some not—but there are also quite a few Paints and about 30 full draft or draft crosses.

“Some of our best horses are draft crosses,” says ranch manager Justin Fosha. “They seem to be good keepers in the mountains, can carry a [heavier rider], and are still very athletic.”

DWR buys from multiple sources, including backyard owners, cattle ranchers, breeders and horse traders. Although price varies greatly, Justin says the average price in their area is $3,000 to $5,000.

About 50 percent of the ranch’s horses are bought locally, while the other 50 percent come from sales and auctions, ranging from the Denver area to Montana.

“We also go to sales specific to drafts or draft crosses,” says Fosha, noting that the only drawback is many draft horses still need to learn to neck rein.

For DWR, the ideal horse is 5 to 15 years old and well-broke with a trustworthy temperament. Good feet are important because of the rocky trails. Most horses are shod all around.

DWR horses only work the summer season and spend the rest of the year pastured on the fields where the ranch raises its own hay, a nutritious mountain grass mix. The whole herd is fed grain while working in the summer and receive daily hay once the snow comes. Shoes are pulled for the winter.

At 1,300 acres total, DWR has enough land to retire a horse to pasture if he becomes unusable due to age or injury.

“We don’t send old horses to auction,” says Fosha. “We’d rather them be humanely put down at the ranch than sent on a truck to Mexico.”

DWR currently has 12 pensioned horses, some of which have been with the ranch for 30-plus years. A few are still used on a limited basis, such as a once-a-week ride for a young guest. This group is kept where they get senior feed daily and have hay in front of them 24/7.

Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch

The Land of Enchantment is home to Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch in southwestern New Mexico. Although the ranch covers just 20 acres, it is surrounded by the 3.3 million-acre Gila National Forest, one of the largest federal land masses in the lower 48 States.

Originally started as a hunting lodge in the 1980s, since 2007, it’s been owned by the Esterly family: Harry, Diana, daughter Meris Esterly Stout, and Meris’s husband Seth.

Their current stable consists of 32 horses, which are mostly Quarter Horses and draft crosses.

“We’re in a very mountainous area, so we’ve found that a bigger horse does better here,” says Meris. “We like 15.2 hands as a minimum, up to about 16.2 hands.” She adds that it’s important for horses to neck rein, as guests want a free hand for taking photos.

“When we bought the ranch 15 years ago, you could get a good trail horse for $1,500 to $2,000,” she says. “Multiply that by seven now for the same quality horse. Most of that increase seems to have been in past four to five years. Recently, I’ve had good luck getting them at the auction in Billings, Montana. A lot of good quality horses go through there.”

Meris prefers to buy in the 5- to 10-year-old age range.

Off-season is Mid-November through early March. Horses winter at the ranch, which hauls in hay year-round since there aren’t pastures for grazing.

Most horses will have shoes pulled, except for the few that Meris and Seth ride through winter, often helping a neighboring rancher with cattle work. These are typically younger horses whose training benefits from more hours under saddle.

“As the horses get older, we use lighter riders and shorter rides,” she says. “Just like with people, it’s good for the older horses to keep moving.”

Because the ranch has limited acreage, retiring horses there isn’t usually an option. An exception to that is Casper, the ranch patriarch, who just retired at age 30 in 2022.

“He was here when we bought the ranch; he’s not going anywhere,” says Meris. Their other retiring horses are taken to an equine adoption facility in Colorado that specializes in rehoming former guest ranch mounts through The Annie Project (see below).

“They work hard for us, so when they’re done here, we want them to go to a good home,” she adds. “We’ve taken at least two trips to this rescue because they find good places for them to live out their days.”

Bliss Creek Outfitters

A native of Dubois, Wyo., Rusty Sanderson grew up on a ranch and has been riding since age 5. He’s worked in the outfitting business since 1995, ran his own outfitter’s camp for a decade, and has owned Bliss Creek Outfitters since 2015. Based out of Dubois, he rides and hunts out of the Washakie Wilderness in the Shoshone National Forest.

“We cover from Dubois to Cody, Wyoming,” says Sanderson, who offers summer pack trips (June to September) and three 20-day guide schools (June 1 to August 31).

His current equine string consists of 14 mules and 10 horses, which include draft crosses, Quarter Horses, Morgans and Fox Trotters.

Riding in the rugged wilderness, Sanderson prefers mules.

“They’re smoother, travel at a better pace, and are better at navigating rough trails,” he says, adding that mules also maintain their weight better during the season.

The best mounts are about 15 hands tall, stout, and smooth-traveling. Good feet are essential because of the rocky terrain. Horses are shod all around.

Horses and mules need to be trained to be on a picket and tie on a high line, since both methods are commonly used.

Sanderson bought the majority of his stock at auctions in Wyoming and through friends.

“Prices really increased dramatically since Covid,” he says. “I used to be able to buy a good horse for $1,500, and that won’t touch one now. Good-quality horses and mules range from $7,000 to $20,000.”

For the first year after buying any horse or mule, he doesn’t put clients on them.

“I ride them myself [first],” he says. “If they do well under the guides, they will be used for clients the following year.”

When a horse or mule gets to an age where mountain work becomes too strenuous, Sanderson tries to sell them privately whenever possible.

Some outfitters board their horses or mules at large ranches for the off-season, but these operations typically only feed hay when it snows. Sanderson keeps his stock at home in Dubois, where they’re kept on smaller acreage, can be monitored more closely, and fed hay daily throughout the winter, even though this means going through 100 tons of hay every year.

“I’m picky about taking care of them,” he says. Sanderson notes that horses and mules are truly the backbone of his business.

This article about dude ranch horses appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you pack your bags for a riding holiday in Ireland, throw in a pair of sensible walking shoes for a day trip to the Irish National Stud & Gardens in County Kildare. Stunning stallions, living legends, and the Irish Racehorse Experience await you.

For under 20 Euros per person, last summer four riding friends and I enjoyed the grounds of a working breeding farm and Japanese gardens, and also experienced racehorse ownership in a simulation in which we bought, trained and “rode” our charges to the finish line.

“There are two big things people visit specifically for: the horse—not one particular horse—but to get up close and personal with them, and the Japanese gardens,” says Ellen Mitchell of the Irish National Stud. She explains that the gardens are over 100 years old, and the farm is rich in heritage and horticultural history.

Mares, Foals and Living Legends

“You could be looking at a future [Epsom] Derby or Grand National winner, or a very expensive lawn mower,” said Gavin, our tour guide, as we gazed at a verdant pasture of mares and adorable foals.

In the spring of 2022, an incredible 319 foals were born at the Irish National Stud. Horse owners trailer in their mares to foal at the maternity hospital, and every year 30 equine veterinary students from around the globe are there to assist the deliveries. A colostrum bank and nursery paddocks ensure all foals are nurtured attentively during their early days.

Visitors can get up close and personal with retired hurdlers (steeplechase racehorses) in the Living Legends pasture. We leaned along the fence watching Beef and Salmon, a fan favorite, whose name was reportedly inspired by a wedding menu choice. Then there was Faugheen, nicknamed “The Machine,” nibbling tender sprigs of green. Beef and Salmon won close to 1 million Euros during his career, while Faugheen was over the million mark.

The small herd captured my attention because I assumed they were all stallions turned out together. But I learned that male hurdlers are always geldings, since jump races are longer—up to 4 miles—and geldings can sustain focus for a longer timeframe than a stallion.

Irish National Stud Stallions

The premier stallion standing at the Irish National Stud is a 26-year-old dark bay Thoroughbred named Invincible Spirit. He’s sired more than 20 Group 1 winners, the highest level of Irish racing.

A statue carved out of an 18-ton block of limestone commemorates him. His sire, Green Desert, covered mares until age 28, and his grandsire, Danzig, until age 27. Needless to say, longevity runs in the family.

Seven other majestic stallions, each with his own logo and stall with skylights, call the Irish National Stud home. The original farm owner believed in astrology, recording each foal’s birth in conjunction with the night sky, determining whether to keep or sell the horses according to the stars.

Irish Racehorse Experience

The Irish Racehorse Experience is an attraction that recently won a prestigious Thea award, given out by the Themed Entertainment Association. We stepped into a white modern farmhouse building to experience the virtual thrill of owning a racehorse, and were each given headsets and a device about the size of an iPad.

An introductory film on a life-size, horse-shaped screen greeted us first, then we headed to an auction simulation and “bought” our own Irish racehorses. I fell for a gray filly named Cool Colonnade. After the auction, we selected the best training programs for our Thoroughbreds. We had to be budget-conscious, as we were allotted only a certain amount of pretend currency for training.

The device screen listed the types of programs we could get, each one with a different fee. For example, it was 200 for beach gallops to have the “sea wind and soft sand put a spring in the step.” For another 200, I opted for treadmill training (“your horse needs to stay the distance”). I paid 150 for pampering, because I would enjoy that myself, so why not splurge on my pretend horse?

Following the rigorous training, we designed our own jockey silks. Mine were lime and emerald green with a Charlie Brown V-shaped pattern on the torso. I had more fun designing my racing silks than was necessary for a fake race.

The culmination of our racehorse ownership at the Irish National Stud was a race. We mounted simulators and faced a screen showing the racetrack. My gray filly came in dead last. At least I had fun riding in my first and last horse race!

Before we wrapped up our day, we ambled through the vibrant Japanese gardens and took a few selfies. We left with snacks, dozens of photos, and fun-filled memories.

If travel plans lead you to Ireland, add a day to your itinerary, jaunt off to Kildare and tour the Irish National Stud & Gardens. It’s located just 45 minutes from Dublin and two hours from Waterford, Cork and Galway.

Visit irishnationalstud.ie to learn more about a visit to the Irish National Stud & Gardens.

This article about the Irish National Stud & Gardens appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Enchantment Equitreks has a mission, and that is to change the stereotype of rescue horses by making them into reliable trail horses—a viable asset to an equestrian business, ultimately leading them to their forever home as safe equine partners.

According to Enchantment Equitreks co-owners Mel Graham and her daughter, Justyn Vogel, most rescue horses are simply misunderstood. They may have been through physical or mental trauma, but with patience, time and training based on pressure and release methods, these horses can find their purpose again.

Horse rescue facilities all over the world rely on volunteers and fundraising to keep them going financially, but many struggle to keep the horses fed and sheltered. They often lack access to good trainers who can take the time to work with the horses to transition them into rideable mounts safe enough for the average rider.

“Horses need a job,” says Graham. “They don’t really want to be just hanging out in the shelter.”

This is where Enchantment Equitreks’ mission comes in.

Since the business began in 2012, the mother-daughter duo—both airline hostesses and equestrians from a Quarter Horse background—have put countless rescue horses through their training program and now nearly all of their clients’ mounts are adopted.

What surprised me when joining them on one of their rides this past August was the patience, willingness and calmness of their entire string. Every horse stood quietly and calmly as guests groomed, tacked and mounted up.

On days that required trailering, they all loaded with ease, eager to do their job. Riding in primarily bitless bridles, not one of them put a foot wrong. Whether crossing mountainous terrain or galloping through a sandy arroyo, every client had a smile on their face.

The Horses of Enchanted Equitreks

Enchanted Equitreks receives new members of their equine family from two local New Mexico facilities, Walkin N Circles and The Horse Shelter. Depending on the horse, some can be ready for guests after as little as three months of training.

“Some horses take longer to settle and feel at ease with people,” explains Vogel. “It all depends on what they have experienced in the past.”

Once a horse becomes a part the working string, Enchantment Equitreks’ mission doesn’t stop there. Their ultimate goal is to find these horses a home where they will be loved and cared for. This makes room for more horses at Enchantment Equitreks that need the TLC and training to reintegrate into the working world.

EquiYoga

To further the improvement of horses’ lives, Vogel helps to promote EquiYoga, a form of breathing, balance and neutrality that increases your connection with the horse through certain pressure points, improving communication. On their Yoga Retreat rides, you can transfer what you learn on the yoga mat to the saddle.

I had the privilege of joining in a few yoga classes, concentrating on seat bone pressure for speed control, equal foot pressure in the stirrups for optimum balance, and a calm neutral space through breathing. Yoga sessions are held in a screened tent at the back of the property. Morning sessions wake up your body with the warmth of the sun, and evening classes before bed are often done by the light of the moon.

Vogel learned about EquiYoga from a friend and fellow rescue volunteer who studied with Marty Whittle, the founder of the process. From there, she developed her own curriculum.

“We have to remember that ultimately horses are our partners, and we have to show up to this partnership as our best selves,” she says. “EquiYoga gives you the tools and techniques needed to effectively communicate with your horse and mentally prepare to sit in the saddle.”

If you’re not into yoga, you can try a Cowboy Fun Week, taking in rodeos and the state fair. If the indigenous culture is more up your alley, the Native Traditions Ride incorporates a pow wow or the Indian market.

Something for Everyone at Enchantment Equitreks

Enchantment Equitreks uses the diverse ecology of New Mexico to bring you to different scenery every day. On their multi-day rides, you might find yourself climbing up the steep rocky terrain of the Sandia region to peer over a cliff at spectacular rock formations one day, cantering through meadows and sandy arroyos another, and finish up by watching the balloon festival from the saddle across the river.

Adventurous excursions for intermediate and advanced riders take place from late April to late October, and Enchantment Equitreks pride themselves in only taking small groups. This allows for more attention from the wranglers, long gallops, and a more intimate vacation.

The guest house on the property is fully equipped, but home-cooked, healthy meals are provided in the main house. Many of the fruits and vegetables come from their garden, fresh eggs are collected from their chicken pen daily, and the entire property is geared toward sustainability. On hot days, you can take a dip in the pool or relax at night under the stars with a glass of wine in the hot tub.

If you are on a budget, the ranch offers a 50 percent discount for those willing to turn your vacation into a working one. You’ll learn the ropes by helping to groom, tack up and load horses in the trailer, clean girths and pads upon return, and help around the ranch. There is only one slot per ride, however, and they do book up quickly.

These ladies pour their heart and soul into an operation that focuses on improving the lives of forgotten equines and brings positive energy and joy to every client that ventures onto their property. It was a wonderful feeling to go on a riding adventure and be on the back of a horse that might otherwise be wandering the paddocks of a horse shelter. Every client in a saddle is a stepping stone to the horse’s future.

Happy trails wherever you find yourself in the saddle!

To learn more, visit enchantmentequitreks.com or on Facebook and Instagram @EnchantmentEquitreks.

This article about Enchantment Equitreks appeared in the January/February 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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On Michigan’s pristine Mackinac Island, your carriage is waiting on the dock for you. That’s because there are no motor vehicles (other than fire engines or ambulances) on this little 4-mile-long island in Lake Huron. And it’s been that way for more than 125 years.

Climb in, and let’s go for a trot.

Once you leave the ferry and arrive on Mackinac, you have three choices how to get anywhere: Walk, ride a bike, or let a horse take you. We know which one you’ll pick.

Mackinac (pronounced “MACK-in-awe”) holds the honor of being one of the last places where you can be around real working horses in an authentic and scenic setting, without the distraction of cars and trucks. Horses aren’t pets or pasture ornaments here; they own the roads and know their way around.

If you have any doubt how indispensable horses are, ask to see the horse-drawn trash wagon as it rolls through town.

The horses seem to know that the tourists “ooh” and “ahh” over them as much as over the spectacular scenery and views. Some horses have even learned to pose for photos—ears up on command!

Painters come here to paint horses. Sculptors come to sculpt horses. And everyone comes to roll along the scenic streets and trails behind a team and have their picture taken hugging, kissing, and patting the horse of their choice.

Noteworthy Sights

Day-trippers can wander through a town full of fun shops and restaurants or travel further afield to enjoy sparkling lake vistas and a craggy coastline. But scenery here takes many forms, so your selfie options are endless. Who wouldn’t want their photo taken with the spectacular Arch Rock in the background?

You won’t find any chain hotels or motels on Mackinac Island, but you will find a long list of charming guest houses and inns. Your innkeeper will be your best source for information, weather forecasts, and how to find cell signals and free Wi-Fi around the island.

If you prefer a more luxurious experience, the opulent Grand Hotel boasts the longest porch in the world, plus a pristine antique carriage and sleigh museum. (The museum and Grand Stables are open to all, even if you’re not staying overnight.)

Carriages pull up at the door, teamsters in top-hat livery make deliveries, and guests fall asleep and wake up to the sound of hoofbeats on the drive, or a whinny from a nearby field. By the way, that might be one of the hotel’s many celebrity guests rocking in the chair next to you.

Also be sure to check the Mackinac Horseman’s Association website to see if they are hosting a show or other horse event while you’re on the island.

History and Horses

Given its location on the Canadian border, Mackinac has played important roles in American history over the centuries, but is now predominantly a fun, friendly, and interesting destination. Mackinac is a gem for summer visitors.

In winter, this is one of the most northern points in the USA—with weather to match. In older times, sleds had to cross the frozen lake from the mainland in winter to bring hay for the horses.

Horses are the biggest import to the island: 500 of them, to be precise. Mostly draft horses, they are ferried across the lake each spring to go to work moving things and people around the island once the ice in the lake melts. The day they arrive is quite a sight!

You’ll see all-business Percherons, massive Belgians, and even some ponies stepping off the ferry and onto the dock each spring.

It’s OK if you don’t know your “gee” from your “haw” in driving lingo. Not all the horses on the island are harnessed. It’s also fun to pick out the resident saddle horses. You might see colorful Paints and Appaloosas, as well as a great selection of breeds in pastures and on bridle paths or tied to one of the horse-head hitching posts.

This is also one of the few places where you can see Hackney Ponies pulling carriages.

Riding on Mackinac Island

To answer your question—yes, you can go for a ride. You’ll find several options. You might want to bring your own helmet, but don’t expect your companions to be experienced equestrians (unless you’re lucky). People come to Mackinac to be around horses, and it will be fun for you to watch new friends fall in love with your favorite animal!

Horses may be the biggest import to the island each year, but there’s no contest about the biggest export. The island is famous for its fudge, and visitors take home lots of it. There’s even a fudge festival each summer, as well as a spectacular lilac festival each June. Nature puts on a spectacular foliage display each fall for those who enjoy brisk air.

Mackinac Island is horse heaven in the middle of the Great Lakes. It’s not close to anywhere, except to the hearts of all who have visited and hope to return.

This article about Mackinac Island appeared in the October 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Visit Horse Country Tours

If you’re itching to experience all things Kentucky and great equine destinations, but aren’t sure where to start, stop by the Visit Horse Country website.

With tours of Thoroughbred breeding farms and nurseries, sport horse farms, feed mills, retired racehorse facilities, training tracks and equine clinics, you will find a tour for even the pickiest sightseer.

Red Mile Racetrack

Though the state is best known for Thoroughbreds, Standardbred racehorses rule at the Red Mile Racetrack. The second-oldest harness track in the world, visitors will love getting close to the horses in the paddock and watching live racing set against the backdrop of downtown Lexington.

The Kentucky Horse Park

With 1,200 acres devoted to celebrating the history of human’s relationship with the horse, the Kentucky Horse Park is a massive theme park for horse lovers, and it’s also a working horse farm.

It is jam-packed with special events and competitions and educational options—museums, exhibits, tours, sculptures, and live horses who live there. You’ll need multiple hours (if not days!) to see everything that interests you. On your don’t-miss list: the Parade of Breeds, trolley tour and the Hall of Champions.

Keeneland Race Course

Without a doubt one of the most beautiful racetracks in the world, Keeneland should make your to-do list even if the horses aren’t running. Races are held only in April and October, but horses train on the grounds year-round.

The Keeneland gift shop is perfect for souvenir hunting, and the world-class Thoroughbred auctions offer jaw-dropping sales prices on horses ranging from blue-blooded weanlings to Breeders’ Cup champions. Check the calendar for racing and sales dates.

Churchill Downs

Though Churchill Downs is the iconic home of the Kentucky Derby on the first Saturday in May, its location may surprise you. Set in Louisville, the track is surrounded by homes and businesses, smack-dab in the middle of the city.

Make sure you block off enough time to visit the interactive Kentucky Derby Museum and schedule a tour of the racing complex. With everything from historic walking tours and breakfast experiences to racehorse workouts and backside tours, there’s sure to be at least one (and probably more!) that strikes your fancy.

Paris

If a small-town feel is more your scene, head to Bourbon County, Ky., home to some of the state’s most iconic Thoroughbred breeding farms. The quaint downtown offers shopping, dining and the Bourbon County Horse Walk of Fame.

Encompassing nine blocks on Main Street, the walk has 60 concrete markers boasting a Bourbon County horse’s name, its farm, its accomplishments and a pair of its shoes. Be sure to snap a pic of number seven: Secretariat.

The Louisville Slugger Museum

Break away from the horses with a stop at the Louisville Slugger Museum—we promise it’s a worthwhile pit stop.

Learn the story behind the world-famous “crack of the bat” and the family that has created baseball bats since 1884. With behind-the-scenes tours, ever-changing curated exhibits and a factory outlet, you’ll be amazed at what you didn’t know about the great American pastime.

Kentucky Cuisine & Beverages

Kentucky is famous for more than Colonel Sanders’ KFC—although the chicken IS tasty, and the café and museum are worth a visit if you’re headed through Corbin!

But no one does “local” quite like Lexington. If you’re interested in the who’s who of Thoroughbred racing, be sure to check out Wallace Station, the Track Kitchen at Keeneland, Carson’s Food and Drink, and the Merrick Inn.

No matter where you are, check the main menu for favorites like burgoo, hot browns and Benedictine spread; the dessert menu for Derby Pie, bread pudding, and bourbon balls; and the drink menu for anything bourbon or locally brewed beer.

Want to make a day of it? Kentucky offers world-class tours of numerous bourbon distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. There’s also the Brewgrass Trail, the Coffee and Donut Trail, and the Beer Cheese Trail.

If nature is more your thing, there are some of America’s best hiking trails at places like Natural Bridge, Red River Gorge and Mammoth Cave, home to the world’s longest known cave system.

This article about equine destinations in Kentucky appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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A brilliant moon cast light on the flat plains of the Okavango Delta. All the while a chorus of crickets, bats, frogs, and birds—punctuated by the occasional low honk of hippo laughter—performed with gusto. I was sleeping soundly. But soon I awoke to rustling leaves, breaking branches, and the scratching of leathery legs. African elephants were nearby.

I pulled off my sleep mask in time to see a large gray elephantine rump and swishing tail disappear through the cluster of trees surrounding my tented chalet. I gasped, delighted to have such a close but safe encounter with Africa’s graceful giants.

Three elephants milled around my tent—feeding and enjoying the quiet of camp at night. One shuffled up to the termite mound adjacent to my deck. It made the perfect size pillow for the pachyderm to lean against for a bit of shut-eye. I fell asleep, hypnotized by his slow, rhythmic exhalations.

Botswana Horseback Safari: Making Camp at Macatoo

Thus began my time at Macatoo, an unpretentious yet luxurious camp situated on 500,000 acres of pristine and protected land in the southwest corner of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, the world’s largest flood plain.

Macatoo primarily offers horseback safaris, but also gives guests the options of game drives, motorboat and mokoro safaris (a traditional canoe propelled by river-bottom poling), and casual fishing excursions.

The delta, known as the Jewel of the Kalahari, is an unparalleled safari destination because of its remoteness, exclusive game viewing, and of course, the yearly influx of water from rivers that creates a freshwater oasis. It supports a huge array of plants and wildlife, including some of the world’s most endangered species of large mammals: the cheetah, white and black rhinoceros, African wild dog, and lion.

Riding Through the Scrub

My first ride at Macatoo was in the late afternoon. I approached the barn with three other guests, all repeat visitors who had logged nearly 30 visits between them.

My mount was a kind local pony, a 15-hand bay who knew the drill. We set out to the east through pungent sage scrub. A male kudu stepped on to the game path in front of us, his elegant spiraling horns supported by bulging muscles on the underside of his neck. His nose, slicked with moisture, tilted upward, trying to catch our scent.

Like all the guides I rode with, the lead guide Bernie was extremely knowledgeable about the bush and excellent at spotting game. Bernie explained that the thin white stripes running down each side of the kudu are called disruptive markings. They keep the secretive antelope camouflaged and confuse predators. Each kudu’s markings are unique, like human fingerprints. As we talked and snapped photos, our mounts munched happily on the abundant grass around us.

In the open, the land stretched to the eye’s limit, complemented by equally expansive sky. The underbellies of the clouds glowed highlighter pink and orange, while the rest of the sky was a palette of blues.

There was nothing in sight except the unbounded landscape and a smattering of animals—true wilderness. It was a thought I’d have many more times during my eight-day stay. I would go on to spend a total of 40 hours in the saddle, spotting a handful of bush planes headed to various camps, but no cars, no people, no gates, and no fences.

The Close Call

The next morning, we rode through a stand of tall African ebony trees defined by crackled bark and hunter-green canopies spreading overhead. Sunlight filtered through the oblong leaves, casting speckled golden light on the forest floor.

The horses picked their way neatly along a game path lined with soft sand. A journey of giraffes nibbled on choice leaves. Two juveniles turned to face us, jaws cranking in circular motion as ox-pecker birds scaled their bodies, removing lice and ticks from their hair.

As the morning warmed up, we rode faster. We cantered and galloped in the open plains, and on some occasions fanned out and ran abreast with game like zebra and giraffe.

The horses’ hoofbeats were indistinguishable from the wild animals running nearby. The wind whipped around me and my heart pounded with exhilaration. When we stopped, I caught my breath and gave the guide a wide smile. It was exactly the rush I was hoping to experience on an African horseback safari.

At one point, the group was cantering along a game path when we crossed a trio of grumpy buffalo, one of Africa’s Big Five. We quickly pulled up.

They stopped grazing and lifted their horn-crowned heads warily. A moment passed. One started to run directly toward us. Our guide, Thabo, instructed us to retreat.

“Let’s move, let’s move!”

The backup guide spun his horse around easily and led me and the two other guests away at a clipped trot. Thabo spoke to the buffaloes loudly, trying to call off the charge. They were undeterred.

I looked back as Thabo deftly moved his horse out of their path. We watched them disappear into a thicket from a safe distance. Lesson learned: Never trust a buffalo, particularly solitary old bulls relegated to living out their days.

Elephant Memory

I’ve been on dozens of vehicle-bound safaris, and I’ve also been on many walking safaris. (I trained as a vehicle and walking safari guide in South Africa some years back.) But equestrians have some unique advantages. Without the roar of a diesel engine characteristic of safari vehicles, riders catch the delicate sounds and observe the rhythms of life in the bush, such as animals’ social interactions, sparring techniques, mating habits, and athletic jumps and speed.

On horseback, you don’t need to stick to roads or paths; you can go wherever your horse can take you (just steer clear of lions). Even if there are no animals about, you’re still riding a horse in the African bush, one of the planet’s last frontiers.

During an afternoon ride, our group came across a breeding herd of elephants comprised of females of all ages and young males. Once the guides spotted them far in the distance, they noted the wind direction and chose a diagonal approach so that our scent wouldn’t carry toward them.

The herd of 17 crossed the plain in line; one matriarch led the way, while another wizened female brought up the rear. The elephants bore a dark water line, showing where they had dipped into a pool for a drink and a splash. The smallest ones, who our guide estimated to be about 3 or 4 months old, were completely wet, having apparently gone snorkeling.

A brilliant sunset graced the sky as we finished our ride. The air chilled as the sun dipped lower. Grooms hopped on our horses and took them back to the stable while we mingled with the camp’s hospitable owner over sundowners and snacks on the viewing deck.

Botswana Horseback Safari: Nature’s Majesty

Another favorite moment was a visit to one of the region’s few baobab trees. Baobabs once populated the area but were annihilated by elephants eager to chew on their fibrous trunks.

After about two hours on our morning ride, we approached the meadow. The African sun had come out, bright and warm. Insects jumped from grass stems, African monarch butterflies danced with erratic elegance, and antelope and zebra grazed contentedly.

The grand tree stood alone in a meadow of bunched green and yellow grass like an ancient shrine. In fact, it was about 2,000 years old. It was hard to look away from the smooth-barked giant.

Alone in the meadow, I wondered what this tree had seen in its lifetime. The specimen was testament to the persistence of a highly adapted species, and with luck, it might live another 2,000 years.

A Great Escape

Throughout the week, delights of the bush continued to surprise me. It was a world beyond the office, the noise and chaos of traffic, cell phone alerts, and gym sessions that define my normal week in San Francisco.

I relished deep conversations with strangers who became friends. We bonded over hours in the saddle together, depending on one another to act sensibly when dangerous situations arose.

At dinner, we toasted each other and our collective fortune of being able to enjoy vacations like this while gazing at the star-studded sky. We all felt free to be our boldest and silliest selves, free to leave behind the demands of our jobs.

It was a chance to explore and learn about nature and conservation, and to have surprisingly substantive and revealing conversations. Not unexpectedly, the combination of riding and the bush provided a place to relax, reflect, and enjoy in a setting of adventure and release.

My time at Macatoo showed me that in this haven for game and sanctuary for the soul, peace of mind and body is still very much possible.

This article originally appeared in the January 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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