Reason for Respect

Trainer Mike Brashear states that you’re training your horse every time you’re near him. While your horse may not be aggressive or mean, stepping into your space when he isn’t invited can lead to accidents.

Imagine walking into your horse’s pen to put hay in a slow feeder. Would your horse stand at a distance and only approach once you finish loading the feeder, or would he move forward into your space and steal a mouthful of hay as an appetizer?

If your horse is the type who would come to you and grab a snack, you may be in need of Brashear’s training tips so that your horse doesn’t accidentally munch your fingers, bump into you and cause a fall, or put you in a vulnerable position if multiple horses are in the feeding area.

“When you walk in the pen any other time, you want your horse to come to you,” he says. “Your horse learns that if he comes to you, he gets pets and gets loved on. So when you enter with hay, that’s what he’s going to do as well, unless you teach him something different. You may look at grabbing hay as disrespect, but the horse looks at it as, ‘This is what is allowed.’”

Ideally, Brashear says he wants his horses to wait. He works to put “wait” on his horses wherever and whenever possible so that they tune into his cues.

At feeding time, he wants horses to stand at a 3- to 6-foot distance and wait for him to set down and move away from the hay or grain. Brashear uses the following steps to teach a horse when he can come into your space (to get the food) and when he should respectfully keep his distance.

Teaching “Wait”

Make sure your horse has had his usual meal so that you aren’t training a hungry horse. Also make sure you have time to work with your horse without being rushed. Brashear suggests making this the groundwork that you do before you ride.

Outfit your horse with a rope halter and a 12-foot training lead attached to the halter with a knot. For now, leave the food in the barn. You’ll teach the cues without temptation present first. Only after your horse is doing well and obeying your request to stand and wait should you attempt it at feeding time.

“It’s always better to start with a connection with your horse so you have some control and can send him back out,” says Brashear.

1. Start by facing your horse and stand about 3 feet in front of him. Mimic the distance you’d like to be from your horse when you feed him in his stall or paddock.

2. If your horse moves into your space, shake the lead rope to encourage him to step or rock back. If he doesn’t move, shake harder. Make sure to keep your feet in the same place. You don’t want to chase the horse away or act aggressively. Instead, you’re just teaching him to respond to the rope correction and stay in place as you asked.

“I don’t want to walk to my horse or act mean,” says Brashear. “I want to teach him to wait. When the horse steps back, all my energy stops, and I stop moving the rope. That change of energy is the release.”

You may add a verbal cue of “get back” to remind your horse to stand still in a calm way. If your horse will stand still and not move into your space, back up and see if he will come into your space. Your moving back will invite the horse forward.

If you step forward, he should move accordingly, too. If you stop again, make sure that he will stand still. Practice this again. When you want your horse to move closer to you, step back (while still facing your horse) and take slack out of your lead rope.

As you work without feed present, think about how this same skill will work at feeding time. Think, “You can’t come up to this feeder until I’m back out of the stall door. If I turn my back and walk away, you can come up, but you can’t come up on me on your own accord.”

Add Feed

Next, set up the same scenario (standing in front of your horse and expecting him to stand respectfully), but have a pan of grain at your feet.   

Brashear says that now it’s time to ask your horse to move in and out of your space on command while the food is present. First, ask your horse to stand 3 to 6 feet away from you and the feed. Allow him to wait for about 30 seconds.

Ask your horse to come into your space by slumping your shoulders and stepping back. This change will invite your horse to move forward to get a bite from the feed pan.

“Horses will usually take one bite of grain, then lift up their heads to swallow,” he says. “Once your horse has taken a bite, ask him to step back and leave the feed again. Step forward and stand tall. Ask him to stand and wait until invited in again.”

Practice this over and over.

“Every bite of grain that my horse gets is dependent on me asking him to come into me,” says Brashear.

If your horse is responding well to your cues, practice again with a web halter. You want to know if your body language alone is enough to tell your horse to back up. With a “lighter” halter, you can tell if your horse is listening to your cues but still have some connection to him.

Finally, it’s time to test your horse without a halter. Work where you would feed your horse, but when he isn’t waiting for a meal. Take the halter off altogether and try the same setup.

If your horse stands and waits, notice if he’s looking for your cues.

“If he looks like he’s wondering if he should move to the food or not, he’s watching you,” says Brashear. “Make him wait and stand for about 30 seconds. Then, step back and away and allow him to get the food. Your rocking back draws him to you and allows him to get to the grain.”

Keep in mind that you may have to move back to previous training steps if your horse isn’t listening without the halter. Ask him to move away again when he picks his head up. Step forward and increase the energy in your body, then move your hands up and away just like you would have while holding the lead.

If he doesn’t respond, increase your energy until you get a change—without yelling or appearing angry. If your horse won’t move away or listen, go back and work with the rope halter and lead.

At Feeding Time

After you have practiced sending your horse away from the grain during a practice session, it’s time to do the same work at feeding time. Make sure that you have time and aren’t in a rush.

When you walk into the pen, carry the hay to the feeder and make sure that you’re aware of your horse’s position. If your horse comes up to you and you’re focused on filling up the feeder, put the hay down and focus on the horse just as you did in the last “no-halter” training session. Put your arms up and calmly tell your horse “get back.”

When you remind your horse of the training you did with the halter, he should learn that you expect the same behavior any time you are near him—including at feeding time.

This article about improving a horse’s behavior at feeding time appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Improve Your Horse’s Feeding Time Behavior appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

What is the Ranch Riding Trail Class?

Ranch riding patterns include obstacles such as poles to sidepass, logs to drag, poles to trot or lope, and segments of extended trotting. The class requires horses to move at slow and fast speeds—and always to listen to their rider’s directions.

“In the ranch riding trail class, there are obstacles where you need your horse to focus and go slow, and times when you want to show that your horse can move out,” Crow says. “It’s important to plan your warmup time so that you can bring the fast horses down to the speed you want and make sure they are patient for the poles or gates. With slower horses, you’ll need to know you can pick up their speed when you want an extended trot.”

Warmup for the Energetic and Speedy Horse

Crow says that many horses labeled “too fast,” “too much,” or “high strung” may need some longeing as part of their warmup, but they will definitely need a warmup that helps activate their brain.

“It’s old school mentality that you go lope them for an hour to wear them out,” says Crow. “Instead, what you need is to get the horse’s brain working with downward transitions, turns, stops, and backs. Otherwise, their bodies are tired, but their minds are busy, and they won’t pay attention to you.”

Focus on trotting and walking transitions, Crow advises.

“Loping can escalate some horses, and makes it harder to get their brain focused on you,” he says.

If competing, Crow advises that once you have warmed up an energetic horse, make sure to go straight to the show pen for your ride. Don’t warm up and then stand around watching others. If busy and energetic horses get a long break, they may need a whole new warmup.

You may also consider starting the night before. If your horse will be stalled overnight, you may choose to longe him when you arrive. Allowing him to move out will help wear off the adrenaline from travel.

Turning for Attention

At a show, begin your warmup about an hour before your scheduled ranch riding trail class so that you have time to work your horse’s body and mind. Crow likes to work his fast horses in a box formation. He trots straight ahead, then if he feels the horse being strong or going faster than he asks, he makes a sharp turn while continuing the trot.

“Pick up your reins and redirect the horse in a square maneuver,” says Crow. “This takes away the forward motion and asks him to focus on your direction.”

Work your horse in the middle of the arena and avoid going around the entire outside. Trot ahead four to five steps, then pick your reins up and to the side to direct your horse on a new straight line, creating a box or square. Move ahead again and turn when you feel your horse wanting to go faster.

Be careful not to pull on the reins to keep your horse slow. Instead, the box formation will teach your horse that he needs to pay attention, and he will be redirected when he speeds up. When your horse is going at the speed of trot you want, place your hand down in front of the saddle’s horn and allow him to move without interference.

“As soon as I make that square turn, I’ll set my hands down and let my horse go straight again,” says Crow. “If he stays focused and I have his attention, he’s earned the right to just keep going forward and I will leave him alone. If I lose his attention, I pick up and redirect, turning on a new line of the square.”

Crow says if a horse looks around and doesn’t settle in, he’ll pick up his inside rein to tip the horse’s nose in as he also applies leg pressure to encourage a bend. He will walk small circles with his horse’s nose tipped in to one side, then the other. Then he’ll repeat the box pattern again.

When it’s time to warm up at the lope, a “go” horse may pick up speed again. Crow says if you have spent time warming up at the walk and trot, the lope should be manageable, too.

“I do the same thing at the lope that I did at the trot,” says Crow. “Do your square turns and keep your body balanced.”

At the lope, Crow says many riders turn too sharply, using inside direct pressure to pull the horse’s head inside. This can cause your weight to shift to the outside, making your horse scramble to regain his balance. To avoid this, keep him straight through his body and open your reining hand up and out to guide the horse through the turn.

Mix it Up

Instead of just riding around the arena at a walk, trot, and lope and then being done, mix up your warmup.

“Bringing your horse up in speed and then back down is really important,” says Crow. “Some horses are just wired to keep that adrenaline going once they move fast. [Going up and down in speed] keeps them going strong and doesn’t wear them out. If you allow them to move from the trot or lope back to the walk, they realize how tired they are. When you ask for speed again, you aren’t fighting the adrenaline and you seem to get their minds engaged much more quickly than just running full out.”

Warmup for the Slow Horse

If your horse is known to be slow or needs to be pushed to move out, your plan needs to help boost his energy.

“With a slow or lazy horse, our goal is to get his focus and make sure he moves out when asked,” Crow says. “I’ll walk in a straight line and use a direct rein to turn the horse and drive him around in a small circle with my outside leg pressure. I want to get his feet moving.”

Crow says asking for sharp turns can help the horse know that you’re requesting a quick response. He says to be careful and not allow the slower horse to pause after you’ve asked him to move his feet.

“I want these horses crisp and sharp,” he says. “You don’t want a lag between the moment you give the horse something to do and when he does it. You don’t want to have to nag to follow up. If you have a horse that’s too dull and lazy, you can see that the rider is having to beg this horse to step forward or to move his feet. That’s not a good picture in the show. We need to sharpen up those cues.”

If your horse is on the slow side, adjust your warmup time so that you only warm up for 10 to 15 minutes before going into your class. Make sure not to use up all his energy. Instead, warm up just enough to remind your horse that he should respond quickly to your cues.

After walking for a few minutes, it’s time to get the slow horse to work. Ten minutes before the show, Crow says he will ask a slow horse to extend at the trot and the lope.

“I’ll give the horse a verbal cue and then go to my legs for a cue,” says Crow. “I will really get that horse moving and sharpen him up.”

Keep in mind, it’s all about efficiency. You may only be able to cue a horse for speed once or twice. If you warm up too much and ask for speed over and over, you may wear out your horse and not get the speed changes you want in the ring.

If you feel like you need more practice time than your horse does, run your patterns in your mind or practice the key obstacle. Don’t wear out your horse because you feel like you need more practice.

“It’s all about knowing yourself and your horse,” says Crow. “When you know how much practice you both need, you’ll go straight to the pen in good shape.”

A few notes of caution for riding the slower horse: Make sure you don’t pull back on the reins when you’re loping. Some horses will look for any excuse to slow down. Don’t train him that it’s OK to break gait because you inadvertently pulled on the reins. Also make sure you aren’t micromanaging your horse. He should go at the speed and in the direction you choose without having to hold him there. Make sure your reins aren’t tight and that you allow your horse to move out.

“If you tend to tighten up your reins too much in the extended lope because of your comfort level, remind yourself to look up, straighten your arm and put your hand down,” says Crow. “Make sure you aren’t the reason your horse is slowing down or learning that it’s OK to be a little lazy.”

Having a riding buddy or coach remind you to look up and reach forward when you ask your horse to move out can help you be in the best position and keep your horse moving.

Show Plan

Crow advises using the time that you have to walk the trail pattern to think about the body position and cues you’ll need to help your horse go the speed that you want.

“You get to walk the trail course first,” he says. Make sure you plan how you’ll ride, where you’ll look, and how and when you’ll cue your horse. Having a plan and knowing your horse’s habits—and your habits—will help you know what to do if your horse speeds up or needs a push.

“The goal isn’t just to complete the pattern, it’s to have a confidence-building pattern for your horse so he’ll come back better next time,” says Crow. “From the moment you start warming up until the moment you’re done with your trail class, your main goal is to keep building that horse up so you’re both successful and can keep going and enjoy the ride.”

This article about the ranch riding trail class warmup appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Ranch Riding Trail Warmup for Any Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

At the start of Mike Brashear’s clinic in Nunn, Colo., he invited—or nearly commanded—students to ask questions and speak up if they didn’t understand or needed extra help.

“You’re paying good money to get help,” he said. “Make sure you’re getting what you need while you’re here.”

Brashear’s mission is to help horses and riders get the help they need to keep working together. After hosting many clinics, he says he can often tell if the horse and rider pair will keep progressing on an upward trend after the clinic: It’s all in how the student approaches the clinic, prepares to learn, and asks questions to make sure they can keep working at home.

Here, Brashear helps you learn how to learn. He provides tips to find and attend a horse training clinic and get the most help possible so that you can constantly improve your horsemanship.

Make Sure the Clinic is the Right Fit for You and Your Horse

“You’re never going to know all of it when it comes to horses,” he says. “Let go of that pressure on yourself to have to know all of it already. But if you never go get extra help, you’re not going to get any better.”

Brashear recommends searching online, getting input from reviews, and asking friends about clinicians who will be near you. He says you need to find a teacher who you can work with—and who has your best interest at heart. If you ask about the clinician’s approach and style, you’ll find someone who feels approachable.

“There are horsemen who are great with horses but may not teach humans the way you personally want to learn,” Brashear says. “You need to find a personality match. Ask someone who’s been to a clinic with the person you want to learn from. What is their teaching style? What are you going to learn? How is the clinic set up?

“A clinic needs to be fun. It’s not a horse show. It should be informative. When you leave there, you shouldn’t feel worse about yourself than when you showed up.”

Consider Training Styles

Brashear says that he finds that most of his clinic students board their horses at a location without a trainer or keep their horses at home. However, sometimes riders who have trainers for specific disciplines reach out for horse behavior help or to get a different perspective.

“I think that if you have a trainer, it’s good to find out if the clinician that you want to work with shares the same horsemanship philosophy,” says Brashear. “You have to be careful with that because you can get confused. If you like that your trainer at home uses natural horsemanship, look for someone who trains in that style. If you learn natural horsemanship in one setting, and at the clinic it’s all about positive reinforcement, that can be confusing.”

However, he says there are times when it’s good to question how your usual trainer works.

“If you’re starting to question your trainer, maybe you go to a clinician because you’re looking for a different way,” he says. “You’re looking for what’s right for you and to learn about the new style. Don’t dismiss something because it’s new.”

Once you’ve found a teacher with the right approach and style, think about what you want to learn. Brashear says many clinics now can help you with trail obstacles or to hone your skills for ranch riding or a specific event. Even if you have a trainer you work with regularly, seeking help for a specific event or to expose your horse to a new event can be a good way to keep learning.

“Sometimes there might be a trainer who says, ‘This clinician is coming to town and this is who I learned from/want to learn from.’ Good trainers know that they need to keep learning and getting different perspectives, too.”

Prep Your Gear for the Clinic

Once you’ve selected the clinician you’ll ride with, find out what they like riders to have ready at the clinic. Brashear says he likes students to have a rope halter and a long training lead (at least 12 feet).

Some clinicians may have a kit to help you prepare and have their tools before you arrive. However, Brashear says if you take some good-quality gear from home, you should be able to work your horse well in what you have.

“Don’t go out and buy all new tack because you’re going to a clinic,” he says. “You don’t want to confuse your horse by changing everything to match what you think the clinician will want. Find out if what you have works or if there may be a good reason for changing up your gear—if it applies to what you need help with. There’s going to be somebody there that’ll let you borrow something if you need it, and we always come with lots of training gear, too.”

Have the Right Mindset at the Clinic

Brashear’s first tip for attending a clinic with your horse? Choose a growth mindset.

“Have an open mind and an open heart,” he says. “You might get a different perspective than you expected about your horse or the problem you’re asking about. That’s why you’re there—to get different info. If you go to get help, but then you’re closed off and say, ‘I don’t do it that way,’ or ‘I’m not doing what you say,’ you’re not going to learn a thing. I think that all clinicians at the core want to help people and horses, or they wouldn’t do this.”

Brashear also advises watching and listening when the clinician works with other riders. If all riders pay attention, he says he can often get into deeper topics because he doesn’t teach the same lesson over and over.

“Clinics are meant to be a fun time and a time with friends—just don’t get so involved in your own conversations that you don’t watch and learn what others are working on,” Brashear says. “You may not need that specific lesson now, but there’s something you can learn from everyone in the clinic. Think: How does what’s being taught affect me? How does this coincide with what I do with my horse?”

Create a Healthy Balance for You and Your Horse During the Clinic

Brashear says that many times horses and riders need some “soaking time” to relax and watch and learn from another clinic attendee. He says some riders have told him they want to be moving and learning all the time. That can be a lot for the horse and human—especially if the horse isn’t used to being ridden all day for a few days in a row.

“I tell people to be careful of when they go to a clinic,” Brashear says. “They can’t be so excited to learn everything that they miss what they really needed. If you wear your horse out early, you might be done by the time the clinician teaches what you really wanted to learn.”

Brashear suggests checking in with your horse and remembering that only you and your horse matter.

“When you get there, try not to be thinking so much about everything else that’s going on,” he says. “Just be there with your horse. That’s how you’re going to create that partnership that I’m working toward all the time—it’s by being there and being present with your horse.”

Brashear says that when he takes a clinic, he plans ahead to build in some downtime for himself and his horse.

“I’m going to work with my horse for a bit, then I might sit out for a little bit and take some notes,” he says. “I’ve got notes from [clinics] 25 years ago. When you take notes, it gives you something that you can refer back to.”

Brashear warns that if you want to record or video the clinic, make sure the clinician allows that before you begin.

Brashear’s Final Tip for Horse Clinics

As for Brashear’s final tip for you and your horse, he advises that when you’re at the clinic, remember that you’re the customer. Trust your gut. You’ll know what’s best for you and your horse to continue learning safely.

This article about horse clinic tips appeared in the November/December 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Tips for Getting the Most Out of Horse Clinics appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Saddle fit doesn’t have to be stressful. To make sure that a western saddle fits your horse well, keep in mind that you want it to make as much contact as possible around the horse’s back so that it can distribute weight well.

Darrell Nephew’s mission is to help horse owners find saddles that fit well without endless research and worry. He began crafting saddles in the 1980s, and is now executive vice president of Circle Y Saddles. He apprenticed with Tucker Saddles founder Steve Tucker and built over 1,000 saddles before taking the helm at a company dedicated to saddle fit.

Nephew acknowledges that some horses are trickier to fit than others, but he says most horses can easily fit into the common tree-type categories.

“The No. 1 reason people have saddle fit problems is they overthink it,” Nephew says. “It’s easy to worry about your horse and worry that you’re inadvertently doing something to hurt him. But saddle fit doesn’t have to be hard.”

The first step to making sure your horse is comfortable is taking the time to learn about fit. Here, Nephew guides you through the process so that you can ensure your western saddle fits—or find a saddle that does.

Share Your Story with a Saddle Fitter

If you’re looking for a new saddle or want to make sure yours fits well, Nephew suggests starting with your story. Talk to a saddle fitter or local dealer and tell them about your horse.

“Most horses can fit into a ‘normal’ saddle type, and saddle fitters know which horses usually fit the categories,” he says. “It’s a good place to start. Instead of going in and giving lots of measurements, tell them about your horse. I would say that I have a 15-year-old horse that’s starting to lose a little bit of his back. He’s a bit wide. I ride about 10 hours a week. With that info, the fitter can pull a few saddles for you to put on your horse and try.”

When he’s helping horse owners find saddles, Nephew says he first asks if the rider is currently noticing a problem with the fit. If so, he wants to know what you’re noticing.

Let the fitter know if your horse has white spots on his haircoat (a sign of a saddle that applied too much pressure to specific spots over a long time). Sometimes, white spots may be from a poor fitting saddle many years before.

Also report if you have noticed dry spots under your saddle pad when the rest of the back is wet with sweat. That’s a sign that the horse’s back may need some extra padding to fill in where a saddle is bridging (not touching all points along the bars). Sometimes finding the right pad or using a shim pad can help your western saddle fit well. Keep in mind, however, that padding a saddle that’s too narrow will just add pressure to your horse and make him feel worse.

Next, Nephew asks what tree type you’re using or the horse last had. If your horse fit well in a certain width of tree in the past, that’s a good starting point.

Then he asks, “Is your horse pretty normal?” While “normal” is a subjective term on its own, Nephew uses it here to refer to typical conformation. If the horse is fairly symmetrical, has an average wither, and has a fairly level back, he will most likely fit in a saddle made to fit the majority of horses.

There are always exceptions, of course, and some horses may require some padding or aid to fit well in a “normal” saddle, but a custom tree is rarely needed.

“Normal” Trees

The saddle’s tree is the strong material, usually wood, that holds the saddle together. On the horse, the tree’s bars make contact with the horse’s back. They’re angled to comfortably sit along the horse’s topline so they can distribute your weight evenly onto your horse’s back. The fit of the saddle, for the horse, comes down to the tree and the bars.

For most western saddles, trees fall into two common types: semi-quarter horse bars or quarter horse bars. Semi-quarter horse bars, also known as “regular,” describe trees designed for horses with a defined wither and a refined build.

Quarter Horse bars, also known as “wide,” usually fit stocky horses with round or flat backs. You may also see gaited and draft horse-specific fits. Keep in mind that the horse’s height doesn’t impact the needed tree type—it’s all about fitting the shape that runs the 9 inches behind the horse’s withers.

These categories are helpful as a starting place as you choose which tree types will fit your horse. However, there is no industry standard for how different companies name the bar angles. For each saddle you look at, you’ll need to make sure it fits on your horse.

Nephew says that all the saddle companies strive to make a saddle that helps horses.

“They’re all trying to fit a ‘normal’ horse,” he says. “But every company has a different idea of what normal is. I equate it to shopping for a man’s shirt. Lots of different shirt companies want to fit a man with a certain build. If I’m shopping for a medium shirt, some brands of shirts might be tighter or looser, but overall they fit a medium build. Saddles are the same way. The tree types are trying to fit the most common horses.”

Gullet Guide

Nephew says many horse owners worry about the gullet more than necessary. The gullet is the opening between the bars of the saddle, but it doesn’t determine the bar angles or width of the tree.

“If you’re trying to measure the gullet on a finished saddle, it’s very difficult,” Nephew says. “You just want to make sure the withers have clearance, even when there’s weight in the saddle. Whether there’s 6 inches of clearance or 2 inches of clearance doesn’t matter for most riders. It’s more important to put the saddle on the horse and see how the bars make contact.”

Saddle Fit Concerns

Nephew says it’s never bad to get your horse measured by a saddle fitter. However, he likes to place saddles on the horse to check the fit instead of purely relying on measurements.

If you have noticed a change in your horse’s back because of his age, exercise levels or diet, it may be good to have him measured. Horses’ backs can change when their fitness changes. You’ll also want to know if your horse is short-coupled (has a short back) and may need a saddle that is also short so that it doesn’t sit far onto his hips.

It’s a good idea to look at your saddle and feel where the bars are contacting your horse’s sides at the start and middle of your riding season so you can see if any changes occur.

Try It Out

Start by trying the saddle on your horse without a pad. Nephew advises learning what to see. A level saddle that doesn’t make contact at the withers is a good place to start as you train your eye.

“Saddle fitting is really just being visual and using your touch,” Nephew says. “The first thing I’m looking for is to make sure the saddle makes good contact where the bar is. I’ll take my hand and feel under the saddle close to the horse’s wither. I’m looking there to see if I make some contact from top to bottom of the bar. If you have to guess, then it’s probably making contact. It’s really obvious when it’s not—you can put your hand under the saddle too easily.”

Nephew says after he feels the saddle’s bars, he steps back and looks at the length of the saddle compared to the horse’s back. He wants to make sure that the saddle is level and that it doesn’t look like it’s making contact only at the front and back.

If the saddle is too narrow for the horse, it will sit high on the horse’s back with a “perched” look. Nephew says you can see this easily by looking at the front of the saddle. If you can see 4 to 5 inches of fleece under the gullet, that’s too much, and the saddle isn’t sitting down far enough. This will make the horse feel pinched and will cause the bars to dig into the horse’s back.

If the saddle is too wide for the horse, the gullet may be too close to the withers and the bars won’t touch the horse’s sides. This can also cause the saddle to pinch because specific points touch the horse, but the bars don’t even touch the horse’s back.

Nephew advises trying out a few different saddles after you tell a fitter or dealer about your horse.

“The fitter can give you a good place to start, and you can see what looks and feels best on your horse. Make sure you can try a saddle for a few days so that you can ride and see what happens with the saddle in motion. The burden of finding the best fit is always with the horse owner—you’re the one who knows your horse best and knows how he feels to ride.”

Further Reading:
◆ Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting
◆ Get the Right Western Saddle Fit
◆ 5 Tips for Western Saddle Fit

This article about western saddle fit appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Western Saddle Fit Made Simple appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Working a gate from horseback is a necessary skill when riding on the ranch. When competing in ranch riding classes, the obstacle can be part of the competition or the entrance to the competition grounds. You’ll need to know the process so that your horse has the skills necessary to open and close a panel gate.

Here, trainer Cody Crow helps you learn how to approach the gate opening correctly and to ride through smoothly and safely. You’ll learn what to do, whether you just want to get to trails on the other side, or score well in ranch riding competitions.

“There are no rope gate openings in ranch riding competitions now,” says Crow. “Instead, riders need to be ready to show that they can open and close a gate without leaning and while showing you have control of your horse to put him exactly where he needs to be at every part of the process.”

Ranch riding patterns will dictate if you are to open a gate with your right or left hand and if you are to push or pull. In some advanced patterns, you may even be asked to back through a gate. Read on to find out how to open a gate by pushing it away from you.

Ranch Riding Skills Needed Before Maneuvering a Gate

Before attempting to open a gate from the saddle, make sure that your horse can independently move his forehand and hindquarters. To work a gate, your horse needs to be able to move his shoulders and hips on command; he should be able to sidepass in each direction. While the sidepass isn’t always a move needed for gate opening, it’s good to know that you can move your horse into position as needed.

Warm up your horse as usual, then practice moving his shoulders by applying leg pressure in front of the cinch. Move his hindquarters by applying leg pressure slightly behind the cinch.

For each move, choose a direction to go, block forward motion with your reins, relax your leg and “open the door” to the direction you want to go while your opposite leg applies pressure.

To sidepass, you’ll block your horse’s forward motion with the reins, pick up and to the side, and apply leg pressure at the cinch line.

“Sometimes you’ll sidepass if you need to cover a mistake or move into position,” says Crow. “And depending on the gate, you may have to push it away from you and sidepass your horse a little bit. There’s always some lateral movement when opening a gate, and you’re not going to be penalized for sidepassing when needed.”

Crow says it’s important to know where the gate is placed in the ranch riding arena. He says you don’t want to sidepass to get to the gate if you could have easily ridden forward into alignment with the gate opening.

Approach and Through

When you’re ready to open the gate, ride up next to the gate opening so that the hand you’ll open the gate with is aligned with the gate’s handle.

“You may have to trot up and stop in position to show that you have control of your horse,” says Crow. “Stop so that you can reach the handle of the gate without having to lean way over or back. Your horse should be parallel to the gate. Place your reins in the hand that won’t open the gate. I put the tail of the romel reins in the same hand as the reins so it’s clean and tidy when you’re working an obstacle.”

Crow says to place your hand on the gate handle to open it. Then, back up slightly to make sure that the horse’s head will clear the gate opening. Make sure to keep your hand on the gate as you back and ride through.

“I want the horse to back straight, then as I push the gate open, I want him to bring his forehand through and then bring his hindquarters around the gate,” says Crow. “To close, I’m going to sidepass perfectly straight as I shut the gate. Then I want to see that my horse’s shoulders are just in front of the latch, lining my hand up to latch the gate easily.”

Slow Practice

When practicing at home before a competition, Crow says that he slows the process down and doesn’t open the gate quickly.

“I do it step by step, and I wait between every step to make sure that the horse is patient,” says Crow. “When a horse understands how to work a gate, he often starts anticipating and rushing through. I want to keep it all slow and have the horse work off my cues. I will ride up to the gate and stand still for 10 seconds before I reach for the handle. Then, I’ll wait 10 to 20 seconds in between each of the next steps.”

Crow says he waits even longer between steps if he’s working with a young horse.

“I make them pause and wait for me, especially with a younger horse,” he says. “Wait a little longer with a horse who has learned to rush, too.”

If a horse gets anxious at the gate opening and prances or jigs, Crow recommends backing the horse (gently) in a big circle and returning to the gate-opening spot.

“I will back him right up to the point where I wanted him to stand still, then give him the option to stand patiently or back a circle again,” he says. “This isn’t a punishment but provides the horse a choice of working harder or standing still comfortably. It doesn’t take very many circles before the horse chooses to just stand at the gate and be patient.”

Safety First

When you’re just starting to open and close gates with your horse, opt to push the gate open as Crow described.

“The ranch riding pattern may dictate how you have to work in a show, but it’s generally safer to push a gate than to pull one to you. When you pull a gate, then you’re having to go through it, and you run the risk of not having the gate open far enough and catching tack on the latch.”

As you start to practice, ride through gates designed with easy-to-use handles. In a competitive setting, you may have to reach down or use whatever handle is available.

If you are building your confidence or your horse is just learning, make sure that the handle is at your arm’s height, and you don’t have to practice too many new skills at once.

“I have seen shows where the gate has a traditional chain to reach for that is low,” says Crow. “It’s important that your horse feels comfortable with you reaching over and shifting your weight before you try to reach at a gate. Make sure your horse is used to the feel out in the open. When you do reach down, make sure to keep your weight as even as possible in your stirrups to keep your saddle from shifting and to keep your horse from moving away. I like to keep my leg off my horse as I lean so he doesn’t mistake my reaching for a cue.”

This article about maneuvering gates for ranch riding appeared in the August 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Don’t Force the Issue

“Most horses don’t like ditches because they have a hard time with depth perception,” says Crow. “Horses should have a lot of self-preservation, so if they have a choice, they’ll go around something that looks unfamiliar or unsafe. For showing, you must cross at a certain place. You have to develop the horse’s confidence and show him you’re not going to put him in a bad spot or ask him to do something that’s unsafe.”

Crow says he often sees riders force their horses to keep facing the ditch when the horses are showing fear.

“What I won’t do is force the issue,” he says. “That’s the biggest mistake that people make. Riders will go to their leg and create a lot of pressure. The ditch itself creates anxiety and pressure for the horse, so adding pressure doesn’t make sense. That’s just creating a fight with your horse. You may get him over, but you didn’t build confidence or create a better experience for the next time you need to ride across [a ditch].”

Create Options

If you aren’t sure whether your horse will cross a ditch, find out his current comfort level. As you ride straight toward the ditch, look ahead and ride ahead, expecting your horse to move forward.

When you’re close to the ditch, allow your horse to lower his head to investigate. He needs to plan out how to move. You don’t want him to walk blindly into a dangerously deep ditch. He should pick his path.

If your horse doesn’t want to cross a ditch, give him options about where to be and how hard he must work. You’ll make being close to the ditch easy. If your horse moves away from the crossing, he’ll need to go to work.

“Horses respond really well to options,” Crow says. “I’ll immediately cue my horse to work—trotting circles left and right at a fast pace. Then I’ll walk up to the ditch again and give him the opportunity to cross. If it looks like he’s interested and investigating, then I sit softly and let him think about crossing the ditch.”

If Crow feels his horse balk and want to turn away from the crossing, it’s time to go back to work.

“I go back to work, trotting or loping, depending on what the footing and grounds are like near the ditch,” he says. “For some horses, this is a quick fix. For others, this takes a long time. If a horse isn’t showing lots of fear and only mildly balks, I’ll work him for 20 to 30 seconds, then try again. If a horse has a more severe reaction to the ditch, I might work him for two to three minutes before trying again. I need to create enough work that the horse would rather choose the easier option, which is just going over the ditch. The amount of work depends on the horse and his amount of resistance.”

Moving forward in a fast-paced trot keeps the horse thinking about moving forward over the ditch.

“I’m not really a big fan of trying to back a horse in a bunch of circles when he’s already got something that he’s worried about,” says Crow. “I think that could make one try to rear up. I try to fix this with forward motion. I’ll trot the figure-8s tightly and keep his feet moving forward and freely. That’s what we want—for the horse to go forward over the ditch.”

Here, Crow demonstrates riding over the ditch between his barn and hay field. The horse he rode, Mister Fahrenheit (aka “Radar”), wasn’t sure about the 3-foot water ditch crossing, and at first balked and backed away.

After working for only five minutes of trotting circles away from the ditch and resting at the crossing, Radar was ready to cross. His first attempt resulted in an eventing-worthy jump.

Be Prepared to Jump

Crow warns that horses who are fearful of the ditch may jump—or over-jump—on their first crossings. Be prepared to stay with the motion and land softly on the opposite side.

“If a horse has had some anxiety about the ditch, when he finally decides to get across it, he’s going to jump,” Crow says. “I’m OK with that. I just want to be prepared.”

How do you prepare for a ditch jump while riding in a western saddle?

“I’ll make sure that when I’m getting ready to cross the ditch, I’m not looking down,” Crow says. “I want to have my eyes up, looking forward. I make sure that I have a hold of the horn, and I’ll lean slightly forward. I’ll make sure to give my horse enough rein so I don’t hit him in the face when he lands on the other side. You don’t want to punish the horse for finally getting across.”

Crow says that if he feels a horse taking off toward the ditch, he’ll slow the speed by pulling back on one rein before the horse crosses.

“I don’t want my horse to be ‘sucked back’ on his hocks and ready to leap,” he says. “Instead, I’ll use my reins to disengage the hind end so that he steps more than leaps.”

Keep in mind, jumping is an honest reaction for a horse.

“If the horse can’t tell how deep the ditch is, I want him to give a little hop,” Crow says. “I would much rather ride a horse that’s going to hop over a hole. That’s much safer than riding a horse that blindly steps into something where he can’t see the bottom. This is very different than if you have a graded path down to a water crossing. I don’t want a jump then. But if there’s a hole in the ground, I’m OK with the jump.”

Praise and Rest

Once Radar jumped across the ditch, Crow rewarded him with a walk on a loose rein. The pair moved up and down the ditch without turning to face it right away. After a few minutes of rest, Crow asked the horse to cross the ditch again. This time, he didn’t need as much encouragement.

Crow says forward motion is what ranch-riding judges want to see. At the highest levels of versatility ranch horse competition, the events are held outside in natural ranch settings. The judges want to see that your horse can go over and get to the obstacles and anywhere you need to work.

While the ditch may not officially be an obstacle, you may have to cross over one to get to your course. Judges want to see that your horse trusts your guidance and will move willingly wherever you point him.

This article about how to teach your horse to cross a ditch appeared in the July 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Teach Your Horse to Cross a Ditch appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The spin is the maneuver specific to reining. The stylized movement shows your horse’s willingness to move on cue with speed and agility. It’s also the move most associated with riders’ concerns. Will I stop on time? Will I get too dizzy? Will I lose count?

Trainer Cody Crow rides reining patterns in working cow horse competitions. There, one of the requirements is to perform a reining pattern before calling for a cow. When in a reining class, you’ll be asked to do four or four-and-a-quarter turns in one direction.

In a reined cow horse competition, you’ll need to do two-and-a-half to three-and-a-half spins. Whether you’re preparing for a reining event or working cow horse, the move is the same.

Crow describes how he prepares for turnarounds (also called spins) in a reining show.

“I let my horse get settled, I take a breath, make sure my horse’s head and neck are straight, then I’ll open my inside leg, look in the direction of the spin and lay my rein on the horse’s neck. That starts the spin and my count. I count out loud as I go, saying the number as soon as I start that revolution.”

With practice and patience, the spin can look smooth and effortless. But that doesn’t mean it starts off that way for every rider.

“A lot of riders panic when they get to the spin,” says Crow. “They run down and think that the horse immediately has to step into the spin. Instead, let your horse settle. Count to five and allow your horse to pause, then spin on your cue. The judge will appreciate that your horse is relaxed and settled. That sets the tone and builds eye appeal before you even start the maneuver.”

Perfect Start

Crow suggests breathing and taking your time.

“Many riders forget that horses have to have time to get balanced. You have to be patient and allow your horse to transition from standing straight and square to rocking back and moving his shoulders laterally in the spin. He has to have a few steps to figure out where his feet are before maintaining a consistent turnaround with some speed.”

Once you stop your horse from the previous maneuver and allow him to stand still, it’s time to find your landmark to help you count your rotations. You’ll pick a spot to look at so you know where to ask your horse to stop at the end of the spins. The spot you’ll choose to look at depends on your horse and how you learn to practice at home.

Start the spin by squaring your shoulders and facing the same direction as your horse. Make sure his head and neck are in a straight line, and take time to correct his nose if needed by picking up and directing his nose.

Then your horse should keep spinning once cued and until you tell him to whoa.

“When I’m ready to turn, I move my chin and rotate my shoulders just slightly into the turn,” says Crow. “Then I rotate my shoulders slightly in the direction of the turn, which also rotates my pelvis. That helps my inside leg open and closes my outside leg and thigh against the horse. I will point my inside toe toward the direction we’re going. That reminds me to open up my leg.”

Count it Out

Counting your spins is crucial to knowing when to stop. The “shut-off,” as Crow calls it, is important because you don’t want a penalty.

“If you over- or under-spin by a quarter, it’s a one-point deduction,” he says. “If you spin much more than is requested, it’s considered being off pattern. You don’t want to lose out because you haven’t practiced counting or planned how to stop.”

Crow says some riders have different counting methods, but his pattern is consistent and helps him keep his spot—even if the horse falters.

“I start by counting out loud as soon as I start spinning,” he says. “Then as I finish that first revolution, I say ‘two’ and continue counting out loud. Only when I finish that revolution will I say the next number. Some riders will count the revolution then say the number, but if your horse sidesteps or stumbles, it’s easy to lose count. If you have the number three in your mind, you may forget if you are on three or just finished three. However you choose to count, keep it consistent.”

Once the horse is moving, he should maintain the speed you request and keep going steadily through all the spins. If a judge sees a horse start slowly, build up, then slow down and anticipate a stop, that spin won’t score well.

The Finish

Crow says every horse has a little different timing in the shut-off.

“When I’ve finished my four revolutions but need to do another quarter, I say whoa and pick my hand straight up. In that time, the horse will take another quarter-turn step. I shut off my horse at the four mark, and by the time he can actually stop, he is at the four-and-a-quarter mark—just as we want. As I finish the fourth spin, I know I need to look at the center marker of the arena. I make sure to look up at the marker I need. I look in the direction of the spin, but up above the horse so I’m not looking at the ground. If I look at the ground, I’ll get dizzy.”

When it comes to knowing where to stop, Crow says some horses will stop their spin as soon as you pick up your hand. Other horses will need a few steps to stop completely. You’ll need to practice this at home to find out where your horse needs to get the cue so that he’ll consistently shut off at the point where you need it.

“When I ask a horse to stop, I move my legs off and lift my reining hand up and say ‘whoa,’” says Crow. “If I have a horse that is a little sloppy, I will say ‘whoa,’ then may use my inside leg to support that horse in the stop.”

Reining Spin Practice Tips

Crow says that most horses don’t get dizzy after turning just four times. He has found that horses get dizzy if you practice too many spins in one direction during practice at home. How do you avoid this? Don’t require your horses to spin his best during every practice. Keep your horse relaxed.

Crow recommends practicing at home with half the speed your horse could go. You’ll keep your horse turning on your cue and keep a consistent pace until the cue to stop. If you don’t cluck or kiss to your horse to ask for more speed, he should just go in a nice slow speed.

When it’s closer to a show and you want to practice just as you’ll perform at a show, kiss or cluck and ask for the show speed. Remember, once you cue your horse to spin, he should stay in the turnaround until you tell him to whoa.

When working with students, Crow has his riders practice their cues, then work on the horse’s performance.

“I want to know that the rider can count correctly and get the correct number of spins for the show. Once I know that the rider is trained, I also want to make sure the horse is ready and doesn’t learn to anticipate. I’ll mix up the number of spins we do. I don’t want my riders to constantly spin four times. I don’t want the horses to anticipate and shut off at four. Instead, I like riders to practice spinning six revolutions. That’s just enough to not get dizzy while keeping them from anticipating and learning to stop the spin too soon.”

The post Master Your Reining Spins appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Does your barrel racing horse get overly excited when he sees the barrels? If he has the desire to run and turn, leaving you as a passenger instead of the driver, it’s time to refresh your cues. This means practicing without a barrel present. Working on speed changes and turns without the barrels will help your horse remember to listen to your aids instead of moving around the cans as he sees fit.

Here, trainer and top barrel racer Kelly Kennedy Joseph teaches you a practice drill that she has riders work on if their horses have taken the lead. She wants her horses and riders to work together—and doesn’t want a horse to anticipate what to do if he hasn’t received a cue.

“This is one of the drills we work on to help riders get their bodies in the right position and get the horse and rider in the right timing without working on the actual barrel pattern,” she says. “This drill helps the horse listen to you and rate his speed and turn on cue. Sometimes horses get running and stop thinking. There’s more to the barrels than going fast and pulling them around. You want them to respond to you.”

With Kennedy Joseph’s barrel racing exercise, you can practice barrel racing elements anywhere. You’ll have the skills you need to ensure your horse is listening.

Ride the Diagonal

Begin by clearing the barrels from the middle of your arena so you’ll have ample space to lope and turn in various locations. You may leave barrels in the arena to help show your horse that the usual clover-leaf pattern isn’t the plan for today. Instead, he’s to follow your cues as you direct him on a new and different path.

Warm up your horse by working in each direction at the walk, trot, and lope. To begin the drill, ride to the corner of the arena. Position yourself so that the long side of the arena is in front of you and your horse’s hind end is all the way to the left of the short side of the area. You’ll travel across the arena diagonally, moving from left to right.

Ask your horse to canter and pick your reins up slightly to the inside to keep your horse’s nose tipped away from the straight line. This will help you rate his speed and keep him from charging ahead.

Remind your horse to listen to your body cues. Roll your hips down onto your horse’s back to ask him to collect and use his body before you ask for a turn. Make sure to keep your hands low and sit down on your pockets as you move straight across the arena’s diagonal.

Each time you practice this long line, choose the speed you’d like your horse to go. You can choose to lope slowly or add leg cues as you ask for speed.

The Turn

Look ahead and plan for a place where you’ll turn. You’ll circle an imaginary barrel at the opposite end of the arena from your starting point. You’ll need to decide when to cue your horse to collect and slow before asking for the turn.

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“When you’re ready, roll your hips down to help your horse collect his body beneath you as you continue to drive toward your turning spot,” says Kennedy Joseph. “Make sure to keep your reining hand low. As you roll your hips down, your horse will place his hips beneath you.”

When you reach your invisible barrel, cue your horse into a circle. Turn your horse to the left, toward the middle of the arena. Keep your hips rolled down as you turn by lifting your reining hand to the left and applying outside leg pressure.

Do a turn around your imaginary barrel. Turn tightly, then move your hand forward and toward your starting point. Move out of the turn quickly by rolling your hips forward to ask for speed as you finish the pattern.

“Keep rolling your hips and look ahead as you prepare to turn,” says Kennedy Joseph. “If your horse thinks he should turn before you ask, use your reins to direct him straight ahead and keep him moving forward. At the same time, roll your hips to keep him collected. You’ll need to slow down and stay straight before you turn. Your horse should be tuned in to feel when you want the turn.”

Kennedy Joseph says this exercise will help you learn how much of a cue your horse needs to move forward and then turn on cue. For some horses, you may need to keep pushing forward so that he doesn’t anticipate a turn.

Many horses that are trained for barrels will turn as soon as your forward motion cues stop. For other horses, you may need to help guide the straight line and help the horse through the turn. When the barrel isn’t present, you’ll learn to feel what specific cues your horse needs.

Kelly Kennedy Joseph has been active in barrel racing since she qualified for Little Britches Rodeos. She now coaches riders from her Berthoud, Colo., facility and races at the professional level nationwide.

This article about barrel racing practice without barrels appeared in the May 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Whether you’re new to cattle work or want to improve your cattle-driving skills, you’ll need to learn how to influence a cow’s movements. How you and your horse approach, track, and drive a cow influences where it will go next. To master driving and turning a cow in the arena, you must know where to position your horse.

“The best way to control a cow is to be closer to the cow,” says trainer Cody Crow. “A lot of people feel it’s safer away from the cow, but if you’re too far away, the cow can move where it wants to go. Make sure to step up and influence where you want the cow to go.”

Here, Crow helps you position your horse so you can drive a cow forward and then change the cow’s direction. He’ll teach you how to visualize where to be.

He also shares his teaching strategy: to take turns acting out the part of cow and rider with another riding friend. Whether you don’t have cattle to practice with or if you just want to boost your confidence, riding and “moving” another horse and rider can help you understand where to be when you’re working cattle.

The Pressure Points in Cattle Work

When he first teaches students to drive and turn cattle, Crow says he has riders follow a cow and learn where to be to get the forward drive. Working in his large arena, riders first follow and track the cow, then learn to drive it forward.

Driving: “If your goal is to drive the cow forward, you want the horse’s shoulder putting pressure on the cow’s hip—between the outside of the hip and the cow’s tailhead,” says Crow.

Only after riders feel comfortable following and pushing a cow forward will he teach them to move up and turn the cow.

Turns: “If I’m going to make the cow turn, I want my horse’s shoulder even with the cow’s eyeball,” says Crow. “You’ll need to change your pace and move faster than the cow to get in position. You’re not merely pushing but moving forward to change the direction. Whether you’re circling the horse or turning, this is the position to keep the cow turning away from you.”

Once you learn where to position your horse, you’ll need to practice so you know which position to be in at the right time.

“Sometimes you’ll have a cow that wants to move off of the fence,” says Crow. “You may have to move quickly between drive and turn, then get back to the drive spot to keep the cow moving. If you linger at the eye during your turn, the cow may stop when you don’t want it to. Make sure to return to the drive line—focusing on the cow’s tailhead.”

Find a Practice Buddy

Most riders don’t have consistent access to cattle, but you can still practice your position when you ride with another horse and rider.

“It’s important for you to see where the cow’s escape routes are and how the horse’s position influences that,” says Crow. “When you’re just riding around a cow, I don’t think most riders are trying to see the cow’s perspective. Where does the cow see the open door? Learning the cow’s perspective can help you know where to be.”

Whether you’re new to cattle work or just want to practice cow work without cattle present, riding with another horse and rider can help you learn while removing some of the fear and speed. Ask a friend to ride with you and take turns being the rider and the cow. Make sure to ride horses that get along well and keep a safe distance as you practice.

Make sure to communicate. Since you’re riding with a friend, talk through your moves and share what you notice. Tell your friend where you’re going and when you’re moving in position to turn. Ask each other what you notice and where you felt you had to move or turn.

Crow suggests starting by driving your friend—who’s acting as the cow—forward along a fence line. To get in the best position, stay slightly behind the other horse, looking at his tail. That’s the point to watch as you push that horse’s hip and drive your friend forward.

Next, make your friend—the cow—turn. You’ll move from the drive position and instead focus to the cow’s eyeball. Move ahead so that your horse’s shoulder is even with the other horse’s eye. You’ll need to speed up your horse to move into position. When you move your position and focus, you’ll influence your friend to turn.

When you move your horse’s shoulder to ride parallel to the other horse’s eye, she’ll feel a shift in pressure and that the forward movement is blocked. There’s nowhere to go but to turn away from the pressure at the eye.

You can practice this drive-then-turn pressure change as you ride down your arena’s long side. This is a great way to practice going down the long side without the fear of too much speed. You’ll drive the “cow” down the fence, then turn when you’re ready.

Use caution and communicate as you ride with your friend. While moving in a trot or lope, you can learn what position to move into without fearing that the cow will move into you.

Cattle Work in Real Time

With lots of practice, you’ll learn how to read and influence cattle because of your positioning. It will feel natural and you won’t have to think so much.

“Now it’s muscle memory for me,” says Crow. “I grew up on a cattle ranch, and I had the opportunity to read cattle and learn how to influence their behavior by my positioning. The more you practice, the more it becomes second nature. You can just get to the spot where you want to be instead of having to stop and process, ‘Where should I be and where do I need to be?’ By the time you process all of that, the moment is lost, and the cow has just dragged you down the arena.”

When you’re confident knowing how to move the cow forward and how to make a turn, you have the basics down. Then there are always tweaks to help you move your horse through the turn and polish your moves. But you’ll need these fundamental driving and turning skills to get started.

Special thanks to Payton Porterfield and her horse, Steps of Perfection (bay), for helping demonstrate these exercises.

Read More: Introducing Your Horses to Cattle

This article about cattle work appeared in the April 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Cattle Work 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here, trainer Cody Crow helps you understand how horses learn that they can break gait if they choose—and why riders fall into the trap of constant pedaling. He’ll help you teach your horse to lope and keep loping until another cue is given. He also provides tips to help you sit back and drive your horse into the lope.

No Nagging

“If you constantly nag a child about cleaning their room but there’s no follow-through or consequence, they’ll soon learn they don’t have to clean their room,” says Crow. “It’s the same way for the horse. If you kiss to the horse and he doesn’t step into and stay in the lope, there must be a follow-through. If there isn’t a follow-through, you’re effectively training your horse to ignore you. He’ll take you up on the chance to ignore you if allowed. The horse may break down into the trot or just get hollow. Most horses will only work as hard as you ask them to. Make sure you’re following up.”

In the show pen, the judge wants to see a horse that is willingly guided. The horse should step into a transition with fluidity and a willing demeanor. Crow says that your horse’s willingness to lope freely will affect your performance scores for several transitions and maneuvers.

“If you see a rider who’s having to beg the horse to go forward, it’s not a very pretty picture,” Crow says. “Maybe a judge won’t minus all of the maneuvers, but he certainly isn’t going to plus the maneuvers. If a rider is having a discussion with the horse about just staying in the lope, there’s no chance she could have shown an extended lope. Then she won’t be able to show a transition to a collected lope. Also, if you’re begging your horse to stay in the lope, he can’t have the balance to show a good transition from the lope to the trot.”

Making the Change

“Horses that need to be pedaled all the time may never have been taught to move forward freely,” says Crow. “Horses can get dull and lazy when the rider allows that behavior. If a rider is timid or isn’t clear with the horse, it’s easy for him to just stop.”

Crow says he helps horses break the pedaling cycle by showing them that they can move out freely. He’ll ask the horse to lope and boost the speed to show the horse he can move out and will be expected to move at the speed requested.

First, Crow teaches the horse that there will be an audible cue before any follow through or consequence. He makes a kissing sound to ask for the lope, then uses his leg pressure to reinforce the sound. Once he’s loping, he kisses again to ask for more speed.

“The sound will be followed by my leg cues—with a little more outside leg cue to keep the horse moving forward,” he says. “When the horse learns a verbal cue before the leg cue, he learns that he needs to move on. The verbal cue was the ask, and the leg cue was the tell. If the horse still doesn’t respond, I’ll bump with my leg, but I won’t continue to bump. If I were to constantly bump, I’d desensitize the horse to my leg.”

If a horse has been ridden with constant leg cues, Crow suggests the rider carry a short crop.

“I teach riders to use a verbal cue first, then their legs, then a tap on the hindquarters (at the hip) will be a new cue that the horse isn’t desensitized to,” says Crow. “We aren’t talking about hitting the horse hard at all, just providing a new feeling and something the horse isn’t desensitized to. Usually it only takes one or two taps for the horse to understand that he should move off of the kiss sound and not wait for other aids.”

Loping Position

If you have to canter, push, canter, push on a horse to prevent him from breaking gait, you may have developed a habit you’ll need to break.

Crow says to make sure you’re sitting on your hips and using your legs. If you’ve become accustomed to begging the horse to go, you may have learned to lean forward to encourage him. This position actually moves your legs away from the horse. You don’t have the ability to use your leg aids as well as if you can sit back, drive and push the horse forward from your seat. Think of driving instead of leaning forward and taking the horse with you.

Riding a different horse can help you feel what you were doing and allow you to sit up and change your posture.

“Sometimes it’s helpful to get on a horse that will keep the lope so you can feel what it’s like to just ride,” advises Crow. “Many times, riders who have learned to bump every stride will lean forward so their legs aren’t in the place to drive. It’s important to learn to sit back and allow your legs to open and drive the horse with a long, relaxed leg.”

This article about breaking gait at the lope appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Keep Loping: Prevent Breaking Gait at the Lope appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.