Here are their tips to choose the right grooming products for the job and make the most of every spritz and sudsing.

Product Prerequisites

The overall health of the horse’s skin and coat is paramount to equine beauty, according to Sally Stith-Burdette, marketing director for Shapley’s Superior Equine Grooming Products.

“Healthy skin is going to produce good, healthy hair,” she says.

There are many products to choose from, and you should first consider that the products you’re grooming with are gentle, pH balanced, and made with quality ingredients, says Devon Katzev, president and product developer at Straight Arrow, makers of the Original Mane ’n Tail product line, as well as the Cowboy Magic and Exhibitor’s brands.

The way you use the products also makes a difference, but ultimately, he notes that you’ll have to judge for yourself based on what works best for your horse.

To get the most bang for your buck, it pays to take a moment to read directions on the bottle. It’s easy to overlook this step with familiar products like shampoo, but the manufacturer’s instructions are intended to maximize performance.

And spoiler alert: There’s no free pass from regular grooming. Even with the best products, good old-fashioned currying and “elbow grease” is still a big part of grooming success.

Choosing a Shampoo

Before you head to the wash rack, our experts explain why it’s important to make sure you have a shampoo that’s made specifically for horses and pH balanced for equine skin.

“A dog’s pH is different from a horse’s, which is different from people’s pH,” explains Stith-Burdette. “Horses actually have the most sensitive skin of all of them. When you use something that’s not made just for the horse, you run the risk of it being drying [to the skin and coat].”

While human shampoo is usually gentle enough to be safe for horses, it’s not really designed to effectively cleanse the dirt that horses get into, or their coarser hair and sensitive skin.

“Horses love to roll and get dirty, and equine shampoos in general are designed to clean and compensate for the extra dirt,” says Katzev. “Plus, conditioning for their extra-thick manes and tails is essential to keep them long and flowing.” For general cleaning, he says you’ll want a gentle pH-balanced formula and ingredients that clean and nourish.

One thing you want to avoid is harsh detergents, such as household cleaning items. Products made for laundry or dishes are going to be extremely drying to the horse’s skin, strip the natural oils from the coat, and leave the hair dull and brittle.

“If you wouldn’t use it on your own head, don’t use it on your horse,” says Stith-Burdette, warning that these household cleaning products can cause itching and create cracks in the skin, inviting bacteria and infection.

The Right Product for the Job

When selecting a shampoo for your horse, you’ll also want to choose the right one for the job. Equine shampoos may be formulated for routine cleaning and frequent use; contain medicated treatment for skin; or be made to enhance color or shine.

With skin problems, Katzev recommends consulting with your vet and doing your research to better understand what you are looking to treat, such as rain rot, girth itch, scratches, et cetera.

Getting the most out of the product depends on the type of shampoo you’re using, says Stith-Burdette. For best results, read the product directions—some shampoos are designed to be diluted, while others work best applied full-strength directly to the coat.

“Color enhancing shampoo [is used] full strength,” she says. “You can use a medicated shampoo, if you’re [treating] a problem like rain rot, at full strength and let it sit; if you’re just trying to prevent [a skin issue], then dilute it in a bucket of water. Same with everyday shampoo; you just add a little bit to the water.”

Bathing Technique

Technique for bathing your horse matters, too. This includes a good sponge for thorough application and currying while the shampoo is on the horse, cleaning down to the skin and bringing all the dirt to the surface where it can be washed away. You’ll also want to rinse the shampoo thoroughly from your horse’s coat, as leftover suds may cause dry, itchy skin, dandruff or dullness.

When it comes to cleaning with any shampoo, having good water pressure always helps to get deep down into the coat to clean, according to Katzev. He also recommends good basic tools in your bath kit, such as a sponge and sweat scraper. Grooming gloves or a currycomb will also help with that deep clean.

After bathing your horse, Katzev suggests taking the time to inspect the results, noting that your horse may not be fully clean. Often, he says, dander and fine dirt under the coat are the culprits for a less than stellar shine. In addition to causing a dull appearance, that dirt and dander underneath the coat can irritate the skin if rubbed by a saddle, girth, or other tack, making cleanliness of more than superficial importance.

To check that your horse is truly clean, Katzev advises running your hand backwards against the coat randomly in different areas on the horse to see if dander still exists underneath the hair.

“If you still see dirt or dander, you didn’t wash [the horse] thoroughly,” he says. “In that case, you may need more of the shampoo applied directly to get better concentration of the product to clean instead of diluting it in a bucket. Plus, some good water pressure also helps for rinsing.”

If you groom and wash your horse regularly, Katzev notes that you will not need to use as much shampoo. However, he says the important thing is to try to keep your horse comfortable, because dirty skin can get itchy and dry.

Again, he says it may take some trial and error to see what works best for you and your horse, but the results should speak for themselves.

“If your true desire is shine for the coat, then [it] will obviously show on the final finish,” says Katzev.

Color-Enhancing Shampoos Color-enhancing shampoos are made for bringing out the best of your horse’s coat color. They whiten or brighten and are designed to complement your horse’s hue. “You will see the difference using the right formula; a good color-enhancing formula will optically brighten and enhance coat appearance, altering the way the light interacts with each hair shaft,” says Devon Katzev, president of Straight Arrow, makers of the Original Mane ’n Tail product line, as well as Cowboy Magic and Exhibitor’s brand, which is known for its line of color-intensifying shampoos: Quic Silver, Quic Black and Quic Color. Whitening shampoos lift stains from the hair gently, without bleach or chemicals, and have a purple cast to counteract green stains or yellowing in the hair coat. Black and dark coat enhancing shampoos reduce unwanted red tones, while chestnut shampoo adds coppery highlights, and palomino brightens golden tones. Color-enhancing shampoos can be used regularly if you want to keep bumping the color up, or just used whenever the color needs a boost, according to Stith-Burdette. Be sure to follow the directions on the label. In general, color-enhancing shampoos are intended to be used full-strength and not diluted. They typically need to sit on the coat for several minutes to work their magic. Take care not to leave whitening shampoo on longer than recommended, or it may leave a purple tint behind.

Conditioning

Conditioners add essential moisture to soothe and nourish skin, strengthen hair, and add smoothness and shine. You can use a rinse-out product while bathing your horse, and there are also leave-in products to provide additional conditioning, including sprays and grooming oil.

If you’re not familiar with grooming oil, choose a product made for horses. After bathing, add a dollop to a bucket of rinse water, sponge it all over, then body scrape the horse. Or just pour some on a rag and run it over the horse after your everyday grooming routine, says Stith-Burdette.

It might feel like an extra step to add a conditioner, but when you consider the damaging environment that a horse’s hair and coat endure, from the sun and harsh weather to dirt, sand and sweat—plus frequent bathing that can strip the oils from the skin and coat—the extra moisture is beneficial.

“Conditioners are very important for hair care because they help strengthen and nourish hair with proteins and essential oils, allowing for healthier hair growth,” says Katzev. “If your goal is fuller, thicker, longer manes and tails, then conditioning is a must.”

Detangling Manes and Tails

Detanglers work by creating a friction-free slip that helps reduce tangles and knots. They also add conditioners to strengthen hair, prevent damage and make manes and tails more manageable. In the quest for a long, flowing mane and tail, a good detangling product is a go-to.

When it comes to spray detanglers versus serum detanglers, which should you use?

“Both types of products approach the same problem in a different way,” says Katzev. “Spray detanglers are usually water-based emulsions designed to spread out quickly over hair without necessarily having to use your hands. For quick touch-ups and daily maintenance, this application will speed up [your grooming], plus it lasts for days and will be more economical.”

Stith-Burdette notes that it’s important to give the product time to work before you start brushing or combing the hair.

“If you’re using it to detangle a tail, just spray the tail really well,” she says. “Let it sit for a few minutes, then start brushing from the bottom of the tail up. Give it a minute to start unraveling a little bit so you’re not ripping out a lot of hair.”

Serum or gel detanglers are more concentrated and are applied by hand to the mane and tail.

“Serums can be helpful in heavily knotted hair when your concern is to work it out by hand and detangle carefully to prevent any excess tearing of the hair,” says Katzev. “They also have a thickening and smoothing effect, plus [make] a great overall appearance and shine.”

To apply, Katzev recommends pouring the serum into your hands first and working through the hair.

Time to Shine

Silicone-based coat polish and shine sprays will give your horse an extra glow and help repel dust and dirt to cut down your grooming time. The silicone coats the hair shaft, making it more difficult for stains to set and preventing mud from clinging to the coat.

“These products can be used daily, but their effectiveness also relies on clean hair, so washing is important,” says Katzev.

These sprays do double duty to detangle manes and tails, and as an added bonus, are also good at preventing blanket rubs, allowing the blanket to slide over the coat without friction.

Coat polish spray can be applied after bathing while the horse is wet (after removing excess water). To apply to a dry coat, groom your horse thoroughly first to remove dust and dirt. Spray evenly, let it dry for a few minutes, and then buff to a shine with a towel or brush.

These products are slick, so be careful to avoid the saddle and girth area. You’ll also want to skip manes or tails that will be braided soon, since the hair needs to be a little grippy.

Oil-based finishing sprays offer a highly reflective shine for the show ring, but they aren’t designed for everyday use. The oil attracts dust, so these products are best reserved for right before going into the ring.

Key Takeaway

While elbow grease is the tried-and-true path to a shiny coat, busy equestrians often fall short on time to devote to currying and brushing.

“We’re all in a hurry, it seems,” says Stith-Burdette. “We try to give you tools to use, and make sure that they will not hurt the horse over time by drying out their skin or damaging their hair.”

Ultimately, Katzev believes the way we perceive grooming is important—to value the process and not see it as a chore. Instead, he says, think of grooming as quality time to spend with your horse, and enjoy it.

“Take the time if you can with your equine friend and enjoy—that’s why you are both together,” he says.

Further Reading
◆ 10 Horse Grooming Hacks
◆ Grooming Makeover Tips with Emma Ford
◆ Pro Tips for Better Horse Show Grooming

This article about grooming tips from experts appeared in the May 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Grooming Tips from Industry Experts appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When you list what’s in your grooming box, have you ever mentioned a hair dryer, laundry detergent, or dryer sheets alongside your favorite brushes?

Drawing on our personal experiences as grooms for show jumping Olympic medalists Anne Kursinski and Kent Farrington, Lindsey Trockenbrot and I compiled this list of grooming hacks. While they may seem obscure, they will help you promote your horse’s coat health.

1. Hot Toweling

Hot toweling is a great way to clean your horse without the wash rack—especially in winter when the dust goes deep and the weather is too cold for a bath. All you need is a bucket of hot water, two towels, and a bottle of your favorite coat conditioner or coconut oil.

Soak the first towel completely and wring it out well. Rub the rag over the horse’s body like you would with a curry comb, going gently against their coat to get beneath the hair.

Once you’ve gone over your horse once, soak and wring out your second towel. This time, spray your coat conditioner of choice directly on the towel. Now go over the horse again, spraying additional conditioner on the towel as needed. Be mindful that you are not applying coat conditioner to the saddle and girth areas if you’re planning to ride that day.

To bring out that extra shine after hot toweling, go over your horse with a hard brush, followed by a soft brush.

2. Hair Dryer

When the weather is too cool for a bath, taking a hair dryer to your horse’s woolly winter coat (desensitizing him first, of course) will dry out his sweat marks in no time. Any household hair dryer will do the trick for this hack.

Once the hair is dry, just curry and brush it out. There’s no need to wait hours for your horse to dry when you can hair dry him!

3. Waterproof Ointment

If your horse has soft hooves, you live in an area where the humidity is high, or your horse gets frequent baths and/or his legs washed, this hack is for you.

To help prevent your horse’s hooves from absorbing water while being rinsed or bathed, apply Corona ointment or Vaseline to the walls of his hooves before you bathe him. This seals the hooves so the water will bead right off of them.

4. Dryer Sheets

When the air is particularly dry, does your horse’s staticky hair—and tail in particular—drive you crazy? Try taking a dryer sheet and rubbing it all over his mane, tail, and body. This will help lessen the static in no time—and it also helps keep bugs away!

5. Apple Cider Vinegar

When the sun and bugs are out in the heat of the summer, rinsing your horse in apple cider vinegar will become one of your favorite tricks in the barn. Apple cider vinegar is one of the most beneficial ways to help cool a horse down and keep the bugs away.

Add enough ACV to cover the bottom of a bucket, then fill the bucket with water. Use a sponge or rag to generously douse your horse in the mixture. Don’t worry about rinsing him off—just sweat scrape and you’re done.

While your horse may smell a bit like a salad, he will thank you for helping them keep the bugs away and helping him cool off!

6. Laundry Detergent

If you’ve tried every product under the sun to rid your horse’s white tail of stains or are trying to brighten white legs, try using detergent. Yes, as in the one you use to wash your laundry!

Dilute the laundry detergent just as you would with regular shampoo (just a glug in a full bucket of water), scrub, rinse, and voila, your horse will be blindingly white.

7. Mouthwash

Have you seen your horse rubbing his rear on his stall, feeder, or water buckets? Mouthwash might be the solution you are looking for.

Dilute Listerine mouthwash 1 part mouthwash to 4 parts water in a spray bottle. Spray liberally and work into the roots of your horse’s mane or tail.

You can spray this solution daily or as needed. This hack should not replace washing your horse’s tail, but is a helpful addition to your grooming routine.

8. Socks

Putting socks on your horse while riding him in sand arenas, alongside currying and keeping his legs clipped below the fetlock, may help minimize fungus on the back of his pasterns.

There are socks specifically made for horses, but a pair of human crew socks will also do the trick. Simply cut the foot of the sock off, leaving the tall part intact, and pull the sock over your horse’s hoof so that it covers their pastern and fetlock.

Tip: Try putting a gallon-sized Ziploc bag over your horse’s hoof to make putting the sock on easier.

To help keep the sock in place while riding, use a pair of hind boots. Socks are also a great way to keep your horse’s white legs clean overnight at a horse show.

1 of 2

9. Vacuuming

Not to be mistaken for a household vacuum, this vacuum is designed for horses. While these units will cost you a pretty penny, you’ll find them to be worth every cent.

Vacuums allow you to get your horse looking his best without the hassle of a bath. From cleaning sand, dust, and even feathers, vacuums have a tremendous impact on your horse’s coat health. They are particularly useful for removing sand and dust, which will help keep fungus from developing on your horse in humid climates.

For optimal results, curry your horse thoroughly beforehand to loosen the dirt on their coat. Be sure to desensitize your horse before vacuuming.

10. Olive, Coconut, and Baby Oil

While nearly everyone has a bottle of olive oil in their pantry, not many equestrians have olive oil stashed in their tack box. One of the biggest benefits of olive oil is that it can help keep your horse’s hooves conditioned. Simply applying it to your horse’s hooves with a brush or rag will help condition the hoof wall and procure a polish-like shine.

Next time you’re looking to add shine to your horse’s coat at a show or at home, try combining coconut oil with water in a small bucket or a spray bottle. While being mindful of areas where your tack will sit, spray or use a damp towel to apply the coconut oil to the horse’s coat. After applying the oil, use a soft brush to go over your horse’s coat and enhance the shine.

Additionally, baby oil or witch hazel can be used to soothe recently clipped areas on horses, especially around more sensitive areas, such as the muzzle, face and legs. Wipe your horse down with a damp rag and oil, focusing on these sensitive areas.

While these hacks will never replace the benefits of traditional grooming, they are excellent additions to your horse’s grooming routine that will help promote a happy and healthy coat.

These 10 grooming hacks and tips appeared in the May 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post 10 Horse Grooming Hacks appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

It’s not uncommon for horse owners to become complacent about grooming amidst the many other tasks involved with having horses, especially when combined with finding the time to ride. But a dedicated, mindful equine grooming session can be quite relaxing and yet another way to share space.

I’m an advocate of letting horses be horses, but to be honest, sometimes mine look downright feral as I slack on their grooming. I often find myself doing a quick “cowboy groom,” focusing on just the areas that need direct attention, paying little attention to anything else. The reality as horse owners is sometimes that’s all we have time for.

Often, equestrians can become task-oriented or fixated on the ride, skimming over the true joy of simply being around horses. Mindful grooming is a nice way to connect beyond riding. Your horse will thank you, because after all, who doesn’t love a good spa day and quality time with a friend?

As part of my Body, Mind, Equine retreats, I include a mindful equine grooming segment. This session often includes some of the sweetest and most memorable aspects of the program. When I take the time to do this with my horses, I’m reminded of how rich the experience is.

What are the Benefits of Mindful Grooming for You and Your Horse?

◆ Slowing down and an opportunity to practice present-moment awareness.
◆ Spending quality, quiet time with your horse.
◆ Relaxing and soothing both horse and human, lowering stress levels.
◆ Getting hands on your horse to inspect anything that might be missed at a glance, such as tenderness, weight loss/gain, and hoof issues.
◆ An opportunity to observe energy and to be aware of what energy we are bringing to our horsemanship, such as calm, rushed, scattered or centered.
◆ An occasion to bond, build trust and connect.

Benefits for Senior Horses and Non-Riders

Since my horses are now seniors, I find we spend more time doing tranquil, simple activities, such as unhurried grooming sessions, compared to how we spent time during our many years of long, challenging trail rides. As we move through the various seasons of our lives, we find new pathways to partnership.

Maybe you no longer have interest in riding, or you or your horse has an injury, preventing saddle time. Or perhaps your friends are going riding, but you’re having an off day and you’re just not feeling it. In either case, there’s nothing wrong with staying behind and spending time with your horse in another way.

Sometimes, it’s nice to just be with your horse.

How to Practice Mindful Grooming

Mindful grooming can be approached in several ways, depending on personal preference and your setup.

◆ Make the session feel special, much like you would when setting up for any special occasion. Your horse will sense the difference. Maybe it’s playing relaxing music in your barn, or thoughtfully setting out your grooming tools. I like to start and end my session by giving my horse a peppermint.

◆ Sessions can be done in complete silence, which can be a nice break and a counterbalance from all the noise in our lives. Horses live in a nonverbal world; sometimes it’s nice to join them there!

◆ Soft music can also be pleasant. Choose something soothing. I like to play Native American flute music; I find the sounds peaceful and ethereal.

◆ Before greeting your horse, take a few moments to become centered: be still, close your eyes, and breathe deeply, collecting and gathering yourself. Your horse will detect the difference when your energy is centered versus fragmented.

◆ Before grooming, take a moment to breathe with your horse. Stand next to him with grounded feet and place a hand on his chest, side, or near the nostrils, and breathe deeply—see if you can sync up your breathing. Not only does this calm and connect horse and human, but helps us become keenly aware that the same life-force energy flowing through us also flows through our horse (and all living things), interconnecting us on a deeper level.

◆ Begin your grooming regimen in whatever way you like, while staying attentive to what you’re doing. When your mind wanders from your task, notice that you’ve come out of the moment and bring your attention back. Use two tools to stay harnessed in the present: breath and bodily sensations. When you catch yourself mentally drifting, come back to those two things—they’re always there.

Often, we operate on auto pilot, but learning to stay in the present moment is a gift—that’s why it’s called the present.

◆ Pay attention to your horse’s response/body language. Is he showing signs of relaxing and enjoying the experience? Detect if there are specific areas where your horse likes or dislikes grooming, and adjust accordingly.

◆ See how much you can notice. When grooming, pay attention to the subtleties, smells, sounds, sensations and breath. Use this time as a meditative experience—a waking meditation.

◆ If you groom with others in a shared barn or with a riding group, perhaps suggest this as a group activity. Group energy can sometimes enhance the experience for all.

◆ The session can be as long or short as you’d like. It’s not about the quantity of time, but rather the quality of presence.

◆ In closing, thank and appreciate your horse for being part of your life and for being a “creature teacher.” We can learn so much from them by simply being in their company.

I hope you’ll give mindful grooming a try and continue to seek new ways to connect with your horse and the world around you in a deeper way.

Happy grooming! Your horse thanks you.

This article about mindful grooming appeared in the May 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Mindful Grooming appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Grooming Tips for a Shiny Coat

To get your horse shining like a superstar, regular grooming is essential. A few tips and tricks will help you get the most megawatts out of your grooming sessions.

If you’re going for the gleam, make good use of your curry comb or grooming gloves. Currying removes deep-down dirt, promotes circulation and helps distribute the natural oils in your horse’s coat. Plus, it’s like a mini-massage for your horse.

Follow with a medium-stiff brush, using short, brisk strokes with an upward flick to lift the dirt and loose hair you’ve brought up with your curry session. Finish with a soft brush to bring up the shine in your horse’s coat.

To achieve a truly healthy shine, your horse needs quality nutrition. Talk to your vet or an equine nutritionist to make sure your horse is on an optimal feeding plan. Supplements for skin and coat health can further boost glow with a blend of ingredients that usually include fats, vitamins and biotin to support hair growth and shine.

Horse Bathing Tips

Sometimes nothing will replace a proper bath when your horse has deep-down dirt in his coat. He’ll appreciate warm water if it’s available, which also opens the hair shaft to make your cleaning efforts more effective. An adjustable spray nozzle lets you dial the water pressure down for your horse’s sensitivity level as needed, and increase it for more efficient rinsing.

Diluting the shampoo in a bucket makes it easier to rinse from your horse’s coat. Some equine shampoos are concentrated and designed to be diluted before use, so read the directions on the product you are using. Quick grooming tip: work the shampoo down to your horse’s skin with grooming gloves or your fingers for a deep clean.

It’s usually not necessary to use shampoo on the face and head. You don’t want to get soap in your horse’s eyes, and it can be difficult to rinse out completely. A damp towel or sponge should be sufficient to clean your horse’s face.

For light-colored heads or white markings that need deeper cleaning, dip a sponge in diluted shampoo and follow up with a clean, damp rag to rinse.

Never use dish soap or other harsh detergents to bathe your horse. These will strip the oils from the coat and possibly irritate his sensitive skin. Equine shampoos and conditioners are formulated with a gentle pH while also being equipped to handle horses’ coarser hair coats and the tough dirt they get into.

It’s crucial to rinse well. Soap left in the coat dries it out, can cause itching and dandruff, and leaves a dull finish instead of the bright and shiny glow you want. To make sure your horse’s coat is soap-free, rinse and then use a sweat scraper to squeegee excess water from the coat. If you see soap bubbles, rinse and repeat until the water runs clear.

To repel stains from your horse’s clean coat and add extra shine, apply coat polish spray while he’s still damp. Horses don’t require a full bath that often; a rinse with plain water will usually suffice to remove dirt and sweat after a workout.

Unravel a Tangled Mane or Tail

The gentlest way to detangle is to do it by hand, although you can also use a wide-tooth plastic comb. A mane and tail detangler makes the job easier so that the strands of hair slip apart without snagging and breaking. Many coat polish spray products also double as detanglers.

Apply the product evenly through the hair. Then start detangling from the bottom of the hair, working your way up. Work in small, manageable sections. To remove burrs, foxtails and large knots, apply detangler directly to the problem areas.

Once you can easily run your fingers through the hair, you can use a brush or comb if you wish. If you opt to brush, hold the hair in one hand close to the top in order to avoid pulling on the root, and then brush below—again, working from the bottom up.

Tips for a Tidy Trim

Another key part to grooming your horse is trimming, so follow these tips.

Some light cleanup work with the clippers will take your horse’s look from shaggy to sleek. High-level competition often calls for a more stringent standard of trimming, but this isn’t necessary for most horses.

Small clippers with a No. 10 blade are sufficient for this simple trimming job. Make sure your horse will tolerate the sound and feel of the clippers before you start. You’ll be mainly clipping with the direction of the hair growth to remove just the longest hairs for a blended appearance. (Clipping against the growth gives a closer shave.) However, when trimming your horse, you may find that you need to turn the clippers and brush over the top of the hair at an angle in order to blend it.

To trim the billy-goat beard under your horse’s jaw, run the clippers underneath in the direction of the hair growth from between his jowls to the groove in front of his chin. Angle the clippers as needed to get all the hair and blend it at the edge of the jawline.

Clean up shaggy fetlocks and long, wispy hairs on the back of your horse’s legs using the clippers with the direction of the hair. Turn the clippers to scoop out all the shag underneath the fetlock joint and behind the pastern.

The hair in your horse’s ears provides protection from bugs and gnats in summer and offers warmth in winter, so it’s best to not remove too much if your horse lives out on pasture. Hold the ear in your hand, gently press the sides together and remove the long hairs that protrude beyond the edge of the ear with your clippers. This levels off the hair inside the ear with the outer edge.

Trimming a bridle path will also give your horse a neater look by removing a little mane behind the ears where the crownpiece of the bridle sits. Usually just a few inches is needed to accommodate the width of your bridle.

The whiskers on your horse’s muzzle have some sensory function, so many horse owners opt to leave these little feelers. Other horse owners prefer keep them clipped off during the show season, depending on the discipline.

Whiter Whites

Keeping your white or light-colored horse clean is a major grooming challenge, so here are tips for tackling those white hairs.

White socks and markings also require extra effort to stay sparkling. To keep stains from setting into the coat, keep up on regular grooming. Use waterless shampoos and spot removal products when bathing isn’t possible; just spray on and use a towel to lift the stain. Simple spot cleaning with a bucket and sponge works too.

A specially formulated whitening shampoo will be your best friend in the wash rack. These shampoos usually have a blue or purplish tint to counteract the yellow cast a stained white coat often takes. Read the product directions carefully so as to not leave behind a purple cast on your horse’s whites!

This article about horse grooming tips appeared in the May 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Horse Grooming Tips appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Winter is here, and that lovely horse of yours—the one who looked gorgeous at the summer shows—is now hiding in a wooly mammoth coat. But even if the two of you plan to lay low this winter, don’t assume that you’re off the hook for regular grooming.

Besides keeping your horse looking good (or as good as fuzzy can look), regular winter grooming provides health benefits, too. A dirty coat isn’t as effective at keeping your horse warm, so it’s important to stay on top of major mud stains and dirt year-round.

But what if it’s 25°F and bathing your horse is out of the question? Here are a few grooming tips for your horse this winter so that you can keep him looking his best, even during the coldest months of the year.

1. Loosen the dirt

Long coat or not, you can easily (well, sort of easily) remove a great deal of the dust, dirt, and dried mud stuck in your horse’s long coat.

◆ Start with a curry comb or grooming gloves. While a basic curry comb is a good tool any time of year for removing muddy debris and dust, elbow grease is essential in the winter for removing dust and dirt from deep in your horse’s coat. Grooming gloves are similar, but they allow for a closer feel of your horse’s curved surfaces and can also be used on the face and legs.

◆ Try a shedding blade. The same shedding blade that comes in handy during your horse’s spring shed-out also works well to etch off those big dried mud stains.

2. Remove the dirt

But simply loosening the dust and dirt isn’t enough; you need to remove it as well.

◆ Brush with a flicking motion. A stiff-bristled dandy brush can be quite helpful for removing most of the dust you shook loose with the currycomb. Use your wrists to flick away all that dust. Softer body brushes can also be useful, and their gentle touch is required around your horse’s legs.

◆ Try a vacuum. If he’s cooperative with the idea (and it may take some careful training to get him there), using a horse-safe vacuum can be an excellent—and dry!—way to remove more dirt than you could probably achieve with brushing alone.

Some horse vacuums come with brush-like attachments to help you safely whisk away the dirt. This just might be your ideal winter bathing replacement, especially if you plan to attend a winter show, clinic, or other event.

3. Use a spot stain remover

During the summer, we often break out the hose to deal with things like sweat stains and green manure spots. If the temperatures are too cold for that, you may still be able to perform some spot cleaning without getting your horse very wet.

◆ Use a commercial product. Sometimes called a “waterless bath” or “waterless shampoo,” these products are (obviously) still moist, so you may have to avoid applying them on frigid winter days. But for mild winter days, these products can be a great way to clean your horse without soaking his entire coat, and they’re often quite effective at removing unsightly stains.

This technique may be more effective on clipped horses or those with naturally short winter coats, rather than super-fuzzy animals. After application, dry the spot with a soft towel.

◆ Try a home solution. For small stains, you might be able to clean them with a small towel dipped in rubbing alcohol, but you don’t want to overdo this method as it can dry out the horse’s coat.

4. Maintain manes and tails

Regular mane and tail grooming regimens apply to your horse in the winter just the same as the summer, but there are a couple of extra tips for preventive measures you can take:

◆ Try a mud knot for tails. Depending on your climate, mud can be a significant issue in the winter, but you can help protect your horse’s tail by using a simple mud knot. It will protect his tail and save on grooming time.

◆ Keep his mane shorter. If it’s too cold to use mane detangler, try to keep your horse’s mane combed frequently. You can make the job even easier by shortening his mane during the winter to limit the amount of mud and debris that it entangles.

5. Think about hooves

Locations that experience prolonged temperatures below freezing may develop hard, frozen ground. This can be very difficult on your horse.

◆ Talk to your farrier. If the frozen ground is uneven and painful for your horse to walk on, your farrier may recommend making temporary adjustments, such as shoeing a normally barefoot horse or adding borium for traction to steel shoes.

◆ Watch out for snowballs. When bringing your horse into the stable after turnout, be sure to remove any packed snow that has developed on his soles; this can be quite uncomfortable for him to walk on. This happens particularly with shod horses—look into having your farrier add snow pads if this is a frequent problem.

6. Be a weight watcher

Keep in mind that a thick winter coat can make it much more challenging to estimate your horse’s body condition.

◆ Use your hands to “see.” Use your regular grooming sessions to examine your horse’s body weight by using your hands to feel for areas around his hips or ribs that might not have enough body fat coverage.

Not only will an underweight horse suffer more in cold temperatures, but it can also be difficult to increase his weight when he’s using extra calories just to stay warm. It’s better to catch winter weight loss early.

Just because your horse is a little woolier this time of year doesn’t mean you should forego regular grooming sessions and health checks. A little bit of routine work can go a long way toward keeping him looking good. Before you know it, he’ll be shedding out that winter coat—and you’ll be covered in it instead!

Horse Grooming Tips for the Winter Rider If you ride during the winter, you have another set of challenges to deal with. Groom the right spots: Take extra care to remove any dried debris or mud from your horse’s saddle, girth and bridle areas. This will help your horse avoid any uncomfortable chaffing. Cool out properly: Because the insulating hairs of the winter coat prevent the heat from escaping effectively, expect to find sweat marks under your horse’s girth and saddle pad even when the thermometer dips below freezing. Be sure to put a cooler on your horse until he’s dry to prevent him from becoming chilled. Consider a body clip: If you ride heavily in any climate throughout the winter, your horse will sweat a lot and probably take too long to dry without hours of work. In this situation, a partial body clip (like a trace or blanket clip) is the way to go. Partial clips leave some natural coat for the cold weather and remove the areas that sweat most. Keep these tips in mind for body clipping: ◆ Make sure to use clippers that are specifically designed for body clipping, not small face and leg trimmers. ◆ Have one or two freshly sharpened or brand-new sets of blades ready to go. ◆ Start with a squeaky-clean horse: bathe with shampoo in a heated wash rack, or bucket bathe with heated water. To bucket bathe, scrub back and forth against hair grain with well wrung-out towels, switching out frequently for clean ones. Make sure your horse is completely dry before clipping, and have winter blankets ready for stabling and turnout. Check out this article for more detailed steps to a great body clip.

The post 6 Winter Grooming Tips appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Have you ever tried to braid your horse’s mane for a show and gotten so frustrated that you begged a friend for help or ended up paying someone to do it for you?

Braiding a horse’s mane is not overly difficult, but one adage holds true: Practice makes perfect. If you want to have beautiful, even braids, don’t wait until the night before a show to start learning. It takes most people a few fully braided manes to develop an efficient technique.

My preference is for “hunter bump” yarn braids because I find them easier to put in and take out than round braids sewn in with thread. This type of braid is a good all-purpose style that can be used for hunter/jumper, eventing and dressage horses. Yarn also securely holds in braids without damaging the hair.

Pulling the Mane Before Braiding

Before you braid, you’ll need to pull your horse’s mane to thin out the hair and even the length. If he has very thin hair, you can probably get by using scissors (held vertically, never cutting straight across) or an old clipper blade to even out the length. For horses with thick hair, however, you need to pull the mane until it is thinned out and about 4 inches in length. Thick hair makes yarn braiding nearly impossible.

If your horse is sensitive about having his mane pulled, do just a small section of pulling every day for a week or so to keep him from getting too worked up. It also helps to pull after you’ve ridden, as body heat tends to open the pores and make the hair less painful to remove.

In extreme cases, it may be necessary to have your vet administer a small amount of tranquilizer to get the job done. Pulling should be done every four to six weeks to keep up the short, thin mane necessary for braiding.

Using Yarn to Braid a Horse’s Mane

Note: In the photos, the horse’s mane lies to the left and is braided to the left. This is acceptable for eventing and dressage horses, but hunters prefer to train and braid the mane to the right.

◆ STEP 1. Assemble all of your braiding equipment. Tie your horse safely and comfortably so he can’t wander off, either on cross-ties or in his stall. Have a hay net nearby to distract him and increase his patience, if necessary. Stand on a sturdy stool or mounting block so you can easily reach your horse’s mane. NOTE: We used white yarn in our equine model’s black mane so that it would be more visible in the photos. For a show, use yarn that matches the color of your horse’s mane.

◆ STEP 2. Starting at the top of the mane, just behind the bridle path, wet down and comb a section of hair approximately two to three fingers wide, or 1 to 2 inches. You can use water, but there are grippy braiding spray products available that really make things easier. Use your comb to make a razor-sharp part, and keep the rest of the mane out of your way with a hair clip.

◆ STEP 3. Begin braiding downward (as opposed to out toward yourself), pulling each section of hair out to the side as you work your way down for maximum tightness. When you get about halfway down the braid, place the middle of a piece of yarn under the bottom of the braided section. Incorporate one half of the yarn into one section of the braid. Do two more crosses of the braid, then incorporate the other half of the yarn into the third of the three sections. Continue braiding as far down the hair as possible.

◆ STEP 4. Tie off the yarn at the bottom of the braid with a single slip knot, pulling tightly.

◆ STEP 5. Slide your pull-through down into the top and center of the braid at the crest; thread the free ends of the yarn through it and pull them out through the top of the mane. The braid will now be folded in half.

◆ STEP 6. Use the free ends of the yarn to make a simple square knot under the braid and pull tightly.

◆ STEP 7. Push up a “bump” so a knob of the braid is visible along the crest of the neck, with the rest of the braid in a small, folded loop below the bump. Tie another tight square knot on the “waist” of the braid (between the bump and the loop).

◆ STEP 8. Make another knot around the waist of the braid, this time behind it. Pull tightly, and use scissors to trim the yarn tails a couple of millimeters from the knot.

I like to braid the entire mane with the braids hanging down first, then go back down the neck to pull the braids up and “bump” them, making my yarn knots. My third and final pass is to trim the yarn tails with scissors. Finally, I braid the forelock using the same method, although it may require French braiding for the first few rows if the forelock is large and unruly. I don’t like to pull or shorten forelocks, but that is certainly an option.

Don’t get discouraged if your braids don’t look perfect the first time. Keep practicing, and beautiful, even braids are sure to follow.

The post Upgrade Your Horse’s Mane Braids appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

One such horse presented a classic case of “chestnut mare, beware” to anyone approaching her with a curry or brush. She was a kid’s lesson horse, but it was anything but child’s play to groom her. It wasn’t a good situation for the kids, and because of her objections to grooming, the mare was in real danger of saddle sores and rub spots on her withers, recalls professional equine groom Cat Hill, co-author of World Class Grooming for Horses.

“Everyone would just sort of barely dust her off,” she says.

But thanks to some time and effort to address the situation, and finding the right tools, the mare has come around to tolerating it. And while grooming may never be on her list of favorite activities, any of the school kids can brush her now as long as they use her special grooming kit, shares Hill.

So if your horse hates being groomed, there’s hope. We’ll look at some reasons horses object to grooming and what you can do to help with the expertise of Hill and veterinarian Jenny Biehunko, DVM, of Veterinary Behavior Consultants of Alabama in Pelham, Ala., who is a resident ACVB specializing in behavioral medicine.

Physical Causes

While horses all have innate levels of sensitivity and individual preference in how they like to be handled and groomed, pain is the first thing to explore.

“If you have a horse that’s reactive to grooming, you certainly want to make sure there’s not a medical reason for that,” says Biehunko. “Especially if you have a horse that previously didn’t have a problem with a certain procedure and suddenly does, that’s a big red flag to me that we may have some medical issues going on.”

Hill agrees that when horses hate being groomed, they are often trying to tell you they have an underlying pain issue somewhere in their body.

“Back pain, ulcer pain, and tooth pain all can cause a horse to be quite reactive and quite sore,” says Hill. “Vitamin E deficiency or Lyme disease can also make a horse very muscle sore, which can make grooming very uncomfortable.”

Try to notice if the pain is specific to one area, which might indicate an injury, or seems to be a whole-body issue.

According to Biehunko, there are a plethora of medical issues to consider.

Selenium/magnesium imbalances can cause horses to be painful. Other culprits may include neurologic issues, such as equine protozoal myeloencephalitis (EPM).

Skin issues are a big one, such as rain rot, fungal and bacterial infections, and parasites (such as lice). With mares, Biehunko notes that reproductive tract issues can often affect the back muscles, resulting in discomfort and pain with saddling, riding and grooming.

Tools & Techniques

Some horses hate being groomed because of the way you’re grooming or the tools you’re using. Try not to take it personally! Instead, listen to the animal, and be willing to adapt and find a way that works.

“I have about 25 different currycombs in my kit, and I have lots of different brushes,” says Hill. “Sometimes it’s just finding the tools that a specific horse likes.”
Hands-On Grooming Gloves are among her favorites, as well as cactus cloth, a coarse cloth woven from cactus fibers.

“I happen to love using a cactus cloth as a currycomb on a really sensitive horse—you can get a nice, deep curry,” she says. In the case of the school horse that Hill knew that couldn’t be brushed, the cactus cloth proved to be the key to making her happy.

Another tool Hill likes to try with sensitive horses is the long-bristled “sweep” or “flick” brushes, as she finds that the long bristles help spread out the impact.

Finding out how your horse prefers to be touched can also be extremely helpful.

“Sometimes we’re too rough, but I also think that with horses, sometimes we’re not firm enough with our brushing, and it tickles,” says Biehunko. “Sometimes harder is the answer, and sometimes it’s not. Ask the animal. The animal will tell you whether something is comfortable or uncomfortable.”

Here are a few techniques that Hill recommends for these sensitive-skinned equine souls.

Reverse Curry: While we are often taught to start grooming at the front of the horse and move rearward, Hill says that many horses find that to be an invasion of personal space. Instead, she suggests reversing the process.

“A lot of times, sensitive horses don’t mind their hindquarters being brushed—in fact, they often like it,” she reveals. Starting your curry session on the hindquarters where there’s a large muscle mass that may be a less reactive area for the horse and can make them feel a little more comfortable as you start the grooming process.

Different Strokes: A common mistake Hill sees that makes a horse hate grooming is pushing the brush too hard into the horse in an attempt to be vigorous.

“Some horses really don’t like that ‘thump’ when you put your hand down quickly,” she says. “It can be startling and cause the muscles to tense and be painful.”

Instead, she says, the “sweep” motion of the brush is what needs to be vigorous.

A Location Situation

In addition to how you’re grooming, where the grooming sessions take place can be part of why your horse hates grooming. With a horse that tap dances in the cross-ties during grooming, you need to figure out whether it’s the cross-ties, the environment, or the grooming process itself that’s causing difficulty. Grooming your horse in a different location is a simple step to try to make things better.

“Horses are incredibly good associative learners, and maybe something happened in that particular area in the past that they associate with something bad, so try a different environment,” says Biehunko.

Equine bullies nearby can be another source of angst when a horse is in a confined position for grooming. Sometimes the cross-ties themselves can put a horse in a physical position where he has trouble standing or balancing—especially for a young horse, a neurologic horse, or a horse that is simply not familiar with cross-ties.

Finding the Sweet Spot

What you’re ideally looking for when you groom your horse is a relationship-building process, as well as a get-your-horse-clean process, says Hill, noting that grooming between two horses is a fairly intimate relationship—it’s not something that’s done between two strange horses.

With that in mind, almost every horse has a spot where they enjoy being groomed or scratched. Hill suggests using your currycomb to find it and build positive associations.

“Once you find the magic spot, try to spend a little time there, and let them know that grooming can feel good,” she says. “I’ll often try to finish with the spot they really like. I’ll wait until the end of my grooming session, and I’ll spend a little extra time grooming there.”

Biehunko is a big fan of hanging out in the pasture with her horses and getting to know what they like.

“I do a lot of that, and I’ve done that with all the foals I’ve raised. It’s just touching in different places and sort of asking, watching their body language: ‘Do you like being scratched here, do you like being scratched harder, do you like being scratched softer; oh, you don’t like being touched there, OK that’s the area we need to work on.’ So just play! Play with your horse.”

Listening to the Horse

Learning to recognize and respond to a horse’s more subtle body language around grooming can help prevent increasing issues with a horse that hates grooming. Once he realizes that you are listening to him and honoring that body language, he doesn’t have to shout because you’re listening to his whispers, says Biehunko.

“The horses that are biting, if we can teach them ‘I’m listening to you at a lower level,’ maybe they don’t feel like they need to get so snappy,” she says. A harsh response to negative behavior is counterproductive.

“Punishing a horse for saying, ‘Ouch, that hurts,’ often escalates the behavior because they are, in their language, trying to say to you they don’t like that, and if you punish that behavior, then the next time they’ll say it a little louder and a little ruder,” says Hill.

Both experts agree that if a horse is exhibiting dangerous behavior, you should definitely not push the issue, and find a professional to help.

“Think of grooming as important as the ride when it comes to a training issue,” urges Hill.

Not every horse will love being groomed, and that’s OK. You can still find a way to get the job done safely while lowering the stress level for both of you.

“If you’ve got a horse that really doesn’t enjoy the process, you can do a minimal, but effective, groom as often as possible so that you’re not constantly pushing him, doing the job that’s necessary for hygiene and maintenance, but not going overboard,” says Hill. “The relationship works two ways. Maybe you’re someone who really loves to groom and pet and snuggle with a horse, but if you have a horse [that’s not into it], respect that and let them be who they are.”

This article with tips for when a horse hates grooming appeared in the May 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Tips for When a Horse Hates Being Groomed appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

During the coldest days of winter, you layer on thermals, fleece, insulated coveralls, and maybe even a headlamp to go out to the barn. There, your horse is sporting layers of his own, including a winter coat and possibly also a wardrobe of blankets. When the weather is miserable, it can be tempting to rush through barn chores. However, to ensure that your horse has good hair days as well as good health this winter, here’s what the experts recommend when it comes to grooming and blanketing.

Why Do Grooming in Winter?

Even if you’re not riding much in the winter, grooming your horse during this season is still important.

“Grooming is the best connection to your horse,” says former Olympic groom Liv Gude, founder of ProEquineGrooms.com. She sees grooming as a fantastic opportunity to check on your horse’s health, including his skin condition, vital signs, and leg and hoof health, in addition to spending quality time together and being able to provide mental enrichment.

Gude recommends checking vital signs daily, including digital pulses. (A strong digital pulse on the inside of the ankle may indicate a stone bruise, brewing abscess or laminitis.) Other daily winter “must-dos” include grooming the entire horse with grooming gloves and a brush, plus a thorough, hands-on inspection. She looks for swellings, scrapes, soreness, and anything abnormal.

Lisa Nesson, DVM, of Irongate Equine Clinic in Madison, Wisc., agrees that winter grooming is an important way to monitor your horse’s skin and coat condition, and can give clues to the health of the horse.

“Grooming allows you to go over your horse from head to toe looking for any issues,” she says, adding that owners should pay special attention to the legs and undersides. “It also helps you keep track of his body condition score, assessing if he’s losing or gaining concerning amounts of weight during the cold winter months.”

General body condition and weight are important to monitor all times of year, she says, but particularly when horses are dealing with colder weather.

Blanket Decisions

As the days become shorter, your horse begins growing his winter hair. This winter coat is well-designed by nature to keep your horse warm—with a few exceptions.

“The winter hair coat is typically a thicker coat, which helps keep the horse warm by providing a greater amount of insulation,” explains Nesson. “This occurs due to the longer hairs as well as the increased ability for the horse to hold the hair on end, which creates a pocket of warm air against the skin. Anything that prevents the hair from standing on end can limit the horse’s ability to self-regulate his temperature and stay warm. This includes things such as rain, blankets and heavy snow.”

It’s important to consider your horse’s individual needs when it comes to blanketing. Nesson reminds that a horse in good body weight with an adequate winter coat who is otherwise healthy and is provided adequate forage and shelter can do just fine without a blanket, but there are various instances where blanketing might be recommended.

“If the horse is underweight or struggling to maintain a healthy weight, I would recommend blanketing him when the temperatures are below freezing,” she says. “Blanketing can also assist with insulation. If there is inclement weather, or sudden changes in weather that the horse may not yet be physiologically prepared for, he should be blanketed.”

Gude makes blanket decisions on a case-by-case basis for each horse.

“For a fat, retired horse living near the North Pole that resembles a woolly mammoth, I won’t use a blanket,” she says. “For the same horse that’s a hard keeper and loses weight in the winter, I would.”

Blanket Right

Blanketing your horse shouldn’t be complicated, but it does require a level of care and attention. According to Nesson, a common mistake many owners make is using blankets that are an inappropriate weight for the weather or the horse.

“Lighter-weight blankets may be necessary in fall and spring months, while you may need to rotate in a heavier blanket during winter months and cold spells,” she says.

Nesson also emphasizes the importance of removing the blanket throughout the winter to get eyes on your horse and assess his condition.

“I see horses that have either gotten too thin or too overweight under their blankets during the winter, and it’s not noted nor addressed until spring when the blanket is removed,” she says. “We also see frequent rubs, sores and entanglements when horses wear poorly fitted blankets—getting the correct size and checking fit is very important.”

You’ll also want to look for clues that your horse is comfortable in his blanket—not too warm, not too cold, but just right. And look for rub, which can show poor fit.

“The signs of inappropriate blanket weight are typically shivering or sweating,” says Nesson. “Blankets are rated for the temperature that they should protect above, so select a blanket for the weather you are anticipating, and remember, it may change.”

Keep Clean and Curry On

When it comes to grooming, your horse’s winter coat can be a little high maintenance.

If a horse in the northern U.S. is ridden to the point of sweat, Gude clips areas where they sweat the most and uses blankets. For a horse in the southern U.S. that grows a long coat and sweats by just existing, even in the shade, she clips and uses lighter sheets as needed.

“Plan on more time curry combing,” says Gude. “Use a vacuum if you have one. Do some more curry combing. Use spot removers as needed. Pick up the curry comb and go to town again. Perhaps use a stiffer and longer brush to lift off all of the dust from your horse. Curry yet again.”

To maintain a good grooming, sheets and blankets are an essential part of Gude’s winter grooming strategy. In addition to convenience for the rider, she believes it contributes to a cleaner, and possibly healthier, horse.

“A sheet or blanket helps keep dirt and dust from your horse’s winter coat,” she says. “There’s not as much dirt and dust trapped in a long winter coat, which saves grooming time and can help ward off skin problems. The sheet also acts like a physical barrier to stains and can allow you to ride if your horse has been standing out in the rain, as they do.”

To Clip or Not to Clip?

If your horse’s coat is causing him to overheat or become a sweaty mess, requiring hours to cool out, you should consider body clipping. Clipping to address the sweaty areas does a couple of things for your horse.

“He will be better able to thermoregulate, as the sweat can do its job of evaporating and cooling his body without so much hair,” says Gude. “A horse that’s wet from sweat is hot under his thick coat. When you stop his exercise, he’s a wet horse in the cold air, which can take his temp too low. If the sweat is evaporating in the clipped areas, he won’t need lots of hand-walking, coolers, towel drying, and time to dry off after exercise. No sweat also means that his hair won’t be holding onto moisture, which can often pave the way for bacterial infections of the skin.”

For a horse in the southern U.S. that grows a long coat and sweats by just existing, even in the shade, she clips and uses lighter sheets as needed. Although clipping can seem like a big hairy deal, Gude has some reassuring advice.

“If clipping your horse helps him be healthier and more comfortable, you should clip him,” says Gude. “Clipping isn’t an all-or-nothing deal; it’s customizable to each and every horse and climate. You can use any pattern that you like. Maybe it’s a pattern you concoct. It doesn’t have to match a pattern you saw on the internet. You can also use clipper combs and guides to take a little off the top instead of clipping all the way to the skin.”

Body clipping isn’t just for show horses; it can also be beneficial for your horse’s comfort.

“Don’t skip on clipping if your horse is sweating beyond a comfortable state, either because of exercise or the climate,” Gude advises.

If you clip, remember that you’ll need to be committed and attentive to appropriate blanketing for the weather conditions. (See “Dress Your Horse for the Weather” below.)

Ultimately, Gude’s main rule of blanketing is that your horse should get a blanket if he needs a blanket.

“Take it back to the health and comfort of your individual horse,” says Gude. “There aren’t any hard and fast rules. If you do decide to use sheets and blankets, you must take them off daily for grooming, and they are not a replacement for good care.”

Dress Your Horse for the Weather Few people are more weather-aware than horse owners, especially in the winter. Although a horse’s age, health, body condition and access to shelter are all part of the equation for blanket decisions, weather is a constant variable. To blanket your horse appropriately for the weather conditions, the experts at SmartPak offer the following general guidelines: ◆ Light turnout: clipped (40–50 degrees), unclipped (30–40 degrees) ◆ Medium turnout: clipped (30–40 degrees), unclipped (20–30 degrees) ◆ Heavy turnout: clipped (20–30 degrees), unclipped (10–20 degrees) Temperature isn’t the only weather factor to keep in mind during blanket season, however. “Rain and wind can have a big impact on your horse’s ability to retain heat,” says Clare Silke, product innovation manager for Horseware Ireland. “Horses will lose considerably more heat when they’re wet or there’s a strong wind. Offering your horse a waterproof layer can act to help keep core temperature consistent and help protect against skin and coat irritations, such as rain scald.” The regional climate and weather conditions your horse is accustomed to also play a role, influencing the setpoint where he can maintain warmth without using additional energy. This explains why horses in warmer climates often “get dressed” at milder temperatures than horses in colder areas, says SmartPak’s team of blanket pros. As the weather changes, Silke advises monitoring the daily conditions and the way your horse reacts. Knowing what’s normal for your particular horse—from vital signs to behavior and attitude—will help you gauge his comfort and adjust your blanketing decisions accordingly.

Blanket Fit Basics A well-fitting blanket will keep your horse warm and comfy, but an ill-fitting blanket can restrict movement, cause rubs, shift, or get tangled. Here is a guide to the basics on finding the right fit. Measure First To measure your horse for a blanket, start at the center of your horse’s chest and run a cloth tape measure along his side to the point of the buttocks where the “cheek” meets the tail. Include the widest part of his shoulder, and keep the tape measure level and taut. The number of inches is your horse’s true size. Fit Checkpoints Clare Silke, product innovation manager for Horseware Ireland, believes correct adjustment of the front fastenings is one of the biggest contributors to blanket fit, so she pays special attention to this area, in addition to the overall fit of the blanket. SmartPak’s blanketing pros suggest watching your horse walk and graze in the blanket, as these natural movements will highlight flaws in the fit. Here are the key fit checkpoints our blanket experts recommend: ◆ The top front strap should align with the top of the horse’s point of shoulder. ◆ The neckline of the blanket should lie smoothly above the shoulder. ◆ Fabric at the front of a blanket should overlap. ◆ Chest straps should be adjusted to where there is still room to slide a hand easily inside the blanket and around the horse’s neck and shoulder without feeling any tightness or pressure. Silke likes both the top and bottom strap fastened to the same hole to allow freedom of movement. ◆ Standard-neck blankets should sit slightly ahead of the withers—Silke recommends approximately 2 to 4 inches. ◆ You should also be able to slide one hand between the blanket and your horse’s withers. A blanket that’s pulled tight across your horse’s withers is a recipe for rubs, say SmartPak’s pros. ◆ The blanket should cover your horse’s barrel entirely, ideally ending just below his elbow and stifle. “Not a mini skirt, and not a bed skirt” is the advice from SmartPak. Blankets that are too loose are less secure and can cause excessive rubbing. Silke advises following the “one hand rule”— you should be able to fit your hand between your horse and the blanket when done up correctly. She also reminds owners to check the fit of straps regularly, as they can stretch or ease out over time and may require readjustment.

This article about winter grooming and blanketing appeared in the November/December 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Weathering a Winter Wonderland: Expert Strategies for Winter Grooming and Blanketing Your Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

That’s why it’s crucial for horse owners to learn to identify the causes and clinical signs of common dermatitis. By educating yourself about them, you can quickly and correctly treat the problem. Your horse will thank you!

A Healthy Skin Barrier

According to Rosanna Marsella, DVM, a veterinary dermatologist at the University of Florida in Gainesville, Fla., the key to preventing many problematic skin conditions is to protect your horse’s skin from trauma.

Grooming your horse on a daily basis can help keep your horse’s skin and hair healthy, but it’s also important to provide horses with adequate shelter from the elements, as well as protection from biting insects. When trauma occurs to the skin, your horse becomes more susceptible to bacterial or fungal infections.

“Animals who are immunosuppressed, or out in the rain day in and day out, or getting bitten by bugs, experience more trauma to the skin,” Marsella explains. “If the skin has no insect bites and the horse isn’t itchy and rubbing himself on a tree, for example, then the integrity of the skin barrier remains intact.”

Fight Flies

In addition to practicing good grooming habits to keep your horse’s skin and hair healthy, invest in a good fly product to prevent bites.

“Use of effective fly repellent is key, and that’s actually a topic that frequently confuses many people,” says Marsella. “The labels on some products may make them sound like repellents when they’re actually insecticides. If you spray an insecticide directly on an insect, it dies. But insecticide doesn’t prevent the insect from actually landing on the horse. That’s why you need to use repellent.”

When you’re looking for fly repellent, Marsella recommends checking the active ingredient listed as well as the percentage of the active ingredient.

“One example is permethrin,” she says. “In order to be a repellent, a fly spray product has to be at least 0.5 or 1 percent permethrin. But if a product only has 0.1 percent permethrin, then it’s not a repellent.”

For horses who may be allergic to chemicals, Marsella recommends trying botanical products, such as neem oil.

“Neem oil is a demonstrated repellent against mosquitos and no-see-ums,” says Marsella.

There’s another benefit to a daily routine of grooming and using fly repellent. By laying your hands on your horse every day, you’ll learn what’s normal for him and what’s not. Then you can spot skin issues in the making before they ever become full-blown problems.
There are many different skin conditions in horses, often with multiple contributing factors. Some horses can develop secondary issues, such as staph infections, which may require prolonged medical treatment from a veterinarian. If you suspect your horse is developing a skin condition, call your vet immediately.

Cannon Crud Cannon keratosis is often used to refer to “cannon crud,” or the development of flaky skin and oily build-up of keratin on the front of the cannon bones. But there’s also a genetic condition known as primary cannon keratosis. “Primary cannon keratosis is not common,” says Rosanna Marsella, DVM, a veterinary dermatologist at the University of Florida in Gainesville, Fla. “There are some horses that are genetically prone to this disease. The skin has a different way of maturing in some body areas, including on the cannon bone. This is not an infection. Horses with primary cannon keratosis will be genetically prone to it, and they will always have a little bit of crusty skin in that area. The treatment is management using shampoos to soften and loosen up the scabs. These horses can also get keratosis on their sides or chest.” For the non-genetic form of cannon keratosis, gently groom your horse’s legs with a curry comb and wash with an keratolytic shampoo to help manage crusty scabs and flaky skin.

Rain Rot

Rain rot is caused by the bacterium Dermatophilus congolensis. Characterized by small, round scabs crowned with matted hair, rain rot lesions typically develop along the topline of the horse.

“The development of the disease is precipitated by moisture, which is why we call it ‘rain rot,’” says Marsella. “It’s common in animals who are immunosuppressed or out in the rain and bitten by insects. Dermatophilus can access the skin when there’s trauma. Don’t pick at the scabs, because it’s painful for your horse and also delays healing. When the scabs are ready and the skin underneath is healthy, the scabs will come off on their own. But pulling a scab off and leaving a raw spot is never the answer.”

Rain rot is contagious and zoonotic, which means that other horses and humans can contract the condition. Marsella recommends treating rain rot with an antimicrobial shampoo, such as chlorhexidine or benzoyl peroxide.

“People can be overzealous and like to scrub at the lesions, because they think it will speed up the recovery, but the single most important thing is contact time,” says Marsella. “Apply the shampoo, gently massage it in, and then set your clock for 10 minutes and go do something else. Then come back and rinse. Contact time is what really makes the difference.”

Scratches

Pastern dermatitis, or scratches, is a name for a clinical syndrome, rather than a specific disease. Another common name for scratches is “dew poisoning.” Pastern dermatitis refers to the development of scabby areas on or near the pasterns. Two of the most common causes of pastern dermatitis include bacterial infections and mange.

“Pastern dermatitis can be caused by a lot of different things, including allergies, auto-immune diseases, staph infections or vasculitis,” Marsella explains. “It’s common on horses with white legs or horses with feathers. When an owner has a horse with pastern dermatitis, they can use an anti-microbial shampoo because there’s probably an overgrowth of bacteria.”

In addition to treating for bacteria, owners can protect horses with white legs from pastern dermatitis by covering the legs with socks or wraps.

“Products like antimicrobial silver socks may help, but more importantly, the sock also protects the skin from UV exposure,” says Marsella. “Vasculitis is triggered by UV rays. You can either put socks on your horse or keep him inside during the day and turned out at night. Many cases of pastern dermatitis also have an insect component, so it’s important to use repellent.”

Mites can also cause pastern dermatitis in horses with feathers. Mites can spread from horse to horse and can also survive in the environment for several weeks.

“Feathered horses are prone to mites, and they get very itchy legs as a result,” says Marsella. “Some horses may become itchier than others because they develop allergies to the mites. When you have mites, you’ve got mange. To treat mange, you have to kill the mites with a treatment like a lime sulfur dip. If a horse is diagnosed with mites, everybody in contact has to get treated whether they’re symptomatic or not. The life cycle of the mite is three weeks, so treatment has to be at least that long.”

Ringworm

Ringworm is a common skin infection caused by a fungus, not a parasite. Ringworm presents as round, raised lesions on the skin that may be itchy.

“They call it ‘ringworm’ because it will develop a round lesion on the skin, but it’s actually caused by a fungus,” Marsella explains. “It is transmissible, so you need to treat the horse for it.”

Ringworm can be transmitted from horse to horse by direct contact or by sharing infected tack, brushes, clothing or other equipment between horses. Marsella recommends using an antifungal treatment, such as a lime sulfur dip, to treat ringworm.

“Lime sulfur is very effective at killing fungi and helps with the itching,” says Marsella. “It will also kill mites.”

Dealing with any kind of skin condition—especially before it gets out of hand—not only allows your horse to look his best, but it helps him stay comfortable, happy, and itch-free.

This article about equine dermatitis appeared in the September 2020 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Scratch That: Stop Equine Skin Problems at the Root appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Giving your horse a bath might seem like a simple task, but there is definitely an art and a science to doing a good job. Read on to learn how to bathe a horse AND find out the tips and tricks that pro grooms use. When I was a professional groom, I learned a ton by readying four horses for shows every weekend. (Hint: the gray horse took at least twice as much effort as the bays and chestnuts!)

STEP 1: Gather all of your bathing materials together. You will need: a bucket, sponge, rag, grooming gloves or bath mitt, shampoo, conditioner, sweat scraper, comb and a towel. If your horse is gray or has lots of white markings, invest in a separate whitening shampoo.

STEP 2: Heated water will make all the difference in your horse’s cleanliness and comfort, if available. Spray him from neck to hooves with warm water to thoroughly wet him down. Dunk your sponge into a large bucket of warm water, lightly wring it out, put about a tablespoon of shampoo on it, and get the suds going. Rub the sponge all over your horse, adding more shampoo and water as necessary.

STEP 3: Use your grooming glove or bath mitt to scrub the shampoo down to the skin; switch to whitening shampoo on the white markings and areas (and let those sit a little longer).

STEP 4: Rub some shampoo between your hands and work it into the crest of the mane and the tailbone.

STEP 5: The rinse is the most important step. Using warm water on the highest pressure stream your horse will comfortably tolerate, start at the top of his neck and go with the hair direction down his back and legs. Make sure to use your fingers on his mane and tailbone to get all the residue out. Repeat your rinse to get all the way down to the skin until no suds remain.

STEP 6: Run your sweat scraper from head to toe to squeeze the water out of the hair.

STEP 7: Massage conditioner into the mane and tail; re-suds the white areas and markings and let the soap sit for a few minutes if they still look yellow- or green-stained.

STEP 8: Use a sponge or rag to wet down your horse’s face. Don’t spray it with the hose! Suds up your sponge and gently massage his face, paying extra attention to white markings. Avoid the eye area.

STEP 9: Dunk a clean sponge or rag into water, wring a little water out, and wipe down the face a few times until no soap remains.

STEP 10: Rinse conditioner and remaining whitening shampoo off; follow up with the sweat scraper. Rub with a dry towel to get more water off if it’s cold or your horse has long winter hair. Carefully comb out his mane and tail.

That’s it! You’ve learned how to bathe a horse. Now graze your horse in the sun until he’s dry so he doesn’t immediately roll and undo all of your work. Put a sheet on him if he lives in a stall, especially if you want him to stay extra-clean for an upcoming show.

This article about how to bathe a horse appeared in the Summer 2020 issue of Young Rider magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Bathe a Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.