The Basics of Good Arena Footing

The ideal footing needs to:

• Have traction
• Have no dust
• Have cushioning
• Deter injuries
• Boost performance
• Provide stability
• Provide rebound energy (the responsiveness and resiliency of the footing surface to return it its original form by returning energy back to the horse)

Factors that make footing poor quality include:

• Too deep
• Too hard
• Too uneven
• Too loose
• Too dusty
• Non-draining
• Slippery

There are three primary layers to arenas: the top footing, the sub-surface, and the base.

Sand is the most popular surface used across the world, both with and without synthetic fibers added. Others include wood chips/sawdust, rubber chips, grass, and dirt. The sub-surface has many options: a drainage layer, grid-mats, compacted stone, sand, or another manufactured material. Most bases are made out of clay, stone dust, and the natural native soil of the property.

What the arena is made of, how much traffic goes through it, precipitation and temperature all play a part in keeping an arena safe.

Different arenas have different requirements to keep them in peak performance, but most require the following:

• Watering regularly
• Regular dragging and grooming
• Removal of manure, urine and other organic material
• Adding new sand
• Raking upkeep
• Picking out weeds, rocks and other debris

Sand and Fiber Footing

Cynthia Brewster Keating is the national director of sales and marketing director for GGT-Footing. For more than 25 years, Polysols, the parent company of GGT-Footing, has been producing innovative equestrian footing products for riding arenas.

“The arena footing products are repurposed remnant virgin material that’s used to make various fibers and textile blends,” says Keating. “The focus is on developing the best combination of synthetic chopped non-woven material and combining it with the highest-quality sands from quarries across the county.

“The different disciplines require a different amount of tightness in the sand,” she adds. “The pleasure blend has minimal fiber and is designed to keep the sand fluffy. The dressage blend has 15 percent fiber and is designed to provide variations according to how it is groomed and maintained. The jumper blend has 30 percent fiber, designed to offer concussion, relief, and stability as well as rebound energy.”

Keating has found that the quality of the sand is not as good as it used to be in the United States due to amount of fracking and the oil industry.

“Because of this, we have found that it’s important to use more fiber, regardless of what your discipline is,” says Keating. “Ninety percent of our sales are blend. We use our competition blend at high-end horse shows, which is 50 percent geotextile and 50 percent fiber. [These shows] require the most support and concussion relief, especially in the Grand Prix dressage and jumper arenas.

“Nowadays, it’s recommended that you hire a consultant that can test the sand that you are thinking of using,” she adds. “Many professional arena builders are now using mixtures of variable grades of sand to achieve the best results.”

Keating says anyone building arenas should assess the level of riding and how many horses go through their arena each day.

“Across the country, there are a varying products available for base, so it’s best to work with a contractor who is familiar with your specific property and ground,” she says.

A Vet’s View

Poor footing can be a big contributor to lameness, according to Rob van Wessum, DVM, M.S., who practices at Equine All-Sports Medicine Center in Mason, Mich. He’s also a Grand Prix dressage rider who holds a diplomate from the American College of Equine Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (ACVSMR).

He says that close to 50 percent of his case load of lame horses is due to improper footing and improper training techniques in inadequate footing. He mostly sees tendon or ligament injuries related to both these factors.

“In deep footing with lack of stability, the horse moves the footing material too much, which means less rebound of ground-reaction forces into the horse, causing tendon injuries, especially suspensory ligament injuries,” says van Wessum. “The horse loses energy with every stride, moving footing instead of himself. That puts a lot of strain on muscles to deliver more energy. A horse is built for rebound energy stored in tendons, so a lot of kinetic energy is stored as elastic energy during the air phase and then used in the next stance phase. With deep footing, there is far less rebound energy.

“When muscles get fatigued due to excess work in deep footing for too long in the same kind of work, a horse can’t stabilize his core anymore, which will cause damage to the connective tissue as result,” he continues. “Connective tissue is often ligament, fascia or tendon. You can find it in the limbs but also in the back, neck, and pelvis region. Damage to all those regions is diagnosed daily in our practice.”

Consequences of Poor Arena Footing

Footing that is so deep the coronary band disappears is one of the most common kinds of bad footing.

“The opposite of too deep is too hard, which can damage to the bone structures due to concussive forces,” says van Wessum.

He explains that footing that has too much grip, like when too much fiber is added, can cause damage to the collateral ligaments of the coffin, pastern, and fetlock joint. This is due to rotational forces when riding in small circles, lateral gaits, or landing and turning after jumps—any time the foot gets stuck on the footing while the upper part of the limb turns. He also sees this with too-deep footing when it is muddy or clay-like and sucks the hooves in.

“Footing that is too slippery due to rain or over-watering causes many injuries, such as ligament and tendon injuries in the lower limb, but also spinal ligament injuries in the neck, back and pelvis,” says van Wessum.

One of the worst kinds of footings van Wessum sees is when the same arena has different areas within it, like harder, softer and then deeper areas.

“When the quality of the footing suddenly changes, a misstep and strain or distortion of joint or ligament is the result,” he says.

Van Wessum stresses that there is no general rule for quality footing materials.

“It depends on what the arena is used for, where it’s located geographically, the traffic through the arena (one or two horses a day versus 60), and the quality of the maintenance,” he explains.

The Best Prevention

What are the best steps a rider can take to protect their horse? Incorporate proper training and exercise to adapt to the quality of footing, according to van Wessum.

“When the footing is deeper, shorter bouts of more intense work, alternating with walking, helps the horse recover and avoid fatigue,” he says. “Proper shoeing and timely reshoeing so the angles don’t change too much is extremely important.”

Van Wessum does not see any advantage to boots or leg protection when it comes to preventing injury due to bad footing.

His client horses receive regular soundness exams (approximately every six months) to monitor any small changes in performance and sensitivity of tendons and ligaments before they become a bigger issue.

“We saw horses from the same facility showing tenderness in the suspensory ligament,” says van Wessum. “After looking at the footing, we could see that it was getting too deep because of less watering in dry times.”

It’s smart to take a walk in any new footing with your horse before riding, exercising or competing. Pay attention to the depth, consistency and condition of the arena.

What’s under your horse’s feet will affect his overall soundness, confidence and performance. Knowing how horses react to different surfaces will help you determine the best type of footing to ride in.

With patience and proper training, you can help your horse travel on many surfaces safely and without injury.

This article about arena footing appeared in the September 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Arena Footing 101 appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The job of the base is to make a level surface to support the footing above. If the base is properly installed, there will never be low spots, deep spots or areas that collect water in your arena. The ideal footing helps cushion your horse’s every stride by allowing his hooves to slide just a little bit as he sets them down and provides a firm surface for his hooves to dig into as he pushes off. Leaving your ground as is will never provide these benefits, so as a result your horse’s performance will suffer because he won’t be able to trust the footing, and he will remember, perhaps spook, at uneven spots. Without proper drainage, you may also find your home riding arena under water and unusable most of the time.

Robert Malmgren, author of The Equine Arena Handbook: Developing a User-Friendly Facility, is considered the foremost authority on horse arenas. He says creating a riding arena at home on your own is very hard if not impossible because you need several players to help you avoid pitfalls.

“Making an arena seems like a lot of complications, but you’ll avoid mistakes if you plan right and employ the right people,” explains Malmgren, who is from Colorado Springs, Colo. “Mistakes are very costly to correct after the arena is installed.”

Proper Planning Prevents Problems

Before you put a shovel in the ground, sit down and get organized. Think about where you want to put the horse riding arena at home. Right next to the barn may seem convenient, but if that area collects water, think again. Drainage is an issue in every arena, so you’ll want to avoid land that’s a perpetual pond, if possible.

“As we get into global warming and climate change, we are going to have some extremes in moisture,” Malmgren adds. “This year in Colorado we’ve had some very extreme rains with a long duration of storms. That kind of rain would inundate an arena with drainage problems.”

Next, you need to determine the soil type in the site. Malmgren says to seek free assistance through people at your local office of the Natural Resources Conservation Services.

“They are the government’s soil people for the entire country,” he says. “Every county should have an office. Go in and tell them what you’re building and ask about what kind of soil you have. They usually have the information at hand, and can tell you whether it’s possible to create an arena in that area. They also provide good information, such as the percentage of sand, silt, clay and gravel in your soil. They will often come out to your site.”

Make sure to have a plat map of your property with you so the NRCS officials can pinpoint the location. They might not be familiar with the arena characteristics you require, so tell them what you need to know: type of soil, three feet in depth. Also, ask if the soil is high in clay, which is important regarding water absorption and base stability.

The next step is to obtain a permit. Getting a permit for a home riding arena might sound like overkill, but most counties require at least a grading permit if a certain amount of land is disturbed. You may also need an erosion and sediment control permit. You may not think you are disturbing that much land, but you will disturb twice as much earth as the size of your horse arena.

Even if you don’t think you need a permit, double check with your local government about its building inspection procedures because rules do change. If you begin building before proper approvals or inspections take place, your local government’s building inspection department has the right to stop the construction until proper permits and procedures are met. Sometimes this includes paying fines and penalties.

You’ll need to get yet another expert on your side—a soil consultant. Soil consultants are engineers who understand all the ins and outs of working with soil. They are the ones called in to advise facilities such as baseball fields, golf courses and parking lots. Look for a soil consultant under listings for engineering consultants.

The NRCS office may also recommend someone in your area. “A soil consultant is important because you’ll be moving soil and he’ll know how to help you do that correctly,” Malmgren says. “He can look at the NRCS’s information and tell you what you need to do to make the arena work for your situation.”

Starting at the Bottom: The Base

The base is important for a successful horse riding arena. Bottom line: You will never have a good arena without an adequate base. Your soil consultant will help determine your base requirements and if the soil will form a stable base. The base should be about six inches below the surface, if it’s a stable base. “If it isn’t stable, you might have to bring in some crushed stone to create a firm base,” Malmgren says. “You want the base to be firm because it will create a level surface for the footing above. The stone will have to be rolled when installed to create maximum hardness and evenness, and so it stays in place.”

Your topsoil might make a good base and you can put your footing right on top of it, but that’s the exception rather than the rule. Soil situations are different for everyone. It can even be vastly different within the same locale. One neighbor might have clay soil while another has sand.

Some areas of the country are subject to “frost heave” where the ground expands in the winter, causing rocks to come up to the surface. In the spring you’ll find rocks on the surface, and you’ll have to pick them up every year. The soil consultant will tell you if frost heave might occur in your area. If you have frost heave, extra heavy rolling at the time of construction will help keep your base in place. The NRCS may also give you this information at no charge.

Creating a Drain for a Riding Arena

Anyone who has had training interrupted because of a flooded arena knows how frustrating it is. Sinking money into a horse arena that sits underwater part of the year is a waste. Your soil consultant can help you avoid drainage issues.

He or she will first determine what your soil is like from the surface down to three feet deep. So perhaps you’ll have three feet of pure clay or maybe six inches of loam and then six inches of sand, followed by gravel.

“This is important to understand because you need to know how your soil handles water,” Malmgren says. “For instance, a gravel layer is going to hold some water where clay will not. If you have heavy rains, you’ll know how much water you’re going to be able to store before you have problems. And then during construction, you’ll know how to work with that.”

If your soil doesn’t drain well, don’t give up on your dream arena. There are ways you can limit flooding. You can install a French drain, which carries water away from the arena. There are several ways to create this type of drain for each area of the country. The NRCS and your consultant can help with water drainage issues.

You can also crown the arena, so that water drains off it. Or you can raise the whole arena above ground level.

What’s Underfoot in a Riding Arena?

Many types of footing additives are on the market, from shredded felt to crumb rubber to poly microfibers, but most footing “recipes” begin with sand. And any old sand won’t do. You want sand that will bind and hold together.

Sand comes in a variety of shapes; some is sharp and angular, and some is rounded. Sand performs in different ways depending upon its characteristics. It can be slippery if it’s round, like tiny ball bearings. The round grain will act like beach sand and be unsteady underfoot. It will be difficult to move through it, particularly if it’s dry.

Sharp sand binds together to hold better, which is the preferred footing for arenas. “Look at your sand grains with a hand magnifying glass if you want to get down to details, so you know what you’re getting,” Malmgren says.

Finding quality sand can be a challenge. If you have neighbors who have an arena, ask them if they are happy with their sand and where they got it. If your neighbor has a good riding arena and soil similar to yours, then you know that type of sand at your home will work for you. Also, ask how many inches your neighbor used. Footing depth ranges from two to six inches, depending upon your land situation and discipline. (For example, dressage riders generally prefer a shallower footing while reiners like deeper footing.) However, always use less footing than you think you will need. It’s easier to add more than to remove.

Sand by itself works well, but you need to be careful when watering. Too much water can flood the arena, making it unworkable for a long time. Wet sand is harder than dry sand, but very dry sand can be inefficient and create a dust problem.

Footing additives can help to improve cushion and improve traction. They also clump sand together better and prevent compaction. Some may help prevent freezing and cut down on trenching along the walls of the arena. Additives also create footing that requires less harrowing and watering. When choosing any additive, make sure that it’s manufactured for riding arenas.

Sometimes people use arenas as dumping grounds for horse manure and shavings. Although it can hold water well, manure creates a health issue for both humans and horses. The shavings also break down quickly and create a slippery surface.

Most arenas with heavy use will have a rut with half of the footing falling out of the arena. Pulling the footing back in the arena is a killer, Malmgren says. “Boards installed around the arena will solve the problem,” he advises.

“Untreated, unpainted lumber is best. I don’t like using any chemicals in an arena. If horses are turned out, they can gnaw on the boards. The height of the board depends upon the nature of your footing. If it’s a lot of footing, you’ll need bigger boards. It’s best to use higher boards because you may need to add more footing later on.”

Grass (turf) arenas are suitable under the right circumstances, depending on your annual rainfall and the type of grass. “Bunch grass doesn’t make good footing because soil is in between the plants, creating an uneven surface,” Malmgren says.

Key Takeaways

In this article, you’ve learned about building a horse arena and the DIY aspects of creating a home arena, including proper planning, the importance of the base and footing, drainage solutions, footing materials, maintenance, and grass arenas.

Read on for tips on arena maintenance so that you’re prepared to maintain your home riding arena.

This article about building a home riding arena originally appeared in the September 2007 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

The post How to Build a Riding Arena at Home appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Common ring-wise behaviors seen in competition arenas can include:

◆ Balking at the gate, stopping, backing up and not wanting to enter the arena.
◆ Head-tossing, gaping at the bit, side-stepping, refusing, or running out on a
jump or obstacle.
◆Ignoring your cues.
◆ Overreacting to noise, crowds and objects surrounding the arena.
◆ Anticipating the next move.
◆ Threatening to bite or kick; tail-wringing or pinning ears back.
◆ Breaking gait to go faster or slower; not staying on the rail and aiming for
the center of the ring or the exit gate.
◆ Bolting, kicking, bucking, rearing and being unwilling to stand still.
◆ Rushing to leave the arena once the class is over.

Start with Physical Issues for Your Ring-Wise Horse

Ring-wise issues aren’t always behavioral problems, explains Jessica Allen, a hunter/jumper rider with multiple A circuit championships and a recent winner of the USHJA International Hunter Derby. She co-owns and trains out of Tally Hawk Stables, LLC in Pleasanton, Calif., along with her business partner, Danielle Peterson.

When it comes to behavioral problems in competitions, Allen says it’s important to first rule out any medical issues your horse may have.

“Show horses that travel or are stalled for long periods of time can not only have soundness and movement issues, but often have ulcers and GI upset that can cause serious behavioral and physical problems,” she says. “I like to have my horses evaluated by our vet every six months to stay ahead of any problems that may be creeping in that I can’t always see or feel. Once any physical questions are answered, next comes a serious look at the training.”

In the show world, so much time is spent on the road competing that many riders don’t spent adequate time learning their horse at home, according to Allen.

“Riders must train correctly and thoroughly at home first, and let the show be the test of that training,” she says. “Then go home and practice more—the show results should follow the progress if your training is effective and successful.”

Early Intervention With a Ring-Wise Horse

There’s either a positive or negative reaction every time you and your horse enter the show arena due to the different experiences each class brings. Therefore, Allen says it’s crucial to stop ring-sour behaviors as quickly as they start.

“The longer [horses] are allowed to continue to act inappropriately, the harder it will become to remedy the issue,” she says. “Early intervention is key, as each behavior will require different methods to correct. Find a trainer who can consistently make it easy for your horse to achieve the desired behavior, while making it difficult for him to continue the undesired behavior. Horses should be trained early on to yield to pressure and seek the path of less resistance.”

In the hunter/jumper arena, along with classes that require a pattern or going from a crowded warm-up ring to competing in the show ring alone, issues can arise due to the herd-bound nature of horses. Conversely, dealing with the excitement that happens when a large number of horses start cantering together in a group class can cause your horse to panic, according to Allen.

“Whatever your horse’s weakness is, it’ll be heightened in the show ring,” she says. “There are many ways to recreate the show circumstances at home that your horse is having difficulties with at the shows. By doing the homework and desensitizing appropriately, you can help your horse adjust to any show stressors.”

Mix It Up for Your Ring-Wise Horse

There are two reasons why horses become ring wise: the rider’s nerves and boredom, according to Charlie Cole, an AQHA Professional Horseman and Certified AQHA, American Paint Horse Association, and National Snaffle Bit Association judge and leading exhibitor. He is co-owner and trainer of Highpoint Performance Horses in Pilot Point, Texas, with business partner Jason Martin. Cole has trained over 50 world champions in the all-around events, from western pleasure and trail to hunter under saddle and barrel racing.

“As a rider and trainer, my goal is to ride the same in the practice pen as I do in the show pen, so my horse doesn’t know there’s a difference,” says Cole. “Riders who lose focus and become anxious ride differently, forcing that anxiety onto their horse. Being a confident and consistent rider teaches your horse that no matter where they are or what they’re doing, riding is just riding, even in the pressure-filled show pen.”

Rail class horses, who perform in the same routine manner whenever they enter the show pen, are the most common ring-wise horses, according to Cole.

“These horses have grown unchallenged and bored and start to form bad show habits,” he says. “It’s never too late to ask a professional for help, and sometimes a different perceptive is the best thing.”

Cole suggests that a good solid longe before a class may help a horse show a bit calmer.

“It’s best to not to lighten the show load for a bored horse, but rather to add more events and classes to their routine, giving more of a variety,” he advises. “If I have a hunter under saddle horse, I introduce jumping, which is good for the horse’s brain and learning, and also strengthens him physically. We’ve taken several ring-smart hunt seat horses and added jumping events, which freshened up their view on the sometimes boring rail work. With a western pleasure horse, I would add a trail or western riding class to give him more jobs to think about and less repetition in the show pen.”

Relax for Your Ring-Wise Horse

Clarity and consistency are what matter most over jumps and on the flat, says Johanna Siefert, a top hunter/jumper rider and trainer. She owns Lionheart Training in Banks, Ore., with her husband, Joshua Cobb. Siefert is certain that a relaxed horse that is confident in his performance begins with your expectations and continues on in training.

“We feel horses that exhibit ring-wise behaviors are confused and under stress,” says Siefert. “This also happens when they’re overworked or have been poorly trained to cope with show anxieties. When things get difficult, you should go back to basics, keep your emotions in check, resort to what your horse knows, build a strong relationship, and make the show experience a comfortable one.”

Prepare to Be Better

Siefert explains that the journey to the show can cause stress even before a horse enters the ring.

“When hauling, it’s important to watch your horse closely, keeping an eye on his water intake, eating habits, manure production and demeanor, so you can provide care and treat if necessary,” she says. “We give breaks every few hours while hauling to rest and offer water. Once at the show, we try to keep the horses’ home routines the same or as close as possible, from feeding to workouts. Knowing your horse’s fitness and comfort levels and not overdoing it will create soundness and a healthy mindset when competing.”

Leaving ring-wise behavior out of the show pen takes effort on both the rider and horse’s part. By encouraging positive reactions, you will improve your horse’s outlook, making the show ring a place to shine and bond together instead of a tiresome and unfilled place to work.

This article about ring-wise horses appeared in the June 2021 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Wise Up With Your Ring-Wise Horse appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When it still feels like fall to you, your horses know better! And they start putting on their winter coats in response to the diminishing hours of daylight, whether there is a chill in the air, and this winter coat is a forerunner of the cold weather to come. Why not spend a few hours—or days—getting your stable and farm ready? It’s a lot more pleasant to do fall and winter farm prep work while the weather is still nice, and there are a few jobs that you won’t be able to do once there is snow on the ground. Here are a few things you’ll want to prepare.

Blankets: Do you blanket your horse in the winter? Perhaps you have an older horse, or one that is clipped or doesn’t naturally put on a very thick coat. Before winter hits is the time to sort through the shelves in the tack room and find these items that haven’t been in use since March.

You did remember to wash them before you stored them, right? If not, a quick trip to the laundromat might be in order. While you’re at it, clean and put away some of your summer horse equipment: fly sheets, fly spray, fly masks, fly traps…you get the idea.

Fence Repairs: The cooler temperatures of fall make for a nice time to work on fencing—a lot better than trying to fix a broken post or rail during a snowstorm! Take a walk (or a ride) around your fencing and make a list of any repairs that will be needed before the chill hits.

For electric fencing, remember that winter can cause grounding trouble (either from dry conditions or snow insulating the ground). You might want to add some ground rods in advance before the soil is frozen.

Watering Systems: Even if you live in a climate with warmer winters, don’t take chances with your barn’s water system. If there’s any risk that you’ll experience sub-freezing temperatures, make it a priority to shut off and drain the water from any exterior valves or hydrants that aren’t protected from the cold.

While heat tape or insulating foam might help for some isolated frosts and freezes, a burst pipe can be a big expense (and a big mess), so it might be wiser to not take the risk.

On the other hand, frostless hydrants or automatic waterers that safely drain water back down below the frostline after each use can stay in service all winter long—even in northern regions with long, harsh winters. You’ll also want to roll up, drain, and store your hoses.

Ice Prevention: You’ll also need a solid plan during fall farm prep for how you will keep your horses supplied with warm, ice-free water all winter. Your options will depend on your climate, but choices include heated electric buckets (these can work very well inside the stall), insulated water buckets, trough heaters, and the previously mentioned frostless automatic waterers or hydrants.

Also, prep for icy conditions around concrete walkways and doors by keeping some salt, animal-safe ice melt, and/or sand on hand.

Medications: While on the subject of things freezing, be sure to put away any equine medications or other items that might be ruined if they get too cold.

Tires: Cold weather has a surprising effect on tires—it condenses the air inside, which can cause the pressure (PSI) to drop significantly.

When the first cold snap hits, be sure to check the tire pressures on your tractor, ATV/UTV, truck, and horse trailer (if you plan to use it in the cold), as well as in tools like wheelbarrows, handcarts, et cetera. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve found myself pushing around a wheelbarrow that seems far too heavy, only to discover that cold temperatures had robbed the tires of their pressure.

Machinery: Any farm machinery that you don’t intend to use during the winter should be “put to bed” properly. It’s often wise to pull the battery and store it in a warm location; this will help the battery hold its charge in case you do need to operate the machine for some reason.

Try to avoid leaving the fuel tanks partially full, as the empty space in the tank can cause condensation to form. A good plan is to top off the fuel tank and then add a gasoline stabilizer to keep the fuel fresh until spring.

Another option is to completely drain the machine’s fuel system (tank, lines, carburetor) and let it sit empty all winter. Simply running the machine until it runs out of gas isn’t enough—you have to actually remove all fuel from the engine for this to work properly.

Pastures: Whether you have snow on the ground or not, winter can be hard on your horse’s pastures. With the grass dormant, overgrazing becomes a real possibility, thus damaging the grasses and promoting the growth of weeds the next summer.

Mud during the spring while the snow melts can also be problematic, particularly in smaller pastures. One option here is to limit your horses’ pasture access during the winter by temporarily fencing off a smaller sacrifice area where they can spend the cold months. Ideally, the footing of this area would be prepared ahead of time and raised higher than the surrounding ground with gravel (not sand), or even geotextile pads.

Also, in the big picture, it helps if the pastures slope slightly (2 percent or more) to promote drainage; sometimes professionally re-grading of the pasture is needed.

Stalls: Proper stable ventilation is one thing—drafts are another. While fresh air inside the stable is critical for equine respiratory health, you definitely don’t want your horse standing in a draft inside his stall.

During fall farm prep, double check your stalls for excessive air movement.

Snow removal: If your region experiences significant snowfall—frequent storms totaling a few inches or more—you’ll also need a snow-removal plan. Simply stashing a couple of snow shovels isn’t enough; in case of heavy snowfall, you’ll need to consider other options.

You can try a snowblower for clearing walking paths and areas in the pastures for your horses to walk, or you could try a snow blade on your ATV or tractor. You also may need a larger snow removal system capable of handling the stable’s driveway and parking areas.

Finally, be sure to take a walk around your entire property prior to the first snowfall to clear paths of rocks, large sticks, or any other objects that might become buried and interfere with the snow removal process.

Once your winter preparation checklist is completed, you can rest easy when the first cold snap hits, knowing that you and your horses are ready to go.

This article about fall farm prep originally appeared in the November 2019 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Fall Farm Prep appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment graduate student Staci McGill set out to learn more about the air quality of indoor horse arenas last year, she was surprised to discover there wasn’t any existing research available. So she forged the way with first-of-its-kind research, melding her passion for riding with her academic research interests.

In May 2018, she launched a survey about indoor arenas in partnership with UK’s College of Public Health and facility design experts within the College of Agriculture, Food and Environment. The survey set out to gather information on arena design and construction, footing, maintenance and the arena environment. Owners, managers and riders were asked about arena construction characteristics, air quality, arena footing and associated health outcomes in horses and humans.

The online survey garnered more than 450 respondents and initial findings indicate that 77% of respondents are concerned about dust, moisture levels and/or the lack of air movement.

“It’s mind-blowing that this hasn’t been done before,” said McGill, a graduate student in the Department of Biosystems and Agricultural Engineering. “We know these issues exist, but no one has ever documented the concerns.”

“This amazing team is an important collaboration. Together we can positively impact horse and human health by establishing conditions that are health protective,” said Kimberly Tumlin, assistant professor in the Department of Preventive Medicine and Environmental Health, College of Public Health. “We know that horse-human interactions have many positive outcomes. This research helps define environments and potential exposures that may affect the quality of these interactions.”

McGill’s team is releasing some of the initial findings through an infographic , and expects the study to generate several areas of additional research.

The facility design and use information shows trends with arena age and construction costs. An example of changing trends is lighting. The use of LEDs has increased while the use of metal halide lights has dramatically decreased. LEDs look to be surpassing even fluorescents in newly built arenas. The size of the arenas has shifted to greater square footages in newer arenas and, as expected, larger arenas also tend to be more expensive to build.

The definition of an indoor arena varies by where respondents live and how their climate impacts horse sport participation. Primary riding disciplines, wall and window configuration and footing materials, like the presence of fiber, all varied by region as well.

The major finding is that the arena is a complex environment. Facility design, management, footing, usage and amount of horse activity within the space all interact to affect the environment in an indoor arena.

McGill said next steps include tackling the three big issues of dust, moisture and lack of air movement using a systems approach. A multidisciplinary team is critical to providing solutions and guidance that will work for the equine industry. She is still interested in conducting site visits to facilities from all breeds and disciplines as part of this research. Facilities interested in a site visit or who have questions about the research should reach out to her directly at staci.mcgill@uky.edu.

The post Initial Results from UK Indoor Horse Arena Survey Released appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Just as you need a permit to build the arena, you need a permit for lights. Apply for a lighting permit at the same time you apply for your arena permit, and check local regulations to find out how tall your light poles can be. “Go as high as the regulations will let you,” Donovan says. “The cost of a 20 foot pole to a 30 foot pole is minimal. Taller poles cast smaller shadows because the light strikes horse and rider more vertically. You will also need to hire an electrician. This is high voltage power, so don’t let someone who is not qualified install the lights. It really does need a professional. Electricity can kill, plus bad wiring is the major cause of barn fires.”

“The expensive part of lighting is the installation, so think carefully about your power,” Donovan says. “It’s likely that your house doesn’t have enough electricity to support arena lights, so either you’ll have to shut off all the lights in the house to prevent a blown fuse, or you’ll have to install a sub panel, which can be costly.” The electricity in the barn may not be enough either. A 200-amp panel is generally sufficient to support arena lighting. While you’re in the planning stage, have an electrician come out and look at your power sources.  He will also be able to do an analysis of your arena to determine how much lighting is necessary.

“There is a certain amount of light that you’ll need for your arena,” Donovan says. “Different applications require different amounts of light. Much less light is needed for a parking lot than you would need for a tennis court. Riding arenas fall in between those two examples and are generally well lit with 15 foot candles. A foot-candle is the measure of a light’s intensity–the density of light that falls on a surface.”

Place the light poles symmetrically around the arena. The number of poles depends upon the size of the ring, but a minimum of four is a must. This is to avoid shadows, which can spook horses.

Donovan also says to put as many lights on each pole as possible. Choose metal halide lights because they put out the cleanest light, as opposed to the old-fashioned mercury or sodium vapor lights.

And finally, don’t allow your contractor to run conduit or wiring under your arena. If something goes wrong, you might have to dig up the arena to make repairs. This is a sure-fire way to ruin your arena. The base needs to be level throughout, and if one area is disturbed it will act as a sump and collect water. Always have the wiring in conduit and outside the arena.

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George Chatigny, general manager of the Los Angeles Equestrian Center, recommends starting with about 2 inches of sand footing atop your base. “Start off with a limited amount of material—2 to 3 inches. Ride on it and see how well it works. If you think that it’s too thin or patchy, then bring in more. It’s always easier to add more than to take away.”

Over time, sand, like other footing, will break down. “Your footing will become tired,” George says. “It will break down into finer granules, and then it will not be as forgiving. At that point, maybe two to three years down the road, you want to take all that sand off, down to your base, which should still be at the same pitch and level as where you were.” George says to regrade the base a little bit and level it off, then place your new footing on top.

Further Reading
At-home Arena Maintenance

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Your beautiful arena won’t stay that way without ongoing upkeep, which includes an investment in some tools. Maintenance needs vary depending on factors, such as footing material, weather, daily use, type of riding and budget. Some basics do apply, however, regardless of your situation.

Base Point

A well-maintained riding arena allows your horse to perform at his peak. The best riding surfaces offer your horse just enough cushion, good traction (not too slick or uneven) and minimal dust. A good arena is located away from any run-off and is typically built with three layers of materials. The bottom layer is the “sub-base” (native soil), which has been graded and leveled (or slightly crowned for drainage), then compacted with heavy equipment. The middle layer in an arena is the 4- to 6-inch “base” made of a material that is designed to compact (crushed rock material with granules no larger than 1?4 inch is ideal). This base is rolled with heavy equipment to further compact it and follows the slope of the sub-base. If a crown is incorporated, it should be built down the center of the arena, lengthwise, sloped 1 to 2 percent on both sides. (An indoor arena shouldn’t have drainage problems, so it can be designed flat.)

The top layer of the riding arena is the footing or riding surface, which is usually sand, wood products, rubber, stonedust, or a mixture of these materials with perhaps a little topsoil, stall waste or sawdust added in. No matter what you use, the trick to maintaining your arena—and the footing that sits on top—is taking care of the base.

“A good base that is well-built should last you 10 years,” says George Chatigny, general manager of the Los Angeles Equestrian Center (LAEC). Located north of downtown Los Angeles, LAEC is the venue for many world-class equestrian events. It’s also home to many outdoor riding arenas, one fully covered stadium arena and more than 500 stalls for horses boarded at the facility.

George says that along with environment, the wrong equipment and poor maintenance will wreck your base. “An arena is only going to last a short while until you find the means to water it and drag it on a regular basis,” George explains. “As the horse goes around, the footing is packing, and if you don’t get into the arena on a regular basis, then that arena will pack down.”

Dragging and Watering

Dragging an arena can be as simple as using a hand-held arena rake. But more often, some heavy equipment is needed. Arena “drags” come in many designs—simple to sophisticated—and the purpose of these tools is to move footing back to where it needs to be. Some drags can be pulled with either a pickup truck or utility vehicle; others require a tractor with a 3-point hitch.

Watering an arena can be done with nothing more than a garden hose and a sprinkler attachment, but many companies now offer arena watering systems that do the job much more efficiently. Also, some drags actually feature watering systems that let you water while dragging. The benefit of this feature is that it allows the user to tackle troublesome spots in an arena, such as unshaded areas. How much water to use depends on your environment (arid versus humid), whether your arena is indoor or outdoor, and how well you’re maintaining moisture levels on a regular basis.

In the case of LAEC, watering and dragging is done more than once a day because of the high traffic and arid conditions. A small facility, particularly a home arena used only a few times a week by a few horses, won’t need as much attention but upkeep is still required. “Drag and water your arena every day,” George recommends, even if you’re not riding in it daily. “If you have something [a drag] that penetrates the surface and doesn’t bust up the base, it will constantly keep the material from compacting, and your horses are going to find more enjoyment traveling on something that has a little bit more air, a little bit more fluffiness to it. So even a spike-tooth screen drag [that doesn’t rip the base] on the back of a bumper of a pickup truck is going to help.”

Daniel Webb, business manager at the Center for Equine and Pre-Veterinary Studies at the University of Findlay in Ohio, follows a similar protocol in order to maintain good footing in the college’s riding arenas. “We water and drag every day—twice a day when school is in session.” In addition to two indoor arenas for its students, the University of Findlay also maintains outdoor arenas.

But Daniel warns that you have to be careful not to touch the base when dragging. “You can’t go any deeper than the footing itself,” he says. Ripping into the base causes ruts and unevenness. Unfortunately, once this happens you have to strip away the footing, fix the base by leveling and flattening, and then bring the footing back in.

Another way to protect your base is to pay special attention to highly trafficked areas, such as an entry gate area that can become rutted over time. Also, mix up your riding routine so that you aren’t constantly traveling on the same line. For example, if you jump, change your course often. Also, mix up your on-the-rail, off-the-rail work, so you don’t develop a well-worn track in your arena. Another problem is when footing “collects” over time. Even though your base is intact, footing can pile up in places. To fix this problem, George recommends releveling your footing every two months using a leveling tool featured on many arena drags today.

Keeping your footing in your arena can be tricky if you don’t have solid walls around it. The University of Findlay uses block walls to keep footing in, but not everyone can afford the luxury. “The material that you paid for and want to ride on is not in the right track. Therefore you need to bring it back and redistribute it in the arena,” says LAEC’s George Chatigny. He recommends tackling this chore when you relevel.

Weather Related

During the rainy season, the maintenance crew at LAEC is on high weather alert. Before a rainstorm hits, the crew levels and smoothes the footing to help shed water, and the arenas are off limits for riding or turnout until the base and footing dry. Riding in a saturated arena is dangerous for your horse, and it tears up your base. Using an alternate safe “sacrifice” riding surface will save your arena investment. While Los Angeles’ “extreme” weather typically amounts to only the occasional downpour, other parts of the country aren’t so fortunate. At the University of Findlay, weather includes snow and ice. “We don’t use our outdoor arenas during the winter months—we stay in the indoor arenas instead.”

Carol Craig, who along with her husband Mel, owns CJ Ranch in Crown Point, Ind., says she uses her outdoor arenas most of the year. Carol, a trainer and horse show judge, holds several shows at her facility for both English and western riders. “People are surprised, but we ride outdoors nearly all winter. We do have a covered arena, but our outdoor ring holds up very well.” Carol says that even when there is snow on the ground, the footing can be rideable, as long as there’s no ice. “Our soil is a heavy clay, but we have found just the right mix of native soil and sand for our footing.” To maintain that mix, arenas at CJ Ranch are dragged daily.

If you’ve spent the time and money to design a riding arena, take the time to maintain it and it will last longer and cost less over the long run. Also, a good riding surface will help your horse stay sounder, saving you countless dollars on veterinary bills.

Further Reading
Sand for Arena Footing
Arena Maintenance

This article originally appeared in the November 2006 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

The post At-home Riding Arena Maintenance appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

“Hosting a horse show in the center of a major metropolitan city is very different form putting on a show in the country,” explains Eric Straus, WIHS Chief Executive Officer. “In the case of the WIHS, we must build an arena and bring in the footing.”

The night before the WIHS might feature a basketball game or rock concert. The next morning, there is an amazing transformation to one of the nation’s premiere equestrian competitions. The biggest test begins as the riders enter the ring and scrutinize the footing.

In the riders’ minds, there are key factors that come into play when deciding whether or not the footing is good enough. The horses must feel secure when they land after a fence or canter around the arena. Riders are also concerned with their horses’ comfort, both mentally and physically, and a horse’s soundness and performance have a lot to do with the footing.

Quality Control
While the staff at the WIHS place the horses’ safety at the top of their list, they also have to deal with the reality of quickly creating and dismantling an arena that includes stabling and reliable footing.

The footing at the WIHS is a mixture of limestone screenings. “We have a very small window to get the material in and out, so if we had to use what they have at a permanent facility, it would take too much time and require too much maintenance,” explains show manager David Distler. “We get the limestone screenings shipped in locally, and they are easy to maintain.”

“In the end, the quality of locally available footing is key,” adds Tony Hitchcock, WIHS chief operating officer and HITS, Inc., senior vice president. “Our recent tradition has been to purchase new footing and sell it at a discount to a local school or riding program, or donate it.” For example, in 2007, 700 tons of the lime sand footing valued at $14,500 was donated to the U.S. Mounted Park Police.

Special Delivery
Getting 700 tons of footing in and out of the Verizon Center in Washington, D.C. is logistically difficult. The police and fire departments and Homeland Security all have to approve the show’s plans, including the delivery of the footing. Since the WIHS takes over the streets surrounding the Verizon Center from Saturday at midnight until 6:30 a.m. the following Monday, it requires a police presence at the end of each closed street to help secure the roads and direct traffic.

“We must present our site, traffic and stabling plans to the Mayor’s Special Events Committee, which is operated under D.C. Homeland Security,” explains Straus. “All affected city agencies review the proposed plans, and will make comments for modification if needed.”

On the day before the show begins, approximately 15 to 20 trucks are lined up at the top of the loading ramp, ready to make their delivery, which adds to the traffic congestion. It takes about 45 truckloads and eight hours to bring in all the footing for both the main arena and the indoor schooling area.

Once in the arena, the footing has to be unloaded and spread. Some of this is done by tractor, but manual help is also necessary.

“If it needs it, we wet the footing down as it goes in,” says Distler. “It has to be moist in order to not create a dust bowl. Once the trucks are gone and the arena is quiet for a few minutes, only those who were present know how much effort was put into creating this fine art of footing.”

When the first horse enters the Verizon Center for the WIHS, there is carefully installed and maintained footing for approximately 500 competitors from all over North America.

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Maintaining your new arena is important if you want to get the most out of it for your horse’s performance and to create safe footing. George Chatigny manages the Los Angeles Equestrian Center in Burbank, Calif., one of the busiest facilities in the United States. He has some tips to help keep up your home arena.

1. The right tools are necessary for arena maintenance: You will need a tractor. Choose one that can level, rip, move footing and work with your dragging implement.
2. Choose a drag that has an adjustable depth level to loosen the footing plus a grooming device to smooth or level it. Make sure to set the teeth to the correct depth. If you drag too deep you risk mixing the base into the footing.
3. Your arena should be dragged daily. This will provide proper footing and keep the ring in good condition. Drag slowly in different directions, the short width followed by the long width of the ring. Dragging in one direction may cause high and low spots.
4. Water the arena so that it won’t dry out, which makes the footing too soft.
5. If you are designing your arena and don’t want corners, try a curve on the ends to allow for the tractor to groom the entire arena without having to back into corners. Most 90-degree corners are unused in show-rings. If you’re designing a dressage arena, allow the ends to be dismantled for easy maintenance.

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