Early Days of Horsepower

The first records of horses traveling any way other than on their own four feet dates to the late 18th and early 19th centuries in England, beginning with two racehorses. Pulled in an adapted wagon by one or two other horses, the Thoroughbreds were respectively transported for breeding purposes and to arrive well-rested at racetracks.

Most horses were not this lucky. However, as trains and the railway system developed, some horses experienced train travel for exceptionally long distances.

Horses continued to transport each other for decades. Some city fire departments had horse-drawn ambulances, used to haul injured horses to firehouses for veterinary care.

During World War I, more equine ambulances were created to transfer infantry horses from the battlegrounds to base hospitals with veterinarians. There were some vans with stalls in the back to haul war horses as well, helping to pave the way for motorized equine transport after the war. These early versions of trailers were made from wood and steel.

Many years passed with no major need for a horse trailer that closely resembles what we have today. Throughout the American Southwest, horses were still mainly considered livestock, and were necessary for ranch work.

If ranchers or cowboys needed to travel longer distances than their horses could comfortably ride, they loaded up their mounts in the back of pickup trucks. Horses were often tied to cattle racks, which were wooden or steel removable pickup truck inserts that kept livestock contained while driving.

Changing Times 

As the 20th century progressed, stock trailers entered the scene, replacing many cattle racks. Vehicles slowly became more capable of towing trailers as people experienced a greater need to transport goods and other livestock, like cattle and swine, over long distances.

The first stock trailers were primarily made from wood, but quickly switched to steel, since it held up better.

The Interstate Highways

When the Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956 was passed under Eisenhower, 41,000 miles of an efficient Interstate Highway System was constructed over a period of 10 years. Automotive transportation vastly improved, allowing safer and longer transport for people and animals.

At the same time, livestock travel via rail decreased, so increasingly powerful trucks were needed. Now horses could travel with greater ease, even if it was in a basic steel stock trailer.

From there, horses were ridden more for leisure than work, so equestrians everywhere started attending competitions or traveling to recreational trails. This change among the equine industry quickly led to a need for dedicated horse trailers that could haul to horse shows.

Some of the first trailer companies manufacturing specifically for horses were Stidham and Miley, which both started in the 1950s. Back then, trailers were manufactured out of steel and only had room for one to two horses in little bumper pulls. However, it was still very common to haul with stock trailers not necessarily designed for horses. 

New Materials

While steel dominated the trailer industry for generations, customers soon discovered how quickly this material rusts and deteriorates, ultimately putting horse safety at risk.

To solve this issue, 4-Star Trailers, Featherlite, and Exiss were some of the first companies to build aluminum horse trailers. Later other companies followed suit, such as Bloomer Trailers in 1998 and Cimarron Trailers in 2000.

According to Forrest Shifflet, President of 4-Star Trailers, starting from the company’s foundation in 1984, they found that aluminum weighs significantly less than steel, is virtually corrosion-free, and thus holds its value better.

Since this material is much lighter and does not experience rapid deterioration, trailers could grow in length and height as trucks also improved in towing capacity, which was particularly important with the rise of gooseneck trailers and slant-loads that granted more interior space.

Aluminum may seem like it would be an easy choice for customers when trailer shopping, but it took some time for the material to be fully accepted after steel was used for so many years. Some customers feared aluminum would rip or tear under stress.

“People were scared of aluminum at first,” says Anthony Gelvin, director of sales at Cimarron Trailers. “They weren’t sure it would hold up.”

Fortunately, improved structural engineering, manufacturing processes, aluminum alloys, and fiberglass combinations were soon used, further enhancing the quality of trailer shells.

Bigger and Better

According to Gelvin, steel gooseneck stock trailers were still around in the late 1980s, but the market’s comfort level with aluminum had improved. Companies could then place more focus on trailers specifically designed for horses, rather than fashioning horse trailers from stock trailers, like Shifflet says 4-Star did at first.

Perhaps the biggest change in horse trailers has been the addition of living quarters (LQ). Even though recreational vehicles (RVs) had existed for decades, it took until the mid to late 1990s for LQ trailers to become more widely available.

Previously, equestrians had little need to stay overnight at shows because competitions were usually one day long. If riders needed to sleep overnight, the back of their pickup with a cover over the bed was often sufficient. Also, since pickup trucks were very limited for a long time in how much they could tow, small trailers were the only options.

By the 1990s, more and more riders attended shows, including families. Gelvin believes that customers sought a better family experience, considering the costs of hotel rooms and the convenience of staying on the showgrounds.

Due to this need, the horse trailer industry had to catch up to RVs. Consumers were willing to pay higher trailer prices to account for complex electrical, plumbing, insulation, and structural work if it meant they would be comfortable and could save money in the long run.

Now that a higher number of people could travel farther and stay longer, weekend and week-long shows grew, calling for bigger and better trailers. Shifflet says that trailers used to measure 7 feet tall, and goosenecks were about 30 feet long.

Today, with LQs being the norm in many disciplines, the average gooseneck measures about 8 feet tall and 40 feet long. Some trailers max out at 53 feet long and offer lofts to further accommodate comfortable living space—all the more reason for trucks to continue boosting their towing capacity.

Safer Travels

Aluminum is not the only major safety change for horses among bumper pulls, goosenecks, and even commercial haulers. Just about all the mechanical systems have also been upgraded, such as axles, brakes, running gear, couplers, hitches, and more. Horses have better ventilation, too, with screened windows on both sides of the trailer.

Moreover, features such as rubber mats and ramps are common nowadays, offering cushion and safer traction. 4-Star even incorporates patented “Quiet Ride” technology, since research, conveyed by Shifflet, demonstrates that “horses are less stressed when the trailer rattles less.” Old steel trailers were almost deafening for horses, which could not have made for the happiest of travelers.

Many modern-day horse trailers are also equipped with an air-ride suspension system. Unlike the first models with spring suspension, horse trailers with air ride better compensate for uneven surfaces in the road, such as potholes or speed bumps, increasing equine comfort.

Key Takeaway

Updates and improvements throughout the horse trailer industry aren’t done by a long shot. Gelvin says that the way customers’ needs change is key. Today, many consumers want their horse trailers to be multi-purpose, ultimately saving money, so they can have the option to haul horses one weekend and small off-road vehicles the next.

One thing is certain: horse transportation has experienced drastic, yet positive changes in terms of safety and comfort. Now, if only we could explain to our horses how far we’ve come!

This article about the evolution of horse trailers appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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I’ve been on the search for a new (to me) horse trailer for years. Growing up, I’ve gone from having a four-horse bumper-pull livestock trailer to a five-horse aluminum gooseneck trailer. We’ve hauled our trailers with vans, gas trucks, diesel trucks, and back to gas.

While I had my “dream trailer” in mind, I also knew what my budget could handle and what our honest needs were, which set me on the course of constantly perusing the trailer selling groups on Facebook and talking with many different contacts to learn what to buy and what not to buy.

I finally found a trailer that checked most of the boxes on my list. It’s an early 2000s Sooner two-horse straight-load bumper-pull trailer with a small dressing/tack room in the front. The 7’6″ height was more than I was looking for, but I also know that the resale value on this trailer is amazing, especially being a warmblood trailer. So what if my stocky Quarter Horses and chubby Miniature Horse are a little dwarfed when they’re inside? Plenty of head room!

I’ll share a little about what I did to make this trailer mine.

Cleaning the Back of a Horse Trailer

There’s not too much you can do to change up things in the back of the trailer where the horses are hauled. Within the first day, even though the previous owner had cleaned it out, I dragged out my pressure washer to clean the inside from top to bottom; you can never be too careful with biosecurity.

The butt and chest bar padding on the inside of the trailer was original—so it was stained, faded and not as soft as it once was. Did you know that you can replace these pads?

What I Did

I purchased replacement padding (without the pipe inside) from my local trailer shop for the chest and butt bars. These are generally affordable and easy to replace.

The protective pads on the sides of the trailer and dividers are a little more difficult and expensive to replace. These are also made from vinyl and foam, but they require screwing into the trailer sides. This isn’t something I’m looking to do right now, unless I decide to sell my trailer down the road, but I was happy to find that I could replace those pads if I wanted.

With a straight load, I have a decent size empty space in the front of the trailer, where you might see a grain manger. The previous owner installed 1-inch-thick plywood at the bottom of her horse divider and the front divider to use the second stall and front for more storage. I removed both dividers, but I may later reinstall the front just to protect anything from potentially falling or moving into the stalls and getting tangled in their legs. For now, the front will hold a bale of hay and cooler, two objects that won’t easily move on the rubber flooring.

Organize the Dressing/Tack Room

My wish list was to have a rear tack and front dressing room, but for my family’s needs right now, we are OK with the lack of rear tack. Two horses shouldn’t require that much equipment, and if you store things properly, you’re able to fit quite a bit in small spaces.

What Storage Exists There Already

My trailer has a saddle rack for two saddles, nicely spaced out for my western saddle and my daughter’s western saddle. It already had rubber-coated hooks for hanging bags, tack and equipment. There’s also a small area in the back where you can slide clothing hangers for show clothes—however, you must use thinner wire hangers, not plastic or wooden hangers.

What I Added

1.  I installed a couple of two-by-fours so I could hang a grooming caddy from the short wall by the door. One of the worst things you can have in a small space is clutter—not only is it an eyesore, but it can be unsafe if you’re trying to move around inside, and it’s easy to lose things.

I love the grooming caddy I’m using because it has so many pockets, including a mesh zipper pocket and clear plastic zippered pocket, and it can hang up in the trailer or at the stalls if we were to show out of stalls. It allows me to store my grooming and sport boots off the floor.

2. I purchased a white plastic shoe storage cabinet from IKEA; the two drawers stack on top of each other or next to each other, or you can use just one. I’m using it to store my mesh sheets, small spray bottles and sport boots. I love it because it’s thin, easy to keep clean, and can be moved around if needed. (I keep the cabinets in place with strong hook-and-loop fasteners.)

3. To keep the original flooring clean, plus add a little comfort, I purchased interlocking fitness flooring. The flooring is cheap ($5/square at Five Below) and easy to cut to fit into the corners. Plus, if something is spilled or I just need to replace a square, it’s easy and affordable!

4. Finally, make your trailer your own by outfitting it in matching travel gear. What’s more fun than accessorizing your saddle carrier, bridle bags and hay bags in a fun matching pattern? It’s the best way to protect your many investments, makes it easy for identification (I have one color and my daughter will have her own color), and they make your storage look neater.

Key Takeaway

With these DIY hacks, you can affordably organize and customize your horse trailer to optimize storage. This will make for easier trips to horse shows and other hauling adventures. Take photos of your DIY horse trailer projects and tag us in them on Instagram (@horseillustrated)!

This article about tips to organize and customize your horse trailer storage appeared in the November/December 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Unfortunately, much of what happens in life is out of our control. Insurance can’t prevent bad things from happening, but it offers a financial buffer when they do.

Here, we’ll review the most common equine policies, what they entail, and different circumstances to consider.

Most Common Equine Insurance Policies

Restricted Perils

Also called Specified or Named Perils, Restriced Perils is the least expensive option and covers only what is listed in the policy, such as death by wind, fire and/or smoke, lightning, collision, or overturn in vehicular transit. Depending on the company, it may include theft.

Full Mortality

A full mortality insurance policy covers death due to any cause, except for willful neglect or destruction. It covers the insured horse in the event that he dies or must be humanely destroyed due to illness, accident, injury, disease, fire, smoke, lightning or theft.

Think of Restricted Perils and Full Mortality policies as “life insurance.”

Major Medical

Major Medical protects the horse owner against covered medical, veterinary, and surgical costs up to a specified amount per policy year.

Surgical

This policy reimburses for covered surgical expenses up to a specified amount per policy year. Surgical coverage applies to necessary procedures performed under general anesthesia, not elective surgeries, like castration.

Colic

This equine insurance policy reimburses for a medical or surgical colic.

Major Medical, Surgical and Colic endorsements aren’t available on their own, but can be added to a Full Mortality policy. Think of these policies as “health insurance.”

Equine Insurance Policy Details

“Full Mortality is the base policy, and then you can add to it,” says Rhonda Mack, an agent in the Ocala, Fla., office of EPIC Insurance, a nationwide company.

“Most insurance companies include a colic surgery endorsement with Full Mortality, but you can add additional coverage on top of that,” says Mack, noting that some companies allow “stacking” of endorsements.

A colic endorsement has a $10,000 limit and will reimburse the owner for medical or surgical colic expenses for an insured horse.

Major Medical typically covers issues like lameness, gastric ulcers, eye injuries, clinic costs, MRIs, et cetera, plus surgical costs, such as colic surgery. Some insurance companies include acupuncture and chiropractic in their Major Medical policy, but coverage varies with each company, so read your policy carefully.

The decision to purchase equine insurance is both financial and emotional.

“It’s based on your comfort level and what you worry about happening to your horse,” says Mack. “If your horse is facing a $12,000 colic surgery and you have to make a decision based on if you can afford it or not, insurance can give you peace of mind, knowing you have help with veterinary expenses.”

Horse Value

The premium for Full Mortality coverage is determined by the price you paid for the horse and his use (pleasure, show, racing, or breeding). If you bred the horse, your insurance agent can help determine a value based on stud fee, bloodlines, sales averages, et cetera.

“Most carriers now require a minimum Full Mortality insurance amount of $15,000 to be eligible for Major Medical,” says Mack.

The following examples are based on December 2023 policy prices.

An 8-year-old dressage horse insured for $25,000 under Full Mortality with a $10,000 major medical policy would have an annual premium of approximately $1,375.

A 10-year-old Quarter Horse trail horse insured for $5,500 with a $10,000 surgical endorsement and $5,000 free colic surgery would have an annual premium of approximately $350.

Reimbursement

Major Medical already includes surgical expenses up to a specified amount. For a relatively low price (usually under $200), owners can add a $10,000 surgical endorsement to their Full Mortality coverage.

Endorsements function by reimbursement, rather than paying the veterinarian directly. The horse owner pays the veterinarian and then turns in the invoices and veterinary report to be reimbursed for the covered expenses, less any deductible and copay.

For example, if the insured horse required a $9,000 colic surgery, after the deductible and co-pay are applied, the owner would be reimbursed about $8,000.

Horse Age

Age comes into play when insuring horses.

“After age 15, premiums get higher,” says Mack. “Most companies will insure to age 18, some to age 20. We consider all horses’ birthdays to be January 1, even if they’re born in June.”

Even though full mortality and surgical coverage aren’t usually available after age 20, Restricted Perils coverage is still offered.

Individual Horse Owner’s (IHO) Liability Coverage

Individual Horse Owner’s (IHO) liability coverage has nothing to do with the health of the horse. This policy protects the owner in the event their horse causes damage to a person or property.

“Equine liability is recommended,” says Mack. “Any time you own a horse, you have risk exposure.”

Coverage provides liability protection in many situations, such as if your horse gets loose at a show and injures someone.

You don’t need to own property to purchase this coverage, and it’s for those who don’t derive income from their horses. With IHO liability, the premium is based on the number of horses owned.

Mack says that an IHO liability policy with $1 million coverage covering a few horses generally costs less than $400 a year.

Many people mistakenly assume their personal homeowner’s policy extends to cover damage or injury caused by horses.

Insurance for Equine Businesses

People who own breeding and training farms or boarding stables should have a commercial liability or farm package policy, which includes the residence on the property as well as equine owner’s liability coverage. Care, custody & control is another option if you board horses you don’t own.

Let’s say your horse breaks through the fence and ends up on the road, causing an auto accident. If there is damage to the car and/or an injury or death of the car’s occupant(s), a resulting claim would not be covered under most homeowner’s policies.

However, if found negligent, it would be covered under a commercial farm owner’s policy or IHO liability policy. (Equine liability policies also cover defense costs).

Key Takeaway

If you decide to consider insurance coverage, don’t be afraid to talk to more than one provider, get multiple quotes, and ask plenty of questions.

In the end, your peace of mind is worth every penny.

This article about equine insurance policies appeared in the April 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Each year, hurricanes, wildfires, and severe storms force thousands across the country to evacuate their homes. When preparing for a potential natural disaster, it is best to follow the adage of “expect the best but prepare for the worst.” Taking the time now to make an emergency and natural disaster preparedness plan for your family—including your horses and other animals—can be lifesaving.

Startling Natural Disaster Statistics

According to a survey conducted by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), more than one in five pet owners (including horses) have evacuated their homes due to a disaster situation, and of those evacuees, nearly half have left at least one pet behind at the time of evacuation.

Of those who left at least one pet behind, nearly 30 percent cited not having enough time when the disaster struck as their reasoning for doing so, further emphasizing the need to prepare for an emergency in advance.

“We want to remind horse owners to always bring your horses and other animals with you if you need to evacuate,” says Christie Schulte Kappert, senior director of ASPCA Equine Welfare. “Leaving a horse or pet behind can expose them to numerous life-threatening hazards, including the inability to escape the impending emergency—such as flood waters, fires, and high winds—as well as having no access to fresh food and water for an unknown period.”

Horse Preparedness Before the Disaster

Your horses should be as equally prepared for a disaster emergency as your facility. The ASPCA’s Christie Shulte Kappert makes the following recommendations to ensure their readiness:

◆ Horses should be accustomed to wearing a halter.
◆ Practice loading on a trailer during calm conditions so horses are on autopilot during an emergency.
◆ Horses should be accustomed to being handled by strangers.
◆ Work with your neighbors or barn mates to practice loading each other’s horses so they are used to multiple types of trailers and handlers.

Horse Identification

In the case that you and your horse become separated during an evacuation, you will need to mark him with some sort of identification so you can be reunited later.

According to Schulte Kappert, microchips become a vital lifeline after times of disaster or other unforeseen events.

Once a chip is implanted, be certain to register it with the microchip’s manufacturer, as without registration, the microchip is not linked to any useful data. If you purchase a microchipped horse, be sure to update the personal contact info.

If microchipping is not an option, in an emergency Schulte Kappert recommends braiding an ID clip or luggage tag into your horse’s mane or tail or painting your phone number on his side with non-toxic paint.

In instances where microchipping is not available, tattoos can make a good second choice during non-emergency situations.

Emergency Kit

The ASPCA recommends that the following items be included in your natural disaster or emergency preparedness kit:

◆ Contact information for yourself and a confirmed emergency caretaker.
◆ Addresses and directions to local or regional sheltering options.
◆ Tack/equipment checklist, extra lead ropes, and extra halters.
◆ Veterinary records, including a current Coggins.
◆ Paperwork proving your ownership of your horse (branding papers, microchip registration, photos).
◆ A seven- to 10-day supply of feed, medications, and water and clean buckets.
◆ An equine first-aid kit that includes items like bandages, bandage scissors, and any necessary medications.

Faster Response Time

Severe weather events are stressful and scary for people and animals.

“Owners should create an emergency plan customized to their animals, location, facility and the likely scenarios that will cause an emergency; wildfire preparation is very different than a hurricane,” says Schulte Kappert. “Having a plan for your area’s possible scenario(s) will help you stay calm and act swiftly when the emergency arrives. Reach out to your county’s emergency management office or extension agents to follow guidelines about the disasters they plan to encounter and how to respond.”

For example, she says that many counties have designated fairgrounds as emergency shelters; you can use this type of information in creating your plan.

Working Together

Working together with your neighbors can also be extremely helpful. Schulte Kappert further recommends creating a phone tree/buddy system with other nearby horse owners and local farms.

Consider teaming up with other horse owners to pool your resources, including sharing trailer space and hay, and share your evacuation plans in advance.

“This is especially important for owners who board at a public facility or don’t own a trailer,” she says. “If you board, check with the stable owner about their emergency management plans and make sure you and your horse are prepared to respond accordingly.”

Schulte Kappert also recommends having a plan in place in the event you are away from home when evacuation orders are issued.

“Identify an emergency caretaker for your horse and other animals in advance and provide them with your plan,” she says.

Trailer Preparations

Another part of your emergency natural disaster preparedness plan should include making certain that your trailer is ready for transport at any time. Any time you may need to haul your horse, it’s important to inspect your trailer and its tire pressure, brake battery, and safety chains or cables.

It’s critical to have a trailer big enough for all your equines, including a place to tether them inside. If you have advance notice of an impending disaster, hook up your trailer ahead of time.

Act Swiftly

Whether it is you or a caretaker, it’s important to act promptly once evacuation orders have been announced. Schulte Kappert advises planning as if you may not be allowed to return home for at least seven to 10 days. She says that you should follow the instructions of local and state officials and evacuate as soon as possible, as it may take additional time to load your horses, other animals, and supplies.

Emergency and natural disaster preparedness does not have to be a daunting task. Instead, having a plan in place can help to make an emergency less frightening for everyone.

Emergency and Natural Disaster Preparedness with Horses: Key Takeaway

Natural disasters can strike without warning, and preparedness is essential to ensuring the safety of both your family and your horses. By taking proactive steps now to create a comprehensive emergency plan for your animals, you can minimize the risks and stress that come with facing a crisis. Stay informed, stay prepared, and stay safe.

This article about horse emergency and natural disaster preparedness appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Despite sparse coverage on national news, the devastation left in Hurricane Helene’s wake is unimaginable, according to those with boots on the ground in North Carolina. According to military and government personnel, due to the storm’s extensive damage, rescue and relief efforts will continue for weeks and months as they attempt to aid people and animals stranded in the wake of this recent storm, especially those in rural, mountain towns.

One of my little riding lesson students once said that making new friends at the barn is really easy, “because horse people are just different.” And as an adult, I can’t agree with her more. Equestrians are a different breed, and when our fellow horse lovers or their beloved animals are in need of help, our community is always ready to help. So here’s what you need to know:

First and Foremost: Civilians, Please Stay Home!

Government officials, military leaders, are insisting that civilians stay out of affected areas, including Asheville, Boone, and Candor. It has continued to rain in many of the heavily affected areas since the start of the storm, so the water hasn’t had time to recede. Access to many of the small, rural, mountain towns is impossible by motor vehicle; many affected areas are currently only accessible by air due to washed out roadways or landslides. There have also been episodes of violence upon relief workers and people bringing food or supplies into the area because the people stranded in these mountain areas are getting very desperate. Civilians who want to help should not attempt to enter these areas. Trained professionals like police and members of the military need to be able to do their jobs, and untrained civilians trying to help end up doing more harm than good. They block roadways, and often get themselves into situations that they need rescued from, taking time and resources from rescue efforts.

The Best Way to Help is with Your Wallet

In these first days, rescue efforts are focused mainly on human lives — and in reality, animals can only receive the care they need if their humans also have their most basic necessities met.

But animal and equine rescue organizations are mobilizing, and these organizations will be working for weeks and months ahead.

Currently, the best way to help is to donate.

Here are some organizations that will be in desperate need of financial support in the coming days, weeks, and months ahead:

◆ American Red Cross North Carolina: In order for animals to get the care and help that they need, their humans need to be safe as well. To make a financial donation, call 1-800-RED CROSS (800-733-2767), text HELENE to 90999, or donate online.

◆ Operation Airdrop ensures that essential supplies reach those in need when ground transportation is compromised. For more information about Hurricane Helene Relief Efforts, visit here.

◆ Animal Search and Rescue (ASAR) is staged in Statesville and providing immediate relief for animals in the mountains. Visit here to help.

◆ Fleet of Angels is an equine-specific rescue organization that is currently organizing vets, equine supplies, and relief for horses. To help equines affected by Hurricane Helene, donate to the most urgent need or natural disaster fund here.

◆ The Humane Society of the United States is also in action in the Southeast, supporting animals. Please visit here to donate.

◆ Green River Foundation: If you are interested in making a financial contribution to recovery efforts, you may write a check to the Green River Foundation and mail to the above address with “Hurricane Helene relief” in the memo. 100% of your donation will go to the relief efforts in Polk, Rutherford, Henderson and Buncombe Counties in North Carolina and Spartanburg County, South Carolina. 100% of the contribution will be tax deductible.

◆ Tryon International is hosting first responders. Beginning Thursday, October 3, a supply distribution and donation drop off point will be open from 10 a.m. -6 p.m. daily for free supplies available to anyone who needs them, for humans, pets and livestock. This distribution center will operate as a drive-through, staffed with volunteers and Tryon International team members, as part of the Polk County network of disaster relief locations. Follow signs for drive-through pick up or drop off of supplies.

Location:
2676 John Shehan Rd,
Mill Spring, NC 28756

Limited showers and laundry facilities are available at the Lodging Office building at 2676 John Shehan Road. Please bring your own towels for shower facilities, and expect a wait.

Thursday, October 3, a free community meal will be provided near the Tryon International Lodging Office, with more information to come.

How to Help with Tryon’s Efforts:

Donations are being accepted starting Wednesday, October 2 for the supply distribution and donation drop off point, starting at 10 a.m. at the Indoor Complex at Tryon International. The following items are being requested:

◆ Water
◆ Non-perishable food items
◆ Hygiene items
◆ Baby formula and diapers
◆ Towels
◆ Socks and underwear
◆ First-aid kits
◆ Batteries and flashlights
◆ Portable chargers/battery packs
◆ Animal hay and feed, pet food, and kitty litter
◆ Shovels, tarps, chainsaws, and work gloves
◆ Hand sanitizer
◆ Buckets and trash bags
◆ Coolers

Please contact media@tryon.com if you would like to volunteer to receive donations or to help distribute items to community members.

Many have asked if they can ship donations to Tryon to distribute to the first responders and via our pending supply center. The answer is yes: if you are unable to physically bring donations but want to ship supplies to Tryon International for distribution, you can do so at the below address.

Tryon International
Attn: Hurricane Donations
4066 Pea Ridge Road
Mill Spring, NC 28756

All Tryon International restaurants will be opened starting Wednesday, October 2, to support our community, guests and first responders on-site. They will continue offering all-you-can-eat buffets that have previously been offered in Campagna Italian Cuisine, relocating to Legends Club.

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The job of the base is to make a level surface to support the footing above. If the base is properly installed, there will never be low spots, deep spots or areas that collect water in your arena. The ideal footing helps cushion your horse’s every stride by allowing his hooves to slide just a little bit as he sets them down and provides a firm surface for his hooves to dig into as he pushes off. Leaving your ground as is will never provide these benefits, so as a result your horse’s performance will suffer because he won’t be able to trust the footing, and he will remember, perhaps spook, at uneven spots. Without proper drainage, you may also find your home riding arena under water and unusable most of the time.

Robert Malmgren, author of The Equine Arena Handbook: Developing a User-Friendly Facility, is considered the foremost authority on horse arenas. He says creating a riding arena at home on your own is very hard if not impossible because you need several players to help you avoid pitfalls.

“Making an arena seems like a lot of complications, but you’ll avoid mistakes if you plan right and employ the right people,” explains Malmgren, who is from Colorado Springs, Colo. “Mistakes are very costly to correct after the arena is installed.”

Proper Planning Prevents Problems

Before you put a shovel in the ground, sit down and get organized. Think about where you want to put the horse riding arena at home. Right next to the barn may seem convenient, but if that area collects water, think again. Drainage is an issue in every arena, so you’ll want to avoid land that’s a perpetual pond, if possible.

“As we get into global warming and climate change, we are going to have some extremes in moisture,” Malmgren adds. “This year in Colorado we’ve had some very extreme rains with a long duration of storms. That kind of rain would inundate an arena with drainage problems.”

Next, you need to determine the soil type in the site. Malmgren says to seek free assistance through people at your local office of the Natural Resources Conservation Services.

“They are the government’s soil people for the entire country,” he says. “Every county should have an office. Go in and tell them what you’re building and ask about what kind of soil you have. They usually have the information at hand, and can tell you whether it’s possible to create an arena in that area. They also provide good information, such as the percentage of sand, silt, clay and gravel in your soil. They will often come out to your site.”

Make sure to have a plat map of your property with you so the NRCS officials can pinpoint the location. They might not be familiar with the arena characteristics you require, so tell them what you need to know: type of soil, three feet in depth. Also, ask if the soil is high in clay, which is important regarding water absorption and base stability.

The next step is to obtain a permit. Getting a permit for a home riding arena might sound like overkill, but most counties require at least a grading permit if a certain amount of land is disturbed. You may also need an erosion and sediment control permit. You may not think you are disturbing that much land, but you will disturb twice as much earth as the size of your horse arena.

Even if you don’t think you need a permit, double check with your local government about its building inspection procedures because rules do change. If you begin building before proper approvals or inspections take place, your local government’s building inspection department has the right to stop the construction until proper permits and procedures are met. Sometimes this includes paying fines and penalties.

You’ll need to get yet another expert on your side—a soil consultant. Soil consultants are engineers who understand all the ins and outs of working with soil. They are the ones called in to advise facilities such as baseball fields, golf courses and parking lots. Look for a soil consultant under listings for engineering consultants.

The NRCS office may also recommend someone in your area. “A soil consultant is important because you’ll be moving soil and he’ll know how to help you do that correctly,” Malmgren says. “He can look at the NRCS’s information and tell you what you need to do to make the arena work for your situation.”

Starting at the Bottom: The Base

The base is important for a successful horse riding arena. Bottom line: You will never have a good arena without an adequate base. Your soil consultant will help determine your base requirements and if the soil will form a stable base. The base should be about six inches below the surface, if it’s a stable base. “If it isn’t stable, you might have to bring in some crushed stone to create a firm base,” Malmgren says. “You want the base to be firm because it will create a level surface for the footing above. The stone will have to be rolled when installed to create maximum hardness and evenness, and so it stays in place.”

Your topsoil might make a good base and you can put your footing right on top of it, but that’s the exception rather than the rule. Soil situations are different for everyone. It can even be vastly different within the same locale. One neighbor might have clay soil while another has sand.

Some areas of the country are subject to “frost heave” where the ground expands in the winter, causing rocks to come up to the surface. In the spring you’ll find rocks on the surface, and you’ll have to pick them up every year. The soil consultant will tell you if frost heave might occur in your area. If you have frost heave, extra heavy rolling at the time of construction will help keep your base in place. The NRCS may also give you this information at no charge.

Creating a Drain for a Riding Arena

Anyone who has had training interrupted because of a flooded arena knows how frustrating it is. Sinking money into a horse arena that sits underwater part of the year is a waste. Your soil consultant can help you avoid drainage issues.

He or she will first determine what your soil is like from the surface down to three feet deep. So perhaps you’ll have three feet of pure clay or maybe six inches of loam and then six inches of sand, followed by gravel.

“This is important to understand because you need to know how your soil handles water,” Malmgren says. “For instance, a gravel layer is going to hold some water where clay will not. If you have heavy rains, you’ll know how much water you’re going to be able to store before you have problems. And then during construction, you’ll know how to work with that.”

If your soil doesn’t drain well, don’t give up on your dream arena. There are ways you can limit flooding. You can install a French drain, which carries water away from the arena. There are several ways to create this type of drain for each area of the country. The NRCS and your consultant can help with water drainage issues.

You can also crown the arena, so that water drains off it. Or you can raise the whole arena above ground level.

What’s Underfoot in a Riding Arena?

Many types of footing additives are on the market, from shredded felt to crumb rubber to poly microfibers, but most footing “recipes” begin with sand. And any old sand won’t do. You want sand that will bind and hold together.

Sand comes in a variety of shapes; some is sharp and angular, and some is rounded. Sand performs in different ways depending upon its characteristics. It can be slippery if it’s round, like tiny ball bearings. The round grain will act like beach sand and be unsteady underfoot. It will be difficult to move through it, particularly if it’s dry.

Sharp sand binds together to hold better, which is the preferred footing for arenas. “Look at your sand grains with a hand magnifying glass if you want to get down to details, so you know what you’re getting,” Malmgren says.

Finding quality sand can be a challenge. If you have neighbors who have an arena, ask them if they are happy with their sand and where they got it. If your neighbor has a good riding arena and soil similar to yours, then you know that type of sand at your home will work for you. Also, ask how many inches your neighbor used. Footing depth ranges from two to six inches, depending upon your land situation and discipline. (For example, dressage riders generally prefer a shallower footing while reiners like deeper footing.) However, always use less footing than you think you will need. It’s easier to add more than to remove.

Sand by itself works well, but you need to be careful when watering. Too much water can flood the arena, making it unworkable for a long time. Wet sand is harder than dry sand, but very dry sand can be inefficient and create a dust problem.

Footing additives can help to improve cushion and improve traction. They also clump sand together better and prevent compaction. Some may help prevent freezing and cut down on trenching along the walls of the arena. Additives also create footing that requires less harrowing and watering. When choosing any additive, make sure that it’s manufactured for riding arenas.

Sometimes people use arenas as dumping grounds for horse manure and shavings. Although it can hold water well, manure creates a health issue for both humans and horses. The shavings also break down quickly and create a slippery surface.

Most arenas with heavy use will have a rut with half of the footing falling out of the arena. Pulling the footing back in the arena is a killer, Malmgren says. “Boards installed around the arena will solve the problem,” he advises.

“Untreated, unpainted lumber is best. I don’t like using any chemicals in an arena. If horses are turned out, they can gnaw on the boards. The height of the board depends upon the nature of your footing. If it’s a lot of footing, you’ll need bigger boards. It’s best to use higher boards because you may need to add more footing later on.”

Grass (turf) arenas are suitable under the right circumstances, depending on your annual rainfall and the type of grass. “Bunch grass doesn’t make good footing because soil is in between the plants, creating an uneven surface,” Malmgren says.

Key Takeaways

In this article, you’ve learned about building a horse arena and the DIY aspects of creating a home arena, including proper planning, the importance of the base and footing, drainage solutions, footing materials, maintenance, and grass arenas.

Read on for tips on arena maintenance so that you’re prepared to maintain your home riding arena.

This article about building a home riding arena originally appeared in the September 2007 issue of Horse Illustrated. Click here to subscribe.

The post How to Build a Riding Arena at Home appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Some fencing is simply not safe for horses under any circumstances; these include barbed wire and large, square mesh. Barbed wire can easily entrap a panicked horse that tries to run through it or jump over it, ripping hide and doing career- and life-ending damage to tendons and other internal structures it exposes. Fencing made of square mesh should ideally have openings of no more than 3 inches square; any larger and you risk trapping a hoof in the fence.

If you’re putting in fencing on your own horse property, there are quite a few factors that come into play during the decision-making process, including terrain, budget, aesthetics and maintenance. All fences should be between 4 ½ and 5 feet tall (at minimum) to safely contain horses. The bottom part of the fence should be 6 to 8 inches off the ground, which will prevent foals from rolling out of the field (if you have them); it will also discourage equines from sticking their heads under the fence to graze.

Some commonly used fencing options include:

Wooden Fencing

Highly visible and strong, wood fences can be expensive to install and can require a lot of maintenance. Weather and teeth can take a toll on even the most well-constructed board fence, necessitating regular repair and replacement of boards.

Horse-Safe Wire Fencing

◆ Woven wire is one of the more inexpensive options for horse fencing, though it is recommended that the visibility of this fence be improved by using a top board or electrified tape at the top. This will also discourage horses from leaning on the fence.

◆ V-mesh wire (also called no-climb fencing) is one of the safest fencing options out there. This type of fence has a diamond pattern that makes it as effective at keeping animals out as it is in keeping horses in. The downside is cost; it is the most expensive wire fence for horses.

◆ Smooth wire fences, though inexpensive to construct, are some of the most difficult fences for horses to see; because of this, smooth wire used for horse pastures is usually coated with white PVC and used with some sort of electric (either tape or a hot strand) to keep them from leaning on it.

PVC Fencing

While very visually pleasing, PVC fencing is extremely costly and is designed to break under pressure. It’s a good idea to use some type of electric fencing in conjunction with PVC fence as horses will soon learn that the boards will give if leaned on.

Pipe Fencing

Though pipe steel fences are strong and durable, there is no “give” should a horse run into it. Transport and labor to install this type of fence can be high, and, once installed, modifications are difficult to make.

Electric Fencing for Horses

Electric fencing can be used by itself or in conjunction with almost any other type of fence. Electric wire and tape are inexpensive, yet they increase the effectiveness and longevity of other fencing materials by preventing horses from leaning or chewing on them. It typically takes only one run-in with a charge to keep horses away from fencelines that are hot.

No matter what type of horse fencing you choose, the safety of your equines should be your No. 1 priority.

Further Reading:
◆ Seven Fencing Mistakes
◆ Fence Maintenance
◆ Fence Repair Checklist

The post 5 Best Types of Fencing for Horse Farms appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

There is much more to horse trailer ownership than simply hitching up and driving to shows or trail rides. Routine maintenance is key to ensuring your trailer lasts a lifetime, retains its value, and keeps your horse safe while on the road. Properly caring for your horse trailer with routine maintenance can also help you avoid expensive repairs in the future.

The list of items to bear in mind when maintaining your horse trailer can feel a little overwhelming if you are unsure where to start. Luckily, only several maintenance items need to be inspected annually, while others are quick checks you can easily add into your hauling routine.

Annual inspections at professional RV and trailer repair shops are great to do before show season starts so they can look at multiple items during one appointment. Plus, you will have plenty of time in case there is an issue or parts need to be ordered.

1. Tires, Tires, Tires

Starting from the bottom up, you want your tires to be in the best possible shape. It’s worth investing in high-quality tires to prevent blowouts while on the road hauling horses.

You will want to keep a frequent eye on your tires for any holes, punctures, loss of tread, or other signs of wear and tear. And don’t forget to routinely check your tire pressure.

Similar to your car, you will need to replace your trailer’s tires every five to six years, regardless of what they look like, because certain wear and aging is not visible to the naked eye.

2. Lights and Turn Signals

One of the easiest ways to verify that your brake lights, running lights, and turn signals are working efficiently is to ask a friend who can walk around while you are in the driver’s seat.

Press your foot on the brakes, test your headlights, and flip on your turn signals as your friend walks around your truck and trailer to see if these lights are all working as they should.

You should check all your lights and turn signals throughout the year, since you might not immediately notice if a light goes out.

3. Brakes and Bearings

You will want to ensure that your brake mechanisms are working properly so you don’t slide, skid, or jackknife. If you haul your horse trailer to a repair shop, the technicians can test your brakes and service your bearings for you, ensuring that your trailer stops at the same moment as your truck.

Your emergency brake actuator should be inspected and tested, too. These vital checks should be done at least once a year, depending on the number of miles you drive.

4. Floors and Roof

The floor and roof comprise one of the most important inspections, as they can rot and/or corrode. Like your brakes, they can be checked by professionals and should be repaired immediately.

Don’t let a damaged floor or leaky roof go for too long, since the restoration cost will grow and the issue could even become irreparable. Wooden floors are particularly susceptible to dry rot.

Although they don’t rust, you’ll want to look for any stress fractures in welds of aluminum floors. You may also see corrosion/pitting with an aluminum floor as a result of overexposure to manure and urine.

By pulling out and pressure washing floor mats at least once a year, you can catch weaknesses or damage in your trailer. If you haul frequently, mats should be pulled and cleaned multiple times throughout the season, with plenty of time to dry.

5. Doors and Windows

During your yearly check, confirm that your trailer doors and windows will not fly open if you are driving. Test out the locks and seals to ensure that everything is held together with the frame and jamb.

If there are any problems with the seam, or you find cracks and tears, the door or window could fly open or shatter, scaring your horses as well as causing more physical damage to your trailer.

Leaks in your doors or windows can lead to water damage. If you take your trailer to a shop, technicians can check your hinges and welds, verifying that everything is tightened or greased properly.

6. Coupler and Hitch Ball

Every trailer should have a coupler (hitch) that operates smoothly. While you establish that the coupler is not worn down, you can grease the hitch ball. By smearing some wheel-bearing grease on the ball, the coupler should have an easier time locking onto it as you lower the jack.

You can do a quick check that the hitch and ball work correctly each time you hook up. At the same time, you can see if the safety chain welds and snaps are still in good condition.

7. Trailer Storage

Even though proper storage is often an overlooked component of trailer ownership, it is crucial in maintaining the integrity of your horse trailer, especially if you live in harsh climates with heavy snow or winds.

You might want to consider investing in a cover that protects the exterior if leaving your trailer outside for long periods of time. If possible, park alongside a building that provides protection from the elements but does not have any trees that are at risk of falling on your trailer.

8. Regular Cleaning

Going the extra mile when cleaning your trailer will never be a waste of time. Not only will it prevent rust and corrosion, but your horses will thank you for hauling them in a place that is neat, tidy and safe.

Pick out all manure from the horse area after every trip and allow wet spots to fully dry. On sunny days, consider opening your trailer’s doors and windows to let air circulate.

Likewise, you should regularly pressure-wash and clean your mats, walls, and floors to get stubborn dirt and grime out. During your cleaning routine, you can look for damage or leaks that would not have been easily found otherwise.

Depending on how often you haul, you should wash and wax your trailer at least twice a year. Maintaining that like-new shine both looks good and adds years onto your trailer’s life.

Whether you own a bumper pull or a gooseneck, each maintenance item is the same and needs to be attended to. Horse trailers with living quarters come with a longer list, since they need all basic routine work done in addition to the upkeep of extra wiring, A/C, propane, plumbing, waste and water tanks, kitchen appliances, batteries, generators, awnings, and more.

Routine maintenance is not everyone’s favorite part of owning a trailer, but it’s essential to being safe on the road. Knowing which items on your trailer need habitual care will help you properly review your checklist before you embark on your next exciting hauling journey.

Further Reading on Horse Trailers

◆ Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs
◆ Finding the Right Truck to Tow a Horse Trailer
◆ Improve Your Gas Mileage While Pulling a Horse Trailer

This article about horse trailer maintenance appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Horse Trailer Maintenance appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Travel for horses has come a long way since pre-1950, when railroad shipping was the main option for covering long distances. Today’s horses frequently travel many miles for competition, breeding and relocation. When it comes to long-distance hauling, should you haul your own horse or use a commercial shipper? Learning what’s involved can help you make the smartest and safest decision.

Veterinary Input Before Hauling

Travel is stressful on horses, although some handle it better than others.

While you can never eliminate risk completely, good planning can greatly minimize it, according to Woodrow Friend, DVM, who has been a veterinarian with Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital in Lexington, Ky., for 21 years.

Paperwork: “Every state requires a certificate of veterinary inspection (CVI), but some also require a permit number to enter; you just need to know beforehand,” says Friend. Some equine events and boarding barns also require proof of certain vaccinations.

Confirm ahead of time what paperwork is required at your destination and any states you’ll be traveling through. Health certificates should be obtained within 30 days of travel.

Proof of negative Coggins is always required. Confirm with your destination, as some states require a six-month Coggins, instead of the standard one-year test.

Prevent illness: Take temperatures before shipping and never ship a horse with even a low-grade fever.

Friend recommends preloading with electrolytes—either paste or top-dressed on their feed—to encourage your horse to consume more water before traveling.

“I’ve seen more pneumonia than colic from shipping in my practice,” he says. “You’re dealing with a long-necked animal that needs to drop his head to drain the airways.”

As he explains, when horses are tied with their heads up for hours, the mucous and natural secretions in the airways can’t clear out quickly, which increases the chance of respiratory problems. This risk is heightened when horses are eating hay from a suspended net with wind blowing dust and bedding particles around.

Friend says the best scenario for long-distance travel is a box stall setup so hay can be at floor level and the horse can drop his head to clear his airway. If this isn’t possible, and the horse is tied, but frets without hay, he suggests dampening the hay slightly to reduce dust and fine particles.

Overheating: Finally, don’t underestimate how much body heat horses generate in a closed trailer. Check that all vents and windows are open (with grills and/or screens in place) to maximize air flow.

“During the summer, driving through the night is easier on horses because it’s cooler,” says Friend.

Consider a Commercial Hauler

A major advantage of using a reputable commercial shipper is that they must be Department of Transportation (DOT) compliant, so they are precise about safety regulations and generally have two drivers per rig.

When you factor in stops for fuel and checking horses, an average of 50 mph is typical for a commercial hauler, notes Jim Welsh, owner of Elite Horse Transport based out of Waco, Ky.

Welsh uses air ride tractor trailers and hauls predominately show horses (hunter/jumpers and dressage) and some racehorses, both Thoroughbreds and Standardbreds.

They operate primarily from New York, Virginia and Kentucky to all points in the U.S. and Canada. Twice a month, he hauls horses to and from California.

“We load up in Lexington (Ky.) and will be in Southern California within 60 hours,” says Welsh. “Horses are in box stalls and stay on the truck the whole time.”

The rig is equipped with cameras so drivers can continually view the horses. Hay and water is in front of horses the entire trip. Stalls are bedded with shavings.

“On a trip this long, we stop and shut down for four to five hours once, and will have a two-hour stop twice during the trip. If a horse shows us he needs more rest, we’ll stop more often,” he adds, explaining that stopping encourages horses to rest, drink and urinate.

In a commercial van, a box stall measures about 8’x8′. Because the horse is not tied, he can position himself however he’s most comfortable—whether facing forward, backward, or diagonally.

The “stall and a half” size (also called a double stall) is usually 4’x8′, and the horse is cross-tied.

“Numerous university studies have proven a box stall is the best way for a horse to travel,” says Welsh, who only ships cross-country if horses are in box stalls.

Welsh also gets called out regularly on rescue missions to assist owners who have a breakdown while hauling their own horses.

“Bring extra water and hay with you,” he advises. “Check your route and plan ahead for what you’ll do if something goes wrong. Realize that if you only have one driver, a 700-mile trip is going to be a challenge. You have to be realistic with your expectations, especially if you’re driving through the night. If you’re not used to driving like a truck driver, it’s a daunting task to drive 1,000 miles and be concerned about horses behind you.”

Hauling Your Own

Angela and Jackie Ganter barrel race professionally, which puts them on the road all summer traveling to rodeos across the western U.S. and up into Canada. The mother-daughter team live in Abilene, Texas, where they own and operate a boarding facility.

The Ganters haul their own horses to competitions, typically loading five horses in their air ride five-horse living quarters trailer pulled by a small Freightliner.

The distance between rodeos can vary anywhere from three to 15 hours.

“If we aren’t in a time crunch, we like to split trips into two days and lay over somewhere,” says Jackie. “If we have a time crunch, we will drive straight through and take turns driving. We usually don’t unload unless it’s a 10-plus hour trip. Then we’ll stop halfway and let them out for 30 minutes or so to get their heads down, walk and get a drink. If we have time to spend the night, we’d rather do that. We use horsemotel.com and make plans in advance.”

The Ganters use slow-feeder hay nets so horses can pick at hay while en route.

They always bring extra water, feed, and hay, as well as different weight blankets to be prepared for weather changes.

“One time we were stranded for 24 hours on the side of road during a blizzard because the interstate was shut down due to treacherous conditions,” says Jackie.

Plan Your Stops

Friend points out that the ride can be very different for horses traveling in an air ride tractor-trailer versus a standard horse trailer. In addition, traveling in stop-and-go traffic puts more physical strain on a horse than uninterrupted travel at highway speed on the interstate.

Although it might seem like your horse is just standing in the trailer, he’s constantly adjusting his balance to accommodate for changes in speed, braking, turns and lane changes, not to mention uneven road surfaces and trailer vibration.

This is why horsemen who regularly haul long distances stop every four or five hours for 20 to 30 minutes. This allows horses to relax, drink and urinate, something they often won’t do while the trailer is in motion.

“Even just stopping for a short time will give their legs a break from the beating of driving down the road,” says Ganter.

Friend stresses the importance of having your horse drink during his journey.

“Some horses won’t touch water when traveling, but you have to know your horse,” he says. “If you have a horse with history of colic or tying up, you’ll have to stop and offer water and walk him more frequently.”

Unless you’ve stopped at a stabling area to stay overnight or for several hours, it’s safer for horses to remain in the trailer during breaks. With water breaks and hay provided, most horses will be fine in the trailer for 10 to 12 hours.

“You can’t just pull over at any rest stop to take your horse out and walk him around,” says Friend. “If you’re going on a long trip, you need to preplan stops and layovers.”

On trips of 24 hours or more, plan for a layover of about 12 hours so your horse can relax in a stall or pen where he can eat and drink normally. It’s not uncommon for horses to drink less than usual while in transit, so layovers help them stay hydrated.

Preparing for Long-Distance Horse Hauling

When hauling your own horse, ensure your trailer and tow vehicle are prepared for a long trip. This includes checking:

◆ Fluid levels
◆ Brakes
◆ Lights
◆ Tire condition and recommended inflation PSI, including spare tires (for tow vehicle and trailer)
◆ Necessary equipment to change tires
◆ Trailer wheel bearings (should be re-packed regularly)
◆ Trailer vents/windows/doors
◆ Full fuel tank

Use absorbent bedding so horses feel more comfortable urinating in the trailer. Large-flake shavings absorb moisture well and aren’t as dusty as small flakes. Avoid sawdust, which contributes dust and particulates to the air your horse is breathing.

If you have questions or concerns prior to making a long-distance trip, talk with your veterinarian.

This article about long-distance horse hauling appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Long-Distance Horse Hauling appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

EV Foundation Sires

Good performance horses often carry lineages that back up promises of future excellence. Ditto for electric vehicles (EVs). Albeit not as romantic as a Byerly Turk or Godolphin Barb, these “foundation sires” began taking their first wobbly steps in the late 1990s and early 2000s, with a limited number of electric pickup trucks produced by Chevrolet (the S-10 Electric) and Ford (the Ranger EV).

Since 2009, more have been joining the electric conversion conversation. The 2010s saw Phoenix Motorcars introduce a test fleet of all-electric SUTs (Sports Utility Trucks). Miles Electric Vehicles began importing a small Chinese electric pickup, the ZX40ST, and Canadian-based Ecotuned offered an all-electric conversion of the Ford F-150 for use by Hydro Quebec and Montreal Airport.

Not Just a Prospect

Fast forward to January 2023, and Robert Duffer, senior editor at TheCarConnection.com, said, “Electric pickup trucks are no longer a prospect: They are a reality. And they’re exceptional.”

Take the Ford F-150 Lightning. Exhibiting the same fine breeding as its bestselling forbearer, the Ford F-150, this EV pickup truck was named overall Car Connection Best Car To Buy 2023, saying the Lightnings are “not just great trucks, they’re evolutionary vehicles.”

This season, roughly half a dozen American-made electric pickup trucks are for sale or under development. But like young racehorses at an elite auction, a buyer’s investment can be considerable.

The work truck that became the family truck can now double as a mobile boardroom and, commensurate with that evolution, J.D. Power says the price of pickups has increased about 3 percent a year since 2009.

Gas-powered pickups account for nearly 20 percent of all new-vehicle sales, with consumers paying an average of $60,000 for a new truck in 2022.

“Automakers have promised a $40,000 electric truck, but no one has yet to deliver one,” says Duffer. “In the first year of sales, the F-150 Lightning experienced three price hikes, amounting to a 40 percent increase as of December 2022.”

If this leaves some feeling financially over-horsed, there are options. A 2023 federal EV tax credit of $7,500 can be applied to new EV and fuel cell electric vehicle (FCV) trucks and SUVs costing less than $80,000 whose final assembly is in North America (see IRS.gov’s Credits for New Clean Vehicles).

EVs listing for under $80,000 include the Ford F-150 Lightning (starting at $57,869) and 2024 Chevrolet Silverado EV ($39,900 base price), which shares an Ultium battery platform with the pricier ($86,245 EV2 base) GMC Hummer EV.

Two dark horses whose price and delivery are TBD are the Ram 1500 EV Revolution, aka “Ram Rev” around the barn, from Stellantix (nee Fiat Chrysler), and the mysterious stainless steel, wedge-shaped Tesla Cybertruck, hyped to offer a 500-mile range and tow capacity up to 14,000 pounds.

Among proven bloodlines stands a fierce little surprise talent that has been handily winning accolades, including the highest overall satisfaction ranking of any vehicle in the 2023 J.D. Power U.S. Electric Vehicle Experience Ownership Study, plus 2023 Car Connection Best Luxury Car to Buy, and 2022 MotorTrend Truck of the Year and Motor Authority Best Car to Buy.

Don’t let fancy introductions fool you. This EV is a proven workhorse. Meet the Rivian R1T, the performance prospect that everyone will be talking about.

Rivian to the Rescue

California-based Rivian made the motor industry sit up and take notice in 2022 with the R1T ($74,800-$98,800), the first available battery electric pickup truck. The Standard (135-kwh) all-wheel drive has about 260 miles of range per full charge; the popular mid-range (135-kwh) has about 328 miles, and the Max (180-kwh) pack quad-motor R1T has a 400-mile range.

“By rethinking how a pickup truck can be built, how it can be propelled, how it can drive, how its spaces might be used, how we could interact with it, and to expand its target demographic, Rivian has forced the industry and market to reassess expectations,” wrote MotorTrend reviewers. “The R1T is not just an intellectual exercise; it is at its core a good truck by traditional definitions, too.”

Including quietly going where few have gone before: to a real farm, to do real chores.

In this case, to Farm Sanctuary, whose Los Angeles, Calif., and Watkins Glen, N.Y., locations have been havens of peace for rescued farm animals and retired horses for decades.

Christopher Kokotajlo, HR coordinator for Farm Sanctuary, was working as an environmental caregiver when MotorTrend contacted their organization in 2018 about testing four mid-size trucks. That “test ride” went well enough to earn a callback.

“[MotorTrend] loved our mission and had such a great experience collaborating with us that they wanted to do it again,” says Kokotajlo. Would Farm Sanctuary be interested in testing out an EV truck?

“They wanted to test the Rivian in ‘real-world scenarios,’” he says. “We let them know the kinds of tasks we routinely do, like loading hay to feed, hooking up trailers, et cetera. Farm Sanctuary uses large trucks to haul feed, equipment, and material, as well as large trailers when we need to perform rescues or transport larger animals.”

They’re always looking to improve transportation. Kokotajlo says the FS Environment team would kid about getting an electric truck “for both the ‘cool factor’ and ‘doing good for the environment’ factor.”

The truck was a hit.

“It looked sleek and futuristic while maintaining a ‘truck’ look,” says Kokotajlo. “It was silent while driving, which was great. We have a blind sheep named Biscuit who gets startled when we run heavy machinery, but he was very calm when we were driving by.”

The farm’s senior rescue horses, Darla, Joanna and Zoe, also tend to spook if a truck unexpectedly rumbles by, so for them, the EV silence was golden.

“Based on Joanna’s injuries, we speculate she was used for horse tripping at an illegal rodeo, but once you earn her trust, she’s a sweetheart,” says Kokotajlo. Joanna’s companion, Zoe, “loves her hay and isn’t afraid to let you know!” As will Darla, a malnourished surrender who’s now the feisty queen of the paddock.

When the Rivian drove by, “They stayed peacefully eating their hay.”

Inside, the truck’s cab was spacious.

“It fit five people easily, which means two can fit with plenty of space for tools and equipment,” says Kokotajlo. “There’s extra storage, like the ‘frunk’ (front trunk), and more space than usual between the bed and cab. The bed had a durable liner and cover that could lock to protect valuables.

“There was plenty of room to stack feed in the back and, when pulling the trailer, even as a passenger you couldn’t feel the truck working hard. It gripped the ground and maintained traction, making for safe handling on rocky or sandy terrain. Lastly, the truck was easy to hook up. It has hydraulic suspension that allowed for more flexibility in lowering the hitch onto the ball.”

EV at Work

MotorTrend wanted them to ask the R1T to perform two tasks Farm Sanctuary would otherwise have used traditional trucks for:

1. Hooking up a horse trailer and backing it into a pen.

2. Loading up the bed with hay to feed.

“The truck performed very well for these tasks, and I had no complaints,” says Kokotajlo. “Another bonus was, when running into town for errands, we wouldn’t be using gas and would be able to come home and plug it in rather than refuel.” In the long run, Kokotajlo feels that would save Farm Sanctuary money.

To test loading the bed with hay, they used the farm’s standard three-string bales, which measure 16″x22″x44″ and—depending on the type of hay or straw—weigh in at 50-100 pounds each.

“We fit five or six bales but, with careful planning, and using rope to tie it down, we could have stacked 10 to 12,” says Kokotajlo. “We have a hoop house where we store our hay (alfalfa, barley, orchard, timothy), which is fed to our cows, horses, goats and sheep. We also load up a trailer to bring out to the feeders along the back part of our property.”

That’s not to say that some aspects of the electric workhorse’s performance didn’t raise more questions than they answered.

“We make long drives with animals in the back, sometimes to emergencies where we can’t spend 30 to 60 minutes charging,” he says. “I’m curious about how the range alters when pulling a 20-foot trailer with a few large animals in back. MotorTrend was not able to speak to this, and I believe this [could be] a limiting factor to using an electric truck.

“The other thing I would love to see is the ability to install a gooseneck. I know many folks prefer goosenecks and there is not an option for this yet. [Goosenecks] are great for turn radius and tack areas that do not significantly reduce trailer space.

“Also, the towing capacity is stated as 11,000 pounds, which is toward the lower end of most of our trucks. This might not be an issue, depending on [your needs].”

Feeding the EV

Just how easy did Farm Sanctuary—with real mouths to feed—find recharging an electric workhorse?

There have been anecdotal complaints from EV owners regarding the unreliable state of too many of the 40,000+ public charging stations and 100,000 outlets in the U.S., such as broken chargers and screens, wonky software, et cetera.

J.D. Power surveyed more than 11,500 EV and plug-in hybrid owners in its 2022 Electric Vehicle Experience Public Charging Study and concluded, despite “big growth” in the number of public chargers, EV owners felt the overall experience “still sucks.”

Most owners do their charging overnight while parked at home, the study concluded, but if EVs are to become a more attractive option to buyers, charging stations will need to be become “more pervasive and reliable, like gas stations.”

Farm Sanctuary found the EV truck could be charged three ways: by Level 1 charging at home (a standard 120-volt household outlet); Level 2 charging at public stations (208- to 240-volt—Level 2 can also be installed in households by an electrician, just like an extra dryer plug); and Level 3 DC Fast Charge and Supercharging (400- to 900-volt), currently only available at specialized public charging stations.

“We tried [Level 1] to show that you can take an extension cord from your house, add an adaptor that comes with the truck, and plug your truck in,” says Kokotajlo. At a recharge rate of about 3 to 5 miles an hour, this is the slowest method.

“But if you use this overnight, it can charge 24 to 40 miles in eight hours. That’s a perfect [option] if you’re not using the truck for long trips.”

Level 2 charging will become more accessible as the 10,000 Rivian Waypoint chargers proposed in the U.S. and Canada become available near hotels, parks and commercial centers. As should super-fast Level 3 stations, with charging rates of 3 to 20 miles per minute.

“It’s a little bit of a learning curve,” Kokotajlo says about the care and feeding of the EV workhorse, “but once you understand the differences, it felt intuitive. It was like plugging in your toaster.”

Comfort Zones

Feel is important in good horsemanship, and this EV wasn’t Kokotajlo’s first rodeo.

“I have personal experience driving EVs,” he says. The direct handling of the R1T was limited to the MotorTrend team. “[But] when we drove around the Sanctuary, the first thing I noticed was how silent it is. We had the windows down and I could hear the gravel crunch.

“There was a bit of a learning curve. It wasn’t so much the acceleration, which is fast and smooth, but the regenerative braking, which felt similar to downshifting, but not as ‘planned’ as driving with a stick. After learning what it does, it was nice to have the vehicle help with the braking while also capturing the energy.” In regenerative braking, every time you lighten your foot off the accelerator pedal, the car feels like it’s applying a light brake, and captures the energy to boost the battery’s charge.

He also found the dashboard intuitive.

“It felt like a large tablet. It was a bit weird, not seeing A/C buttons and dials but, after learning where everything was, it made sense. You can control everything from the screen.

“Another cool feature is that the truck can be updated. If there is software that changes how it handles regenerative braking to make it more efficient, you don’t have to go to a shop to activate it. You hook your EV to Wi-Fi and it updates itself. This is a cool concept as the truck can improve without you having to invest in new parts or technology.”

Ready to Saddle Up?

Prospects versus proven performers start with finding the right partner for the job. Is the EV ready to go to work in every equestrian facility? Maybe not yet, but Farm Sanctuary sees that the potential is out there.

“The truck itself is very high quality, which was noted in the finishes, the thoughtful features, and performance. For how Farm Sanctuary uses trucks, I think a Rivian EV would handle the workload.”

But despite a desire to advocate “full force” for the truck, Kokotajlo has reservations.

“I wish we could have tested some main concerns, the primary one being range when hauling. While not confirmed, I’ve heard there can be up to 50 percent reduction in range when hauling, depending on load and terrain. This might or might not be a dealbreaker for some folks. For shorter trips, this would be fine, but for larger or emergency trips, it would not.

“Lastly, for the price and what the truck can do, I’m uncertain on the ROI [return on investment]. But if a few things get ironed out, this truck will be a no-brainer purchase.”

Overall, the EV pickup truck is probably still a long yearling for most horse facilities, but in a few years, they’ll be finished performers.

Further Reading

◆ Choosing a Vehicle to Tow Your Horse Trailer
◆ Selecting a Horse Trailer to Fit Your Needs

This article about electric pickup trucks appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Electric Pickup Trucks: Can They Haul? appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.