Adjust to the Seat

When I bought my first western saddle, it felt substantial compared to a smaller English saddle. After years of training in a western saddle, my first piece of advice is to go ahead and sit down in it.

When riding English, I always sat properly on my seat bones, heels down, shoulders back, elbows by my sides, thumbs closed on the top of my reins, all with very tall posture. I had a light seat that was deep when needed, but I never sat in the back of the saddle to achieve that.

In western training, you will use most of the saddle, including the back part. To find a deep seat, take a deep breath and, on the exhale, roll your belly button toward the sky and sit on the pockets of your pants.

When you are riding western, you need to be able to use the saddle differently to encourage the horse to use his body correctly. Consider the back end of the horse as the engine. To make that engine move powerfully, you need to drive it with your seat. The change in my seat is always the first indication to the horse that a cue is coming.

Consider Your Leg Position

As you work toward more advanced maneuvers on your horse, it’s important to train your muscle memory correctly from the beginning. When sitting in an English saddle, you’re encouraged to drop your weight into your heels to maintain proper leg position.

But if you do that in a western saddle, your legs will always be tight on your horse’s sides, which you don’t want. You need to keep your legs relaxed and not really on the horse unless you mean it as a cue.

When sitting in a western saddle, your feet should be a bit more relaxed in the stirrups as well. Think about relaxing the weight of your body downward and through your heels. Keep the weight heavy in your heels, but don’t focus on pushing them down.

Stopping May Be Different

Another important point in the differences between the two riding disciplines is that your feet are going to play a part in stopping when riding western. When going into a stop, the first thing that is going to change is your seat. Melt down into your deep seat in the back of the saddle, pushing your feet slightly forward to anchor yourself, and then pick up on the reins to finalize the stop.

Stops on a western horse can be very dramatic, with the horse really dropping his haunches. By sitting deeply in the saddle and pressing your feet slightly forward, you are less likely to pop forward out of the tack.

A New Kind of Reins

One of the biggest differences when I changed from English to western was the way in which I used the reins. It also had a big impact on my core horse-training values, giving the horse the responsibility to do a maneuver with limited help from me. When I focused on that, I became a better educator for my horse.

When I rode English, there was always some form of contact on the bit, my fingers were always closed on the reins, and I was always ready to guide the horse through an exercise, whether he needed it or not.

This contrasts with my western horses, where I pick up the reins, make contact to give a cue, and then release the pressure and have the horse carry on doing what I have asked. My expectations are for the horse to take the responsibility of performing a maneuver with limited help from my reins.

My fingers are not always closed on the reins; often, the reins are held only lightly in my fingers. There are specific ways to ride one-handed, but most of my training is done with two hands on the reins.

My goal is to perform exercises on a loose rein, and this is achieved by using less and less rein pressure as the horse advances in his training. This requires me to use my seat and leg cues first, giving the horse a chance to respond before I go to rein cues.

Key Takeaway

Whether I ride in an English saddle or western saddle, I’m always conscious of my horsemanship and my job as an educator of the horse I’m riding. I pick the tack that best suits the job at hand, and I incorporate good horsemanship practices into my training.

It doesn’t matter if the horse is wearing an English or western saddle (or bareback)—the main goal no matter the riding discipline is to focus on being a better communicator and teacher for your horse.

This article about changing riding disciplines from English to western appeared in the March 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Changing Riding Disciplines: English to Western appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

When I was a kid, I loved trail riding and had a weekly English lesson. My mom handled most of the logistics—she bought my horse and saddle, took care of his farrier appointments, feeding, and even mucking stalls. I’d just show up for my lessons, load him up for trail rides, and hop in the truck. I never really thought about the “details” of horseback riding.

Now that I’m an adult and have the chance to write articles like this, I’m learning so much. First off, I learned that my mom spoiled me rotten! I also learned that I never took the time to dive into all the parts of a saddle. Sure, I knew the horn was for hanging on when things got a little wild, and the stirrups were where my feet went, but that was about it. The amazing thing about horses is that there’s always something new to learn.

At our local 4-H fair this year, the judge had the riders dismount and asked them trivia questions, including some about saddles. Only one of the 4-H kids could answer her questions. So, if you’re nearby and might encounter this judge in the future, keep reading—you’ll be all set for her.

I’m going to walk you through what I’ve learned about each part of the western saddle.

Saddle Horn

A saddle horn is a prominent feature on a western saddle, and it’s not just there for you to hang on to when your horse gets a little too spirited. There are various shapes and sizes of horns, each designed for specific uses. For instance, trail riding and reining saddles typically have large, round horns, while cutting and barrel racing saddles feature thinner, taller horns. Roping saddles have thick, wrapped horns that help maintain control over heavy livestock. On the other hand, English-style saddles, like dressage and hunt seat saddles, don’t have a horn at all. This is because English riding involves fewer sharp turns, so riders don’t need that extra grip for balance. Each style serves its purpose, reflecting the unique demands of the riding discipline.

Think About It: It’s always best to use a mounting block to reduce strain on a horse’s back. However, if you need to mount from the ground, make sure to position yourself alongside the horse, facing the saddle. Use your horse’s mane for support and avoid pulling on the saddle horn. This approach helps keep your saddle from slipping and ensures a smoother mounting process for both you and your horse.

Pommel/Swell/Fork

The pommel is the front part of the saddle, and its shape and size can vary depending on the saddle’s intended use. In a western saddle, the pommel helps prevent the rider from sliding forward. In contrast, English saddles typically feature a lower pommel, which offers a different riding experience suited to their style.

Gullet

The gullet is the space beneath the pommel, positioned just above the horse’s withers. The design of the pommel and the angle of the bars on the saddle tree determine the gullet’s height and shape. When shopping for a saddle, it’s crucial to use a gullet gauge to measure your horse and find the right size.

Think About It: Wearing a backpack with straps that are too tight or too loose while loaded with books would be uncomfortable. An ill-fitting saddle can lead to similar issues, potentially causing behavior problems in your horse. Always ensure your saddle fits properly. There are many helpful videos online that can guide you on measuring your horse and saddle, but the best approach is to consult a saddle fitter for expert advice.

Also Read: Western Saddle Fit Made Simple

Seat Rise

The seat rise is the raised portion of the seat located directly behind the pommel. This incline helps riders maintain proper position in the saddle, providing additional support and stability while riding. A well-designed seat rise can enhance comfort and aid in effective communication with your horse.

The Seat

The seat is the lowest part of the saddle where the rider sits. It’s a crucial component for comfort and balance while riding. If you ever find yourself in a saddle trivia situation, this is one question you’ll definitely want to get right!

Saddle Fitting Tip: When searching for a new saddle, it’s just as important to ensure it fits you well. Use an online saddle fitting calculator or consult with a saddle fitter to determine the appropriate length for your saddle. Once you have an idea, be sure to try out different options to find the one that feels most comfortable for you.

Cantle

The cantle is the back part of the saddle, and its height can vary based on the saddle’s intended use. For example, ranch and cutting saddles often feature a higher cantle to provide back support, helping to keep the rider securely in place during fast movements. In contrast, trail and show saddles typically have a lower cantle, allowing for more freedom of movement.

Skirt

The skirt is the material at the back of the saddle, behind the seat. It provides stability and helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight. Western saddles come in various skirt shapes and lengths, so it’s important to ensure the skirt fits your horse properly. Additionally, always use a saddle pad that complements the skirt for optimal comfort.

Front Cinch

The front cinch is the thicker strap that keeps the saddle securely in place. In English saddles, this is called a girth.

Saddle Fitting Tip: It’s essential to have the correct size cinch for your horse, as there are sensitive nerves along the belly and sides. You want to avoid any direct pressure from knots or buckles along these areas. Also, if you ride both western and English, keep in mind that the cinch and girth will be different lengths since they buckle at different places.

Front & Rear Rigging/D-Ring

These metal pieces are where your latigo and billet connect to the saddle, providing stability and support for the cinch.

Latigo

The latigo is the leather or nylon strap that connects the cinch to the saddle. You can tie it in a knot for security, or if it has holes, use it with the cinch’s buckle.

Strap Holder/Billet Keeper

After securing your latigo with a buckle or knot, pull the excess strap through the strap holder or billet keeper to keep it off the ground.

Back Cinch/Billet Strap

Some riders use a back cinch, while others don’t. It helps prevent the saddle from bouncing which protects the horse’s lower back. If you use a back cinch, there should be about an inch of space between it and the horse’s belly. You can also connect a cinch hobble between the front and back cinch to keep it secure and prevent it from sliding into the horse’s flank.

Fender

The fender is what you adjust to “change the length of your stirrups.” It connects the stirrup to the saddle and is wide enough to keep your legs from touching the horse’s sides.

Pro Tip: If you’re using a leather saddle, it’s a good idea to keep the leather conditioned to maintain the flexibility of the fenders. This can help improve your comfort while riding. Additionally, there are videos online that demonstrate alternative methods for twisting the leather straps in the back, which can help keep the fender turned outward and reduce pressure on your legs.

Stirrup

The stirrup is where you rest your feet, helping you mount your horse and providing stability while riding.

Saddle Fitting Tip: When it comes to stirrups, there are various sizes and shapes designed to complement different riding disciplines. It’s important to choose stirrups that properly fit your feet to ensure safety, comfort, and stability while riding. A good fit will enhance your overall riding experience and help you maintain better control.

Hobble Strap/Stirrup Strap

This strap, made of leather or nylon, wraps around the fender at the bottom to keep your stirrup in place.

Tie-Down Straps/Conchos

These straps at the back of the saddle can be used to tie up saddle bags or simply for decoration. The conchos are the silver pieces that the straps are connected to.

Breast Collar/Breastplate

While not technically part of the saddle, the breastplate fits around your horse’s chest and connects to the saddle. It helps prevent the saddle from sliding backward, especially when going uphill or jumping. This added stability is important for maintaining a secure fit while riding in more strenuous conditions.

Pro Tip: A neck strap helps keep the breast collar off the shoulder and provides an extra place to hang on to if your horse gets a little wild.

Whew, that’s a lot to take in! I’ve always found that using new vocabulary in everyday situations really helps me remember what those words mean. You don’t have to tackle it all at once—start slow. Pick three terms from this article that you didn’t know before, and when you saddle up your horse this week, say them out loud as you go.

If you don’t have a horse to saddle or just want some extra practice, here is a quiz you can try to test your knowledge of western saddle parts. See answers at the bottom of this page.

Parts of a Western Saddle Quiz

1. What is the primary purpose of the saddle horn in a western saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide grip during riding
c) To tie ropes
d) B and C

2. Which type of saddle typically features a lower pommel?

a) Western saddle
b) Dressage saddle
c) Roping saddle
d) Barrel racing saddle

3. What does the gullet refer to in a saddle?

a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
b) The back part of the saddle
c) The part where you rest your feet
d) The leather strap connecting the cinch

4. Why is it important to have the correct size front cinch?

a) To keep your stirrups in place
b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
c) To enhance the saddle’s appearance
d) All of the above

5. What is the role of the seat rise in a saddle?

a) To help with mounting
b) To provide back support
c) To maintain proper riding position
d) To hold the stirrups

6. Which part of the saddle helps reduce pressure on the horse’s back from the rider’s weight?

a) Cantle
b) Skirt
c) Gullet
d) Fender

7. What is the function of the latigo?

a) To connect the saddle to the stirrup
b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
c) To adjust the height of the cantle
d) To keep the saddle pad in place

8. How can a back cinch benefit the rider and horse?

a) It adds extra decoration
b) It provides a place to hang equipment
c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
d) It makes mounting easier

9. What is a common use for tie-down straps on a saddle?

a) To secure the saddle to the horse
b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
c) To connect the stirrups
d) To adjust the seat height

10. What is a breastplate’s primary function?

a) To make the saddle look nice
b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward
c) To provide additional storage
d) To help with dismounting

Answers:

1. d) All of the above
2. b) Dressage saddle
3. a) The area under the pommel above the horse’s withers
4. b) To prevent pressure on sensitive areas of the horse
5. c) To maintain proper riding position
6. b) Skirt
7. b) To secure the cinch to the saddle
8. c) It helps keep the saddle from bouncing
9. b) To tie up saddle bags or for decoration
10. b) To prevent the saddle from sliding backward

This article about parts of a western saddle is a web exclusive for Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post The Complete Guide to Parts of a Western Saddle — Plus a Quiz appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Saddle fit doesn’t have to be stressful. To make sure that a western saddle fits your horse well, keep in mind that you want it to make as much contact as possible around the horse’s back so that it can distribute weight well.

Darrell Nephew’s mission is to help horse owners find saddles that fit well without endless research and worry. He began crafting saddles in the 1980s, and is now executive vice president of Circle Y Saddles. He apprenticed with Tucker Saddles founder Steve Tucker and built over 1,000 saddles before taking the helm at a company dedicated to saddle fit.

Nephew acknowledges that some horses are trickier to fit than others, but he says most horses can easily fit into the common tree-type categories.

“The No. 1 reason people have saddle fit problems is they overthink it,” Nephew says. “It’s easy to worry about your horse and worry that you’re inadvertently doing something to hurt him. But saddle fit doesn’t have to be hard.”

The first step to making sure your horse is comfortable is taking the time to learn about fit. Here, Nephew guides you through the process so that you can ensure your western saddle fits—or find a saddle that does.

Share Your Story with a Saddle Fitter

If you’re looking for a new saddle or want to make sure yours fits well, Nephew suggests starting with your story. Talk to a saddle fitter or local dealer and tell them about your horse.

“Most horses can fit into a ‘normal’ saddle type, and saddle fitters know which horses usually fit the categories,” he says. “It’s a good place to start. Instead of going in and giving lots of measurements, tell them about your horse. I would say that I have a 15-year-old horse that’s starting to lose a little bit of his back. He’s a bit wide. I ride about 10 hours a week. With that info, the fitter can pull a few saddles for you to put on your horse and try.”

When he’s helping horse owners find saddles, Nephew says he first asks if the rider is currently noticing a problem with the fit. If so, he wants to know what you’re noticing.

Let the fitter know if your horse has white spots on his haircoat (a sign of a saddle that applied too much pressure to specific spots over a long time). Sometimes, white spots may be from a poor fitting saddle many years before.

Also report if you have noticed dry spots under your saddle pad when the rest of the back is wet with sweat. That’s a sign that the horse’s back may need some extra padding to fill in where a saddle is bridging (not touching all points along the bars). Sometimes finding the right pad or using a shim pad can help your western saddle fit well. Keep in mind, however, that padding a saddle that’s too narrow will just add pressure to your horse and make him feel worse.

Next, Nephew asks what tree type you’re using or the horse last had. If your horse fit well in a certain width of tree in the past, that’s a good starting point.

Then he asks, “Is your horse pretty normal?” While “normal” is a subjective term on its own, Nephew uses it here to refer to typical conformation. If the horse is fairly symmetrical, has an average wither, and has a fairly level back, he will most likely fit in a saddle made to fit the majority of horses.

There are always exceptions, of course, and some horses may require some padding or aid to fit well in a “normal” saddle, but a custom tree is rarely needed.

“Normal” Trees

The saddle’s tree is the strong material, usually wood, that holds the saddle together. On the horse, the tree’s bars make contact with the horse’s back. They’re angled to comfortably sit along the horse’s topline so they can distribute your weight evenly onto your horse’s back. The fit of the saddle, for the horse, comes down to the tree and the bars.

For most western saddles, trees fall into two common types: semi-quarter horse bars or quarter horse bars. Semi-quarter horse bars, also known as “regular,” describe trees designed for horses with a defined wither and a refined build.

Quarter Horse bars, also known as “wide,” usually fit stocky horses with round or flat backs. You may also see gaited and draft horse-specific fits. Keep in mind that the horse’s height doesn’t impact the needed tree type—it’s all about fitting the shape that runs the 9 inches behind the horse’s withers.

These categories are helpful as a starting place as you choose which tree types will fit your horse. However, there is no industry standard for how different companies name the bar angles. For each saddle you look at, you’ll need to make sure it fits on your horse.

Nephew says that all the saddle companies strive to make a saddle that helps horses.

“They’re all trying to fit a ‘normal’ horse,” he says. “But every company has a different idea of what normal is. I equate it to shopping for a man’s shirt. Lots of different shirt companies want to fit a man with a certain build. If I’m shopping for a medium shirt, some brands of shirts might be tighter or looser, but overall they fit a medium build. Saddles are the same way. The tree types are trying to fit the most common horses.”

Gullet Guide

Nephew says many horse owners worry about the gullet more than necessary. The gullet is the opening between the bars of the saddle, but it doesn’t determine the bar angles or width of the tree.

“If you’re trying to measure the gullet on a finished saddle, it’s very difficult,” Nephew says. “You just want to make sure the withers have clearance, even when there’s weight in the saddle. Whether there’s 6 inches of clearance or 2 inches of clearance doesn’t matter for most riders. It’s more important to put the saddle on the horse and see how the bars make contact.”

Saddle Fit Concerns

Nephew says it’s never bad to get your horse measured by a saddle fitter. However, he likes to place saddles on the horse to check the fit instead of purely relying on measurements.

If you have noticed a change in your horse’s back because of his age, exercise levels or diet, it may be good to have him measured. Horses’ backs can change when their fitness changes. You’ll also want to know if your horse is short-coupled (has a short back) and may need a saddle that is also short so that it doesn’t sit far onto his hips.

It’s a good idea to look at your saddle and feel where the bars are contacting your horse’s sides at the start and middle of your riding season so you can see if any changes occur.

Try It Out

Start by trying the saddle on your horse without a pad. Nephew advises learning what to see. A level saddle that doesn’t make contact at the withers is a good place to start as you train your eye.

“Saddle fitting is really just being visual and using your touch,” Nephew says. “The first thing I’m looking for is to make sure the saddle makes good contact where the bar is. I’ll take my hand and feel under the saddle close to the horse’s wither. I’m looking there to see if I make some contact from top to bottom of the bar. If you have to guess, then it’s probably making contact. It’s really obvious when it’s not—you can put your hand under the saddle too easily.”

Nephew says after he feels the saddle’s bars, he steps back and looks at the length of the saddle compared to the horse’s back. He wants to make sure that the saddle is level and that it doesn’t look like it’s making contact only at the front and back.

If the saddle is too narrow for the horse, it will sit high on the horse’s back with a “perched” look. Nephew says you can see this easily by looking at the front of the saddle. If you can see 4 to 5 inches of fleece under the gullet, that’s too much, and the saddle isn’t sitting down far enough. This will make the horse feel pinched and will cause the bars to dig into the horse’s back.

If the saddle is too wide for the horse, the gullet may be too close to the withers and the bars won’t touch the horse’s sides. This can also cause the saddle to pinch because specific points touch the horse, but the bars don’t even touch the horse’s back.

Nephew advises trying out a few different saddles after you tell a fitter or dealer about your horse.

“The fitter can give you a good place to start, and you can see what looks and feels best on your horse. Make sure you can try a saddle for a few days so that you can ride and see what happens with the saddle in motion. The burden of finding the best fit is always with the horse owner—you’re the one who knows your horse best and knows how he feels to ride.”

Further Reading:
◆ Everything You Need to Know About Saddle Fitting
◆ Get the Right Western Saddle Fit
◆ 5 Tips for Western Saddle Fit

This article about western saddle fit appeared in the September 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Western Saddle Fit Made Simple appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The spin is the maneuver specific to reining. The stylized movement shows your horse’s willingness to move on cue with speed and agility. It’s also the move most associated with riders’ concerns. Will I stop on time? Will I get too dizzy? Will I lose count?

Trainer Cody Crow rides reining patterns in working cow horse competitions. There, one of the requirements is to perform a reining pattern before calling for a cow. When in a reining class, you’ll be asked to do four or four-and-a-quarter turns in one direction.

In a reined cow horse competition, you’ll need to do two-and-a-half to three-and-a-half spins. Whether you’re preparing for a reining event or working cow horse, the move is the same.

Crow describes how he prepares for turnarounds (also called spins) in a reining show.

“I let my horse get settled, I take a breath, make sure my horse’s head and neck are straight, then I’ll open my inside leg, look in the direction of the spin and lay my rein on the horse’s neck. That starts the spin and my count. I count out loud as I go, saying the number as soon as I start that revolution.”

With practice and patience, the spin can look smooth and effortless. But that doesn’t mean it starts off that way for every rider.

“A lot of riders panic when they get to the spin,” says Crow. “They run down and think that the horse immediately has to step into the spin. Instead, let your horse settle. Count to five and allow your horse to pause, then spin on your cue. The judge will appreciate that your horse is relaxed and settled. That sets the tone and builds eye appeal before you even start the maneuver.”

Perfect Start

Crow suggests breathing and taking your time.

“Many riders forget that horses have to have time to get balanced. You have to be patient and allow your horse to transition from standing straight and square to rocking back and moving his shoulders laterally in the spin. He has to have a few steps to figure out where his feet are before maintaining a consistent turnaround with some speed.”

Once you stop your horse from the previous maneuver and allow him to stand still, it’s time to find your landmark to help you count your rotations. You’ll pick a spot to look at so you know where to ask your horse to stop at the end of the spins. The spot you’ll choose to look at depends on your horse and how you learn to practice at home.

Start the spin by squaring your shoulders and facing the same direction as your horse. Make sure his head and neck are in a straight line, and take time to correct his nose if needed by picking up and directing his nose.

Then your horse should keep spinning once cued and until you tell him to whoa.

“When I’m ready to turn, I move my chin and rotate my shoulders just slightly into the turn,” says Crow. “Then I rotate my shoulders slightly in the direction of the turn, which also rotates my pelvis. That helps my inside leg open and closes my outside leg and thigh against the horse. I will point my inside toe toward the direction we’re going. That reminds me to open up my leg.”

Count it Out

Counting your spins is crucial to knowing when to stop. The “shut-off,” as Crow calls it, is important because you don’t want a penalty.

“If you over- or under-spin by a quarter, it’s a one-point deduction,” he says. “If you spin much more than is requested, it’s considered being off pattern. You don’t want to lose out because you haven’t practiced counting or planned how to stop.”

Crow says some riders have different counting methods, but his pattern is consistent and helps him keep his spot—even if the horse falters.

“I start by counting out loud as soon as I start spinning,” he says. “Then as I finish that first revolution, I say ‘two’ and continue counting out loud. Only when I finish that revolution will I say the next number. Some riders will count the revolution then say the number, but if your horse sidesteps or stumbles, it’s easy to lose count. If you have the number three in your mind, you may forget if you are on three or just finished three. However you choose to count, keep it consistent.”

Once the horse is moving, he should maintain the speed you request and keep going steadily through all the spins. If a judge sees a horse start slowly, build up, then slow down and anticipate a stop, that spin won’t score well.

The Finish

Crow says every horse has a little different timing in the shut-off.

“When I’ve finished my four revolutions but need to do another quarter, I say whoa and pick my hand straight up. In that time, the horse will take another quarter-turn step. I shut off my horse at the four mark, and by the time he can actually stop, he is at the four-and-a-quarter mark—just as we want. As I finish the fourth spin, I know I need to look at the center marker of the arena. I make sure to look up at the marker I need. I look in the direction of the spin, but up above the horse so I’m not looking at the ground. If I look at the ground, I’ll get dizzy.”

When it comes to knowing where to stop, Crow says some horses will stop their spin as soon as you pick up your hand. Other horses will need a few steps to stop completely. You’ll need to practice this at home to find out where your horse needs to get the cue so that he’ll consistently shut off at the point where you need it.

“When I ask a horse to stop, I move my legs off and lift my reining hand up and say ‘whoa,’” says Crow. “If I have a horse that is a little sloppy, I will say ‘whoa,’ then may use my inside leg to support that horse in the stop.”

Reining Spin Practice Tips

Crow says that most horses don’t get dizzy after turning just four times. He has found that horses get dizzy if you practice too many spins in one direction during practice at home. How do you avoid this? Don’t require your horses to spin his best during every practice. Keep your horse relaxed.

Crow recommends practicing at home with half the speed your horse could go. You’ll keep your horse turning on your cue and keep a consistent pace until the cue to stop. If you don’t cluck or kiss to your horse to ask for more speed, he should just go in a nice slow speed.

When it’s closer to a show and you want to practice just as you’ll perform at a show, kiss or cluck and ask for the show speed. Remember, once you cue your horse to spin, he should stay in the turnaround until you tell him to whoa.

When working with students, Crow has his riders practice their cues, then work on the horse’s performance.

“I want to know that the rider can count correctly and get the correct number of spins for the show. Once I know that the rider is trained, I also want to make sure the horse is ready and doesn’t learn to anticipate. I’ll mix up the number of spins we do. I don’t want my riders to constantly spin four times. I don’t want the horses to anticipate and shut off at four. Instead, I like riders to practice spinning six revolutions. That’s just enough to not get dizzy while keeping them from anticipating and learning to stop the spin too soon.”

The post Master Your Reining Spins appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Like horse shows in general, halter classes can range from small-scale classes at low-level shows, where multiple breeds of a certain type may show against in each other in a catch-all class like “English Type” or “Western Type,” to breed-specific classes at larger shows. So what exactly is the judge looking for in a halter class? In general, good basic conformation—overall balance, correct legs, strong hindquarters, et cetera—and movement. In breed-specific situations, the judge is comparing your horse to the breed association’s official breed type description; in some cases very minute details (size of the eyes, for example) will be considered.

Many halter classes can be broken into two phases. One is the inspection phase, in which the judge examines one horse at a time and analyzes conformation and type while checking for any disqualifications. Each horse is also judged at the walk and trot in order for the judge to evaluate movement and way of going. The second phase involves returning to the “line up,” where each horse and handler wait while the other competitors are inspected.

Different horse shows and classes will have different pattern requirements for halter classes. Some might want you to walk in for inspection and then trot away, some might require that all competitors come in trotting and then line up along the rail before inspection. Read and understand any posted patterns, watch any classes that are before yours, and listen carefully to instructions from the ringmaster or announcer.

Learn the specifics on how to show your breed or type. Some breeds, like Arabians, for instance, are shown in breed-specific tack and are positioned in a special way when standing in the ring. Some breeds are expected to be groomed differently than others (braiding, etc…) Find out what’s typical for your horse’s breed. Also, find out what you are expected to wear—it too can vary from breed to breed.

Like all horse show classes, grooming is important, but it is particularly important for halter. While the judge isn’t necessarily “judging” your horse’s grooming, if all things are equal and two horses are both excellent examples, the one with the better grooming job just might edge out the other. Give yourself enough time before the class to bathe, groom, polish hooves, braid, or whatever is required.

Remember, you and your horse are being judged during the entire halter class! Don’t stop showing just because you’re in the lineup of a very large class and other horses are being inspected.

Do you enjoy showing your horse in halter classes? Do you at compete at breed shows, or open shows? Let us know in the comments below.

This article about showing horses in halter classes originally appeared in Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post How to Show in Halter Classes appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here, trainer Cody Crow helps you understand how horses learn that they can break gait if they choose—and why riders fall into the trap of constant pedaling. He’ll help you teach your horse to lope and keep loping until another cue is given. He also provides tips to help you sit back and drive your horse into the lope.

No Nagging

“If you constantly nag a child about cleaning their room but there’s no follow-through or consequence, they’ll soon learn they don’t have to clean their room,” says Crow. “It’s the same way for the horse. If you kiss to the horse and he doesn’t step into and stay in the lope, there must be a follow-through. If there isn’t a follow-through, you’re effectively training your horse to ignore you. He’ll take you up on the chance to ignore you if allowed. The horse may break down into the trot or just get hollow. Most horses will only work as hard as you ask them to. Make sure you’re following up.”

In the show pen, the judge wants to see a horse that is willingly guided. The horse should step into a transition with fluidity and a willing demeanor. Crow says that your horse’s willingness to lope freely will affect your performance scores for several transitions and maneuvers.

“If you see a rider who’s having to beg the horse to go forward, it’s not a very pretty picture,” Crow says. “Maybe a judge won’t minus all of the maneuvers, but he certainly isn’t going to plus the maneuvers. If a rider is having a discussion with the horse about just staying in the lope, there’s no chance she could have shown an extended lope. Then she won’t be able to show a transition to a collected lope. Also, if you’re begging your horse to stay in the lope, he can’t have the balance to show a good transition from the lope to the trot.”

Making the Change

“Horses that need to be pedaled all the time may never have been taught to move forward freely,” says Crow. “Horses can get dull and lazy when the rider allows that behavior. If a rider is timid or isn’t clear with the horse, it’s easy for him to just stop.”

Crow says he helps horses break the pedaling cycle by showing them that they can move out freely. He’ll ask the horse to lope and boost the speed to show the horse he can move out and will be expected to move at the speed requested.

First, Crow teaches the horse that there will be an audible cue before any follow through or consequence. He makes a kissing sound to ask for the lope, then uses his leg pressure to reinforce the sound. Once he’s loping, he kisses again to ask for more speed.

“The sound will be followed by my leg cues—with a little more outside leg cue to keep the horse moving forward,” he says. “When the horse learns a verbal cue before the leg cue, he learns that he needs to move on. The verbal cue was the ask, and the leg cue was the tell. If the horse still doesn’t respond, I’ll bump with my leg, but I won’t continue to bump. If I were to constantly bump, I’d desensitize the horse to my leg.”

If a horse has been ridden with constant leg cues, Crow suggests the rider carry a short crop.

“I teach riders to use a verbal cue first, then their legs, then a tap on the hindquarters (at the hip) will be a new cue that the horse isn’t desensitized to,” says Crow. “We aren’t talking about hitting the horse hard at all, just providing a new feeling and something the horse isn’t desensitized to. Usually it only takes one or two taps for the horse to understand that he should move off of the kiss sound and not wait for other aids.”

Loping Position

If you have to canter, push, canter, push on a horse to prevent him from breaking gait, you may have developed a habit you’ll need to break.

Crow says to make sure you’re sitting on your hips and using your legs. If you’ve become accustomed to begging the horse to go, you may have learned to lean forward to encourage him. This position actually moves your legs away from the horse. You don’t have the ability to use your leg aids as well as if you can sit back, drive and push the horse forward from your seat. Think of driving instead of leaning forward and taking the horse with you.

Riding a different horse can help you feel what you were doing and allow you to sit up and change your posture.

“Sometimes it’s helpful to get on a horse that will keep the lope so you can feel what it’s like to just ride,” advises Crow. “Many times, riders who have learned to bump every stride will lean forward so their legs aren’t in the place to drive. It’s important to learn to sit back and allow your legs to open and drive the horse with a long, relaxed leg.”

This article about breaking gait at the lope appeared in the March 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Here to help tamp down your horse’s jig, American Paint Horse Association and American Quarter Horse Association Professional Sandy Jirkovsky shares her advice.

Why Does My Horse Get Antsy?

There are several reasons why horses don’t settle while working a pattern and get antsy, and some of them are rider-related.

Rider tension: “If a horse can feel a fly on their skin, they can feel you tensing up,” says Jirkovsky. “Whether you tense up through your seat, through your legs, or even in your mind, they feel that, and the first thing they go back to is their natural instinct of flight because they feel apprehension on their back.”

Over-practicing: Repetition is helpful for riders wanting to learn their pattern, but it’s not so good for a broke horse, says Jirkovsky. Completing entire patterns during practice can backfire when you go show.

“The horse learns the pattern faster than you do, and he’s going to anticipate,” she says.

Too fresh: Just like children in school, a horse with too much energy is not going to be able to focus on what you’re asking of him, according to Jirkovsky.

How to Handle It

Get mentally prepared: Jirkovsky suggests checking your mind and body for any tension.

“Make sure that you’re relaxed, taking deep breaths, thinking about what you’re going to do, and not transferring negative energy over to your horse,” she says.

Consider working with a friend or a trainer or having someone videotape your performance to see if you’re tensing up while riding, Jirkovsky advises.

Practice pieces: Choose maneuvers or portions of your pattern to practice. To learn your pattern as a whole, Jirkovsky suggests walking it on foot or even using another horse.

“We’ll practice maneuvers in a different order and make sure we have them all down,” she says.

School a Class Correctly

Jirkovsky says you can’t ride every class like you want to win first place. Working on sticky spots with your horse, even at the expense of a placing due to using two hands or breaking pattern, can make way for more successful performances in the future if you do it right.

“Sometimes you have to go to a smaller or open show to school and correct those issues, so that when you go to a show that counts, they’ve been fixed,” she says. “You’ll see many of the top trainers school through their patterns at a show, not being rough, but just keeping the horse focused on them.”

Avoid scaring your horse while schooling, Jirkovsky stresses.

“There’s two types of schooling,” she says. “There is good schooling, which is educational for the horse, and there is schooling to punish the horse. All that does is build apprehension for the next time he goes into the pen. Your schooling has to be proper and patient refocusing and redirecting, otherwise you’re just going to add to your problem.”

Don’t punish: Even if your horse acts up on the pattern, don’t discipline him—instead, recapture his focus.

“The worst thing you can do is punish your horse when he gets upset,” Jirkovsky says. “You just have to redirect his attention.”

Prevention Anticipation in Pattern Classes

Take a walk: Many riders skip walking in favor of other gaits and maneuvers. But Jirkovsky says the slowest gait is key to encouraging a calm and focused performance.

“Walking is a great patience builder, and seems to be a lost art,” she says.

Take some time to warm up, asking your horse to softly bend, flex and respond to your cues before moving on to pattern work.

Cross-train: Working your horse in other disciplines can help his mindset toward your chosen class, Jirkovsky says.

“Take a horse that you always do reining on and go do ranch riding with him,” she says. “Take your horsemanship horse into a trail course and let him refocus a bit on the poles. Adding different classes instead of just that same class where he tends to get upset can help.”

Make the cone a happy place: Jirkovsky leaves cones out in the arena at home and does pattern maneuvers away from the cones, leaving the marker as a resting spot.

“After working our horses around the arena, if we’re going to stand and talk for a while, we’ll do it at the cone,” she says. “The horses really anticipate, and once they see a cone, they think they’re going to have to do something. But we make the cone their resting place.”

For a showmanship horse, Jirkovsky will leave a bucket of grain at each cone, which encourages the horse to have his ears forward, looking forward to being at the cone.

Start with focus: Before you start your pattern, cue your horse with your legs to encourage him to take a breath and focus. This is a move you teach your horse at home after working hard, so do the same thing when you’re about to compete to remind him.

“I’ll roll my legs on the horse’s sides as support, and he’ll lower his head and take a breath,” Jirkovsky says. “At home, I’ll reward him and rub his neck and let him relax as a reward.”

This article about how to avoid an antsy horse and anticipation in a pattern class appeared in the January/February 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Antsy Horse? Here’s How to Avoid Anticipation in Pattern Classes appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Here, trainer Aaron Ralston demonstrates how the western stop is differs with and without cattle present. Ralston says the same horse can stop well in a reining class and learn how to stop a cow.

“The best cow horse must be as broke as the best reining horse and as connected to a cow as the best cutting horse,” he says. “Then responsibility falls to the rider. If you use your reins and leg, it must be in time with the objective of the cow.”

The horse must be tuned into the rider for the reining stop cue and tuned into the cow for great cow horse stops.

“For the reining stop, you need to have a great stop, then change directions,” he says. “When you’re working cows, the cattle shift right and left, and you’re always reacting.”

Stopping Time

No matter what type of class you’re preparing for, Ralston recommends keeping your cues consistent. When you visualize how to move your hands to rein for the stops, keep in mind the clock image from part 1 of this series.

With the clock face over your horse’s body—and 12 o’clock at his ears—you’ll move your hands toward 6 o’clock to cue for a stop. You’ll then return your hand to the middle of the clock to allow your horse to move his neck freely without a tight rein.

The Reining Stop

For the perfect reining stop, the horse’s back should hunch into the stop while his hind hooves reach toward the front hooves. The horse’s front legs should move freely as the horse skates into the stop.

The horse’s neck naturally telescopes out and down to counterbalance his weight going down in the back. There will be a nice arc from the nose to the hind end. Ralston warns that you don’t want a lot of rein or bit contact—little to none.

To put this scene into action, Ralston says he approaches the stop with gradually building speed. As the horse runs down to the stop, his body position naturally changes, and his shoulders move back with the motion.

When you’re ready to stop, make sure not to force your shoulders back. Instead, the way the horse moves should send your shoulders back—just like a jet taking off propels passengers back into their seats. This relaxed, natural back position means that the horse is moving his shoulders freely without weight tipping forward onto his front legs.

When it’s time to ask for the stop, say “whoa,” press the balls of your feet into your stirrups, drive your heels, then lift your hand for light contact. As you sit the stop, point your belt buckle to the sky and keep your chin up.

The reining stop was developed for the arena-performance class. Reining crowds cheer the loudest when horses glide over a long distance. This stop isn’t used to work on the ranch. However, the horse’s free movement and willingness to change speeds on command are always essential.

Cow Horse Stop

For a cow horse stop, the horse’s front end doesn’t pedal to balance the hindquarters’ sliding. Instead, the horse’s front legs move more abruptly to allow him to change directions when the cow turns.

“If the cow and horse move down the fence then stop at the same time, the horse would keep moving down the fence while the cow changed directions and got away,” Ralston says. “The reining stop with sliders is not practical for working cows.”

Ralston says that for a well-trained horse, the easiest way to change from a reining stop to the stop needed for cattle work is to change the shoes. Ralston chooses back shoes for cattle work that allow the horse to move through the footing with his hind hooves but that have more friction than those that allow for a sliding stop.

To stop for a cow horse class, position your body just as when stopping in a reining class. While the horse will move differently, your position remains the same. As you move with the cow down the fence, you want your shoulder, hip, and heel to align.

The trained horse will speed to take you to the spot that will stop the cow. The momentum of the horse should naturally move your shoulders behind your hips. With your shoulders back, you’ll be balanced for the stop.

Note that in either stop, your body position should be relaxed with your shoulders back. If you lean forward on a cow turn, you can get thrown forward while the horse tries to change direction. In that case, the horse has all your weight on his front end—making his job difficult. Instead, keep your shoulders slightly back to be ready for any western stop.

This article appeared in the November/December 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Read the first installment of this series, demonstrating the difference in turns between reining and cow horse classes.

The post The Difference in Reining and Cow Horse Stops appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

To compete in reining or working cow horse competitions, your horse will need to turn quickly in response to your cues. In reining, the move is a “turnaround,” or spin—the horse moves forward around a pivot foot and continues the move until directed to stop.

For cow horse classes, your horse will also need to turn with precision. However, he’ll turn with his weight shifted back so he can move on to follow the cow in any new direction.

Trainer Aaron Ralston explains that all moves for reining or working cow horse events mirror—or were inspired by—horses on cattle ranches.

“Historically, riders wanted to show off their best-trained, most obedient horses,” he says. “While there’s little structure to working cattle in a natural environment, training your horse to do complex maneuvers shows skill and athleticism. The reining turnaround became that signature move that could be judged on a point system. Then when working cattle, your horse needs to be ready to turn sharply in any direction and to change directions often.”

A reining turn forces the horse’s weight to the inside.

“If the horse needed to stop and change directions quickly, he’d have to take a shuffle step before being able to leave in a new direction,” Ralston continues. “The ‘cow turn’ allows him to shift his weight back so that he can change directions without shuffling or regaining balance.”

Use the Clock

Horses should turn precisely—no matter which type of turn is requested. Ralston says he’s often asked about how to cue for the different turns needed in reining and cow horse events.

To explain how to cue for each turn, he teaches riders to envision a clock face over the top of the horse. Everything straight in front of you and the horse’s poll is 12 o’clock. Straight behind you toward the tail is 6 o’clock. Three and 9 o’clock are positioned at your right and left legs. Knowing these positions will help you know where to move your feet, rein and chin positions to cue for the different turns.

Reining Turns

In reining, you want forward motion into the turn. The outside foot is to cross over the inside front foot. The inside hind leg is the predominant pivot foot that bears most of the weight. The outside hind foot helps the horse balance and propels him around.

When being judged, the inside hind foot can move within a small area, but you don’t want that leg to displace into a new area. If the foot stays in the same area throughout the turn, you won’t incur a deduction.

The inside hind hoof moves underneath the center of the horse, right below the rider. That’s the pivot point. The more the horse contracts together over the pivot point, the faster he can move.

Imagine a figure skater who spins faster when pulling her arms into her center. The horse will also spin most quickly when his body is tucked and his pivot hoof reaches far under his body.

When you’re ready to start the reining turn to the right, you want your horse’s inside front hoof to step to 3 o’clock continuously to produce the balance point for the optimum turn. To achieve this, use three body cues: Move your inside foot off the horse and point it to 3 o’clock while your outside leg supports the horse without constant cueing.

Lastly, move your chin to 3 o’clock. When you move your chin, other body cues (including your shoulders and hips) naturally follow. Riding one-handed, move your hand above the saddle horn and toward 3 o’clock.

“I like to sit very neutrally with my shoulder, hip and heel alignment in place,” Ralston says. “The cues with the three body parts will tell the horse the destination I expect.”

Ralston says he makes sure to cue the horse once and expect perpetual motion. He doesn’t want to constantly kick the horse, but to teach the horse to keep going until he cues for something different.

If the horse needs encouragement, he will use his outside leg until the horse returns to the speed he wants. He says that if he always pushes with his outside leg, he finds that horses hunt for a change in leg pressure so that they can be done.

“If I’m always pushing with my outside leg, then he’s thinking, ‘When does that outside leg come off, when do I get to quit?’” Ralston says. “That creates a horse that takes smaller steps and is waiting to be done.”

When it’s time to stop the turn, take both legs off the horse and shift your weight to your legs. Return your reining hand to the middle of the horse’s neck and say “whoa.”

Working Cow Horse Turns

“A horse needs to be able to turn in any manner necessary that affects a cow’s flight zone in relation to the destination you want the cow to go,” Ralston says. “Typically, you won’t be making a cow go somewhere. Instead, you shut the door on all the options and open the door to the direction you’d like her to go. It’s pressure and release. The cow releases herself from the pressure the horse puts on and goes where she feels free.”

Ralston says if a cow goes somewhere, she’s going to look there before she takes a step. If you want a cow to go straight ahead but she looks to the right, you need to be able to get to the right side of the cow’s vision to block that move.

If a cow is looking at you and wanting to move toward you, you won’t want to do a reining turn. That type of turn with a forward swing would get into the cow’s flight zone and chase her around you. Instead, you’ll turn the hands of the clock past 3 o’clock, shifting your horse’s weight back.

To initiate the cow turn, move your foot, chin, and hands to 5 o’clock. When the horse’s front hoof turns to that increased turn directive, he has to shift his weight backward. The inside hind foot becomes the pivot foot. With the horse’s weight shifted back, you’ll be ready to go wherever you need to work the cow. The horse will be ready to drive off or turn.

“You could compare this movement in the horse to an athlete,” Ralston says. “Think of a basketball player or volleyball player with a wide stance, ready to move in any direction at any moment, depending on where the ball goes. In this position, you’re always ready.”

Will you ever use a reining turn while working a cow? Ralston says he uses the initial cue of the turn (without the constant spinning) when he wants to send a cow away from him in a defensive move. Once the cow is moving away, he’ll most likely cue the cow turn in the next move.

This article about turns in reining and working cow horse events appeared in the October 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Perfect Your Reining and Working Cow Horse Turns appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Crossing water is one of those things that’s either fun to do with your horse, or it’s exasperating—there doesn’t seem to be much middle ground. However, if a horse is trained to cross water willingly, it’s easy and very useful.

To teach your horse to cross water, pick a water crossing that isn’t too deep so that you don’t get into trouble. Generally, the narrower the water crossing, the easier it is to get the horse to the other side. However, the narrower the crossing, the more likely the horse is to try to jump it instead of going through it. An area without heavy mud is better because if the horse feels his front feet sinking in the mud before he even gets to the water, you’re going to have more trouble getting through.

First Steps to Crossing Water

Ideally, you’ll want to start introducing your horse to water crossing by following a rider on a more experienced horse through the water the first few times. In some situations you won’t have another person to help you, however, so we’ll treat this as if you’re by yourself.

Start by riding your horse back and forth beside the water a few times. This lets him see the water, and turning back and forth also lets him know that you’re the one calling the shots. Occasionally when a horse gets near water, he will get nervous and stop listening to you. The more your horse does this, the more you should turn back and forth before attempting to cross the water.

NOTE: When turning your horse back and forth, always turn toward the water. I never turn away, because if my horse is nervous, he might bolt away once he’s facing away from the water. Also, for the purpose of this exercise, I don’t want him thinking that turning away from the water is an option.

Approaching the Water

Once your horse is listening well, it’s time to approach the water. Pick the spot where you’re going to cross. You must be very specific here. Don’t attempt to just cross the water wherever—you want to cross at that one specific spot. If you’re too vague, your horse might take advantage of your indecision and go near the water but not through it.

It is now your job to keep your horse’s nose pointed at that spot no matter what he does. If he spooks, bolts, backs up, et cetera, you still need to keep his nose pointed at the spot you want to cross. If you can do that, eventually the rest of the horse is going to follow his nose. Approach the spot straight on; don’t come in on an angle, or it will be too easy for him to veer off to the side.

Walk your horse toward the water; chances are he will get close and then stop. When he stops, just sit there and let him look. Take all pressure off him and pet him if you can. If you let him stand for a minute, this will let your horse know that this spot is a good place to be.

This is important, because if your horse starts to really resist going into the water and you end up in an argument, it’s easy to find yourself farther away from the water than where you started. If you let him have this one rest spot, at least you will be able to get back to it and start over from there.

Now that he’s standing and looking at the water, chances are he will start moving again after a few moments. If he moves toward the water, allow him to go. If he tries to move to one side or the other, keep his nose pointed at the spot and then use your legs to keep him straight.

If your horse backs up, squeeze very lightly with your legs. Eventually he’s going to stop, and the moment he takes a step forward, release the leg pressure. If he takes 20 steps backward and only one step forward, I’m still happy.

Keep working at this. Most horses that don’t want to cross water will give three or four good attempts to get away by turning to the right and left and by backing up. If you stay with this and remain calm while keeping your horse’s nose pointed straight at your designated crossing spot, your horse is going to start to see that there is no escape.

Once he realizes this, usually he’ll take a few steps closer to the water. Be sure to let him stand and relax when he does this. The biggest mistake you can make is to start squeezing and kicking when your horse starts moving forward. He’s already doing the right thing by moving ahead, so don’t ask for too much.

Investigating the Water

Eventually your horse is going to get right up to the water. Chances are high that he’ll now start pawing at the water and put his nose down to investigate. Allow him do this, because even though he’s not crossing the water, he’s interested enough to be investigating it instead of running away from it.

It might take two minutes and it might take 20, but if you keep up with this, eventually he’s going to cross the water. How long it takes depends on how quickly he understands that moving forward is the only option.

Be aware that your horse might jump a narrow crossing, so you might have to grab the horn or some mane if that happens. When horses cross for the first time, some will cross at a snail’s pace. However, most will rush through once they get partway in. Just let your horse rush out and then walk some big circles once you reach the other side. Keep doing that until he is calm and relaxed.

Cementing Success in Crossing Water

Once your horse has settled, I recommend crossing back and forth several times. You’ve done the hardest part, so repeat it until your horse is doing it easily so you won’t have to start at square one another day.

Once you’ve crossed a few times, ask him to go through without letting him stop or put his head down to investigate and think about it. You now want him crossing the water as if he’s expected to, not like he has to decide whether it’s a good idea each time.

If you have a horse that keeps on jumping water instead of going through it, you there are a couple of things you can try. One is to keep crossing back and forth until your horse becomes a bit tired. At this point, most horses start to slow down and think about the crossing instead of overreacting.

Also Read: Teach Your Horse to Go Through Water on the Trail

If I have a horse that will not stop jumping the water, sometimes I’ll find a water crossing to practice that’s very wide, where the horse can’t reach the other side if he jumps. A shallow pond or a round pen after a heavy rain are good choices. Once the horse realizes he can’t jump to the other side, he’ll likely start going in properly.

Try to end your session on a calm note. If you repeat the water crossing lesson a few days in a row, you will likely have a horse that crosses water willingly for the rest of his life.

All the best to you and your horse!

This article about crossing water with your horse appeared in the August 2022 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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