Castle Leslie

With just a week available, I had to make the most out of every day. After spending a day recovering from jetlag and catching up with friends, it was off to Castle Leslie in County Monaghan. Located on the border of Northern Ireland, this was a perfect couple of days of horse-themed luxury.

I rented a car for the week, and while I adjusted pretty quickly to driving on the left-hand side of the road and shifting gears with my left hand, train service is available for anyone who doesn’t want the added stress of navigating the country roads by car.

The castle has an illustrious family history, and offers several options for accommodations. If you really want to make a splash, you can stay in the castle proper, or if you’d prefer more peace and quiet, the Old Stable Mews are located far out back on the property.

Most people interested in riding will be content to stay in The Lodge, which is connected to the stables and features the upscale Snaffles restaurant, drinks at Connor’s Pub, and a spa for relaxing after time in the saddle.

I arranged the trip to Castle Leslie through Unicorn Trails Horse Riding Holidays Worldwide, and the reservation process was easy and well managed. Every detail of the trip was smoothly planned in advance, and checking in at The Lodge was an easy process. The accommodations were well equipped and exceedingly comfortable. It was a huge highlight that the small balcony overlooked the stable yard.

My kids were heading back to school that week, but airfare from New Jersey to Ireland drops significantly in September: my flight was about $400, compared to over $1,000 in August.

My non-horsey husband agreed to deal with the back-to-school week so I could enjoy an adventure with my old friend, George Barry, who I’ve known since we were teenagers, when he and his sister and my brother competed in the International Tetrathlon exchange through Pony Club back in the late 1990s.

We’d traveled together before, and he’s a competent rider, and since riding is a high-risk sport—and so is driving a car in Ireland—I felt a little safer traveling with a companion.

Cross-Country Jumping

After settling in, we stretched our legs with a wander around the grounds and the castle. That evening we enjoyed an elegant six-course dinner at Snaffles. The food was delicious, featuring mainly locally sourced, fresh ingredients, and the service was impeccable. After dinner, we wandered out the door to the stables and admired the facilities and horses before retiring for the evening.

The full Irish breakfast the next morning was equally as impressive as dinner, if not more so. There was also an impressive array of fresh fruit, pastries and other breakfast items that left me wishing my appetite was larger. But with our horses waiting, I reined in my appetite. After changing into boots and breeches, we headed out to the stables.

The horses were fit and well cared for, and the borrowed helmets and cross-country vests were in good condition and up to the latest safety standards. I rode a gorgeous big gray mare named Blueberry, while George was on a stout gelding named Arnie. I’m 5’11”, and Blueberry took up my leg nicely. There were horses of all shapes and sizes, for riders of all shapes, sizes and levels of experience. A questionnaire in advance made sure that we met our ideal match.

Our instructor, Steven Carty, performed a brief assessment before we set off across the countryside. Steven was lovely and we chatted about the horses, the lifestyle working at the stables, and the history of the estate. If we’d had another night, I would have enjoyed sitting down with him for a pint at Connor’s Pub.

The jumps were on the small side, but since we were both out of practice, it was perfect. The cross-country course is extensive, but since we only had one day, we kept things simple, and the horses clearly knew the drill.

Next, we made our way to the corner of the lake, where we could jump in and out from a small bank or down a series of steps. Splashing through the lake with the castle in the background felt like a scene from a fairytale.

A walk in the woods that afternoon left me wishing we had more time to explore the estate. It was a peaceful way to wrap up our short visit, as the grounds and gardens are just as beautiful as the buildings.

The Wild Atlantic Way

I would have happily spent a week at the castle living the life of luxury, but our next stop would bring plenty of fun adventures. (In fact, if I were to do the trip again, I’d arrange to head to the castle after the beach).

A couple hours’ drive west to County Mayo brought us to the small coastal town of Westport, a scenic village set on the calm, clear waters of Clew Bay. The bay is home to a number of tiny islands—“one for every day of the year”—and set in the shadow of Croagh Patrick, the mountain where Saint Patrick is said to have driven the snakes from Ireland.

This segment of the trip was organized by Ireland Equestrian Tours and operated by Go Trekking Ireland. Laura Lamb of Ireland Equestrian Tours sent a number of brochures over with information about the various options, and the Wild Atlantic Way seemed a good fit for a bit of adventure and beach riding after our cross-country schooling up in County Monaghan.

We stayed at George’s uncle John’s house on the way, and got an early start to Westport so that we could be out riding early, before the tide came in. We met the proprietor of the Westport Woods Hotel, Michael Lennon, who took us to his stables to select our horses for a beach ride. I chose a tall, athletic and solidly built chestnut hunter type named Coady, while George rode a gray named Naymar.

Beach Ride to Remember

We followed the horsebox to a spot where we unloaded and mounted up. Four of us set off across the bay. Our guide, Joanne Mason, was on a smaller cob who was fairly submerged in some of the deeper water crossings, so I was glad to be on a long-legged sport horse!

Eventually we ended up on Bertra Strand, where we had a good gallop on the beach and then rode out on a grassy headland overlooking a couple of large islands. After clattering over a stony section, we came to another beach where we rode out in the waves, before crossing back over to Bertra Strand for another good gallop in the shadow of Croagh Patrick. By the time we wrapped up our antics, the tide had come in, so we picked our way around the bay and back to the horsebox.

After riding, we stopped at a local pub for a truly Irish experience: drinking a pint in front of a peat fire. While harvesting peat is banned in much of the country, some locals are still allowed to harvest a limited amount using ancient methods, and the particular smoky atmosphere in the pub evoked a bygone era.

At Michael’s suggestion, we spent the afternoon at Ballinrobe Races, about 45 minutes south. It was the final meet of the season and there was a good crowd out for the racing. This was a fun way to see another aspect of the Irish horse industry and enjoy the excitement of placing a few small bets. I braved the bookies and bet a couple of Euros on two winning horses, bringing home around 40 Euros and a slightly inflated sense of my ability to judge a winning horse.

That evening, we settled on the Westway Pub in downtown Westport for a bite to eat. The food was fresh and simple and the atmosphere smart but casual. I’d hoped to stop in to listen to the traditional music at another pub up the street, but with another day of riding planned, opted for an early bedtime instead.

Surfing Beach

The next morning the horses were hauled to Carrownisky Strand, a popular surfing beach a half-hour or so down the road. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and a little surreal unloading the horses in a sandy parking area populated mainly by surfers and families taking their kids to the beach for the day.

We made a bit of a spectacle, galloping on the wide, sandy beach, which is the home to an annual horse race. The horses were eager to go and we were all too happy to oblige, with sea spray splashing in our grinning faces.

To cool the horses out, we hacked to the nearby Bunlahinch Clapper Footbridge, the largest complete clapper bridge in Ireland, at 50 meters long. Its 37 arches are constructed in a primitive style, each made of flat limestone slabs, and likely dates to the 1840s.

On the way back, we walked past cow pastures and bogs where sheep were grazing on the verdant grass, later taking another lively canter down the beach. The horses were very fit and had plenty in the tank to give another good run.

Mountain Ride

The original plan was to do the mountain ride the following day, but with stormy weather in the forecast, I opted to join a group going out that afternoon. After a short rest at the hotel, I headed back to the stables with Michael and an American woman and her daughter who had just arrived on holiday. (George had taken an unplanned dismount into the saltwater on our beach ride and wasn’t keen to go on a three-hour ride in soaking wet clothing, so he stayed behind and had a stroll around the town).

I was on Coady once again, and we rode directly from the stables and enjoyed a long, leisurely hack to the base of the mountain. Other than an easy canter up a long gravel track, this ride maintained a leisurely pace and was a good opportunity to take in views of the peat bog, the mountain, and sweeping views of Clew Bay, following narrow lanes winding over hills and through little valleys past cottages and farms.

That evening, we walked from the hotel to the Quay for dinner at the Towers Pub, a little more upscale than the previous evening’s location. Following Joanne’s recommendation, we followed dinner with pink gin cocktails garnished with strawberries at the Coast Hotel across the street. It was charming and refreshing and a nice accompaniment to the live music featured that evening.

All too soon, it was time to head to the airport, return the trusty rental car and fly home.

◆ Amber’s Packing Tips and List for an Irish Riding Holiday

This article about a horseback riding holiday in Ireland appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Located in Parkfield, “the Cowboy Side of California,” the V6 Ranch is owned and operated by the Varian family. A world away (but just four hours from L.A. or San Francisco), this 20,000-acre working cattle ranch is balm for the modern soul and medicine for horse lovers of all ages and abilities.

Founding a Ranch

In 1958, Jack Varian had just earned a degree in animal husbandry and married his sweetheart Zera, whom he called Zee. She grew up with horses in Southern California, and they were ready to start their life together as cattle ranchers.

Their first ranch was on hardscrabble, unforgiving land. After working it for three years, by some miracle a man wanted to buy it and Jack and Zee happily sold.

Two years later, they found a ranch of about 8,000 acres in the tiny town of Parkfield, nestled in the Cholame Valley in Central California. This land was completely different from their first ranch. Rich with life, water, and beauty, they soon understood why the indigenous Tachi Yokut inhabitants had named the area Cholame (“the beautiful one”).

Jack and Zee called the place the V6 Ranch after their family of six, which included their kids Katherine, Lillian, John and Gregory. They acquired more acres over the years as they raised their family on the ranch. Then a funny thing happened.

“As all of us kids finished college and were looking to start our new lives, we all realized we wanted to come back to Parkfield,” says son John Varian.

The problem? Even though the ranch was now 20,000 acres, with the cattle operation running about 1,000 head per year, it provided income to only support Jack and Zee. The rest of the kids would need to find a different way to make a living if they wanted to live on the V6.

Welcome to Parkfield, Pop. 18

By the 1980s, the little town of Parkfield was pretty much gone. There were still a few homes and residents but no public buildings. The old bar had burned down in the 1970s. There was a one-room schoolhouse and a community hall, but the rest of the buildings were abandoned.

“I had some construction experience from doing side jobs in college, so Dad and I started rebuilding Parkfield in 1989,” says John. “We decided we needed a restaurant first, so we started by building the Parkfield Cafe. At first, it didn’t have an indoor kitchen, so we began cooking outside on the pit for guests.”

The restaurant was finished as a log cabin—“the only thing we knew how to build”—and the Parkfield Cafe started to become a destination for barbeque and hearty meals. Once the restaurant took hold, the family decided to build a lodge so people could stay overnight.

In 1991, they built the Parkfield Lodge, using lots of reclaimed and repurposed material. It has 10 unique rooms and a gathering room with a rock fireplace.

“Then we kept going and repurposed the old buildings in Parkfield,” says John. “Now the old town provides comfortable lodging for our guests.”

The original 1920s Shell Water Tower is a two-story suite. The local post office, which was dragged to its location in 1906 by a team of horses, is a two-bedroom suite. The spacious Cowboy Cabin, built by John and his ranch crew, offers privacy and rustic luxury.

Bring on the Cattle Drives

One night in 1991, Jack and Zee went to town to see the movie City Slickers.

“As the family story goes, they watched as city folk ventured out to a cattle ranch for a vacation,” John says. “Driving home, they agreed. This was the next step for the V6.”

The idea: Take what they’d started in Parkfield with the cafe and lodge and begin to expand what they offered. Why not offer the ranching work and the experiences they had every day and share it with people?

John’s wife Barb created a brochure about their new cattle drives and started spreading the word.

“People came and had a great time, and it just went from there,” says John. “Then we continued to expand on what people wanted with different rides and experiences. We also knew that people with their own horses would love to come ride out on our working cattle ranch, so we built the Horse Camp to accommodate that.”

Saddle Up

“As a working cattle ranch, we have a lot of work to do and a lot of ranch land to cover,” John explains. “We love being able to share the work we’d be doing anyway with people from all over the world.”

Today, the V6 offers a range of ways to experience ranch life during the needs of each season. All V6 Ranch experiences are open to riders aged 7 and older and all skill levels. The ranch hands and wranglers at the V6 are family or friends from local ranches, so you’re in good hands. On many of the rides, you can bring your own horse.

Here’s what awaits you at the V6:

Dude Ranch Weekends: Two and a half days of riding out on the ranch, hearty meals, a massage, lodging in one of the fun Parkfield town buildings, and a chance to unplug and unwind. These are great for families and riders who may be newer to horses.

Cowboy Academy: Five-day working ranch experience where riders can improve their horsemanship and working knowledge of cattle and ranch skills, from gathering and sorting cattle to roping, ranch obstacles courses, and beautiful trail rides.

Cowboy Academy 102: Five-day, corral-based ride focused on honing roping and cattle-sorting skills, including breakaway roping live cattle in the corral, roping a mechanical steer, learning how to read a cow, alley sorting, and more.

Wrangler Ride: With coaching from the V6 Ranch crew, explore the trails and learn a wide variety of ranch skills such as gathering, sorting, roping and negotiating ranch obstacles.

Cattle Drives: For more than 30 years, the Varian family has invited guests four times a year to help gather and move cattle throughout the vast lands of the V6 Ranch. On each day of the four-day drive, riders will spend about six hours in the saddle gathering and moving cattle and then sleep under the stars.

Pack Trip: New for 2024, join the Varian family to ride and camp out for four days on the most remote and beautiful parts of the V6.

Meet the Horses

In addition to the variety of riding and experiences, another thing that’s special about the V6 is that there is no nose-to-tail trail riding.

“Our horses are ranch horses, not dude horses, because you can’t gather cattle nose to tail,” John explains. “You’ve got to spread out and be able to direct your horse wherever you need to go, and the same when you’re in the arena sorting or at a branding.”

The horses that the guests ride are the same horses that the Varian crew uses when no guests are at the ranch. The horses are experienced, savvy and can navigate the hills, rivers, and draws of the V6 with confidence.

With Quarter Horses, Paints, and Half-Arabians in their herd, it’s the horses’ cow sense, ranch work experience and intelligence, not their specific breed, that makes them great partners.

Interesting to note is that Jack Varian’s cousin was Sheila Varian, the renowned Arabian breeder, trainer, and horsewoman. In 1961, she changed history when she became the first woman to win the Reined Cow Horse Open Championship at San Francisco’s Cow Palace, and she did so on her Arabian mare, Ronteza.

Sheila came out to the V6 quite often and brought her rock-solid Arabian ranch horses to sort, brand, and gather cattle in the roughest places on the ranch. Today, the V6 has a few Half-Arabians from Sheila’s breeding program.

Getting to the V6 Ranch

“As I like to say, Parkfield is in the middle of nowhere, but it’s four hours from everything,” says John. The V6 is reachable by several airports: San Luis Obispo (SBP; 65 miles), Fresno (FAT; 110 miles), and San Jose (SJC; 175 miles). It’s also a half-day’s drive from Los Angeles or San Francisco.

Another Place and Time

If the whisper of a simpler time and the distant echo of hoofbeats is calling to you, take a trip to the V6 Ranch. Every member of the Varian family will welcome you to relax and enjoy, and the ranch horses will eagerly join you as you discover “the beautiful one.”

For more information on visiting V6 Ranch in Parkfield, Calif., visit v6ranch.com. If a ride you’re interested in is booked, add yourself to the waitlist. Last-minute cancellations often open up.

This article about the V6 Ranch appeared in the October 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Unicorn Trails has many remote and adventurous destinations throughout the world, but this one tops the charts for diverse scenery, unique culture, and local hospitality.

Panama City

My friend, Ali, and I spend a night in Panama City to enjoy a traditional Panamanian meal, including yucca and plantains, in the brightly decorated Sabroso restaurant on the Amador causeway. Colorfully lit buses drive the road beside the park where families walk enjoying the city lights reflecting in the water.

Lunch in El Valle, a town constructed in the middle of an extinct volcano, breaks up our five-hour drive to Santa Fe. We arrive just in time for dinner at Hotel Anachoreo and join our friends, Dawn and Tracy, for homemade fish soup, with fresh herbs from the hotels incredible garden.

Our host, Lizzie, a fit-looking young woman originally from Zimbabwe, arrives to introduce herself and let us know the plan for the morning.

“My farm is on the river, which isn’t always passable because of the rain, so the horses will be transported by road—the long way around—to a friend’s farm, where we’ll begin,” she says.

While handing out cushy saddle seat covers and saddle bags, she reminds us to pack our bathing suits and towels.

Meeting the Horses

After a breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, crepes and bacon, we hop in Lizzie’s Jeep to a small corral where her helper, Jose, is just finishing tacking up the horses.

Ali is given Pali, a small palomino mare; Dawn is presented with Luca, a tall brown-and-white Paint Horse; and Tracy has a cute blue roan named Chombin.

Jose and Lizzie adjust the stirrups and I mount up on Capitan, a gaited chestnut Criollo. The western saddle is extremely comfortable.

“They are locally made,” Lizzy tells me. Some of the horses are also bitless, which is always a pleasant surprise.

Lizzie leads the way on a stallion named Calypso.

“He hasn’t been ridden in a while,” she tells us. “We’ll see what happens.”

Jose takes up the rear on a mule named Mr. Red, ponying Little Dude, a small gray Criollo gelding. Kids come out to greet us.

Calypso, eager to run uphill, takes the lead on a wonderful gallop up the mountain road. Resting at Cerro Tute, historically known as a rebel hideout, we tie the horses to a fence for a snack and enjoy the views of the small town of Santa Fe, population approximately 3,500.

Petroglyphs and Swimming

After crossing the peak, the pine trees turn into cactus plants and the dirt road turns to clay—from forest to desert just like that! We zig-zag through an array of round rocks displaying petroglyphs (see pg. 72). The wind cools us from the hot sun, but it’s so strong that it blows the sun brim off my helmet. Even Ali’s special brim with Velcro and hooks can’t fight it.

We cross a large river, tie the horses to trees and untack them.

“Time for a swim,” Lizzy announces.

Ali takes Pali right in, deep enough to swim. I hop on Capitan and he is eager to cool off. The current is strong, but the horses plunge through. It’s so much fun I can feel my smile growing from ear to ear the deeper I get. The water is just right—refreshing but not too cold.

Leaving the horses behind for Jose to take home, we head into town for a delightful late lunch at a local restaurant and have some yummy ginger chicken. We stop at a store where I purchase a wide-brim hat for under my helmet, and the others find shoes for swimming.

A vivid rainbow can be seen from our hotel, where we enjoy fresh cheese from the cheese shop before dinner.

A Steep Climb to the Cows

A local farmer, Wilson, has invited us to explore his land. We enjoy coffee and homemade muffins in his barn the next morning before heading out. This is the first time Lizzie has taken him up on his offer, and he seems excited to have us.

Ali has decided to give the mule, Mr. Red, a try, and he turns out to be a good choice for the narrow, rocky paths clinging to the hillside. We dismount and follow Wilson to a hidden cave, complete with bats and human bones.

Steep climbs that lead to incredible vistas and long canters on the sandy footing are a treat. After a rest in the shade, Jose helps Wilson round up his cows, and we help herd them back to the ranch where a homemade picnic awaits us.

Dawn’s Paint Horse, Luca, is the perfect mount to practice roping cows while Wilson and Jose brand calves. What a day!

Tropical Forest Waterfall

Dawn’s sister, Danialle, has finally arrived (delayed due to passport issues), and she joins us for the rest of the week. Just when you think it can’t get any better, Lizzie keeps throwing surprises at us.

We begin to explore the tropical forests of the Santa Fe National Park, a 290-square mile conservation area. Surrounded by hanging vines and tropical plants, a very steep climb takes us to a stunning waterfall, where we can jump in to cool off and swim around in its pools.

The newly purchased shoes for swimming come in handy. The current is strong in parts, so we have to be careful. At the end of a great ride we cross the river, dismount and enjoy a wonderful riverside BBQ, finished off with Ali’s special grilled pineapple.

A freshly graded red dirt road on the side of a mountain allows for long gallops. At the top, we rest and take in the views, trying to spot our hotel below.

Organic Farm & Hanging Bridge

Deep in the forest, we ride to an organic farm for lunch, of which 90 percent of the ingredients are home-grown. The owner gives us a demonstration of how coffee is made. Everyone we meet is super friendly and accommodating.

The clouds continue to linger in the next valley, and we can feel the mist in the air, but the rain subsides for the entire week. Everyone has been happy with their mounts. Nothing seems to faze them: not the horses running in pastures next to us, cows coming to check us out, trucks on the road, or barking dogs.

They are put to the test when we have to cross a long, skinny hanging bridge hovering above the river. We dismount and walk them across. I am shaking in my boots, but Capitan doesn’t flinch. These horses are amazing—even at an old telephone booth, Dawn coaxes Luca right up to grab the receiver.

Goodbyes & The Canopy Tower

Our last ride finishes at Lizzie’s farm, where we untack the horses and help Jose bathe them and turn them out. It is with sweet sorrow that we say goodbye to the horses, the farm, Wilson, Lizzie and Jose. The experience has been incredibly unique.

Ali and I finish the trip with a breakfast tour of The Canopy Tower, just outside of Panama City, where we get to watch various tropical birds and monkeys at the top of the rain forest. A nature walk rewards us with an anteater sighting, a first for me.

Panama has never been a destination at the top of my list, but Unicorn Trails Santa Fe Jungle Ride with Horseback Panama touched my heart. The horses, the people, the locally grown food, and the stunning scenery definitely won me over.

For more on the Santa Fe Jungle Ride, visit here.

Other Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ Top 10 International Horseback Riding Destinations
◆ The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch
◆ Riding Through Sicily
◆ Riding Camargue Horses in France

This article about a trail ride in Panama appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post A Trail Ride in Panama appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The steep uphill gravel road to the ranch is in rough shape.

“It’s only open from June to October,” Curt says while navigating the large ruts. “Hopefully it will be graded by next week when you head out.”

Passing pine forests and rolling green hills, we arrive at a reservoir reflecting the snowcapped mountains before entering the gates of Spear-O-Wigwam, which sport a 100th anniversary banner on the fence.

Founded in 1923 by Willis Spear, a local rancher, the 17-acre property with seven cabins continues its dude ranch legacy through investors with local ties.

The fire crackles in the lounge next to the dining area, where I enjoy a meal of lasagna and Caesar salad with some of the other other guests, here for day rides or kayaking, canoeing, and fishing. In my quaint riverside cabin, I organize my gear for tomorrow’s pack trip.

Day 1

A moose, not bothered by my presence, wanders the grounds as I head for breakfast, a smorgasbord of fruit, quiche, pancakes and sausage. Our host, Mark Patterson of Cross Country Equine, introduces me to Gabby and Lydia, who will join me and returning guest Joleen on the pack ride.

As instructed, we arrive at the main corral with our bags where Pence, Claude and Pistol stand quietly as Mark meticulously weighs and loads every piece before placing it in their packs, checking constantly for even distribution.

“It’s key to not having to stop on the trail to fix anything,” he declares.

Mark chooses Canyon, a sturdy draft cross, for me, and two Norwegian Fjord crosses, Princess and Babydoll, for Lydia and Gabby. Joleen is given her favorite horse from last year’s ride, Chester, while Mark leads the pack on Swede (both their mounts are Norwegian Fjords).

We head out of the corral, crossing the first creek of many, one with a spectacular backdrop of mountains. Green meadows full of colorful wildflowers lead us to an uphill path in the woods. Canyon carefully chooses his way through the narrow, rocky parts.

“Let the horses pick their way, and make sure they have forward momentum, especially on the steep parts,” Mark advises. “It’s harder for them to get their legs in front of them if they slip when going uphill.”

At 9,760 feet, the tree line opens to breathtaking views of Geneva Pass and Geneva Lake before arriving at the camp at Crystal Lake, where rocky cliffs reflect on the water’s surface.

We untack the horses and turn them out for a well-deserved roll and to graze in the fenced-in area surrounding camp. Several teepees, including one for cooking, spot the grounds. Mark unpacks the bags and I change into my bathing suit for a quick dip in the chilly yet refreshing water.

After a scrumptious steak dinner, I drift off to sleep on the cot in my teepee to the sound of the melting snow cascading over the rocks into the lake.

Day 2

The cliffs glow in the morning light behind the horses grazing at the lake shore.

A full day at camp allows for exploration deeper into the Cloud Peak Wilderness area, an expanse of 295 square miles in the Bighorn Mountain Range, which has been protected by the Wyoming Wilderness act since 1984.

Mark trims branches from fallen trees on the trail that climbs to spectacular views. The Solitude loop takes us to the high country of remote lakes, cascading waterfalls, fast-running streams and snow still lingering in the mountains crevices.

The shore of Cliff Lake across from its jagged rock edges provides a peaceful lunch stop. On the way back to camp, we cool off the horses in the deep water of a small lake, sometimes belly deep. I take advantage of the clear night sky to watch the shooting stars before heading to my teepee for the night.

Day 3

In the early morning we help take down camp, as it will be the last trip here this season.

“The pasture is pretty much done,” Mark says. “And with any luck, the snow has melted enough to head to Beaver Creek camp for the next pack trip.”

Mark diligently weighs each box and bag before loading up the pack horses.

With total confidence in Canyon, I’m now relaxed over the steep, rocky terrain and can simply enjoy the views of the Bighorn Mountains against the blue sky. We allow the horses to drink at each of the numerous creek crossings before arriving at the familiar green meadow just before the ranch.

At Spear-O-Wigwam, we have time to untack, say our goodbyes and head into Sheridan for the rodeo’s opening night—I truly feel like a cowgirl now!

To learn more, visit @crosscountryequine on Instagram or go to spearowigwam.com.

This article about a pack ride in Wyoming appeared in the August 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Errol stood squarely between us and the undulating turquoise sea.

“I need you to listen to me,” he said. “People who know how to ride never listen to this part, and they always mess it up.” His sternness was softened by a twinkle in his eyes.

My friend Beth and I looked at one another and grinned before returning our full attention to our guide, who explained how we would ride our horses into the water and get ourselves into position for an “only in Jamaica” experience: floating behind our mounts’ powerful hind ends while they swam, towing us with their tails.

Even for a pair of lifelong equestrians with a penchant for travel, this adventure was a first.

Half Moon Resort’s Commitment to Rescue

Beth and I met more than a decade ago in Colorado as volunteers for a racehorse rehoming organization. In the years since, life took us to opposite ends of the country, making in-person visits hard to come by. It made sense that our first reunion after years of separation, the stresses of Covid, and our own personal stories of grief would center around horses.

It was a perfect surprise to arrive at Half Moon Resort’s elegant stables to find that 13 of the program’s 23 mounts are adopted horses in different stages of rehabilitation.

There’s Timmy, the failed polo pony with trust issues. Precious, a sweet off-track Thoroughbred. Ebony, a 25-year-old pony who was near death when Half Moon’s Equestrian Director Trina Delisser rescued her from a roadside pony-ride operation eight years ago.

“She wasn’t supposed to live six months, but here she is,” says Delisser.

Delisser has been running Half Moon’s equestrian program for 37 years. Raised in Kingston, Jamaica, she grew up riding whenever she could as the daughter of an international polo player.

She came to Montego Bay’s Half Moon Resort when it became clear that continuing her passion would require turning it into a career. And while she has competed in polo and showjumping, she clearly loves giving horses a second chance.

Under Delisser, life at Half Moon’s Equestrian Centre is flexible for the horses. She has the skills and commitment needed to give a horse like Timmy the attention and mental rehab he needs.

Older horses like Ebony and those that are intermittently sore benefit from the opportunity to swim (with or without guests, depending on their needs). And those in good mental and physical health get a fun job.

Swimming with Horses

After touring the airy white barns and greeting the dogs, donkeys, and Gene the goat, our group of three guests and two guides mounted up and began the walk to the beach. I rode Zayne, a lanky gray rescue who sauntered happily along behind our guide Errol and his mount Coltrane.

Minutes later, we traded tree-lined pavement for sugary white sand, where we dismounted and readied ourselves for the main event: the swim!

Once the horses were untacked and the humans stripped down to swimwear, we climbed on bareback. I now rode Coltrane while Errol rode Zayne (since the gray became a natural leader in the water) and marched into the sea.   

As Errol led us toward swimming depths, he belted out Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds.” The crystal clear water grew deeper, and the horses began the distinctive rumble that indicates they were starting to swim.

“Drop your reins!” Errol shouted over the noise, and suddenly, we were weightless. I tangled my fingers in Coltrane’s mane and leaned forward, letting my legs floating behind me as we swam into the rolling waves.

Suddenly, I heard Errol’s voice again. “To the tail!” he shouted, and I gently pushed myself toward Coltrane’s chestnut tail.

As we swam in sweeping circles, I held onto Coltrane for guidance, but the sea kept me afloat, and somehow, there was minimal resistance. I turned on my side and found Beth. We were both laughing the way we probably did the first time we cantered. I kept rotating onto my back, to look at the cotton-ball clouds. Then I spun onto my stomach to take in the strange vision of horse ears held just above ocean.

As we turned toward the shore one last time, we let the waves push us onto our horses’ backs. My heart sank. The ride was over. But as I squinted at the palm-lined beach, the postcard water, my dear friend, and the shine of a wet equine neck, I took a deep breath of gratitude.

For at least a moment, it felt like Errol (and Bob Marley) were right. Everything would be alright.

Opportunities for Different Levels of Experience

Beyond the Jamaican magic of swimming with horses, Half Moon Equestrian Centre offers a range of experiences suitable for riders and non-riders:

◆ Private dressage, jumping, or polo lessons are available for beginner to advanced riders over 10 years old.

◆ Inexperienced and rusty riders 6 and older may opt for a leisurely horseback “Sand Stroll” to the beach with a bit of a dip in water (but no swimming) or a mini lesson in the arena followed by a ride around the property.

◆ Kids 6 and under can spend their time learning to interact with the array of animals that call the Equestrian Centre home, including donkeys, goats, and of course, ponies!

◆ Adults looking for some quality horse time out of the saddle can sign up for a “Positive Empowerment” groundwork session.

If you’re ready to get away and relax while admiring turquoise waters around horses, this could be your perfect destination.

Learn more and book your stay at halfmoon.com.

This article about Half Moon Resort appeared in the June 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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After a swim in the pool and a soak in the hot tub, I joined guests in the main lodge for their final social gathering and outdoor barbecue. The stories of their week’s riding adventures were abundant, and everyone seemed eager to return, one on her sixth visit. I spent the next few days learning the secret to The Hideout’s success.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch History

In 1995, David Flitner and Paula De Cabooter-Flitner started construction of the guest ranch, building the main lodge, cabins, arena, and barn on a prime riverfront location of the property, offering unobstructed views of the Big Horn Mountains.

Initially named after a local historical ranch, Trapper Creek Guest Ranch, it was rebranded as Hideout Adventures, Inc. Peter De Cabooter, Paula’s nephew, arrived from Belgium in 2006 to help, and a year later was joined by his wife Marijn and their twin boys.

The reins were eventually handed over to Peter, and The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch began its growth.

Year-Round Focus

Taking over full ownership in 2017, Peter began the transition from a seasonal three or four months per year operation into a more sustainable year-round business. His corporate experience is key to The Hideout’s success today.

“In order to keep a reliable crew and create a culture, we needed to offer more year-round jobs for our staff,” he says.

Peter follows the “3 C Culture” of character, conduct and competence.

“One can train for competence, but not for character and conduct,” he explains. “And this is even harder in a seasonal environment.”

Having the right crew focusing on the principles of their authentic hospitality—taking care of its people, guests, and horses—is of the utmost importance, as is their branded Authentic Horsemanship.

Authentic Horsemanship

When Marijn first arrived at the ranch, she was far from a cowgirl. Mileage in the saddle and exposure to many horse trainers, including Yvet Blokesch of Featherlite Academy in the Netherlands and Parelli trainers Farrah Green and Amy Bowers, Marijn gained well-rounded horsemanship skills.

Marijn was introduced to liberty work by Kirsten Brein, trainee of Lorenzo the Flying Frenchman, and now shares her knowledge with interested guests. From various training methods, The Hideout shaped their own branded Authentic Horsemanship based on a trusting relationship through communication, respect and understanding.

Peter describes it as “An ethical, respectful, safe, enjoyable and professional approach, getting the best out of both horse and rider.”

The Horses and Trails

I could sense the Authentic Horsemanship methodology from the saddle while on one of their many horses. With over 650,000 acres to explore and elevations ranging from 4,200 to 13,100 feet, there are a broad range of climates and plenty of biodiversity within riding distance of the ranch.

We chose the cooler canyon ride to escape the August heat. I would be riding with Peter and Marijn’s son Victor, as well as Nina Reuter, a German woman who was originally a Hideout guest, but who left a corporate life in New York to join the Hideout crew.

We crossed rushing rivers surrounded by lush greenery in the red rock canyons, cantered on sandy footing, and galloped past the red Needle Rock towering above us. A short trailer ride brought us to the nearby bentonite clay-painted hills.

My mount, a palomino Quarter Horse named Sheridan, was a true gem. Being well tuned in neck reining, there was minimal rein contact needed, and gaits changed simply from my seat.

“What a wonderful treat for a trail horse,” I said to Nina.

“Yes,” she replied. “The key is to train the guests how to ride our horses.”

Orientation and Safety Talk

All guests, from beginner to advanced riders, participate in an extensive safety orientation at the start of the week, then mount up for an ability assessment.

I watched guests ranging in ages from 11 to 75 walk in a circle and stop, trot along the rail, and depending on their self-proclaimed ability, perform a few canter strides. Instructed to use only their seat for balance, some experienced difficulties, but Marijn reassured improvement by week’s end. It was a safe yet revealing way to split into groups before hitting the trails.

Returning later with big grins, everyone had fun and felt comfortable. Catering rides to their guests’ preference on length, pace, and terrain, the wranglers could now make informed decisions on who was capable of what.

The Whole Package

In my short visit, I concluded that what brings guests back repeatedly to The Hideout is their attention to detail, consistency, and authenticity. Their hospitality and horsemanship benefits everyone, especially the horses, creating a perfect balance.

The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch in Shell, Wyo., ticks all the boxes necessary for a comfortable adventure on safe horses in spectacularly diverse scenery. I applaud them!

Learn more about a visit to The Hideout Lodge & Guest Ranch at thehideout.com.

This article appeared in the April 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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If you’re hoping to incorporate your love for horses with your travel adventures, read on to find out our top 10 international horseback riding destinations.

The pull. The desire. The insatiable yearning to see another country, a different culture, from the back of a horse. This is the vacation so many of us horse lovers and riders seek. Maybe the time has finally come to check one or more of these treks off your bucket list.

But with an entire world of places and experiences to choose from, it’s a challenge to narrow down the options. From the fenceless steppes of Mongolia to the ancient art of Yabusame horseback archery in Japan, get ready to explore, fellow traveler.

To awaken your wanderlust, read on for our top 10 hand-picked horseback riding adventures in 10 different countries of destination, each specifically curated to expand your horizons and take you on the road less traveled.

1. Iceland

Ride the tölt of an Icelandic Horse and explore the land of fire and ice.

One of the least densely populated countries in the world, Iceland is also a land of contrasts: moss fields and mountains, black sand beaches and geysers, volcanoes and waterfalls, highlands and rivers.

What could be better to explore the beauty of Iceland than by riding a beloved native Icelandic Horse and experiencing its unique gait, the tölt?

There’s beauty to explore in every direction, and it doesn’t stop when winter comes. Bundle up for day rides through the snow. In the evenings, it’s time to gather outside and look up. Will the sky catch fire as the Northern Lights play in the inky, starry night?

Learn more at islandshestar.is.

2. Egypt

Explore the sands of time on an Arabian.

Do the epic landscapes of Wadi Rum, made famous by the Oscar-winning film “Lawrence of Arabia,” call to you? Do you dream of riding an Arabian, tail flying and neck proudly arched, as you race the ancient sands of their homeland?

In Egypt, you can experience a bit of Bedouin life and the reverence for their equine family. Let your eyes trace the detail of 2,500-year-old petroglyphs. Gaze through the inquisitive ears of your trusted Arabian from the Giza Plateau to the pyramids beyond.

Explore the Temple of Medinet Habu, the mountains of Thebes, and the banks of the fabled Nile. And finally, after a long day, ride into the Red Sea with your horse as you cool off in the clear waters.

Whether it’s a day trip or a week-long adventure, the history and beauty of Egypt will seep into your bones and stay with you long after you return home.

Learn more at rideegypt.com.

3. Mongolia

Travel the steppes and history of horse-based nomadic culture.

The vast, grassy steppes of Mongolia are joined by mountains, rivers, forests, and desert, filling this land with natural beauty—and very few people. The landscape and way of life have not changed much over the centuries.

Today, mounted nomads crisscross the huge country as they care for and move their herds and homes with the changing seasons.

To truly experience this land, its people, horses and culture, there’s no better way than on horseback. Exploring with a local horse—strong, small, fast and surefooted—lets you experience the terrain in the way it has been for generations. With few roads and fewer fences, the wide-open spaces invite you to canter freely and find the uncharted lands within you.

You may even have the chance to visit the Gobi Desert with its wild camels, Gobi bears, snow leopards and the rare wild Przewalski horses.

Learn more here (click on Mongolia).

4. Japan

Learn the ancient art of archery on horseback.

Yabusame is the ancient Japanese martial art of mounted archery, dating back to the 6th century. In ancient times, it served as both a military skill and a Shinto ritual to entertain the gods and to pray for the community’s well-being.

With archers having only a few seconds to shoot three stationary targets from their galloping horse, this art is difficult and exciting. You can watch a Yabusame competition at festivals across Japan. Often held at shrines, they are dignified events with traditional etiquette and costumes.

You can learn the art of Yabusame at a riding club in Munakata, Fukuoka, in southern Japan. After a lesson in archery and getting expert tips, you’ll make your debut as a Yabusame archer, firing arrows at your targets while riding a galloping horse.

The same club also offers beachside rides for all levels of riders along a tranquil beach.

Learn more with Rakuten.

5. Wales

Make your own adventure with a self-guided ride.

If you’re experienced in riding at all gaits over varied terrain and are confident in taking care of your horse each day, gather a friend (or a few) and head out to explore the vistas of Wales. But this ride is not the usual trail ride with people you don’t know and a guide deciding what you do and when.

Instead, you’re on your own. Each day, you mount up on your horse in the company of people you know. With a trail map tucked in your saddle bag and the day’s itinerary flexible, you can explore the rolling hills, lush landscapes, gurgling streams, and cozy towns that make Wales a perfect place for a holiday on horseback.

Get ready to create an unforgettable experience while you relax and enjoy the freedom as you choose your own adventure.

Learn more at free-rein.co.uk.

6. Kenya

Experience the magic of an African safari from horseback.

Impala. Wildebeest. Giraffe. Zebra. Lion. Antelope. Rolling savannah. Acacia woodland. Endless sky.

Experiencing the wild heart of an African safari is a bucket-list trip for many. Doing it on horseback brings you even closer to nature and the flow of each day on the savannah.

Internationally known riding instructor and author Wendy Murdoch personally hosts horseback safari adventures. Riding each day with the group, she shares her knowledge as the adventure of a lifetime unfolds.

Murdoch works with Safaris Unlimited, which keeps the true safari tradition alive with a mobile tented camp that is packed up and moved by your crew as you ride out each day to observe game. You’ll be transported back to the era of the movie “Out of Africa,” with touches of luxury and gourmet meals, yet still stay close to the land and the vast star-filled sky. 

Details for the 2025 trip will be posted on her website in the coming months.

Learn more at murdochmethod.com (click Safari).

7. France

Canter a fabled white Camargue horse through the sea of the French Mediterranean.

The Camargue region of southern France is home to a diversity of wildlife. Flamingos thrive in the marshy delta on France’s Mediterranean coast, but the beautiful and historically significant area may be better known for its native white Camargue horses. Believed to date back thousands of years, the hardy Camargues have evolved to thrive in the harsh environment of saline wetlands.

For generations, the area cowboys, known as le gardians, have worked with the silvery, salt-water-loving Camargue horses and still use them today to manage free-range herds of prized black Camargue bulls and cattle. Horses and cattle are often raised together on the same open ranches.

Riding a Camargue horse alongside a knowledgeable gardian is the best way to experience this land of salt and sea and history.

www.globetrotting.com.au/horse-riding-holidays/camargue-france

Also Read: Riding Camargue Horses in France

8. Scotland

Bring the family and relax at this horse-centric hotel.

No horse holiday wish list is complete without a ride through the vibrant green hills of the UK. But what if you want to bring the family and not worry about the little ones having fun, too?

Never fear, the Scottish Equestrian Hotel is here. As one of the UK’s largest riding centers, it offers a variety of riding programs from pony rides for the very young and a Pony Club program, plus lessons for all ages. Adults can head out for the six-day Castles Trail Ride.

It’s also a highly rated B&B that non-riders come to enjoy. With campfires, a pool, volleyball and special kids-only activities, this may be just the place for family reconnection time.

Learn more at scottishequestrianhotel.com.

9. Portugal

Explore classical dressage with lessons on the country’s treasured Lusitano.

Portugal’s connection with horses started in pre-Roman times and developed into a strong equestrian tradition that has stood the test of time. The legendary Portuguese dressage trainer Nuno Oliveira’s classical teachings continue, and the country’s beautiful and talented Lusitano breed is a Portuguese national treasure.

Many dressage schools and farms offer lessons for all levels of riders on well-trained Lusitanos. Whether you’re just starting as a dressage rider or you want to refine your abilities, a dressage riding holiday in Portugal can help bring you to the next level.

Learn more at equitours.com/europe/portugal.

10. New Zealand

Explore the magic of the “Lord of the Rings” region.

If you’ve drooled at the scenery in the “Lord of the Rings” trilogy, it’s time to journey to the land of hobbits and wizards, dwarves and elves. Glenorchy, on the South Island region of Otago, New Zealand, has been the set for LOTR as well as The Hobbit, The Chronicles of Narnia and Taylor Swift’s “Out of The Woods” music video.

While you can find film set tours that take you to a few locations, why not take a journey on horseback through these magical lands? Just like Bilbo Baggins leaving the Shire astride his pony, a grand adventure awaits you.

Learn more at highcountryhorses.nz.

Planning Your International Horseback Riding Trip

When you’ve narrowed down which trip you want to go on, here are the next steps you’ll want to take.

• Check the expiration date of your passport. Renew it if needed and be sure it doesn’t expire during the trip timeframe.
• Research additional travel documents you may need, such as visas.
• Look up specific information about your destination (including travel advisories).
• Check out the U.S. Department of State’s helpful resources for international travel.

What’s Your Next Horseback Riding Destination?

Now that you’ve read your way around the world, listen quietly. With all these options, what’s calling to your adventurous soul?

Maybe it’s finding the immense quiet of an untouched land; being surrounded by indescribable natural beauty; or perhaps improving your horsemanship or getting away with your friends and family for a relaxed horse-focused holiday.

Whether you choose a single-day ride or a multi-day (or week) adventure, let this list and related ideas get your travel creativity flowing.

Here’s to exploring. To life. To seeing the world the best way: between two pointed ears and with the song of the saddle as your soundtrack.

Your adventure is waiting.

This article about the top 10 international horseback riding destinations appeared in the January/February 2024 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

The post Top 10 International Horseback Riding Destinations appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

Lipizzaners are a protected breed in Hungary. They were first established by the Austro-Hungarian monarchy four centuries ago by crossing imported Spanish and Italian stallions with local mares. While the breed today is often associated with the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, few people realize that there were once two Royal Spanish Riding Schools: one in Austria and the other in Hungary. Budapest’s Hungarian training facility operated on an equal footing with Vienna’s institute until 1945. Sadly, the school closed due to World War II.

On March 24, 1945, the Russian army waged a fierce battle against the capital, killing or imprisoning most of the Hungarian riders and grooms. Four of the school’s Lipizzaner stallions were stolen and used to pull heavy munitions into combat, never to be seen again, while another 18 stallions were shot and eaten.

There was one positive result from this horrific episode, however. The advance warning to Colonel Alois Podhajsky in Vienna helped him escape and save most of the Austrian Lipizzaners.

The Szilvásvárad Stud

During the Austro-Hungarian era, horse studs were established all over the empire to improve local breeding practices. Most of these studs closed due to military and social upheavals and agricultural motorization, but a few are still standing thanks to government support. One of the largest (with 300 horses) and most interesting is the Szilvásvárad stud.

The Hungarian government recently funded the complete restoration of the stud facilities, and the new, improved complex has several structures split into four separate zones. There is a central area in the village where horses are trained and competitions take place, a mare and foal stable, a stallion station, and summer pastures and stabling for juvenile stallions.

The restoration was the largest equestrian development project funded by Hungary in decades, costing over 21 million Euro to complete.

Facilities include a floodlit international arena, large permanent stables, two covered arenas, and a world-class cross-country course for marathon driving.

Trail Riding with Lipizzaners

The Bükk Mountains are an ideal trail riding destination, thanks to their well-maintained tracks and lack of fences.

The Bükk National Park contains more than 1,000 ancient caves, thermal springs, waterfalls, and lush beech forests. The area is home to fallow deer, wolves, and Eurasian lynxes.

From the saddle, you can visit churches and historical buildings that reflect the region’s history, and you will be entertained by Attila, the head rider, who is knowledgeable about the local area.

Along the marathon driving tracks used to host the 1984 World Driving Championships, there are frequent opportunities to canter or trot. During my stay, I rode Fátyol, a 12-year-old mare who handled the steep inclines, descents and twisting turns effortlessly.

The most adventurous riders can book an overnight adventure to Csipkéskút, a lodge near Hungary’s northern border with Slovakia, to visit the young stallions.

It’s here that future dressage and driving stars spend their first three years of life, enjoying the mineral-rich soils and hilly terrain of the Bükk Plateau, which contribute significantly to their mental and physical development.

Driving Lessons with Lipizzaners

If trail riding is not your thing, carriage driving lessons are a fantastic alternative or additional activity to add to your trip.

The Szilvásvárad drivers are renowned for their accomplishments all over the world, and if you have ever wanted to pick up the reins and try carriage driving, this is the place to give it a go. Spoiler alert: It’s harder than it looks.

For those who prefer not to ride or drive when on holiday, another way to experience the surroundings is to take a private carriage tour with a guide. During carriage tours, visitors can observe staff working with and training different horses and even watch Hungarian Hussar units practicing drills with their cavalry mounts.

Dressage, jumping and driving competitions are regularly held at the stud, and historians will appreciate the Lipizzaner Museum, which features artifacts, sculptures and saddlery pieces from the past, along with antique carriages.

Accommodation and meals can be booked as part of an all-inclusive package directly with the stud, taking the guesswork out of where to stay and what to do, all while helping contribute to the preservation of the Lipizzaners.

For more information on the stud, visit here.

Further Reading:
◆ Meet the Incredible Lipizzan Horse
◆ The Lipizzaner: A Royal Legacy

This article about riding horses at the Lipizzaner stud in Szilvásvárad, Hungary appeared in the October 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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Irish weather is fickle, and you can never go wrong with layers. High performance fabric and wool will keep you warm and dry, and a lightweight, breathable raincoat is a must.

To save space in my already heavy suitcase, I didn’t bring a helmet. It worked out fine, but if you really want to protect your head, it might be worth leaving something else home.

A pair of breeches in technical fabric and a couple of sun shirts were my smartest packing move. They dried quickly and were good for several rides

I opted for paddock boots and half chaps instead of tall boots; they take up less room in a suitcase and paddock boots paired with jeans look smart for an outing like the races or even dinner out.

Bring along light sweater. In addition to being warm, it looks nice and can be dressed up or down, paired with the aforementioned jeans and paddock boots.

I took a nice dress and sandals for dinner at the castle. This was the only time I got really dressed up, and I’m glad I did, because photos with the castle just looked so much better with a classy outfit.

The pool at the West Woods hotel is a proper lap pool, and you’ll need a swim cap (required) and goggles.

After long hours in the saddle, George developed a couple of painful rubs on his calves. Luckily I’d packed a couple of Telfa dressings for such occasions and that got him back in the saddle and pain-free.

Advil (enough said).

Finally, don’t overpack. If you’re cold, buy touristy sweatshirt or a nice hand-knit wool sweater as a souvenir. There are lots of shops selling souvenirs and handmade traditional goods, so leave a little extra space in your suitcase.

The post Amber’s Packing Tips for an Irish Riding Holiday appeared first on Horse Illustrated Magazine.

The Unicorn Trails Coast to Coast ride takes you into the heart of the Italian island of Sicily, from the northern town of Cefalù to the ancient ruins of Agrigento in the south. On our excursion, we begin by meeting our guide Luciano and his wrangler Paola in Cefalù, where they take us on a walking tour of the quaint village perched on an oceanside cliff.

We dip our toes into the water of the medieval wash house, tour the Duomo di Cefalù (Cefalù Cathedral), peruse the artisan shops, and cool down with a gelato cone.

Next, we drive what seems uphill the whole way to Luogo Marchese, where Luciano’s 26 horses reside. A multiple-course meal is followed by a quick swim in the pool before retiring for the night.

Day One

The valley below the 80-hectare (almost 200-acre) ranch illuminates with the rising sun. Luciano’s small stable, nestled on the side of a mountain, boasts an ocean view. The herd is primarily Sicilian horses, once a mix of African and Asian breeds, now more refined with Andalusian and Thoroughbred bloodlines.

Luciano chooses Aron, a mid-sized Sicilian gelding for me, and a tall, long-legged Andalusian mix named Romeo for my travel mate, Anne.

As we descend into the countryside, the blue sea gradually disappears behind us. Apricots and figs are easily picked from trees that border the olive and grape farms. Sheep and cattle bells rhythmically chime from pastures as we climb to a large stone water basin where the horses drink.

A forest of 80-year-old cork trees leads us to the village of Castelbuono, where Luciano’s assistant, Gimmy, has our picnic lunch waiting. A two-hour break allows the hottest part of the day to pass before we continue through the village, where a lively soccer game is taking place.

At Casale Villa Rainò, a family-run 1830s restored stone villa near the town of Gangi, we enjoy a multi-course meal and a swim in the pool under the stars.

Day Two

We awake to spectacular panoramic views of Mount Etna and the Madonie Mountains from our balcony.

As we ride toward the town of Gangi, hailed as the most beautiful village in Italy, we pass family gardens of tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and squash, while snacking on ripe almonds, blackberries and crab apples hanging from reachable branches.

A gray mare gallops towards us for a visit. Luciano quickly dismounts to catch the horse for her 70-year-old owner, who is walking toward us with two canes.

“He still rides the mare on his small cow farm,” Luciano tells us.

Large trees at an ancient stone monastery overlooking Gangi provide shade for our picnic lunch. Grain for the horses is supplied in sacks that hang over their heads, like muzzles.

The route includes a brief ride on a busy road, but the horses remain calm as tour buses, trucks and tractors pass. A massive highway bridge towers above us as we follow the Imera River Valley to a dirt road where we enjoy a wonderfully long canter through a forest of eucalyptus trees.

Arriving at Feudo Tudia Villa, a formerly abandoned, now-restored farmhouse in the sparsely populated village of Resuttano, we dismount and leave our horses in Gimmy’s care. He joins us later for a home cooked, multi-course meal.

Day Three

As we leave the village of Resuttanno the next day, a small lake in a valley spotted with olive trees looks like an Italian painting as we clip clop over stone Roman roads and bridges.

We picnic and nap in the shade of the Marianopoli train station before heading out in the afternoon. A colorful sunset leads us to Mappa, a delightful villa in Mussomeli, where I join others for a glass of wine overlooking the pool and valley below.

We’re the only ones in the villa, making us feel like the royalty that once stayed here. Fall is the down time for tourism on the island, and Luciano tells me that he created his progressive rides “to keep the horses busy in the off season and help out the family-owned villas in the rural areas.”

Day Four

The fields are brown and dry due to a recent drought, and crossing a large, mud-cracked field feels like riding on the moon.

The ancient city of Sutera at the base of Monte San Paolino—a giant monolithic rock—comes into view. An elevator to the monastery was once built to attract tourists to the area, but unfortunately never opened. It’s a hot day, and as we lunch just outside the village, Luciano sprays us with small water pistols.

The Monte Conca nature reserve provides shady forests and picturesque river crossings before we arrive at the lovely family-run, 8-hectare (20-acre) Villa Casale Leto.

The Leto family purchased the property in 1990, and after years of renovations and vine planting, opened to the public in 2008. We taste their Nero D’Avola and Chardonnay wines with a delicious home-cooked meal.

Day Five

The sunrise reflects on the pool, and we enjoy a morning swim before breakfast.

There are threats of rain on our second-to-last day in the saddle, but it holds out, allowing for lovely long canters on dirt roads. All nine of us are extremely happy with our mounts, who have carried us approximately 35 km (22 miles) each day.

Views of endless hills, harvested wheat fields, and valleys of olive and grape orchards take us to the Tower of Anjou, an ancient aristocratic mansion from the 13th century. We arrive early to our villa in Aragona, allowing time for a swim. The panoramic views of the countryside from our terrace are spectacular.

Day Six

Our last day brings us to the ancient city of Agrigento, founded in 581 B.C. by Greek colonists, as we clip clop through the narrow passageways on the cobblestone streets.

Residents stand in their doorways and lean out their windows to wave at us. We feel the breeze of the south coastal waters as we ride past the Valley of the Temples.

Arriving at Amici del Cavallo, a small farm that takes tourists on a ride to the ancient ruins, we dismount and are welcomed with a barbecue lunch.

The trailers soon arrive, and with heavy hearts, we say goodbye to our horses. The setting sun lights up the ancient ruins as we tour the ruins in the Valley of the Temples.

It was a trip like no other, and after an exquisite meal in a local seafood restaurant in Agrigento with Luciano and Paola, we say our goodbyes to each other, but know that we will ride together again.

We’re thankful for Luciano, Paola and Gimmy’s endless hospitality, the families who welcomed us into their villas, and the wonderful Sicilian horses who made this trip unforgettable.

This article about riding horseback through Sicily appeared in the June 2023 issue of Horse Illustrated magazine. Click here to subscribe!

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